chicken in the good sauce - wordpress.com · 11/16/2016 · up, from a tree branch, traveling...

Twombly Family Recipe

Twombly Family Recipe Chicken in Good Sauce.docx

Chicken in the Good Sauce

After spending many years in a Norwegian household, and visiting Norway a few summers, I’ve come to

love Chicken in the Good Sauce. Some say it is bland, but I find its subtle flavor addictive. I’ve had versions

of this in good restaurants in France and Italy, and occasionally one can find something similar in the

American deep South. I could not find the same recipe anywhere, so I had to recall the recipe taught to

me many years ago by Ana Irene Lindevaldsen Andersen from Stavanger, Norway. Her onkel Siggy would

hunt the Rype in the high plateaus above Askland in the Fjords. She would cook it for us and it was always

amazing. The sauce is velvety, buttery, delicious comfort food and delightful with chicken or any game

bird.

INTRODUCTION

This recipe is for Hen or Chicken in the Good Sauce (Norwegian: høne o kylling i god saus). It was originally

known as Rype i Gjetost (Snow Grouse in Goat Cheese). A Norwegian Snow Grouse is called a Rype. It is

very similar to Ptarmigan, or Ruffed Grouse. Grouse is a small game bird that is a favorite of hunters in

the highlands and northern climates. It is a bit gamey because it eats pine nuts, and sometimes the meat

is tough. The word gjetost, also spelled geitost, consists of "geit" and "ost", Norwegian for "goat" and

"cheese", although it is not technically a cheese. Poaching the meat in this sauce tenderizes it and the

Gjetost sweetens its gamey taste.

The Good Sauce is based on a simple white sauce, also known as a Béchamel sauce. Béchamel goes with

vegetables (it is great over Cauliflower), and can turn a casserole into a creamy dish, or can be ladled over

seafood or sliced chicken. Many may use it "as is", make it into a Gjetost sauce, or spice it up with mustard,

dill, or curry. It keeps for a couple days in the refrigerator and freezes well.



HISTORY

The Ruffed grouse (Bonasa umbellus) is a medium-sized grouse residing in forests from the Appalachian

Mountains across Canada to Alaska. Snow Grouse inhabit temperate and subarctic regions throughout

the Northern Hemisphere, from pine forests to moorland and mountainside. Grouse are non-migratory.

It is the only species in the genus Bonasa. When startled, it can burst

into flight reaching speeds of more than 55 miles per hour within a few

feet. The ruffed grouse is sometimes incorrectly referred to as a

"partridge", an unrelated phasianid, and occasionally confused with

the grey partridge, a bird of open areas rather than woodlands. The

ruffed grouse is the state bird of Pennsylvania, United States.

I’m not really a hunter, but I think we all must take some responsibility

for our existence, and fully understand what we consume, including

meat. Many years ago, in 1976, I was “hunting” (actually just hiking

through the deep woods, with a 410 shotgun) in Vermont during

winter after about 4 inches of fresh snow had fallen and I encountered

a ruffed grouse. It burst into flight about 10 yards away, about 15 feet

up, from a tree branch, traveling directly away from me. The quiet

woods burst into noise as it took flight. Completely startled, I swung my 410 up and somehow hit it. I

field dressed it, took it home, and made a Grouse in the Good Sauce following the recipe. It was fantastic.

Gjetost (yay’ – dohst) is a cheese-like product made from whey, sweeter in taste than most cheeses (tastes

a bit like tangy brown sugar), caramel in color, and has a firm but creamy texture. Boiling down whey to

create a soft, brown spread (such as the Norwegian prim and Swedish messmör) has been common

practice in the Nordic countries since time immemorial. However, the creation of the modern, firm, fatty

brunost is commonly attributed to the milkmaid Anne Hov from Gudbrandsdalen. In the second part of

the 1800s Gudbrandsdalen, a rural part of Norway, economically suffered due to falling profits from grain

and butter sales. While working at the Valseter mountain farm near Gålå in 1863, Anne Hov (sometimes

named Anne Haav), came up with the idea of adding cream to the whey

when boiling, and to boil it down in an iron pot until the fluid content

was reduced to less than 80%, creating a firmer, fattier, more cheese-

like product. She originally called it Feitost ("Fat Cheese"). In 1933, at

age 87, Anne Hov received the King's Medal of Merit for her

contributions to Norwegian cuisine and economy.

