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Convert a Grindstone to Treadle Powerby bladegolem47 on April 17, 2015

Table of Contents

Convert a Grindstone to Treadle Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro:   Convert a Grindstone to Treadle Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1:   Tools and Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 2:   Modify the Drive Pulley, Part 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 3:   Modify the Drive Pulley, Part 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 4:   Add the Drive Hardware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 5:   Build a Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 6:   Build the Treadle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 7:   Installing the Treadle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 8:   Hooking It All Together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

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Intro:  Convert a Grindstone to Treadle PowerBefore the advent of electrical power in homes, a wide variety of tools and machines were powered by humans and animals. From the 1800s to the early 1900s, humanpowered tools were widespread among homes, farms, and businesses. In this instructable, I'll show you how I converted an electric motor powered grindstone into atreadle powered tool. I chose to do this because my workshop is not powered and it isn't practical to run several hundred feet of extension cords. It's also not a bad wayto get a little exercise!

Step 1: Tools and MaterialsMaterials Used

(Apologies if I do not know or remember the proper name of something I used. I included pictures to help you out)

1 tool to be converted1 3' section of 1/2" round steel stock6 1/2" washers1 3' section 1/4" threaded rod2 1/4" connecting nuts2 1/4"x3" eye bolts1 1/2"x4" hex bolt1 1/2"x3" hex screw1 1/2" nut1 1/2" nylon locking nut1 piece of 3/4" thick hardwoodSection of 1/4" plywood3 or 4 2x4 boards3/4" plywood for treadle pedal and table topWood screws ranging from 1" to 2 1/2" in lengthWood glue

Tools Used

Hand/miter sawHacksawChisels (optional- for mortise and tenon construction)Hand Drill1/2", 5/16", and 1/8" drill bits

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Screwdriver bitsMeasuring tapeAdjustable squareMetal fileClampsAdjustable wrench

Step 2: Modify the Drive Pulley, Part 1In converting my grinding wheel to treadle power, I wanted to avoid physically altering any parts of the grinding wheel. Instead of drilling through the drive pulley, Idecided to make a wooden insert that would support the hardware being driven by the foot treadle.

First I traced the inside of one of the pulley segments onto a piece of poplar wood that matched the pulley's thickness (Picture 1). In this case, both the rim of the pulleyand the wood were 3/4" thick. I then cut this wedge out and sanded and trimmed this piece until it fit snugly into the pulley (Picture 2).

Image Notes1. Trace this opening...2. ...onto some wood.

Image Notes1. Cut and trim the insert so it fits snugly.

Step 3: Modify the Drive Pulley, Part 2Next, I made 2 outer pieces of wood that would sandwich the piece of poplar into the pulley wheel. I traced outside of the pulley spokes and the outer rim (Picture 1). Thesize of these outer pieces are shown in Picture 2.

Picture 3 shows one outer piece in place on the pulley. Attach both outer pieces with short screws in case this needs to be removed at a later date. The wood should besecure and not have any wobble to it.

See the next step for the completed view of this step.

Image Notes1. Trace around this shape2. To get this shape. Make two of them.

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Image Notes1. Outer pieces should be flush with the pulley's edge.2. Note how the outer piece overlaps the pulley spoke.

Image Notes1. Both outer pieces installed.

Step 4: Add the Drive HardwareNext, I added the assembly that would turn the treadle power into rotational power. To do this, the treadle needs to be attached to a point offset from the drive pulley'smain axis. I chose to offset by about one inch so that I could achieve higher speeds with my grinding wheel. Placing this assembly towards the outer rim of the pulleywould allow higher torque but lower speed per rotation.

Drill a hole through the wooden pieces that is wide enough to fit a thick bolt (Picture 1).

I used the following hardware to make this assembly:

1: 1/2" x 4" hex bolt4: 1/2" washers1: 1/4" x 3" eye bolt (Chosen because the eye was 1/2" in diameter and would fit on the main bolt)1: 1/2" hex nut1: 1/2" locking hex nut (nylon insert nut)

The hardware and its installation order, from right to left, is shown in Picture 2. I had to file down the inner-most washer to get it to fit against the pulley (Picture 3).

Pictures 4 and 5 show the completed assembly installed on the pulley. Make sure not to tighten the locking nut too much- the eye bolt should be able to turn freelybetween the washers. This is necessary for the treadle to work.

Image Notes1. From left to right: locking hex nut, washer, eye bolt, washer, hex nut (regular),washer, washer, 4" bolt.

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Image Notes1. File down washer edges to fit better.

Image Notes1. Drive assembly installed. The bolt is too long, but it will not harm anything.Better safe than sorry.

Image Notes1. This eye bolt should be snug but still spin freely.

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Step 5: Build a StandThere isn't a lot I can say about this step since you will have to build your tool's stand to the size of yourself and the tool itself. In my case, I built a stand that is 36" talland 18"x18" square. Build your stand as square and as sturdy as possible. I used 2x4 boards and mortise and tenon construction. I also added adjustable feet to the legsof my stand to help keep the stand level. I recommend painting the stand to protect it from wear and weather, but it's currently too cold here for paint to set properly.

IMPORTANT: Leave at least one side open at the bottom, as shown in Picture 1. We will be mounting the treadle here later.

I added a central beam to support the weight of my grinding wheel. If you choose to do this, make sure it will not interfere with any mounting bolts for when you attach thetool to the top of the stand.

