colored cosmetics_lipsticks

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Page 1: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks
Page 2: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Points to be studied?

�Definition

�Characteristics of lipsticks

�Composition

� Formulation related problems� Formulation related problems

�Moulding related problems

�Evaluation of finished products

�Marketed products

Page 3: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

• Also called as lip cosmetics, widely used by women.

• It may be refer as color cosmetics.

• Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments,

oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color and

DEFINITION

oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color and

texture to the lips.

• There are many varieties of lipstick.

• Lippy is a common British word for lipstick.

Page 4: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Characteristics of Lipsticks� Should cover lips adequately

� Long last effect

� Make lips soft

� Must adhere firmly to lips without being brittle & tacky

� Good degree of quality

� Completely free from grittiness

� Non- drying � Non- drying

� Non- irritating to skin of lips

� Desirable degree of plasticity

� Should have high retention of colors intensity without any change in shades

� Pleasant odor & flavor

� Free from sweating

� Shiny & smooth appearance

� Easily applicable & removable

� Stable both physically & chemically

Page 5: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Composition

� Wax mixture

� Oil mixture

� Bromo mixture

� Colors� Colors

� Preservatives

� Fragrance

� Antioxidants

� Surfactants & other additives

Page 6: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

WAXES

�The gloss & hardness are generally depends

on characteristics & quantity of waxes

�Best characteristic is obtained by using

mixture of waxes of different m.p & adjusting mixture of waxes of different m.p & adjusting

the final m.p. by incorporating a sufficient

amount of high m.p. wax.

Page 7: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Various waxes used in lipstick

Wax M.P % Purpose

Cetostearyl alcohol 42-45 2-3 Emollient

Cetyl alcohol 45-50 2-3 Emollient

Ceresin wax 60-75 5-20 Increase m.p.

5-20 Bind oils & higher m.p. waxesWhite beeswax 62-64 5-20 Bind oils & higher m.p. waxes

Candelilla wax 65-69 5-10 Gives smooth & glossy appearance

Carnauba wax 80-88 1-3 Imparts rigidity & hardness

Hard paraffin 50 - 57 1-5 Improves gloss

Soft paraffin 38 – 56 1-5 Lubricant, increase spreadability

Page 8: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

OILS• The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to

provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin.

• Also acts as solvent in some formulation.

• Acts as dispersing agent for insoluble pigments.

• The ideal mixture of oil should produce the product, easily spread &

produce a thin film with good covering power.produce a thin film with good covering power.

• Examples:

– Castor oil

– Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol (THFA) & esters

– Fatty acid alkylamides

– Paraffin oil

– Isopropyl myristate

– Isopropyl palmitate

– Butyl stearate

Page 9: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

BROMO MIXTURE

• Maintain the physical form of the formulation

• Also called as bromo acids

• Two classes:

– Red : gives red or reddish blue stain

– Orange , red : gives pink to yellowish pink stain – Orange , red : gives pink to yellowish pink stain

• About 2-3% bromo acids are used in lipstick

• Solvent used to be mixed with bromo acids:

– Castor oil & butyl stearate

– THFA & esters like acetate, stearate & benzoate

– Glyceryl monostearate or monolaurate & diethylene glycol monostearate

– PG or PEG

Page 10: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

• Examples of bromo mixture:

– Bromo acid : 15 gm

– PG : 200gm

– PG monomyristate : 100 gm

• Procedure:

– Mix bromo acid solution & PG (for clearing each other)

– Add PG monomyristate

– Which gives bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil &

castor oil & produces a homogenous mass with waxes.

Page 11: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

COLORS

• Most important from commercial & appearance point of view.

• In olden days, carmine was widely used, but nowadays various

other are available.

• Color in lipstick is imparted by two ways:

– By staining the skin with soln of dyestuff which can penetrate the – By staining the skin with soln of dyestuff which can penetrate the

outer layer of skin ---- SOLUBLE DYES

– By covering the lips with a colored layer which serves to hide any

skin roughness & give a smooth appearance ---- INSOLUBLE

DYES

Page 12: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

• Soluble Dyes / Staining Dyes :

– Example:

• Fluorescein,

• Eosin

• Insoluble Dyes / Nonstaining Dyes / lake colors :• Insoluble Dyes / Nonstaining Dyes / lake colors :

– Example:

• Lakes of Calcium, Barium, Aluminium, Strontium

• Used in 10 – 15 % concentration based on shade

• TiO2 is generally used in conc. of 1% for pink shade

Page 13: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

PRESERVATIVES

• Used to prevent microbial growth

• Example:

– 0.1% propyl parahydrohybenzoate in 0.1%

• Higher conc. of preservative can cause slightly burning

sensation or allergic reaction.

