Christmas Island 2005

A tropical seabird paradise…….

Bosuns, frigates, boobies and crabs

11th April It had seemed like weeks ago when we left the UK already when our Avro RJ took off into clear blue skies from Perth WA and turned north for the 2300km journey to Christmas Island, which geographically is Indonesia, only 300kms south of Jakarta but is politically Australian overseas territory. A short refuelling stop in Learmouth in the NW corner of this unique continent (a lovely pair of Welcome Swallows joined us in the transit lounge to escape the 33 degree heat outside) and then out over the Indian Ocean heading for our final destination. Early afternoon saw us coming in over a largely forested island, with some obvious scars from the phosphate mining showing through in patchs, and landing smoothly at the small airport. A smiling face and our 4x4 ready to go, we drove the short distance north to the settlement, located at the north east corner of the island. The island rises steeply from the ocean floor, with limestone cliffs and an inshore

coral reef before the depths drop away. 63% is now a National Park, with a higher rate of endemism than any other protected area in the continent (over 200 endemic species and still rising) Five full endemic birds are found, two seabirds and three landbirds but my main quest was a bird that I didn’t know existed until Marie Rathbone (of the original Subbuteo Natural History Books fame) mentioned them one weekend in North Wales a while back. The island also holds two breeding tropicbirds, Red-tailed and White-tailed. Whilst the Red-taileds include a proportion of birds flushed with pink over their bodies, the majority of the White-tailed are known locally as Golden Bosuns, the bird’s body plumage and tail streamers being a rich golden apricot colour. The illustration in the original “Seabirds’ by Peter Harrison gave some clue as to the beauty of these already stunning species but the pictures I was e-mailed last summer clinched it, I wanted to see and photograph these gems myself. As we descended the hill towards the settlement our first tropics wheeled overhead, pink Red-taileds. I nearly drove off the road when the first Golden Bosuns appeared, circling over the trees by the road, it had already been worth the very long journey. They do not just have a hint of colour, they are deeply golden-yellow, suffused throughout their entire plumage. 3000 – 10,000 pairs exist only here. They are only very occasionally seen off the NW coasts of Australia. We quickly settled into our oceanview room, loaded up our birding gear in the vehicle and drove back down the road. We only got about 200 metres when a Australian (Nankeen) Kestrel landed on a lamppost above us. As we took shots of the obliging preening falcon a cackle of bosuns alerted us to another five golden birds. A variety of frigatebirds were also cruising around, and within a few minutes a male Christmas Island Frigatebird drifted low over our heads, the red throat and white belly patch showing. A steady stream of Brown and Red-footed Boobies cruised by too. After a short stop at the visitor centre we drove on up to the National Park Headquarters for the late afternoon bird feeding. We found a group of buildings and parked up. The giveaway building was the one with about 10 frigatebirds lined up on the roof, TV ariel and garden chairs! At 4.30 on the dot, Max Orchard, boss of the National Park came out of what was his house and proceeded to feed his garden birds with fish from a bucket. An unforgettable sight with the greedy pirates flying around literally inches from our faces as they devoured their offerings. Two of the youngsters he had hand-reared, the others had been looked after in the past. The fish quickly exhausted we were asked if we would like to see something else which had been brought in yesterday. He disappeared into another building and then emerged a few minutes later with a long pole. Sitting on the end was a fledged Abbott’s Booby, the rarest sulavide in the world, a population of just 3000 pairs breed on the island. The bird happily walked off its stick and sat in the shade of the hedge, allowing close photos. A seemingly genetic defect meant it would never fly and he admitted one of the options facing it was putting it down. I rather hope he keeps it instead. As if this excitement wasn’t enough, a large dark pigeon flew over and landed in a tree above us, another endemic, Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon. Small swiftlets flew around the forest edges, the island race of Glossy Swiftlet. We drove a few hundred yards to the nursery and parked up again. Yet another endemic, Christmas Island White-eye and a few seconds later, our first Christmas Island Thrush, an island race of a mainland Australian species. Introduced Java Sparrow completed our first excursion as we headed back to The Sunset as the rain started. From our balcony a continual procession of Red-footed Boobies passed by, another island endemic race. The birds here are white morphs but with yellow

heads, somewhat Australian Gannet-like (except for their white tails). Brown Boobies also flew past whilst frigatebirds wheeled up high, including a classic pair of the endemic species. The occasional Brown Noddy flew past low over the sea. The ‘Christmas Island Airforce’ is what the locals nickname the ever present seabirds. The sun broke through the murk on the horizon for a minute or so before sinking again until tomorrow, our balcony enlivened by eight small geckos actively pursuing and catching their prey.

