concept development

1

‘Bespoke is the new luxury, if you believe the forecasters, but then they alsopredict a return to genuine craftsmanship and a look that speaks less of sleek

uniformity and more of the hands that made it.’Danielle Proud, The Sunday Times, 23rd Nov 2008

2

Contents

The Range 40 - 46

Competitor Price Structures 41

Range Structure & Pricing 41 - 42

Product Costing 43

Product Life-Cycle 44

Distribution Channels 44

Web Design 45

Product Concept & Conclusion46 - 66Design Concept 47

Mood. Detail 48 - 49

A/W 2011/2012 Trend Analysis 50 - 64

Range & Concept Summary Marketing Mix 65

Report Conclusion 66

Appendices 68 - 93

A Full PESTLE Analysis 69 - 71

B Primary Consumer Questionnaire 72 - 73

C Secondary Consumer Questionnaires 74 - 79

D Visual Consumer Research 80

E Extensive Market Mapping 81

F Competitor Comparison Table 82 - 84

G Anya Hindmarch Bespoke Interview 85

H Beatrix Ong Interview 86

I Location 87

J Continued A/W 12/13 Trend Analysis 88 - 92

Retail 93

PPD 94

Bibliography 95

Image Referencing 96 - 97

The Range 40 - 46

Competitor Price Structures 41

Range Structure & Pricing 41 - 42

Product Costing 43

Product Life-Cycle 44

Distribution Channels 44

Web Design 45

Product Concept & Conclusion46 - 63Design Concept 47

Mood, Detail & Colour Board 48

A/W 2011/2012 Trend Analysis 48 - 61

Range & Concept Summary2

Report Conclusion 63

Appendices 64

A Full PESTLE Analysis 65 - 67

B Primary Consumer Questionnaire 68 - 69

C Secondary Consumer Questionnaires 70 - 75

D Visual Consumer Research 76

E Extensive Market Mapping 77

F Competitor Comparison Table 78 - 80

G Anya Hindmarch Bespoke Interview 81

H Beatrix Ong Interview 82

I Location 83

J Continued A/W 12/13 Trend Analysis

K Retail Positioning84 - 88

PPD 90

Bibliography 89 - 90

Image Referencing 91 - 93

The Concept 4 - 9

Introduction 5

Ethos & Values 6

Branding & Aesthetics 7

Made In Britain 8

Apprenticeships & Growth 9

Market Research 10 - 21

Bespoke & Custom 11 - 12

Aspirational Concept Anya Hindmarch Bespoke 13 - 14

Macro-Environment PESTLE Analysis 15

Micro-Environment SWOT Analysis 16

Primary Questionnaire Results 17

Secondary Questionnaire Results 18

Further Consumer Research 18

Primary Consumer 19

Secondary Consumer 20

Secondary Consumer 21

Competitor Analysis 22 - 38

Market Mapping 23 - 24

Upper Street 25 - 26

Freya Rose 27 - 28

Beatrix Ong 29 - 30

Penelope Chilvers 31 - 32

Rupert Sanderson 33 - 34

Alexandre Birman 35 - 36

Marc by Marc Jacobs 37

See by Chloe 38

The Ra

The Concept

Introduction

Ethos & Values

Branding & Aesthetics

Made In Britain

Apprenticeships & Growth

Market Research

Bespoke & Custom

Aspirational Brand Anya Hindmarch Bespoke

Macro-Environment PESTLE Analysis Summary

Micro-Environment SWOT Analysis

Primary Questionnaire Results

Secondary Questionnaire Results

Further Consumer Research

Primary Consumer

Secondary Consumer A

Secondary Consumer B

Competitor Analysis

Market Mapping

Upper Street

Freya Rose

Beatrix Ong

Penelope Chilvers

Rupert Sanderson

Alexandre Birman

Marc by Marc Jacobs

See by Chloe

The Concept

Introduction


Ethos & Values

Made In Britain


4

Introduction

Tuesday Smith is a responsible British luxury women'sfootwear brand, manufacturing in England. The design ethoswill go against throwaway fashion trends, creating products tolove for generations.

Aiming to support British craft and provide jobs, conceptplanning and in-depth market research is especially importantfor a socially responsible brand.

This proposal intends to research and analyse the marketenvironment, identify the brand's customer and competitors,It should also aid the continuation of brand setup, providedirection, and create awareness of future issues.

The brand's values summarise the aims of the concept.

5

British Designed & MadeTuesday Smith is proud to be British, and it's products will beproduced in the UK. Since the production of countless items movedabroad, there has been a loss of skilled British craftsmen andwomen. The brand aims to raise awareness of this and supportBritain’s creative heritage.

Craftsmanship & EducationThe brand aims to provide education in craft techniques, givingapprenticeships to young, creative people, aiding the brand's growth, aswell as providing British jobs, Each season, a new craft method willbe employed and developed into the range, showcasing newapplications of forgotten techniques.

QualityQuality is paramount, and shall be monitored closely. Attention todetail costs little or nothing, and this will be maintained as a corevalue.

Bespoke & PersonalThe range will be available as custom, with the customer choosingfrom a selection of materials. Personalisation is important, withinitialing, or a stamped handwritten message. The owner’s name ismore important than the designer's.

Affordable LuxuryThe brand aims for the product range to be more affordable, withpricing falling below many luxury brands. It is important for thebrand to grow, but maintaining craft heritage is a higher priority thancompeting with higher-end designers.

Ethos & Values

6

7


"A common misconception – and one that designers are always at pains to correct –is that a brand is simply a logo or identity. The logo is just one manifestation of abrand, although it’s often a top-level communication, seen most frequently by thegreatest number of people. It should therefore embody the key ingredients of the

brand in a distinctive, recognisable marque."Source : Designcouncil.org.uk - Business and Public Sector Branding

Establishing a strong identity is key to the grounding of the brand. It mustbe recognisable, and true to the brand values from here on forwards.

‘Word of mouth is the most powerful way in which news of your enterprise willspread, having a strong brand and clear image will help achieve that.’ Ashton, 2009

The logo has been previously developed alongside the web template (p45),and is traditional in style, but spaced for a fresh aesthetic. Including'England' immediately lets the consumer know that the brand is proud to beBritish, linking with consistency to values.

The key logo is identifiable, and represents the traditional, craftelement of the brand, which must be clear.

‘The artistic elements of the business proposition – for example the product,packaging and advertising execution – must remain very strong.’ Chevalier, Mazzalovo,

2008

As quoted, the aesthetic must be strong. fresh, clean but with craft influence,are key terms for the brand to work with, to establish an image and make thebrand familiar.

8

'Even as sales on the high street are falling into what retailers aredescribing as "a blood-bath" home grown designer exports are more

bouyant than they have been in years.'Sarah Mower, The Tumes, 26th Nov 2011

"Made in Britain would be a healthy banner and a healthy battlecry. The issue is not British ownership. It's about investing in

Britain. Mat Hunter, Design Council, BBC News, 8th Nov 2011

In July 2011, the Made In Britain logo shown right waslaunched, and is gradually being adopted by retailers andmanufacturers to clearly show customers a product'sprovenance., Tuesday Smith should aim to earn the right todisplay this logo.

'Creation of the marque follows research that 67% want a seal ofapproval that products were made here. It also showed that almosthalf of British shoppers did not know which brands could claim they

were made in Britain.' Source: marketingweek.co.uk 18th Jul 2011

Websites such as frombritainwithlove.com have gained widerecognition and are becoming popular in the press. As anonline magazine, frombritainwithlove.com (manifesto shownright) provides press, and consumer contact to specificallyBritish designer-makers for £100 per year. The publicityearned from such sites could prove invaluable to a little-known brand like Tuesday Smith.

"To maintain a traditional craft and to continue helping to supportthe local community. We believe passionately that manufacturinghas to remain, even in a small specialised form, in Britain." Eifion

Griffiths, of Melin Tregwynt Textiles, frombritainwithlove.com

Made In Britain


Although the business will start with the designer as the soleemployee, a growth plan will need to be considered and put intomotion before extra employees are urgently needed.

'We need to increase our skills base and young people aredesperate for opportunities to develop rewarding careers.' Source :

apprenticeships.org.uk Oct 25th 2011

As Tuesday Smith's aim is to provide British jobs and supportcraft training, apprenticeship schemes are a viable and widelysupported method of introducing new employees to a business.

Initiatives like 'Backing Young Britain', and National ApprenticeWeek are providing help to companies in taking on apprentices.

'Backing Young Britain (BYB) is a Government intitiative thataims to create work opportunities for you people, this includes

Apprenticeships for 16 to 24 year olds.'Source : idea.gov.uk Nov 5th 2011

'The government fully funds apprenticeship training costs for 16to 18-year-olds and matches training costs for 19 to 24-year-olds.'

Source : idea.gov.uk Nov 5th 2011

Apprenticeships will also be vital to the brand's growth,estimated below.

9

Year 1

1 employee - The Designer

After 8 months - Advertise or a suitable apprentice

After 9 months - Begin apprentice training

Year 2

Advertise for a 3rd employee, taking over majority of admin

After 6 months - Advertise for another apprentice

Year 3

Aim to be employing 5 full-time staff by end of year

10

Market Research

Bespoke & Custom - Trend Focus

Aspirational Concept - Anya Hindmarch Bespoke

Macro Environment - PESTLE Analysis

Micro Envionment - SWOT Analysis

Consumer Research - Questionnaire 1 & 2 Results


Consumer Profiles

Bespoke & Custom Trend Focus

'Providing customers with a way to customise clothing could helpdrive customer satisfaction and long-term loyalty.'

Source: Mintel – Consumer attitudes toward luxury goods March 2011

As custom is part of Tuesday Smith's brand concept, it isimportant to see how other companies have embraced thistrend,

Prada

Left are examples of thecustomisable products available onthe Prada website. Initialling is thefocus, and can be applied to bags,sunglasses and shoe-bags.

It appears that Prada is graduallyintroducing this concept with afew products, but the applicationis interesting and very personal.

Hermes

In May 2011, Hermes re-launched its flagship store inNew York with a new customcounter, selling its famousscarves with a choice 54colour combinations, anexample of how custom isbeing embraced even in veryhigh luxury brands.

11

Larin

An online footwear concept, sellingeasily interchangeable accessoriesfor a choice of 5 shoes.

However, the choice of shoes is stillquite limited, with only 5 courts ofvarying heights.

Nike I.D

Nike I.D is one of the mostpopular examples of customfootwear, with a choice ofcolours and easy design process.

