circular fashion manifesto

Circular Fashion MANIFESTO

SUSTAINABILITY LABMONITOR FOR CIRCULAR FASHION

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Signatories

CANDIANI DENIM

DEDAGROUP STEALTH

I COTONI DI ALBINI

INTESA (IBM GROUP)

MANTECO

PLM IMPIANTI

OSCALITO

OVS

RADICIGROUP

SAVE THE DUCK

TEMERA

VIBRAM

VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SRL

The KPIs identification has been supported by the

KPIs Committe of the Monitor for Circular Fashion

composed by Bip and PwC.

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Introduction

The Monitor for Circular Fashion is a multi-

stakeholder Scientific and Technological

community involving leading companies in the

fashion industry and players in its supply chain

part of SDA Bocconi School of Management

Sustainability Lab.

The Monitor for Circular Fashion is powered by

Enel X and disseminates the best practices of

circular fashion, promoting technical, managerial

and scientific skills, contributing to the transition

towards circular business models.

www.sdabocconi.it/circularfashion

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THE MONITOR FOR CIRCULAR FASHION

intends to...

MAP AND ANALYSE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DYNAMICS AND CIRCULARITY TRENDS IN THE NEXT FIVE YEARS

EXAMINE HOW THESE TRENDS AND THE 2030 AGENDA WILL AFFECT BUSINESS MODELS

IDENTIFY CIRCULAR FASHION KPIs AND SUGGESTA CIRCULAR PATH FOR EACH BUSINESS MODEL

DEFINE REQUIREMENTS TO EVALUATE THE SCALE-UP OF CIRCULARITY PROJECTS

CREATE THE ITALIAN COMMUNITY FOR CIRCULAR FASHION

ENHANCE TRACEABILITY AND TRANSPARENCY FOR CIRCULARITY,

THROUGH THE DEVELOPMENT OF SUSTAINABILITY CLAIMS AT A B2B

AND B2C LEVEL

ENCOURAGE GOVERNMENTS TO ADOPT AN HARMONIZED POLICY

FRAMEWORK TO SUPPORT CIRCULAR FASHION INITIATIVES

PRODUCE THE “CIRCULAR FASHION MANIFESTO” AND AN ANNUAL REPORT TO BE PRESENTED TO COMPANIES

AND INDUSTRY ASSOCIATIONS, INSTITUTIONS AND OTHER KEY

STAKEHOLDERS

INSPIRE THE FASHION INDUSTRY THROUGH OUR MISSION, VALUES

AND ACTIONS AND LEAD THE WAY FOR ALL STAKEHOLDERS

TO A SUSTAINABLE AND CIRCULAR FUTURE

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The following Circular Fashion Manifesto

is answering the UNECE “Sustainability

Pledge” inviting all actors in the garment and

footwear industry to take action for traceability

and transparency in order to accelerate the

sustainability and circularity of value chains

in this industry, in line with the United Nations

2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development.

The initiative aims to establish a mechanism

to support the uptake of measures in the UNECE

Recommendation No. 46 as well as relevant

UN/CEFACT standards, and to support the

monitoring of their implementation.

RAW MATERIAL SOURCING

MANUFACTURING OF SEMI-FINISHED

PRODUCTS

DISTRIBUTION, WHOLESALE AND RETAIL + ETAILING

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ECO-DESIGN

LOGISTICS, WAREHOUSING AND

TRANSPORTATION

END-OF-LIFE SERVICES:

RECYCLING, REUSE AND REGENERATION

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POLICY ACTIONS, NORMS &

STANDARDS

INCENTIVES

R&DAWARENESS & EDUCATION

MULTI-STAKEHOLDER COLLABORATIVE

INITIATIVES

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MANUFACTURING OF FINISHED PRODUCTS

