compare the warp and weft knitted structures

7/28/2019 Compare the Warp and Weft Knitted Structures

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COMPARE

THE WARPAND WEFT

KNITTEDSTRUCTURES


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Weft knit fabrics

All weft knits fall into three basic categories: rib knits, which are a combination of knit and purlstitches; purl knits, which are made with purl stitches alone, and jersey knits, which are made

with knits stitches on the front and purl stitches on

the reverse (see the drawings above).

Double knit

Description: Made with two sets of yarns, thisdouble-constructed fabric has fine ribs running

lengthwise on both sides. Usually looks same on

fabrics face and reverse, making it reversible.

Fancy double knits may have novelty stitch onfabrics face and fine ribs on reverse.

Properties: Heavy, firm; usually has almost no

stretch in either direction. Good shape retention;

cut edges dont curl.Best use: Tailored garments, like jackets, suits, or

sheath dresses. If particular double knit has somecrosswise stretch, adjusting pattern (by cutting itslightly smaller in body girth) may be necessary.

InterlockDescription: Compound fabric made by inter-

knitting, or interlocking, two simple ribbed

fabrics, each made with single yarn. Has fine ribs

running lengthwise. Fabrics face and reverse looksame, making it reversible.

Properties: Almost no lengthwise stretch; more

crosswise stretch than double knits or jerseys;fairly good shape retention. Raw or cut edges dont

curl; unravels only from end last knitted.

Best use: Wonderful for T-shirts, turtlenecks,casual skirts and dresses, and childrens wear.

Because of its crosswise stretch, use pattern

designed for interlock knits, or be prepared toadjust pattern.


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Jersey knit

Description: Also referred to as plain knit or

single knit. Has distinct right and wrong sides, with

fine ribs running lengthwise on fabrics face, and

semicircular loops running across reverse. Many

variations of stitches and fibers create wide varietyof single knits, ranging from delicate openwork toheavy, thick piled fabric.

Properties: Little or no lengthwise stretch, varying

amounts of crosswise stretch. Curls to fabricsright side; cut edges unravel only from end knitted

last. Best use: Jersey with little or no crosswise or

lengthwise stretch (like most wool jerseys) can be

used for skirts, blouses, and dresses without patternadjustments. Jersey with crosswise stretch requires pattern adjustments or pattern designed for

crosswise stretch.

Purl knitDescription: Double-faced, reversible fabricproduced by intermeshed rows of knit and purlstitches, which appear as loops in crosswise

direction. Sometimes called Links-Links, from

the German word links (left), since knitting

machines mechanism always moves to left.

Properties: Usually heavy and bulky; stretches in

both directions. Cut edges do not curl.

Best use: Sweater-type garments, outerwear.

Rib knitDescription: Double-faced, reversible fabric withdistinct vertical ribs on both sides, produced by

alternating knit and purl stitches. Ribs can be small

(1x1, that is, one knit stitch followed by one purlstitch), thick, (2x2 or 3x3), or uneven (1x3, for

example).

Properties: Little or no lengthwise stretch, but lotsof crosswise stretch and good, natural recovery.

Cut edges do not curl.

Best use: Because of its elasticity, ideal for

trimming other knits (and wovens). Garmentsmade from rib knits are usually close-fitting and

therefore use a pattern designed for knits.

Warp knit fabrics


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Because of the multiple-needle configuration of warp-knitting machines, the warp knit fabrics

produced can be very complex and intricate in structure; and they dont fall neatly into groups or

categories as weft knits do.

Milanese

Description: Made from two sets of yarns knitteddiagonally. Face has fine vertical rib, and reverse

has diagonal structure.

Properties: Lightweight, drapey, smooth texture,extremely run-resistant.

Best use: Historically used for gloves and lingerie;

makes lovely, soft blouses and eveningwear. May

be a little difficult to find, but worth looking for.

RaschelDescription: Raschel-knitting machine produces

wide variety of fabrics and can incorporateconventional or novelty yarns, thereby creating

interesting textures and surface designs. Knits canbe fine and lacey, highly patterned, and even piled.

Properties: Runs gamut from dense and compact

to open and lofty; can be either stable or stretchy,

and single-faced or reversible.

Best use: Almost any garment. Assessing amount

of stretch, give, and recovery in a raschel knit is

essential, since its nature is so diverse.

TricotDescription: Face has fine lengthwise ribs; reversehas crosswise ribs. Some machines can produce

complex patterns, and some can incorporate a weft

insertion (extra yarn inserted crosswise) for addedtexture or color.

Properties: Some lengthwise stretch; almost no

crosswise stretch. Usually soft and drapey; cut

edges tend to curl.

Best use: Besides traditional use for lining and

lingerie, can be used for blouses and dresses. Its

essential to assess stretch of particular tricot for

given project.

More knit samples


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Silk jersey interlock knit Acetate slinky rib knit

Nylon/lycra metallic rib knit Rayon interlock

Linen/viscose single knit jersey Nylon raschel

compare the warp and weft knitted structures

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