civi lt À tavola - accademia italiana della cucina · pasta a yellow hue when added to its cooking...

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ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINAA CULTURAL INSTITUTION OF THE REPUBLIC OF ITALY

FOUNDED IN 1953 BY ORIO VERGANI

www.accademia1953.it

CIVILTÀDELLATAVOLAACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA

INTERNATIONAL

EDITION

CdT_285_COVER_INGLESE_Acca 02/09/16 11:40 Pagina 1

FOCUS2 Television, cinema and the “terrible” guides which disseminate joy and pain (Paolo Petroni)

CULTURE AND RESEARCH3 Curcuma longa: the golden spice (Gianni Zocchi)

5 Courgettes: from appetiser to dessert (Giuseppe Anastasio)

6 D’Annunzio at the table (Maria Attilia Fabbri Dall’Oglio)

8 Vegetarians and vegans (Nicola Barbera)

On the cover: Graphic elaboration of thepainting “The Wine Glass” (oil on canvas, circa1659-1660) by Jan Vermeer, on display at theGemäldegalerie in Berlin.

PAGE 1

INTERNATIONAL EDITION

SEPTEMBER 2016 / N. 285

EDITOR IN CHIEFPAOLO PETRONI

COPY EDITORSILVIA DE LORENZO

LAYOUTSIMONA MONGIU

TRANSLATORANTONIA FRASER FUJINAGA

THIS ISSUE INCLUDES ARTICLES BYGiuseppe Anastasio,

Nicola Barbera,Maria Attilia Fabbri Dall’Oglio,

Paolo Petroni,Gianni Zocchi.

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PUBLISHERACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA

VIA NAPO TORRIANI 31 - 20124 MILANOTEL. 02 66987018 - FAX 02 66987008

[email protected]@[email protected]

www.accademia1953.it

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MONTHLY MAGAZINEREG. N. 4049 - 29-5-1956

TRIBUNALE DI MILANO

Rivista associataall’Unione StampaPeriodica Italiana

L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINAFOUNDED IN 1953 BY ORIO VERGANI

AND LUIGI BERTETT, DINO BUZZATI TRAVERSO,CESARE CHIODI, GIANNINO CITTERIO,

ERNESTO DONÀ DALLE ROSE, MICHELE GUIDO FRANCI,GIANNI MAZZOCCHI BASTONI, ARNOLDO MONDADORI, ATTILIO NAVA, ARTURO ORVIETO, SEVERINO PAGANI,

ALDO PASSANTE, GIANLUIGI PONTI, GIÒ PONTI,DINO VILLANI, EDOARDO VISCONTI DI MODRONE,

WHIT MASSIMO ALBERINI AND VINCENZO BUONASSISI.

CIVILTÀDELLATAVOLAACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA

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S O M M A R I OT A B L E O F C O N T E N T S

F C U S

Both on television and on the silver screen, the topic ofcooking attracts an enthusiastic audience. We havealready discussed at length the success of the televi-sion series Joséphine, ange gardien in France and Italy, espe-cially the episode in which the eminent, embattled chefstruggles to retain his third Michelin star. Well-receivedfilms have included Chef, No Reservations, The Secret of theGrain, Julie & Julia, and the autobiographical French filmHaute Cuisine, not to mention the 1996 cult film Big Night,directed by and starring Stanley Tucci. Far more recent isthe film Burnt, directed by John Wells and written by Ste-ven Knight. The main character Adam Jones (Bradley Coo-per) is a former enfant terrible of the restaurant world, withtwo Michelin stars, whose restaurant in Paris fails becauseof drugs and alcohol. After disappearing for three years toshuck a million oysters in New Orleans, he steps back intothe game by joining a restaurant inLondon where an old friend was on-ce the chef. He fervently desires athird Michelin star, and to this end heenlists the finest team of chefs availa-ble, including the talented and beau-tiful Hélène (Sienna Miller). Over se-veral months he must confront his al-cohol problems and live up to thestandard set by the former chef, hisold friend, who succeeded in obtai-ning the third Michelin star duringhis absence. He tries by employinghis tried and tested recipes and ‘tasteexplosions’, but Hélène points outthat during his three years of absen-ce, cuisine has changed and now the-re are new machines and techniquesin the kitchen. She shows him themysterious “Roner” (in fact the Ro-ner has been commonly used in pro-fessional kitchens for fifteen years orso, and consists mainly of an electri-