For the top of my stand I used 3/4 plywood and dimensional lumber that were scraps in my shop. The total top measures 24" x 24" to give some overhang on each side,as I will be attaching several other tools to the edges of my stand.

Before attaching the top to the stand, mark and drill any mounting holes, as shown in Picture 2. You will also need to cut a hole in the top that the pulley wheel (ifapplicable) and the treadle rod will fit through. This hole will need to be long enough to account for any horizontal movement of the drive assembly from Step 3, as well asallowing the drive pulley to turn freely. Picture 4 shows a front view of the clearances allowed.

Image Notes1. Central support

Image Notes1. Mounting holes and outline of the tool housing.2. Drive and pulley hole.

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Image Notes1. This hole should be long enough to allow the eye bolt to move horizontally.

Step 6: Build the TreadleNow it's time to start building the treadle that will power the grinding stone.

The treadle consists of a slab of wood which will be worked with your feet up and down to provide power to the grinding stone. I shaped mine to my dominant foot, butthis is optional. I used a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood that was 12 inches wide and 18 inches long. As shown in Picture 1, I decided the pivot point of the treadle would be 4inches from the back of the board and provided one foot's length of room in front of this point. The part of the treadle behind the pivot point is where your off-foot pressesdown to bring the treadle back up to repeat the cycle. Picture 2 has another view of the shaped treadle paddle.

Next, cut a piece of 2"x2" square stock that is as wide as the treadle paddle. I used a hand plane to smooth out what the down side would be. Using a router, chisel, orcombination plane, make a groove 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep. In the next step, you will use a piece of 1/2" steel round stock to create the pivot for the treadle. This groovedblock is what holds the paddle onto the steel (Picture 3).

Center the groove over the pivot point on your treadle, as shown in Picture 4. You will want this to be as centered and straight as possible. Secure the two piecestogether using glue or screws.

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Image Notes1. Treadle will be mounted along this axis, 4" from the back of the board.2. Rear foot position to bring treadle back "up".3. Front foot position to bring treadle "down" and apply power to the grindingstone.

Image Notes1. 1/2" by 1/2" grove to fit steel rod.

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Image Notes1. Centered at the 4" mark

Step 7: Installing the TreadleTo install the treadle, drill 2 parallel 1/2" holes through the front open space in your tool table. I put mine 4 1/2" off the ground based on what was comfortable for me. Thisis the height at which the treadle will pivot. Check to make sure your steel bar will fit cleanly through the holes (Picture 1). Cut the steel rod to length using a hacksaw. I letmine stick out about a half inch on each side of the table legs.

Next, make and attach the lower drive assembly to the treadle. As shown in Pictures 2 and 3, this is a simple assembly with a tapping hex bolt holding 2 washers and aneye bolt for a drive. Don't drill the pilot hole too large. Use a wrench to tighten this assembly into a block of scrap 2x4.

Using a connecting nut, I screwed in the 1/4" hex rod to the top drive assembly, as shown in Picture 4. This let me see where the rod would hang down so I knew whereto install the lower assembly. In Picture 5, I had to cut 1" into the side of the treadle before mounting the assembly. Picture 6 shows another view of the assembly and thethreaded rod lining up.

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Image Notes1. Centered 1/2" holes 4 1/2" up.2. 1/2" round steel bar.

Image Notes1. From right to left: 1/2" washer, 1/4" eye bolt, 1/2" washer, 1/2" x 3" hex bolt2. Scrap of 2x4 that will mount to underside of treadle.

Image Notes1. Installed assembly. Drill a 5/16" pilot hole for the screw. Don't over tighten.

Image Notes1. Installing the length of 1/4" threaded rod can help line up the treadle.

Image Notes1. I cut 1" in on the treadle to line this assembly with the one on the grindingwheel. They should be parallel with each other.

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Image Notes1. Threaded rod and eye bolt line up neatly.

Step 8: Hooking It All TogetherLift the treadle up by the eye bolt until it is horizontal, which will be the resting/downward position. Mark and cut the threaded rod so that it comes to the top of the eyebolt. Using the second connecting nut, connect the threaded rod to the eye bolt as shown in Picture 1.

Note: The second eye bolt may not thread well onto the threaded rod. It might be easier to partially disassemble the drive mechanism and thread everything together,then reattach it to the tool.

You now have a treadle powered grind stone!

Picture 2 shows the treadle at rest, while Picture 3 shows the upward or highest position. Using this setup, the treadle will tend to come to rest at the downward position.To set the treadle in motion, spin the drive pulley towards or away from you as the working motion of the tool dictates. In this case, I spin it away from myself. This pullsthe treadle up, where I can press down with my right foot. To continue the cycle, alternate pressing down with your front foot (to press down) and your rear foot (to bringthe front of the treadle up). It can be a tricky motion to get into, but it's like riding a bike- easy once you've got the motion down.

Feel free to ask if you need any clarification; otherwise, I hope this helps. Keep calm and treadle on!

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Image Notes1. Treadle at down position

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Image Notes1. Treadle at up position

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Image Notes1. All done!

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Comments

1 comments Add Comment

 BeachsideHank says:  Apr 22, 2015. 10:22 PM  REPLYA stationary velocipede, nice that you made it revertable to power without modifying the machine. Well done, nicely detailed, I hope they feature this one!