Container Gardening

1

Vegetable Gardening in Containers

Many Benefits

Fresh produce for nutrition

Satisfaction of growing your own food

Ornamental value

Educational, fun, and quality activity to do with children

Activity of gardening provides mental and physical health

Choosing Containers

Containers should be deep enough to support root systems.

Range from as small as 12” flowerpot to ½ whiskey barrel

The bigger a container, the easier it is to be successful!

The larger the mature plant is, the larger the container needs to be.

Good drainage is a must.

Preparing the Soil

Purchased potting soil

Do not use garden soil in container gardens

Applying a light layer of mulch helps conserve soil moisture (such as

shredded leaves, pine straw, commercial mulch)

Choosing Plants

Select varieties with a confined, compact, or dwarf growth habit

Seed catalogues, some local nurseries have new varieties especially for

containers

Varieties labeled compact, bush, dwarf, miniature, patio, or good for

containers

Varieties bred to be resistant to diseases or pests

Varieties that are suited to our southern climate

Varieties that have the qualities of color, taste, texture that you desire

Varieties that do well in containers include: beans, beets, carrots, collards,

cucumbers, eggplants, garlic, kale, leeks, lettuces, mustard greens, peas,

peppers, potatoes, spinach squash, Swiss chard, tomatoes

2

Cool season crops (leafy greens, carrots, beets, radish) can be planted in

late winter for spring harvest and again in the late summer for fall harvest.

Warm season crops (tomatoes, cucumber, peppers)

should be planted in late spring once nighttime

temperatures are above 55 degrees F and daytime

temperatures are at least 70 degrees F.

The back of seed packets are a wealth of information

about the plant’s requirements. Be sure to check the sell by/use by date.

Should I choose seeds or starts?

Succession Planting

Stagger planting dates at one-two week intervals.

When one planting gets harvested, then refresh the soil and replant.

Maximizes harvest

Fast growing plants, such as radish and baby greens, can be planted several

times through the season.

Growing Conditions: Sunlight and Water

If possible, locate containers in an area that you use frequently. It will make

remembering to care for and checking your plants much more likely. Out of

sight is often out of mind!

Containers can be moved, covered, wrapped for protection as needed.

Most vegetables need between 6 and 8 hours of direct sunlight (8+ is

better!)

Vegetables and fruits are about 90% water!

On average, vegetables need one inch of

water per week, so you supply what is not

provided by rain.

Seeds Plant Starts / Transplants

greater variety of seeds are available less variety available

less expensive more expensive than seeds

takes longer to grow to harvest start a garden quickly

harvest sooner

root crops (carrots, radishes, beets) do not transplant well

3

Water the soil and not the plant foliage to discourage diseases that can be

splashed onto the leaves.

Containers require more frequent irrigation, so check regularly

for water. In the heat of the summer, containers may need to be

watered more than once per day. Water just until it runs out the

bottom of the pots.

Locate the containers near a water source to make watering

easier.

Elevate the containers slightly to allow water to drain from the

bottom. This also allows the surface below your containers to dry out,

eliminating the possibility of wooden decks rotting or the staining of

concrete surfaces.

Watch out for water trapped in saucers, which can be a breeding habitat

for mosquitos.

Feeding Your Plants

When initially planting pots, you can add a time release fertilizer in pellet

form (such as Osmocote), using the rate on the package which is based on

pot size.

Through the growing season, a liquid fertilizer that is designed for fruiting

vegetables can be applied weekly. You want a fertilizer that is high in

potassium, but low in nitrogen.

You can find organic fertilizers at local nurseries.

Don’t be tempted to over-fertilize!!! More is definitely NOT better. Excess

gets washed out when you water and is money literally down the drain. Too

much fertilizer can cause plants to become too leafy (the plant sends the

most energy into making new leaves, rather than concentrating energy into

making their fruits) and can stress the plant, leaving it more vulnerable to

diseases.

For more information check out these recommended resources:

Planting Calendar for Container Edibles and Herbs in the Piedmont

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/container-garden-planting-calendar-for-edibles-in-the-

piedmont

Vegetable Gardening: A Beginner’s Guide

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/home-vegetable-gardening-a-quick-reference-guide

Home Vegetable Gardening - Getting started Additional sources of information on specific topics are referenced as Hyperlinks listed on the last page

Garden Needs - Sunny location with a minimum of 5-6 hours of sunlight daily, preferably 8-10

- Access to a water source: hose, rain barrel or pond, or other water catchment system

- Quality, well-drained soil or planting medium

- Convenient site, where you will be able to check on it frequently (close to the house)

Growing Seasons - Spring, for Cool Season crops planted early, well before the last average frost free date(April 1- 10)

- Summer, for Warm Season crops planted after all frost is past, grown until first frosts in fall

- Fall, for Cool Season crops established prior to frost but that tolerate moderate to freezing temperatures

- Winter, for Cold Hardy crops planted in fall but live through the winter such as kale, collards, turnip greens

Plant Selections See Vegetable Variety Guide on page 3.

- Herbs – Many are perennials that can be grown in containers (easily moved and great for small spaces), or planted in

permanent garden beds. Others are annuals which must be planted each year from seed or transplanted.

- Vegetables – Can be grown in containers, raised beds (easy to establish and removable) or in garden soil. Choose plants

based on the season, your tastes and space available. Asparagus is a perennial vegetable and needs a separate garden

bed where it can grow and spread for many years.

o Vegetables that do well in containers include: beans, beets, carrots, collards, cucumber, eggplant,

garlic, kale, leeks, lettuce, mustard greens, peas, peppers, potatoes, spinach, squash, swiss chard,

tomatoes and many others. Container Gardening Planting Calendar

Both containers and raised beds are a good choice for new gardeners as they are easy to establish, have few

weeds, and take up little space. The larger the mature plant, the larger the container needs to be.

Soil Preparation - For Containers - Purchase a good quality premixed potting soil (without polyacrylamides) or make your own

combining equal parts of compost, shredded pine bark mulch, and vermiculite. Homemade mixes should be

tested for soil pH and fertility. Container soil will dry quickly, requiring daily watering.

- In Raised Bed or In Ground - Amend your purchased or in ground soil with organic material, either homemade

compost, purchased certified compost, leaf or pine bark mulch. After the soil is mixed with organic material,

have a soil test done to determine the pH and nutrient content of your soil. Good garden soil should have a pH

of 6-6.5. Nitrogen is needed annually, so choose an organic source (blood meal, feather meal) or non-organic

source (ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate). If other nutrients are recommended by the soil test, you can

use a mixed fertilizer which contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (10-10-10 for example).

Supplies - Appropriately sized containers with drainage holes for container gardens; wood, plastic or stone siding material

for raised beds; supports such as a trellis or fence for vigorous climbing plants like cucumbers or beans, and

stakes for tomatoes

- Means of watering: hose, watering can or jug, irrigation (water soil, not leaves!)

- Gardening Tools: soil knife, pruners/clippers, trowel, small pick for planting and weeding, shovel, pitch fork,

rake, sprayer, wheelbarrow and tiller for larger areas (optional)

- Soil amendments: fertilizer, lime, mulch, compost

- Plants: seeds or transplants (grow your own from seed or purchase transplants)

August 2015

Garden Design - Plan for the size of plant when mature so you don’t shade out other plants – bean poles are tall!

- Rotate crop placement from year to year.

- Consider “Succession Planting” to extend each growing season by:

o Planting at 2-3 week intervals, prolonging your harvest.

o Using newly vacated spots to replant for a longer growing and harvesting season.

- Plan to grow crops in each of our 3 main seasons.

Seeds or Transplants See Vegetable Variety Guide on page 3. (Seed/Plant)

- Some seeds can be sown directly into the garden. Plant seed according to package directions.

Cool Season - arugula, beets, carrots, chinese cabbage, cilantro, kale, lettuces, mustard, peas, radishes, spinach, swiss chard

Warm Season - basil , beans, eggplants, peppers, squashes, tomatoes

- To grow transplants from seed – plant seed according to seed packet direction into a small pot, or peat pot

indoors or in a greenhouse. Plant indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting date allowing time for transplants

to be “hardened off” and ready by planting time. Hardening off ensures the transplant will be strong

enough to take full outdoor sun. Slowly introduce the transplants into full sun, each day over a couple

weeks’ time.

- After a hardening off period, plant transplants gently into moist, loose soil into the garden. If in a peat pot, make

sure the pot is completely covered with soil so it doesn’t wick water away and dry out.

- Seeds can be less expensive than using transplants but this will depend on the size of your garden.

- Purchase seed packets at local stores or order from seed catalogs.

- Purchase transplants at your local farmers market, garden center or other stores that sell plants.