cal resistor and a thermometer for low-temperature coo-king). Everyone anxiously awaits the Michelin inspectors,who always arrive incognito. How, then, to recognise them?It is said in the film that they are always in pairs (one mayeven be female); one orders the tasting menu and the otherorders à la carte, and then they ask for a half-bottle of wineand some tap water. At a certain point they place a fork un-der the table to gauge the waiter’s reaction. Aside from urban legends about the inspectors’ behaviour,the Michelin “Red Guide” certainly gains vastly in imageand, therefore, popularity from the film. Winning a thirdstar, irrespective of how it is obtained, is not only a medalfor the chef but a source of significant income and medianotoriety worldwide. Losing it can be a real catastrophe.But Michelin is no longer solely responsible for the fate ofrestaurants: these days, a wraith is abroad among gour-

mets, one both loved and loathed,spawned by the internet; loved by thechosen, loathed by the underdogs,and accused of various iniquities.Even the British newspaper TheGuardian has squared off againstTripAdvisor, maintaining that it has“brought the restaurant business toits knees”. From reviews of closedbusinesses to bribery attempts andfictitious local top-ten lists, it’s a sy-stem which undermines restaura-teurs’ activities. Or so they say. The Academy’s restaurant guide willnot spark dramas or decree successeswith attendant economic advantages,but is certainly prepared honestly, wi-thout constraints, with an eye toidentifying our best cuisine. For thisreason it must be compiled with ever-greater precision and dedication withan awareness of our considerable au-thority.

Television, cinema and the “terrible” guides

which disseminate joy and painBetween myth and reality, they shape the life of restaurants.

The Academy is entrusted with a mission of reliability and constant commitment.

BY PAOLO PETRONIPresident of the Academy

S O M M A R I OC U L T U R E & R E S E A R C H

T urmeric derives from the plantCurcuma longa, with elongatedoval leaves and an abundanceof clustered. It originates from south-eastern Asia (particularly India and Pa-kistan) and belongs to the ginger family(Zingiberaceae). The spice itself is ob-tained from the plant’s dried and pow-dered rhizome, prevalently used as abasic ingredient of curry, a well-knownand commonly used spice blend withwidely varying regional versions. Forinstance, in addition to turmeric, somecurry powders contain black pepper,nutmeg, ginger, cumin, cloves, corian-der, cinnamon, and chilli pepper. Thename Curcuma derives from the Indo-Persian word kour koum, meaning ‘saf-fron’, which is why turmeric is oftentermed ‘saffron of the Indies’. In theEast, where the concept of food as anutrient and nutraceutical or ‘functionalfood’ has been established for centuries,turmeric has long been used in the kit-

chen and beyond, as a medicinal plant.Studies confirm its numerous thera-peutic properties. It is described inAyurvedic texts even as far back as3000 BC as a remedy for various con-ditions including obesity. In 1949 itsantibacterial characteristics were iden-tified for the first time. The rhizome ofCurcuma longa is boiled and dried andthen ground into a powder almost asfine as talc, which has an intense ochre-yellow colour and constitutes a naturalcolouring agent designated as E100.There are tens of different Curcumaspecies, but only a few have organolepticproperties. Turmeric is a highly adaptable spice,able to flavour soups, broths, rice dishes,stews and even drinks (such as GoldenMilk). The Indian culinary traditionuses it in meat, fish or vegetable curriesor in brines. It also appears in sweets,not only as a colouring agent (in pud-dings, custards, shakes, pickles, butter

BY GIANNI ZOCCHINutritional biologist and specialist in food science

“Franco Marenghi” Study Centre

Its versatility makes it interesting in the kitchen and beyond.

