Winter 2019Issue 38

Conquering the world

with the BFA

Footwear Designer Charlotte Olympia Dellal with the Master at the Tower of London

Footwear guests at the TowerIn late September the Master hosted a court supper at the Tower of London with a glittering group of industry figures, followed by a damp but entertaining viewing of the Ceremony of the Keys.

the Master’s Column

Tradesmen’s tokensCordwainer tradesmen’s tokens were issued for use by the public, who, in the latter part of the 17th Century, had no convenient small change to use. In all, there were probably about 20,000 different pieces issued in England, Wales, and Ireland. Scotland had its own currency prior to the Union, under Queen Anne. The Royal Farthing Tokens, issued under licence during the reigns of James I and Charles I by various lords, including Harington, Richmond and Maltravers, were disliked and distrusted, only for the issuers to effectively demonetise them and then issue a new series.

Following Charles I’s beheading in 1649, neither tradesmen nor the public had anything except silver half-pennies and a few three-farthing pieces

(from Elizabeth I’s reign) to use as small change. Working together with the now idle mint craftsmen, the traders had their own issues manufactured. Whilst not all are dated, the earliest date noted is 1648. Originally just initialled, (often using those of both husband and wife) the tokens came to include full names and trades as public confidence in them grew. The series grew exponentially until they were outlawed in 1672, when the first currency copper farthing was issued, bearing the bust of Charles II. Many continued to be used after this, though in more remote regions. Pictured: Mrs Lesley Shaw presents Cordwainer tokens to Past Master Jonathan Hooper

Our News

NewsThe

Past Master Oliver Chamberlain and Marilyn Redgrave

What are the special qualities required for the role of Assistant Clerk of the Cordwainers? The answer is encapsulated in one word: Sue!

Sue Cummings knows everyone in the Company, from the newest freemen, who she guides through the admission process, to the most distinguished Court members in search of committee papers. Discreet and super-organised, Sue bungles nothing, quietly, quickly and effectively getting things done. While the rest of the world often asks Alexa, the Cordwainers have Sue, the ultimate repository of knowledge about every aspect of Cordwainer lore and tradition.

With her persuasive charm and great good humour, Sue has quite simply played a huge part in keeping the Company moving forward, so let’s raise our glasses to ten years of loyal service. Cheers and thanks to Sue.

Liveryman John Miller

Staff newsWe have recently welcomed two new part-time members of staff. Wendy Pengelly has joined as Company Accountant and will be carrying out book-keeping and producing management accounts in-house. Katie Penney has taken over from Marilyn Redgrave as Administrator and Events Co-ordinator. Please do come and introduce yourselves, next time you are at Clothworkers’ Hall.

Being Master of the Cordwainers is a job like no other and it is a great privilege to represent the Company within the City and at events with our charitable, industry and education partners.

The participation of Company members is at the heart of what we do and 2020 will see the launch of a new online admin system. The long-awaited database of faces and names of all members will be available via the secure section of our website and bookings for events will be carried out online. We hope that this innovation will make the whole process easier for everyone.

Where is the Company Vision? Now the Governance Review is complete, and the structure of the Company decided, we can take forward the work of the 2030 Vision committee in conjunction with the new management structure so that we have an aligned strategy and vision to last us for the next ten years.

At Oath Day I talked about moving the Company closer to the footwear industry to ensure that Cordwainers not only remain relevant but also continue to actively support education and entrepreneurship. I am delighted to announce the introduction of Craft Freemen, a level of Company membership that will be offered to our award winners and key graduates or industry professionals for a maximum of five years. We hope that Cordwainers will be able to learn more about the business of shoemaking and enable the Company to target its support for footwear entrepreneurs and students more effectively. Although Craft Freedom will involve no long-term obligations on either side, it will allow the Company to engage with a wider range of industry people, with a view to many or all of them becoming full freemen in due course.

Finally, in order to do our bit for the planet and to save some money that could, instead, be put towards our charitable giving, we will not be sending out Christmas cards this year. However, I wish you and your families all a very merry Christmas and a peaceful new year.

Nigel Easton

Assistant Clerk Sue Cummings celebrates ten years at Cordwainers

The Master and family

Wendy Pengelly

However, although I have enjoyed some wonderful events, Company administration has been a theme this autumn. Past Master Oliver Chamberlain’s Governance Review has been approved by the Court and it is hoped that the recommendations will be implemented by the start of the next Master’s year. They will modernise the structure of the Company and introduce a more streamlined management and committee system. It’s partly about sharing the burden of management more widely among what is, in effect, a volunteer body, and ensuring that our business committees are peopled with well qualified members of the Company; it should also provide future Masters with more time to concentrate on representative duties. You can find the paper and proposed new management structure on the Members’ section of the website.

