CheeseFOR

DUMmIES‰

by culture: the word on cheese, Laurel Miller, Thalassa Skinner

Foreword by Chef Ming TsaiChef/owner of Blue Ginger and host of Simply Ming

CheeseFOR

DUMmIES‰

Cheese For Dummies®

Published by John Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd. 6045 Freemont Blvd. Mississauga, ON L5R 4J3 www.wiley.com

Copyright © 2012 by John Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd.All rights reserved. No part of this book, including interior design, cover design, and icons, may be repro-duced or transmitted in any form, by any means (electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise) with-out the prior written permission of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd., 6045 Freemont Blvd., Mississauga, ON L5R 4J3, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. For authorization to photo-copy items for corporate, personal, or educational use, please contact in writing The Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency (Access Copyright). For more information, visit www.accesscopyright.ca or call toll free, 1-800-893-5777.Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, Dummies.com, Making Everything Easier, and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. The Sustainable Kitchen is a registered trademark of Laurel Miller. All other trademarks are the property of their respec-tive owners. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.

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About the AuthorsLaurel Miller is a Western U.S.-based food and travel writer, contributing editor at culture: the word on cheese, and culinary educator and owner of The Sustainable Kitchen. She grew up on a small California ranch raising dairy goats and a menagerie of other animals, which is what inspired her to teach people about sustainable agriculture and seasonal eating. When not writing or working part-time in a cheese shop, Laurel can be found indulging her street food obsession in the back alleys of the world. She is lactose intolerant.

Thalassa (Lassa) Skinner works as a cheesemonger in Napa, California, where she spends much of her time pairing local wines and beers with cheeses and infusing everyone she meets with the glories of cheese. She is a founder/owner of culture: the word on cheese and teaches classes at the San Francisco Cheese School and other venues throughout the Napa Valley and beyond. A dual citizen of both the United States and Australia, Lassa also has a home in South Australia’s Barossa Valley and may be the only person on earth who has managed, promoted, and helped grow farmers’ markets on two continents. Her dog Samantha (who is, in fact, an Aussie) has a distinctly cheese-centric palate and, though partial to camembert, has learned to accept that even she will have to wait until kidding season is complete before she can savor local goat milk cheeses again.

culture: the word on cheese, the first consumer magazine about cheese, and its website, www.culturecheesemag.com, was founded in 2008. Cheese embodies comfort yet oozes mystery. It conjures a better place and time, green swaths, happy cows, and ancient know-how. New cheesemakers appear each year. Shoppers seek wider selections of cheeses from specialty stores to supermarkets. The dizzying range of offerings comes from cow, goat, sheep, buffalo, or rarer animals’ milks, aged and fresh. Yet while we love it, we barely know it. That’s why culture magazine serves up the notable and obscure, with pairings and recipes, gorgeous photography, and introduc-tions to dedicated farmers, makers, and mongers around the world. It’s why culture is the word on cheese!

Authors’ AcknowledgmentsThe authors wish to thank the following people, without whom this book would not have been possible:

To Tracy Barr, editor extraordinaire, for turning this into something we can be proud of, as well as for your patience, good humor, and talking us off the ledge more than once. To everyone at culture magazine for supporting this project (even when dubious) and helping us see it through to the very end: Kate Arding, Stephanie Skinner, Elaine Khosrova, Eilis Maynard, and Will Fertman. A special shout-out to a group of women who went the extra mile: Michele Buster, Cecile Delannes, Ursula Heinzelmann, Sheri LaVigne, Tami Parr, and Daphne Zepos. Thank you for putting up with us and our hundreds of e-mails! And an extra special thanks to Kate Arding, who willingly shared her consider-able expertise and feedback when we most needed her, and provided the photography.

At Wiley: Anam Ahmed, Erika Zupko, and Lindsay Humphreys. And Robert Hickey—without whom this book would never have happened.