Curcuma longa: the golden spice


and vegan pastries, where it is used asa cream substitute), but also to createa flavour contrast. Given its effects onglucose and lipid metabolism, theseuses of turmeric are surely helpful. It isan interesting addition to dishes basedon legumes (chickpeas, beans, lentils,grass peas etc) combined with grainsand vegetables to form a complete meal. Turmeric is notably delicate (in commonwith most aromatic spices) and thereforetends to lose its organoleptic propertiesquickly: it is therefore advisable to pur-chase it in small quantities and keep itaway from light, heat sources and hu-midity. To maximise and preserve itsorganoleptic, aromatic and beneficialcharacteristics, it is important to add itto dishes raw or in the final few minutesof cooking. It is useful to combine itwith black pepper, which increases itsbioavailability and ease of absorption. Turmeric has been used, especially incertain Eastern countries, for its antio-xidant, anti-inflammatory and cleansingpowers, and now its qualities are alsoincreasingly appreciated in Europe. Asufficient dose is approximately a tea-spoon with some pepper or other spices,added near the end of cooking or, asabove, used raw. It is also an interestingaddition to eggs or boiled or stewedpotatoes as well as yoghurt, smoothies,freshly squeezed fruit and/or vegetablejuices, or creamed vegetables; it givespasta a yellow hue when added to itscooking water. Added to honey, blackpepper, ginger etc, it can be used in ti-sanes; an excellent and highly thirst-

quenching drink is freshly squeezed pi-neapple and ginger juice with turmeric. Its absorption can be facilitated throughcombination with a fat (in the Medi-terranean tradition, extra-virgin oliveoil is the best choice) and, as discussedearlier, with a high-quality black pepper,whose piperin maximises its bioavaila-bility. The isothiocyanates of Brassica-ceae (the cabbage or mustard family:cabbage, broccoli etc) likewise favourits absorption. It has been demonstratedthat its bioactive component, whichproduces its golden colour and beneficialqualities, is curcumin, which, togetherwith other curcuminoids, such as de-methoxycurcumin and bisdemethoxy-curcumin, forms an array of polyphenolswith manifold health-giving properties.Turmeric is among the spices most stu-died for its potential as a potent phar-macological agent. Extracts containingover 95% curcumin are now commer-cially available. The varied propertiesof curcumin are all very intriguing, andare the subject of many studies and ex-periments. The effects attributed to cur-cumin, in brief, are of the following ty-pes: choleretic (favours bile secretion,rendering it more fluid), cholagogic(facilitates the flow of bile from thegallbladder to the intestines), and he-patoprotective (may favour liver rege-neration by cleansing the liver and gal-lbladder, thereby detoxifying the liver).It is a powerful antioxidant (superiorto vitamin C), anti-inflammatory andantiphlogistic agent, and seems to haveinteresting properties in preventing he-

patic steatosis (fatty liver disease). Italso reduces levels of triglycerides andcholesterol. Turmeric has also beenshown to have relevance in various il-lnesses such as neurodegenerative, in-flammatory, cardio-vascular and me-tabolic diseases. Interest in turmericapparently knows no bounds, and manyrecent studies appear to confirm variousinteresting health benefits and preven-tive effects of this plant, especially inthe metabolism of sugars and fats. Itsnear-absence of significant side effectshas led to the inclusion of turmeric (in-cluding its culinary uses) among thesubstances “generally recognised assafe” (GRAS) by the National CancerInstitute, thereby paving the way forpossible therapeutic uses. Obviouslyfor therapeutic purposes it is necessaryto take a standardised supplement who-se production is monitored by experts,though until now no therapeutic pro-tocol has been established for medicaluse. Nevertheless, even though includingturmeric in food is an effective way tohelp the organism in manifold ways,possible side effects must not be over-looked: because of its choleretic andproperties, its use is contraindicated inthe presence of gallstones and seriousliver diseases. A final note, which is not very relevantto cooking, is that because of its extra-ordinary colour, turmeric is used as adye for the robes of Buddhist priests,inter alia. Its versatility makes it an in-teresting spice in many ways.

GIANNI ZOCCHI

THE ACADEMY SILVER PLATEAn elegant silver plated dish engraved with the Academy logo. This symbolic object may be presented to restaurants that displayexceptional service, cuisine and hospitality. Delegates may contact the Milan Headquarters ([email protected]) for more information and orders.


A delicate vegetable to enjoy throughout a meal, if sufficiently fresh.