Gjetost is sweet like butterscotch with a dense, rich texture. Gjetost is

formed into rind-less squares or cylinders, and tastes best when sliced

wafer thin and enjoyed open-faced on Norwegian flatbread and served

with fresh fruit. Often enjoyed as a breakfast cheese in Norway, Gjetost

also makes an excellent snack and a perfect dessert cheese. This

unique Norwegian brown cheese is also known as Brunost, which is simply Norwegian for Brown Cheese.

The Ski Queen variety is a blend of cow and goat's milk, whereas the Ekte Gjetost Cheese from Norway is

made from 100% goat's milk.

Gjetost is packed with energy and is extremely tolerant of temperature fluctuations. Because of these

benefits, Gjetost is a preferred snack for Norwegians skiers who pack it in their backpacks and snack on it

while on the trails. This is where the Ski Queen brand name derives, and may be one of the secrets to the



international success of Norwegian cross-country skiers. It is regarded as one of the country's most iconic

foodstuffs, considered an important part of Norwegian gastronomical and cultural identity and heritage.

Béchamel sauce, (/bɛʃəˈmɛl/ or /beɪʃəˈmɛl/; French: Béchamel), is made from a white roux (butter and

flour) and milk. Even though it first appeared in Italian cookbooks (constituting one of the simplest sauces

of the Italian cuisine), it is considered one of the five mother sauces of French cuisine. Béchamel was a

financier who held the honorary post of chief steward to King Louis

XIV. The sauce first appeared in some Italian cookbooks of the

Renaissance, but was introduced under its familiar name in Le Cuisinier

François, published in 1651 by François Pierre La Varenne (1615–

1678), chef de cuisine to Nicolas Chalon du Blé, marquis d'Uxelles. The

foundation of French cuisine, the Cuisinier François ran through some

thirty editions in seventy-five years. The sauce was originally made for

veal velouté with a large amount of cream added. Saulnier's Répertoire

presents one recipe as: "White roux moistened with milk, salt, onion

stuck with clove, cook for 20 minutes.”

Béchamel sauce is the base for many other classic sauces. A few examples are provided below.

(1) Mornay sauce is a Béchamel with cheese added. Gruyere cheese is typically used. Gjetost is used in

this recipe.

(2) Nantua sauce is a Béchamel with shrimp butter and cream added, typically served with crayfish.

(3) Soubise sauce is a Béchamel with finely diced onions (that have been sweated in butter) added.

(4) Crème sauce is a Béchamel made with heavy cream instead of milk.

(5) Cheddar sauce is a Béchamel with cheddar cheese, dry mustard, Worcestershire sauce added.

(6) Curry sauce is a Béchamel with curry powder added to the flour. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon curry powder

with the flour. Serve with chicken, lamb and shrimp.

(7) Mustard sauce is a Béchamel with dry mustard (typically Dijon) mixed with the flour. Decrease

butter to 1 tablespoon and flour to 1 tablespoon. After boiling and stirring sauce 1 minute, stir in 3

tablespoons Dijon mustard and serve, with beef, veal, ham and vegetables.

(8) Welsh rabbit is based on a Béchamel. Stir in 1/4 teaspoon ground mustard with the flour. After

boiling and stirring sauce 1 minute, stir in 1/2 cup shredded Cheddar cheese (2 ounces) until

melted and serve with eggs and vegetables or over toast.

(9) Recette de Gratin de poisson is based on a Béchamel. Make a Mornay sauce with recette. Stir in 1

teaspoon chopped fresh or 1/2 teaspoon dried dill weed and a dash of ground nutmeg with the

flour and serve with fish.

(10) The list continues with countless variations. Search for Béchamel and your favorite additive

(cheese, meat, spice, etc.) and you are likely to find a fabulous recipe.

Key Tools

• Skillet / cast iron frying pan (about 12-inch, 30cm, diameter)

• Two skillets make the recipe go faster.

Recipe

• Serves: 4 (about two cutlets each).

• Costs: About $3/serving. An amazing value for high cuisine.