And to everyone else who provided expert advice, translation, support, con-tacts, recipes, or book contributions: Martin and Sarah Aspinwall, Barbara Backus, Joshua Bernstein, Josepha Bertolini, Giana Ciancio, Kathleen Cotter, Olivier Charbonneau, Bryan Dayton, Laure Dobouloz, Gordon Edgar, Jody Farnham, Will Fertman, Janet Fletcher, Camilla Ferenczi, Natalie Fryar, Jennifer Giambroni, Bryce Gilmore, Lionel Giraud, Malcolm Griffiths, Laurie Gutteridge, Ryan Hardy, Caroline Hostettler, Konrad Huesser, Ricardo Huijon, Christine Hyatt, Steve Jenkins, Mary Karlin, Paul Kinstedt, Betty Kloster, Jen Kruch, Andy Lax, Leah Mayor, Eilis Maynard, Max McCalman, Rebekah McCaul, Neville McNaughton, Drew Neiman, Patricia Michelson, Hilary Miller, Dr. Robert M. Miller, Lora Lea Misterly, Jeanne Rodier, Mark Roeland, Rebecca Sherman-Orozco, Fons Smits, Adam Spannaus, Cathy Strange, Bobby and Danette Stuckey, Will Studd, Ellen Sutton, Suzanne Swan, Ming Tsai, Juliana Uruburu, Bart van Kessel, Nancy Vineyard, Laura Werlin, Sarah Zaborowski, and Red Herring Design.

Laurel Miller wishes to thank: My family, for believing in my writing (P.S. Mom, the book is finished!); culture magazine for bringing me aboard this project; Sheri LaVigne of The Calf & Kid, for her mentorship, knowledge, and time. Grant Martin for tolerating my low output during the completion of this book; Charles Thoeming for his always sage advice; Juliana Uruburu, who told me about culture from the very beginning; and Sean, for everything else.

Lassa Skinner wishes to thank: My cheesemongering best man, Ricardo Huijon; my culture-d partners, who make everything happen; Michael Blum, for making that crucial decision that led to the book’s contract; Tony Bogar, whose support and sage words helped at crucial times; my ever-eager and forward-driving family; John Skovgaard, for listening and providing calm amidst the storm; Ellen Sutton, who had beer, wine, and grilled lamb ready when most necessary; and my wise, wonderful cheese industry mates who always listen, lend hands, and are there when needed most.

Publisher’s AcknowledgmentsWe’re proud of this book; please send us your comments at http://dummies.custhelp.com. For other comments, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877-762-2974, out-side the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002.Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:

Acquisitions, Editorial, and Vertical Websites

Editors: Robert Hickey, Anam AhmedProject Editor: Tracy L. BarrProduction Editor: Lindsay HumphreysEditorial Assistant: Kathy DeadyTechnical Editors: Kate Arding, Daphne ZeposRecipe Tester: Emily NolanNutrition Analyst: Patricia SantelliCover photo: © iStock/ rolfbodmerCartoons: Rich Tennant

(www.the5thwave.com)

Composition Services

Project Coordinator: Kristie ReesLayout and Graphics:

Joyce Haughey, Sennett Vaughan Johnson, Corrie Niehaus, Lavonne Roberts

Proofreaders: Bryan Coyle, Susan Moritz, Lisa Stiers

Indexer: Rebecca R. PlunkettPhotos: Kate Arding,

culture: the word on cheese

John Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd.

Deborah Barton, Vice President and Director of OperationsJennifer Smith, Publisher, Professional & Trade DivisionAlison Maclean, Managing Editor, Professional & Trade Division

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies

Kathleen Nebenhaus, Vice President and Executive PublisherKristin Ferguson-Wagstaffe, Product Development DirectorEnsley Eikenburg, Associate Publisher, TravelKelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel

Publishing for Technology Dummies

Andy Cummings, Vice President and PublisherComposition Services

Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a GlanceForeword ....................................................................xxi

Introduction ................................................................ 1

Part I: Getting to Know Cheese ..................................... 7 Chapter 1: A Crash Course in Cheese ............................................................................. 9Chapter 2: Tracing Cheese from Farm to Table ........................................................... 17Chapter 3: A Hard Look at Soft Cheeses ....................................................................... 39Chapter 4: Grate Tastes: Hard Cheeses ........................................................................ 59