Customers can also have theirname or initials embroideredonto the tongue.

Converse

A very similar concept to NikeI.D but with a much widerrange of colours and patterns tochoose from. although Nike I.D,starts at £200, but conversestarts at just £50.

It is clear that customers want a personal product and this should be remembered throughoutimplementation of the concept, to ensure it is accessible and desireable.

12

"There has been so much waste in fashion recently,but what is important are things that you keep, and

want to hand on to your Grandchildren"Anya Hindmarch discussing her bespoke range

Aspirational Brand Anya Hindmarch Bespoke

Brand...

Although Anya Hindmarch is not afootwear designer, her bespoke rangeof products and the way they are soldis very inspirational, and could be auseful template for the Tuesday Smithbrand. It is also a very Britishcompany, in both its traditional imageand ethos.

“We try to produce many of the productsin Britain, but more specialist items such asthe Ebury Bag, and the Keepsake Boxes

are produced in Florence”Codie, Store Manager

The brand has a consistent image, instores (shown left), concessions andonline, and although large, withstockists in 8 countries, the feeling of asmall business has been retained.Online there are personal touches like'Anya's Diary' adding to customerexperience.

Interview with Codie, Store Manager, Anya Hindmarch Bespoke, Appendix G

13

Like Anya Hindmarch, promoting the 'British'provenance of the product and allowingcustomers to see the craft skills involved in itscreation would be a useful marketing tool.

“The products are very personal, and that is what Anya wanted.There is a lot of choice, of leathers, finishes, and ways to personalise,

with the embossing in almost any colour. I haven’t come acrossanother brand that offers the same personal service yet”.

Codie, Store Manager

Products...

Products are stylish andunderstated, with clear focus onquality.Like Tuesday Smith, theemphasis of the bespoke range isthat the products becometreasured heirlooms. Customerschoose materials and colours,and can edit the design to suittheir needs.Each item has suprising details,such as the 'Lucky Penny' thatcomes inside every purse andwallet.

Left. a video on the website of Anyaintroducing the bespoke range, anotherexample of personal branding. In this sameway, putting creative touches to products willbe important to Tuesday Smith.

14

Macro-Environment PESTLE Analysis SummaryComplete PESTLE Analysis can be found as Appendix A

Political‘The government has to “boost the human capital of our country”, which it is doing by

offering more apprenticeships and increasing the number of university places’Source: BBC News Online

Most notably, the government has brought in new initiatives to improve employmentopportunities for young people, as described above. This is positive news for TuesdaySmith's plan to provide skilled craft apprenticeships.

EconomicLending has become extremely difficult, therefore gaining funding is morechallenging than ever. The increased VAT rate has also had a huge impact on profitmargins for all industries.

'Most retailers have already increased clothes prices in the first quarter of 2011 orplan to in the second half of the year as a result of soaring prices in areas such as

cotton, labour, energy and transport. While this has driven value growth, it has alsomoderated demand and led to a fall in volume sales.'

Source: Mintel – Women’s Fashion Lifestyles UK May 2011

Consumer trends have altered due to the recession, but there is a growing trendtoward investment buying.

‘…there has also been a shift towards buying fewer but better quality items’Source: Mintel – Women’s Fashion Lifestyles UK May 2011

Social‘Middle of the road retailers such as Clarks stand to benefit from an older population’

Source: Mintel – Footwear Retailing UK June 2011

The ageing population means that many fast-fashion retailers will struggle, with moredemand for quality. The 2012 Olympics will bring business to London and interest toBritish companies, and this must be taken advantage of.

TechnologicalTablets and Smart Phones, and social networking have enabled retailers to engagetheir customers in exciting but inexpensive ways. Bloggers are now seen as importantpublicity, and gaining approval can impact hugely on popularity.

'Smart phones are still owned by only 12% of people – they’re more expensive and very highlyspecified, but those who have them have already realised the scope to use them for shopping.This does not mean they have to be used in isolation, they work well in conjunction with a

laptop or desktop PC internet access – for example as a quick way of adding something to anOcado shopping list.'Source: Mintel – E-Commerce Europe February 2010

EnvironmentWith the soaring cost of fuel, taking advantage of new 'green' incentives, such as solarpower, and zero road tax on certain vehicles, can save substantially. The businessshould endeavour to recycle and minimise waste, to keep practises inline withcommon UK business practice. Using recycled boxes and paper will also help towardreducing the company's carbon footprint.

Micro-Environment SWOT Analysis

Issues more closely related to the brand and its function have been explored through SWOT

!

Strengths ⋅ British designed and produced, which can

reduce costs such as shipping, and also fills a gap in the market, as shown by consumer research

⋅ Customisation of products, where there is also a gap in the market, in terms of making the product personal and special

⋅ Links with craft and education could increase interest in brand for moral reasons

⋅ Classic shoe styles, which are always in demand

⋅ Although price is lower than other luxury brands, exclusivity comes from production time and bespoke options.

⋅ Personal experience with both high street and luxury retailers gives broader insight

⋅ Knowledge of web design and PR, aids publicity and gaining brand awareness

⋅ Good computer skills aids design and specification processes

⋅ Good making and pattern cutting skills aids production and education schemes

⋅ London based, which is convenient for industry links and customer research

Weaknesses ⋅ May struggle to gain customer loyalty, as a

new brand with no previous reputation ⋅ Small brand with little power when

purchasing from suppliers, undercut by larger brands

⋅ Using classic shapes in range can mean missing out on best selling trends

⋅ Customers with unusual feet may struggle, as lasts are not bespoke

⋅ Detailing of designs may mean very slow production rate

⋅ Time constraints from having to teach staff, which could also cause quality issues.

⋅ Few materials and machinery. ⋅ Extra cost of custom options, handwritten

message embossing plate cannot be reused for another customer

⋅ No current relationship with press

Opportunities ⋅ Horizontal growth through expanding product

range to include small accessories and other entry-level products

⋅ Collaboration with other British brands which can generate publicity and therefore custom

⋅ Links with education and training favourable when being considered from government grants and other funding

⋅ Interest in British brands aided by UK and London tourism, could lead to discovering overseas market

⋅ Celebrity fans bring a great deal of business to many UK brands, for example Kate Middleton with Hobbs and Whistles

⋅ Social networking sites Facebook and Twitter are now commonly used by brands quickly and cheaply update fans with news of sales and products

⋅ Introduction of bespoke lasts at a later date

Threats ⋅ No reputation may mean less investment and

interest from consumers ⋅ Setup costs may be difficult to cover with

banks reluctance to lend ⋅ Statistically 8 out of 10 UK business start-ups

fail within the first 5 years ⋅ The UK footwear industry is very large and

competition is fierce ⋅ Cheap labour abroad may mean keeping

production in Britain becomes increasingly difficult

⋅ Custom colour and materials options could mean overheads outweigh profit, especially when products runs are small

⋅ Unstable economic environment affects all areas of business

16

External opportunities will grow in number as the brand becomes more established and mustcontinually be reassessed to make the most of chances that present themselves. Though threatsand weaknesses must be worked upon and steps taken to protect the brand and it's steadygrowth.

Q1 - Do you feel there is a lackof quality craftsmanship in

Primary Questionnaire Results

‘It is important to understand people before attempting to engagethem in a commercial transaction; of course consumer needs

should come before those of the organisation’ Edwards & Day, 2005

To aid the understanding of consumers and their needs, a10 question questionnaire was completed by 92 people,aged 18 to 60.

Results revealed strong trends, with 86% noticing a lack ofquality in shoes available. 34 women would describe thelevel of quality as 'Poor', and 45 said 'Average', showingthat customers do look for quality and value whenpurchasing.

96% believe that there is a gap in the market for Britishmanufactured footwear, which supports consumer reports,and the analysis of the growing demand for UK goods. Thisis supportive of Tuesday Smith's brand aims. With 85% ofwomen agreeing with the statement 'Companies should aimto bring footwear production back to the UK', showing thatdespite the recession, consumers still care about productprovenance, and supporting UK industry.

Gauging opinions on designer footwear, 76% believe that ahigher price does not necessarily mean higher qualityrather 'You pay for a name', which could be useful asTuesday Smith wishes to focus on British quality, ratherthan on brand-names, an anti-brand almost.

The majority prioritise 'Quality', and 'Detail' over pricewhen purchasing shoes, with 'Trendiness' lowest,indication that women are prepared to pay for a style theylike. 34 believe in spending more on lasting classic styles,with 42 closely following. This supports the below Mintelquote.

‘…there has also been a shift towards buying fewer butbetter quality items’ Source: Mintel – Women’s Lifestyles UK May 2011

Interestingly, question 9 revealed that the majority see thedesign style of footwear available as 'Poor', with 1 womanperceiving it as 'Exciting and Stylish'. This shows a possiblelink to the low prioritisation of 'Trendiness' in question 7.Women feel dissatisfied and uninterested in the manybrands choosing to closely follow trends.

Q3 - Do you feel that there is a gapin the market for British designedand produced footwear?

Q5 - With regard to designer footwear,which of the following would you agreewith best?

Q7 - Which do you consider your mainpriority when purchasing shoes?

17

See Appendix B for questionnaire statistics

Secondary consumer research has also been completed, with key outcomes shown here.

'A third of adults are prepared to pay more for quality'.Source : Mintel Footwear Retailing UK - June 2011

'Rising clothes prices and low consumer confidence have had an impact on women’sshopping habits, with value for money having become even more important' Source : Mintel

Women's Fashion Lifestyles UK - May 2011

The two statements above have proven through research to be linked, as described inthe next statement, with more people choosing to make 'investment purchases'. Value isreliant on quality, as consumers want items to last.

'While women have cut back on clothes purchasing, both by trading down to lessexpensive stores and buying fewer garments, there has also been a shift towards buying

fewer but better quality items' Source : Mintel Women's Fashion Lifestyles UK - May 2011

As Tuesday Smith's focus is on quality, this consumer trend is reassuring, and the brandcould significantly boost interest through promoting this key value.

The secondary questionnaire was completed to gain a more detailed insight into thecustomer's needs, and what real women want.

A recurrent theme of size and fit is apparent, which could be an aspect that the brandmoves to focus on in the future as it becomes more established.