12th April This morning seemed much brighter weather-wise, the sun already warming the air rapidly within an hour of dawn. We drove back to the National Park HQ and parked up, walking to the lookout. Christmas Island Frigates hung in the wind and wheeled around whilst Red-footed and Brown Boobies also glided by. Tropicbirds were also occasionally going past but too far below for decent photos. We drove back to the HQ and called in to see if we could get some gen from the Park staff. Luckily David James was still on the island, author of the recent paper on Indian Ocean frigatebirds published in Birding Asia (Vol 1) and he was a mine of useful information. During our chat I learnt that no DNA work has been done on the tropicbirds so far, whilst he himself was working on the frigates, not only having pretty much sussed out the I.D of all sexes and ages of the three species but he was also working on a paper in respect of the island’s Great Frigatebirds, which he had summized were a distinct subspecies from other populations. He also told me the island’s goshawk was now a distinct species, bringing the bird total to at least six full endemics. Because of the island’s location, it had become a bit of a hot spot for Australian lister’s, it’s potential for adding new birds to the country’s list almost endless. After a good ole Aussie breakfast in one of the cafés, we headed past the port to Flying Fish Cove, where it is safe to snorkel straight from the boat jetty at high tide. What lay beneath the water was a pleasant surprise, a coral reef with very healthy coral (unlike the Maldives last year) and a good population of tropical fishes. Pretty much all colours of the rainbow were on display, both fishes and corals, a very pleasant hour with Brown Noddies picking food off the water’s surface just yards from us at times as a small avian bonus. We had hoped for Whalesharks but although they had had many these past months none were still present (they had arrived earlier than normal and in bigger numbers, post

Asian Tsunami) Early afternoon found us at Smith Point. An hour of tropicbird photography (more success with Red-tailed than Golden’s) plus close views of the island’s white-eyes, another pair of Nankeen Kestrel and some large butterflies. Late afternoon and we headed onto the forested plateau of the island and towards the western end. Driving along the wide dirt road we began to see the first of many crabs, the island’s endemic Red Crabs (famed for their annual migration to the sea and back, usually November/December time) plus Blue Crabs too and the most enormous crabs Ive ever seen, Robbers, which walked forwards unlike the two others which went sideways. Flocks of white-eyes were common, frigates and boobies with the odd tropicbird overhead. We went off road down a steep little track, having to lift off two small trees in the process to get to the end, Martin Point. Located on the uninhabited west coast of the island, a beautiful forested bay with a wavecut platform along the shore and Mangroves some metres above sea level. Red-footed Boobies were starting to build their nests in the trees, a Brown Booby on rocks just in front of us, preening and trying to cool down in the still warm afternoon sunshine. Frigates wheeled overhead, some specks way above us. Classic male Great and Lessers were amongst them. As we drove back along the main dirt road we stopped by one of the crab crossings (grids), armed with information from David and sure enough as I turned the ignition off the sounds of ‘an old man groaning’ could be heard above. The endemic Abbott’s Boobies nest here in the main forest, on large trees. The adults return from sea late afternoon and the ever-hungry juniors sure know it’s feeding time. Difficult to photograph because of the dense leaf coverage, we enjoyed excellent scope views as the adults preen whilst the youngsters mutter to themselves in the vague hope of another meal. The rarest and largest of their family, Abbott’s have rarely been seen away from the island, unlike other boobies they prefer to roost in trees rather than on the sea outside of the breeding season. Affected by mining operations on the island in the past, about 3000 pairs exist currently. They are classified, along with the island’s other special seabirds as critically endangered. The entire island’s unique eco-system is under threat from rapidily expanding populations of Crazy Yellow Ants, an unwelcome introduced species from Indonesia which the National Park staff are fighting on a major basis. We returned to the settlement by 5.30 to enjoy our accommodation’s namesake, a fiery sunset to be followed by a stunning southern hemisphere star show after dark.