Part II: Choosing and Serving Cheese .......................... 73Chapter 5: Using the Senses to Taste and Learn about Cheese................................. 75Chapter 6: Purchasing Pointers ..................................................................................... 85Chapter 7: Serving and Storing Cheese ......................................................................... 95

Part III: Cheese Around the World ............................. 109Chapter 8: The Americas .............................................................................................. 111Chapter 9: The British Isles and Ireland ..................................................................... 135Chapter 10: France ......................................................................................................... 147Chapter 11: Italy ............................................................................................................. 165Chapter 12: Spain, Portugal, and Other Mediterranean Countries.......................... 179Chapter 13: The Rest of Europe ................................................................................... 197Chapter 14: Off-the-Map Cheesemaking ...................................................................... 213

Part IV: Eating, Drinking, and Cooking with Cheese ... 229Chapter 15: Making Cheese the Life of the Party ....................................................... 231Chapter 16: Having a Drink with Your Cheese ........................................................... 245Chapter 17: Cooking with Cheese, Pt. 1: Appetizers, Salads, and Sides ................. 263Chapter 18: Cooking with Cheese, Pt. 2: Main Dishes and Desserts ....................... 289Chapter 19: Making Cheese at Home ........................................................................... 317

Part V: The Part of Tens ........................................... 331Chapter 20: Ten of the World’s Most Bizarre Cheeses ............................................. 333Chapter 21: Ten of America’s Most Influential Artisanal Cheesemakers ................ 339Chapter 22: Ten Cheese Festivals You Shouldn’t Miss ............................................. 345Chapter 23: Ten Cheese Festivals You Shouldn’t Miss ............................................. 351

Appendix: Metric Conversion Guide ........................... 357

Index ...................................................................... 361

Recipes at a GlanceCondimentsButtermilk-Oat Crackers ............................................................................................... 241Caramelized Shallots in Port Wine .............................................................................. 244Cherry Preserves ........................................................................................................... 242Chile-Citrus Olives ......................................................................................................... 240

BeveragesBlueberry Cobbler ......................................................................................................... 262The SweetWater ............................................................................................................. 261The Widow’s Kiss ........................................................................................................... 260

AppetizersComté Wafers ................................................................................................................. 267Crispy Cheese Croquettes ............................................................................................ 268Gougères ......................................................................................................................... 270Queso Fundido con Pollo .............................................................................................. 269

Salads and SoupBistro Salad with Poached Egg and Parmigiano-Reggiano ....................................... 276Fennel, Tangerine, and Hazelnut Salad with Crottin ................................................. 278Nectarine, Prosciutto, and Arugula Salad with Crescenza Toasts .......................... 272Salad Greens with Roasted Pears, Cornbread Croutons,

and Camembert Dressing ........................................................................................... 274Sopa de Quinoa .............................................................................................................. 280

Side DishesGrilled Asparagus with Chèvre and Orange Zest ....................................................... 281Haricot Verts and Miniature Tomatoes with Bocconcini ......................................... 284Israeli Couscous with Preserved Lemon, Sugar Snap Peas, Feta, and Mint ........... 282Pan-Roasted Wild Mushrooms over Cheddar Polenta with Pumpkinseed Oil ...... 286Wood-Roasted New Potatoes with Délice du Jura and Black Truffle Oil ................ 285

Main DishesBlue Cheese and Potato Tartlets ................................................................................. 302Broiled Gruyère Sandwiches with Maple-Caramelized Apples ................................ 298Chicken Cacciatore with Ricotta Salata ...................................................................... 293Farmstead’s Cheesemonger Mac ’n’ Cheese .............................................................. 294Grilled Peaches with Mascarpone, Pistachios, and Raspberries ............................ 307Grilled Sausages with Grapes, Wilted Greens, and Pecorino Romano ................... 296New Classic Cheese Souffle .......................................................................................... 304Peppered Pear and Goat Cheese Scones .................................................................... 299Sheep Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with Fresh Peas, Spring Onions, and Bacon .............. 290Stinky Cheese Omelet with Herb Topping .................................................................. 300

