cook's illustrated 081

7/22/2019 Cook's Illustrated 081

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NUM B R IGHT-ON JUL GUST

L U D

Foolproof GrilledHamburgers

You Can't Overcook Them

Cuban BBQ Pork

Make-Aheadicic Chicken

No More Rubbery Skin

Best Peach CrumblCrisp Toppig, Juicy Frit

How to Grill Shri

Illustrated Guideto Kitche Kives

Ratig BlendersBargain odel a Winner

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2/36

July Agst 00

2 Notes from Readerseers s qesion s n ses solio ns

4Qick TipsQi n esy wys o perfor eey ss frosorng onons o i ng e il l o of rese es

6 The Ultmate Picnc ChcenHow o yo gie ol ini ien gre fo wiofy si sin? wi es Bon's rin is esere is sen no sirre BY SARAH WILSON

8 An Easier Way to Grill ShrimpGril ing sip in ei r sells proes e elie es seson ings re eele wy th tle Col weel ier ener forfl gri ll e sip-wio e sells?BY REBECCA HAYS

I 0 Pizza Margerta at HomeAeni reipe s for is N epolin pi ll for nOOegree oen wo ys of proofing n ogexpers ns e wne rel Mgeri-ol essle BY ERIKA BRUCE

2 erfecting Cuba-StyePor RoastGr i irsi nfse por is nrl for e rgrill Unfonely so re e rn sin n infors e gril lrose 00 pons of por o ge iig BY SANDRA WU

I Rescuing Sauted Zucchinis serie sple oos p so n l n in esile Col we il i o? BY SEAN LAWER

6 Illustrated Guide to KivesDo yo rel ly nee 400 wort o foe Gern seel?Here's or gie o oosing (n sing) e esseniln ies-n wi on es on' e e BY SEAN AWLER

8 ow to Grill OnionsGrille onions slly oo p lene osie n rwinsie s ere eer wy? BY ELIZABETH GERMAIN

19 Better Pasta Saad with PestoA is es peso is fres geen n fl l of erl orCol i sy wy een wen e o n Aerinps sl? BY SAN RA WU

0 Wel-Doe Bugers Done Welese ys ny oos preer griling gerso eiwell n eyon B oes wellon e e oen oerone? BY MAHEW CARD

The Best Key Lie Barsr firs s rnsforing Key lie pie ino ooielef s wi i rs-n oo lie on orns e wne o rise e rBY DAWN YANAGIHARA

24 Improvig Peach CrumleSo opping n forless fill ing re e no fo issiple esser ow o yo e e rl e rsp ne pees l ly se lie well pees7BY MATTHEW CARD

26 Is here a New ing ofKtcup?e esre pein eels lle pH n greor Boswi on sisoeer o explin e srprisngresls of or ep se es BY EIGH ELANGER

8 Sizing Up Souped-UpBlendersHe fny feres (n e p ie gs) fin lly eeners n essenil ien ool? BY SCO KATHAN

30 Kitchen Noteses resls ying i ps n ie rele o soies psn presen i rely fro e es ienBY ERKA BRUCE

32 Equipmet Corereiews of new ies pes on ps ess n soresfor pros se i n is isseBY GARTH CNGINGSMITH

GRLLG PC e gille oer o re es on orfl exerior rs-een ore

so wen firs oe wi lene fro relly osen gon spies e inense

e plies ei r or y oxing o eep ose noes Aong e so ses es

sie for s e in sl see wi r i lly o for; e ore e ol

orner see; sr nise wi is isin se of spiy lioe; swee niseore fennelsee; n piqn sr see ile ny of e ele sweeer spies ii nis i n or

oer e e of e grill i nnon n l spie (wi ses of in non neg n loe)

re exepions eoing een ore oplex Fesly gron l pep per s plesn e

n rn o grille es wil e rie n gon iles s s no n ipole (enilly

no spies) fie ep Aso osie e spie rel re gron oee n oo o of

wi onrie weloe ie noes

COVR Wrns) lizabeth Brandon, CK COVR //y ps) John Bugoyne

For list renta informatio n contact: Specalists Marketng Seces Inc, 1200 Harbor Bvd, 9 Foor, Weehawken, NJ 07087; 201-865-5800

Editorial Oice: 17 Station St, Bookne, M 02445: 617-2321000 fa 67232-572 Subscripton nquiries, cal 800 526-8442stmaster: Send all new orde, subscrption inquiries. and changeof-address notices to Cook's Illustrated, Box 7446 Red Oak l 5159-0446

COOK'SI L ! I l T A t

w.coosillustratedcom

Founder and Editor Christopher Kimb

Editorial Director Jak Bishop

Depu Editor yon HetermanEditorial Manager, Boos Eizabeth Cardu

Test Kitchen Director Erin urrer

Senior dito, Boos uia Colin Davisori Gavin

Managing Editor Rebea HaysSenior Editor Keith Dresser

sociate Editors Eria Brue

Sean wer

Sandra Wu

Web Editor Undy SweenCopy Chief India Kopman

Test Coos Garth CingingsmDavid zmio

he TomeySah Wisn

sistant est Kitchen Director atthew Hensistant Editors, Boos Chares Kesey

Eizabeth Wy Em

ditorial sistant Eizabeth Bomzeksistant to the Publisher es Badin

Editoria Inte ereith Smith

Kitchen sisants aria Eena Dega

Nadia DomeqEna Gudie

Contributing Edito atthew CardEizabeth GermaiDawn Yanagiha

Cosutig Editos Shirey CrriherGuy Crosbyhn Dewar

asper White

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Fuilent Manager Carrie Hon

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Direct Mai Director Adam PerProducts Director Steven Browa

E-Commerce Mareting Manager Hugh Buhan

Maretng Copriter David Godbe

Customer Seice Manager aqueine Vaerio

Customer Seice Repesentatives uie GardnerJiian Nanniei

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Vice President Sales Demee Gambuos

Retai Saes Director asn eerCorpote Mareting Manager Emiy gan

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Prduction Dictor Guy Rhfeior roductio Manager essia QuiProject Manager Anne Fnis

Production sistats uren Petta pieeatthew rnik

Technoo & Oetions Director rn Shumanystems Administtor ddi ugh

eb roducer auren Rerd

Chief Financia Oicer Shan ChabotControer andy Shit

Sta Accountant aya Santosoe Manaer

Receptionist Henrietta uryPubici Debah Broide

PRITD I T U


3/36

know that I am still alive because I getworked up about opening day at Fenway,doble choolate chip mint ice cream, bourbon and branch water, the rst boil in sug

ing season, and the opportunity to stand in adegree trout stream i April. And I haven'trgotten the recipe or nutmeg doughnuts, theain om In the Garden," why I get up in theorning, or who butters my bread. I still enjoyht pancakes, eavy liing, cold weather, hotscuits, hard ran, so cheese, long days, shorteads, the rst snow, the last ba le, the b ig storm,e small gesture, and a swi ick in the pantshen I'm moving too slowly.I can still remember my age, my middle na me,

y phone number, and my kids' birthdays butdit that or the lie o me I can't rememer why we need Lemon ledge, automaticansmissions, oparts, the Osmond amily,ink tanks, Hot ockets, the Department ooeland Security, or saety instructions ornscreen, toothpaste, and shaving cream . I can

so remember seeing the price o gas at 2 centsgallon, paying a nickel or a cherry Coke ate soda ountain, riding in my ather's Nash,atching thur Godrey, and using the Wi nky

nk coloring kit to write on the screen o ourmall black-and-white set.I'm still not old enough to understand stringeory, anything about the Holy Ghost, toilet

owl cleane r, restaurant critics, the Shri ners, catatic converters, AC versus DC, o rganic chemistry,

mokeless tobacco, or the r eason why women area panic to check their voice mail aer only a

eekend away.Someday, when I am older, I hope I will bele to recognize the co nstellations, identi birdngs, tie a dozen sailor's nots, tell the dierce between a ketch and a sloop, master thet o making pu pastry, and remember thees o people I h ave known or years. I a lso

AIN'T DEAD YET

still hold out aint hope o beinginvited to the White House,being included in a top 0 list,ad having Reese Withersooncall to say se wants me to costarin her next movie.

jog three miles i less thaminutes, lose 0 pounds,purchasing relaxed-t jeansstart buying shorter be lts. also lose my taste or cupBoston cream pie , raspbars, lemon meringue pie, Cups, and anything cookduck at.

I am sti l l looking orwardto the uture . hat's wenI' l l nal ly nis my chi ldren'sboo , bu i ld my cab in , andcomplete the Dodge HEIkit, with its 3 0 0 pieces, electricmotor, and authentic HEsound cip . I wi l l a l so nish

risoer il l

I also know that I ain'tyet because old peopledierent rom me. heir hurt, they plan their trips u

organizin g my garage, wax my car, have a ser ious talk wit my son, clean my closet s, and ndtime to scout or wild turkey and deer beorethe start o te season. he uture will also be agood time to mae amends, pay my dues, andthink or mysel

In years to come, I also plan to ride horseback rom our arm to Canada, run the BostonMarathon, and take my Idian motorcycle crosscountry. I am still much too young, however, toconsder motor homes, Florida, retiremet communties, Arizona, Sansabelt pants, the idea o

sitting down to dinner beore sunset, San Diego,gol, ruises, le tters rom the and the prosand cons o burial versus cremation. I do hope,however, that i arta Reeves is stil l around shewill sig Dancing in the Street" at m y uneral.(I you get the chance, please mention this tomy kids.) I she dies rst, I promise to cook ather wake.

I know am still young because my wie tellsme daily to grow up, especially when I start planning the motorcycle trip. I am also condentthat I have sucient tim e let to recov er rom asteady diet o Slim ims, bacon, ried buttermilkchicken, Old-Fashioned cocktails, ad secondhand smoke. Someday, I know I will be able to

down stairs carelly (so as orget something on an upper oor), they about slipping on ice, they take every oporto visit a bathroom when traveling, and tesmall children burdensome. (O, well, mthat list does seem a bit amiliar.)

As urther proo o my youth, I still understand my parents, save or retiremebuy lie insurance. I don't like Frank Sinrememb er World War II , or argue about whFranklin Roosevelt was a socialist. I do, hownote that when I discuss where I was enedy was shot" with my peers, younge

ple dri away. They do the same thing whesubject is Watergate, Sam Cooke , FillmoreCaraby Street, The Ed Sulliva ShJ, WCronkite, or Meet the Beatle! hey just kow their history.

I am just old eough, however, to know tall the millions o kids my wie ad I couldhad, we had just the our we wanted. But I'yet wise enough to say the same thing abou( although it's true) . And I am still too youhave lear ned umility, the art o being gratea appreciation or the icredibl e miracle oWell, this all j ust takes time. Ad that's thething about being young. We think that whave so much o it le.

