Cheesemaking Practice

Cheesemaking Practice

111...

R. SCOTT

Third edition

R.K. ROBINSON R.A. WILBEY

The University of Reading Reading, UK

" SPRINGER SCIENCE+BUSINESS MEDIA, LLC

© 1998 Springer Science+Business Media New York Originally published by Kluwer Academic / Plenum Publishers in 1998 Softcover reprint of the hardcover 3rd edition 1998

AII rights reserved.

No part of this work may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, microfilming, record ing, or otherwise, without written permission from the Publisher, with the exception of any material supplied specifically for the purpose of being entered and executed on a computer system, for exclusive use by the purchaser ofthe work.

Editorial Resources: Jon Walmsley Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 98-70420

ISBN 978-1-4613-7667-5 ISBN 978-1-4615-5819-4 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-1-4615-5819-4

1 234 5

Contents

Preface xv

Acknowledgements xvii

1 A brief history of cheese 1References 8

2 Importance of cheese as a food 92.1 Nutritional value of cheese 10

2.1.1 Milk fat 122.1.2 Protein 132.1.3 Lactose 142.1.4 Minerals and vitamins 152.1.5 Miscellaneous considerations 15

References 17

3 Cheese varieties 193.1 Definition of cheese 193.2 International agreements 193.3 Classification of cheese 21References 28

4 Introduction to cheesemaking 304.1 Principles of cheesemaking 304.2 Summary of cheesemaking procedures 31

4.2.1 Ingredients for cheesemaking and their handling 324.3 Good manufacturing practice 35References 36

5 Milk as a raw material for cheesemaking 375.1 Variations in the composition of milks 385.2 Milk fats 415.3 Minor lipids 475.4 Proteins in milk 48

5.4.1 Caseins 485.4.2 Whey proteins 50

5.5 Minerals (salts) in milk 51

vi CONTENTS

5.6 Enzymes in milk5.7 Vitamins in milk5.8 Antibiotics in milk5.9 Taints in milk5.10 Extraneous substances in milk5.1I Cheese from dried milk powders5.12 Cheese from recombined milksReferences

5255576161636364

6 Bacteriology in relation to cheesemaking6.1 The bacterial cell6.2 Bacteriology of raw cheese milks6.3 Types of microbial contamination6.4 Bacteriological testing of milk6.5 Principles of HACCP6.6 Removal of bacteria from cheese milkReferences

7 Tests for acidity and chemical analysis in process control7.1 Acidity versus pH

7.1.1 Indicator dyes7.1.2 Titratable acidity7.1.3 Hot Iron Test7.1.4 pH measurement7.1.5 Rate of acid or pH change7.1.6 Acidities during processing

7.2 Acidity in process control7.3 Chemical analysis

7.3.1 Casein7.3.2 Salts7.3.3 Moisture7.3.4 Miscellaneous substances7.3.5 Instrumental and other analytical methods

References

8 Additives used in cheese milks8.1 Calcium balance8.2 Inhibitory salts8.3 Acidulants8.4 Cheese colours8.5 Legal usage of additivesReferences

6767686974777980

81818182838586868891919494949596

9898

100101102103105

CONTENTS vti

9 Starter cultures 1069.1 Starter bacteria 1069.2 Coded starter cultures 1099.3 Starter propagation 1129.4 Starter control 1159.5 Non-lactic starters 1169.6 Bacteriophage 118References 119

10 Preparation of cheese milks 12210.1 Milk storage 12210.2 Standardization of cheese milks 124

10.2.1 Formulae for standardization and cheese yields 12410.2.2 Methods employed for the standardization of milks 127

10.3 Homogenization 13110.4 Centrifugal clarification 13210.5 Hydrogen peroxide/catalase method 13310.6 Heat treatment of cheese milks 135

10.6.1 Equipment for heat treatment of cheese milks 143References 144

11 Coagulants and precipitants 14611.1 Salt-precipitated curds 14611.2 Acid-precipitated curds 14611.3 Enzyme coagulants 148

11.3.1 Animal rennets 14911.3.2 Pepsin rennets 15411.3.3 Microbial rennets 15411.3.4 Recombinant chymosin 15711.3.5 Vegetable rennets 157

11.4 Observations on the use of some rennets 15811.5 Factors influencing coagulation 15911.6 Direct acidification 161References 163

12 Cheesemaking operations 16512.1 Basic cheesemaking operations 16512.2 Standardization of cheese milks 16512.3 Homogenization of cheese milks 16612.4 Heat treatment of cheese milks 16612.5 Starter addition 16712.6 Colour and additives 16812.7 Rennet addition 16912.8 Coagulation 169