'Wide fit whilst being fashionable too' 'Limited on styles an quality for ladies with larger legs'

Focusing on this now, as well as custom and supporting British industry could dilutevalues and focus, but is a viable future opportunity. The view of the market is summedup well by one participant;

'Not enough good quality shops offering shoes that are a bit different'

Women are not satisfied with the choice, especially for ages 35 to 60, with many storesnow very trend focused. The general opinion is that retailers have lost sight of whatcustomers want, in pursuit of lower margins. What is required is always quality,wearable, beautiful shoes that will last. The majority selected quality, and comfort, astheir prioritised needs, with detailing and personalisation also being rated highly. Mostloved the idea of having their shoes stamped with their own initials, which is apromising result. Provenance is important too, and most were supportive of 'BritishMade'.These results have helped to highlight clear issues in the market, but also gave a clearerindication of who the Tuesday Smith customer is, and of the age group that is to betargeted.

18

Secondary Questionnaire Results


See Appendix C for questionnaire statistics

Dress £200

Sandro

Gloves £130Diane VonFurstenburg

Bag £375Vanessa Bruno

Scarf £85

Comptoirs Des

Cottoniers

Jeans £89Levi's

Top £59COS

Coat £275Reiss

Age... 37

Occupation...

TV Locations ManagerLives...

Dulwich, London

About...

• Married with 1 young child

• Enjoys going to museums andgalleries, and the cinema.

• Career driven, but spending time withher family is equally as important.

Primary Consumer

Attitude to fashion...

She loves British fashion, and takes pridein her appearance, experimenting withnew colours. Likes to own somethingoriginal and bespoke that is good quality.Classic silhouettes that flatter her figureare a staple, with interesting accessories.

Life...

Earns a good wage, helping to paythe mortgage on her 3 bedroomhouse. Enjoys travelling to warmerdestinations such as Greece. Shopsat Waitrose, Sainbury's, or onlinewith Ocado. Enjoys keeping fit withyoga classes, but treats herself withregular meals out.

Spending Habits...

Although budgeting is not a priority,she tries to get value for moneywhen she buys, and aims to buyfewer but better quality items.Sometimes favours Net-A-Porter andMatches for occasional treats. Sheshops trusted brands like Levi's forjeans, and Church's for brogues, butenjoys finding new labels that sellsomething a little bit unusual.

Her Wardrobe...

Profiles informed throughvisual research, Appendix D

Bag £650Mulberry

Cardigan £69NW3 by Hobbs

Coat £450

Jaeger

Skirt £170

J Crew

Liberty Print Shirt £65John Lewis Colection

Jeans £65

Phase Eight

Gloves £140Mulberry

Shirt £99

Hobbs

Age... 50

Occupation...

Solicitor

Lives...

Bath, UK

About...

• Married with 2teenage children

• Enjoys cooking and walking in thecountryside.

• Loves spending time at her holidayhome in the Cotswolds with family andfriends.

Secondary Consumer A


Hates to look too old, preferring amore toned down colour palettenowadays, Trends are unimportant,but tries to keep her wardrobe up-to-date with fresh new accessories. Looksafter her wardrobe well, making theitems she loves last.

Life...

Career focused, she earns a high wageand has few money worries. Lives in a

large home, owned outright.Enjoys relaxing in thefamily's Cotswolds cottageinstead of abroad. Lovescooking for the family andfavours local stores andfarmer's markets for food,but Sainsbury's or Waitroseare good for essentials.

Her Wardrobe...

Spending Habits...

Loves British brands likeHobbs and Jaeger, and truststheir quality. Has yet to orderclothes online, as she prefersto try on. Buys only a fewspecial items each season,avoiding sale rack leftovers.

Shorts £49COS

Cardigan £19.99Zara

Coat £165

French Connection

Dress £45.99Zara

Scarf £90Sonia by

Sonia Rykiel

Bag £220Milly

Bag £305See by Chloe

Age... 28

Occupation...

Assistant Merchandiser

Lives...

Islington, London

About...

• Single

• Career focused, but likesto have fun with friends

• Loves exploring on weekend citybreaks and finding new quirky stores

• Tries to keep fit and healthy, andgoes jogging to avoid gym costs


Likes to look good, but tries to do it ona budget. Trends are somewhatimportant, but owning something a bitdifferent is more of a priority.

Spending Habits...

An online shoppingdevotee, she scours Ebayfor unusual bargains.Keeping up-to-date withblogs and apps, meansshe always knows aboutthe sales first. Shops forfairly cheap items often,but saves to buy her'investment' accessorieseach season. Offshootbrands such as See byChloe are great, as shecan afford designernames for a lower price.

Secondary Consumer B

Her Wardrobe...

Life...

Earns a reasonable wage, but has to budget. Her rent is the biggestmonthly expense. Tries to save money with deals, store cards andvouchers. Enjoys occasional meals out but mostly cooks at home,shopping at Sainsbury's or Asda.

Competitor Analysis

Market Mapping

Upper Street

Freya Rose

Beatrix Ong

Penelope Chilvers

Rupert Sanderson

Alexandre Birman

Luxury Entry-Level Labels:

See by Chloe

Marc by Marc Jacobs

22

Style vs Price

Competitors shownbetween lines

Market MappingExtensive Market Mapping can be found as Appendix E

Maps have been produced to clearly identify direct competitors and gaps in the market.Although the pricing bracket of Tuesday Smith's competitors covers a wide range, designaesthetic is equally as important when considering the consumer group.

The above shows the area of the market whereTuesday Smith will operate, fulfilling a market gapbetween classic and design lead style. The type ofcustom service the brand offers cannot be foundelsewhere, and differentiates the brand fromcompetitors.

.

23

A high price does not necessarily mean high exclusivity.Although the average price of shoes by See by Chloe is around£250, exclusivity has been retained, something Tuesday Smithshould aim for.

Exclusivity vs Price

24

Upper StreetCompeting in Price & Concept

£195

Leather

£300

Snakeskin

£275

Satin & Crystal Strap

'Made to order shoes,designed by you'

Products

Prices start at £195 for flats, and take 6weeks from the design to delivery. A largechoice of fabrics, toe shapes, andembellishments give endless designcombinations. Boots are to be introducedsoon. A choice of upper patterns, allowscustomers to choose styles that suit theirfeet better.

Brand & Aesthetic

Founded by sisters Julia Grinham andKaty Chandler after they had difficultyfinding stylish shoes for larger feet.

A sleek, fashion-conscious image isconveyed clearly through the shoedesign choices and website. Theaesthetic is trendy, and fashionable,but also wearable.

USP

Customers design their own shoes,applying a selection of colours,materials and embellishments to achoice of styles, similar to how theTuesday Smith custom service willoperate.

“Women appreciate quality, they want theirshoes to last, and they want their shoes to bebeautiful” Julia Grinham & Katy Chandler, Co-Founders

of Upper Street

Online

"One of the advantages of being on theinternet, is that we're a British brand,but it makes us accessible to anybody,no matter where you're located" Julia

Grinham & Katy Chandler of Upper Street

- Imagery is computer generated butlooks realistic.- Good style advice and reassuringinformation, to secure sales.- Simple '7 easy steps' to design yourown shoes.

Service

Offers a full refund or exchange if shoesare unsuitable, and will also pay forproblems to be locally fixed, reassuringcustomers.Materials samples can be sent for £1each, another method of securing sales.It is clear that thorough research hasbeen completed, and the brandunderstands what women want.

Customer

Fashion conscious, but wants comfort.Can be any age, as the brand providesunlimited combinations to suitanyone. It is ideal for a woman whowants to stand out from the crowd.

26

Freya RoseCompeting in Price & Concept

£460

Leather & Mother of pearl

£695

Leather & Crystal

£275

Leather & Suede

USP

Specialising in bespoke bridalfootwear. Embellishment is key to herfeminine style, and the materials andembellishments used are luxurious.

Brand & Products

Feminine, romantic and unique madeusing high quality Italian silks and leathers.Heavily influenced by fine jewellery, andhas collaborated with DeBeers diamonds.Luxurious materials are used, includingfreshwater pearls, diamonds and platinum.

Signature feature is the inlaid mother ofpearl heel, which harks back to vintagestyles, along with the shoe clips she uses.

She does notmake bespoke lasts, but aims tomake the shoes comfortable and well-fittingthrough design alterations.

'An innovative, romantic and breathtakingapproach to classic couture shoes'

Currently has 14 UK stockists, whichare all bridal boutiques.

Her global representation is smallwith 1 stockist in Rotterdam, andDenmark. although this isunderstandable as she is still a littleknown designer.

Service

Will make a completely bespokedesign on an existing last, or anexisting design in a different colour.

She prides herself on her personalrelationship with customers, which isreflected in her glowingrecommendations.

"Your shoes made my outfit and Ican't thank you enough. EVERYsingle person at my weddingcommented on my beautiful shoes andI made sure I told them where theywere from, and you do more than justbridal too..."Recommendation on website

This level of personal service issomething that Tuesday Smtih shouldaim to replicate, as it will help tobuild a strong reputation andcustomer loyalty.

Customer

Mainly brides, ageing from late 20's tolate 30's, but her reasonable heelheights and feminine aesthetic isliked by a wide age range.

Online

- Strong, reflects the brand style.- Easy to navigate, online shop smallready-to-wear collection.- Imagery is limited, only one view pershoe.

28

Beatrix OngCompeting in Price & Style

£635

Calf Leather

£295

Patent Calf Leather

£195

Glitter Lace & Leather

Beatrix Ong is Tuesday Smith's maincompetitor, in terms of style, price andquality.

'Female without being cloyingly feminine, grownup without being tame, sexy without being

obvious, classic without lacking edge'

USP

Quality and luxurious design, for afairer price. Her consistent style andpassion for craftsmanship has helpedbuild her strong reputation, and criticalacclaim.

Brand & Products

London based, her passion is for elegance indesign, quality and balance, which forms herbusiness and design mantra. She aims todesign distinctive but wearable shoes. Heelheights are conservative. Collaborations tocreate limited edition shoeboxes show herpassion for attention to even the smallestdetails.

"We listen to our customers, and know thatthey want more flat pumps and mid-heightshoes in the range, so Beatrix is taking this

on board for next season"Iinterview with Beatrix Ong store manager, see Appendix H

Although Beatrix Ong has a strongnumber of stockists bothinternationally and in the UK, itappears that care has been taken toavoid market saturation, and retainbrand exclusivity.

This should be an importantconsideration for Tuesday Smithwhen expanding the brand,especially considering the lowerprice range.

Online

- Beautifully presented, efficient online shop.- Easy to navigate, although images are limited,this lets down the site.- Information on materials is poor.