FOR R RR OR OR FRO: COOK 'S ED aaz Cook gzine (ISSN 08-81 ner 81 is plise ionAcoosillseco o cn oer oos n ssci pions si n p foror fee e newsleer Boson oon Pres e rnesip 1 Sion S Brooine A 044 opyor renew yor gzin e sscripion oi n e e si e n yoll e ccess o 1 yers of Cook 00 Boson oon ress ie rnersip erioicls posge pi Boson Mecipes coore ess ingre ien sin gs n ore n iionl i l ing oices USS #0148 MAE: Sen ress cnges o C

COOKBOOKSe sell ore n 40 coooos y e eio of Cook o orer i si or oosorecoosi llseco or cl l 800110 (or 1-4-11 fro osie e US

l lsre Box 44 e lA 11-044 For sscripion n gif sscrorers sscripion inqiries or cngeofress noices cll 800--844 in e U1-4-1 fro osie e US or wrie s Coo's l lsre Box 44 lA 11044

U L Y [ U G U S


4/36

F DBres

your supermarket coffee tasting story

November/ecember 2005) you blamedquakers" for giving some coffees bad avorould't you just remove the uakers beforeindig a batch of beans?

CAL CANG

BAA CY NWY PA

Quakers are underdeveloped coffee beans thatcidentally make it through the manufacturingocess Because tey are less dense tan healthy

offee beans, they roast up to a much lighter color,nd they can impart a spoiled, rancd taste to a potf coffee Some maufacturers pay a premium to

make sure quakers are sortedout before processing

OF E IER

hat about remov-ing tem yourse lf ?To see what effectthis would have, wespent half an oursiing through bagsof whole-bean coffee

d o bother sortig ot (from a brand that evi-bighted beas? denced a igh umber of

uakers i our 2005 testig),parating the lighter-colored uakers from thest The we brewe up two batches ofcoee oe

ith the quakers le i; te other, uaker-ee erstig one batch aganst the other, a few thngsere clear The quaker-free sample was by noeans perfect, but the quakery" coffee wasorse (described as more sour, astriget, andancd" ) Our opnon is that while it wo't hurtremove ay uakers you happe to see , spend

g alf a hour huched over a bag of coffeen't wort the effort Gettig rid of a few badans sn't enough to trasform a lw-qualiy bag

coffee into a high -quali ty brew

he Coor of Corn S udon' t use cor syrup very oen ad usaly haveny one e on a a any ven e an subtute ight corn syrup for dark (and vice versa)?

ON L

ASTN TXAS

erive from cornstarch , corn syrup is a thic kquid sweeteer that was rst bottled for home

e by e maker of tl1e ro brand (in 902)ro emains t1e larges proucer o corup Light cor syrup is a clear mixture ofrn syrup ad high-fructose cor syrup (adde

or greater sweetness) that has been caried to

MPL D S DR A WU

remove all color and impurities, giving it a sweet,mild avor (Vanilla is also aded) ark co

syrup is a mixtre of corn syrp ad reners'syrup (a type of molasses), to whic caramel coorad avor ave been aded to give it a deepbro color ad strog er avor

e tried eac type n ree ifferent recipes( oatmeal ace cookies, hot dge sauce, ad pecanpie ) to de termine whether t1e two varieties couldbe used intercageably Tasters detected fewavor differences in the samples Tose madewit1 light corn syrup were ligter and chewierthan t1e darker crispier cookies mae with darkcor syrup, but tasters found both acceptabeColorwise, both samples of tl1e ot dge sauceand t1e pecan pie looked te same In the hotdge sauce, t e dark corn syrup yielded a richerchocolate avor and a slightly looser texture, butte differeces were far from eart-shatterig te peca pie, several tasters foud tt thedark corn syrup made for a runier texture anda richer, caramel avor tat masked some o f tepeca avor Our conclsio ? Yes, there are somesubtle avor ad textural dfferences, but if youcan't mae it to t1e grocery store, go ahead anduse whatever corn syrup you've got in t1e patry

Butche-Boc Caeecetly, bougt a used butcher-bloc work

table hat is t1e best method for cleang andproperly disinfectig a table like tis?ALAN SNYR

OA KLAN CAL

Butcher-block tables, which cton ot olyas a work space but as a cutting srface, muste cared for ad treate in a maner similar tocuttig boards To reduce the growth of bacteriao your butcher block, be sure to scrub it itl1hot, soapy water aer each use Te US epart met of Agriclture also recommends the periodic appl ication of a soluto of teaspoo bleachper quart of ater to sanitize te surface, whichsou ten e rnsed o wt co aer omaintain te appearance of te wood surface,some maufactrers sugge st applyig a food- safeoil periodically (once every few weeks) using aclea coth The mieral oi soaks into the bersof the woo, actig as a barrier to excess mo isture Te experts we consuted recomm en optg or mieral ol (make sure te containe islabeed ood-grade") raer an more-volateoils like vegetable oil and olive oil, wich ca turnrancd over time or ay-today use, we suggestreservig your butcher block for applications that

L U S R !

on' t involve sh, meat, or poultry Isteadseparate cutting board for these tasks, hic

make cleanig much easier while reducinrisk of crosscotamiatio

Coddled Es versus PochedWhat's the differece between coddled eggpoached eggs?

KO

PO NX

Both con a poachng refer to ing somethng gnty in water heated tobelow the boilig poit ith eggs, t1e dece comes down to the shell oache eggcooked without te shell, directly i themerig water (oen ith vinegar added tothe whtes set) Coddlig, o the other involves cookng te eggs stil protected by their shel l or indvidual covered cotaiers coddlig cups ghty coddled eggs (cofor about 45 secods, just to thicke the slightl y) are commo y used in Caesar saad ings to provide a more viscous texture, buare sometimes cooked a few miutes moa cosistency resemblig softboied eggwhites are slightly more set) a d eate as is

Fixin Frzen Coeshenever wrap ad freeze baked so clate cookies, te texture chages er thathe sugar crystalizes ad becomes cruchycookies are smooth he they are ot out ove, so why would freezng leovers affetexture?

RY S

GR NS BORO

e baked two dieret reci pes for chewyolate cookies, wich we the froze ad that room temperature before comparg with freshly baked cookies e, too, oticuwanted crunchiess i the previously fversions er oi some researc, e etat sugars becoe signicatly more crys( less liely to dissolve) as the temperature dn the freezer, te , the extrem ely low temture causes t1e sa g o come osolutio and recrystalize

But merely levg the cookes out ocountertop to t1aw id ot provide eougto reissolve te sugar crystals To get te coback into smooth, ch ewy shape, we trie reing" them as we oud most oter rozenbaed) cooies by pacg them i a 35 0- d


5/36

ven for four to ve miutes ic rowavig at ower for about 30 secods also worked, but thestribution of heat was l ess eve ad oy a fewokies could be refreshed at a time Once thefreshed cookies cooled to room temperature,ey were nearly as good as their fresh couterrts: chewy ad crystal-free

ow 'Premium Is Premium Butter?

ccasioally, prefer to use butters with a higherrcetage offat, but may bra ds don't provideat informatio Ca you hel p?

SE BSKNE

OYAL OA K, C.

There's bee plety of hype about the meritsf premium" butters (oen called Europeayle butters) , touted for their creamy texture adgh fat cotet compared with regular butter the past, whe the test kitche conductedn d taste tes ts of both styles , tasters foud ol ybtle differeces when the butters were sample d

ai (simply spread on toast), and those uacessappeared etirely whe they were used inookig Was our pael miss ig somet1ing?

t's whe we hered dow to calculate thercetages ourselves (divdig the amout of fatr servig by the table spoo serving size ) thatclearer picture bega to emerge nitially, weere puzzled to d, as you did, that most maucturers do't list fat percetage on the pack

gigespecially given that fat cotent is a keyllig poit Eve more surprisig , the fat cotetf every butter we foudom t1e ubiquitousand akes to the facest rech beurrefelletwee grams ad 2 grams per servig Just

-gram differece What's more, may of t1eocalled premium butters (icludig residet,errygold, u pak, ad perhaps the best kown,ugr) listed just grams of fat per servig ow

ould it be that these self-proclaimed premium"utters cotaied the same amout of fat as t1eeeric ( cheap) supermarket brads?

it turs out, it all boils down to US oodnd rug Admiistratio labelig laws, whichow maufacturers to disclose fat contet in

rams rouded to the nearest whole numberhat meas a butter with grams" of fat may

otai betwee 80 percet ad 82 percet fat2 percet fat is geerally cosidered te mi

mum fat cotet for a premium butter) Noonder ou r tasters otic ed hardly any differeceetwee cheap butt er a premium butter i our

S L I M D I F F E R N C ?Preiu butte y nt be tht muh re

inuent thn reur butte.

W I I

I recently bought this device at a rummage sale. t has a chan

mehansm on the botom that widens and ons depen

ng on how the handle on to is turned What is it used for?

ELVN OONE K

WOLF PONT ONT

Ths t has a ra han n

unscrwng ar tps.

Te tem yo u purchased s a Top-O screw-top oener manufaured y Edlund Co n 1932, his gadge is designed

make unscrewng stuo jar and bottle tops easer o adjust

screwtop opener to t diamete of inch to inches simtu the wooden handle (clocise to widen, counterclois

contct) until the o ends of the device w snugly around

top of the ja or ottle To unscrew te o, tu he handle oun

clocise untl the top is loosened n our tests, we were surr

to find that his method works even better than te usua tric

ping the sde of the jar on the counteto to loosen the sea

usng a damp kitchen towel to get a better gr Alhough we fo

sevel online aucion sites sellng ths tool as an antique tem

was also avalale from the Vermont Count Store fo $95Sources page 32, for ordeing formation

battery of blid taste teststhe difference comesdow to less than two percetage points

f you want a higherfat butter, choose oe wit12 grams of fat per serving rather t whichis guaranteed to be at e ast a few percetage poi tshigher i fat cotent a 2004 tastig, our tastig panel liked te rich lavor ad creamy textureof ad Lakes ltra Creamy" variety ( whichas 2 grams offat)

oiling PointsThe broiler i my oven has two settigs low ad

high 'm ever sure which settig to use whe areci pe call s for usig the broil erNCK ON ES

PLAELPA PA.

t he test kitchen, we always use the hig hestsetting when broilig ost recipes, icudigours, call for broilig oly when quick, ecietbrowing is desired, so it only make s sese to gowit1 the highest tempe rature ( Besides, it wouldbe a mistake for us to offer a recipe requirig asetting that many inoven broilers lack)

resumably, manufacturers came up with thelow bro iler setting as a way to account for t1e factthat some foods can tak extreme heat bett er t1aot1ers We prefer t1e simpler (and more lexible)meto o austi the istace of te ove racom t1e broiler's heatig elemetthe closer itis, te q uicker it cooks A few general guideline s:or roastig vegetables such as red peppers adasparagus, broilig about 4 ic hes from t1e h eating elemet is optimal or browig t1e topsof cheesy casseroles (like l asaga) , make sure tetop of t1e pa is at least 6 iches away or breadcrumb toppis, wic bur fairly easily, austthe ove rac to the ower-mie postio, to

U L Y [ U U

2 iches om te heatig elemet oultrsh will vary depedi g o the sze of the pthe l arger and thcker the pieces, the fart1et1ey should cook B ecause b roiled foods cai mere secods, start checkig for donelittle earlier tha the recipe idicates

Steaked Avocado've occasionally bought what thought rpe avocado ad t1e discovered it was strwith brown lies iside What causes this?