The Master was supported by 11 Past Masters, several Court Assistants and other Liverymen in welcoming luminaries of footwear design and manufacture including James Dukker of Carréducker; Adele Clarke, Olivia Morris and Tracey Neuls; last-maker Michael James of Springline Ltd; Cordwainer award winners Helen Kirkum and Claire Burrows; and designer Charlotte Olympia Dellal. No doubt the Master felt at home, as the Tower is the regimental home of the Fusiliers and he shared his knowledge of the regiment’s history and the memorabilia displayed in the Mess Room most entertainingly.

Liveryman Katie Greenyer replied on behalf of the guests in a very positive and inspiring way (despite having flown in from the States that morning and having had her laptop with her speech on stolen!) She reminded everyone that Cordwainers can be the thread that stitches together the needs of the footwear industry, with the rising talent emerging from our universities.

The evening was also an opportunity to bid a fond farewell to Marilyn Redgrave, who has recently retired from ‘active service’ with the Cordwainers. Her cheery efficiency will be much missed by Cordwainers and the office team alike. Court Assistant John Peal

Katie Penney

2 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 3

Treasures AfootPast Warden Caroline Squire discovers more about the work of Cordwainers in 18th century London.

Although it might be considered a cliché, many Cordwainers might believe that one’s choice in shoes can reveal a lot about the wearer. This message is reinforced in Kimberly Alexander’s Treasures Afoot – Shoe Stories from the Georgian Era.

Her academic and meticulously researched tome, illustrated with wonderful colour pictures, maps and stories, sets out how shoes were made, sold and worn during the 18th century. It is a journey that takes us from the Ward of Cordwainer in London, to the shops of colonial New England in the years before the War of Independence. Inevitably, politics are not too far away: Master Cordwainer John Hose made a personal plea to Parliament alongside Benjamin Franklin regarding the dismal effects of the Stamp Act on his Cheapside business.

The book reflects on the precarious nature of a cordwainer’s livelihood and follows the rise and fall of John Hose’s business (Hose was Master Cordwainer 1760). Like many craftsmen, Hose’s business increasingly relied on international trade, with raw materials sourced in Europe and the East, and many of his finely crafted shoes exported to the colonies of North America, where they were highly prized. As relations between Britain and America declined, so too did Hose’s trade, his workforce shrinking from 300 to just 40.

If I had wondered why our esteemed editor had asked me to review this book, all became clear only 17 pages in, with the mention of my ancestor William Chamberlain, a former apprentice to the Hose family and shop owner in Cheapside.

The Cordwainers were upheld as the kitemark of excellence and were hugely influential in the fledgling American footwear industry. While the guild system never took hold in the colonies, Kimberly argues that the Cordwainers probably

came the closest – the New Hampshire branch was permitted some jurisdiction over quality control and the system of apprenticeships imported from England remained strong.

Packed with interesting footwear facts, (a good apprentice made 286 pairs of shoes a year), and. beautiful pictures, Treasures Afoot shows how the shoe trade reflected the wider political relationship between Britain and the American colonies. More importantly, it elevates the importance of footwear and shows that shoes mean so much more than simply what we put on our feet.

Treasures Afoot – Shoe stories from the Georgian Era Kimberly S Alexander John Hopkins University Press. 248 pages. £29.50 (Amazon)

As the Cordwainers work to become an even stronger catalyst between footwear education and the footwear industry, we examine the Company’s relationship with the British Footwear Association (BFA), the institution that promotes and supports footwear businesses across the UK.

the cordwainer the cordwainer

Conqueringthe world:

working with the

The BFA was founded in 1898 as the Federated Associations of Boot and Shoe Manufacturers of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, amalgamating numerous smaller local bodies which had arisen in response to the organisation of the workers into unions. Early records note discussions about trade volumes, exports, training and working conditions – all matters which preoccupy the BFA today.

Senior Warden and Chairman of Start-Rite Shoes, Peter Lamble, takes up the story.

‘As the employers’ representative body, you could say that the (thankfully) renamed British Footwear Manufacturers’ Association took on the role previously held by trade guilds, adapted for an era of mass production and employment. Wages and conditions were negotiated nationally, and I believe the Northampton factories still use that mechanism.