Courgettes: from appetiser to dessert

T he courgette is one of those ve-getables that everyone likes. It’savailable in shops and marketsall year round, but of course it tastesbest when grown in an open field, ratherthan in a greenhouse or imported fromother continents, and picked betweenMay and October, since it is sensitive tocold and especially frost. Productive andeasy to grow, it offers innumerable cu-linary possibilities: raw, fried, grilled,steamed, boiled – and furthermore itsflower (known in some dialects as ‘sciu-rillo’ or ‘fiorillo’, meaning ‘little flower’)is highly prized and often fried or stuffed.Courgettes come in many shapes fromcylindrical to round, an ideal shape forbeing stuffed, and in many colours ran-ging from emerald green to white oryellow. Nutritionally, courgettes are mostly water,low in calories, and rich in vitamins Aand C as well as potassium. Known

scientifically as Cucurbita pepo, the plantoriginated in Mexico, where it has beencultivated for over 5000 years; it arrivedin Europe in the 16th century and ispart of the Cucurbitaceae (gourd) familywhich includes other vegetables andfruits such as cucumber, pumpkin, melonand watermelon. When purchasing courgettes, one mustascertain their freshness, as they dete-riorate swiftly: the skin should have avibrant colour and no blemishes, andthe flower must not show signs of wilting.Smaller courgettes are advisable becausethey contain fewer seeds. By and largethey are easily digested, though onemust bear in mind that their digestibilitydepends to some extent on cooking me-thod, since they are prone to absorbother ingredients. They are lightest whensteamed or boiled. A hundred grammesof raw courgettes are almost 95% waterand contain between 1 and 1.5 grammes

of protein and about the same amountof carbohydrates as well as approximately0.1 grammes of fat. Courgette variants fall into two maincategories, namely the light-hued cour-gette, which can be cylindrical whiletending towards a rounded or ovoidshape, and the dark-hued courgette,which is elongated with dark green skin.Among the most common cultivars arethe striped Neapolitan (elongated withmarked striations), the black Milanese(elongated, firm-fleshed and uniformlydark), the Florentine (club-shaped, light-hued and striated with pronounced lon-gitudinal grooves) the Sicilian (somewhatpear-shaped with skin of a very lightgreen colour), the round Piacenza cour-gette (dark green), and the round Nicecourgette (light-coloured and flattenedat the ‘poles’). They are cut in differentways depending on the method of pre-paration: sliced lengthwise (for grilling),sliced crosswise (for pan-frying or in-clusion in rice dishes or soups), diced(for stews or soups), brunoise cut (toeat raw), or julienned or matchstick cut(for frying or inclusion in sauces). Italy, always an abundant courgette pro-ducer, even entered the Guinness Bookof World Records a few years ago forthe largest courgette in the world (over2 metres long), harvested in the provinceof Ferrara. For the table, we can suggest severaleasy and flavoursome recipes rangingfrom appetisers to desserts: courgettecarpacciowith pecorino scales; tagliatellewith courgettes and crispy bacon; an-chovy and courgette flan; and the mostwhimsical, a courgette and chocolatecake which is worth recommending.

BY GIUSEPPE ANASTASIODelegate for Salerno

C U L T U R E A N D R E S E A R C HS O M M A R I OC U L T U R E & R E S E A R C H

GGabriele D’Annunzio has hisplace in the literary panthe-on. He was a highly regardedpoet and man of letters, but also acontroversial character who led anintense and tumultuous life. He lovedbeautiful women with an intense, madpassion pervaded by overwhelmingsensuality. He combined romantic pas-sion with a visceral dedication to thepleasures of the table, consideringthe latter an invigorating conclusionto amorous encounters. His existencewas punctuated by such passions untilthe day he died. He was not interested

in the act of eating as an end in itself:“it seems... bestial and humiliating…to feed and gorge voraciously”. Anysocial gathering, whether it occurredin a rustic setting, outdoors, or in theelegantly refined salons of his ownhomes, had to have a ritual significancedictated by the occasion, and mustbe planned with meticulous care. Heclaimed to be restrained in eating, tolove frugal repasts, but in truth hehad a healthy and formidable appetiteover which he often exerted conside-rable mastery. He claimed to be a tee-totaller, but could appreciate an ex-