ACKE ON

OE A

We cotacted several avocado specialisof whom cocurred that the brow, discstreaks (which impart a upleasat tasttexture) are caused by the icreased coctio of a ezyme i certai parts of the his phenomeo teds to be most severead late i the seaso (which varies depeo the variety) as well as i fruit grow i areas Ufortuately, there is o reliablto determie which avocados will be devstreakig except to try to purchase varietieare at the peak of their harvestig seasont1e popular dark gree ass avocado, the is April to October; for uerte, Novembue or ierto, ecembe r to Apri of fruit tat fees so or has air pockets, howte former are either bruised or overripe,t1e latter have probably sustaied damageimproper hadlig

SEND US YOUR QUEIONS e wil proe meny on eyer ss cripio n for ech lee r we pri Sin. nme. ress. n yi me elep hone nmer from ees Cooks llsre Box 408 BrMA0 o o noesfromreers@cpresscom


6/36

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2.

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t sn gntly along on sd of t tomato

2 Usng t tn mars as guds, cut t tomato nto vn slcs

De-Salting NutsBarbara Hantman hal ph a

has cm up wt h a way tmak sat nuts uab n rcps

that ca r th unat va

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7/36

A Onon StoageLooking or convenient wy to store

onions, shllots, nd grlc n drk,

cool lce with len o ir circultion,

Viini Stutinger of Srng Texs,

brushed the dust o her littleused

bboo steer The bskets stck

esily nd llow just enough ir circultion to revent old

Cake Flp

Usng Salt toPevent FlaeUpsFat sputtring up rm a

brir pan can caus angrus ar ups T prvnt

ths ams ChristphrSt Wan His

Cai spras a gnrusamunt shr sat n t hbttm th pan

I . Cvr th bttm thbri r pan with aumin um

i an cu ps shr sat2. Pac th prat racn tp Th sat ayr cachsany gras an prvntsarups

ohn rl Bowe o f Brookyn, N ce u with this esy ethod f or turning ce out of n uncofortbly hot n

2.

I. Plce the cke n on to of le kitchen towel nd to with n inveted lte2. Gther ech coer of the towel nd hold the ends together on the botto o the lte Griing the towel tightly in one hnd,it the cke nd the lte together

3 . Plce your other hnd on the botto nd gently invert the cke n nd lte onto the counterto t o the n to rele sethe cke

Eas-Bake Setired of fubling through his cbinets

for bking ingredients, old Bines

o Khului, Hwii, kees lstic

coniner stocked with the stles:vnill extrct, bking owder bking

sod, cinnon nd so on When it's

tie to bke, he sily retrieves ll the

necess tes fro the continer in

one fell swoo

Stng behnd theScenes Whn in g mat with

butchr's twin it can bhar t avi cntam inating th ntir r withirty ingrs Insta cutting th stimat

amunt n aha timan ni ng up with

t much r t itt

Jm Mnaghan CapMay N his his solutionbin cs rs

. Pac th r twin insi a cabint in tcr bhin th hings2. Thra th twin ut abv th hi ng an c sth cabin t r. Pu th in t ti yur rastcutting ust th right amunt.

J U Y [ U G U S

2.

Magnetc RetevalWhen using cn oener, the lid so

ties dros into the cn vid Leo

of Atlnt, G, doesn't dir butt

knife to fish it out Insted, he rec

for hndy tool hnging right on th

rergetor decotive gnet

I. Use cn oener to reove th

2. Plce gnet over the cntcoes right out with no ess

Hng Ot to ySilicone bking ts cen u esil

it cn be hrd to get the cole

d rlyn ss of Burke, V, ttthe ts to clothes-hnger clis n

hngs the out to d ro cbi

door or the edge of nt shelf


8/36

kHow do you give cold pcnic chicken great flavor without abby, stick s?

As with James Bond's martinis, te secret is shaken, not strred .

Cold barbecued chcken s a pccclassc aybe because pcncsoffer so much more than food(fresh ar, a nce vew), most

ople dont care that ths recpe oenesnt make culnary sense Coveredth stcky sauce, the chcke s hard to wth a fork ad mposs bly messy eaten

th hands nd because the chcken hasen cooked and then chlled, the skn sbby and the meat s so dry t squeaks I

nted pcnc" chcken good enough tove at my dnng room tableor starters, great pcnc chcken oughthave most, tender meat I deced I asonted the robust spcy an slghtl y sweetvor of barbecue On the other hand, Idnt want to have to lght the grll forsh that would be gong straght to thedge The oven s a much easer optonr a make-ahead recpe Aer samplngveral medocre recpes from varousokbooks, I knew I ha my work cutt for me Tung ths sh nto someng a lot better than worseforthe wear

overs was gong to be a tall order

t and D ede rst advance I mae was as uck

S A A

WS

t was dramatc About 90 percen of tig th chic vight ith st sic ub vids ll th

recpes I found called for slatherng bts big ith imtt dic bb ski

asted, sknon chcken wth barbecuece and lettng t st overnght Gven that man problem was soggy skn, ths aproachmed counterntutve The few remanng rec

s went the dry-rub route relyng on redces to provde tradtonal barbecue avorhough most got the avor wrongand weregued by the same blan-meat problem as thetsauce versonsthe skn was notceab y essgy the next ay So dry rubs were n, stckyuces were outTryng some smpe combnat ons of chl powr, back pepper, paprka, cayene, ad a tteown sugar for that trademark barbecue sauceeetness, I ddled wth the proportons untl Is abe to replcate the avors of a good sauce

Go to w.cooksillustratedcom ey n code 0 for or Ceay

elk Colesaw recpe ecpe avaae ntl Janua 00

By rubbng the spce xture all ver the chcken,even unde r the sk, I aceve the robst barbecue avor I thought only barbeu sauce colddelver hen tasters sampled the chcken thenext day, t drew raves for avor, and there wereno st cky gers n sght nfortunate ly, the sknwas abby

eary, I neee to spen more tme trmmngthe fat before cookng the chcen he breastand especally the thghs possess some excess fatthat never qute renders properly, no matter howlong the chcken cooks Right out of the oven,that fat s m ldly annoyng; the coagulated messyou bte nto the next day s dsgustng

The oluton came n two parts rst, a smpe but lgent trmng of the chcken pecesyelded mproved results an took just a modcum of effort and tme Second, by slttng theskn wth a sharp knfe (an beng arefu ot

O O s I. S T R ri D6

to cu nto te esh), I provded eshatches for the meltng fat drg rng; wth a al blas of heat (I wethe way to 500 degrees) n the fewmnutes, the skn was ncely rendThe ext day I found not tough, skn but a thner, avorl coat onpece of chcken though ths sknstll less tan crsp, I as makng seheadway

It Need atUp untl ow I had been followngtest ktches standard procedureroastng chcken, whch ncudes br(soakng n a soluton of water and Brnng yelds better avor and momeat, but tl1e added mosture also mfor abby sk Omtg te brnt1s recpe wasnt gong to be easyperhaps I culd get the salt nto t1e wthout 1e water

Back n ur research lbrary, I across a technque used by Jud odchef of San ranscos Zun Caf

salts all o f her meat, vegetables, andsh for up to three days dependng osze of the product The salt s thougdraw mosture out of the prodct ntthen, aer a few hous, the reverse pens, and the salt and mosture onto the esh (see Satng Better

Brnng?" page 7, for detals) The test kthas sed ths technque sccesslly wth sreces for beef, a meat tha t we never brne , ha never thought to try t wth chcke

Curous, I salted the chcken peces, bcarel not to under- or overseason, and

place t hem n a covered dsh n the refrgeovernght he next mon I ae my san roaste the chcken asters wated patas I allowed the chcken to cool to room perature (aer all, t1s dsh wasnt gong tserve hot) It was worth the wat he chwas well seasoed throughout ad the meatmost Best of all, the skn was avorl, deland entel y no abby The salt ng had woexactly as I hope, both seasonng the meakeepng t most, een durng hghheat roast

th the chcn where I wanted t to worked on streamnng the recpe I comb


9/36

e spice rub with the salt and applied it at thee time, saving a step I also placed te ci ckeneces directly on te rack they'd be ooked on soey would be oven-ready te next orning Te

nal surprise, a completely unexpected bonus,as tat aer an overnight stay in t e fridge soef te spice avor had penetrated the meat alongit te salt Not only ad I come up wit a greatcipe for picnic chicken, but I ad stubled

ross a fascinating alternative to brining, oneat could poduce oist meat tat was also

eeply avored by e ans of a spice rub

S P I C E - R U B B E D P C N I C C H C K E N

ERVE 8

you plan to serve t1e chicken later on t1e s ameay tat you cook it, refrigerate it imediatelyer it has cooled, ten let it come back to room perature before serving On te breast piece s,e use toothpicks to secure the skin, whic otwise srinks considerably in the oven, leaving

e eat exposed and prone to drying out Weink the extra effort is justied, but you can omitis step Tis recip e halve s easily

5 pounds bone- n, skn-on chcken parts

(breasts, thghs, drumstcks, or a mx wth

breasts cut nto 3 peces or halved f small ) ,

trmm ed of excess fat and sk n

tablespoons kosher salt3 tablespo ons brown sugar

tablespoons ch l powder tablesp oons sweet paprka teaspoons ground black pepper

'h teaspoon cayenne

Following illustrations above, use sharpnife to make 2 or 3 short slases in skin ofac piece of chicken, taking care not to cutto eat Combine salt, sugar, and spices in

all bowl and mix torougly Coat chickeneces with spices, gently lifting skin to distribte spice ub underneath but leaving it attaced

lting Ch ik 0

ltng s an eectve method for seasonng c hckenroughout and keepng t mo st ere are some tps for

ong t rght

Pn hed. Ch cken salted for ess than sx ho urs

ooked up dry (N ot eno ugh tm e for the salt to traveto the chcken. But beyond hours the added saltegan to break down the nteror muscle fbers and t heeat cooked u p mu shy

et unde the skin . altng works best when the saltappled d rectly to the m eat the sk n acts as a barrer.Dn' t vest_ We had the best results when we

oated the chcken wth sl ghtly more salt than we no ra y would use to season t (After al l most of the saltnds up n the chcken Oufou: about I / teapoons kosher salt per I pound bonen ch cken

G E T T N G C C K E N N T M A KE AH E A D H A E

When ch cken s eaten at room tempeture or cooler a fowl's usual flaws become magned. or ths recpefoun d that a mod cum of ext prep wor ept the flavor texture a nd ap pernce from sufferng.