Garden Care - Water new seeds and transplants every day until established, mature plants every two or three days

- Fertilize to maintain enough nitrogen

- Mulch to maintain moisture and control weeds (grass clippings, wheat straw, pine bark mulch, newspaper)

- Extend the growing season by protecting crops from extreme hot and cold; use mulch to keep soil temperatures

moderated, cover plants during freezing temperatures and shade from hot sun. Season Extenders

Pest and Disease Management

- Focus on reducing plant stress first! Give them adequate sun, water, and fertility

- Plant flowering plants that support beneficial insects to help control pests and aid pollination.

- Plant disease or pest resistant seeds or plants, i.e. VFN resistant tomatoes and hardy, disease free plants

- Concentrate on watering the soil and root area, not the foliage, to discourage disease.

- Examine plants for critter or insect damage or disease, to catch early.

- Use stake, cage or trellis to keep plants from toppling and remove dead/diseased plants to trash.

- Mulch with leaves, shredded wood, or pine needles to reduce weeds. Remove growing weeds - don’t let them

go to seed!

- Practice crop rotation - Pests and diseases can live in the soil near previous host plant. By moving the host plant

to a new area each year it reduces the pests’ ability to reproduce and disease build-up.

- Become educated and know what to look for. Specific plants have known problems: squash often get vine

borers; broccoli, collards and cabbages get cabbage loopers; melons can be prone to fungus, etc.

- Consider using products with the least toxicity. Some examples of organic control are: Bt, Diatomaceous Earth,

Horticultural Oils, and Insecticidal Soap. Be aware that many products that address your problem may also harm

non-targeted, beneficial insects and may be toxic to you, your pets or the environment. Read labels!

August 2015

Vegetable VarietySeed/ Late Winter/ Fall Days to

Cool Season Crops - Spring and Fall Planting - Not harmed by frost Plant Early Spring Maturity

Asparagus Jersey Giant, Jersey King, Jersey Supreme P 2/15-3/31 2 years

Beets Ruby Queen, Red Ace, Bull 's Blood (for greens) S 3/1-4/15 8/1-9/15 55-60

Broccoli Marathon, Packman, Premium Crop, Arcadia P 2/15-4/15 8/1-9/15 70-80

Brussels sprouts Long Island Improved, Jade Cross Hybrid P 6/15-7/15 85-95

Cabbage Round Dutch, Early Jersey Wakefield, Red Rookie (red) P 2/15-4/15 8/1–9/15 70-80

Cabbage, Chinese Pak Choi, Bok Choi S/P 3/15–4/1 8/15-10/1 45-80

Carrots Danvers Half Long, Sugar Snax 54, Thumbelina S 2/15–3/31 6/15-8/15 75-95

Cauliflower Early Snowball , Snow Crown P 2/15–4/15 8/1–9/30 55-65

Collards Vates, Morris Heading, Top Bunch, Blue Max S/P 2/15-4/15 8/1-9/15 60-100

Kale Dwarf Curled Scotch, Siberian,Vates, Blue Knight , Lacinito S/P 2/15–6/30 8/1-9/15 40-60

Kohlrabi Early Purple Vienna, Grand Duke S 2/15-6/30 8/1–9/15 50-60

Lettuce (head) Ithaca, Mighty Joe, Maverick S/P 2/1-4/10 8/25–9/25 70-85

Lettuce (leaf) Grand Rapids, Salad Bowl, Buttercrunch, Red Sails, Romaine S/P 2/1–4/20 8/25–10/1 40-50

Mustard Southern Giant Curled, Tendergreen S/P 2/15–6/30 8/1–9/15 30-45

Onions (seed) Texas Grano 1015, Granex 33 S 8/1-6/15 9/15-10/31 4-5 mos.

Onions (sets or plants) Texas Early Grano, Hi Ball, Scall ions P 10/1-3/1 60-80

Peas (edible-podded) Oregon Sugar Pod II, Sugar Snap, Sugar Bon S 2/15–4/15 8/1-9/30 60-70

Peas, garden Green Arrow, Tall Telephone S 2/15–4/15 8/1-9/30 65-70

Potatoes, Irish Kennebec, Red Pontiac, Superior, Yukon Gold S 2/15–4/1 95-120

Radish, Diakon April Cross, Everest S 2/15–6/30 8/1–9/15 60-75

Radishes Early Scarlet Globe, Cherry Belle,Easter Egg, , White Icicle S 2/15–6/30 8/1-9/15 25-30

Rutabagas American Purple Top, Laurentian S 2/15–4/15 8/1-9/30 70-80

Spinach Early Hybrid 7, Bloomsdale Long Standing, Tyee S 2/15–6/30 8/1–9/15 50-60

Swiss chard Lucullus, Rhubard Chard, Argentata S/P 3/15–5/1 60-70

Turnips Purple Top White Globe, Tokyo Cross, White Egg S 2/15–6/30 8/1–31 55-60

Warm Season Crops - Plant after Frost Free Date

Beans, Lima (bush) Fordhook 242, Bridgeton, Early Thorogreen S 4/10-6/15 7/15-8/1 65–80

Beans, Lima (pole) King of the Garden, Carolina Sieva S 4/10– 6/15 7/15-8/1 75–95

Beans, Snap (bush) Bush Blue Lake 274, Roma II S 3/20-6/15 8/1-9/15 50–55

Beans, Snap (pole) Kentucky Wonder 191, Stringless Blue Lake, Romano (flat) S 3/20-6/15 8/1-9/15 65–70

Cantaloupe Ambrosia, Athena P 4/15– 5/15 7/1-7/15 85-90

Corn, Sweet Silver Queen, Bodacious, Merit, Summer Sweet S 3/15 – 4/30 85–90

Cucumbers (pickling) Colt, Sassy S/P 4/20– 5/20 7/15–8/15 40-65

Cucumbers (slicing) Poinsett 76, Slice More, Stone Wall, Thunder S/P 4/15– 5/15 7/15–8/15 40-65

Eggplant Black Beauty, Calliope, Classic, Ichiban, Listada di Gandia S/P 4/15– 5/10 8/1-8/15 80-85

Okra Clemson Spineless, Lee, Annie Oakley II S 5/1– 5/30 8/1-8/30 60-70

Peas, Southern Queen Anne, Mississippi Silver, Pinkeye Purple Hull S 3/25-6/15 8/1-8/30 55-65

Peppers (hot) Habanero, Aji Dulce, Cayenne, Hungarian Wax, Jalapeno M S/P 4/15-5/10 8/1-8/15 75-80

Peppers, Bell/Ancho Camelot X3R, Excursion II, San Juan (Ancho) S/P 4/15-5/10 8/1-8/15 75-80

Pumpkins Autumn Gold, Howden’s Biggie,Magic Lantern, Spookie (small) S 6/15-7/10 115-120

Squash, Summer Goldbar,Dixie (yel low), Elite (zucchini ), Sunburst (sca l loped) S 4/1 – 5/30 7/15-8/15 50-60

Squash, Winter Butternut Supreme, Veg. Spaghetti, Golden Hubbard, Table Ace S 4/15 – 5/20 70-95

Sweet potatoes Beauregard, Hernandez, Jewel P 5/1– 7/15 95-125

Tomatoes Mtn. Spring, Celebrity, Better Boy, Cheroke Purple, Sun Gold S/P 4/15–5/10 8/1-8/15 75-85

Watermelons Crimson Sweet, Mardi Gras, Sangria, Atlantic Giant S 4/15 – 6/30 90-100

Revised 1999 by Larry Bass , Extension Horticultural Specialist, Emeritus

Revised 2013 by Cindy Sanborn, Wake County Extension Master Gardener, Dr. Jeana Myers, Horticulture Extension Agent, Wake County, Raleigh NC

Planting Date

Vegetable Variety Guide listed by Seasonal Planting Date(s) for Wake County, NC

Hyperlinks Rain Barrel http://media.clemson.edu/public/restoration/carolina%20clear/toolbox/cc_rainbarrel_manual_may11.pdf

Water Catchment/Rain Water Harvesting http://www.seattle.gov/util/environmentconservation/mylawngarden/rain_water_harvesting/

Container Gardening http://cals.ncsu.edu/hort_sci/extension/documents/AG-753_ContainerGardeningforEdibles_Online.pdf

Constructing Easy Raised Bed

http://www.advocatesforhealthinaction.org/system/files/files/How%20To%20guide%20for%20Raised%20Bed%20Gardening,%20Kathleen%20Hebert.pdf

Home Asparagus Production http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-8002.html

Container Gardening Calendar http://cals.ncsu.edu/hort_sci/extension/documents/ag-748.pdf

Polyacrylamides http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/horticultural%20myths_files/Myths/Hydrogels.pdf

