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Forum Index « Useful Stuff « DIYs (Do it Yourself) by CStC Members

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Nov 02, 2006 9:29:11 pm Edited 1 times, last by Web on Jan 26, 2009 9:00:57

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DIY: Oil Change

This is for those who aren't sure if they can change their own oil or if this is their first car and they want to learn how

to do a few things. Hope this helps.

Tools needed:

-wrench

-14mm socket

-oil drain pan

-funnel

-filter wrench (not sure the size but get one by matching an OEM filter up to one in an auto shop)

-10" wrench extension to use with the oil filter wrench

-4.2 quarts of your oil choice and a new filter

1)Loosen the oil fill cap before starting. This will prevent an air lock and will help the oil flow faster, and easier.

Club Scion tC - Forums - DIY: Oil Change http://clubsciontc.com/forums/diy-install-guides-23/diy-oil-change-7453/

1 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

2)This point is where you position your floor jack (if you have one). If you don’t have one, use the scissor jack that

came with the car on the passenger side lift point (located in your manual). Lift it up enough so that you can work

under there.

3)This is the oil drain plug on the oil drain pan (black). The bolt is a 14 mm bolt. Place oil catch pan under oil plug.

Loosen oil plug and allow oil to drain. When oil is barely flowing anymore, replace the plug and tighten to a snug feel.

DON’T OVER-TIGHTEN OR CROSS-THREAD THE INLET!!


2 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

4)This will be your friend for the oil filter. Not exactly sure the diameter, but get an old filter or find one generic one

at the store that fits your car and match up the cup to that filter. I use a 3/8” drive b/c that’s the tool set I have.

5)Locate the oil filter (yours may be black if it’s the stock filter). Place the cup on the bottom of the filter with your

wrench and extension (if necessary) attached. Loosen the filter. REMEMBER: RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSY. Let

oil drain slowly as you start to unscrew it. When loosened completely, remove old filter and clean off engine block

with microfiber cloth or rag. Add a little bit of oil (dip your finger in a quart and apply) to the new filter’s black rubber

o-ring. **This prevents the filter from getting stuck for the next interval due to high heat and pressure. At this point,

I add a little oil in the filter (enough to fill it ½ way), match the thread back up with the filter thread and engine

thread. Screw on and make sure filter sits flush. When your turning begins to feel snug, give it another ½ - ¾ turn.

DON’T OVER TIGHTEN OR YOU’RE NEVER GOING TO GET IT OFF NEXT TIME. TIGHT, BUT NOT WRENCHED

ON. ***Do this by hand and not with the filter wrench.


3 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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Nov 03, 2006 10:30:38 am

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Orin Moderator 2005 Scion tCView Orin's Ride

Nov 03, 2006 10:34:37 am

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Lower your car.

LAST: Go back to where you loosened the fill cap in the engine bay and add 4 quarts of your desired oil. Replace the

cap, start car, let idle for 1-2 minutes and check for leaks.

Removing the maintenance required light goes like this:

Make sure the ODO reading is set on the car

-Press and HOLD the mile reset button and turn the key to the ON position (still holding the button)

-Keep holding the button until you see ALL 0s (000000)

-Let go of the button and turn the car off

Setting your mileage counter

-Again, make sure the ODO reading is set on the car

-Press and HOLD the mileage reset button and turn the key to ON

-Dashes will appear (-----)

-Each dash represents 1000 miles so if you have 5 dashes, the next reading will be set to 5000 miles...adjust it how

you prefer

awesome write-up

Great job Web! This helps a lot.


4 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

Nov 03, 2006 10:39:16 am

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flyingcesar

Mar 12, 2007 6:16:39 pm

New York, US


Mar 12, 2007 6:20:43 pm

Glad to hear it.

good write up.. dont forget scion gives out 3 free oil changes

dumb question...how do you know how much 4 quarts is, and should i buy a performance filter? how will i know which

filter fits?

rimjay wrote:

dumb question...how do you know how much 4 quarts is, and should i buy a performance filter? how will i know

which filter fits?

is this your 1st time?

if you buy it at walmart or auto zone they have a book or computer there that will tell you what filter is made for the

car.

You can buy TRD performance oil filters for a responsible price at trdsparks.com… I tend to stay away from FRAM…

K&N is also another I would use. You buy oil by the quart so I would be 4 bottles of 1quart each.

yea, its my first time.

how much does 1 quart usually cost for full synethetic, lets say amsoil or mobile 1?


5 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

New York, US

Teahupoo24

Mar 12, 2007 6:21:29 pm

New York, US


Mar 12, 2007 6:22:40 pm

flyingcesar

Mar 12, 2007 6:23:57 pm

New York, US

Teahupoo24

Mar 12, 2007 6:24:43 pm

New York, US


Mar 12, 2007 6:30:15 pm

New York, US

Teahupoo24

Mar 12, 2007 6:37:41 pm

Orlando Florida, US

Vicious Moderator 2005 Scion tCView Vicious's Ride

Mar 12, 2007 6:57:00 pm

wow I can't belive where the oil filter is usualy on the Jap cars they are in the worst spots....

i dont think thats a bad spot. i mean its right by the oil drain plug, close to the front of the car

U just have to jack up the car... about $3.5 to $7

no its in a awesome spot

^yo lets change our oil together if you can find that hydrolic jack lol

how long does this usually take?

and what oil do you recommened?