SCORE RUB C OUT P DOW

corng the sn (but not Applyng a sal spce rub Ardng the rubbed parts ec urn g the sn wthe meat) provded out both on the skn an d on a ck n the refrgetor toothp c s u st beles for meltn g fat yel d beneath t ensu red that overnght gave the flavors roastng kept the ng more ful ly rendered nether exteror nor nte t me to penetrte wh le from shrnkng up ntopaperthn sn r or came out b land

to ch icken ransfer cicken skin side u p to wirerack set over ried baking sheet, lightly tentwith foil, and refigerate 6 to 2 4 hours

2 . S ecure skin of each breast piece with 2 or 3toothpicks placed near edges of skin3 Adjust oven rack to middle psition; heat

oven to 425 degrees oast chicken until thickest part of smallest piece registers 40 degreeson instant-read theroeter, 5 to 20 minutesIncrease oven temperature to 500 degrees and

Salting: Better thn Bri ng?

aso dng out the sn. unattractve bundle

continue roasting until chicken is brownecrisp and tickest parts of breast pieces re60 degrees, 5 to 8 minutes longer, rem

pieces from oven and transferring to cleanrack as they nish cooking Continue tothighs and/or drumsticks, if using, until tpart of meat registers 70 to 75 degrees,5 minutes longer eove from oven; trchicken to rack and let cool completely brefrigerating or serving

In he test ktchen we' re strong advocates of brn ngsoak g meat n a sol uton of salt and water before cookhe meat absorbs water as wel l as salt wth th e latter hel p ng the meat retan the mo sture as t coo. Wth

p ce Rubbed cn c Ch cken however brn ng made he skn so o sove ths probl em we turned to saltng

chcken overnght whch helped the meat retan mosture as t cookedand d dn 't ha the skn

Chcken natural ly contans some sal and lots ofwatr whch coexst n a happy balance In coang the chcwth salt we threw o that balance. o restore order or equlbrum water n the meat moved to the sur

where t dssolved the salt.But woud n' t drawng all that water out of the ch cken make the stuaton worse causng the meat to

ou? I t certany dd u nt l we gured out the tm ng When we tred cookng chcken that had been salted

three hou rs the chcken cooked up dr er than f we hadn t salted t (he uces that had made t to the exte

smp ly evaporated n he oven ) But when we cooked the ch cken ater sx hou rs t he sto changed entrey

that pont the exteror salt had pu lle d so mu ch water to the su race that the balance of the salt concenta

had cha nged o restore equ l bru m th e water sm ply changed d rectons flowng back nto the meat But

tmeand here's the keythe dssolved salt went along for the rde Essentally we had "brned the chcusn g ts own u ces n stead of a bu cket of water

Once we successfu ly tapped nto ths means of del verng salt to the nteror we wonde red f t was possb

del ver other flavors the same way. t turns out t all comes down to whether the flavorng agent s watersol(l ke salt) or fatsolu ble Wth the rub we used for our pce Rubbed cnc C hcken the salt and brow su

whch dssolve eas ly n water flowed rght n as d d some of the dstngush ng avor compound s of the black pper cayenn e c h l powder and paprka But the spcn ess was waylad at the surace Capsacn the comp ound gves ch le pe ppers ther spcy heat s solubl e on ly n fat so t was unabe to on the caravan W

salt

water eat

3

J Y b A C S


10/36

A Wy o G lling sm in ei sels roecs e delicae fles, bu seasonings are peeled aw

a e able Coud we deliver ender, flavoru gilled s imp-wi ou e s ells?

It's no secret that shrip can turn fromoist an d juicy to rubbery and dr y i theblink of an eye a cosequence of their smallsze ad lack of fat. Ad d the upredictbiliy

cooking over a live re ad the challege isagnied. Grilling shrimp in their shells to shieldem from the coa ls' scorchig h eat works well

ut I'm always disappointed whe garlic herbsd other seasonings get stripped off at the table

ong with the shells only to land in a discarde. I wanted to experiece tender jucy boldly

asoned grilled shrip without havig to licky ngers.

e Ou tstarted by preparing the test kitchen's existg recipe for grilled shrip subsituting peeledrimp for shell-on (I'd investigate avoringser.) I followed every andate plupig therimp in a sltwater brine (which helps keep theoist) threadig he onto skewers brushingth oil then quicky grilling over moderate heat.

er a few minutes over the re the shrip wereugh and dehydratedno surprise given theirell-free stte. Also probleatic was the absence

attractive ( and flavorl) char marks.Suspecting that brin ing was causing the shripbecoe waterlogged and thus hindering

ramelization I lit new re ad grilled a batchplain unbrined saples. Sure enough these

rimp began to pick up the avor of the grilth a few fait yet proisin g arks.

aving discarded brinig I next built anpecially hot re by banking the coals o onee of the grill. I seasoned a batch of shrip witht and pepper ( plus a p inch of sugar to encourageraelization) set the on the grate and waited.nd waited. Even with a screaing-hot re the

ly way to get sucient charring was to leave thermp on the grill or our or ve inutes yetch passing minute brought e c loser to shripk and farther o a decent dinner.Shrimp cook so quickly because of their smalle. Would jubo shrip afford me a few extranutes? Thirty-seven dollars later I had yswer. roducing a charred exterior and a ten-

Go to wcooksil lustrated.com Key n coe 766 for or ecipe for

Gll ed S mp Sewes wt FesTomato Sae wt Feta and Oves

ecipe ille ni n 27

? BY R E C C A ! l A Y S

soon as each shr mp develop s an aracve char goes nto the pan of sm merng sauce o fn sh cookng

at a much genter pader interior on these hey specimens was a sna pbut with a cost of ore than $2 5 per pound andspotty availabilit there had t o be a bet ter way.

Grublings to y colleagues about thisdilea were met rst with epathy and thenan ide . What if I crammed several noral-sizedshrip very tightly together on a skewer creatinga faux j umbo" shrip? Sure enough t1is hoeade giat shrimp cooked at a slightly slowerpace givig e t1e extra mintes of grillig tiethe shrimp needed or charring.

a by eWit a decent grilling method at hnd I couldnally start investigating avorings. Thus far I'dbeen coatig t1e shrip in oil but I wonderedf yogurt ayonnaise coconut milk or butteroffered any advantages. Coconut il k was prosig but too distincive so I stuck with relativelyneutral olive oil. I tried to add personalit tohe oil wh groun spices b hs was a mistae. During a moment of inattention are-uptorched t1e sice paste ing i bitter. Mincedgarlic? Scorced. Fresh herbs? Scorched again.

S I U S R A T

Scouring our li brary shelves I reviewedgrilled seafood recipe I could nd. I evenhappened upon a few recipes i which shwas given a itial sear over a hot retrasferred to a sauc e waiting on the coo leof 1e grill. Itriued I grilled fe shrimslid the into sauce that siered in a dable aluinu pan. These shrip were overdoe but having soake p te avsauce were good enough for two co-wowho po ished off an entre batch grill-side.

A few tries later I started trasferrinshrp to t1e sauce befre they ere lly coThis wy I could concentrate on gettingarks then switch to a ore forgiving coe1od ( gentle simering in th e sauce) unshrip were done . I nally had an infaliblipe that delivered everything I wanted in gshrmp: tender esh attrctive charring toavorand o shell s.

C A RC O A L G R I L E D S R I M P S K E W E

SERVES 4 AS A MAN COURSE, 6 AS AN APPETZE

The shrimp nd sauce (recipes follo) cooking together on the grill so preparsauce ingredients hile t1e coals are heatint all of the shrip o the cook ing grate atyou'll eed three 4-inch etal skewers. wit grilled bred.

1 pounds extra- large (2 /25 shr mp peele

devened , ta ls et on

23 tablespoons ol ive o l or brush ng sewers

able sat and gron d blac pepp er

1/ teaspoon sgar

recpe picy emo n- arlc auce or harm

auce (recpes olow

emon wedges or serng

at shrip dry wit paper towels. Tshrip onto 3 skewers alterating directiheads and tails (see llustration page 9) bo1 sides of shrip with oil and season lwith sat and pepper. Sprinkle one side oskeer evenly wit1 sugar.

2 . Light l arge c hiney strter ed withcoal ( 6 qarts or about 00 brquette s) and to bur until coals are ly ignited and pacovered wth thin layer of ash about 20 minEpty coals into grill; build oded two


11/36

E C H I Q U E CROWE_NG_S H I M P O NT S K EWE

ss te skewer tro te center of eac srmp

yo add srmp to te skewer aternate tedrectons of te eads and tals for a compact

arranement of abot 2 sr mp Te srmp sold

be crowded and toc n eac oter.

re by arranging cals t coer nehaf f grill,aving ther half emty. Position cokng gratver cals, coer gri , and heat uni hot, abut

inutes; scrae grate clean ith gril brus.

3 et disosabe aluminum an with saucengredies on ht side of gri l l and cook sirected; transfer an to cool er side of grill .ace srim skewrs, sugared sids don, ono side of grate; use tongs t ush shrimoether n skeer if they hae serate. Grilri, uncred, uni ligty hrrd, 4 to

intes. Using tongs, i and ri unil secone is ink and sliht translcent, t 2 mints ngr

4 sin thldr r oven mitt, carely iach skr m gri us tongs to slid shrim skers into an wit sauc. ss shr i an

ac t cbine and trsr an to hot sie ofri; cook, strrng, unti hri ar aue and

The Right Setp

t rlled srmp tmn can be trc We soved te

obem by settn p two cookn ones O n te ot sde e sear te rmp over d eat ntl almost done On

e cooer sde we keep a dsposabe pan of smmernce were te srmp ns cookn at a enter pace

rowd n the s rm p on te skewers bot s a few extra

n tes on te ot sde vn te srmp better carrn

!y cooke, but 30 scnds. Remov frmgril add rmining sac igreits, an tssto cine. rnsfer t servig latter and srveimediately with e wdges.

A S R i l l E D S H R I M P S K E W E R S

llow ste f recie r CharcalriledShri Skewers. u all buers gas grill tohigh, cover, and heat unti vry ht, abut

minuts. Scrae rate clean with gril brsh androceed ith ste 3 f rci, sttin sauce asideff heat once hot a1d griling s hrim with liddwn, checking ccasinaly t ak sur theyreot uing (timing may b a ints lngrthan in chrcoal grill reie).

S P I C Y l E M O N A R l iC S AU C E

ME ENOG O CE P O ND M P- 4 tablepo on unaled butter cut into 4 piece4 tablepoon juice from 2 lemo n

' teapoon red pe per flae3 med ium garlic clove m inced or preed

through garlic pre (about tablepoon teapoon table alt

ipoable alumi num pan or pie plate

cup mi nced freh parley leave

ombine uttr, lmn juice, er akes, arlic, a salt in an. Cok ver t side of grill,stirrig occasioa y, unti butter ets, about z inutes; trnsr t coer side f gril a nroced t gril shrim, adin arsly just bforesrving.

C H A R M O U l A S A U C E

ME EOG O CE P O ND M P

hroua is trditial Morccan sice bend.

4 tableo on extravigin olive oil mal l red bel l peppe emmed eeded and

diced very mal l (about cup mal l red onion mi ned (about cup

eapoon papri a

teapoon ground cumin teapoon cayenne3 med ium garlic clove mi nced or preed through

garlic pre (about ablepoon

' teapoon table alt

ipoable alumi num pan or pie plate cup m ince d feh cilantro leave2 ableo on u ie from lon

Combine i, b r, nion, arika, cumin,cayen, a ic , an sa lt in an. Ck ver htside f ri, stirrn ocasionly, n ti vegetabssftn, abt minuts (2 or 3 minuts onerif usin s gril) trnsr to cor sie of rid ce t ri srim, addi cinr andn uic st r servig.