Soil Testing http://www.ncagr.gov/agronomi/sthome.htm

Garden Tools http://lee.ces.ncsu.edu/2013/04/basic-garden-tools-3/

Vegetable Transplants http://granville.ces.ncsu.edu/2012/02/starting-vegetable-seeds/

Season Extenders http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-381/426-381.html

Great Websites

Growing Small Farms Vegetable Variety List http://growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/growingsmallfarms-varietylist/

Home Vegetable Gardening Leaflets http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hvegnew.html

NCSU Hort Gardening http://cals.ncsu.edu/hort_sci/gardening/

The Raleigh Yard Waste Center Raleigh Yard Waste Center

Urban Horticulture http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/

Wake County Extension Master

Gardeners

Office Hours

Monday – Friday, 9-12 and 1-4

Call 919-250-1084

Email

mgardener@wakegov.com

gardening.ces.ncsu.edu

Prepared by:

Cindy Sanborn

Master Gardener, Wake County

Raleigh, North Carolina

Dr. Jeana Myers

Horticulture Extension Agent

Wake County

Raleigh, North Carolina

North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service

Wake County Center

4001-E Carya Drive

Raleigh, North Carolina 27610-2914

Growing Vegetables OrganicallyPrepared by

George Boyhan, Robert Westerfield, Suzanne Stone

Growing vegetables organically can be rewarding and productive. Thispublication explains the basic elements of successful organic vegetable

production, from initial site location, soil preparation, irrigation and variety selection to insect and disease control, composting, mulching and fertilization, and successive planting and crop rotation.

Garden LocationThe garden should have a southern exposure (south side of your home) or be in an open field if at all possible. Full sun all day is desirable; however, at the least there should be a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct sunlight at the chosen location. A well-drained site even after a heavy rain is necessary particularly for root vegetables. Poor drainage may be improved by regrading, digging ditches, installing a tile drain field, or building raised beds.

Nearby trees and shrubs may have extensive root systems that may interfere with water and nutrient uptake of plants at your site. Locate the site to minimize or avoid this problem. As a last resort, consider removal of trees and shrubs that may interfere with production.

Land with a slope of 1.5 percent or greater (18-inch elevation change in 100 feet) should be avoided or terraced to prevent runoff and soil erosion. Contour planting, which is setting the rows to follow the contour of the land, can also help with runoff problems. Ask your local county extension agent for more information on dealing with this situation.

The site should also have a water supply nearby. Sites with serious weed problems such as nutsedge, Bermuda grass, or kudzu should be avoided unless adequate measures are taken to control them. This does not preclude using these sites, but considerable work is required to remove and control these weeds.

You should consider fencing the site if you have a significant wild animal population nearby. Deer, raccoons, and rabbits, to name a few, may become problems. Domestic animals such as dogs may also become a problem because many like to dig. Fences as high as 6 feet, an electric fence, or some combination may be required to control animals such as deer. Local building codes and/or restrictive covenants may govern what type of fence or even if a fence can be erected. Electric fences in particular may be prohibited in residential neighborhoods. Finally, for convenience, a location near the house is desirable.

Not all of the above recommendations can be accommodated in all situations. Many established neighborhoods have large shade trees and extensive landscaping. This may preclude having a garden, but container gardens may still be possible where they can be moved to sunny locations as needed. Growing leafy greens may still be possible in a less than ideal light situation, but they will require some full sun during the day.

Garden PlanningThe size of your garden will determine, in part, many aspects of your garden plan. Large gardens where tractors will be used can be worked more easily with long rows; small gardens may be worked more easily in small beds with footpaths surrounding them.

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically2

There are many other things to consider in planning your garden. Fertility requirements vary with the crop, so heavy feeders and light feeders may be grouped separately to help manage fertilization. Long-season crops such as eggplant, tomato, pepper, and okra should be planted so they don’t interfere with replanting short-season crops such as beans and brassicas. Tall-growing crops such as pole beans, tomatoes, and corn should be planted so they don’t shade shorter crops. You may not be able to accommodate all of these recommendations in your garden, but you should try to accommodate as many as possible to help insure a successful garden.

An important part of garden planning is record keeping. General information about soil amendments used and weather information (particularly rainfall and first and last frost dates) can be useful, especially when tracked from year to year. Specific information about a particular vegetable can also be helpful for future planning. Information such as variety selection, planting date, days to harvest, disease, and insect problems should be noted. This data can help you determine which vegetables and varieties are best for your location.

Watering, fertilizing, and any cultural practices should also be recorded. This helps in determining what should be done in the garden from day to day.

Finally, keep track of what is grown where in your garden. This information will help with successive plantings and crop rotation as noted elsewhere in this publication.

When to plant is also an important part of garden planning. Table 1 lists the hardiness and days to maturity for several vegetables. Vegetables can be classed into two broad categories: warm- and cool-season crops. Warm-season crops can be further subdivided into tender and very tender vegetables, and cool-season crops can be subdivided into hardy and half-hardy crops. Very tender crops cannot stand any frost and will not do well under cool nighttime temperatures (below 55°F). Tender crops also don’t like frost but can stand cooler night temperatures. Hardy cool-season vegetables can withstand frost and can be grown during the winter in all, but the coldest northern parts of Georgia. Half-hardy cool-season vegetables can withstand cool temperatures and light frosts, but hard freezes and heavy frost can be detrimental.

IrrigationIrrigation is critically important when growing vegetables. Several different methods of irrigation can be used, with overhead and trickle irrigation the most common.

Trickle irrigation is the most water-use efficient because water is delivered directly to plant roots with a low volume soaker hose, drip tape, or emitters. There are some disadvantages of trickle irrigation including cost of installation and maintenance. These types of systems may need to be monitored more closely especially with newly transplanted plants. These systems may not wet the soil sufficiently or evenly for new plants. Drip irrigation tape or soaker hose placement may have to be adjusted particularly during plant establishment

Overhead sprinkler systems are easy to use and require less maintenance and monitoring. They can; however, result in uneven water application and use water inefficiently. For more detailed information on irrigation see Irrigation for Lawns & Garden, Bulletin 894 from Georgia’s Cooperative Extension Service.

Soil PreparationOrganic gardening requires a long-term outlook with respect to soil preparation. In fact, the key to successful organic gardening is to feed the soil with organic matter, which feeds the plant, rather than to feed the plant with inorganic fertilizer as in conventional production. An ideal soil would have equal parts of sand (0.02 to 2.0 millimeters), silt (0.002 to 0.02 millimeters) and clay (0 to 0.002 millimeters), and contain about 5 percent organic matter. Most mineral soils in Georgia will have less than 1 percent organic matter and are rarely ideal. However, with work, most soils can be improved and made productive.

Because it takes a long-term outlook to build a good soil, don’t be disappointed if your results are less than ideal the first year or two. New sites should have all plant matter removed or turned under. Areas with Bermuda sods or other invasive plants should have the plants removed to the compost pile (see “Composting” in this publication) and the soil turned under to expose roots and rhizomes to desiccation. In addition, soil solarization (see “Soil Solarization” in this publication) can help control these hard-to-control weeds.

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically 3

Some soils may have hardpans, which are impervious layers several inches under the soil. These hardpans are often found on old farmland or new home sites where equipment has compacted the soil. In either case, these hardpans must be broken up. On clay soils this can be very difficult.

Soils should be turned to 10 to 12 inches deep. One method is to double dig the garden. Dig a trench 6 to 8 inches deep along one side of the garden, placing the soil on the outside edge of the garden. Then use a spade or garden fork to loosen the soil 6 inches deep at the bottom of the trench. Soil adjacent to the trench on the inside edge of the trench is moved to fill the existing trench, creating a new trench in its place. Again with a spade or garden fork, loosen soil in the bottom of this trench to a 6-inch depth. Continue in this fashion until the entire garden has been double dug. The soil from the first trench can then be moved into the last trench. This method of garden preparation will result in a deep tumed soil, but is very labor intensive. Alternatives include use of equipment such as tractor-mounted plows or a rototiller set to the deepest depth. Organic matter should be added during this deep-turning process.

Organic matter in soil is important for two reasons. First, as it breaks down, it releases nutrients that crops can utilize, and second, it improves the water- and nutrient-holding capacity of the soil. The amount of organic matter to add varies with the chosen material, the type of soil, and weather conditions. On sandy soils in tropical and subtropical regions, as much as 2,300 to 4,600 pounds per 1,000 square feet may be required to gain a benefit from the addition of organic matter. On heavier soils in regions with cooler climates and less rainfall, as little as 200 pounds per 1,000 square feet may be sufficient.