1/2 hour tops just got to let the car cool down

Oh, someone told me this but I never stopped to figure out if it was true: that once you switch your oil to synthetic,

you can't go back to non-synthetic? :o


6 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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Mar 12, 2007 7:01:07 pm

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Mar 12, 2007 7:46:49 pm

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130 posts Page 1 of 7 1 2 3 ... 7 »

Threads Replies Views Last Post

DIY: Oil Change

by Web at Nov 02, 2006 9:29 pm

129 9,172 by REBELJun 14, 2009 2:15 am

oil change

by lilez19 at May 04, 2009 8:21 pm

1 131 by twiztidtCMay 04, 2009 8:25 pm

oil change

by EdgarG at Feb 21, 2009 9:22 pm

27 518 by WebMar 10, 2009 8:45 pm

oil change

by lee_tc at Mar 12, 2008 10:14 am

6 214 by FrAnkRYzzOMar 12, 2008 10:30 am

Oil Change?

by southpole28 at May 31, 2007 9:07 pm

20 351 by WebMay 31, 2007 10:32 pm

yea. once you got synthetic, cant go back to regular. something about something in the valves expanding due to

synthetic, and if you go regular, youll get leaks...somethin like that lol

Nope............old wives tale..........You can go back and forth.......it's not "suggested" b/c there "can" be leaks that

happen later on, but....you can go back to conventional.

Amsoil will run you about 9$ a quart...that's what I use and I'll never use any other.

This thread rocks. I'm never having someone change my oil again.

...yeah, it's real easy and not worth paying anyone to do.

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DIY: Oil Change

SqMK wrote:


It's a satisfying feeling when you do it yourself. You can buy better oil and filters than a shop would normally use.

Orin wrote:

SqMK wrote:


It's a satisfying feeling when you do it yourself. You can buy better oil and filters than a shop would normally use.

x2.........I hate "quality" filter and oil changes...haha...for 15$!......hahahahha


8 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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de16 2007 Scion tCView de16's Ride

Mar 21, 2007 1:09:32 am

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Mar 21, 2007 7:43:13 am

New York, US


Mar 21, 2007 1:50:59 pm

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Mar 21, 2007 2:01:25 pm

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de16 2007 Scion tCView de16's Ride

Apr 09, 2007 6:02:02 pm

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sfdee12sf

May 08, 2007 8:27:00 pm

when you don't have an oil filter wrench that oil filter is not your friend. it is really hard to use the screw driver trick

and it can be annoying.

de16 wrote:

when you don't have an oil filter wrench that oil filter is not your friend. it is really hard to use the screw driver

trick and it can be annoying.

Exactly why I went out and bought that thing after the first change!...haha

how much is the oil filter wrench

~3-4$

wow stupid dealership tq'd the fucking oil filter on!!! fucking took me 2 hours cause i had trouble taking off the oil

filter even with a oil filter wrench. man fucked up shit

hey guys, quick easy question....cant find my manual right now for sone STRANGE reason....can someone get there

manual and check oil quantity with filter for me please.....is it exactly 4 including filter change?? thanks


9 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

Florida, US

sfdee12sf

May 08, 2007 9:48:03 pm

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May 08, 2007 9:49:05 pm

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May 08, 2007 9:51:24 pm

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May 08, 2007 9:55:21 pm

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May 08, 2007 11:29:36 pm



May 09, 2007 12:04:22 am

Bumb.......can anyone answer

you only need to do 4 quarts. I believe it says 4.2 but 4 quarts is fine if you use the stock size filter.

I like our oil change......soooooo damn easy and quick. Yea, I only use four quarts and fills up right to the money

with a PUR ONE Purolator synthetic oil filter.

Stock toyo filter for me and Amsoil

havent yet changed the oil on my tC myself ('07 and still milking the 3 free ones), but on my previous mustang and

explorers you had to replace a washer that was on the drain plug bolt. i take it the tC doesnt have one that needs to

be replaced?

BlackRose617 wrote:

havent yet changed the oil on my tC myself ('07 and still milking the 3 free ones), but on my previous mustang

and explorers you had to replace a washer that was on the drain plug bolt. i take it the tC doesnt have one that

needs to be replaced?

Yes you need a new gasket every time you do your oil. Doesnt come with a permanent gasket sytle plug. Which is a

bummer. I am going to buy a permanent style plug though cause I always forget to buy the stupid gaskets when I'm

at the store!!!


10 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM



May 09, 2007 6:45:20 am

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May 09, 2007 9:12:30 am



May 09, 2007 10:49:44 am

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May 09, 2007 10:56:36 am



May 09, 2007 10:58:48 am

damn, well we should throw that into the write up

Is the 07 plug different? I haven't replaced my plug gasket on my 06 and I've done PLENTY of oil changes. (38700

miles right now)

Web wrote:

Is the 07 plug different? I haven't replaced my plug gasket on my 06 and I've done PLENTY of oil changes.

(38700 miles right now)

Ummm....Web if there is a seperate gasket for your oil drain plug you are advised to replace it every time you

change your oil. If not you have a possiblity of leaking oil at the plug.

Now if your plug has no seperate gasket and a rubber gromet/washer on it then its a permanent gasket. I don't think

the older models would have this and the new model does not.

Just a heads up Web.

Never had a leak but now that I just thought about it, my oil plug doesn't have a gasket.....it's always been metal to

metal. Also, I've never heard of replacing the oil drain plug gasket at EVERY change either. Only if you notice a leak

or when you take the plug off, the gasket is cracked.

I've had the same one on my truck for 165K+ and it's never leaked a drop and it's a seperate rubber/nylon gasket.

Also, it depends highly on how much your torque that plug on. If you torque it on like some quick lube places, then

yeah, i'd change it every time. It only needs to be torque to maybe 15-20 lbs at the very most. I just wait until the

bolt stops turning and give it a 1/4 turn more. Never leaked on me with my truck or tC so far.