Vlll CONTENTS

12.9 Cutting the coagulum12.10 Stirring and scalding12.11 Washed curd cheese12.12 Salting of cheese

12.12.1 Methods of salting12.13 Cheese pressing12.14 Cheese rind coating, bandaging and wrappingReferences

171173176177178180183191

13 Cheese manufacture13.1 Varietal differences13.2 Grating cheese13.3 Textured cheese

13.3.1 Cheddar cheese13.3.2 Cheshire cheese13.3.3 Dunlop cheese13.3.4 Derby cheese13.3.5 Leicester cheese13.3.6 Gloucester cheese13.3.7 Caerphilly cheese13.3.8 Lancashire cheese

13.4 Untextured cheese13.5 Cheese with eyeholes13.6 Semi-hard cheese with few or no eyeholes

(including washed curd cheese)13.7 Blue-veined cheese13.8 Pasta Filata cheese (kneaded curds)13.9 Soft cheese13.10 White brined cheese13.11 Lactic, Cottage and similar cheese13.12 Cheese made in mountainous areas or by nomadic

tribesmenReferences

14 Mechanization of cheesemaking14.1 Electrodialysis and ultrafiltration equipment14.2 Homogenizers14.3 Starter preparation equipment14.4 Milk ripening tanks14.5 Soft cheese making equipment14.6 Curd-making vats (textured cheese)14.7 Curd-making vats (untextured cheese)14.8 Whey--curd separation equipment14.9 Cheese texturing and draining equipment

193193196197197204206206206207207207208209

211215217221222224

228229

232233237239239240241246249251

CONTENTS ~

14.10 Cheese hooping or moulding machines 25814.11 Cheese presses 26214.12 Cheese brining equipment 26614.13 Cheese conveying and turning equipment 26814.14 Kneading equipment for Pasta Filata cheese 26814.15 Miscellaneous equipment 26814.16 Cheese packaging equipment 269References 270

15 Cheese maturation 27115.1 Cheese curd 27115.2 Lactose and related metabolites 27315.3 Protein metabolism 27415.4 Lipids 27715.5 Curd moisture 27715.6 Temperatures during maturation 27815.7 Acidity of the curds 27915.8 Inhibitory substances and oxygen 28015.9 Aroma in cheese 28115.10 Flavour in cheese 28215.11 Additional flavours and aromas 28315.12 The use of wood smoke 28415.13 Liqueurs, wines and beers 28415.14 Cheese bases 28515.15 Cheese slurries 28515.16 Accelerated maturation of cheese 286References 287

16 Cheese faults and cheese grading 28816.1 Faults in hard-pressed cheeses 28816.2 Faults in blue-veined cheese 29016.3 Faults in surface mould-ripened cheese 29116.4 Faults in smear-ripened cheese 29216.5 Aspects of quality 292

16.5.1 Chemical composition of cheese 29216.5.2 Microbiological standards 29416.5.3 Cheese grading 29616.5.4 Grading schemes 30116.5.5 Grading practice 305

References 308

17 Membrane fIltration of milk and whey 30917.1 Membranes 309

17.1.1 Membranes for cheese milk and whey processing 311

x CONTENTS

17.2 Applications of membrane processing17.3 Application of UF to cheesemakingReferences

313313318

18 Cheese whey and its uses18.1 Utilization and disposal of whey18.2 Quality of whey18.3 Whey cheese18.4 Whey treatments18.5 Waste disposalReferences

19 Selected cheese recipesList of the cheese recipes

1. Appenzeller2. Aragackij Syr3. Asiago

Asiago da Allievo4. Awshari

Typical method of manufacture(mainly Spring and early Summer)Variable characteristics of the Awshari cheese

5. Baker's cheese curd6. Beaufort7. Beli Sir u Kriskama8. Bjalo (Belo salam ureno sirene)9. Blue Vinney (Dorset Blue)

10. Bresse Bleu11. Brie12. Brinza13. Bukovina14. Burduf15. Butterkase16. Caerphilly17. Caledonian18. Cambridge19. Camembert

Farmhouse manufactureFactory manufactureUse of UF concentrated milk for Camembert cheese

20. Cantal21. Carrick22. Cascaval Dobrogen23. Cheese base for the addition of solid flavourings

320320321322324325325

327327329330331331332

332333333334335336337338339340341341342343344345345346347348349350351351

CONTENTS

24. CheddarMechanization of Cheddar cheese making

25. Cheshire1. Summer/winter Cheshire2. Spring Cheshire (modifications)3. Autumn Cheshire (modifications)4. Block cheese

26. ColwichMethod 1 (Farmhouse)Method 2 (Factory)

27. Cotswold28. Cottage cheese

Method 1: acid-type cheeseMethod 2: rennet-assisted curd from skim milk.Quick set methodCream dressing for Cottage cheeseMarketingDefects