• Time: 20 minutes for preparation, 20 minutes for cooking.



INGREDIENTS

MEAT

� 1.5 lbs. (about .7 kg) boneless skinless chicken, about 6 breasts. One may substitute pheasant,

grouse, etc. More can be used, but it won’t fit into the single skillet/fry pan, so it will have to be

done in batches unless you have two skillets.

� 2 Tbsp. (30 mL) olive oil for browning the meat. I prefer butter but one must be careful not to burn

the butter and still cook the chicken all the way through.

� OPTIONAL: Lingonberry preserves for garnish. This is great on chicken without the sauce too.

� OPTIONAL: Mashed potatoes. I always enjoy mashed potatoes. Norwegian plates always seem to

be white on white, and this is consistent with that observation.

� OPTIONAL: Carrots. I always skip this.

� OPTIONAL: Peas. I prefer to add frozen peas on the last step of cooking the sauce.

SAUCE

� 1 Tbsp. (14 mL) salted butter.

� 1 Tbsp. (14 mL) all-purpose flour. I prefer King Arthur brand. In a Béchamel the ratio between the

butter and the flour are always kept at 1 to 1, and varying the milk adjusts the thickness of the

sauce.

� 1 cup (237 mL) whole milk (or chicken broth). Or substitute 1 cup (237 mL) heavy cream for a

creamer sauce. Or substitute or 1 cup (237 mL) sour cream to offset the sweetness of cheese or

other spices.

� 1 tsp. (mL) shredded brown goat cheese (Gjetost). People who love this stuff put as much as ¼ cup

in. I find this a little too sweet. Some recipes add vinegar to offset the sweetness of the cheese.

Others use sour cream (see ingredient above).

� Dash Mediterranean Sea salt.

� Dash freshly ground pepper. Some people prefer white pepper to maintain the white-on-white look

of the dish.

� OPTIONAL: Pinch freshly ground nutmeg. It is customary to add a small pinch of nutmeg in Italy. It

adds depth to the flavor while not adding a nutmeg taste.

� NOTE: A Béchamel is often prepared by first making the roux, and then simmering milk with spices

(1/4 of an onion, studded with one whole clove, and a bay leaf). Then the milk is strained (spices

removed) and returned to the pot. And then small amounts of roux are vigorously whisked into the

simmering milk until it becomes the sauce. This recipe is a little different.

� NOTE: One may adjust the roux to milk ratio to change from a thick to thin sauce. One tablespoon

each of butter and flour per cup of milk makes a thin, easily pourable sauce. Two tablespoons of each

makes a medium thick sauce. Three tablespoons of each makes an extra thick sauce, such as used to

fill croquettes or as a soufflé base.

� NOTE: For a larger portion of sauce, proportionately increase the butter, flour, and milk. For example,

2 Tbsp. butter and flour each, and 2 cups milk, yields double the sauce.



STEPS

OVERVIEW

Braise the meat (easy). Make the roux (quick). Make a sauce (quick). Combine, cook and serve (20 min.).

Béchamel is traditionally made by melting a quantity of butter, and adding an equal part of flour to make

a roux, which is cooked under gentle heat while stirring with a whisk. As it is a white sauce, care must be

taken not to brown the roux. Then heated milk is gradually whisked in, and the sauce is cooked until

thickened and smooth. The proportion of roux and milk determines the thickness of the sauce, typically

one to three tablespoons each of flour and butter per cup of milk.

BRAISE THE MEAT (20 min.)

1. Place skillet (frying pan) on the stove.

a. Heat the pan with high heat for a few minutes, but not until it is overheated (smoking).

b. Reduce heat to LOW setting and let the pan cool a bit.

c. Add butter, chicken fat, or olive oil and spread around.

d. QUICK FACT: a “hot-pan, cold-oil” reduces sticking and cooks more evenly.

e. Be careful not to overheat or burn the butter.

2. Prepare the meat while the pan cools.

a. Remove meat (chicken) from packaging.

b. Place chicken in a bowl with salt water (1 tbsp. salt).

c. Remove from the bowl and rinse with tap water.

d. Tenderize chicken with a mallet. Tenderizing always seems to make the chicken susceptible

to added flavoring, and is cooks more quickly and evenly.