Customer

"Our customer is usually in their late 20s orearly 30s, but we also have alot of women in

their late 40s who shop here. "They are usuallyprofessional women, looking for simple style.They definately appreciate sophistication too."Comfort, quality and wearable shoes is whatour lady is looking to buy". Iinterview with Beatrix Ong

store manager, see Appendix H

"Our bestseller is the'Jefferson' boot, ourcustomers like how itflatters the leg becausethe back is completely

elastciated"

30

Penelope Chilvers

Competing in Price, Style & Concept

£499

Leather

'Embracing fashion but not conforming tothe idea of a throwaway wardrobe'

£245

Embroidered Velvet

£286

Corduroy & Wood

USP

The range is based upon her passionfor craftsmanship, aimimg to designtimeless, stylish pieces to be treasured,like Tuesday Smith. Chilvers' nowprovides an online bespoke service.

Brand & Products

Made in Spain, Chilvers strives forquality and to support local craft.Known for her practical, stylish boots,and her bestselling 'Dandy' slipper,which is now offered withmonogramming.

Her style is timeless, fashionable yetmodern. Her aesthetic is never fussy,always consistent and very wearable.

Online

- Simple but effective- Promotes the designers creative -past- Online shop provides excellentproduct information and imagery

A very large number of stockists; 80globally, including Liberty,Selfridges and Harrods in the UK.

Her 'British' image has encouragedgreat interest from overseas. Thiscould also be a possibility forTuesday Smith in the future, but theBritish market must be theimmediate focus.

Service

Frequently in the press is the new onlinemonogramming service. Prices start at £245which is relatively cheap for the quality andservice being provided.

Customer

Age ranges from late 20's to 60+ as Chilvers'simple style transcends trend and age.She has gained popularity after CatherineMiddleton, Cate Blanchett and ClaudiaSchiffer wore her boots.

32

Rupert SandersonCompeting in Style

£945

Leather

£625

Leather & Mesh

£375

Patent Leather

'Less is more'

USP

Synonymous with high quality andfeminine design, this has earned astrong international reputation.

Brand & Products

Made in Italy, the collection reflectshis passion for detail and quality, butis also very British, shown through hischoice to name every shoe after aDaffodil.Inspired by the sensual feeling of thematerials he uses, the curves of thelasts and heels, aiming to lengthen awoman's leg, accentuating its shape.

Online

- A practically perfect website.- Considered and efficient.- The online shop sells his entirecollection, displaying it well.

Has kept a high level of exclusivity tohis label, through stocking in only themost exclusive locations. He currentlyhas two London boutiques, one inParis, and Hong Kong.

Other stockists are luxury onlinecompanies, such as mytheresa.com,and department stores such asHarrods.

Obviously has ambitions to open morestandalone boutiques, to keep hisbrand tightly controlled, and veryexclusive.

Customer

Celebrity fans are constantly growingin number, with Kate Middletonencouraging sbooming sales.Professional women ageing from 25to mid 50. They are stylish,sophisticated, who buy investmentpieces rather than following trends.

34

Alexandre BirmanCompeting in Price & Concept

£400

Suede & Python

£360

Suede, Ostrich & Metal

£240

Python

'Exotic & intricate'

USP

A Brazilian designer, inspired byglamour and exotic materials.Birman also provides a customservice.

Brand & Products

Made in Brazil, the shoes are pricedbelow competitors.The designer is inspired by exoticfemininity and uses unusualmaterials, like python.

Online

- Easy to use, good information- Visually interesting, with videosshowing his shoemaking team atwork.- Translation to English is difficult tounderstand,

Stocked widely throughout his nativeBrazil and South America, and alsogaining a large following throughoutthe UK and Europe, aided bycelebrity placements.

Online, Net-A-Porter now stocks thebrand, and Selfridges in Londonhosts a mini boutique. This has keptbrand excluisvity high in the UK andEurope, unlike Brazil.

Customer

She is stylish, and an exhibitionist,loves unusual design details, anddresses to impress.Kate Hudson and Olivia Palermo arefans of the designer, and representhis customer type.

36

Service

Now offers a bespoke service in aselection of his stand-aloneboutiques, enhancing exclusivity.Bespoke lasts can be made, orcustomers can opt to choose theirown colours and materials, similar tothe service Tuesday Smith intend toprovide.

Marc by Marc JacobsCompeting in Price & Style

£220

Printed Ponyskin

£590

Leather & Corduroy

£395

Patent Leather & Metal

Products

Reflect the designer's quirky style,but styles are easier to wear.

Unusual materials are used, such asthe colour wash patent below center,with metal hardware giving designsedge.

Customer

Trendy, stylish women, usually agedbetween 20 and 35.

Availability

A selection are available from MarcJacobs online, and select Marc Jacobsboutiques, which are located globally.

Marc by Marc Jacobs can beconsidered a competitor to theTuesday Smith brand because of thelower price banding, although it isimportant to remember that the twobrands have very different values andstyles.

37

See by ChloeCompeting in Price

£220

Leather, Grosgrain & Crystal

£355

Textured Leather

£295

Leather & Shearling

Brand & Products

See by Chloe has a much lower pricetag than the catwalk Chloe range witha younger and quirkier aesthetic.

More practical materials are used witha rougher edge; worn-effect leathersand bolder shapes.

Customer

She can be as young as 18, but ismainly aged between 22 and 40,quirky in style.

Availability

Not available to buy on Chloe'swebsite, but is stocked by well-knownretailers such as Net-A-Porter in theUK and SAKS in the USA.

The price range of the brand is verysimilar to Tuesday Smith, althoughthe design style is quirkier, makingthe two indirect competitors.

38

The Range

Price Structures

Range Structure & Pricing

Product Costing

Product Life-Cycle & Distribution Channels

Web Design

Packaging

40

Competitor Price Structures

Analysing the price structure of competitor's ranges has been a useful exercise. The black lineshows the proposed level of the Tuesday Smith range from cheapest to most expensive. BeatrixOng can be considered the closest competitor in terms of price, but also in style and quality.

This pyramid showsthe styles breakdownof the range, with thenumber of styles perprice category.

Range Structure & Pricing

41

£370 to £425 ( up to £475 custom)

6 in range

£300 to £370 ( up to £430custom)

4 in range

£195 to £300 (up to£355 custom)

2 in range

£0!

£100 !

£200 !

£300 !

£400 !

£500 !

£600 !

£700 !

£800 !

£900 !

£1,000!

Flat Pump! Flat Shoe! Low Court! High Court! High Ankle Boot!

Flat Knee Boot!

High Knee Boot!

Rupert Sanderson !

Alexandre Birman!

Beatrix Ong!

Penelope Chilvers!

Marc by Marc Jacobs!

Tuesday Smith!

The above is a guide to the proposed AW 12/13 range, with price structure and style breakdown.The choices of lasts have been informed through trend research, but they are classic shapeswhich fit with the brand style ethos.

Last & Height

Style Size Range

Est. Standard

Price

Standard Colourways

Est. Custom Price

No. In Range

7mm

Flat slip-on pump

36 to 42 £195 3 From £245 1

20mm

Full lace-up shoe

36 to 42 £250 2 From £310 1

20mm

Knee High Boot

36 to 42 £370 2 From £430 1

50mm

Court Shoe

36 to 42 £335 3 From £395 2

50mm

Ankle Boot 36 to 42 £370 2 From £430 1

85mm

Court Shoe (1

Statement)

36 to 41 £380 3 From £440 2

85mm

Closed Toe Statement

Sandal

36 to 41 £385 3 From £435 1

85mm

Closed Shoe 36 to 41 £390 2 From £445 2

85mm

Knee High Boot

36 to 41 £425 2 From £475 1

Last Ref.1470 85mm Last Ref.1393 50mm Last Ref.1641 20mm Last Ref.1641 7mm

42

Product Costing

43

The above shows an estimated costing per pair, but itmust be considered that number may vary depending onmaterials, simplicity of design and availability ofcomponents.

Distribution Channels

Product Life-Cycle

The above charts show the proposed life-cycle of the range. It is important to remember that thecycle will alter as the brand grows, with new considerations if overseas stockists are gained.

45

Web Design

Online presence is moreimportant than ever, and theonline industry is continuallygrowing. Effective web designmust be a priority for TuesdaySmith, and the custom sectionmust function well.

Rupert Sanderson's simplelayout shown left is a goodexample, although it's style isslightly monotone anduninteresting without any useof colour.

Anya Hindmarch's 'Anya Loves'section is an insight into thedesigner's life and interests, andhelping the brand to feel morepersonal. This would be a usefulfeature to help build interest inthe Tuesday Smith brand,encouraging customers to revisitthe site regularly, capturing theirattention with new products.

The Tuesday Smith website preliminary design follows a classic layout, for ease of use. Furtherdevelopment is needed for the online shop. Like Anya Hindmarch, there is also an 'our world'section, which should be updated regularly with likes and inspirations, provide a continualsource of interest to customers.

46

Product Concept

Design Concept & Moodboard

Details Board

Colour Board

A/W 12/13 Trend Analysis

Evaluation

Range & Concept Summary

Report Conclusion

Design Concept & Moodboard

Researching Italy’s rich heritage in art, architecture and has linkedwith personal interest in geometric pattern. Discovering new waysof applying traditional methods, combined with classic design thatspeaks of ageless style, a fresh but beautiful outcome will beproduced. Trends may be referenced in a minimal way, butdesigning to suit the customer is more important.

47

48

Details Board

Details are geometric, but explore 3D. Combining understateddetails with excess, with consideration. See sketchbook forinspiration research, experimentation and materials.

49

Colour Board

The palette incorporates A/W 12/13 trends, mainly the tones on page 51, whileconsidering more classic tones, and what the customer would wear.

Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 Trend Analysis

Mid-Tones & Darks

Brights & Natural Mid-Tones

Pastels

Pales, Neutrals & Dusty Textures

Modern Pattern

Textured Metallics

Minimal, Neutral

Otherworld, Toe Shapes

The Cut-Out

Lace-Up Boot

Pull-On Straight Boot, Chelsea Boot

Strapping, Covered Hardware

Pearlised, Marbled Hardware

Statement & Block Heels, Using The Trends

50

Mid-Tones & Darks

'Colour trends showed a preference for caramel and beige nuances in brown, but the darkerand more intense red shades, typical of the winter season, were also to be seen, in addition to

classic navy blue and dark green: warm tones and concise shades...'Source : www.gleni.it - Linea Pelle Trends

51

Brights & Natural Mid-Tones

52

Pastels

Pales, Neturals & Dusty Textures

WGSN

WGSN

54

Modern Pattern

55

WGSN

WGSN

Textured Metallics

'We recall tones of beige and light brown enriched with gold or bronze laminated effects torecreate a special matt-metallic effect..' Source : www.gleni.it - Linea Pelle Trends

56

Minimal, Neutral

57

Otherworld

Toe Shapes

58

WGSN

The Cut-Out

59

WGSN

Lace-Up Boot

60

WGSN

Pull-On Straight Boot

Chelsea Boot

WGSN

Covered Hardware

Strapping

62

63

Pearlised, Marbled Hardware

Hardware Trends

64

Ala

ia A

/W 1

1/12

Statement & Block Heels

Using The Trends

As prior research revealed, the customer is not overly interested intrends. Covered and pearlised hardware is an easy yet subtle way ofkeeping on-trend but not phasing the customer. The chelsea, lace-upand pull-on boots can be used as they will remain key styles. The cut-out and statement heel trend could also be referenced, but in a simpleway. Toe shapes are varied but the almond and oval styles chosen (p42)are classic, and will not date easily. The dark and mid-tone paletteappeals, as such tones are most likely to transcend seasonal trends.

Range & Concept Summary

This table summarises the basis of the concept, clarifying it's key facets. This will be auseful reference tool, and should be seen as a guideline to the brand.

65

!

Product

⋅ British designed and produced ⋅ Off-the-rack or custom with a choice 6

materials at first, and initialling or a handwritten message

⋅ A new craft technique each season, with new applications

⋅ Classic silhouettes, with interesting details ⋅ Packaged and delivered with the

environment in mind ⋅

Place

⋅ The custom and off-the-shelf range available on tuesdaysmith.co.uk

⋅ Aiming to be stocked in UK boutiques and online, with department stores as a distant aim

Price

⋅ From £195 to £425 (£245 to £475 custom) ⋅ Lower than other luxury brands such as

Rupert Sanderson, inline with Beatrix Ong for example

Promotion

⋅ Aiming to be listed on frombritainwithlove.co.uk etc.

⋅ Aiming to be featured in magazines Grazia, Elle, and Marie Claire, with readers aged 22 to 55 (the brand’s target market)

⋅ A well-designed website, to boost profile ⋅ Regular updates and newsletter to

customers ⋅ Strong social-networking presence ⋅ Aiming to collaborate with British

companies, for greater exposure

Customer

⋅ Age 22 to 60, Average age 36 ⋅ Stylish but not trend focused ⋅ Prioritise quality, comfort and interesting

details ⋅ Want a product that will last, and not date ⋅ Well-off but consider value when they buy

Production

⋅ Supporting British craft, and creating jobs in the UK

⋅ Produced solely in the UK, using British materials and components wherever possible

⋅ Creating jobs through apprenticeships, educating in craft, keeping skills alive in the UK

⋅ Custom products personalised in separate custom workshop, to cope with smaller orders

⋅ Environment issues must be considered during production, packaging and delivery

The above outlines how the Tuesday Smith online custom service would operate. It is quitesimilar to Upper Street's method, but with fewer colour choices, because of cost, though thenumber could be increased in the future. Customers can also personalise an existing design withtheir own initials.

66

Report Conclusion

USP : Focusing on the customer, not the brand. Custom choices for anindividual, special product. Promoting and protecting British craft,creating jobs and opportunities. Quality, classic but stylish, wearable.

The research that has been conducted, both primary and secondary hasexposed key areas where development should continue.

It is now clear who the Tuesday Smith customer is, and that there issupport and interest in the concept. Supporting British craft is anopportunity in the market, and should be promoted as such. Establishinga strong brand identity can be continued as design and selection takesplace, and through the realisation and placement of the products.

As the type of custom service being offered differentiates the brand fromit's competitors, a strong online capability must allow the service to runefficiently, and must be promoted as unique to the market.

The design and selection process must consider the customer and theirneeds, ensuring the aesthetic of the range fits the brand and it's market.

Research and findings should be utilised sensibly and intelligently to helpensure the brand is prepared and protected during it's difficult firststages, especially during such difficult economic times. Informationgathered should also help to create an elegant range, in a way that is trueto the brand's ethos and values.

68

Appendices

Full PESTLE Analysis

Primary Consumer Questionnaire & Results

Secondary Consumer Questionnaires

Visual Consumer Research

Extensive Market Mapping

Competitor Comparison Table

Anya Hindmarch Bespoke Interview

Beatrix Ong Interview

Location

Continued A/W 12/13 Trend Analysis

Retail Positioning

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

Appendix A Full PESTEL Analysis

Setting up a business can be difficult at any time, especially during a recession. The widerenvironmet has been thoroughly ainvestigated through a PESTEL analysis.

PoliticalSince the coalition government came into power in 2010, there have been many changes to theway the country is being run, and its future outlook. Firstly, university tuition fees have beenincreased to £9000 per year, which has forced many people to reconsider applying to degreecourses, and change their spending and saving patterns in order to afford the extra cost.We have experienced cuts throughout the public service sector, with most notable changes tothe benefits system. There has since been widespread public unrest, with the riots in many UKtowns and cities in August, which many attributed to anger stemming from the cuts. Millions ofpounds worth of damage was caused, and retailers struggled to repair stores and replace stockquickly.

Although there have been cuts across many government departments, spending in educationhas been increased. It is now easier for companies to take on apprentices as explained in-depthon page 9 which is advantageous to Tuesday Smith’s goals.

‘The government has to “boost the human capital of our country”, which it is doing by offeringmore apprenticeships and increasing the number of university places’ Source: BBC News Online

EconomicalThe pound is now very weak against many currencies including the US Dollar, and the Euro,meaning Britain is now becoming a more attractive shopping destination for many tourists. Thisis a benefit for many British companies, who have lost many UK customers due to the creditcrunch. The Chinese, and Russian economies are booming, and London’s high-end storescontinue to be filled with both nationalities.

The VAT increase of 2010 to 20% has not affected retail very noticeably, but of coursemanufacturers have been hit harder, trying to keep retail pricing low, but with costs in all areasrising, as reported by Mintel:

‘Most retailers have already increased clothes prices as a result of soaring prices in areas such ascotton, labour, energy and transport.’ Source: Mintel – Women’s Lifestyles UK May 2011

Interest rates areat an all time low, but lending has become extremely difficult with banksfeeling reluctant to invest. This has caused a reduction business start-ups, and an increase incompanies filing for bankrupcy, with Woolworths and MFI as high profile examples.

It has also become much more difficult to get a mortgage, which has meant that many would-befirst-time buyers are continuing to rent, which is another reason for reduced spending on goodsand services. Job losses, lending and wage cuts have meant many people have reconsideredtheir lifestyle spending choices. The fashion and footwear industry has been affected by thesechanges with many people choosing to buy less often. Although, this does not necessarily meanthat a cheaper option is always favoured, with many choosing an investment buying strategy, asreported by Mintel.

‘…there has also been a shift towards buying fewer but better quality items’ Source: Mintel – Women’s

Lifestyles UK May 2011

Although the economic outlook is fairly bleak, this consumer trend gives an indication that theconcept of providing quality British footwear, could take advantage of this consumer trend, ifimplemented in the correct way, in terms of the product itself and pricing strategy.

SocialThe ageing population is an important social factor that will affect retail in a significant way.

‘A declining teen and young adult population is bad news for value fashion retailers such asPrimark and New Look.’ Source: Mintel – Footwear Retailing UK June 2011

The market for cheap, fast fashion will decline with the teen population, with more demand forhigher quality, more classic garments and accessories that will last longer. Older shoppers arealso generally less trend-focused, and consider comfort as a higher priority.‘Middle of the road retailers such as Clarks stand to benefit from and older population’ Source:

Mintel – Footwear Retailing UK June 2011

The ageing population could be a beneficial factor for Tuesday Smith, as it will mean anincrease in the call for quality classic footwear.

Another social factor that has dramatically affected fashion retailers during the past year is theRoyal Wedding in April, and the growing popularity of the Duchess of Cambridge since theevent. Clothing and footwear choices of Catherine and Pippa Middleton have completely soldout on many occasions, giving record sales boosts to high-end high-street brands such as Hobbsand Whistles. Their fashion choices have encouraged interest in British brands at home, andfrom foreign customers.

The 2012 Olympics will also bring new business to London and increased interest in Britishcompanies. This must be taken advantage of, through ensuring the business is promoted asclearly and widely as possible, to the visiting international audience, which could lead tooverseas popularity.

TechnologicalThe Internet has become cheaper to have at home, quicker and more widely used, which hashad a great impact on retailing and E-Commerce.

‘Broadband penetration is now at just under 70% of the population’Source: Mintel – E-Commerce Europe 2010

Mintel also reports that online retailing will grow to 45% of total UK sales within the next 4years. It is therefore imperative for any brand, especially a new retailer to priotitise onlineselling. An Internet presence is now expected, and online selling is a very cheap method ofretailing. Technological advances such as the iPad and Smart Phone, have made onlineshopping even more accessible. Brands have been able to cheaply create ‘Apps’ which add anew level of interaction to the retail experience. Social networking, such as Facebook andTwitter is a quick way of communicating information such as new product launches or specialpromotions to thousands of people at once. Blogs, with their dedicated followers, have alsobecome as important as magazine press in the fashion industry. A blogger's opinion can have ahugh impact on a brand's popularity and is great free publicity.

In manufacturing, smart materials are slowly becoming cheaper and more frequently used, butRapid Prototyping is having the greatest influence. It is a very efficient and cheap way ofproducing, saving money and resources, although it will be many years before the technology ischeap enough to be widely used.

RFID tagging is also beginning to have an impact on retail, as a new way of tagging products,reducing theft and saving money.

70

Legal‘Legislation that affects the business environment of the UK has been created and amended insuch a way that the interests of investors are always given priority. This is evident from the factthat domestic and foreign players have shown a continuous commitment towards investing in the

country.’ Source: Verdict - UK Country Analysis Report

The quote shown is a very good summary of the effects the legal system has on business.Although UK banks are less willing to lend, interest from UK and foreign investors remainsstrong and the government continues to realise this. VAT free shopping also continues to makeBritain a more attractive shopping destination for foreigners.

‘Small companies will qualify for tax breaks amounting to 200% of the expenditure on R&D, upfrom 175%.’ Source: Verdict - UK Country Analysis Report

The above incentive is good news for small companies, and may continue to boost businessstart-ups despite the recession.