DessertsAged Gouda and Walnut Biscotti ................................................................................. 308Dried Apricot-Goat Cheese Tart................................................................................... 312Ginger-Poached Pears with Roquefort-Honey Ice Cream ......................................... 314Rhubarb-Brown Sugar Cake with Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote

and Crème Fraiche ...................................................................................................... 310

CheeseChèvre ............................................................................................................................. 326Crème Fraiche ................................................................................................................ 325Mozzarella ....................................................................................................................... 328Ricotta ............................................................................................................................. 324

Table of ContentsForeword .....................................................................xxi

Introduction ................................................................. 1About This Book .............................................................................................. 1Conventions Used in This Book ..................................................................... 2What You’re Not to Read ................................................................................ 2Foolish Assumptions ....................................................................................... 2How This Book Is Organized .......................................................................... 3

Part I: Getting to Know Cheese ............................................................ 3Part II: Choosing and Serving Cheese .................................................. 4Part III: Cheese Around the World ....................................................... 4Part IV: Eating, Drinking, and Cooking with Cheese .......................... 4Part V: The Part of Tens ........................................................................ 4

Icons Used in This Book ................................................................................. 5Where to Go from Here ................................................................................... 5

Part I: Getting to Know Cheese ...................................... 7

Chapter 1: A Crash Course in Cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Accidents Happen: How Cheese Came to Be ............................................... 9

From oops!. . . ....................................................................................... 10. . . To ahhh! .......................................................................................... 10Hankering for a hunk of cheese: The cheese industry today ......... 10

Key Things to Know about Cheese .............................................................. 12It’s alive! ................................................................................................ 12Styled out .............................................................................................. 12It has its own language: Speaking cheese geek ................................ 13You can enjoy it in a variety of ways ................................................. 14

Cheese! To Your Health ................................................................................ 15Budget Travel: Exploring the World through Cheese ............................... 16

Chapter 2: Tracing Cheese from Farm to Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Got Milk — And What Kind? Understanding Cheese’s Key Ingredient ... 17

White gold: A quick look at milk’s composition .............................. 18Examining the three main milks used in cheesemaking ................. 19

Making Cheese ............................................................................................... 23Smart starter: Heating the milk and adding the starter culture .... 25Curd is the word: Letting the fluid milk coagulate .......................... 26

Placing the curds in forms and draining the whey .......................... 27Worth its salt: Applying or adding salt ............................................. 28Ripe for the picking ............................................................................. 29

Exploring Cheese Styles ................................................................................ 31Getting cultured: Bacteria and mold ................................................. 31Rinding your business ......................................................................... 32

Where in the World? ..................................................................................... 34Digging into the importance of terroir .............................................. 34Demystifying designations .................................................................. 35

Chapter 3: A Hard Look at Soft Cheeses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39Soften Up: Understanding the Soft Cheese Basics .................................... 40Getting Fresh .................................................................................................. 41

Whey to go! Fresh cheese from leftovers ......................................... 43Pasta filata: Stringy, stretchy, fresh cheeses.................................... 43

Surface-Ripened Soft Cheeses ...................................................................... 44Bloomy-rind soft cheeses: Fluffy, furry, velvety rinds .................... 45Washed-rind soft cheeses: An odiferous array ................................ 47Mold-ripened: Wrinkly soft cheeses .................................................. 49

A Semi-Softie at Heart .................................................................................... 50Pressed, brined, and dry-salted fresh semi-soft cheeses ............... 50I’m (not) melting! Fresh semi-soft cheeses that stay in shape ....... 51Semi-soft rindless cheeses full of buttery flavors ............................ 52Down to earth: Mushroomy, grassy-tasting semi-softs ................... 53Semi-soft washed rinds ....................................................................... 53

Feeling Blue .................................................................................................... 55Mellow blues ......................................................................................... 55Blues with attitude ............................................................................... 56High octane blues ................................................................................ 57

Chapter 4: Grate Tastes: Hard Cheeses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Hard to Beat: Understanding the Basics ..................................................... 59Going Topless: A Rundown of Rindless Hard Cheeses ............................. 61

It’s better buttery and mild ................................................................ 61Going mild for rindless cheeses ......................................................... 62