L L L 2 6

E Q U P M E T T E S T I N G

F t Skewe s Skewe theCompetitionWen I rt ot te assnmen to condceq pment test on skewers I red my ed tor

nally ost t. ow mc "perormance dercol d tere rea ly be beeen one p on ted stckanoter? Once I d s eyed te eld and tred

te desns wt or recpes for Grlled rmp

Gr led Onons (pae 8) my atttde cane

realy s poss ble to b y bad skewer.rst of al foret wat most rlln books

If yore cookn over very eat bam

skewers wl l bn and break apartno matter

lon yo soak tem n water beforeand Webetter ck wt meta skewers. Tey may more bt teyre resabe and tey can an dle

eartest kebabs wtot ben dn or breakn

Not a l metal skewers are created eqa l

ever We ad a to tme lppn food on ro

skewerste skewer tself trned j st ne bt

food stayed n pace lat skewers proved m

more effectve oble-proned skewers t

te food bt some were flmsy and most

tenden cy to twst ot of te r paralle l conton Oter models took te strdy concept

far wt b skewers tat severed sr mp n Or co ce: Any fat t n metal skewer w

We patclar y l ke Norpros 2- nc ta

tee kewers (sx skewers for $ I wc are3/1 nc tck Gart C n nsmt

FlAT AVORITE

Wt at meta te food trns al on wt te

skewer -B A M B O O - Z L E D

Even wt a soak, bam boo skewers brn and t

ron d sape sp ns w le food remans nmove

D O U B l E T RO U B L E

Tese do b le p rons were too lm sy to force

tro b l tems

T H C K H E A D E D

Bl skewes damaed de lcate fare

M O V N G V O L A T O N S

kewers wt sl de rs o r movn an dles were

ro on food


12/36

zz Magita t Auenc ecies is Nealan zza call an OOdegee ven, w das n, and a dugh exer's hands We waned real Margheriahld he hassle

rian izza pars, is eo ng s a t r ig n sp r .S a r wi a sa , iping wih gobs f srthy

s, an oa wih msroms, ois,ons proni, ineapp, sasag an

or, e thi, wy rs tas on a srng rin mos itra sns. Naian pzzrias, y nras, t

st s ing. in, r is, an satringy, s rsti, woo r izzas sor a saring f iosy sn to

ngs tat sr as omemns rst

tr an as t ain nt. Th mostmos Napitan pizza is t arghrita,nsistng a ispy rs garnis witig r tan a t in vi f tomato

, ram ozzarea, a fres asi.

sa. o I o as ths stsn sramind ross? Ar severa atms, I fn hat was a saog straig ot f h fo roehis man t bas o ogh o risrax a t sam time. A hahy aminstan yeas t t rising tim o on

Stick wit M e ro ing i rs a niforpizza, whi strting ahs a thin srrn y ier gs. aaratrisi of ahni Naita

hi exps migt n tis mho I was having roe wih t w, sogh. I ae of o h atr nog am anagea. Th rsa rs ta was mor ray han Bas I n't han a ogh r war, I w hav t n anoway to mimi its ft.

B bringing t is s im sy of izza is anyting t si . s atni

is pn on te stratspri pras of a omeria vn, an rs

a o s ten to ir h saeay rst. Th f at g h rst igtir too ti an ffr (ming sssions, iossiboane ougs ).

wan to rrat this Naoitan asso aing t a r.

o acheve pa arghertas dsn ctvely lght th n crust wthou ta wood-fred oven we sp ked the dough wth cake flour

I hgt tat aig oi i gh t sir txtrris n th otnr n t insit insta th am ou oo so an foaia. yogt was t aan n t ra orn sig in avor of prs, hi

ating te loc k s is is iz za's fnan, so ga

t og. star wih the most asi r: ra or, atr, yas, an sa. Frm ays, isr ta wt ogwith a igr ntnat te st rst (an ntsaing aaes, bt ore n tat at .

ecrets tor Q ck Reipe

Eoto nned tomtoes

to yeld seedynoook tong.

,. P Use food oesso to

mx te doug to so tenknedng tme.

T rs pae I saed ie was in the mixin gof t og . A nt ripes a fr 0in ts of naing in a stanng mixr, b t ashis ssnia? T a a ra n in naig i , ri raing saning ixr ih af rssr. was sris a y tastrsn' tt ny irens bn gnade st its in a f rssr andg nad 0 t is onger in a ixr .

t ts tat iza is ore ab tndrnss n risness tn b sruue. e sownin g ain f a sanin g i r s

g s y an n siaes wi sei t. Hwer, wn o m s iza, aig is r y miig, anth fo rsr s st as aab as a san ingmixra m fastr.

Nxt p C r t rsing im? Tesies izza g tas a ast tw orso b in v, an any traina ri-ps a or a in of yast an an oi gt i se . r i se n, o g i s i d inbas, ese gan for a 5 ns, en

I I I

ower rotin ontn t an hrfor roa mor tnr og. Sr nog, h as imiaty asir on th ans anbaon e et . I was on th rig ra thogt e o ugh o se vn or nss. Bas ae o is th sos or m os n an, I ri aing iamons t og. n n, a irgy 1 ar a o t rts arr te ig, hin exte I as aer, ang was asy an .

ivn b home n I s usn g,ress ma pr sns. it is 800 d

f or por, a Neao a izzmmri oen a o a pizza gss th an fou m inu tsnot nog im foigrotin g g an ohe. In nras, my regar nra o its 500g axoo amst

Go o wcookssraed Key in cod e 767 for th results of

P Stone Tests This infomation wil be avaiable uJaua. 27


13/36

ns, asn -n ado o on an s o nd an nd (S a Po an 8 00 n" )

opping It Oh I ad an a sa an, s-nd s oaos, s n, sn, an un w no a as annd oaos w , n ss

n, d omaos ad s wn k sd n ood ss,fon a sl nk nfm a ofsac ann lsd omaos was ssnao ao a so s sa, sa, sasl, and alc ondd o a a

Bas cs ook a 0 mns own and cs, sc a n of mo ook Addn fs aa aao h akn a onl wa os s fs a and mk aAl s a nd now was snn ofasl, a d of o ol, and a das of sa san o and a af o sa o n s as

asona, sa fo a a as ca a wa fo Nap ls

P I Z Z A M A R G H R I TA

M A K E S TWO 1 2 1 N C H P I Z ZA S

s cp s a a son and a onon ons w od a l, sa, and o wl nd o c oacookn m a mn o wo Yo an sa scond do ound w l1 s aks, b don' add opns nl js fan Yo can do s n ao f o k ; a do ason a lo an s and w aswa oad w nonsk coon sa f snoaa packd n n, a s sd fo acn m on a

Dough

/ teaspoons instant yeastcup ( ounces ater room temperature

/ cups ( ounces un bleached all-purpose flourplu s more for dusti ng wor surface and pee l

cup 4 ou nces cae flor 'h teaspoons table salt

2 teaspoons sugar

Toig (2 -o unce can diced tomatoes

teaspoon sugarsmall garlic clove m inced or pressed through

garlic press (optional

/ cup chop ped fresh basl leavsable s alt

ounces fresh mozzarella (see noe above

cu into l -i nch chuns

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

Gettg the Dough Shape J st Rght

I v de dough mm

daely afer mxng and

shape no smooh balls

2. laen round no 8-nch dsk o el mnae large

ar pockes

FOR T H E CRUST : js n a ws s, s sn n a,an a n 50 s sn , ws as n w s n oss w a , ss, sa, an sa n cm, a 5sonds man n, sw a o ; onn ss no s san, sc a a s s wokow, s ( a mn

do s sk n ns a, a asns a-os and n ossn I apas an cm , add l asons wa a css n foms a ) d a a a nosmo, as (s oo a) Pacon d on o a s, sa ma as 3 ncs a; o oos w ascwa coa w nsk ookn sa an s n o n ol, ao

FOR T TOPPING: n an w odoss, oss aos n s, woo sc ss ans ons san s o ow ad a aas 30 ns, sn aso as

3 .reh oue edgeswh aeed fngers whl e

gvng qua er urns

f dough evesos srech edbacks of hands

s a n da as, a, a ( an as , a asn

3 TO SAE OOK THE IZZA as a s, s a w a as as w s Ps a n 8 ( ) s a a, ges c, \ a an s s

4 ) a ; n s ff a ss , ad a on (a d saa, n aS o s ad a n s w, ao s w , os o, an w af o cs s, sac a sn and onn n s s js m, 4 5 nas n a; sn ann s, an , ansa Sc n s a a s, , ad snd a

- eat Pa tho t a 800 -D eee Ove aly p s seous bus ness Sc gud el es re placed on he

desgnaon of ue Neapol an pa ad o e of he euemens s a

ood ed oven ech g empeu es upd of 00 d egees

o see ha eec such exeme em peraues ould h ve on my ec

pe borrowed a local peras comm ecl pa oven bke d my pd compred h he pers ( mde h a do ugh ha nclude s

hgh pn flour) ou mnues le expeced o ulrcrp pas

o eme e bu m ne as oo sof al mos cakey he cus made hhghpoe our s lgh ede n d crsp Back he es kche

made my ecpe d he pes recpe (h he h ghproen ou)hs me he professonl dough fl ed yeld g a ough l ehe crus.Why dd my ecpe ok ell n a 0degree es kche ove bu

ur rece ddn' wor n n

degree oven bu s de or conenonl home oen

no n a n 8deree commercal oven And hy dd n he professonal cpe wor n o ur oven? Aer somscchng ealed ha me (no us emperaue) has a bg eec on he exue of he crus n h e super-hfessonal oven my dough cooked so quckly ha d dn have enough me o dry ou and becom e crsph ghflou r was essenal Back he es kchen he everse s appen ng he hgh- poen dough spe n so muchhe oven ha becme ough a ccke he ede rng l oproen cake flour n my dough ke he nhe crus so whle he rolonged bkn e crsped he exeror Apparnly you do n need an 8- degreo make gre pa Mahe rayou us ne ed he g dough fo he obE B

J ' \ ' 2 0 0 6


14/36

efect Cuban-Style Pork RostGarcky, ctrusnfused pork s a natura or te bakyard rll. Unortunately, so ar drymeat, bunt skn, and fant avos. We rl roasted 200 pounds o pork to et t rt

Well knw f it umand ciga uba i alme t ante leeknwn ecialty f te

bbean: cituy galicky ated meat .f te bet eamle i lecho aado

at k ainated in a avful mif ctu galic live il and ice.

diti call f a wle ig cked nt ve a wd e but many mode

in ue a uckling ig e am k ulde intead. F cnvenence te ject i metime bugt

and ated in te ven .

r:

with lv infuin late. Fist I antedgue ut t et way t cook te

Letting the k sit vegt inwking minade citu juice gaand live il oceede to ck it ndiect eat bankng te cal on eitide of te gi ll and lcing te abten. Hou lte te inti eaced y taget degee but gtin tee a tediu. o kee the m ting to dk ad t t evey 30 minut tt seo it ti e sesin. Ad tat

te numb f time ad t eelee te ccal fom dying out nd gill li lyin th gund almuc a it a cvein the ok.

y gal wa t eceate ti blded di with it cacklingci kinde meat and bacing gal ic-c itu

e. I anted a ecie tat culd bee utd (geat f lage ummeie) a well a a vaiatin tat could

ade ind (f cit dwelle ade n). Ae teting alf a dzen

e in vaiu ckbk I alized Iy k cut ut f me. ut kneeled ff cewy meat o d y eve tee culdt ave it and mainae tatd t at muc av wee cmmn

ble. i ecie i a ject: If teue and av aent gat wy bote?