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CIRCULAR VALUE CHAIN

ACTIVITIES

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STANDARDS

INCENTIVES

R&DAWARENESS& EDUCATION

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UNECE POLICY RECOMMENDATION

MEASURES

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PRODUCTS


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ECO-DESIGN


TRANSPORTATION



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STANDARDS

INCENTIVES



INITIATIVES

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PRODUCTS


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ECO-DESIGN


TRANSPORTATION



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STANDARDS

INCENTIVES



INITIATIVES

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The companies participating in “The Monitor for Circular Fashion”

commit to:

• gather information required to positively boost progress

towards sustainability and more importantly reduce their

negative impact on our planet;

• enhance circularity and sustainability of value chains through

transparency and traceability;

• implement circular business processes along their value chains;

• adopt common indicators(1) to measure progress on circularity in their

value chains and report the results;

• encourage high quality waste management;

• raise public awareness and educate all relevant stakeholders

on the positive impacts of sustainable and circular production and

consumption;

• exchange experiences and cooperate with other multi-stakeholder

circular initiatives.

The Pledge

(¹)The complete KPIs list and guidelines for measuring are available on the website www.sdabocconi.it/circularfashion. Each company will decide the timeframe for implementing the KPIs. Companies are committing to select as many KPIs as possible, according to their own business models and the activities of the value chain they are managing. The KPIs are still being evaluated among the companies of the Monitor for Circular Fashion and will be tested in the coming months.

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1 ECO-DESIGN

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UNECE Policy Recommendation N.46 Measures

1 ECO-DESIGN

We commit to liaise with multi-stakeholder initiatives focusing on eco-design.

Sample KPIs:

% of multi-stakeholder collaborations that apply

eco-design(2) principles on total multi-stakeholder

collaborations;

% of kg/meters/ units provided with repairing services;

% reduction of energy use of recycling vs linear

processes.

(2)The definition of eco-design agreed with the community of companies signing the Manifesto for Circular Fashion is the following: “Design that allows the reuse of waste, enables keeping products and materials in use, grants regeneration of natural systems” (Monitor for Circular Fashion Report 2021, adapted from Ellen MacArthur Foundation https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/circular-economy/concept).

Policy actions, norms & standards

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R&DIII

Multi-stakeholdercollaborative initiatives

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2 RAW MATERIAL SOURCING

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Policy actions, norms & standards

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Awareness & EducationIV

We commit to measure traceability by identifying clear and relevant KPIs.

We commit to increase research on sustainable and circular materials.

We commit to reduce textile waste on total raw material.

Sample KPIs:

% pre-consumer waste volume on total material

recovered for circular projects in the year;

% of raw materials (kg/meters/units) including relevant

and reliable data and information shared for disclosure

available for partners of the value chain;

% of raw materials (kg/meters/units) including

sustainable certification (i.e. animal welfare,

organic, etc…).

2 RAW MATERIALS SOURCING

3 MANUFACTURING OF SEMI-FINISHED

PRODUCTS

4 MANUFACTURING OF FINISHED

PRODUCTS

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We commit to enhance joint commitments on traceability.

We commit to perform and provide training on responsible manufacturing.

We commit to support shared audits, to grant higher efficiency for suppliers and support interoperability among auditing platforms.

Here are some examples of initiatives already in place:Amfori BSCI https://www.amfori.org

4 sustainability https://www.4sustainability.it

HIGG index https://apparelcoalition.org/the-higg-index/

OAR https://info.openapparel.org

Social Labor Convergence Program https://slconvergence.org

Sedex https://www.sedex.com

WRAP https://wrapcompliance.org

Sample KPIs:

% of traced kg/meters/units (on total number

of kg/meters/units);

number of phases traced on the total phases covered

in the value chain(*);

% of recycled water on total production

(kg/meters/units);

% of yield on total raw material used in the year;

% of by-products recovered for circular economy projects

on total material used in the year.

(*) cotton value chain phases, synthetic fibers value chain phases, wool value chain phases are presented in the following slides.