I always replace the gasket. Every job i worked when I was a mechanic I did so with every gasket you took

off....with the exception of permanent gaskets.

I think its a good idea especially when those things cost 15 cents for a pack of ten.


11 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM



May 09, 2007 11:03:36 am

130 posts Page 2 of 7 1 2 3 4 ... 7 « »


DIY: Oil Change


129 9,172 by REBELJun 14, 2009 2:15 am

oil change



oil change


27 518 by WebMar 10, 2009 8:45 pm

oil change



Oil Change?


20 351 by WebMay 31, 2007 10:32 pm

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yeah ive always replaced them on my previous cars

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on Aug 06, 2009







DIY: Oil Change


12 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

May 09, 2007 11:06:01 am



May 09, 2007 12:46:15 pm

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May 09, 2007 12:47:58 pm



May 09, 2007 12:49:27 pm

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hhhmmmmm.....oh well..........guess I'll just see what happens........but i am almost 100% that my tC doesn't even

have one.....just metal to metal contact....i'll check in 5K

WHAT! Metal to metal contact with no gasket! Dude, slap a gasket on that pronto.......i thought you originally said it

had a metal style gasket but if its just a drain plug and nothing else then you want a gasket......especially not to

mess up your threads on the pan from the torque of tightening the bolt.

dsm3383 wrote:

WHAT! Metal to metal contact with no gasket! Dude, slap a gasket on that pronto.......i thought you originally

said it had a metal style gasket but if its just a drain plug and nothing else then you want a gasket......especially

not to mess up your threads on the pan from the torque of tightening the bolt.

I'll check it out next time. Unless it's got a recessed gasket into the head of the bolt, I don't remember one being

there......oh well.......

I'll check next oil change though

Web wrote:

dsm3383 wrote:

WHAT! Metal to metal contact with no gasket! Dude, slap a gasket on that pronto.......i thought you

originally said it had a metal style gasket but if its just a drain plug and nothing else then you want a

gasket......especially not to mess up your threads on the pan from the torque of tightening the bolt.

I'll check it out next time. Unless it's got a recessed gasket into the head of the bolt, I don't remember one being

there......oh well.......

I'll check next oil change though

Yea, if you have a recessed gasket embedded in the bolt (aka permanent gasket) then your good. But otherwise I am

suprised your not leakin oil with no gasket...very surprised!


13 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

May 09, 2007 12:54:59 pm



May 09, 2007 12:56:31 pm

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May 09, 2007 12:57:26 pm

Naperville Illinois, US

swiftprov

Jun 17, 2007 7:26:52 pm

Winter Park Florida, US

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Jun 17, 2007 10:02:32 pm

Then I most likely have the "permenant" gasket. I've never noticed on fall off when I take the bolt out and never put

anything between the bolt and the pan......just never paid attention. Never had ANY leak

Nice quotation for "permanent gasket"

Letting everybody be able to distinct what it is and you explained it better than me in your post.

hahaha...........

It's better to change your oil when your car is hot right?

so web does ours have a permanent gasket? and do u have to put oil into the filter or can u just slap it on and when u

fill the 4qts let it flow into it

how many quarts of oil do we use? 4?

Swiftprov: Yeah, it makes the change faster.

hvtopiwala: We should have a permenant gasket for the oil plug. I've never changed it and never found the need to

do so. I always fill the filter up 1/2 way and then put it on just so it doesn't have too much of a dry start.

07sciontc4gg: Yeah, 4 quarts.


14 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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Jun 17, 2007 10:05:55 pm

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ThetCPope

Jun 17, 2007 10:11:50 pm

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Jun 18, 2007 8:38:28 am

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u think a strap wrench would work instead of an oil filter wrench or is there no room for it?

Web wrote:

Swiftprov: Yeah, it makes the change faster.

hvtopiwala: We should have a permenant gasket for the oil plug. I've never changed it and never found the need

to do so. I always fill the filter up 1/2 way and then put it on just so it doesn't have too much of a dry start.

07sciontc4gg: Yeah, 4 quarts.

ight thanks

Well as much as it is nice for everyone to know how to do this, its only gonna take away business from me. You know

I work at jiffylube and soon to be Toyota.

hvtopiwala wrote:

u think a strap wrench would work instead of an oil filter wrench or is there no room for it?

No, you have to get something that just attaches from the base like I show in the DIY. A strap wrench won't have

enough room.


15 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

Jun 18, 2007 8:39:03 am

Orlando Florida, US


Jun 18, 2007 8:42:32 am

ThetCPope

Jun 18, 2007 11:32:19 am


swiftprov

Jun 18, 2007 11:47:42 am

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Jun 18, 2007 12:43:36 pm

ThetCPope wrote:

Well as much as it is nice for everyone to know how to do this, its only gonna take away business from me. You

know I work at jiffylube and soon to be Toyota.

You'll have plenty of old farts or richy rich people come in and have their car "serviced"...

And the 30+ year old women that don't know a thing about cars

Yeah but then what would i do if i did do that, then they actually know something about cars, check it out themselves

and find out i lied. Then i get fired. So should i just tell them all "o yeah your flux copasitor is out"?

flyingcesar wrote:

You can buy TRD performance oil filters for a responsible price at trdsparks.com… I tend to stay away from

FRAM… K&N is also another I would use. You buy oil by the quart so I would be 4 bottles of 1quart each.

what's wrong with fram?