As an example, an acre of dry soil 6 inches deep weighs about 2 million pounds, which means that 1,000 square feet of soil to the same depth weighs approximately 46,000 pounds. If we wished to raise the organic matter of this soil 1 percent, we would have to add 460 pounds of organic matter. The amount of material required may actually be quite a bit more because most organic sources have a high water content, as much as 50 percent or more. In addition, many have high ash (nonorganic residues) content, as high as 25 percent or more. Organic matter with 50 percent water content and 25 percent

ash would require 1,840 pounds applied to 1,000 square feet to raise the organic fraction of the soil 1 percent. This may be impractical both in terms of obtaining the necessary organic matter and the fact that organic matter may be required each year to sustain the increase. Low rates (200 pounds per 1,000 square feet) of organic matter can have a noticeable improvement in soil tilth. Additions of 500 to 1,000 pounds of organic matter per 1,000 square feet per year can have a beneficial effect on soil tilth and plant growth. Table 2 lists the minimum amounts of several types of organic matter that should be added to the soil. It is highly recommended that you have the organic matter tested so that application rates can be adjusted accordingly. The University of Georgia’s Soil Test Laboratory (http://aesl.ces.uga.edu) can perform this function. In all cases, fresh manures should be composted to kill harmful pathogens and weed seed. In addition, fresh manures can damage plants and be hazardous to the environment through runoff.

CompostingCompost is an excellent source of organic material for your garden. If you make it yourself, it has the added benefit of reducing the amount of waste your household generates. All organic kitchen and garden waste except animal products can be composted. Material such as bones and animal scraps should be avoided because they attract vermin, flies, and scavenging animals. A convenient size for a compost pile is 4 feet wide by 5 feet long by 5 feet high. A frame made of rot resistant lumber can be built to hold the compost. In addition, containers specifically designed for composting can be purchased including types that can be easily tumbled.

If you build your own compost pile, begin the compost by adding 12 inches of organic matter (kitchen scraps, yard waste, etc.). Then apply I to 2 pounds of high-nitrogen organic fertilizer such as dried blood, guano, or poultry manure. Finally, add 2 inches of soil. Continue building the compost pile in this layered fashion as you generate organic matter. Another method of composting is to add 65% ‘brown’ material with 35% ‘green’ material. ‘Brown’ materials include yard clippings and raked leaves, while ‘green’ material include grass clippings and kitchen scraps. For complete and rapid decomposition, the compost

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically4

pile should be turned regularly particularly during the initial stages. The center of the pile should be concave to hold rain water. The center of the pile should begin to heat up within a couple of weeks. The composting process should be complete within two to three months, depending on material and outside temperature.

Large material such as tree limbs, corn stalks, etc., should be chopped into smaller pieces to facilitate decomposition. Some materials, such as lawn clippings, will decompose very rapidly; others will require turning the compost pile to reposition the material and adding more high-nitrogen organic fertilizer. This will restart the heating and decomposition process.

If you use materials from outside sources (i.e. pasture hay or straw), you should check to make sure no persistent herbicides have been applied. Herbicides such as picloram (Grazon®) are extremely persistent and will damage your plants.

Green ManuresAny crop grown on land with the intent of turning it into the soil is called a green manure. Generally, legumes and various grasses are grown as green manure. Turning under a crop can provide a number of benefits, including increasing organic matter of the soil, decreasing certain disease problems, and increasing the nutrient level in the soil. After the green manure is turned under, it decomposes and adds nutrients and organic matter to the soil.

When used as a green manure, grasses and small grains can decrease the incidence of nematodes. Nematodes are microscopic worms that feed on certain plant roots, weakening the plants.

Using various legume crops can increase the amount of nitrogen in the soil. The amount of nitrogen will depend on the crop, the time of year, and when in the crop cycle the plants are turned under. Anywhere from 30 to 125 pounds of nitrogen per acre may be added to the soil when a legume crop is turned under. Table 3 lists several crops that can be used as green manures.

Soil SolarizationDifficult to control weeds and soilborne pathogens may be controlled with soil solarization. Soil solarization in temperate regions where there can be a significant number of overcast days may require an entire season to be effective. For best results solarization should extend over the entire summer. Although an entire season may be lost, weed and soilborne pathogen control will carry over to the following season. This can be particularly effective when done prior to winter vegetable production.

Soil solarization involves covering the soil surface with clear plastic for eight to 12 weeks or longer. Clear plastic is used because most of the light energy is transferred to the soil. Black plastic absorbs a lot of heat, but it also shades the soil and is not as effective as clear plastic.

To begin with, all plant material and crop residue, as is practical, should be removed. The soil should be turned to break up any clods of soil and raked smooth. The area should be watered thoroughly so the soil is saturated. The area then should be covered with a clear plastic sheet of 1-4 mils thick. The sheet can be secured along the edges with soil or rocks. Soil solarization works best when air temperatures are high and sunlight is most intense during the summer months. Soil solarization is not effective during extended periods of cool temperatures or overcast weather.

Starter SolutionsStarter solutions can help get transplants and newly emerged seedlings off to a good start. High phosphorus is particularly important in these solutions because it encourages root growth, however, high phosphorus organic fertilizers may not be readily available. Water soluble fertilizers such as fish emulsion can help plants get off to a good start. This material should be mixed with water at a rate of 2-4 tablespoons per gallon and applied to newly set transplants. Apply ½ to 1 pint of this solution to each plant.

In the past manure teas were recommended as a starter solution. This practice should be abandoned because of the possibility of transmitting human pathogens.

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically 5

Successive Planting and Crop RotationBecause of the relatively long growing season in Georgia (particularly South Georgia), it is possible to produce more than one crop a year on the same land. Planting a second or third crop on the same land within the same year is called successive cropping or double cropping. Crop rotation, on the other hand, refers to planting different vegetables on the same land from year to year. Related vegetables should not be planted on the same land in succession or rotation. For example, squash should not be followed with a related vegetable such as watermelon, cantaloupe, or cucumber. This practice helps minimize soilborne disease problems and helps maintain soil fertility. Table 4 lists related vegetables, which will help you plan successive plantings and rotations.

Crop and Variety SelectionOne of the most important decisions an organic grower makes is crop and variety selection. Not all vegetables do well in all locations. Vegetables commonly grown in your area are your best bet for success. Trial and error will also help determine which vegetables are best suited to your area. As you try different vegetables, keep records so that this information can be used in planning subsequent years. Climate, disease, and insect problems will be important criteria when selecting vegetable crops. It should be pointed out; however, that one year’s results may not be enough to determine the success of a particular vegetable. For example, a mild winter may result in a greater insect problem than one might expect the following season. On the other hand, a cold winter may result in sufficient suppression of the insect to make for a successful year.

Variety selection is another important consideration when selecting crops to be grown. When available, varieties with disease and insect resistance are best. Resistance, however, is seldom 100 percent, and the plant may show some symptoms but less severe symptoms than susceptible varieties.

Varieties can be grouped into two broad categories based on how they were developed. F1 hybrids are developed from crossing lines that have been inbred for several generations. These varieties have advantages of increased uniformity and, often, increased yield

compared with open-pollinated varieties. The disadvantage of these varieties is that the seeds are costlier and seed saved from hybrids will not perform as well if planted the following year (they are said not to be true-to-type). In addition, F1 hybrid varieties are constantly being changed by the seed companies. Not all vegetables lend themselves to F1 production. Because of the low amount of seed produced from each cross, beans and peas are not available as F1 hybrids.

Open-pollinated varieties are less expensive, and popular open-pollinated varieties will remain in the market for years. In addition, these seed will remain true-to-type from one year to the next. Most older varieties are open-pollinated types. Very old varieties are often referred to as heirloom varieties, and many can be dated to the previous century and beyond. These varieties are often sources of unusual colors, shapes, and flavors.

Several vegetables are reproduced vegetatively; that is, from parts of the plant itself. These would include sweetpotatoes and Irish potatoes. To improve your results with these crops, buy certified slips for sweetpotatoes and seed pieces for Irish potatoes. The certification process insures true-to- type, disease-free material.

MulchingMulching serves several purposes in organic production including reducing weed growth, conserving soil moisture and nutrients, regulating soil temperature, helping prevent soil erosion, and reducing water splashing on plants (which keeps them cleaner and reduces the spread of disease). An added benefit comes from organic mulch: As it decomposes, it increases the amount of organic matter in the soil. Almost any organic matter can be used successfully as mulch. This can include things such as hay, straw, leaves, pinestraw, or bark. Avoid materials that may have a lot of seed such as overgrown grass clippings. Fresh material, particularly sawdust should be avoided because it can rob your soil and thus your plants of nitrogen. In addition, avoid organic material that may be contaminated with toxic chemicals or herbicides because these may damage your plants. Pastures are often treated with herbicides that can injure plants when mulch is used from such sources. In addition, some herbicides such as picloram (Grazon®) can even survive the composting process.