Page 14: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

FRAGRANCE

• Essential component of lipstick

• Used to mask bad odor of fatty or wax

• Used to impart attractive flavor

• Conc. 2-4% • Conc. 2-4%

• Qualities for selection:

– Free from irritating effect

– Free from disagreeable taste

– Stable & compatible with other ings.

Page 15: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

ANTIOXIDANTS

• Incorporated to prevent rancidification of oily base

during storage.

• Generally used in combination

• Example: • Example:

– BHA,

– BHT,

– Propyl gallate,

– Citric acid

Page 16: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

SURFACTANTS & OTHER ADDITIVES

• SURFACTANTS :Used to promote wetting & stabilize the

dispersion of insoluble pigments in lipstick base

• ADDITIVES: used for various purposes

– Oil - soluble sunscreen: filter the sunrays & protect lip skin from sun

burn.

– Silicon fluid: used as fixative & prevent colors, from bleeding on lips.

– PVP: (conc. 0.5 – 1%) film former on lips & reduce allergic reaction of

other ings. in lipstick.

– Isopropyl linoleate: prevent drying effect.

Page 17: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Formula & Procedure

Ingredients Quantity Given

Carnauba Wax 10

Lanolin 5

Cetyl Alcohol 5

Castor Oil 65

Bromo Acid 2% of base weight

Colour Pigment (FeO + TiO2) 5% of base weight

Perfume q.s.

Bees Wax 15

Page 18: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

General Manufacturing Process

• Steps involved:

– Melting and mixing

– Molding

– Labeling and packaging

Page 19: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Defects in lipstick

• Formulation related

– Sweating

– Bleeding

• Mould related

– Laddering

– Deformation

– Blooming

– Streaking

– Seams

– Catering

– Mushy Failure

Page 20: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

• Sweating:

– Most common problem.

– Caused due to high oil content or

inferior oil-blending capacity of the wax inferior oil-blending capacity of the wax

composition.

– It may arise in any climate or temp.

range

Page 21: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

• Bleeding:

– Separation of coloured liquids from the waxy

base.

– It leads to extremely uneven color

FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

– It leads to extremely uneven color

distribution

Page 22: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

• Blooming:

– When the surface of the lipstick appears dull instead

of desired gloss is called as the problem of blooming.

– It is chiefly due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol

FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

– It is chiefly due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol

(> 5%)

Page 23: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

• Streaking:

– A thin line or band of different color or substances

appears to the surface of finished products.

– Problem arise due to separation of suspended

FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

– Problem arise due to separation of suspended

particles.

Page 24: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

• Seams:

– Marks left on the lipsticks when split moulds are used.

– They are caused either due to brittle masses or due

to faulty cooling technique.

FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMSFORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

to faulty cooling technique.

Page 25: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

•• Laddering:Laddering:

– Product has a ladder like appearance

– It does not look smooth or homogeneous

after congealing & setting but instead a

MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMSMOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

multilayered appearance.

– Occur due to either mould is kept at a

very low temperature or when bulk

formulation is not hot enough or filling

rate is slow.

Page 26: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

•• Deformation:Deformation:

– The shape of the lipstick looks

deformed.

– It is most noticeable in softer

MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMSMOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

– It is most noticeable in softer

formulae.

– Can appear on side of the

lipstick or on both the sides.

Page 27: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

•• Catering:Catering:

– This effect is mostly found in split

mouldings.

– It shows up in flaming when the stick

MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMSMOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

– It shows up in flaming when the stick

develops dimples (spots).

– The main cause is the presence of trace

amounts of silicone oils or machinery

lubrication oil from manufacturing mixtures

or the dispenser mixture.

Page 28: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

•• Mushy Failure:Mushy Failure:

– The central core of the stick lacks

structure & breaks.

– The problem is not related to

MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMSMOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

– The problem is not related to

particular formula or particular shade.

– The granularity caused by carnauba

wax could be the reason for this

problem.

Page 29: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Quality control of Lipsticks Quality control of Lipsticks

• QC procedures are strict

• The only cosmetic ingested, because of this strict controls on

ingredients & manufacturing processes, are imposed.

• Mixed and processed in a controlled environment so it will be • Mixed and processed in a controlled environment so it will be

free of contamination.

• Incoming material is tested to ensure that it meets required

specifications.

• Samples of every batch produced are saved and stored at

room temperature for the life of the product

Page 30: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

EVALUATION OF FINISHED PRODUCTSEVALUATION OF FINISHED PRODUCTS

�Color control

�Determination of Melting Point (Heat Test )

�Softening Point�Softening Point

�Microbial Testing

�Rancidity

�Rupture Test

�Breaking Load Test.

Page 31: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Color controlColor control

• Color control of lipstick is critical, and one only has to see the range of

colors available from a manufacturer to be aware of this.