‘With the decline in manufacturing and employment, the BFA has widened both its membership, to include brands, retailers and importers, and the services it offers. It has for many years helped companies with overseas exhibitions, and although the funding for this has dried up, it still provides logistics and

advice. It also offers third party services on a collective basis, freight being a good example.

‘The newest area of work for the BFA is training, and this is where the link with the Cordwainers is strongest and could be developed further. The Company is in a unique position to help match courses, students, companies and colleges.’

Recently appointed chief executive, Lucy Reece-Raybould brings a new energy to the role and is determined to ‘put footwear back on the map of Britain, using the “British” brand as a marque to be proud of’. In her speech to the Livery Dinner in October she said, ‘It is the duty of the BFA and everyone in the industry to make sure we share our footwear passion with the next generation and the world at large. We want “Gen Alpha” [those born since 2011] to see working in footwear as an aspirational career.’

She went on to say, ‘I have been overwhelmed by the welcome I have received from the industry and moving from a background in jewellery to footwear has changed my life. Having spent 30 years squinting at people’s wrists to read their watch brand, I now stare at their feet.’

Lucy is determined to work closely with the Company so that together we can improve footwear training and education in the UK.

‘I am really looking forward to working with the Cordwainers, who are probably more relevant to the shoe trade now than they were 100 years ago. The Company’s support for young people is second to none and is highly valued within the industry. The Cordwainer Award for Innovation, presented at the Footwear Friends Awards, is not only a prestigious prize, but one that makes a tangible difference to the winner, bringing with it financial support, invaluable mentoring and contacts from the industry.

‘It is my intention to work very closely with Cordwainers so that the BFA can provide a clear view of what industry needs in terms of development, be that through education, apprenticeships or wider industry-specific opportunities.

‘By working together to educate and train future generations we can ensure the public get to value the skills and workmanship which the footwear industry offers.

‘In my previous life in the jewellery business, we lived by Marilyn Monroe’s mantra that “diamonds are a girl’s best friend”, but she also remarked that if you “give a girl the right shoes, she can conquer the world”. I hope that together the BFA and the Cordwainers can provide opportunities for young footwear designers and shoemakers, who can go on to conquer the international world of footwear.’

BFALucy Reece-Raybould

Kettering factory 1910. (Courtesy Northampton Museum and Art Gallery)

‘I am really looking forward to working with the Cordwainers, who are probably more relevant to the shoe trade now than they were 100 years ago.’

Lucy Reece-Raybould

4 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 5 4 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 5

Our Charities

CharitiesOur

Tell us about bespoke shoemaking

Bespoke shoemaking really is a skilled and intricate business that involves a number of craftsmen. When a customer comes in for their first pair of bespoke shoes, last-makers will take measurements and make the lasts. The rough stuff cutter prepares all the leather for the shoemaker. Then you have closers and makers: closers do the uppers, then the maker puts it all together. The clicker’s role is similar to the rough stuff cutter, but more involved. Clickers order the upper leather. We use lots of different types of leather, including crocodile, horse leather and ostrich. Finally, the tree makers skilfully craft the wooden shoe and boot trees.

John Lobb has survived the test of time why do you think this is?

Believe it or not, in the past there were more shoemakers in London than any other trade, other than builders, so John Lobb’s survival is a great achievement. We are passing down generations of experience and as a result have very talented craftsmen working at the company. We have really stuck to doing things in old traditional ways, which has been a very important factor to our success, when many others have gone out of business.

How and when did you come to be a Cordwainer?

I became a Cordwainer in 2018. I was introduced to the idea of livery companies by a leather supplier who was a past master of the Leathersellers’ Company. Joining the Cordwainers was the obvious choice, not only because of the trade I am in, but also because the Cordwainers are such an active livery company and increasingly involved in the shoe industry.

Tell us about your favourite shoes

I actually need a new pair of shoes, but my favourites at the moment are a pair of Oxford caps and elastic sided ones (both John Lobb). Otherwise, I have a pair of trainers which I use for the gym.

If you were master for one day, from your shoe industry perspective, what would you introduce?

It would be great to make sure that every member has a good understanding of how shoes are made – real, proper hand-made ones. I would like everyone to understand the work that goes into making bespoke shoes. When you consider that each pair of shoes costs a customer £4,500-plus, it is a serious investment, but it reflects the level of care and craftsmanship involved.

What do you think people want today when it comes to footwear and how are you addressing these needs?

Our customers are often introduced by a friend and finally decide that they have enough money to treat themselves to a bespoke pair of shoes. They are looking for heritage and history, following in famous people’s footsteps. They want real quality and classic styles – Oxford caps are the most popular as they are a smart and comfortable shoe. Ultimately, customers want shoes that are comfortable, look great, and made to last – in my opinion it is what people want now and have always wanted.