Ul Cao aty l pu d po c fal l apat hd C uba pooat lcd to u cy o l

ee hd to e btte y. I t died t-lve bank all coals n sie f te gill d ckthe k ve the ide ithut te chi wa n iovment bt a fun too n. ht if sate ith ihe at the lt th e sdie ut? Unrtunatly a u qu f co d een usi t a c y qut) ut te i tatu fte il to a ccin 4

Awate ated on te gill in te venan-tyle at k a a tete ehee

ween that f a juicy iceable Ameica kt wic ook) efe cokd t abut 5ee) and ll aatwhenyo u tuc - it ulled (ced t almst 00 dee). bestentic cie I amld caled fo a inta

eatue of aund 90 degee at which te cllagen and t ad tly b

ad eneed ut nt ute t l- datin. A fo te cut we wth the nculde (en imly labeed k huld")neenive fatt bn-i cut that ce

a eneou an of n attached ey kin ae all a al lmak f ti d . ( eeking te efect Pk at" ight. )

o to wcoosi l lstatedco ey ode 765 or or estng of

Remoe Meat Thermometers. Avalabe t Jaa 27

h c u u vi t ut t t uc:fuse t w \t J ith i wt st) c sv u o th usi ict t cut c s csthn tss t tt j ucm- " suc c \ tt tt oss ou uty . ud

dee vin ok tt e ajlcd than u-td.

Dicuged I de th I thw th t ad cs o an o mthit. A a ttil ubntyl k oaly ck outds f cty t


15/36

th I s

Blan meat, nteo, avoless custtee common poblems wt g l l

oaste pok, eac o wc em ans ts own, cu stomze solu ton o te blan

s s, a na

nal, wana was nw sd ls a sa a, a bv n al lsj wasn' n adall

meat an nteo, we combne a ttonalbne salt, suga, an wate) wt a ctus manae.

o tcet up te lavo o te cust, we coate te

exteo wt a potent galc -ctus pate ust beoe

cookng

I

x -

I

) l skn sas a sn a d a sd n ll ( a s a)aans sl s n nsn as as (s nld as analna), n was a s ds a a

Keep ing a d on I t n n a n a a ass and l a, s sa n ll, n as ns lann s , a lsk ln al S , sanw a s n all k as l s a d w n ans as a 35 n, s nal a waan 30 s s la, aa 90 as w n l aa 'd sd j n n aa

M a n aal rnsns n aal lnns, lla t as al s lss nnl n a w n an, wnd d s rk s a a a as n as l w aln i aa sa wak a ns sn as d a sl as a l " (s n a4), w alw a la an a n ak M

an, ad ss N llsad ls n sssn

lates of the CarbbeHa s a l al anan k sl ( as) al wn w a af w as a d d s aanas n a n a, as l s n, n an assa s ( n js s

PE

nas rs a nl was w as a a ls w dass ans a l s ( s wl a, n a l aa w anan k js a a

w as) ass w aas, w aal nn n s n, andsw ss sas n s na l j an lad ssan j an a an an, w, ass l' l

As as, a ln

as a, sa, , a, , ll, an j, l a s w na a ( aall, n ns aj a ), w j n n a wss a t s an as' s as

All t e Rest nw a a s ( n ss ) n an a a wn n nsn a n ann wa annssn sns as (an, s, na la ) awas a a ,

an n was ls a aa a, n s a n a n san j sa a sa

s s a nn (sak n a sl sal an s sa) ana ls, was aa snn s san k n a ana answ was k s n's as a a n,la s wa a j,an a a n/ana sa l la ( s awa) n san

wn 8 n 4 s asla a a n n t n

M a s f a n na n, w al js s l a M n ka wa n n a s, aas 3 ns wa j ann d n a nsn a n w as a n As , an n n n

, T ( o ) [)

E Q U I P M E T T E S T I G

Cha coal Ch mn ey StateWe've long con se e a c mn ey tate to b

best way to lgt cacoa ape lke ove

coee mugs, tese metal contptons ae

nto o cam be, te lowe o wc ols

seet o cumple newspape that once t,

te cacoa n te uppe cambe tey, wbeen stuck by ow ma ny c mney tates

ae on te maketan ow eent tey ae

te Webe moel we use o we oune uc mneys to see wc on es woke best

A ew o te c mn eys wee no nstartes, t

to see capacty Wle ou Webe osenoug cacoa qua ts) to an le te eg l ng applcaton tat eque g eat,

moes el sgncanty les, at 4 quats

ne o a me um level e, but not ea l o

tng a eep, ak sea on a poteous e steakmoe , te even Rac en , a oom to ac

moate a wopp ng 7 qu ats o cacoal . wee concene, te moe capac, te byou can always l l te c m ney paray)

Oterwse, te esgn eences wee One moel was esgne wt a tap oo

metal gte sepaatng te two cambes

matcaly gve way as te c m ney s l te,

tng te coal n a p le ts a novel esgn, bu

eal o bu l ng two-level e Poung tcoals wee you want tem s muc eae

muc es angeoustan eaangng tem

tongs ate te al) A esgn eatue teste

appecate wa a econ anle oun on

Webe an te teven chl en ) , wc ma

ease-tocon to coal stbuto n In te en

no- l s Webe was aequate o mot g l l

I you bee mot equ es moe uel, te

Rac en 's exta u at o cacoal may be wte exta cas tl not en oug ? Buy two We

O U R AVO R T

e W Rapd FreCh ne Stater $ .99

s te gt ze an as a

elpul secon anle

' B G N N E R

e Iest o arbec ue

Ult ate Ch ne Starter

$9 .99 s pcy but ol s

eno ug coas o lage g

JUST A TR AP

e OCharcoal Starter $ 9 9

o s ony a ew coalswc all toug a tapoo upon tng

Gart Cl ngng


16/36

Q L L L TO BRE TE PORrotecting the pork roast with an a lu min um foil s hiel d, we kept it from getting

dark on the side c osest to the heat-no rotaton require.

i sa a in ni , in s i s (abot n on) l oas,sa ao ins aasso sa an sa n 6as od wa in sot a Si n ain oan ji Sm in in an a 8 os

T O A P P L Y T E A R L C - C T R U S P A S T E

Make two 1inc h folds on the long s ide of an 8i ch ength of foi to form a

orce edge Place the foil on the cen ter of the cooking grate, with the rei n

ed edge over the ho t s ide of the gri l l Posit on the roast, skin s i de u p, over

cool side of the gri l l so that it covers about a third of the foil Lift and be ndedges of the foi l t o shield the s ides of the roast, tucking i n th e edges

ross a, mn, oao, sa, an in oodosso ni aonssn o oas as,ab n son lss i man nnn, aan j, n, a oi

os, now lan inio os wr b as ois ain al s

o n now was a n sasojo sa, w o i mo oom ma w o

a wi man o sam inns n n an as, mojo b , s i o ao s I o a an, ai o an a si om an io, I nw m os a n wot : sa nal on s mojo ba

C U B A N - S TY L E R I L L - R O A ST E D P O R K

SE RVES 8 T I 0

in ook oas s o a o will

noial m n ma is as ass sn a sol b s a wat o a wi ojo Sa (iows) aiionl amamns in ans, i, an lantans

k ad B ie

bone-in kin- on pork pini houlder

to poundup ugar

up table alt

mediu m garli head, un peeled l ove eparated

and ruhed

up orange ju ie

lic- Citus Paste

mediu m garli love peeled and oarely

hopped about f uptablepoon ground umin

tablepoon dried oregano

tablepoon table alt

teapoon ground b lak pepper

tablepoon orange jui e

tablepoon ditil l ed white vinegar

tablepoon ol ive oi l

o n ss n moms so, w as, ab 20 snsm o om n an ns n o

nnin wa; a wi ws as a an in ss a n a

3 TO RLLROAS THE POK sinimn sa, s aa (at60 s ) an bn n ni n at i a in s, a 5mns s n ; mi w aanin oas o oona n n a osin oon o s , o i , an atnti , ab 5 mns; sa a lawi bs P a as w s n s on s an s i

on o oos ao an on i tma as 5 s, 3 s (as w n ial isina) s, a on 35s wi a n owmi siin

n i a as an o 5s, m a ns oas wia s mm an s o o asinan wi a as n n ni skin iswn an is an insan- mminsd in is o at iss 0s, 3 os ans as inboa an s o , s m

sin in on a i Sa n sa o , n aw o on in a s S a aans aininto - n s s o s sn, sa ss a ns an ss D zz MjoSa o o js b o sn

C U B A N S T Y L E R I L L - R O A S T E D P O R K

O N A A S R I L L

l Fow i n- S -oasP s

S ' S F

a i rs o , os i, a nil , ao 5 mins Sa lan wi il s n o all t imb ( a will main on in in ) a oas wit skn s on oo sil, sil wi oi (s otos, lt) o an w imar n o mimmim-hi ( ill tma sho b a35 s) oo nil skin is on s an insana momt in s is a o ma iss 0 s, a6 s, oain ma 80 s n moi sil aa o ooin i Fostin an siin insins m s

C U B A N S T Y L E O V E N R O A S T E D P O R K

Folow i o an St l -RoaPo to s t on o 35 w a in wmi oson

Pa ok wit sin si on on i s imm akin s o n oastin i ak , no, 3 hors Fi

sin si an onin o oo nil nsa mom ins no is ma iss 0 s, a 3 hs moil nin oas wi ol i skin ins oo a oow sin an sin insm s

M O J O S A U C EM A K E S I C U P

sa an m i ook is stin t a a aa o im ia in an aiit onin I il sa m to om ma

sin

4 mediu m garl i love mined or preed thro

g press (abou t 4 teapoons teapoon koher alt

up ol ive oi l teapoon grou nd uminf up diti l led white vinegarf up ju ie rom to 2 orangef teapoon dried oreganof teapoon ground blak pepper

min ai on n oa

sinkl wi os s sn at si n, da l an sal a and o a o n sma ia mois ni is on ino smo as