I was also just wondering what the best type of oil is(if there is one) or is it up to preferance.

swiftprov wrote:

flyingcesar wrote:

You can buy TRD performance oil filters for a responsible price at trdsparks.com… I tend to stay away from

FRAM… K&N is also another I would use. You buy oil by the quart so I would be 4 bottles of 1quart each.

what's wrong with fram?

I was also just wondering what the best type of oil is(if there is one) or is it up to preferance.

FRAM uses a paper filament for filtering which clogs up much faster than others. Burst strength on FRAM isn't that

high either.


16 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

130 posts Page 3 of 7 1 2 3 4 5 ... 7 « »


DIY: Oil Change


129 9,172 by REBELJun 14, 2009 2:15 am

oil change



oil change


27 518 by WebMar 10, 2009 8:45 pm

oil change



Oil Change?


20 351 by WebMay 31, 2007 10:32 pm

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130 posts Page 4 of 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 « »


swiftprov

I use Amsoil Series 2000 0W/30 synthetic. Some use Mobil 1 and Royal Purple..............I trust Amsoil and have for

over 40K on my tC and 2 other vehicles at home.

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DIY: Oil Change


17 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

Jun 18, 2007 1:05:08 pm

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Jun 18, 2007 1:09:17 pm


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Jun 18, 2007 2:00:05 pm

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Jun 18, 2007 2:08:45 pm

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Jun 18, 2007 2:09:18 pm


swiftprov

whats the differance between 0W/30 and 5W/30?

OW/30 will be thinner on the start. Both have the same operating temperature viscosity (30).

If you're down south, the first number would be better to stick with a 5W since it doesn't drop below 30 degrees ever.

Lower initial numbers are better for colder climates b/c the oil is easier to cylce from a cold start.

To answer your question directly......nothing when it warms up. They both lubricate the same at operating

temperature. OW/30 just gets flowing a bit faster.

so is OW more expensive?

It's not the weight that determines the price. Namebrand and the current economy do...

oh sorry

swiftprov wrote:

oh sorry

It's all good .............keep asking questions if you want....I'm good for answers


18 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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Jul 21, 2007 9:24:14 pm

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Jul 22, 2007 10:48:46 am

i see that haha

you seem to know everything... :O

Thanks...........but nah, I just research a lot and have done a lot of modifications with cars. Just a self taught person.

I just changed my oil today myself cause I was at the 14k miles mark. First time

Thanks Web for this write up, I had this printed out while I was doing it, haha.

One thing I want to say to all the n00bz like me is that when you drain the oil, the trajectory of the drain is actually

further than you might think, hahaha. Had to learn that the hard way.

Now to search for the threat that explains how to get rid of the Maintenance Required light...

^ look at you... changing your own oil.... so grown up.. *sniff*

just playing man, way to go!

Glad it helped Mayo

Removing the maintenance required light goes like this:

Make sure the ODO reading is set on the car

-Press and HOLD the mile reset button and turn the key to the ON position (still holding the button)

-Keep holding the button until you see ALL 0s (000000)

-Let go of the button and turn the car off

Setting your mileage counter

-Again, make sure the ODO reading is set on the car

-Press and HOLD the mileage reset button and turn the key to ON

-Dashes will appear (-----)

-Each dash represents 1000 miles so if you have 5 dashes, the next reading will be set to 5000 miles...adjust it how

you prefer


19 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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diego11032000

Oct 27, 2007 1:41:39 am

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alpha_zulu

Dec 23, 2007 8:18:29 pm

*adding this to the main post

has anyone here used royal purple oil? i here its good, but is it really that good? better than amsoil?

Search b/c that has been discussed already.

Some use it but I highly do NOT recommend it b/c it has graphite in it. Yes, graphite is a nice metal "lubricant" but

b/c you can never drain all the oil out of an engine during a regular oil interval, that graphite deposits in the internals

and clogs up the oil tunnels in the engine.

Amsoil has been in my car for 49K and nothing else will ever get in my engine bay.

This is my first time changing my oil...ever. Just curious...is the scissor jack safe? My friend told me he doesnt

recommend it..dunno why. I dont wanna be squished and killed by my lowered tc lol

no, a scissor jack is not safe to work under the car. ive had a bad experience with that, and i used 2 of em. i would

never go under my car again without jackstands. i have a hydrolic jack also now though. i use jack stands, a hydrolic

jack, and if you want added safety, u can use ur 2 scissor jacks too

yeah thats what i thought, i ended up getting a wooden ramp and rolling up on it...my car was too low for the jack

haha

Thanks a lot for posting this DIY. I just changed my oil today with a friend and it was pretty easy. Everything just as

your described. What sucked was removing the stock filter. What the hell was Toyota thinking? The damn car isn't

going to get hit by a meteor. That damn filter was so freaking hard to remove.

But other than that everything was easy


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Feb 22, 2008 4:35:25 am

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130 posts Page 4 of 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 « »


DIY: Oil Change


129 9,172 by REBELJun 14, 2009 2:15 am

oil change



oil change


27 518 by WebMar 10, 2009 8:45 pm

oil change



Oil Change?


20 351 by WebMay 31, 2007 10:32 pm

good help.

Glad this DIY is helping people

Very good write-up, I will be using this very soon myself...my only question is wat oil do you all think is the best for

our cars? I see most of you say Amsoil but wat do u all think of Quaker Q Horsepower or Castrol Syntec? And is it

true wat they say about using Amsoil (you only need to change your oil once a year)? Oh and once you've drained the

old oil outta the car, how do you dispose of it?