13th April Just after first light we drove to the eastern end of the settlement, to a small rocky promontory, where a few pairs of Red-tailed Tropicbirds or Silver Bosuns nest. We sat in the already hot morning as a few of the adults flew round before making their final landing approach. The larger of the two species here, readily identifiable without optics at some distance, looking like small white egrets in flight, very white with rounded wings (and looking ‘tail-less’), whilst the Golden’s were slim and sleek, with pointed wings with long tail streamers clearly visable, even at a distance. Sitting birds tolerated close approach, making photography easy. The usual endless stream of boobies plus frigatebirds overhead all the time. Brown Noddies flew up and down the coastline, picking up morsels from the water’s surface. A pair of Eastern reef Herons flew by. We returned for breakfast at the Rockfall Café, interrupted by the return from the ocean of a Golden Bosun whose nest was amongst the rocks and trees above the café. A second snorkel was somewhat disappointing due to the amount of rubbish in the water, brought in by the currents from Indonesia, another example of the long distant effects dumping rubbish in the seas can have sadly. Most of the rest of the day was fairly frustrating, multiple attempts to get good shots of Golden Bosun’s came to nothing. Late afternoon and we returned to Smith Point and scanned the bay. In the very far distance we could see the island’s Spinner Dolphins in a feeding frenzy with boobies and what looked like tuna. We drove on a little further down a track and enjoyed our first Emerald Doves, which like all the other landbirds, were very confiding and gave great views. We reached the golf course just before dusk and positioned ourselves at hole 17. Christmas Island Frigates and Red-Footed Boobies were nesting in the trees, the frigates have the most amazing calls, accurately described as like a ‘Continental police siren’. Only 2000-2500 pairs of the endemic frigatebird remain, making it the rarest in the world. As darkness fell, Robber Crabs started advancing out of the forest onto the greens. A medium-large nightjar hawked around a couple of times, perhaps a Grey? Two night herons sp also flew over but no sign of our main quarry, the island’s endemic owl.

14th April As the day broke, small groups of boobies started returning from their night’s feeding, the frigates already out over the ocean trying to intercept them as they returned. We drove back to Smith Point and this time success, decent shots of Golden Bosuns returning to their nests, one of which had to crash through a tree to get to it’s crevice. After a celebratory breakfast at Rockfall, we loaded up our 4x4 and headed into the interior of the island to explore the forest and coastline. First stop was a small roadside pool on which a continual sucession of frigatebirds flew in and were drinking water on the wing. A single vagrant Australian Black-winged Stilt bobbed up and down nervously. We drove on again and stopped briefly to photograph one of the national park signs. Possibly a bit sad but it gave us an unexpected bonus. One of the mine’s roadtrains roared past and as it did a small brown raptor came out of the trees and flew towards us. It landed just in side a tree on the other side and we were staring at another endemic, the island’s Brown Goshawk, which glared back and finally went further in after a few minutes, in spite of a tempting flock of white-eyes present. On down a rough track to the south coast and the blowholes. Another stunning coastline, forested with seabirds drifting over and along offshore. The blowholes were worth a visit, they roared and sent plumes of water metres into the sky, more like geysers. We next headed for Hugh’s Dale Waterfall at the western end, stopping at the nesting Abbot’s Boobies on the way. Although still early afternoon, the first adults were already circling overhead, some flight shots finally. We drove down another rough track, parked up and followed the boardwalk into the forest and to the delightful little falls. We had already worked out we were pretty much the only tourists on the island which meant we had all these wonderful sites to ourselves. The forest floor here was full of crabs, reds, blues and robbers. As we walked up the last section to the little falls, we flushed a medium size bird with very rufous wings. It landed on a rock in view and we were looking at a really rather smart little heron, a Rufous or Nankeen Night Heron which had been on the island for nearly a year. I had also twice seen what looked like ‘black raptors’ and finally the mystery was solved. As we sat by the falls two endemic fruit bats came in to feed in a tree above us, climbing around the branches like monkeys. Back out to the main road and back to the Abbott’s Boobies and more adults wheeling around in the sky. We enjoyed views of an adult feeding its very hungry offspring, before moving to a different branch to preen and rest afterwards. Back to the settlement for sunset, the Spinner Dolphins could be seen in the distance, some throwing themselves out of the sea as they waited for nightfall and their main feeding time. Green (and occasionally Hawksbill) Turtles can nest year-round so after a early pub dinner it was off to Dolly Beach, on the eastern side. This time we drove down the roughest track yet, which started to get steeper, the further we went. Unusually for this island, once off the road, there were no signs and we soon had taken two false turns. We finally came to a very muddy bit and chickened out! The prospects of a multi-mile walk just to the main mining road was not too enticing if we got stuck. Back on the road north we stopped to admire the night skies and too listen. Our first stop yielded a two-note call in the middle

distance, the final endemic, Christmas Island Hawk Owl but no prospect of views of course. No complaints about hearing one though.