Ha oli oi n im saan omm a nil smin A ali aan min an oo, sin, ti aao 30 sns

3 mo an om a an wi sk in in nns. ans o o n ooom ma isk sa o o sin


17/36

Ru ud ZhThis sumrim sapl coos up soggy and blad in h s ll. Could w bai i ou

Gratig zucchi i s the best methd fr gettig theater ut c earig the ay fr maxim um favr

ee's a eason zccn sal esossed ono a o , and has no n o do wh e season onnedwh e nense, d ea o a e e,

e wees eeae n e arden (ao 95ecen wae) qck ees ecess mose,ean end conc enaed laos s ckon e soeo and o e a anl o sosesqash sew Whe ea s woks s mac , e ack o a soed ae meansee's no escae oe o e q d

e sece o saed zcchn , en, s oeac as mc wae as osse bere he sass e an e mos common mehod s osa n-sced zccn, le dan n a coane,n ess e dsks ween ae owes en en, e dsks ma sl e waed

eno o nh ownnSea eces ond ca d sedn eccn on a o aer, seezn e she ds na kcn owe, an cokn m n a o ske e ad news s: ese ecs al coked so, w an on seamed ao en ow c ohe ao-san wasae o eac om e ses, e med seseeed osn

scadn e see, wa coes made eseds noceal de, e es soonas ncroae cnes om

_ V sa l /ess ed as w : oss esheds w sa, an em n a coane,and wn m n a kcen owel waseasan ssed o d a sedded zccn nes e mn es ann, a ac o a ho e ed sced d sks

cankn e a and mnmzn sn, ad ende, owed zccn ess ha e mnes e on olem le osoe was a s c m, aned e e, chmad ck o se la neensee n. he k, ond, was o ss e aw sed sw oe o ee addn hm e an

Z U C C H I N I WI T H GA R L I C A N D L E M O NSE RV E S 4

BeadCumb Toig (otioal

slice s white sandwch bread torn i nto quarters tablespoon s unsalted butter

Zuhii

5 medium zucch in i (about ounces each

ends trimmed

able salt

smal garlic cloe mi nced or pressed through

garlic press (about 1 teaspoon

tablespoon plus I easpoon extra-irgin ol ie oi l

plu s extra or sering i desired teaspoons juice rom I lemon

round blac pepper

l FOR T BRD CRMBS (o ona ) :lse a n d ocesso coaseond ea n 2 nc nsck sk ee medm- ea n m dd eadcs an cook, sn e w eaoo e saa, n oden wn, ao3 mn e s anse sa w an se asd

2 FOR TE ZCCN: ac zccncossws n seeal eces, eac 2 o 3 nches

on S ac ece n ae oles o oae, an as nd a sddnseds an c (w c sl e scad oso a a cs s zccn oss zccn 1 easons sa and ac ncoande se n mdm ow an 5 o 0mnes Wa zccn kcn o, n aces ncessa, an wn css mse

3 ac zccn n m w an eak an ae cm s on ac w 2 easns n sal w a r zcc nan ss cn o

A L l (

4 Hea eann 2 easoons o nnonsck skle oe ea n anaeas dd zccn and sead eenwh ns cook who sn n ae owns, ao 2 mnes s we, a clms w ons, en cook noom ae owns, ao 2 mnes ea, s n emon jce and sa and ease Sere m edael, drzzn w adoe o, desed, and snkln wcms, sn

Z U C C H I N I W I T H TO M AT O E S A N D

S E R V E S 4

on e 3 cored, seeded, and dced oes, sa coe mnced ac, eassamc nea, 2 easoons ea-n o easoon sal and 2 aesoons choas e aes n s all ow and se asde Foe o Zcc h arc and Lemon 2, om ac n se 3 and elacnj ce w o1ao m re n se 4 sen ae, srnke c neamesan, and sere mmeda e, drzzaddona ole ol, dese

Z U C C H I N I W I T H S P I C E D C A R R O

A N D A L M O N D S

SE RV E S 4

Folow ses 2 and 3 o ece o Zccac and Lemo n, omn lc n se aesoon ea-n oe o n 2- nsck skle oe medm hea n sn dd c aed cao and cookoccasona, n ende, ao 5 mn asoon coande and easoon elakes and cook, sn consanl, n ao 30 seconds ncease ea o zccn and c oden rasns and

een n an ons ook n owns, ao 2 mnes s we, eaan clms wh ons, n cook nm ae rowns, ao mnes mea, add c slce, oased amon s, comne S n 2 easoons emand sa and ee o ase See mmzz n w addona oe l ds

Go to wcoosiustrat Ke in 76 o ou ecpe orZ

wt Peas ad es Recpe avaiab e unti Janua ,


18/36

ll G Kichen D yu really need $400 worth frged erman steel er;s ur guie t chosiand sig the essetial knivesand which nes dn't make the cut.

anufaurers o p you in o buying boks wih a dozen kn ives, bu sharp shoppes inves on y in he esseni als.

- I N C H C H E F ' S K I F E Boser Bascs

rom hoppng an on ion o min ing herbs and buhering a hiken,h is one knife wi l hande 9 0 peren ofyour kihen uing work.

Mos forged knives have a hi k oa r of mea n earhe hande a led a boser Designed o baane

oged o Samped?onvenional wisdo m diaes ha forged bladesmade by pour ing

molen see ino mol dsare superior o heaper samped bades,

whih are pun he ou of a shee of seel Ou r ess showed ha

he forgedsamped di sinion is less im poran han weigh. Some

esers i ked he maneuverabi l i of he l igher knive s, whil e ohers

referred he surdiness and baane of a heavier forged bl ade

he weigh ofhe b la de, i poses a probem for

home sharpe ners, as is hikn ess preens he eel

of he bade from passing hrough he sharp eni ng

han ne . Over he ouse of many sharpeni ngs (whihgadu aly wear down he bla de) he boser may

sar o prorude, prevening he bade from making

smooh ona wih he uing board.

Maeria WordMos ua i bla des are made from high

arbon sai n ess seel, a hard mea ha,ne sha rpened , ends o say ha waye reomme nd hem .) Some pu riss

refer arbon see kn ives, wh ih may

ake a sharper edge in iiall y bu don

eain for as lon g. xpensive erami

ades are ul ra-sharp bu ulra-fragi le

Ce Appeahef s knives wih a ong, geny

sloping urvaure beer performhe roking moi on neessay for

in ing and hopping han hose

wih a relaively sraigh lin e ha

urves abrupy a he ip.

* AN WNN R AR *

eing a Hande on Ie prefer moded p as hand es overhose made from wood (whi h o lesgrease and di r) or mea (whi h an ge

sli ppe) . M os of ou r es oo prefer

a simpe shape (no "ergonom bu mps

and ridges) an d a smooh eure raher

han a "pebbed inis h The handle shou d

balane he weigh of he b ade, making

The inexpensive, l igweigh FORSCHNR FIBROX ($ 3 6) was he favorieamon g esers who fan y l igher knive s Those who l ike a surdi er forged bad e

preferred he WUHOF ND PRIX I I ($ 94) s l reasonaby l igh

a igh, omfoabe sea wih your han d

hen shopp ing for a kn ife, ou boh

ommon grips (see "Two Basi Grip s,page 7 before aking your hoie .

- - - - - - -

1 IC PARING KN FE

paring kn ife is esseni al for ask ha requ ire

more dexeri and preisi on ha n a h efs knife

an provide peel ing and oring appes , devein ing

hrimp, uin irus segmens, a nd more.

he bade of a paing knife should be somewha

exible for easy maneuvering ino igh spossuh as omao ores) and for han dli ng urves

when peel ing and paring

* A W N N R *ih a paring knife, weig and balane a reess mporan han a sarp, agi e b lade a nda firm, omfoabe grip . The FORSCHNERFIBROX ($5 95 ) as boh for a ow pr ie

0 C BRAD KNIFEThe poi ned serraion s of a good bread knife glid e hrough rusbreads, bages , and omao skins o produe nea s l ies , wi le a poory

designed bread knife sli ps, suers, and sh reds is way hrough food.

A slighy urved bla de

keeps knu kles from

sraping he uingboard, al lowing aroking moion o uhrough ough russ

Poined seraions

give he bla de a goodgrip on he food righaway, wh i e wavy serra ions s ide aroundbefore digging in .

Knives shoer hanI 0 inhes endedo ah heir ips

on arger loaves;he b ade should berigid for sabe u inghrough ough russ.

* AN WN N R *The FORSCHNER FIBROX ($ 36) has i a l , i n u d ing

he os omfoable hande.

I D 6

O M M D D SDepending on wha you ook, you maywan o expand your rsena o in udesome of hese oher useful b lades

B O N N K I F EThe s im , f exib le b lade of a boni ng knife

is invaluabe for s l id ng hrough oi ns ,beween bones, and und er s i ver skn.

hoose a b ade beween 5 an d 7 i nhewih a apered ip an d an easy-o-griphand e, suh as he Foce i ox

: g ($ 8 ) , .

\ ' : S L I C I N / C A R V I N KN I F EA good aing knife does one hig ony

hi n , un iform sies fom ae us of mea

ou eiher ne ed one o ryou do n . ook fa saigh, nonseaed edge wih a un ifor

widh (a eas l in hes) from han dle

rounded ip and a rigid I 0-in h bade, l ik

ha of he Cef Ctl eged 10 ic

Gato Sl ice $45 see page 32) .

r - CLEAVERAbou e on y ime we reah for a mealeaver is when making homema de hi

sokwe 've ou nd he bes way o rele

favor from he bones i s o hak hem u

you ake his ask regulary, ons ider h

supersharp, surdy Gloal ($ I 06) or

l igher-we igh moSap ($40)

-! : ELECTRIC KFEi de from arving large hol iday roass,

eeri kn ives do an exe en job uinin o foods ha are a de u p o ayers widisin ly irm an d sof exuressuhas pean p ie and quesadi l aswhih ange mashed by a regula r hefs kn ife (Foperfeioni ss , admi edly.) e es ki

winner is he lac ad Dece EK800Slice Rigt ( $24 99) .


19/36

A knife loses is sharpness when he in ip of he uing edge ges knoked sligh y

u of alignm en, w hih an happen any ime he bade ma kes ona wih food

or a uing board. he knife may a dul ev en hough he edge i s si l q ui e sharp

i s jus poined in he wrong dire ion his an happen very qui kly if you are do

ng a o of heavy uing work, b u he edge an be ju s as qu ikly resored by u sing

sharpei ng see, whi h reaigns he edge and removes sligh irregua riieswo ways o proe your knifes edge ar e o avoid hard uing surfaes su h as

lass or aryi (sik o wood and pasi u ing boards) and o keep hem ou ofhe dishwasher, where geing knoked around migh damage hei r edge.

IS I SARP?o deermi ne i f your kni fe needs o be

sharpened, pu i o he paper es .

I Hod a folded, bu no reased, shee of newspaper by one en d

2 y he b lade agains h e op edge aan angle and sl ie ouward If he knife

fai ls o s i e lean ly, ry seei ng i. If i si l l

fa ls , needs sharpen ing

SINAND SINA SEELou shou ld see your knives regularly, before ea h us e if possibl e, bu sharpen hem

ony when neessary radiion a seels are l ighly grooved, magneiz ed i ron rods,

u we prefe he newer diamond seelsh o low oval ubes oaed wih d iamondus hese grind rae amou ns of meal from he knife wih ea h swipe, parially

harpeni ng he bl ade whil e sraighenin g i and exend ing he period be ween

harpenings. H owever, keep in m in d ha seelin g will on y reaign a fairy sharp

lade; a du ll kn ife has o be sharpened (see bel ow).

Hold he see p erpendi a r o he work suae,wih he ip resin g on a uing board

2 Plae he h eel of he bl ade agains he seel , wih hebade a a 20- degree angle away from i

3. ih a loked wris and l igh pressure, sl ide

he bade down he engh of he see in a sw ping moio n, p u i ng he bak of he bade oward youo ha he en ire engh of he b ade omes i n

ona wih he see

Repea he moion o n he oher side ofhe blade Four or ive srokes per side shou ld

eaign he edge.