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically6

Mulches should not be applied too early in the spring because this can delay soil warming. Wait until the soil is 65°F to a depth of 4 inches before applying. Solid materials such as newspapers should be weighted with soil to prevent them from blowing away. Weed control with mulches may require the continual addition of new material to smother weeds as they emerge. Keep all mulches 2 to 3 inches back from the stems of plants.

FertilizationYou must have accurate information about your soil to fertilize properly. First, the pH of the soil is important in determining nutrient availability to the crop. Optimum pH for most vegetables is between 6.0 and 6.5. Soil testing is the only accurate method of determining the soil pH. Such tests will offer recommendations on the amount of lime to apply if the soil pH is too low. Approximately 1 ton of lime is required to raise the pH of an acre 1 point. This is about 5 pounds per 100 square feet. The actual amount of lime required, however, will vary based on soil texture, the crop grown, and the buffering capacity of the soil. In order to determine proper fertilization, it is important to know the nutrient status of the soil, which a soil test will provide. To illustrate using tables 5 and 6, assume you are planting only heavy feeders in your garden and plan to use Fertrell Super as an organic fertilizer. Heavy feeders require 3 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Fertrell Super contains 4% nitrogen. Convert 4% nitrogen to its decimal equivalent by dividing 4 by 100 to get 0.04. Calculate the pounds of Fertrell Super required to provide 3 pounds of nitrogen by dividing 3 by 0.04 to get 75 pounds. If your garden is smaller or larger than 1,000 square feet, adjust the amount accordingly.

Organic fertilizers are low in solubility. In addition, since plants require nutrients in their simple ionic form, these nutrients must undergo a process of mineralization to become available for plants to use. This means that organic growers need to plan ahead concerning their fertility needs. Organic fertilizers generally will have to be applied earlier than conventional fertilizers and may have to be applied in greater quantities. Applications of organic materials such as manures and compost are not necessarily to added to soils as fertilizers, but rather

to improve soil characteristics such as water and nutrient holding ability.

Weed ControlWeed control will the single most difficult problem that organic growers will face. Although effective herbicides are few, there are several things growers can do to manage this problem.

Using stale seedbed preparation can dramatically reduce the amount of weeds. This involves preparing land for planting at least two weeks before planting. During this two week period weed seedlings are allowed to germinate. The land is then lightly tilled (2-3 inches) to kill these emerging weeds. Deep turing can be counterproductive because it brings weed seed to the surface from deeper in the soil.

Cover crops can help reduce subsequent weed pressure, particularly when sown at a heavy rate. Some covers like brassicas and certain grasses can have allelopathic effects, that is they inhibit the germination of other species.

Soil solarization and mulches, both natural and synthetic, as mentioned above, can also be very effective at controlling weeds. There are a handful of natural herbicides available; however, they tend to be expensive, non-selective, and not particularly effective.

Finally the most important method of weed control is physical control of weeds. This can be as simple as hoeing your garden regularly, to using more sophisticated weeding equipment such as tine weeders, rototillers, sweeps, etc.

Insect and Disease ControlThe best first-line method of reducing insect and disease pressure is to use resistant varieties when available. A good example is VFN tomatoes, where the VFN stands for Verticillium-, Fusarium-, and nematode-resistance. Your local county Extension office or seed supplier will have the latest information on available resistant varieties.

Keep the garden as free of diseases as possible. Plants with disease symptoms should be removed and destroyed. A properly constructed compost pile, which should heat up in the center, can

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically 7

control many diseases.

Keeping your plants dry will help reduce disease pressure. Using trickle irrigation rather than overhead will reduce the amount of time plants remain wet and also conserve water. Of course, there’s nothing we can do about the rain.

Crop rotation also can be an important method of controlling some, but not all soilborne diseases. The proper crop rotation can substantially reduce nematodes in the soil, but will do little to reduce southern blight.

Insect control begins with healthy plants. Don’t bring problems into your garden; buy insect-free transplants. Timing is also important. Insect populations tend to increase as the season progresses, so planting early can avoid many insect problems. Encourage beneficial insects to stay in your garden. This can be as easy as nailing a horizontal board to a fence to encourage wasps to build a nest.

Finally, there are many organically acceptable products that can be applied to your crops. Find the most recent list of products acceptable for organic farming from the Organic Materials Review Institute (http://www.omri.org/omri-lists/download).

To control diseases there are several products that can be used. Using sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or potassium bicarbonate has been successfully used to control some diseases. Sodium bicarbonate has the disadvantage of accumulating sodium over time, whereas potassium bicarbonate is a source of potassium, an important plant nutrient.

Sulfur and lime-sulfur are effective fungicides against some diseases. Sulfur has been used since ancient times particularly for controlling rust diseases. Lime-sulfur will be more effective at lower concentrations; however, it has a strong rotten egg smell.

Copper based fungicides have also been around for a long time. Copper sulfate, known as bluestone, is an effective fungicide. When mixed with lime (calcium hydroxide) it is known as Bordeaux mixture and was originally used to control grape diseases.

In addition to organic fungicides there are organic insecticides available that can be effective. Horticultural oils, particularly neem oil, can be effective against many insects. Horticultural oil can

also be effective in preventing the transmission of plant viruses by aphids.

Spinosad is a naturally occurring bacteria that has insecticidal properties. It is very effective against a wide range of insects by disrupting their nervous system.

Insecticidal soaps are effective against soft bodied insects like aphids and mites. It is important to use the right kind of soap. Long-chain fatty acids act as insecticides whereas short-chain fatty acids act as herbicides. The latter can cause extensive damage to plants.

BT is also a naturally occurring bacteria that affects caterpillars. The caterpillars have to eat the material and it then kills them by affecting their gut. Because the insect must consume it first, it should be applied before insects are present.

Beauveria bassiana is a fungus that attacks the cutin (insect exoskeleton) causing the insect to literally rot.

Finally, naturally occurring pyrethrins are very effective insecticides that are made from Chrysanthemums. Check with your local county Extension agent, who can give you the latest information on these insect, disease, and weed control in organic production.

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically8

TablesTable 1. Vegetable hardiness and days to maturity

Crop Hardiness Days to MaturityAsparagus Perennial, winter tolerant Second Season

Bean, bush Tender 50-60

Bean, pole Tender 65-75

Bean, lima Tender 65-75

Beet Half-hardy 55-65

Broccoli Hardy 60-80

Cabbage Hardy 65-80

Cantaloupe Very tender 80-90

Carrot Half-hardy 70-80

Cauliflower Half-hardy 55-60

Collard Hardy 55-70

Corn Tender 80-100

Cucumber Very tender 60-65

Eggplant Very tender 75-90

Kale Hardy 50-70

Lettuce Half-hardy 60-85

Mustard Hardy 40-50

Okra Very tender 55-60

Onion Hardy 100-120

Peas, garden Hardy 60-80

Pepper Very tender 65-80

Potato, Irish Half~hardy 70-90

Radish Hardy 25-30

Southernpea Tender 60-70

Spinach Hardy 40-45

Squash, summer Very tender 50-55

Squash, winter Tender 85-120

Sweet potato Very tender 90-150

Tomato Tender 70-85

Turnip Hardy 45-65

Watermelon Very tender 80-90

Table 2. Amount of organic matter to add from various sources.1

Material Rate/1000 Sq. Ft.Cattle manure 150-500 Ibs.

Compost 4 bushels

Horse manure 100-200 Ibs.

Poultry manure 50-200 Ibs.

Sheep manure 75-100 Ibs.

Swine manure 75-100 Ibs.

1Rates are minimum initial applications; you may wish to experiment with more or to have the material analyzed for actual nutrient content and adjust application accordingly. In addition, you may wish to have your soil tested to determine the amount of organic matter present.

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically 9

Table 3. Green manure crops, season of growth, amount of seed, and type.

Crop Season Seed (lbs./acre) Type Nitrogen (lbs./ton dry material)Buckwheat Summer 75 Non-legume 14

Crimson clover Winter 15 Legume 45

Rye Winter 75 Non-legume 21

Southernpea Summer 90 Legume 60

Soybean Summer 75 Legume 46

Sudan grass Summer 25 Non-legume 28

Vetch Winter 30-50 Legume 62

Wheat Winter 75 Non-legume 20

Table 4. Vegetables in related groups or families.

Nightshade Family Legumes Cucurblts BrassicasEggplant English pea Cantaloupe Broccoli

Irish potato Lima beans Cucumber Cabbage

Pepper Peanuts Pumpkins Collards

Tomato Snap beans Squash Mustard

Southernpea Watermelon Turnips

Table 5. Comparison of fertilizer needs for heavy, medium, and light feeders with a medium soil test for phosphorus and potassium in pounds per 1.000 square feet of actual nutrient (nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium).

N P K

3.0 2.8 2.8 Heavy Feeders

2.2 1.8 1.9 Medium Feeders

0.8 0.9 0.9 Light Feeders

Table 6. List of vegetables based on whether a light, medium, or heavy feeder..