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LA_Tc_Rider 2006 Scion tCView LA_Tc_Rider's Ride

Apr 17, 2008 2:59:28 pm

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Apr 17, 2008 3:00:44 pm

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TheTrue1

Apr 17, 2008 3:48:37 pm

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Apr 17, 2008 4:03:51 pm

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DIY: Oil Change

http://www.smartsynthetic...e_motor_oil_testing.htm.. for future reference... idk bout once a year but id do it every

5k with a synthetic oil, searching would help, theres tons of threads on this topic.. u can take it to an auto parts store

to dispose of the old oil(if they accept it of course) or u can jus leave it on their front door b4 they open and ruuuunn!!

^hahaha

Yeah, once a year is excessive and I also do mine every 5K no matter what type of driving I do. I feel guilty letting it

creep over 5K

oh ok cool, thanx 4 the help...one more thing, would you happen to know off hand wat size oil filter the car uses?

TheTrue1 wrote:

oh ok cool, thanx 4 the help...one more thing, would you happen to know off hand wat size oil filter the car uses?

All depends on the type of filter you choose. I use the OEM toyota filter....can't remember the numbers though.


22 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

Apr 17, 2008 4:08:28 pm

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Apr 17, 2008 4:12:46 pm

Kings Mountain North Carolina, US

EmpireRacingAOW 2006 Scion tCView EmpireRacingAOW's Ride

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Jul 11, 2008 4:07:08 pm

New Brunswick New Jersey, US

krdshrk 2006 Scion tCView krdshrk's Ride

Jul 11, 2008 4:40:58 pm

Dahlonega Georgia, US

xFly1np4nda 2008 Scion tCView xFly1np4nda's Ride

model # for Toyota OEM filter is 90915-YZZF1, jus picked up 2 yesterday

LA_Tc_Rider wrote:

model # for Toyota OEM filter is 90915-YZZF1, jus picked up 2 yesterday

I buy cases of 12 from TRDSparks for 36$ shipped

oh yea well i got 2 for 4 bucks hows that! lol neways yea ill be gettin dem frum trdsparks next time

Crazy good write up...iv changed oil before but on much older cars so i never changed my own since ive had the

tC...but never agian will i pay for it...i priced an oil change at my local good year it was goin to cost me 80 bucks to

change it if i used synethetic...so whts the best filter and oil to use...iv heard you can let it go for 5,000 but on newer

cars its better to only go 3???

Conventional oil can be changed around 5k or so.

Synthetic oil can be changed around 10k+ but my preference is 8k.

Some synthetics say they can go up to 15k.. I don't believe it but that's what they say. I still change @ 5k with

synthetic but that's me and my turbo


23 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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Jul 17, 2008 10:50:04 am

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REBEL 2009 Scion tCView REBEL's Ride

Oct 27, 2008 1:04:07 am

Just changed my oil today for the tC... pretty good placement of the drain plug & filter tbh. I can just pull a pan to

catch both spots without moving it.

However the filter is practically impossible to remove without a socket.

My filter's in TIGHT. I have to use an oil filter wrench.

Best oil filter wrench in the world... and I totally agree:

http://www.amazon.com/Wor...lter-Wrench/dp/B000M96RVA

just did my oil change....im a dummie and took the screw off too fast, oil poured out...then the container i had was

too small, so it overflowed...other than that, everything else went smoothely, very nice write up web!

^haha, happened to my buddy when he changed his oil in the F150. He had a 5 quart container and it takes 7-8 and

the drain plug fell in the container and clogged the hole!!!....hahahahahaha

haha yea man thats mad funny...but at least now i know what NOT to do, n learned from my mistakes...next time itll

be smoothe

If you like the OEM oil filters, these guys are reasonable w/free shipping.

Genuine Toyota Oil Filter Quantity of 10 in a pack 90915-YZZF1-CASE10

http://www.trdparts4u.com...ZZF1-CASE10.aspx?MakeID=1

I went ahead and ordered, came out to $41.90 total w/free shipping. Looks like a sale price so don't know how long

this price will last for.


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Oct 28, 2008 4:21:07 am

130 posts Page 5 of 7 1 ... 3 4 5 6 7 « »

Threads

REBEL wrote:

If you like the OEM oil filters, these guys are reasonable w/free shipping.

Genuine Toyota Oil Filter Quantity of 10 in a pack 90915-YZZF1-CASE10

http://www.trdparts4u.com...ZZF1-CASE10.aspx?MakeID=1

I went ahead and ordered, came out to $41.90 total w/free shipping. Looks like a sale price so don't know how

long this price will last for.

It that's a sale price and people are too late to order it through them, this link (http://www.trdsparks.com

/...t_cat=30&parts_id=970) is where I've bought 2 packs for my car. Came to just over 44$ shipped both times and

shipping was about 2 days.

Anybody know where to pick up a Toyota oil filter wrench this size by mail order that is reasonable? I can find places

online but they want an arm and a leg w/shipping…

A Toyota oil filter wrench? I think a regular oil filter wrench will be fine brothah!

There not made by Toyota but that’s what they call them. They’re made specially for Toyota oil filters and fit

precisely. For instance here’s the one that fit’s the OEM oil filter for the tC.

Need a better price tho... I'm cheap... LOL

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/asttoy640.html

Vicious wrote:

A Toyota oil filter wrench? I think a regular oil filter wrench will be fine brothah!

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Replies Views Last PostDIY: Oil Change


129 9,172 by REBELJun 14, 2009 2:15 am

oil change



oil change


27 518 by WebMar 10, 2009 8:45 pm

oil change



Oil Change?