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R&DIII

3-4 MANUFACTURING OF SEMI-FINISHED AND FINISHED PRODUCTS

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COTTON VALUE CHAIN PHASES (Monitor for Circular Fashion, 2021)

1. Planting and cultivation of cotton 2. Cotton harvest identification & transfer from farmer to ginner 3. Ginning & transfer to spinner 4. Spinning & transfer to dyer, bleacher, washer 5. Dyeing, bleaching, washing & transfer to weaver 6. Weaving/kitting and transfer to fabric finisher 7. Garment or product production & transfer to ennoblement 8. Product Ennoblement & packaging and transfer to “retailer” 9. Placement of product in stores or on-line for sale10. Consumption and disposal11. Post consumption recycling

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SYNTHETIC FIBERS VALUE CHAIN PHASES (Monitor for Circular Fashion, 2021)

1. Raw materials 2. Polymerization 3. Extrusion,spinning and solutiondyeing (more sustainable option) 4. Pre-consumer recycling operations (during all production phases) 5. Possible transformations (texturizing/drawing/twisting/warping) 6. Possible yarn dyeing 7. Transfer to weaver 8. Weaving/kitting and transfer to fabric/trim finisher 9. Garment or product production & transfer to ennoblement10. Product Ennoblement & packaging and transfer to wholesaler/retailer11. Placement of product in stores or on-line for sale12. Consumption13. Reverse logistics and sorting operations14. Post consumption recycling (within the same or a different industry)15. Disposal

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WOOL VALUE CHAIN STEPS (Monitor for Circular Fashion, 2021)

1. Sheep breeding and shearing at farm 2. Selling through auctions systems or private selling and invoicing & transfer to washer and scourer 3. Washing and scouring & transfer to tops dyer 4. Possible tops dyeing & transfer to giller 5. Gilling & transfer to spinner 6. Spinning & transfer to yarn dyer 7. Possible yarn dyeing & transfer to warper 8. Warping & transfer to weaver 9. Weaving & transfer to mender10. Mending & transfer to fabric dyer11. Possible fabric dyeing & transfer finisher12. Finishing & possible transfer to quality controller13. Quality control and packaging & transfer to garment maker14. Garment or product production & transfer to ennoblement15. Product Ennoblement and packaging & transfer to retailer16. Placement of product in stores or on-line for sale17. Consumption18. Post consumption recycling19. Disposal

5 LOGISTICS, WAREHOUSING AND

TRANSPORTATION

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We commit to adopt agreed methodologies to measure data related to transportation in order to achieve decarbonization, starting from Scope 1(*).

Sample KPIs:

Measuring the CO2 emissions of the transportation in

tons/number of units produced;

disclosing the CO2 emissions of the transportation in

tons/number of units produced;

(*) Scope 1 = direct GHG emissions that occur

from sources that are controlled or owned by an

organization.

5 LOGISTICS, WAREHOUSING AND TRANSPORTATION


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6 DISTRIBUTION, WHOLESALE AND RETAIL + ETAILING

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We commit to engage and educate all relevant stakeholders including final users, on responsible consumption.

We commit to respect the guidelines on sustainability claims developed by UNECE.

Sample KPIs:

% of kg/meters/units with additional sustainability

information on the products;

number of awareness and education campaigns on

end-of-life targeting the final users;

% of repaired kg/meters/units on total kg/meters/units

of returns.

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7 END-OF-LIFE SERVICES: RECYCLING, REUSE AND REGENERATION

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We commit to engage and educate final users to extend the life of products.

Sample KPIs:

% of kg/meters/units entirely made with biodegradable

or compostable raw materials on total kg/meters/units;

% of post-consumer waste per destination (reusing,

repurposing, recycling, recycling, downcycling, landfill

incineration, waste to energy);

% of collected kg/meters/units.

7 END-OF-LIFE SERVICES: RECYCLING, REUSE AND REGENERATION


SUSTAINABILITY LABMONITOR FOR CIRCULAR FASHION

circular fashion manifesto

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