Relative fertilizer needs Crops

Light Feeders Southernpeas

Medium Feeders Asparagus Corn Peppers

Beans, all Cucumbers Pumpkin

Beets Eggplant Radish

Broccoli Greens Squash

Cantaloupes Herbs Sweetpotato

Carrot Okra Swiss chard

Cauliflower English peas Watermelon

Heavy Feeders Cabbage Lettuce Onions

Potatoes Tomatoes

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically10

Table 7. Vegetable hardiness and days to maturity

Vegetable Days to Maturity*

Cultivars** Planting Dates Seeds or Plants/100 ft.

Spacing Rows/Plants

Depth to Plant***Spring Fall

asparagus 2nd year Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Mary Washington, Purple Pas-sion

January 15 - March 15

November & December

50 roots 36" x 18-24" 6"

beans, bush 50 - 60 Bronco, Blue Lake 274, Half-Run-ners (State, White, Volunteer) Kentucky Runner, Roma

March 15 - May 1 July 5 - August 10

½ pound 36” x 2-4” 1” – 11 ½”

beans, pole 65 - 75 Blue Lake, Dade, Kentucky Blue, Moccasian

March 15 - May 10

July 1 - August 1 ½ pound 36” x 4-12” 1” - 1 ½”

beans, lima 65 - 75 Henderson’s Bush Fordhook 242, Jackson Wonder (Speckled)

March 15 - June 1 July 1 - August 1 ½ pound 36” x 3-4” 1” - 1 ½”

beans, pole lima

80 - 85 Sieva, Florida Speckled March 15 - June 1 July 1 - August 1 ½ pound 36” x 6-8” 1” - 1 ½”

beets 55 - 65 Detroit Dark Red, Red Ace, Ruby Queen

February 15 – April 1

August 1 – Sept. 20

1 ounce 18-36” x 2” ½ ‘

broccoli 60 - 80 Marathon, Packman, Patriot, Premium Crop, Bravo, Deca-thion

February 15 - March 15

August 1 - Sept. 1

100 plants 36" x 12" --------------

butterpea 70 Dixie April 1 – May 1 July 1 – August 1 ½ pound 36” x 3-4” 1” – 1 ½”

cabbage 70 - 120 A&C No. 5+, Blue Dynasty, Bravo, Early Round Dutch, Rio Verde, Green Jewel

January 15 – March 15

August 1 – Octo-ber 1

100 plants 36” x 12” --------------

cantaloupe 80 - 90 Ambrosia, Athena, Saticoy Early, Sweet

March 20 - June 20

----------------------- 1 ounce 60" x 36" 1"

carrot 70 – 95 Chantenay, Scarlet Nantes, Sweetbites, Sweet Delight, Thumbelina (small)

January 15 - March 20

August 20 - Sept. 15

½ ounce 18-36" x 2-3" ¼”

cauliflower 60 - 75 Absolute, Early Snowball, Graffiti (purple color), White Magic, Symphony

March 1 - April 1 July 15 - August 15

100 plants 36" x 12" --------------

collards 55 - 85 Blue Max, Georgia Southern, Hevi-Crop

February 1 - March 15

August 1 - Sept. 1

½ ounce 36" x 8-16” ½”

corn, yellow 65-90 Bodacious, Golden Queen, Honey Select, Mirai 131, Seneca

March 15 – June 1

----------------------- ¼ pound 36” x 12-18” 1” - 1½”

corn, white 65-90 Avalon, How Sweet It Is, Seneca Sensation, Silver King, Silver Princess, Silver Queen

March 15 – June 1

----------------------- ¼ pound 36” x 12-18” 1” - 1½”

corn, bi-color 65-90 Ambrosia, Butter & Sugar, Hon-ey ‘n Pearl, Mirai 301, Peaches & Cream, Serendipity, Sweet Breed Chorus

March 15 – June 1

----------------------- ¼ pound 36” x 12-18” 1” - 1½”

cucumber, slicing

50-65 Bush – Salad Bush Hybrid, Bush Crop, Fanfare

April 1 – May 15 July 15 – August 15

1 ounce 60” x 12” ½” – ¾”

cucumber, pickling

50-65 Vine – Burpless Hybrid, Diva, Marketmore, Straight Eight, Sweet Slice, Sweet Success

April 1 – May 15 July 15 – August 15

1 ounce 60” x 12” ½” – ¾”

cucumber, gynoecious

50-65 Bush Pickle, Calypso, County FairCalypso, General Lee

April 1 – May 15 July 15 – August 15

1 ounce 60” x 12” ½” – ¾”

eggplant 75 – 90 Black Beauty, Classic, Dusky, Ghost Buster’s (white), Calliope

April 1 – May 15 July 10 – July 30 50 plants 36” x 24” --------------

kale 50 – 70 Vates, Dwarf Siberian, Blue Armor, Blue Knight

February 1 – March 10

August 1 – Sep-tember 1

½ ounce 36” x 8-16” ½”

lettuce 60 - 85 Butterhead, Romaine, Butter-crunch

January 15 - March 1

Sept. 1 - Octo-ber 1

¼ ounce 18-36" x 8-12" 1/8”

mustard 40 – 50 Florida Broadleaf, Southern Gi-ant Curled, Red Giant, Savan-nah

January 15 – April 1

August 15 – Sept. 15

½ ounce 18-36” x 2” ½”

okra 55 - 65 Annie Oakley II, Burgundy, Ca-jun Delight, Clemson Spineless

April 1 - June 1 June 15 - July 10 1 ounce 36" x 12" 1”

UGA Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1011 • Growing Vegetables Organically 11

Vegetable Days to Maturity*

Cultivars** Planting Dates Seeds or Plants/100 ft.

Spacing Rows/Plants

Depth to Plant***Spring Fall

onion, green 60 - 90 White Portugal January 1 - March 15

Sept. 1 - De-cember 31

300 plants 18-36” x 3” --------------

onion, dry bulb 100 - 120 Burgundy, Excel, Grano, Red Creole, Savannah Sweet

January 1 - March 15

October 10 - Nov. 10

300 plants 18-36” x 3-4” --------------

peas, garden (English)

60 - 70 Lincoln, Jackson Wonder, Wando, Little Marvel, Green Arrow, Maestro

January 15 - Feb. 15

----------------------- 1 pound 36” x 2” 1” - 2”

peas, edible pod

60 - 70 Sugar Daddy, Snow Pea, Sugar Snap

January 15 - Feb. 15

----------------------- 1 pound 36” x 2” 1” - 2”

peas, Southern 60 - 70 Blackeyed - California #5, Pinkeyed - Purple Hull FVR, Cream Pea - Texas Cr´eme, Crowder Pea - Mississippi Silver, Zipper Cream

April - August 10 ----------------------- ½ pound 36” x 3-4” 1” - 2”

pepper, bell 65 - 80 Big Bertha, Camelot x3a, Colos-sal, Karma

April 1 - June 1 July 25 - August 10

50 plants 36” x 24” --------------

pepper, hot 65 - 95 Habeñero, Jalepeno, Tula, Marbles

April 1 - June 1 ----------------------- 50 plants 36” x 24” 4” - 5”

pepper, hot-sweet

65 - 95 Banana Supreme, Kuberille, Sweet Banana)

April 1 - June 1 ----------------------- 50 plants 36” x 24” --------------

potatoes, Irish 70 - 90 Red (Pontiac), White (Kenne-bac, Atlantic, Yukon Gold)

January 15 - March 1

----------------------- 12 pounds 36” x 12” 4” - 5”

potatoes, sweet

90 - 120 Centennial, Georgia Red, Giant Jet, Hernandes, Red Jewel

April 15 - June 15 ----------------------- 100 plants 36” x 12” --------------

pumpkin, tiny 85 - 120 Little Ironsides May 15 – July 1 (depending on maturity date)

----------------------- 1 ounce 72” x 48” 1”

pumpkin, pie type

85 - 120 Small Sugar, Sugar Baby, Touch of Autumn

May 15 – July 1 (depending on maturity date

----------------------- 1 ounce 72” x 48” 1”

pumpkin, small 85 - 120 Autumn Gold, Jack O Lantern, Jack of All Trades

May 15 – July 1 (depending on maturity date

----------------------- 1 ounce 72” x 48” 1”

pumpkin, large 85 - 120 Aladdin, Gold Rush, Major Lan-tern, Merlin

May 15 – July 1 (depending on maturity date

----------------------- 1 ounce 72” x 48” 1”

pumpkin, giant 85 - 120 Dill’s Atlantic, Giant, Prize Win-ner

May 15 – July 1 (depending on maturity date

----------------------- 1 ounce 72” x 48” 1”

radish 25 – 30 Cherry Bell, Scarlet Globe, Champion

January 15 – April 1

Sept. 1 – Octo-ber 15

1 ounce 24” x 1” ½”

spinach 40 - 45 Melody, Winter Bloomsdale, Hybrid #7

January 15 - March 15

Sept. 1 - Octo-ber 15

1 ounce 18-36" x 2" ½” – ¾”

squash, sum-mer (zucchini)