SAENINhere are wo opions for grin din g a new edge on a kn ife a ho me

Shapeg stoe his ehod is effeive bu akes som e praie, an d i smore work han many home ooks wan o do I i nvolves a do ub e-s ided sharpen

ng sone, some elbow grease, and aou m inu es per b lade . (or sepbysepnsruions, see ook's xra, below a righ)

2 Kfe shapee An eer i home sharpener an resore h e edge of even aeriousy negleed blad e, p rovided you buy one wih a oare regrin di ng wheel,

suh as o ur favorie, he ef'shoce 0 ($ 80) . Some less expensive modelsfeaure only med um- and negrade s s ,god for perking up a slighy dul bade bu unab e o grind a omplee y new edgehese mah nes do remove a erain a moun

of meal from he b lade wih eah use, souse hem no more han n eessary.

BIF CI Q UWO BASIC RIPS

Hadle p

ih h e hand e gr ip , h e humb ress

on he side of he han dle opp osie he

in dex finger hi s grip is he favored by

es ooks wih sma le r hands For hose

Blade p

ook wih larger hand s ofen prefe

he b lade grip, in whih he humb a

index finger aual y gr ip he heel of

he b ade h i le his gr ip requi res a

who work lo ng hou rs wih a knife, i aso more han d srengh, i also proviesauses fewer a uses more onrol over he ip of he bad

SAF E S I W A D IN H AND 'By properly posiioni ng he ha nd ha is no hod ing he kn ife, you a n prevens i ppage, onro he size of he u, a nd

proe your in gers.

In his bear law posi ion , he inger ipsare urle d bak away from h e knife o hol dhe food in pae, wh i le he knukles res

agains he side of he bl ade , providi ng

guidane wih no danger of being u

o u mu l ip l e s l ies , use he u rvaure

of he ba de o guide he knife hrough a

series of smooh uing srokes S ome pa r 1. - /of he b ade sho uld remain i n ona wih -.\: ,he u ing board a al l imes. Dring he .upward moion, reposi ion he guid i ng

hand o se up he nex s l i e

O PP I A D I C I Ghis fas, oni nuou s moion makes

quik work of fresh herbs, oni ons , andhe l ike I begins wih he handle heldhigh and he kn ife ip on he u ngboard, held gen ly in plae wih hegui ding ha nd he fron half of he bladeremains i n ona wih he uingboard a a l imes.

AREF CARVINhe key o smooh , even us

is a ong sroke wih very mil d

downward pressure Le he

knife do he work, and avoid

shor, sawing srokes, whi h

yield ragged s i es

o to w coo ksl lu stated com Key n code 7 3 o ou Illstrted

Gde to Sreg Kves Avaale unt anu a I , 27

U Y A U G U 1 7


20/36

Hw t Gill OninsGrlle nns sally ck backeed tsie and raw insie Is there a better wa

Grn onons s rsk snss

rns a a tndnc to sp rot rat, and on t t coas, ando u n ams r t rsst t

of rat and smp rn and ackn rtr t ar 'r almost awas nnokd: raw on t nsd, atr on t ot

d And, inta, t'r ard to mana on rt' a rocss akin to rdn catM rst tout was to start wt a t ofcookn, t ta t smd s I trd rn

nons wo, a d, and artrd to k tmom fan tro t rat, t wt css ar, t otr ars tndd to for

ntrors nisd cookn Ad non offrd da of caramd xtror C oncdn at cs wr t loca ct (t xpos tatst rfac ara, I nta cos a nr

s afnc scHot rs ncnratd th onons, an d mdm

ot rs on rstd n rnd rns Modratat was t st wa to prodc a nt caraml

d xtror I pacd a fo an or t ononsk tm surrondd hat o stop t rns from plunn tro tat, I trd mta askts, wtot mc ck,

t skwr rod k (For t rst of orwr tsts s a ) o l t skwrs, I

on arnd to nor t rondd ands,"c t t scs sn Mor ffct was toa t cntrmost non slc wt tons os an onon art work for rn Ysd no Swt, md Vdaa onons a s a

watr contnt tat t cam ot mmd nspd wn rd Rar ow and

Y Z ; 3 \

wt onins a mor t, c mowd

aftr a tnt or t t coas, and rd nonsa xtra pnts for ook t or srsfaort was Sans onons, w won or tastrs wt thr mat ttr an d, com x"lar ro

C H A R CO A L G R I L L E D O N I O N S

SE RV E S 4

A tw- r n a carcoa r aows o toook an ntr or t ottr d w rint1 onons or t oor sd Sr nadorndr s n on of t rcs t1at foow

large Spanish onio ns (about pounds) .cut crosswise ito 1- inch round s

3 tablespoons o ive ol

Koser salt and groud bl ack pepper

rge disposable alumin m baking an

l rad onons onto mta skwrs; ac onakn st an rs ac sd wt o Sa sonac sd nros wit sat and ppr

2 t ar cmn startr d wt carcoa (6 arts, or aot 00 rtts and ltrn nt coa ar f td and partacord wt tn ar f as, aot 20 mn

ts Emt coa no r; d two- r stakn twotrds of coas n on af ofr andarrann rman as n sn ar n otrha ac ri rat or coas, or r, andat n rat s ot, aot 5 mnts; scraprat can wt r rs ac onons orcoor sd of r a cor wt amn m an

Tps o Keep g G l led os at Bay

S A F E T Y L I N E

You d o' e cedi fo oio ha

pue houh he ae o a

icdia di. Skewe keep

he i ou of ham' wa

I N S I D E J O B

Cove he o io wih a foi pa

ceae a ove effec ha co ok

he i eio fae (Fo a i ,

ju ue he id )

O F F H E H A D L E

I awkad o i p a kewe b he

ouded " hade ead ap a

cea ocaed oio ice wih

o ad e u i ove

K S S A

r onons, cord, nt onon r

ar dp odn rown and jst tndr,20 mnts, hckn onons r 5 mand ppn and rotatn skwrs a ndnsr cookn ransfr onion to and rmo skwrs; dard an otr crn Sr ot, warm, or at room tmr

G AS G R L L E D O I O N S

Hat r wit d down an a rnrs t tnt r ot, aot 5 m nts or mdm and ac onons on r o ntst of rc for Charcoa-Grd

omttn dposa almnm an an kr d down xcpt wn cckn onon

S W E E T A N D S O U R G R I L L E D O I O N R

W I T H A R S L E Y A N D O L I V E S

M A K E S 4 C U P S

h rs maks a ood accomanimrd tna

sk totr 2 tasoons rd in 2 taspoons xtrarn oi ol, tasar, and sat an ppr to tast n smast asd ac rcp rld non,

and copd nto -nc cs, n mow, aon wt1 cp ttd and coamata os, c rasns, c codars, drssn, an addtona sat and to tast; str to comin Sr

G R I L L E D O I O N R E L I S H W I T H

R O Q U E F O R T A N D W A L N U T S

M A K E S 4 C U P S

Sr th r wt rd

hsk totr tasoon asamic

taspoon trarn ol , and sar to tat n sma ow st a rp r nns, cood nd no -nc s, in mdm ow aon oncs crm ofort cs, p toastd wants, V4 p cs, drsn, and adtona salt and tat; tr to cmn Sr m mat Go to w .co oks lstrated

Key in cod e 76 for our reci e forOnio n Tomato and Arugula Saa

Recpe available until anua 2


21/36

Bette asta Salad it esAt ts best, pest s esh, geen, and ull hebal lav. Culd t stay that way

even when added t an Aecan pasta salad

Mre ligh a rshing hn reambase sauce r a chukyrag, pes akes pnchampaien asa dur

g he sury suer ms. There's igmpica abu his ucked Liguria sauce,

hich csiss prcesse esh asil, garlic,e us, armigianReggia cheese, ad live. nd tssig i wih h, juscked pasn' be easier. Bu numer us issues aris nces is aded a pasa sala. The rerigeratorl ls he cr and vr he pes, wh ich

s greasy ad clupy as he pas cools.

ecting t e Petbeg y rying varying rais he ve iea ingredies basi , garlic (banched brey e is harsh bie), armesa cheese, olive oi

ravirgi), and pin us (sd enhaceeir nu avr) . oun ha ad use a lbasi bewee 3 nd paked cus) o achievecen herbal avr nd he blk ned r hs cling he psa. Bu when mae evenew hurs ahea ime, e basil urne ark,

uy, and muh less sprgly. ding nhereen emen seemd he bvious sui.

rsey is c rick bu needed use souch i begn cpee ih h e basil l-r. ' seen zen chpped spinch used i ne

ie. W i ued pes nice, brighae gree, i als me he eue sringy.

he easy sin was ad a sml amun fesh baby spinach cup added 3 cups sil), hich prvided a vely brigh gree clor

Y

ad sh ur wihu inerrig wih hebsi vr.

Wi le he relivy hin cnsi seny rdiina pes mih e ne fr h ndles, ahicker, cremier pso was in order or rm-emerure ps . Bu mer h muh ld wih ingredien mouns, e peswas ways ss hn imaly creay. Uppinghe qu niy of chs nd i n n us hikeedhe es, bu s ddiins ls made i saly,griy, nd psy. ding mor i o sm uhe m iue oly md he pes grsy.

Sinc his dish wsn' eacly n lian lassic, decided o rrw sandr ingrie usein y mricn as salds myonise. Thecrmy, angy cndien srvd s h erecbindrso ng s i ws use in mderin.Si bespoos ws eough rvid cremy,luscious eure.

epin g te PtTh bs pasa ss r his dish hve eredsurc wih conc nk r wo can rphe pso nd kp i o sidng ih issuby rm, indnd ceer, nd jggd dgs,rlle made n ecellen pnr. nlik h

sJ hich shu generlly coked unill den, h s used in sds sul ckslighy longer, uni nder. r is n judgingwhen shpe psJ is done, s Kichn Noes,pJge 3

When he es s addd srigh jus cooked psa, i k n hu rech romemerur. h h pas s coked" he

a s i , e J ning i s im p c . nsi g heps in l er cd i don quickyu made h surce of he psa o slicko hol n he pes. h slui ws le he ps c in singe yer n

w B P no ha d o make a pes pasa saad ase good To ge he

peaane and exue o live up o he viban flavos we amewih wo easy iks

B R I G H T C O O Reening the basi ith

b sinach hee aintaine ests bight geen c

.C R E A M Y E XT U R E

ing a tch annaisee the tsic es

cea an chesie

rimmed bkin g shee, ssing in splsh il preen sicking.ll my s sld needd ws som n

r wking. emon uic cu hroughh richness, n d n er cu of osepine nus dd ino h pesocoed psadded swe, nuy noe s wel s euraconras. pin of qurred cherry m-oes r hvd grpe ms conriuedcor and sl urss of shness . in ly, had rased igurin ainsay ino mic picic cic

L b .\ l 1 , L 2 0 0 6

P A S T A S A L A D W I T H P E S T O

S E RV E S B TO A S A S I D E D I S H

his sala is bes serve e ay i is aebeen rerigerae, brig i

cook's illustrated 081

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