20 351 by WebMay 31, 2007 10:32 pm

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130 posts Page 6 of 7 1 ... 4 5 6 7 « »

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JRod_TC 2005 Scion tCView JRod_TC's Ride

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DIY: Oil Change

Not worth it b/c you can get the one from Autozone, that I've used for the past 85K miles on my car and it works

every time. Only about 5-6$


26 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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Nov 01, 2008 5:06:30 am

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Nov 01, 2008 4:18:16 pm

Seriously ppl!!!

How in the world is this a 5 page thread!!!

It's JUST changing ur oil

5 pages thread in just for changing oil it could be more...I don't change my own oil, I don't know how and I don't

know what types of oil I should use for my new tC...eh, this thread actually help me alot.

JRod_TC wrote:

Seriously ppl!!!

How in the world is this a 5 page thread!!!

It's JUST changing ur oil

No need for for this...a lot of new users view it and post a thanks for it and there's also people posting related

questions. Not everyone can do car work.

blackcloud9 wrote:

5 pages thread in just for changing oil it could be more...I don't change my own oil, I don't know how and I

don't know what types of oil I should use for my new tC...eh, this thread actually help me alot.

And a comment like this is EXACTLY what this thread is for and why it's so long. I'm glad it helped blackcloud9.

I’m still confused as to whether we need to add a new oil drain plug gasket everytime we change the oil… LOL

Web did you say that you don’t use one? Can you remember whether you have a metal gasket on that drain plug?

Have you ever bought and installed these gaskets as far as you remember?


27 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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Nov 01, 2008 8:33:26 pm

Richmond Hill New York, US

BatmansTC 2006 Scion tCView BatmansTC's Ride

Nov 01, 2008 10:59:52 pm

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Nov 02, 2008 12:20:23 am

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Nov 02, 2008 12:21:26 am

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Nov 02, 2008 11:52:45 am

Mine is still the original metal ring with rubber inside seal . Never replaced and still seals perfectly. You can if you

want, it's not like they are expensive, but I just don't feel like changing mine until I need to.

Thanks man, It’s probably just a reassurance thing… I’ll do my first oil change w/o the addition of the gasket, I’m

sure it will be fine.

My front end is to low to get up on the ramps though. Placed one under there yesterday and hit’s the bumper before

making contact with the tire… I’ll have to think of another way of getting her up a bit, to get under there. Everything

is right there though and may try it w/o jacking it up perhaps…

I was looking at the oil bottles and they have these numbers on them like 5w-10,etc. What are those numbers used

for?

one word of advice...make sure the can or whatever you use to catch the oil coming out from the plug is big enough

to hold all the oil lol

this guide is very helpful, i did my first oil change using this guide, didnt go too smoothe but that was my fault not the

guides

BatmansTC wrote:

I was looking at the oil bottles and they have these numbers on them like 5w-10,etc. What are those numbers

used for?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

there ya go buddy

^and for those who don't want to read that thread....

The first number with the W after it is the cold start viscosity of the oil. The lower the number, the easier the oil will


28 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

Dahlonega Georgia, US

xFly1np4nda 2008 Scion tCView xFly1np4nda's Ride

Nov 02, 2008 8:41:27 pm

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BatmansTC 2006 Scion tCView BatmansTC's Ride

Nov 02, 2008 8:52:29 pm

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Nov 03, 2008 7:38:14 am

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Nov 03, 2008 7:42:33 am

flow at lower temperature upon a cold start.

The second number is operating temperature viscosity. The higher the number, the better oil pressure is held at

higher rpms/heat ranges and less oil breakdown due to heat.

That's just the quick and easy of it...

SO if I were to redline a lot, would I be better off using 5W-30 instead of 5W-20?

is it true that those numbers are used for how much miles you have also?

xFly1np4nda wrote:

SO if I were to redline a lot, would I be better off using 5W-30 instead of 5W-20?

Thicker oil b/c of the added rpm heat/stress......5w-40 range would be even better but 50 would be too thick for fuel

economy as well.

BatmansTC wrote:

is it true that those numbers are used for how much miles you have also?

If you're talking about High Mileage oils, the reason people suggest a slightly thicker oil in a high mileage engine is

b/c it helps with added wear an older engine will encounter. B/c the parts are not brand new internally, the older they

get, the more they score themselves and cause small pits and scratches. Those scratches, mainly in cylinder wall,

create loss in compression and oil blow by. B/c of those additional wear marks and friction producers, higher heat

ranges are reached faster in older engines. With higher heat ranges comes oil breakdown and with oil breakdown

comes engine failure.

Best thing to do with high mileage engines that still take a beating is to use a moderately thick oil (5w-40, 5w-50 if

you can find it) but realize that thicker oils will reduce mpg slightly. If you are just using a car for a point A to point B

car, then 5-40 is fine so that it just keep good oil pressure while in operation.

**Note: Personal recommendation....best thing you can do for an engine is change it to synthetic early in it's life (pre

20k miles) and stick to that same synthetic brand/weight/company the rest of the engine's life. The seals will be

conditioned early with the lubricants in the synthetic oil and the 2 main issues with conventional oils that synthetic oils

don't deal with are:


29 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

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Jan 08, 2009 11:48:55 pm

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Temperz 2005 Scion tCView Temperz's Ride

Jan 09, 2009 1:25:39 am

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Jan 09, 2009 5:38:01 am

-thermal breakdown

-dry start is not an issue

Synthetics won't breakdown to heat and will hold pressure much easier due to that. They also stick to all metal

components much easier and prevent dry starts (metal components are not lubricated and have a few seconds of

metal-metal contact causing premature wear/tear).