• The dispersion of the pigment is checked stringently when a new batch is

manufactured, and the color must be carefully controlled when the lipstick

mass is reheated.

• Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some control on the shades of

lipstick.

• This equipment gives a numerical reading of the shade, when mixed, so it

can identically match previous batches.

• Matching of reheated batches is done visually, so careful time and

environment controls are placed on lipstick mass when it is not immediately

used.

Page 32: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

DETERMINATION OF M.P.DETERMINATION OF M.P.

• The lipstick base should have a M.P. between

55 - 750C. (600 C ideal)

• METHOD:

– Sample- approx. 50 mg

– Melt & fill into a glass capillary tube open

on both the ends.on both the ends.

– Cool the capillary tube with ice for 2 hours

– Fasten the capillary tube to a thermometer.

– Place a beaker full of water on a heating

plate with a magnetic stirrer.

– Start heating & stirring at slow & fixed

speed.

– The temp at which material moves along

the capillary tube is considered its M.P

Page 33: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

SOFTENING POINTSOFTENING POINT

• A lipstick should withstand the range of conditions to

which it will subjected in the consumers handbag.

• It should be resistant to varying temp & be just as easy

to apply in the hot as in cold weather.to apply in the hot as in cold weather.

• Softening point range 50-550C.

• Method:

– Ring and Ball method

– Second Method

Page 34: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

SOFTENING POINTSOFTENING POINT

Ring & Ball MethodRing & Ball Method

• A ring or support orifice is taken & the lipstick to be tested is inserted into it.

• Extra mass above & below the orifice is removed using a sharp blade leaving

a tablet of lipstick fitted into the ring.

• This is placed in refrigerator (60C) for about 10 min.

• Ring is tied onto a stand or bar.

Page 35: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

SOFTENING POINTSOFTENING POINT

Ring & Ball MethodRing & Ball Method

• A beaker containing 500 ml water at

room temp. is placed on a hot plate

having a magnetic stirrer.

• A steel ball is delicately placed on the

lipstick tablet.lipstick tablet.

• The bar is with support is then inserted

into the beaker till it submerges into it.

• Heating & slow agitation is then begun.

Temp is monitored using a thermometer.

• The temp at which the lipstick mass &

steel balls are loosened & falls to the

bottom of the beaker is the S.P.

Page 36: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

SOFTENING POINTSOFTENING POINT

Another methodAnother method

• The whole lipstick along with its stand is kept in a long

flat bottom tube.

• Care should be taken that the lipstick is in a protruded

position & the bulb of the thermometer just touches the position & the bulb of the thermometer just touches the

lipstick mass.

• Place this setup in a 1 liter beaker filled with water to a

level 1 cm above the upper up of the protruding lipstick.

• Start heating water very slowly (@1-20C/min).

• The temp at which the lipstick start bending & deforming

from its shape is the S.P.

Page 37: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

MICROBIAL TESTINGMICROBIAL TESTING

• Contamination from raw materials, moulds, storage kettles

or lipstick container can lead to microbial growth.

• Microbial testing is suggested in IS:9875:1990,

• The test consists of plating a known mass of the sample on

two selected culture media specifically suitable for the

growth of bacteria & fungi & incubating them for a specified

period to permit the development of visual colonies for

counting.

• The limit is, not more than 100 µo/gm.

Page 38: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

RANCIDITYRANCIDITY

• Rancidification is the decomposition of fats, oils and

other lipids by hydrolysis or oxidation.

• Is the oxidation of castor oil or other waxy or lipoidal

ingredients.ingredients.

• It leads to obnoxious odor, bad taste & sticky product &

sometimes change of color of the product.

• Testing of rancidity can be done by determining its

peroxide number.

Page 39: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

BREAKING LOAD TESTBREAKING LOAD TEST

• The test is to find out the value of

maximum load that a lipstick can withstand

before it breaks.

• The protruded lipstick salve is subjected to

a number of weights hanging from it.

• The weight at which the lipsticks breaks is

its Breaking Load.

Page 40: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

BREAKING LOAD TESTBREAKING LOAD TEST

• Weights can be replaced by using

increasing increments of water

from a burette.

Page 41: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Rupture TestRupture Test

� In the Rupture Test, the lipstick is placed in two holders,

in the extended position.

� Weight is added to the holder on the lipstick portion at

30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures. 30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures.

� The pressure required to rupture the lipstick is then

checked against the manufacturer's standards.

� Since there are no industry standards for these tests,

each manufacturer sets its own parameters.

Page 42: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

Marketed Products

• Lakme

• ELE- 18

Page 43: Colored Cosmetics_Lipsticks

References

• Cosmetics: P.P.Sharma

• Harry’s cosmetics

• Cosmetics: Vimladevi

• BIS Guidelines: Govt. of India