cellent glass of fine wine and especiallyan effervescent chalice of Champagne,if drunk in the company of a beautifulwoman. He was a splendid host. Heloathed slovenliness. He wanted tablesto be elegantly and luxuriously set,so that they shone with silver cutleryand the most sumptuous and preciouscrystals; they should be adorned withporcelains, floral decorations and fruit,because only this would satisfy theburgeoning aesthetic sense which per-meated every aspect of his life. He was an adept connoisseur of thefeminine soul, whose weaknesses, de-sires and cravings he was able to com-prehend. He never neglected to offerbonbons, marrons glacés, fondantsand chocolates to the winsome ladies;he felt a subtle pleasure in observinghow slowly and sensuously they sa-voured these delicacies. He used foodto marry love and pleasure, as a se-ductive weapon and a potently eroticforce. Woman, for him, was alwaysan idealised figure to be conquered.Nothing delighted him more than tosit at a carefully prepared table bycandle light, in the company of hisbeloved, in order to win over her heart,overcome her every scruple and hesi-tation, and envelop her in the headycoils of “love’s extreme drunkenness”,whispering beguiling and insinuatingwords of love, surrounded by goosepâté, sliced pheasant, lobster, caviareand Champagne. Upon every dish hepresented, he bestowed a specific si-gnificance which contributed to thecrescendo of the amorous ritual. Hisdining hall was always worthy of asultan. He often welcomed his ladies

BY MARIA ATTILIA FABBRI DALL’OGLIORome Academician

Surrounded by caviare, goose pâté, Champagne and beautiful women.

D’Annunzio at the table


in the music room, where he offeredthem exotic sweetmeats, chilled wine,and ripe, fragrant fruit. Following themusic, the food, “which becomes amystical prelude” to love, had to beprepared by the rules and artfully pre-sented. The dishes of his native Abruzzo oc-cupied a special place in his heart.When visiting Abruzzo, he enjoyedsitting at the dining table on the bal-cony “overlooking the countryside”and savour the flavoursome ‘macche-roni alla chitarra’ prepared by the re-sident maids. He was particularly pas-sionate about Abruzzo broth. He neverforgot the peasant-style soup, the suc-kling pig with fragrant Abruzzo herbs,and the parrozzo cake, which he con-sidered the heart of his native landand hailed as “the weightiest boulderof the Maiella”. When he resided atthe Vittoriale, Abruzzo foods alwaysmade an appearance at his table, toremind him of his origins and familiarflavours. He was also highly partialto cannelloni, which Albina, his belo-ved cook, often prepared for him. Hehad many culinary preferences, andseafood was among these. He had averitable passion for all sweets. Inevery circumstance he felt an uncon-trollable desire for ice cream; if heknew that nobody was watching, hewas likely to devour ten or twelve ina row, or so claims Tom Annigoni inVita segreta di Gabriele D’Annunzio(Gabriele D’Annunzio’s Secret Life). First and foremost, however, was hiscraving for meat, especially game ofall types. His friend Jarro (Giulio Pic-cini) always presented him with ga-stronomic surprises. The dinner partieshe organised for his friend Gabrieleat the villa La Capponcina have retai-ned untarnished fame. The dinner ta-ble was dominated by game, and inparticular, hare à la Gabriele D’An-nunzio.The Bard has left us unforgettable re-collections of Rome. He arrived in theEternal City aged nineteen, remainingfor six years (1882-1888), and writingin the society pages of the capital’s

newspapers, especially the Tribuna.He always returned to Rome, whosebeautiful artworks, pleasant climateand alluring women he valued. Hisjournalistic career kept his finger onthe pulse of city life, portrayed in hisfamous work Il Piacere (Pleasure). Hewas enthusiastic about going on daytrips to the Roman Castles. Sitting atthe table of an inn located in AlbanoLaziale, he would be heartily welco-med by the old innkeeper who wouldprepare all the dishes he loved themost, particularly, in addition to game,“artichokes, peas, broccoli, roast lamb,pullets, fruit and especially grapes”.In this limited space one cannot evendo justice to a representative selectionof his amorous encounters and thedinners where he was hosted by theRoman aristocracy, but it is worth re-calling the meal which D’Annunziodescribes in the Tribuna, drawn fromthe onager-skin diary of Donna Claribel(a recurring fictitious character in hissociety articles, based on a real ac-

quaintance) and reproduced in hisbook Cronache romane (Roman Chro-nicles). This is an account of a sum-ptuous feast following a lengthy hun-ting expedition which ended near theShrine of Our Lady of Divine Love,where the hounds had finally flushedout the fox. “What a formidably strongappetite comes from hunting!” Theparticipants’ hunger was of a calibrewhich required succulent victuals. Thebanquet served was unforgettable,and consisted entirely of game, fishand wild fowl, including “a hare exu-ding the fragrance of the thyme androsemary it had nibbled all summer”.To follow there was a glazed goosepâté infused with truffle, partridgesprepared in manifold ways, flawlesslyaged sliced pheasant “doused in theliquors of beef marrow and sprinkledwith truffle”, delicacies which led hisprotagonist to declare: “What a delight!May the Good Lord forgive my sin ofgluttony”.