I picked up a set of Rhino ramps to change my oil… I progressed to go up the ramps and didn’t quite make it up and

let off the gas a bit and the car started to go backwards. When it did the ramps lounged forward. I got out of the car

and repositioned the ramps once again. I attempted to go up the ramps, I didn’t let off the gas this time and

progressed to give it just a little more gas. When I did the ramps flew backwards and flew underneath the body side,

underneath about the center point of the doors. I appeared to suffer damage underneath the drivers side and the

bottom seal was bulging out, YIKES… I jacked the car up and removed the ramps… I popped back in the lower sill and

thank god everything was OK and suffered no damage, AMAZING… These ramps FREAKIN SUCK !!! I have used

ramps many times with my truck and never had a problem… Don’t waste you money on these things, although strong

they are a danger and can damage your car… I am rather lucky regarding this situation and that I did not suffer any

major damage to the car… I didn’t even give it that much gas either. These are going on consignment at a local store

tomorrow…

I managed to change the oil with out the ramps our jacking. I have 1,060 miles and put in Mobile1 0-20W and a new

Toyota filter… Much to my amazement the oil was pretty dark for only having a 1,000 miles.

I also bought the Worlds Best Universal Oil Filter Wrench and as far as I am concerned it is also a piece of shit… It

wouldn’t grab on to the filter and took much time trying to get it to grip the filter… I finally got it at a slight angle and

enough to loosen the filter. Don’t waste your time on this piece of crap either. Before my next oil change, I will get a

filter wrench that actually fit’s the filter… This thing is just pure nonsense…

Also there was no gasket on the drain plug. It is just the plug with a flanged edge. I checked the oil drain pan to see if

possibly the gasket fell into it but there was no gasket to be found.

Lessoned learned for me, I will not attempt to use the Rhino ramps again… That just sent to much fear in me and was

lucky to have not occurred any lower body damage. The Worlds Best piece of crap filter is also a joke as far as I am

concerned and will be replaced with an appropriate filter wrench for the Toyota oil filters.

Although the car is low, you can change the oil and oil filter without jacking it up You can get you head under there

and with a reach of the arm, everything is accessible.

I am still PISSED about those ramps, although I feel fortunate that I occurred no serious damage…

first time doing this first car lol awesome im a nub stfu

REBEL wrote:

I picked up a set of Rhino ramps to change my oil… I progressed to go up the ramps and didn’t quite make it up

and let off the gas a bit and the car started to go backwards. When it did the ramps lounged forward. I got out of

the car and repositioned the ramps once again. I attempted to go up the ramps, I didn’t let off the gas this time

and progressed to give it just a little more gas. When I did the ramps flew backwards and flew underneath the

body side, underneath about the center point of the doors. I appeared to suffer damage underneath the drivers


30 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

Cannon Afb New Mexico, US

Crash Moderator 2007 Scion tCView Crash's Ride

Jan 09, 2009 5:51:07 am

130 posts Page 6 of 7 1 ... 4 5 6 7 « »


DIY: Oil Change


129 9,172 by REBELJun 14, 2009 2:15 am

oil change



oil change


27 518 by WebMar 10, 2009 8:45 pm

oil change



Oil Change?


20 351 by WebMay 31, 2007 10:32 pm

side and the bottom seal was bulging out, YIKES… I jacked the car up and removed the ramps… I popped back in

the lower sill and thank god everything was OK and suffered no damage, AMAZING… These ramps FREAKIN

SUCK !!! I have used ramps many times with my truck and never had a problem… Don’t waste you money on

these things, although strong they are a danger and can damage your car… I am rather lucky regarding this

situation and that I did not suffer any major damage to the car… I didn’t even give it that much gas either. These

are going on consignment at a local store tomorrow…

I managed to change the oil with out the ramps our jacking. I have 1,060 miles and put in Mobile1 0-20W and a

new Toyota filter… Much to my amazement the oil was pretty dark for only having a 1,000 miles.

I also bought the Worlds Best Universal Oil Filter Wrench and as far as I am concerned it is also a piece of shit…

It wouldn’t grab on to the filter and took much time trying to get it to grip the filter… I finally got it at a slight

angle and enough to loosen the filter. Don’t waste your time on this piece of crap either. Before my next oil

change, I will get a filter wrench that actually fit’s the filter… This thing is just pure nonsense…

Also there was no gasket on the drain plug. It is just the plug with a flanged edge. I checked the oil drain pan to

see if possibly the gasket fell into it but there was no gasket to be found.

Lessoned learned for me, I will not attempt to use the Rhino ramps again… That just sent to much fear in me and

was lucky to have not occurred any lower body damage. The Worlds Best piece of crap filter is also a joke as far

as I am concerned and will be replaced with an appropriate filter wrench for the Toyota oil filters.

Although the car is low, you can change the oil and oil filter without jacking it up You can get you head under

there and with a reach of the arm, everything is accessible.

I am still PISSED about those ramps, although I feel fortunate that I occurred no serious damage…

That sucks. The only times I use ramps is when I do stuff to the rear (sway bar mainly).

My car sits so low that every time I use a lift, I scrape going on and off of the ramps. Last time I changed my oil,

when reversing off of the lift, my car got stuck on the ramps because my exhaust was angled into the concrete! I was

just about ready to go buy some ramps to do this at home because of the troubles I have had with lifts. Good thing I

read this post!

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Spitfire Moderator 2008 Scion tCView Spitfire's Ride

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on Aug 06, 2009







DIY: Oil Change

i like my rhino ramps that i have. never had an issue. whether i use them on the slick surface of the inside of my

garage or out on my drive way. i just line it up and slowly creep my way up. im on top in like 3 seconds. try putting

some weight inside or behind the ramp like cinder blocks.