40 - 55 Any yellow or green—all are good and easy to grow. Use compact varieties for limited space gardens

April 1 - May 15 August 1 - Au-gust 25

½ ounce 36” x 24” 1” - 2”

squash, winter 85 - 120 Acorn, Buttercup Bonbon, But-ternut

April 1 - July 1 ----------------------- ½ ounce 60” x 36” 1” - 2”

tomato, deter-minate

70-90 Bush - Celebrity, Early GirlBHN 444, BHN 640, Celebrity, Mountain

March 25 – May 1 June 15 – July 15 50 plants 48” x 24” --------------

tomato, inde-terminate

70-90 Fresh, Mountain Spring, Rutgers, Amelia, Mountain Pride

March 25 – May 1 June 15 – July 15 50 plants 48” x 24” --------------

tomato, cherry 70-90 Early Girl, Better Boy, Big Beef, Big Boy, Beefmaster

March 25 – May 1 June 15 – July 15 50 plants 48” x 24” --------------

tomato, grape 70-90 Jolly, Sweet Baby Girl, Super Sweet 100, Grape, Juliet

March 25 – May 1 June 15 – July 15 50 plants 48” x 24” --------------

Vegetable Days to Maturity*

Cultivars** Planting Dates Seeds or Plants/100 ft.

Spacing Rows/Plants

Depth to Plant***Spring Fall

turnip 40 – 60 Purple Top, Royal Crown January 15 – April 1

August 10 – Sept. 15

½ ounce 18-36” x 2” ½”

watermelon – large

80 - 90 Mardi Gras, Royal Majesty, Sangria

March 20 - May 1 ----------------------- 1 ounce 72” x 36-48” 1” - 2”

watermelon – round

80 - 90 Baby Doll, Crimson Sweet, Ice Box, Imagination, Jade Star

March 20 - May 1 ----------------------- 1 ounce 72” x 36-48” 1” - 2”

watermelon – small

80 - 90 Palm Melon, Solitaire March 20 - May 1 ----------------------- 1 ounce 72” x 36-48” 1” - 2”

*Days to maturity are from planting seed or setting transplants in the garden. The number of days will vary depending on cultivar (some mature earlier than oth-ers) temperature and general growing conditions. Check catalogues for individual maturity time.**Cultivars listed in the chard represent a few of those recommended. There are many other good cultivars worthy of trial.***Plant shallowly in heavy (clay) soil when adequate moisture is present.

Bulletin 1011 Revised April 2017Published by the University of Georgia in cooperation with Fort Valley State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and counties of the state. For more information, contact your local UGA Cooperative Extension office.

The University of Georgia is committed to principles of equal opportunity and affirmative action.

extension.uga.edu

Table 8. Vegetable hardiness and days to maturity

Materials

Percent1

AvailabilityN P2O5 K2OBone meal 0.7 – 4 18 – 24 0 Slow/medium

Compost 1.5 – 3.5 0.5 – 1 1 – 2 Slow

Cottonseed meal (dry) 6 2.5 1.7 Slow/medium

Blood meal 12 1.5 0.6 Medium rapid

Fertrell Blue Label 1 1 1 Slow

Fertrell Gold Label 2 2 2 Slow

Fertrell Super 3 2 3 Slow

Fish meal 10 4 0 Slow/medium

Guano 6 – 12 9 – 11 2 – 3 Medium

Chilean nitrate 15 0 0 Rapid

Green sand 0 0 3 Slow

Kelp

Fresh manures

Cattle <1 <1 <1 Medium

Horse <1 <1 <1 Medium

Poultry 3 – 4 1 – 3 1 – 2 Medium/rapid

Mushroom compost 0.5 – 1 <1 0.5 – 1.5 Slow

Peat 1 – 2 <1 1 Very slow

Soybean meal 6 – 7 2 2 Slow/medium

Wood ashes 0 1 – 2 3 – 7 Rapid1The percentage of plant nutrients is highly variable; with some materials, average percentages are listed.

For healthy, aesthetic plants, the soilmust serve as a reservoir for water, oxygen,and nutrients. While this sounds verystraightforward, providing these threeessentials can be quite challenging. Thefirst step in evaluating a soil for beddingplants is to examine water retention andaeration characteristics. Both water andoxygen are required for plant growth, thechallenge is maintaining a proper balancebetween the two.

Soil TextureSoil consists of solid particles (sand,

silt and clay) and pores (spaces for air andwater). Coarse-textured soils (sandy) havegood drainage and plenty of oxygen butretain little water. The opposite is true forfine-textured soils (clay) where drainageand aeration are poor, but water is plentiful.The texture will determine whethermaintaining water or oxygen will be yourbiggest problem. In clay soils, providingenough aeration will be your biggestconcern. On the other hand, maintainingenough water will be your biggestchallenge for sandy soils.

Soil AmendmentsBoth of these problems can be

improved by amending the soil. Properlyamended clay soils will have adequatedrainage to supply both water and oxygen.The best amendments for clay soils arepine bark humus (< 1/2" in diameter),

composted leaf mold, or small pea gravel(< 3/8"). Be careful when selecting leafmold, and make certain that the materialis fully composted and not merely “aged.”Decomposing materials will compete withplants for nutrients, especially nitrogenand sulfur, resulting in nutrientdeficiencies and poor plant growth.

Peat moss, sand, hardwood bark,sawdust, wood chips and pine straw arenot recommended for clay soils. Additionof these materials will not adequatelyimprove the physical properties of a claysoil. Amendments to clay soils must beincorporated to at least 25% by volume tobe effective. For example, to result inapproximately 8 inches of amended soil,a minimum of 2 inches of the amendmentshould be incorporated into the top 6inches of soil. This also helps raise thebed which will not only improve drainagebut will also make bedding plants lookmore attractive. Incorporating up to 50%by volume will probably improve plantgrowth. Incorporating over 50% mayhave a negative effect on plant growth,while incorporating less than 25% byvolume is a waste of time and material.

Amendments such as pine barkhumus, composted leaf mold, or peatmoss will improve water retention insandy soils. Similar to clay soils, theseamendments need to be added at aminimum of 25% by volume and amaximum of 50%.

Horticulture Information Leaflet 551Revised 8/99 -- Author Reviewed 8/99

Douglas A. Bailey, Stuart L. Warren, andWilliam C. Fonteno, Professors

Distributed in furtheranceof the Acts of Congress

of May 8 and June 30, 1914.Employment and program

opportunities are offered toall people regardless of

race, color, national origin,sex, age, or handicap.

North Carolina State University,North Carolina A&T State

University, U.S. Departmentof Agriculture, and local

governments cooperating.

College of Agriculture & Life SciencesDepartment of Horticultural Science

NC STATE UNIVERSITY

Bed Preparation and FertilizationRecommendations for Bedding Plants in the

Landscape

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Water Infiltration and IrrigationCalculations

Infiltration is the rate of water movementinto the soil. Typical infiltration rates for foursoil types are listed in Table 1. This table providesa rough idea of the rate you can use for yourirrigation system before water begins to run offinstead of being absorbed by the soil. These ratesshould not be exceeded as the extra water drainsoff and is wasted. Clay soils have infiltrationrates that are 4 to 20 times slower than sands. Ofcourse, this will change after amendment, but asandy soil will always have a higher rate ofinfiltration compared to clay.

A second important issue concerningirrigation is how long it takes for the water todrain from the soil, allowing oxygen to return.Without adequate drainage between irrigations,there will be little oxygen in the soil. A clay soilwill take longer to drain and re-aerate than asandy soil. Bedding plants grown in a clay soilthat has been properly watered may not have tobe watered more than once a week. This will varywith time of year, sun or shade, plant growth, andother environmental factors. However, beddingplants grown in a sandy soil may have to bewatered 2 to 3 times a week. Subsoil compactionor the presence of a hard pan beneath the bed canalso affect water drainage and soil aeration. Itmay be necessary to deep till beds to break up thesubsoil and increase drainage rate.

Bedding Plant NutritionCompared to woody plants, bedding plants

have very limited root systems so it is critical thatnutrients (excluding nitrogen) be distributeduniformly throughout the soil. This requiresplanning prior to bed preparation to determinewhat nutrients are needed and in what quantity.