Looking at Natural-Rind Hard Cheeses ....................................................... 63Buttery cheeses with natural rinds ................................................... 63Earthy natural rind delights ............................................................... 64Natural-rind nutty cheeses ................................................................. 65Bursting with flavor: Sharp natural-rind cheeses ............................ 65

Washed-rind and Wonderful Cheeses ......................................................... 66Nice and nutty ...................................................................................... 67Slightly stinky cheeses ........................................................................ 68

Trying Out Coated-rind and Clothbound Hard Cheeses .......................... 68Coated-rind cheeses with a nutty flavor ........................................... 69Sharp to earthy coated-rind cheeses ................................................ 70Sweet, butterscotchy coated-rind cheeses ...................................... 71

xiv Cheese For Dummies

Part II: Choosing and Serving Cheese ........................... 73

Chapter 5: Using the Senses to Taste and Learn about Cheese . . . . . 75Discovering What You Like and Don’t Like ................................................ 76Evaluating the Characteristics of Cheese ................................................... 77

Using your common sense(s) ............................................................. 77Ten “technical” (if sometimes odd) terms used

to describe cheese ........................................................................... 78Finding the Cheese You Like, with or without

a Cheesemonger’s Help ............................................................................. 80Going local ............................................................................................ 80Browsing the cheese section at your grocery store........................ 81

Taking the Cheese Challenge ....................................................................... 81

Chapter 6: Purchasing Pointers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Where to Buy: Exploring Your Options ...................................................... 85

What’s in store ..................................................................................... 85Online offerings .................................................................................... 87To market, to market: Buying direct ................................................. 89

When to Buy: The Best Time to Buy Certain Cheeses .............................. 91What to Buy: Making Your Dairy Dollars Count ........................................ 93

Counter proposal: Having a dialogue with your cheesemonger.... 93Telling the difference between a cheese

that’s ripe and past its prime ......................................................... 94

Chapter 7: Serving and Storing Cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Cheesy Accessories: All about Knives and Boards ................................... 95

Knifestyles of the rich and famous .................................................... 96Chairman of the board ........................................................................ 97

Serving Basics ................................................................................................ 99Cutting to the chase ............................................................................ 99Serving it at the ideal temperature .................................................. 101Putting together a cheese plate ....................................................... 101Arranging your items: General principles....................................... 102

On the Road or in the Cupboard: Storing and Traveling with Cheese ............................................................................. 105

Putting your cheese to bed: Successful storage ............................ 105Tips for traveling with cheese .......................................................... 107

Part III: Cheese Around the World ............................. 109

Chapter 8: The Americas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111American Cheese, Please ............................................................................ 111

The West Coast .................................................................................. 113The Pacific Northwest ....................................................................... 115The Southwest and the Rockies ....................................................... 119

xv Table of Contents

Cheese For Dummies xviThe Midwest ....................................................................................... 120The South ............................................................................................ 122The Northeast and New England ..................................................... 123

Oh, Canada! .................................................................................................. 125British Columbia ................................................................................ 127Alberta and Ontario ........................................................................... 128Quebec and the Maritimes ............................................................... 129

Mexican Cheeses: Taste and Tradition ..................................................... 130Getting Fresh in Central and South America ............................................ 132

Chapter 9: The British Isles and Ireland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Oh, Britannia! Cheeses of the United Kingdom ....................................... 135

Key characteristics of British cheeses ............................................ 136The Southwest and West .................................................................. 139The Southeast and East..................................................................... 140The Midlands ...................................................................................... 141The North of England and the Borders ........................................... 142Cheeses from Scotland and Wales ................................................... 143

Cheeses from the Emerald Isle .................................................................. 144

Chapter 10: France . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Fancying France ........................................................................................... 147

Becoming the King of Cheese ........................................................... 148Shopping for French cheeses in the States .................................... 148

Cheeses from the North .............................................................................. 150Île-de-France and its fabulous cheeses ........................................... 150Normandy’s cheeses ......................................................................... 153

Cheeses from Western France ................................................................... 154Loire Valley ......................................................................................... 155Pays Basque ........................................................................................ 156