MARIA ATTILIA FABBRI DALL’OGLIO

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Both of these food choices ex-clude all animal f lesh, butthough all vegans are by defi-nition vegetarians, not all vegetariansare vegans, who abstain not only frommeat and fish, but also eggs, milk,dairy products and even honey, sinceit is derived from animals! In the past, vegetarianism spread as areligious principle, as in India’s Jainreligion (from the 6th century BC, inthe same period as Buddhism), whichrepresented a lifestyle aspiring to hu-man perfection, based especially onnon-violence, and therefore on notkilling animals or harming any lifeform. For instance, in addition to beingstrict vegetarians, some Jains filtertheir breath through a piece of cloth

to avoid harming even the or-ganisms in the air! Veganism, aneologism coined in 1944 by theBriton Donald Watson as a con-traction of “Veg(etari)an Society”,found its ‘Bible’ with the publica-

tion of The China Study by the Ame-rican nutritionist Colin Campbell. Thebook presented the results of a vastepidemiological study begun in 1983and lasting approximately 27 years,investigating the habits prevalent in128 Chinese villages and published inItaly in 2004. Without going into detailabout Campbell’s conclusions, it is no-teworthy that in its assessment of die-tary and other causes of serious healthproblems, the study did not considerthe effect of environmental pollution,smoke, alcohol and a sedentary life-style. Though it is indubitably healthy tolimit the consumption (especially interms of quantity) of certain foodstuffs,excluding them altogether from one’sdiet (in other words, in today’s par-lance, one’s lifestyle) is another matterentirely. Today strict vegans wear onlyclothes derived from vegetable or syn-thetic fibres; they also oppose experi-ments on animals, hunting, fishing,horse or dog races, zoos and aquaria. If “pure” veganism is well-nigh impos-sible, one should exercise commonsense, avoiding extremism, in part be-cause rigid limitations in one’s dietcan cause serious and even irreversibleharm. There are different vegetarianvariations: semi-vegetarians, who avoidonly red meat but not white (fowl,rabbit); ovo-vegetarians, who avoidall animal products except eggs; lac-

to-vegetarians, who eliminate all ani-mal products other than milk and itsderivatives; raw vegetarians or vegans,who eat only raw food; and fruitarians,who feed exclusively on fruit. In a nut-shell, it can be argued that vegetariansabide by a specific diet, while vegansfollow a lifestyle. Let us recall some famous “vegeta-rians”: Pythagoras, considered thefounder of vegetarianism; Epicurus;Leonardo; Einstein. Today, not only for health reasons,the modification of traditional dietaryhabits has become a fashion, but aboveall a mass phenomenon: the Italianvegan and vegetarian population in-creases by 1% each year and representsalmost 8% of the population. Italy hasbecome the second most vegetarian/ve-gan State in the EU after Germany. Itis not possible, as has been stated re-cently, to establish a causative nexusbetween dairy, egg and meat consum-ption and degenerative diseases, be-cause there are many variables at play,and these also depend on amount con-sumed, cooking method, age, gender,lifestyle and physical activity level. From a nutritional and health-con-scious perspective, the Mediterraneandiet and its food pyramid (with a re-duced consumption of meat, especiallyred and cured meats, and an increasein fish, vegetable and fruit consum-ption) is the most recommended, com-bined with maintenance of an adequatebody weight and moderate regularphysical exercise; finally, it is advisableto seek variety in meals, consume smallportions, and be sparing with salt (re-placing it with spices) and sugar.

BY NICOLA BARBERAMilano Duomo Academician

Italy has become the second most vegetarian/vegan country in the EU after Germany.

Vegetarians and vegans

civi lt À tavola - accademia italiana della cucina · pasta a yellow hue when added to its cooking...

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