3. Place the meat (chicken) in the fry pan with LOW heat.



4. Be patient, use low heat, and cook the chicken through.

5. Cook one side until browned (about 10 minutes), then using a fork or tongs, turn over and cook the

other side until browned. Repeat until browned all around. The browning of the chicken adds a

delightful hint to the sauce. Don’t rush this step and don’t put the heat on too high or the chicken

will not cook through, or you may not get the nicely caramelized surface.

6. The chicken should become browned in spots.

7. OPTIONAL: If you wish to use chicken broth for your sauce (instead of milk or cream), you may create

it yourself. Add boiling water to the pan from time to time, but no more than 1/3 pint (158 mL) in

total. Then skim and discard the fat from the pan juices. If you wish, you may measure out the pan

fat and substitute it for the butter. Measure the remaining liquid (chicken juices, melted butter, and

a little bit of chicken fat) and either reduce to 1 cup by boiling it rapidly or add enough water to make

up 1 cup of chicken broth. Remove the broth from the pan and set aside. Be careful not to include

too much chicken fat because it can make the sauce greasy, and one might miss the wonderful butter-

flour flavor combination. I do not use broth in this recipe, I use milk.

8. Remove the meat from the heat and set aside.



ROUX (when done right, it is very quick, about 2 min.)

9. Clean and dry the skillet. Remove all moisture and butter from skillet.

10. Add butter to the now clean and empty fry pan. Heat until the butter is melted.

11. Stir in the salt, pepper and nutmeg (if desired).

12. While vigorously whisking near the center of the pan, add small amounts of dry flour. Moisture

content has a large impact on roux. The whisking action of the warmed butter helps to coat the flour

particles. It requires some effort to avoid dry clumping. The desired consistency at this stage is a soft

paste (roux).

13. Flour is slowly added while whisking. Notice the bubbles at the edge of the pan? This pan may be a

wee hot.

14. Simmer this roux for a moment over low heat, stirring constantly until the mixture is thick and smooth.

The proper cooking of the flour in this step is where all the “toast and butter” flavor comes from. The

roux itself may take a slightly darker color, this is fine, just so long as the butter does not burn. Watch

the butter at the edges of the pan. If it starts to bubble excessively or darken, it is too hot. Remove

the pan from the heat while continuing to stir.



15. NOTE: Ms. Andersen does not make a roux when she makes this recipe. Instead she uses a gravy

mixer. A gravy mixer is a handy little thing. It helps eliminate lumps in gravy by coating the flour

particles before cooking. She starts with four and milk blended with the gravy mixer, and pours it into

a buttered pan with low heat. Then she adds sour cream and flour in “chef’s proportions” as she

cooks the sauce. I deviated from her recipe because I prefer to use the classic French methods (roux),

which is more reproducible for me, and I find the results taste the same.

16. This is a Mirro Aluminum Shaker Rochow Swirl Mixer.

17. Lesson learned. This roux looks strange because I tried a combination of Ms. Andersen’s traditional

method (gravy mixer) and the classic French method (roux). I combined the flour with water in the

gravy mixer, and then stirred it into the butter. Unfortunately, the water made the flour expand when

heated. It still worked out because the lumps are actually globs of paste (not dry lumps) but was a lot

of work to blend with the milk. Notice the butter in the picture is still clear, not burned.



SAUCE (this all happens quickly, about 5 min.)

18. NOTE: Béchamel is often prepared with milk simmered in a separate pot, with spices added (1/4 of an

onion, studded with one whole clove, and a bay leaf). Then the milk is strained (spices removed) and

returned to the pot. Small amounts of roux are carefully whisked into the simmering milk until it

becomes the sauce. For this recipe I omit the spices, use one pan, whisk the milk into the roux, and it

seems to work well.

19. NOTE: When using this method, you may wish to warm the milk before mixing (a microwave will do),

which will help the milk blend with the roux. Be patient as the roux dissolves into the milk, creating

the sauce.

20. Vigorously whisk at a corner of the pan while adding small amounts of milk. The whisking action and

heat should make the roux paste blend with the warmed milk. It requires some effort to make the

roux and milk combine.

21. Milk is slowly added to a corner of the pan while whisking. Notice the thin caramel colored paste

around the edge of the pan? This is the roux before the milk is added.