Of all the famous people that have been known to wear your shoes who was your favourite and why?

We have a policy not to name existing customers, but over the years Frank Sinatra would be one as he is so universally popular. I am particularly proud of our royal warrants for the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh. The monarchy is really good at actively supporting the industry, which helps ensure the survival of these crucial skills.

Liveryman Ana Williams

in my shoes

shoesin my

Director of John Lobb Ltd, Freeman William Lobb is the fifth generation to work in the family business, having joined in 1990. His father is chairman and William runs the business, one of the most distinguished bespoke shoemaking companies in the UK, alongside his two younger brothers. Like his father, William is a last-maker and still works day-to-day on making shoes; he feels it is vital to keep skills alive and to pass them on to future generations.

Was joining the family firm something you actively wanted to do, or was it thrust upon you?

After taking a degree in maths and statistics, I travelled for a bit to consider my options, then decided to try out working for the family business. Thankfully, I never felt forced or pressured to go into the business and actually left the company briefly. I have always liked working with my hands and did a bit of carpentry which I was reasonably good at, so shoe making seemed like something I would enjoy. Also, I grew up seeing my father make shoes, so it came naturally.

Two members of the Company have already picked up the baton to raise funds for Harry’s Giant Pledge. Past Master James Calder took part in the Ride London cycle challenge and Freeman Major General Paul Nanson participated in the Trailwalker Challenge, completing the 100km course across the South Downs in 21 hours.

If like James and Paul, you have secured your own place in an upcoming challenge event and would like to raise funds for Harry’s Giant Pledge, please contact Nancy at charity@cordwainers.org.

Amazing achievements for the Alzheimer’s SocietyThe Cordwainers’ fundraising campaign for the Alzheimer’s Society in 2018-19 was a fantastic success with a final total of £50,500 raised.

Cordwainer members, their families and friends participated in and supported a wide variety of events in a bumper fundraising year including: the Ride London cycle challenge, the Livery Halls Walk, the Serpentine Swim, the Alzheimer’s Society’s Memory Walk, carol singing, pub quizzing, the London Marathon, a City of London walking tour and the Coast to Coast cycle challenge – phew! A huge thank you to all members of the Company who cycled, swam, sang, quizzed and donated to the campaign.

Nancy Treves, Charity Manager

Pledging to fight childhood cancerThe Cordwainers’ nominated charity for 2019-20 is the Royal Marsden Cancer Charity, and, specifically, our fundraising will go to Harry’s Giant Pledge, which was set up by Past Warden James Shaw and his family in memory of their son Harry.

Harry Shaw lost his 10-month battle against Ewing’s Sarcoma, a type of bone cancer, in June 2019. He was five, and a very tough and brave little boy.

James’s family set up Harry’s Giant Pledge just a few weeks before Harry died. At that point they knew Harry couldn’t be saved but were determined to do something to give the Harrys of the future a better chance.

All the money we raise will go directly to Harry’s Giant Pledge and we will be able to track our donation through the lifespan of the research project. We sincerely hope that it will contribute to improving the survivability rates for childhood cancer.

Over the coming months Cordwainers will be carol-singing, wine-tasting and undertaking a 15-mile sponsored walk in aid of this fantastic cause. We are proud to support Harry’s Giant Pledge and, encouraged by our friends and colleagues, hope we can make a significant contribution to the Royal Marsden’s valuable work.

Please support our campaign here: www.justgiving.com/fundraising/cordwainersforharry

The Cordwainer 7 6 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 7

Births Congratulations to Freeman Angus Francis Coleman and his wife Molly on the birth of their daughter Valerie Rose Francis Coleman on 4 September 2019.

MarriagesCongratulations to: Freeman Charley Peal who married Kylie Parr on 6 July 2019

Past Warden Sarah Blanford who married Finbar Cartlidge on 14 September 2019

Freeman Alice Peal who married Charlie Moorhouse on 5 October 2019.

ObituaryPast Master Sir Michael Uren 1923–2019The Company received with deep regret the news of the death of Past Master Sir Michael Uren who died on 9 August 2019 at the age of 95.

Mike became a Freeman of the Company in 1956 by Servitude. He was clothed with the Livery in May 1958 and served as Junior Warden in 1971–72. In 1984 he was appointed to the Court and served as Master in 1990-91.

Mike was an exceptional and imaginative businessman who brought the full force of his experience to bear on all his Cordwainer activities. Leadership, good humour and kindness all marked his year of office as Master.