15th April Back to Smith Point just after dawn for some more bosun photography. We had three nests located but with a lack of luck I missed two of the birds which flew straight in first time, I never even got to lift the camera. Two high circling Abbott’s Boobies were a bonus though, going out to sea to feed. They are not seen from the main Settlement as they tend to fly in and out over the north coast. Our final snorkel already, still some garbage in the water but more colourful fish and coral galore. We returned to the National Park and spoke to David again to report some of our sightings. The young Abbott’s Booby wasn’t around, it had walked off somewhere in the compound. It had been replaced by a adult Red-Footed Booby brought in that morning, with a broken wing. A visit to the island’s internet café proved frustrating, Chris Collins had just e-mailed the recce report for the new Western Pacific Odyssey but due to the slowness of the satellite link I couldn’t open it. Something extra to look forward to when we got back to mainland Australia. Back to our accommodation to avoid the excessive heat for a few hours, the usual feeding group of noddies joined by a tern sp for a few minutes. An adult Cattle Egret also flew past, both unusual for the island. Late afternoon and we drove down to the other eastern beaches, Liley and Ethel. The Red-footed Boobies had just started their breeding season and the trees were full of birds in the early stages of nest building. Birds could be seen walking around on the forest floor picking up sticks whilst a pair were in the middle of a small live tree trying to rip branches with leaves off without much success. Large numbers of Red Crabs were everywhere and we enjoyed more super views of the Emerald Doves. David had mentioned the rubbish tip was one of the best places for vagrants but I had previously decided I was not going to visit the place. I swung left at the sign for a quick peek. It seemed quiet apart from a big gang of white-eyes which were very endearing. They seem to be very sociable and gregarious and we even noticed mutual preening. I paid for my attempts to photograph them with six mossie bites in about as many seconds. We arrive back for our final sunset, a chilled glass of white wine in hand.

16th April Our final morning before flying back to Perth. Another post dawn attempt at Golden Bosun photography, I missed the one of the three birds that came back whilst I was standing there. Still, it was very pleasant in the morning sunshine, frigates and boobies wheeling overhead. Our final breaky at Rockfall, enlivened by another Golden Bosun which kept missing its nest crevice which meant it had to keep flying around my head repeatedly whilst the café owner looked on in amusement as I clicked away. We packed and I sat on the balcony for our last minutes. The most stunning Golden Bosun of the lot came flying by, just feet away from my face, a final farewell from this magical island. If you are serious about your seabirds, this is another place you have to add to your list of travelling destinations. John Brodie-Good 2005 All images copyright JBG

Species List

Christmas Island 11th – 16th April 2005

Observers John Brodie-Good and Sarah Thompson.

Birds

Abbott’s Booby Red-footed Booby (endemic race)

Brown Booby Great Frigatebird (CI subspecies)

Lesser Frigatebird Christmas Island Frigatebird

Silver Bosun (Red-tailed Tropicbird) Golden Bosun (White-tailed Tropicbird-endemic race)

Brown Noddy Eastern Reef Heron

Cattle Egret Rufous Night Heron

Australian Black-winged Stilt Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon

Emerald Dove Christmas Island Hawk Owl (heard only)

Nightjar sp Christmas Island Goshawk

Australian (Nankeen) Kestrel Christmas Island Thrush (CI subspecies)

Java Sparrow Tree Sparrow

Christmas Island White-eye

Christmas Island Glossy Swiftlet (CI subspecies)

Spinner Dolphin

Christmas Island Fruit Bat

Red Crab Blue Crab

Robber Crab

Selected Fish

Longtom Trumpetfish Peacock Cod Moray Eel sp

Reef Solderfish Parrotfish sp

Harlequin Cod Blue-striped Snapper Greenmoon Wrasse Lined Butterflyfish

Blue and Gold Fusilier Racoon Butterflyfish

Powderblue Surgeonfish Orange-spined Unicornfish Madagascar Butterflyfish

Blue Tang Moorish Idol

Indian Triggerfish Pennant Butterflyfish

Oval-spot Butterflyfish Big Long-nosed Butterflyfish

Pink Anemonefish Sergeant Major

Blue Tang Spotted Porcupinefish

Christmas Island can be reached by air from Perth (Australia) and Bali (Indonesia) .

Please contact WildWings for tailor-made birdwatching packages year round.

www.wildwings.co.uk