29. CoulommiersSmall-scale FarmhouseFactory methodMethod 1Modification of Method 1Coulommiers from UF milk

30. Cream cheese31. Danablu32. Derbyshire33. Domiati34. Double cream cheese35. Double Gloucester36. Dunlop37. Edam38. Edelpilzkase39. Emmental

Block (rindless) Emmental40. Estepe41. Feta42. Feta type cheese from UF concentrated milk43. Fromage Frais

1. Triple Cream Suisse2. Demi-Sel3. Neuf Chatel

44. Gamelost45. Gorgonzola

Xl

352354355355356356357357357358358359359

360360360361361361363363364364364365367368369370371372374375377378378380380381381381382383

xu CONTENTS

46. Gouda 38447. Gruyere 38648. Halloumi 38749. Herregaardsost 38850. Herve 38951. Italico 39052. Kashkaval (Kaschkawal) 39053. Kefalotyri 39254. Kesong Puti 39355. Kingston 39356. Lactic curd cheese 39457. Lancashire 39458. Leicester(shire) 39659. Limburger 39760. Liplovska Bryndza 398

Stage 1 - manufacture of Hrudka cheese (Hrudkovy Syr) 399Stage 2 - manufacture of Bryndza cheese 399

61. Livarot 40062. Manchego 40063. Mascarpone 40264. Monterey 40265. Mozzarella 40366. Parenica 40467. Parmesan 40568. Peakland 40669. Pecorino Romano 40770. Pelardon 40971. Petit Suisse 40972. Pont l'Eveque 41073. Provolone 41174. Quark 413

1. Manual method for skim milk curds 4132. Mechanical concentration method 4143. Use of ultrafiltration of skim milk to produce Quark 415Flavoured Quark 415Creamed Quark 415

75. Reading Yellow 41576. Ricotta 416

Ricotta cheese (whole milk) 417Ricottone (whey cheese) 417

77. Roquefort 41878. Saint-Maure de Touraine 41979. St. Paulin 42080. Sage Derby (or Derbyshire) 421

CONTENTS

81. Samsoe82. Sbrinz83. Single Gloucester84. Steppenkase85. Stilton

Farmhouse methodFactory methodFactory and Farmhouse methods of maturation

86. Surti87. Svecia88. Telemea89. Tilsiter90. Trappist91. Vacherin92. White pickled cheese93. Wensleydale94. Whey curd cheese95. Whiteknights96. Yorkshire cheese curds

Index

xiii

421422423424425425427427428428429430432433433434436436437

439

Preface to the third edition

When the late Reg Scott wrote the first edition of this book in 1981, hisintention was 'to produce a script generally interesting to those readersrequiring more information on cheese'. It was not conceived as a bookthat covered the most recent developments with respect to lipid or proteinchemistry, for example, but rather it was hoped that the text would revealcheesemaking as a fascinating, and yet technically demanding, branch ofdairy science. The fact that the author had some 50 years' experience ofcheesemaking gave the book a very special character, in that the 'art' of thetraditional cheesemaker emerged as a system that, in reality, had a strongscientific basis.

Today, cheesemaking remains a blend of 'art and science' for, while muchcheese is made in computer-controlled factories relying on strict standard­ization to handle the large volumes of milk involved, the production of topquality cheese still relies on the innate skill of the cheesemaker. It wasconsidered appropriate, therefore, that this revised edition of CheesemakingPractice should include, at one end of the spectrum, details of the latesttechnology for curd handling and, at the other, simple recipes for theproduction of farmhouse cheeses. Obviously a student of dairy science willneed to consult other texts in order to complete his/her knowledge of thecheesemaking process, but if this revised edition stimulates its readers todelve more deeply, then the task of updating the original manuscript willhave been worthwhile.

Richard K. Robinson and R. Andrew WilbeyThe University of Reading

Acknowledgements

The authors gratefully acknowledge the benefit that they have derived fromthe wealth of material accumulated over many years by the original author,but as many of the illustrations are new, a special note of appreciation mustbe extended to the following organizations:

APV Nordic Cheese ASMultivac UK LtdTetra Tebel BVVantage HouseWestfalia Separator LtdWincanton Engineering LtdWrapid Packaging Systems Ltd

The authors are also grateful to Drs David Jukes, Alistair Grandison andMike Lewis of The University of Reading for their specialized advice; and toIan Maclean and his team for their invaluable assistance in the preparationof photographs.