EnvironmentalThe cost of fuel, and raw materials has continued to soar, which has affected retail in almostevery area. Products have become more expensive to produce and deliver, meaning that retailershave been forced to raise prices.Many companies have invested in ‘green’ measures such as solar power, and also hybridvehicles, which are becoming more popular and helping to reduce the country’s emissions.‘Air pollution in London is the highest in the UK and the country as a whole is among the worst

in terms of air pollution.’ Source: Verdict - UK Country Analysis Report

The government has also waived road tax and congestion charging on such vehicles, meaningthat they are also helping individuals and businesses to save money.The government is also introducing measures to help individuals to produce their ownelectricity, through methods such as solar and wind power. This will all go some way in helpingto reduce the UK’s carbon output, which has become more important than ever since the UKsigned the Kyoto agreement in 2005. Under the agreement, if emissions are not reduced by 50%by 2025, the UK will be fined £300 million.‘The UK will endeavour to reduce its emissions of greenhouse gases by 50% compared with 1990

levels by 2025.’ Source: Verdict - UK Country Analysis Report

Recycling has now become heavily encouraged across the UK, and many companies haveimplemented staff benefits in return for recycling. It has also become important for retailers toshow their efforts to become more environmentally conscious. Reducing the use of plasticcarrier bags is an example of this. Many shops have begun to charge for bags, meaning thatmany customers are choosing to buy and reuse longer lasting canvas bags. This is an option forTuesday Smith, although may be too expensive to start with.

71

Appendix B Primary Consumer Questionnaire & Results

Web Address : http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/YM75Z9N

Appendix C Secondary Consumer Questionnaire & Results

Although 20 Questionnaires were completed, the most useful and noticable results have beenshown to gie an overview of the types of answers that were given.

74

Appendix D Visual Consumer Research

Shown are photographs taken on the streets of London that helped inspire and informthe construction of the consumer profiles shown on pages 19, 20 & 21.

80

Appendix E Extensive Market Mapping

Entire Market Mapping

Custom/Bespoke Market Mapping

The maps shown here have helped to establish where there is a gap in the market, along withwho the brand's competitors are. Keeping the design style between classic and trend leadensures the brand fulfills it's customers want. There are few brand's operating in this area of themarket at the same price level currently, with Beatrix Ong being the closest competitor.

The number ofbrands that areoperating at the

classic/fashiobalelevel in the custom

market is verysmsll, indicating agap in the market.

Brand Range Style Product Price Customer Store(s) E-Commerce

-Online custom women’s retailer, offering customers a choice of styles, colours and materials

Handmade in China

£115 for flats £210 for ankle boots

-From 18 to 60+ -Women who are looking for something unusual, or to match an outfit

Not Applicable -Online only -Quite basic website -Unrealistic images of shoes -Easy to use, but unattractive graphics

-Online ‘bespoke’ women’s shoe retailer -Customer chooses design, colour and fabrics

Handmade in China

£230 for a court £265 for platform court £35 for luxury materials

-From 18 to 60+, majority 28 to 35, and brides! -Fashionable women who are looking to follow a trend, or match an outfit

Not Applicable But Upper Street will help small boutiques and designers to create their own ranges.

-Online only -Easy to use but impressive website -CGI images of shoes, very realistic, but can only see one angle

-Bespoke women’s shoemaker -Artistic, flamboyant designs -Has started a small ready to wear collection

Handmade in the

UK

Prices start at £1645

-Main age from 35 to 50+ -Love to be involved in design process -Investment buys mixed with designer and high street

A bespoke shoemaker so no store, but has just started a ready to wear collection, available to order directly from her.

-Interesting wesbite, well designed. -Imagery is clear and a lot of it -Cannot order online as yet

-Traditional handmade men’s and women’s shoemaker

Handmade in the

UK

Prices start at £2690 + VAT for a simple classic style

-Mainly men, age range from 35 to 80+ -Very wealthy, shop for quality bespoke -Investment buyers, wear forever

Lobb’s store is on Jermyn Street London, a very traditional area, near Saville row, a destination store. Sell some ready- made shoes and accessories here.

-Simple website, cannot order online -Basic information and poor imagery -Not important for Lobbs to have an online presence

-London based handmade mens and womens shoes -Specialise in awkward feet and orthotic footwear -Very traditional styles

Handmade in the UK

Start at £1595

-Men and women, age range from 35 to 80+ -Mainly people with medical consitions, or awkward feet -Investment purchasers

Near Paddington, a destination store, only known to regular customers. Very traditional interior. Sell some ready made here.

-Provides company information -Imagery is basic -Online presence is unimportant, the company survives through word of mouth reputation

-Traditional men’s and women’s -Bespoke, made to order, and ready to wear

Handmade in the

UK

Bespoke start at £1100 Made to order start at £525

-Mainly men, age range from 25 to 50 -Interested in British design -More fashion conscious, mix with designer and high street

Main shop on Jermyn Street, amongst other traditional English brands. Traditional décor, a destination store, appeals to tourists too.

-Provides company information -Easy to use -Simply designed -Cannot buy online

-Womens bespoke shoe maker -Unusual designs, stand-out colours and materials with embellishments

Handmade in UK

Prices start at £1600 for a bespoke shoe and lasts

-Age range from 35 to 60+ -More fashion conscious, mix with designer and high street

Silvia does not have a store or showroom, as the service is bespoke, she visits clients and designs with them

-Shows product and company information -Some product imagery -Poorly designed, not easy to navigate -Cannot shop online

-Bespoke (not the last) women’s and wedding footwear -Also has a small ready to wear collection

Handmade in the

UK

Bespoke start at £480 Ready to wear start at £195

-Mainly fashion conscious brides, looking for personal touches, and detail -Age range 28 to 45

Freya has a small showroom in Islington, London, but is also stocked in 15 bridal boutiques across the UK, Europe and USA

-Beautiful website in company colours -Small product range available to buy online -Gives info, and imagery of bespoke products.

-Bespoke (not the last) women’s and ready to wear -Uses kimono fabric for individual, colourful designs

Handmade in the UK

Bespoke (from a choice of lasts) starts at £350

-Women who love colour and pattern. -Age 25 to 50 -Eccentric style -Love to own something different

Hetty has 12 stockists including 1 in Japan and Italy. She visits bespoke clients, to design and fit shoes with them.

-Plain website, does not fit brand -Difficult to use -Cannot buy online -Basic imagery of products.

Appendix F Competitor Comparison Table

82

-Womens luxury designer, signature ‘island’ platform -Kitsch, retro inspired designs -Collaborates with: Victoria Beckham, Matthew Williamson

Made in Italy

Start at £485 for flats Most popular style ‘Dolly’ (left) costs £608

-Age range 18 to 35 -Trend followers -Shop at stores such as Prada and MiuMiu -Celebrity fans include Sarah Jessica Parker, and Emma Watson.

One small store on Maddox Street, off Bond Street, amongst other small boutiques. With over 50 other stockists globally. Retro inspired décor.

-Well designed website -Entire range sold online -Gives detailed company info

-Luxury women’s designer -Modern silhouettes -Offers made to order in crocodile -Collaborates with designers Rodarte & Erdem

Made in Italy

Average price £595, prices start at £475 for flats

-Age range 25 to 35 -Buy directional designers -Shop at stores such as Jil Sander and Balenciaga

One store on Mount Street London, near to designers such as Smythson and Balenciaga. Modern interior that reflects shoes.

-Beautiful website in company colours -Cannot buy online which puts Kirkwood behind competitors -Gives info, and imagery of bespoke products.

-Luxury women’s shoes -Feminine designs and materials -Modern twist on classic shapes

Made in Italy

Prices start at £375 for flats, up to £785 for boots

-Age range from 25 to 50 -Career women -Enjoy classics but with a twist -Buy quality brands.

4 standalone stores, 2 in London, 1 in Paris and 1 in Hong Kong. All reflect Sanderson’s simplistic, feminine aesthetic.

-Well designed website in company colours -Online store with international courier delivery.

-Luxury women’s shoes -Unusual materials, edge shapes -Now has an affordable range with Debenhams

Made in Italy

Average price £415 Debenhams range starts at £45 to £110 for boots

-Age range 25 to 45 -Buy edgier independent designers. -Like unusual materials.

No store at the moment and no stockists currently as Kelsey did not produce a collection this season

-Website is not easy to use, limited information. -Difficult to see images of products.

-Luxury women’s shoes -Muted colourings but standout architectural silhouettes. -Signature serrated soles.

Made in China

Prices range from £315 for a sandal, to £650 for boots

-Age range 25 to 40 -Like to stand out. -Follow trends and buy brands such as Dominic Jones and Preen.

Over 20 stockists globally and online, no standalone store at the moment.

-Simple website but effective design. -Shoes clearly shown. -Cannot buy online which puts Camilla behind competitors. -Basic company info.

-Exotic materials, python, ostrich etc -Unusual silhouette, almost awkward -Chunky but high heels, use of metal (shown right) -Custom colours & design available in some stores

Made in Brazil

Range from £240 for pumps, to £500 for boots

-Age 27 to 40 -Feminine stand-out style -Buy designers such as Roberto Cavalli

Over 30 stores & stockists globally, with more than half in Brazil, his native country. Stocked in Selfridges & Net-a-porter

-Website is difficult to understand, as it has been translated -Good videos of designer and team at work -Interesting and interactive

-Very unusal style, with emphasis on shapes -Expensive materials used, stingray and python -Complicated constructions

Made in Italy

From £705 for sandals to £1050 for boots

-Age range from 28 to 45 -A LOT of disposable income -Investment buyer who wants to stand out and buy very luxurious items

Stocked in 11 countries, no current standalone store. USA and Italy are main market

-Cannot buy online as yet -Easy to navigate but not very interactive -Basic information

-Uses fabrics a lot -Complicated designs with buckles and straps -Quirky, kitsch edge

£455 for flat pumps, to £1415 for embellished sandal

-From 23 to 45, wide age range, as designs on offer are diverse. -Likes brand-names, and quirky style

Stocked in 17 countries, with the USA as her main market, inc. Neiman Marcus & Bergdorf. No stores of own yet.

-Very interesting website, with videos and a lot of imagery -Can buy online but only a very small number of styles

- High end women’ shoes - Simple shapes with interesting materials - Muted colour palette - Use of embellishements like diamantes to enhance plain styles

Made in Italy

£197 for flat ballet pumps, to £635 for knee high heel boots

-Age range 28 to 50 -Classic dressers, who love to dress up with accessories -Shop high end high street like Reiss but also designers Sandro & See by Chloe

11 UK stockists, 6 of which are in London, 8 global stockists. 2 London stores, that both strongly fit her aesthetic, amongst small boutiques.