Cheeses from the South and Southeast .................................................... 157Midi-Pyrenees ..................................................................................... 158Auvergne ............................................................................................. 158Rhône-Alpes and Haute-Savoie ........................................................ 159The cheeses of Corsica ..................................................................... 160

Cheeses from Eastern France .................................................................... 161Burgundy............................................................................................. 161Champagne ......................................................................................... 162Alsace-Lorraine .................................................................................. 163Franche-Comté ................................................................................... 164

Chapter 11: Italy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Cheeses from the North .............................................................................. 166

Valle d’Aosta and Piedmont ............................................................. 167Lombardy ............................................................................................ 168Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Veneto ...................................................... 169

xvii Table of Contents

Cheeses from Central Italy ......................................................................... 172Emilia-Romagna .................................................................................. 172Tuscany ............................................................................................... 174

Cheeses from Southern Italy ...................................................................... 175Campania ............................................................................................ 175Puglia/Sardinia and Sicily ................................................................. 176

Chapter 12: Spain, Portugal, and Other Mediterranean Countries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179

Simply Spain ................................................................................................. 179Cheese regions in the north ............................................................. 181Cheeses of the Basque Country ....................................................... 184Cheese from central and southern Spain ....................................... 185Spain’s island cheeses ....................................................................... 187

Portugal ......................................................................................................... 188A thorny situation: Thistle rennet ................................................... 190North and central Portuguese cheeses ........................................... 190Cheeses from southern Portugal ..................................................... 191

The Magnificent Mediterranean ................................................................ 192Turkish cheese, please ...................................................................... 192Greece ................................................................................................. 194Hello, halloumi: A famous Cypriot cheese ...................................... 195

Chapter 13: The Rest of Europe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197The Hills Are Alive: A Brief Primer on Alpine Cheeses ........................... 197Holey Cheese! Styles from Switzerland ..................................................... 198

Good eats from Berner Oberland and Emmental .......................... 199Fondue cheeses from Fribourg-Vaud .............................................. 200Raclette from Valais........................................................................... 201Specialties of the Jura Mountains .................................................... 201Cheeses from the “bread basket”: Nordost-Schweiz ..................... 202

Looking at Cheeses from Germany ........................................................... 203Cheeses from the North .................................................................... 203Cheeses from Bavaria and Allgäu .................................................... 205

Exploring Cheeses from the Netherlands ................................................. 207Gouda .................................................................................................. 207Boerenkaas ......................................................................................... 209Edam .................................................................................................... 209Graskaas .............................................................................................. 210

Cheeses from the Nordic Countries .......................................................... 210

Chapter 14: Off-the-Map Cheesemaking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Antipodean Artisans: Australia and New Zealand ................................... 213

Aussie ingenuity ................................................................................. 214New Zealand: A new era for Kiwi cheesemakers ........................... 220

Cheese For Dummies xviiiSubsistence and Barter: Cheese in Central Asia ...................................... 223

More than a luxury item .................................................................... 224Cheese that transcends borders: Part 1 ......................................... 225

Nomad’s Land: The Middle East ................................................................ 226The lifestyle and terrain of the pastoralists ................................... 226Cheese that transcends borders: Part 2 ......................................... 228

Part IV: Eating, Drinking, and Cooking with Cheese .... 229

Chapter 15: Making Cheese the Life of the Party . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Creating Great Plates .................................................................................. 231

How much is enough? Deciding on serving size ............................ 231Selecting cheeses for a plate ............................................................ 232Arranging your plate ......................................................................... 234

Picking Sides ................................................................................................ 234Savory .................................................................................................. 235Sweet ................................................................................................... 235

Composing the Components ...................................................................... 238Keeping it simple and other tips ...................................................... 238Complimentary condiments you can make yourself ..................... 239

Chapter 16: Having a Drink with Your Cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245The Noble Grape .......................................................................................... 245

A few rules and tips to get the best matches ................................. 246A quick primer on wine and a few pairings to win you over ........ 247Bad relationships ............................................................................... 250A quick list of time-tested pairings .................................................. 250

Hop to It: Pairings for Beer Nuts ................................................................ 251Sorting through styles of beer.......................................................... 252Finding a perfect pairing ................................................................... 252