COMBINE (20 min.)

22. Add the braised meat to the sauce.

23. The sauce should start to thicken. Notice the lighter color? The darker roux color was diluted with

milk.



24. Simmer on low heat for 10 to 20 minutes to finish cooking and tenderize the meat. Be careful not to

let the sauce burn, or turn brown, or it will result in a bitter flavor. If you used cream, do not let the

mixture boil.

25. Add cheese to the pan. Beat until the cheese dissolves and the sauce is absolutely smooth. Cheese is

added at the latest point to keep it from over cooking.

26. Taste for seasoning.

27. OPTIONAL: One may add the uncooked vegetables at this time to make a one pot dish.

28. The sauce and chicken are ready. You may notice I used coarsely ground fresh black pepper in the

sauce. It is easy to understand why people use white pepper.

SERVE

29. OPTIONAL: Plate mashed potatoes first.

30. OPTIONAL: Plate one slice of toast first.

31. OPTIONAL: Plate rice first.

32. Spoon chicken and sauce onto the plate.

33. Add vegetables on the side if desired.

34. OPTIONAL: Garnish with ½ tsp. Lingonberry jam on top of the chicken cutlet.

35. Enjoy.

Chicken in the Good Sauce plated with Yukon Gold mashed potatoes and Felix Brand Lingonberry

Preserves.



RESULTS

A lovely combination of humble origins, upland simplicity, and haute French cuisine. This simple, honest,

and warming dish is delicious and soothing.

DRINKS

I don’t like aquavit (a popular Norwegian alcohol), so I’ll have to go with a glass of white wine for this one.

AMBIANCE

Naturally I think of Wagner when doing Norwegian cooking. Der Ring des Nibelungen (The Ring of the

Nibelung), WWV 86, is a cycle of four German-language epic music dramas composed by Richard Wagner.

The works are based loosely on characters from the Norse sagas and the Nibelungenlied. The composer

termed the cycle a "Bühnenfestspiel" (stage festival play), structured in three days preceded by a

Vorabend ("preliminary evening"). It is often referred to as the Ring Cycle, Wagner's Ring, or simply The

Ring. Wagner wrote the libretto and music over the course of about twenty-six years, from 1848 to 1874.

The four parts that constitute the Ring cycle are, in sequence:

1. Das Rheingold (The Rhinegold)

2. Die Walküre (The Valkyrie) Classic! Once you hear it, you will always see it.

3. Siegfried

4. Götterdämmerung (Twilight of the Gods)

Although individual works of the sequence have been occasionally performed separately, Wagner

intended them to be performed in series. The first performance as a cycle opened the first Bayreuth

Festival in 1876, beginning with Das Rheingold on 13 August and ending with Götterdämmerung on

17 August. Five days!

Nutritional Information

• Serving size: 2 cutlets

• Calories: 560

• Sodium: 370mg

• Protein: 44g

• Total Fat: 40g

• Fiber: 1g



ABOUT Twombly Family Recipes

These recipes were developed organically from the hearths of Twombly homes throughout America; from

the shores of California; mountains of Colorado; to the halls of Florham, Vineland, and New York; all the

way East toward our little family homestead in Connecticut. With the

use of wholesome easy to find ingredients, supermarket available, we

present a plethora of internationally inspired dishes that celebrate the

diversity of our family and draw upon our many travel experiences

(Photo: My wife Serena in Paris).

We each do our part to contribute to the dish. As we coordinate

together, priceless memories are made. Anyone willing to replicate

these recipes in their own home kitchens will discover the spirit and

love of family working together to create more than just food - a

Twombly family recipe sustains the heart as well as the stomach.

Ben Twombly, master chemist and self-taught chef, crafted fine-tuned

recipes with measurements provided in English and European (SI)

units; approximate ingredient prices and cost per servings where available; and hints and tips. But one

cannot live by the practical aspects alone. This guru of artful living generously offers guidance for culinary

adventures, complete with historical references, movie, and song recommendations to accompany the

joyful shared process of cooking, dining, and hanging out at home with loved ones.

chicken in the good sauce - wordpress.com · 11/16/2016 · up, from a tree branch, traveling...

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