-Simple website, gives clear information -E-boutique sells large proportion of range -Imagery of shoes is limited to one angle, which makes it difficult for shoppers

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-Use plain materials a lot -Wood and crepe used in most collections

From £255 for flats, to £390 for high boots

-Age range 20 to 35 -Quirky style, with unusual details -Buy unusual brands like Clements Ribiero, and Missoni

Stocked in most Chloe stores, also in some high end dept. stores

-Good

-Unusual finishes of materials, such as ink wash patent -Strong heels, and metal used

£250 for ballet pumps, to £590 for heeled knee high boots

-Age range 25 to 40 -Quirky style, quite trend focused. -Buy brands like MiuMiu and Sandro

Stocked in most Marc Jacobs stores, of which there are many around the world. Mainly in the USA

-Fantastic website, focusing on the designer -Entire collection available to buy online, shipping worldwide

-Very punky edge, studs and cerrated soles used throughout range -Dark colourings and tough materials

£215 for ballet flats, to £370 for heeled ankle boots

-Age 20 to mid thirties -Punky strong style, -Wear dark colours, and strong shapes -Buy Vivienne Westwood, Acne

Stocked in select dept. stores and boutiques, but also in a selection of his larger standalone stores

-Conceptual website, paying high attention to designers shows -Cannot buy McQ online yet -A lot of images and videos but poor info

-Delicate shapes -Muted colour palette -Classic shapes with unusual textures and cut-out patterns

£110 for wellies, to £480 for knee high heel boots

-Age range from 25 to 60, diverse product style can appeal to many ages -Buy premium and low designer, simple style

Kors has hundreds of stores globally, with many stocking this range, along with dept. stores

-Efficient website typical of such a large brand -Can buy selection of designs online -Good stockists info

-Dark colours and metallics -Simple shapes with bold heels or accessories

From £80 for wellies, to £260 for leather ankle boots

-Young thirties or early 20’s -Buy designer and high street, classic styling with bold accessories

Stocked in many department stores and Donna Karen standalones. Main market is USA, but also Middle East

-Easy to use -Entire collection easy to shop online -Worldwide shipping -Good info and styling imagery

-Traditional womens and mens shoes. -New edgier versions on classic styles, as well as traditional designs. -Reinvents classics each season in new colours/materials. -Owned by PRADA.

Made in the UK and Italy

Prices range from £245 to £370

-Age range 25 to 50 -Like to buy classic -British brands. -Buy modern classics like Church’s new studded brogues.

40 stores in 9 countries. All fit the company aesthetic and are smart, traditionally fitted out. Positioned in upmarket areas amongst suiting and designer shops.

-Simple website, with very limited number of product images. -Cannot buy online, and does not give information of stockists other than standalone stores.

-Women’s and men’s apparel and accessories retailer. -Simple classic design, with unusual detail. -Use of Paul Smith stripe pattern throughout range.

Made in Italy &

Spain

Prices range from £170 to £475 for long boots

-Age range 30 to 50 -Buy British -Career women -Buy classic with unusual detail -Not usually trend followers

Stores in 23 countries with 18 shops in the UK. British aesthetic, to fit the Paul Smith ‘look’

-Simple website but easy to navigate -Online shopping but product range is limited. -More images of products needed.

-High end high street, British company -Classic designs, but range now includes more fashionable pieces -Reinvents classics each season in new colours/materials

Made in Italy

Average price is £119, long boots can go up to £275

-Age range 18 to 60+ -Buy classic shoes that will last -Trust the brand’s reputation for quality

43 stores in the UK, with 13 in London. Positioned amongst other high-end high street and designer stores, such as Fenwicks, who are a stockist.

-Poor website with limited information and imagery. -Cannot buy online which is unusual for the price range of the company

The comp-shop table has been invaluable in helping to analyse who Tuesday Smith's direct andindirect competitors are in terms of style and price.

Custom and bespoke brands have been investigated, along with designer and high-street. It hasbeen determined that it is important for the brand to appeal to a range of ages, widening theproduct's appeal, which is especially important during a recession. Putting focus on thedevelopment of a strong online presence must be taken into account, in a similar way to RupertSanderson and DKNY, as it is now expected that a brand provides online shopping facilities.Also, having a clear brand image and style is important in gaining recognition from customers,especially for a new brand.

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Appendix G Anya Hindmarch Bespoke Interview

Interview Conducted October 22nd with Codie, StoreManager at Anya Hindmarch Bespoke, Pont Street

Who is the A.H.B customer?

"Both men and women, they dont worry about how muchthings cost usually, but they want to get something special.I think luxury consumers are a bit fed up of having thesame as everyone else, even though they spend alot. It'sreally about the products and the quality,and I think ourcustomers recognise that. There are alot of customersbuying presents, men ordering personalised diaries fortheir wives, it's a really lovely original gift. Most of thecustomers are Anya fan's, or have read about the shop, wedon't get many passers buy wandering in as we're on quitea quiet street."

Where are the products produced?

"Anya tries to have as much of the bespoke products makein England, but some of the more special items, like the'ultimate' boxes have to be made abroad because there justisn't the craftsmandship here. They're made in Florence,but with a very small family company, so it's still veryfocused on skill and detail."

What is special about the range?

"We have an original leather called 'London Grain' whichis only available in the bespoke range, making it a little bitmore luxurious, but it's really all about the products beingpersonal. You can have your initials stamped, or a messageor the design can be changed with extra pockets orcompartments. The made-to-measure wallet service isreally special because I don't think anyone else offersanything like it, it's basially designed 100% for the client,exactly as they want it."

Which styles sell best?

"The iPad cases are starting to do really well as morepeople are buying tablets nowadays, but the wallets doamazingly too because they're getting exactly what theywant. Everything does well though, because we get Anyafan's who come in for something that little bit special, orfor a present."

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Appendix H Beatrix Ong Interview

Interview Conducted October 30th with Alice, StoreManager at Newburgh Street Store

Who do you think the Beatrix Ong customer is?

"They are usually young professionals, in their late 20s orearly 30s, but the customer range goes up to late 40s.About half of the women come here already knowing whatthey want, or they have bought Beatrix's shoes before, butwe also get about the same amount of customers who justwalk past and have never heard of the brand, which Ithink is quite good for spreading the word."

What is the style of the customer?

"They appreciate elegant lines, and simple design. Theyare sophisticated women, they enjoy art and culture, and Isuppose those interests carry on when they come into theshop"

What are they looking for in the collection?

"They definately want the shoes to be comfortable, and weget alot of comments about that. They want them to last,and they notice that our quality is better than alot of otherbrands who sell at the same sort of price levels."

Which styles sell best?

"The Jefferson boot is the best seller, we bring it back everyyear. Our customers like the elasticated back, because itmeans the boots always fit well and are comfortablearound the calf, I think alot of women nowadays haveproblems finding longer boots that fit their leg properly"

What do the customers want that the brand is maybenot providing at the moment?

"Alot of ladies complain about the shoes being too high,even though our styles are mostly lower than alot of theother designers. If you are going to sell to a woman in her40s, they dont want to be wearing a 4 inch heel, or even a 3inch is difficult. If they want to wear them all day, they justarent comfortable and they dont want to put up with thepain like young girls! They want more plain pumps too,because alot of them take a pair in their bag to work andswap from their heels."

Best Seller :

Jefferson Boot £520

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As a small design company, officelocation needs to be appropriate to thesize of the brand.

Cockpit Arts in Holborn, and alsoDeptford is a cluster space of studioshome to 165 designer-makers.

Charity funded, Cockpit Arts providesongoing business support and advice forit's residents, and hosts open-studioevenings where the public are invited tosee the designers at work and buy theirproducts.

Being located amongst other creativepeople would be very inspirational, andopen up opportunities for collaborations.Being involved with Cockpit also boostspublicity for the designers, as the charityis regularly involved with London DesignWeek, and industry competitions.

Rent is very reasonable for centralLondon, at £229.83 per month for 100ft2

including water, heating and servciecharges. For a small studio space,acommodating storage for materials andmachinery, 200ft2 of studio space shouldbe ample, providing a studio this size isavailable.

A central London location would be idealfor travel, and proximity to suppliers andpress.

Approximate Monthly Costing

Rent £459.66(including water, heatingand sev. charge)

Internet & Phone £26.95(TalkTalk)

Electricity £60.00

Total £546.61

Appendix I Location

87

86

WGSN

River Island A/W 11/12

Covered

Uniform Sizing

Michael K

ors A/W

11/12

Valentino A

/W 11/12

GucciA/W 11/12

Giuseppe Zanotti

Crystal Covered

Appendix J Further A/W 12/13 Trend Analysis

88

Woven

89

Metallic Collage

90

WGSN

WGSN

Blended Colouring

'While the classic tones of gray or lilac may look a bit too dull, almost boring to some, they havebeen brought to life by matching them with darker and more intense tonalities, either in the same

graded color or totally changing hue, passing for example from green to blue...'Source : www.gleni.it - Linea Pelle Trends

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Transparent Nudity

92

Appendix J Retail Positioning

The retail positioning has been included as an appendix as the primary channel ofdistribution of the Tuesday Smith range is through the online shop and custom service.

As referred to on page 8, the brand will also aim to gain a position on the websitewww.frombritainwithlove.co.uk, which represents companies who solely produce inBritain, and work with traditional craft methods. The website gains regular coverage in thepress, from magazines such as Red, and newpapers such as The Times. This would widenthe audience of the brand, helping to establish the name, and give potential customersinformation and reassurance about the company.

www.notonthehighstreet.com is a similar website, upon which brands are able sell a rangeof their products, as well as linking directly back to their own website. The site is veryselective over the brands it will list, checking quality vigilantly. It is therefore very trustedand has a rapidly growing fan-base. Such websites may help the brand to promote itself toan entirely new consumer group that may not hear about it through other channels.Although Tuesday Smith is a lower-level-luxury brand, such sites may suit the conceptbecause of it's emphasis on supporting craft. Being listed on these websites would be aninexpensive way of beginning the brand promotion stage, and should be an immediateobjective, as well as promoting the brand's own online custom store.

As previously discussed, the pricing of the range falls below competitors such as RupertSanderson, although style and quality will be at a similar level. As a new luxury brand, itshould primarily aim to secure sales with smaller boutiques that have a good reputation inthe UK, such as Brown's in London. This store stocks a large number of British brands,and its dedicated footwear store would introduce the range to luxury shopppers. Brandsstocked currently include Rupert Sanderson, Stella McCartney, and Nicholas Kirkwood.Sitting alongside such renowned labels would be beneficial in raising the profile of theTuesday Smith label.

