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Gosmart LtdCOLOUR

CORRECTION BASICS

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Occasionally mistakes can happen

This can result from e.g.;

•The client not informing you of previous colour

•Errors mixing colours

•Inexperience

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You need to know about the colour star

You need to understand the ICC numbers of

the tint manufacturer

You need to understand what happens when

two colours are mixed together

Being able to correct colour

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This is a guide to understanding the basics of

colour correction

Understanding what possibly went wrong in the

first place

Understanding the basics of what to do to correct

it

Basics

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In hairdressing we work on the principal that all colour is obtained from THREE primary colours.

Can you list these colours before you move on?

1

2

3

Where does colour come from?

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If you didn’t already know the three primary colours used are;

RED

YELLOW

BLUE

And all other colours are obtained by mixing these colours together in certain ways

The Three Primary colours in Hairdressing

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Thinking back to art in school can you remember;1. What happens if you mix red paint and

yellow paint together?2. What happens when you mix red and blue

together?3. What happens if you mix yellow and blue

together?

What Happens If ?

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1. ORANGE2. PURPLE3. GREEN

Then, depending how much red is mixed with yellow would give is varying degrees of Orangee.g. If you mix a small amount of red with a larger amount of yellow, the result would be along the lines of a very light orangeThe colour star below demonstrates this principal.

The Results !

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The Colour Star

,3

,2

,1

,5 & ,6

,

,4

,7

Red / Yellow

Blue / Yellow

Red / Blue

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Of course in Hairdressing we wouldn’t normally call our colours Orange, or Purple, or Green.

Can you guess what we would say; Orange = Gold,Red = Warm,Green/Blue = Cool tones or Ash or Matt

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You can see from this diagram how the more of one primary colour you add the more effect it has on the next one

Yellow (gold)

Blue (ash)

Red (warm)

Copper

Green (Matt ash)

Mahogany& Violet

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Looking at the colour star, the colour on the opposite side cancels out e.g.

Red cancels out Green

Blue cancels out Orange

Mauve cancels out yellow

Basic Colour cancellation

And Visa-Versa

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So;Now that you know this principal and studying colour star;If you have a client who has a slight green tinge to her hair, what colour would you use to cancel out the green?If you have a client whose hair is slightly too warm, what would you do?Always consider how much green or red etc. is present before deciding how much of the colour you would introduce to cancel it out.

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Cool Tones Warm Tones

.0Deep Basic

.7Green Ash

.1Blue Ash

.2Mauve

.3Golden

.4Copper

.5Mahogany

.6Red

10 Lightest Blonde

9 Very Light

Blonde

8 Light Blonde

8.3Light Golden Blonde

7 Blonde

6 Dark Blonde

5 Light Brown

4 Brown 4.45Copper Mahogany

Brown

3 Dark Brown

2 Darkest Brown

1 Black

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Now you have got the principals of colour cancellation, look at the numbering system on the ICC colour numbering workbook and assume your client has a depth of 7.

In the previous exercise put numbers to the tones you would possibly introduce to cancel the green.

Put numbers to the tones you would possibly introduce to cancel out too much warmth

Next Stage !

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All the above are basic principals, from here it is experience building, asking stylists and

watching what happens.

Once you have grasped this, even if you don’t have

a colour chart to hand you can, faced with any

problem with a clients hair colour, simply ask

yourself;

What colour do I want to eliminate?

You’re getting there !

With the colour I want to eliminate, which colour is missing from the primary colour range

That’s the colour I need to introduce e.g. you want to get rid of green,

BLUE & YELLOW make green, out of the PRIMARY colours, RED is

missing – THAT’S THE COLOUR TO INTRODUCE! HOW MUCH ? YOU

DECIDE !

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