Really? I’m kind of scared to use them now. I had them on the driveway in which is in good shape and paved with a

rough enough surface for the ramps to grip. I was just creeping up and they both slipped and lodged them selves

about the center of the door. I can only imagine that the grip of the tire made them do this and they don’t grip the

driveway enough. They are brand new and do have the rubber contacts on the bottom in tact. On mine there is only

the square rubber inserts in the lower part of the ramp.

I really didn’t think I was applying that much gas but it may have been to much for the ramps to handle. I’ve used

my steel ones with the truck plenty of times but it is a rear wheel drive. I bought these because the steel ones set to

high and would hit the bumper driving up. Seeing that I can change the oil and filter without jacking I won’t be using

the ramps.

Spitfire wrote:

i like my rhino ramps that i have. never had an issue. whether i use them on the slick surface of the inside of my

garage or out on my drive way. i just line it up and slowly creep my way up. im on top in like 3 seconds. try

putting some weight inside or behind the ramp like cinder blocks.


32 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM



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Jan 09, 2009 7:41:59 am

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itmovesme

Jun 11, 2009 8:13:42 am Edited 2 times, last by itmovesme on Jun 11, 2009 8:29:31am.

if your not lowered. you should be able to put the ramp right in front of your tire. which makes it alot easier to go up

if your in a hurry.i put sandbags underneath mine when the inside of my garage or drive way is wet when i am

changing oil or working on my lights so they don't slide.

Check this guy out as he is backing off the ramps. That’s what happened to me on the first attempt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eb3zkFJVoGU

oh wow. i dont use my reverse when im on the ramps. i slap it in nuetral and use my foot to slowly coast off. hope it

doesnt happen to me. i'll be using them this morning.

I wasn’t in reverse either, I was in Drive… I just let off the gas a bit and it started backing up so I stepped on the

brake a bit to let it ease off the ramps so I could try again and they lounged forward.

The pavement was dry too… I think you have the right idea as to weight them down and so forth but I’m afraid that if

I do that and they slide backwards again, that more damage may happen to my car… My car is new. If I need to

raise it, I’m going with a jack and stands like what Web uses.

It’s possible that these ramps are too light in weight our the material they are made of that creates these issues. My

damages could have been worse considering what occurred.

Spitfire wrote:

oh wow. i dont use my reverse when im on the ramps. i slap it in nuetral and use my foot to slowly coast off.

hope it doesnt happen to me. i'll be using them this morning.

Wow, flying ramps!

I love my metal ramps though. I can't go head onto to them with my car b/c of height limits, but reverse they are

great. I've had them slide one time but only 2 inches with my mom's car. I have the cut in the pavement to prove it.


33 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

Bronx New York, US

The1Alfred 2005 Scion tCView The1Alfred's Ride

Jun 11, 2009 12:45:25 pm

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Jun 14, 2009 2:15:39 am

This is what I use:

For filter-

I bought this from Home Depot back in November. I think I paid $9-12 bucks for it. Works quite well even if the filter

is overtighten by a Toyota tech with a macho ego....

For jacking-

I got it on sale for $35 bucks at Sears. No problems with it yet. Perfect if you're lowered. I only use it during oil OCs

& extreme detailing jobs (cleaning the wheel walls.) I'll raise it on the passenger side. Since I don't really go

underneath (won't recommend this);I don't use jack stands. I just keep my right shoulder and arm underneath.

-------

Since I'm high mileage-I use R.P. 5-20 (even during winter) and change before 5k mark like 4,700-ish or when the

car feels sluggish. Don't grill me about Sythentic oils can last up to 7k-(10k using only Amsoil)marks. I explained one

day to a mechanically inclined co-worker about the car not wanting to start few times and oil clumps are coming out

of the pan...he told me, if I can afford it...change oil sooner. Ever since I have. Car runs SO much smoother and

never has the starting problem. I rather fork extra money for oil changes than one day driving my 72 mile drive to &

from work and find out a problem occurs.

Yes, I do change out filters each time; using OEMs. But! My drain plug is the same plug from 2007. I guess Carmax

(one here is also a Toyota dealer) got sick of doing oil changes for me every month and gave me one of those fancy

nickle graded drain plug with the washer welded onto the bolt. Its very nice and still doing its job. I wipe it down well

before putting it back onto the pan. I probably should change it one of these days but I only find the plastic plugs???

For those who have those filters tight-tight-Check the filter's temperature. If its cool or cold, start up and let it run for

another minute. Then try again within seconds! I've done this when the weather temperature was in 10's during

winter. I also took it off when that filter was engine hot. Crazy I know but I'll wore gloves.


34 of 35 8/13/2009 3:02 AM

130 posts Page 7 of 7 1 ... 5 6 7 «


DIY: Oil Change


129 9,172 by REBELJun 14, 2009 2:15 am

oil change



oil change


27 518 by WebMar 10, 2009 8:45 pm

oil change



Oil Change?


20 351 by WebMay 31, 2007 10:32 pm

I never used the ramps again after that happened to me...

The only thing they get used for now is driving my garden tractor up on to clean the underside of the deck, so wasn’t

a total waste of money...

I don’t even raise the car up to change the oil or oil filter… I just reach under there and remove the drain plug, let her

drain and than change the oil filter without jacking.

My first oil and filter change was at 1,000 and the 2nd is coming up at 3,000 to 3,500 miles.

Moble1 0w-20 and Toyota oil filters. I’d still like to add the filter magnet that Web recommended.

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