He was a vital part of the four-man team who managed the successful construction of the student accommodation in Hackney in 1995-96. He used his considerable legal and financial business contacts to put in place an extremely favourable financial package and to create the Cordwainer Educational Trust. He then worked tirelessly with the team over a number of years redeveloping the Company’s Fleet Street properties. The Company’s prosperity owes him an enormous debt of gratitude.

Mike was educated at Sherborne School, going on to qualify as a Chartered Engineer at Imperial Collage, London. He served in the RNVR during the Second World War and, on being discharged in 1946, spent the next decade in professional practice. He founded Civil and Marine (Holdings) Ltd, which became the UK’s largest producer of blast furnace slag, recycled from the seabed of the North Sea to produce concrete.

Mike was regarded as one of the UK’s most generous philanthropists and the Michael Uren Foundation has distributed in excess of £90 million to a wide range of good causes. He was a long-serving trustee, chairman and benefactor of the Royal London Society for Blind (now the Royal Society for Blind Children), for which he was appointed OBE.

Mike was knighted in the 2016 New Year Honours in recognition of his philanthropic service. His sons David and Mark are both Liverymen of the Company.

Past Master Christopher King

The Clerk is delighted to hear from all Cordwainers. Please remember to tell the office about changes of address and your family news.

© 2019 The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers. The Cordwainer is published twice a year. Copies are retained at the Cordwainers’ office. Contact the editor via the Cordwainers’ office: office@cordwainers.org or telephone +44 (0) 20 7929 1121. The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, Clothworkers’ Hall, Dunster Court, Mincing Lane, London EC3R 7AH.

Notice Board

2020

07 Jan Tue 12th Night Court Dinner 18.00

14 Jan Tue Wine Committee 11.15

20 Jan Mon Cordwainers/Carpenters Bridge Competition TBA

5 Feb Wed

Freedom Committee Finance and Resources CommitteeMaster and Wardens MeetingCourtCourt Supper

12.0014.3016.3017.15

2 Mar Mon Events Committee 18.30

2 Mar Mon Inter Livery Bridge Competition (Drapers’ Hall) TBA

13 Mar Fri Civic Dinner (formerly Past Wardens’ Dinner) 18.30 B

27 Mar Fri United Guilds’ Service (St Paul’s Cathedral) 11.15

8 April Wed

Freedom Committee Charity Committee Master and Wardens Meeting Court Came’s, Minge’s and Shawe’s Anniversary Sermon - St Olave’s Apprentices Supper

10.30 13.00 15.00 15.30 17.15

18.30

E E

7 May Thu Royal Free London Nurses Awards (venue: Royal Free Hospital) 14.00 A

7 May ThuRoyal Free London Nurses and Midwives Trust General Meeting (venue: Royal Free Hospital)

16.00

13 May Wed Inter-Livery Clay Shooting Competition

14 May Thu Cordwainers Educational Trust (CET) business meeting 14.00

21 May Thu Inter-Livery Golf ‘Prince Arthur Cup’ (Walton Heath)

1 Jun Mon Events Committee 18.30

4 Jun Thu Cordwainers National Footwear Student Awards (Clothworkers’ Hall) A

5 Jun Fri Inter-Livery Rifle Competition (Bisley)

10 Jun Wed Cordwainers/Curriers Golf Day (Piltdown)

13 Jun Sat Inter-Livery Croquet

17 Jun Wed

Freedom Committee Finance & Resources Committee Court Election Day Common Hall Supper

12.00 14.30 16.30 18.00 19.00

B B

24 Jun Wed Election of Sheriffs (guildhall) 11.00

8 Jul Wed

Oath Day Common Hall (Upper Reception Room) Fisher’s, Minge’s, and Wild’s Anniversary Service - St Katherine Cree Church Supper in Livery Hall

D A A

Events Calendar

A - All Liverymen, Freemen, Court and Company Widows invited.B - All Liverymen invited.C - All Freemen and Junior Livery

invited.

D - All Freemen and Liverymen invited.E - Court and Freeborn children (aged

14-20) invited.F - All Liverymen, Court and Company

Widows invited.

Inter-Livery Tennis TournamentOnce again, the Cordwainer tennis team put on a fantastic performance in the Inter-Livery Tennis Tournament in September. Liveryman Andrew Peal and Tish Peal came second overall, losing after four match points. Past Warden Cameron Brown and his partner Alessia Cuomo were unlucky in the semi-finals, but the team are determined to return in 2020 to reclaim the trophy they won in 2017.

8 The Cordwainer