As a longer term goal as the brand grows, being stocked in a department store such asLiberty, or Fenwicks would be excellent product placement for the brand. Such storeshave srtong siginifcance in British retail , and attract forgein shoppers for their mix ofquality brands, many of which are British. Liberty's strong arts and craft history continuesto influence the product mix stocked today, with British labels such as Paul Smith, JohnSmedley and Mulberry forming part of the store's huge range. Tuesday Smith could be ofinterest to the store for it's similar craft ethos and detailed, but luxurious aesthetic.

As a distant goal, gaining overseas stockists would widen the brand's audience evenfurther. Stores such as the prestigious Bon Marche in Paris would have a very beneficialimpact on the brand's reputation. Although, as a primary brand value is that TuesdaySmith is British, selling to overseas stockists must only be considered when the brand isestablished and prepared, and the business can cope with the extra pressure this couldlead to.

The retail positioning of the brand will alter as the brand grows, but it is important toprimarily aim to establish the concept and promote the brand-name. Increasing thenumber stockists must not be permitted unless the brand is capable with keeping up withproduction demand. Therefore, the brand must not jeopardise it's own survival withextravagant aims, allowing slow but steady growth for long-term success.

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94

PPD

The project has been personally challenging in several ways.

Firstly, getting back into the mindset of being at college difficultafter a year out, but I enjoyed starting a project that I feltpassionate about.

Although I have had experience of writing business reports andsimilar work in the past, focusing on the concept of my brand wasquite alien to me. Keeping within the word count limit provednear impossible, and I found it difficult to cover the necessarypoints concisely, without being too brief. This was especiallydifficult as there are so many facets to my brand concept.

Based on past experience, I have aimed to work in a more efficientmanner, which has been a good learning curve to find out whatworks for me. I collated inspirational research on boards, whichworked well as I could see the direction the imagery was taking mein.

I have used computer programs to mindmap, and create to-do listswhich was very useful, as I tend to lose my paper lists often. Suchprograms save alot of confusion and time, keeping me organised. Icreated a comprehensive critical path, which I managed to stick towell. This was extremely useful as it also acted as a large checklistfor the entire unit.

In deciding how to improve and alter my way of working for nextterm, I am definately going to continue making the most of mycomputer. Zotero is a useful referencing tool that I unfortunatelydiscovered too late into this term to use it to its full.

I am keen to engross myself in my design research, and especiallythe 3D development of my range, learning about marquetry inorder to use the method well and with skill.

I have become very passionate about my concept and brand, andaim to build the website, so I can actually sell products I havemade online.

Although the concept proposal is now complete, I intend to stayinterested in the 'Buy British' and custom trends, to keep up-to-date with what is happening in the market. The project has been avery personal journey, combining my own interests and passions,as well as my business knowledge. I aim to continue into the finalUniversity project with the same commitment and determination,to ensure I am truly happy with the final range and portfolio.Making a thorough plan including timescales and personaldeadlines is something I intend to do to help keep completely ontrack.

BibliographyBooks

Adams, K. & Brace, I. (2006) Introduction to market & social research : planning & using research tools & techniquesLondon : Kogan Page

Ashton, R. (2009) How to start your own business for entrepreneuresHarlow : Pearson Prentice Hall Business

Burke, S. (2008) Fashion entrepreneur : starting your own fashion businessLondon : Burke Publishing

Chevalier, M. & Mazzalovo, G. (2008) Luxury brand management : a world of privilegeSingapore : John Wiley & Sons

Drew, L. (1992) Business of fashionNew York : Cambridge University Press

Edwards, H. & Day, D. (2005) Creating passion brands : getting to the heart of brandingLondon : Kogan Page

Randall, G. (2000) Branding : a practical guide to planning your strategyLondon : Kogan Page

Stevens, R.E. (et al) (c2006) Market opportunity analysis : texts and casesNew York : Best Business Books

Online Resources

Articles

<http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-11579979> Spending Review 2010 : George Osborne wields the axe 20thOctober 2011, Accessed October 21st 2011

<http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-15324901> Occupy London : Protest continues 16th October 2011, AccessedNovember 1st 2011

<http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-15551818> Buy British : Why isn't there a new campaign? 8th November 2011,Accessed November 9th 2011

Reports

Mintel:

Consumer Attitudes Towards Luxury Goods, US (March 2011)

E-Commerce, Europe (February 2010)

Fashion Accessories, UK (June 2011)

Fashion Online, UK (March 2011)

Footwear Retaling, UK (June 2011)

Women's Fashion Lifestyles, UK (May 2011)

WGSN:

A/W 2012/2013 Footwear Trends & Colour Predictions

UK News : Changing Consumer Habits

Future Consumer Forecast 2013

Verdict/Datamonitor:

The UK, Country Analysis

Design Council, Business Guides <http://www.designcouncil.org.uk/resources-and-events/Business-and-public-sector/Guides/> Accessed November 12th 2011

Websites

www.frombritainwithlove.co.uk Accessed November 4th 2011www.marketingweek.co.uk Accessed November 4th 2011http://www.gleni.it/blog/linea-pelle-trends-and-colors-in-exotic-leather/ Accesed Bovember 7th 2011

Image Referencing

Page 8Made In Britain Logohttp://www.marketingweek.co.uk/sectors/retail/made-in-britain-logo-launched/3028495.article AccessedNovember 1st 2011From Britain With Love Manifestohttp://www.frombritainwithlove.com/about-us AccessedNovember 1st 2011

Page 11Hermes Custom Scarveshttp://uk.hermes.com/woman.html?combination=2Accessed November 5th 2011Prada Custom Bag & Sunglasseshttp://customize.prada.com/en/US/bags AccessedNovember 5th 2011http://customize.prada.com/en/US/eyewear/eyewear-woman Accessed November 5th 2011

Page 12Larinhttp://www.bylarin.com/content/13-all-ornamentsAccessed November 9th 2011http://www.bylarin.com/content/28-clicktwist-instructions Accessed November 9th 2011Nike I.Dhttp://store.nike.com/gb/en_gb/product/lunar-glide-3-shield-id-running-shoe/?piid=22180#?pbid=2358778Accessed November 20th 2011Converse Customhttp://www.converse.co.uk/#/products/shoes/converseOne/scratch/all Accessed November 21st 2011

Pages 13 & 14All Imageshttp://www.anyahindmarch.com/BespokePage/landingAccessed October 30th 2011

Page 19Clothinghttp://www.net-a-porter.com, http://www.cosstores.com/, http://www.reissonline.com/Accessed November 3rd 2011Dulwich Homehttp://www.narratives.co.uk/Details.aspx?ID=24118&TypeID=1&searchtype=&contributor=0&licenses=1,2&sort=REL&cdonly=False&mronly=False&images=True&video=True&documents=True AccessedOctober 31st 2011CustomerOriginal Photograph Taken London, October 10th 2011

Page 20Clothinghttp://www.net-a-porter.com, http://www.jaeger.co.uk/,http://www.hobbs.co.uk/ Accessed November 3rd 2011

Bath Photographhttp://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=bath&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=702&tbm=isch&tbnid=A2xO-3dPzEv3kM:&imgrefurl=http://www.great-britain.co.uk/regions/central/2011bath.htm&docid=oCIFvo6Ab6VFuM&imgurl=http://www.great-britain.co.uk/regionscentralbath4.jpg&w=459&h=284&ei=88vTTqeqK8mmhAfvlqzbDQ&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=246&sig=117590416854325004762&page=2&tbnh=141&tbnw=207&start=15&ndsp=17&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:15&tx=70&ty=43 AccessedNovember 3rd 2011

CustomerOriginal Photographs Taken London, October 10th2011

Page 21Clothinghttp://www.net-a-porter.com/http://www.cosstores.com/http://www.frenchconnection.com/category/woman/woman.htmhttp://www.zara.com/All Accessed November 2ndCustomerOriginal Photograph Taken, London October 11thAngel HomeOriginal Photograph Taken, London October 14thTube Signhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/39206030@N04/3617166429/ AccessedNovember 2nd

Page 25 & 26All Imageshttp://upperstreet.com/ Accessed November 8th2011

Page 27 & 28All Imageshttp://www.freyarose.co.uk/ Accessed November 8th2011

Page 29 & 30All Imageshttp://www.beatrixong.com/ Accessed November8th 2011

Page 31 & 32All Imageshttp://www.penelopechilvers.com/ AccessedNovember 8th 2011

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Page 33All Imageshttp://www.rupertsanderson.com/ AccessedNovember 8th 2011

Page 34Kate Middletonhttp://www.elleuk.com/starstyle/style-files/(section)/kate-middleton/(offset)/36/(img)/781715 AccessedNovember 9th 2011Freida Pintohttp://www.runningwithheels.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/freida-pinto-2901.jpg AccessedNovember 9th 2011

Page 35All Imageshttp://alexandrebirman.com.br/ Accessed November10th 2011

Page 36Kate Hudsonhttp://www.vstyleblog.com/my_weblog/2010/01/kate-hudson-in-chanel-at-nine-premiere-in-new-york.html Accessed November 2nd 2011Olivia Palermohttp://www.mtv.com/photos/mtv-style-hot-shoes/1641902/5195003/photo.jhtml AccessedNovember 10th 2011

Page 37All Imageshttp://www.net-a-porter.com/Shop/Shoes/All?designerFilter=Marc_by_Marc_Jacobs All AccessedNovember 2nd 2011

Page 38All Imageshttp://www.net-a-porter.com/Shop/Shoes/All?designerFilter=See_by_Chloe All AccessedNovember 2nd 2011

Page 45http://www.rupertsanderson.com/new-arrivalsAccessed November 11th 2011http://www.anyahindmarch.com/page/ThingsAnyaLoves Accessed November 11th 2011

Page 80All original photographs taken in London, 30thOctober 2011

Page 85http://www.anyahindmarch.com/BespokePage/landingAccessed October 30th 2011

Page 86http://www.beatrixong.com/ Accessed October 20th2011

Page 87Cockpit Artshttp://www.cockpitarts.com/ Accessed October 20th2011

All trend images sourced from WGSN &net-a-porter, Accessed 4th November 2011

concept development

Documents

design concept

product concept conclusion46

d visual consumer research

product costing

web design

contentsthe range

product lifecycle

range structure pricing