A soil test is the only way to determine ifphosphorus, potassium, calcium, or magnesiummust be added or if a pH adjustment is needed.Without a soil test, any application of fertilizercould be detrimental to the landscape.Overapplication or application of unneeded

materials could result in salt injury to plants,cause nutrient imbalances unsuitable for plantgrowth, and is environmentally unsound. Contactyour county extension agent for soil samplingboxes and proper sampling procedures. Soilsamples should be taken after amendments toimprove aeration and/or drainage have beenincorporated into the beds. If test results indicatenutrient or pH adjustments are needed, followthe application recommendations given below.

Phosphorus and calcium move very slowlythrough the soil profile so to be most effectivethey should be incorporated into the top 6 to 10inches. These elements can be surface appliedbut the nutrients will not be as readily available tothe plants and will be less effective. It is impossibleto tell how much calcium and phosphorus arerequired without a soil test. However, becausemost North Carolina soils are low in phosphorus,it is usually safe to add 1 to 2 lbs of P

2O

5 per 1000

ft2. For soil incorporation of phosphorus, triplesuperphosphate (0-46-0) is recommended. For 1to 2 lbs of P

2O

5, incorporate 2 to 4 lbs of triple

superphosphate per 1000 ft2 of bed area.Diammonium phosphate (18-46-0 or 16-48-0) isthe most soluble phosphorus source and shouldbe used if phosphorus is applied to the surface.For 1 to 2 lbs P

2O

5, apply 2 to 4 lbs of diammonium

phosphate per 1000 ft2 of bed area. This will alsosupply 0.4 to 0.8 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 ft2.

Guessing at the amount of calcium to applywithout a soil test is inadvisable, for two reasons.First, it is possible to get too much calcium in thesoil which can lead to potassium and magnesiumdeficiency, and second, many sources of calcium

Table 1. Typical infiltration rates for 4common soil types.

Soil typeInfiltration rate(inches/hour)

Sands > 0.8

Sandy & silty soils 0.4 to 0.8

Loams 0.2 to 0.4

Clay soils 0.04 to 0.2

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such as calcitic and dolomitic limestone raise soilpH. A high pH can cause many other problemssuch as making some nutrients unavailable toplants. If calcium is low but a pH change isundesirable, gypsum (CaSO

4·2H

2O) can be

incorporated into the soil prior to planting. A soiltest is the best way to make fertilizer applicationsmost cost-efficient.

Magnesium may be deficient, especially inlow pH soils. If magnesium levels and soil pH arelow, dolomitic limestone can be used to raise thepH and supply the needed magnesium. To addmagnesium without affecting the pH, Epsomsalts (MgSO

4·7H

2O) can be applied, either as a

soil incorporation or as a soil drench. A soilincorporation of granular Epsom salts is themethod of choice for application during bedpreparation, while a soil drench with an Epsomsalt solution is used if magnesium is needed andplants are already in place. If magnesium isneeded, the general rate for Epsom salts is 10 lbsper 1000 ft2 of bed area for dry application or 4 lbsper 100 gallons of water for a soil drench appliedat 250 gallons per 1000 ft2 of bed area (1 quart persquare foot of bed area).

The soil pH for bedding plants should bebetween 5.5 and 6.5. An approximate pH can be

determined on site by using a portable pH meter.Mix one volume of soil with two volumes ofdistilled water, stir, allow to stand for 30 minutes,then read the pH. As with soil testing for fertilizerneeds, amendments to improve aeration and/ordrainage should be applied prior to testing soilpH. Table 2 presents some approximate amountsof ground limestone needed to increase the pH offive soil types. These values are onlyrepresentative and should not be taken asrecommendations. Limestone should beincorporated into the upper 7 inches of the bed foreffective pH adjustment. If the pH must belowered, elemental sulfur can be incorporatedinto the soil (Table 3). If only a small decrease inpH is required, acid-forming fertilizers such asammonium nitrate can be used as a nitrogensource (Table 4).

Potassium can be surface applied, if needed.If soil test results are not available, then a rule ofthumb is to apply 1 to 3 lbs K

2O per 1000 ft2.

However, it is possible to over apply potassiumwhich can lead to deficiencies of other nutrients,particularly magnesium. To apply 1 to 3 lbs K

2O,

use 1.7 to 5 lbs of muriate of potash (potassiumchloride), 2.3 to 6.8 lbs of potassium nitrate, or2.1 to 6.3 lbs of potassium sulfate per 1000 ft2.Muriate of potash has a salt index of 114 whichis very high and should be used with caution.

Table 2. Approximate amount of ground limestoneneeded to increase the pH of the upper 7 inches of 5soil types to 6.5.

pH Range

4.5to4.9

5.0to5.4

5.5to5.9

6.0to6.4

Soil texture(upper 7 inches)

Lime to apply(lbs/1000 square feet)

Sand 115 92 69 23

Loamy sand 138 115 92 46

Sandy loam 184 138 115 69

Clay loam and loam 230 184 138 92

Clay and silty clay 270 230 184 92

Lime recommendations are based on using a groundlimestone with a neutralizing value of 90%.

Table 3. Approximate amount of ground sulfurneeded to decrease the pH of the soil to 6.5.

Soil texture

pH Range

7.0to7.5

7.6to8.0

8.1to8.5

8.6to9.0

Sulfur to apply(lb/1000 square feet)

Sandy soils 9–13 22–34 34–45 45–68

Clay soils 18–22 34–45 34–45 ---

Sulfur recommendations are based on using a groundsulfur material containing 95% S.

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Both potassium nitrate and potassium sulfatehave a lower salt index, indicating that they areless likely to increase soil salt levels. Thepotassium nitrate at this rate will also supply 0.3to 0.9 lbs N per 1000 ft2.

Nitrogen is the nutrient that most frequentlylimits plant growth, and is often the onlynutritional element that accelerates the growth ofornamental plants. Unfortunately, nitrogen isalso the most difficult nutrient to manage. Unlikeother nutrients, it is not possible to accuratelydetermine from a soil test how much nitrogen isrequired. The challenge is to maintain adequatenitrogen levels to meet the plant requirementswithout damaging the plants. Surface applicationis not only the most cost effective method ofnitrogen application but it is also the mostefficient in getting the nutrient into the plant.

Nitrogen can be supplied with two differentapproaches and both work very well. Nitrogencan be applied in a ① water soluble form whichincludes liquid feed and granular fertilizers (Table4) or ② slow release forms. If using a watersoluble fertilizer, apply it every 4 to 8 weeksthroughout the bedding plant season, applying atotal of no more than 4 to 6 lbs N per 1000 ft2

during the growing season. If using liquid feed,apply every 1 to 4 weeks, using 1 quart per ft2 ofbed area. With slow release fertilizers,applications should be divided into twoapplications. The first application should beincorporated into the bed just before planting andthe second should be broadcast over the bedmidway through the growing season. If using aslow release fertilizer as a nitrogen source thatcontains P and K as well, additional applicationof P and K may not be needed. The seasonal totalapplication of slow release fertilizer should notexceed 4 to 6 lbs N per 1000 ft2 of bed area.

In summary, preparing and managinglandscape beds for bedding plant use can bebroken down into the following steps:❶ Determine the soil texture.❷ Determine the amendment needs and addamendments, if needed for drainage and aeration.❸ Take a soil test to determine soil nutrient andpH needs after adding drainage and aerationamendments.❹ Incorporate recommended fertilizer and/orliming material.❺ Manage water and nitrogen during thegrowing season.

Table 4. Suggested nitrogen sources, application methods, intervals between applications and application rates forbedding plants in the landscape.

Nitrogen sourceEffect onsoil pH

Applied as a dry material broadcastuniformly over the bed surface

Applied as a liquid feed using 1 quart persquare foot of bed area at each application

Weeks between applications(number of applications per season)

Weeks between applications(number of applications per season)

4 wks(5 apps.)

6 wks(3 apps.)

8 wks(2 apps.)

1 wk(18 apps.)

2 wks(9 apps.)

4 wks(5 apps.)

lbs/1000 sq.ft. to apply at each app. lbs/100 gallons of solution

Ammonium nitrate(33.5-0-0)

moderatelyacidic

2 lbs 6 oz 4 lbs 6 lbs 4.5 oz 9 oz 1 lb

Ammonium sulfate(20-0-0)

very acidic 4 lbs 6 lbs 11 oz 10 lbs 7 oz 14 oz 1 lb 10 oz

Calcium nitrate(15.5-0-0)

moderatelybasic

5 lbs 3 oz 8 lbs 10 oz 12 lbs 14 oz 9 oz 1 lb 2 oz 2 lbs 1 oz

Potassium nitrate(13-0-44)

slightlybasic

6 lbs 2 oz 10 lbs 4 oz 15 lbs 6 oz 11 oz 1 lb 6 oz 2 lbs 7 oz

Nitrogen recommendations are based on delivering a seasonal total of approximately 4 lbs N/1000 sq. ft. of bed area.