If the Spirit Moves You ................................................................................ 255White spirits ....................................................................................... 255Brown spirits ...................................................................................... 257

The Teetotaling Table ................................................................................. 258Mixing Things Up: DIY Cocktails ................................................................ 259

Chapter 17: Cooking with Cheese, Pt . 1: Appetizers, Salads, and Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263

Cheese in the Kitchen ................................................................................. 264Measure by measure: Cheese conversion chart ............................ 264Which cheese do I choose? .............................................................. 265

How Appetizing! Cheesy Starters Your Guests Will Love ....................... 266Soup, Salad, and Side Days ......................................................................... 271

xix Table of Contents

Chapter 18: Cooking with Cheese, Pt . 2: Main Dishes and Desserts . . . 289The Main Event ............................................................................................ 289Cheese for Breakfast and Brunch .............................................................. 297The Sweet Hereafter .................................................................................... 305

Chapter 19: Making Cheese at Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Sourcing Your Equipment and Supplies ................................................... 318

Equip yourself .................................................................................... 318Getting the (rest of the) goods for cheesemaking ......................... 321Where to get your milk ...................................................................... 321

A Quick Review of the Basic Cheesemaking Steps .................................. 322Four Cheeses to Make on Your Own ......................................................... 323

Part V: The Part of Tens ............................................ 331

Chapter 20: Ten of the World’s Most Bizarre Cheeses . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Casu Marzu ................................................................................................... 333Airaq .............................................................................................................. 334Pule ................................................................................................................ 334Chhurpi ......................................................................................................... 335Moose Cheese .............................................................................................. 335Leipäjuusto ................................................................................................... 336Caravane (“Camelbert”) .............................................................................. 336Milbenkäse (Spinnenkäse) .......................................................................... 337Stinking Bishop ............................................................................................ 338Cougar Gold .................................................................................................. 338

Chapter 21: Ten of America’s Most Influential Artisanal Cheesemakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339

Alison Hooper and Bob Reese, Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery ... 339Tom and Nancy Clark, Old Chatham Sheepherding Company .............. 340Mary Keehn, Cypress Grove Chevre ......................................................... 340Judy Schad, Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheeses ....................................... 341Cary Bryant and David Gremmels, Rogue Creamery .............................. 341Cindy and Liam Callahan, Bellwether Farms ........................................... 342Jennifer Bice, Redwood Hill Farm .............................................................. 343Mike and Carol Gingrich, Uplands Cheese Company .............................. 343Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, Cowgirl Creamery ..................................... 344Mateo and Andy Kehler, Jasper Hill Farm ................................................ 344

Chapter 22: Ten Cheese Festivals You Shouldn’t Miss . . . . . . . . . . . 345The Festival of Cheese, American Cheese Society .................................. 345California Artisan Cheese Festival ............................................................. 346Cheese School of San Francisco ................................................................ 346Vermont Cheesemaker’s Festival .............................................................. 346

Cheese For Dummies xxOregon Cheese Festival .............................................................................. 347Great British Cheese Festival ..................................................................... 347Bra Cheese Festival ..................................................................................... 347Great Wisconsin Cheese Festival ............................................................... 348The Great Canadian Cheese Festival ......................................................... 348Seattle Cheese Festival ............................................................................... 348Amish Country Cheese Festival ................................................................. 349

Chapter 23: Ten Cheese Festivals You Shouldn’t Miss . . . . . . . . . . . 351Banon (Surface-ripened, Goat Milk) .......................................................... 351Barely Buzzed (Coated-Rind, Cow Milk) ................................................... 351Stracchino di Crescenza (Fresh, Cow Milk) ............................................. 352Epoisses (Washed-Rind, Cow Milk) ........................................................... 352Clisson (Washed-Rind, Goat Milk) ............................................................. 353Pleasant Ridge Reserve (Firm, Cow Milk) ................................................. 353Pondhopper (Firm, Goat Milk) ................................................................... 354Comté (Firm, Cow Milk) .............................................................................. 354Rogue River Blue (Blue, Cow Milk) ............................................................ 355Abbaye de Belloc (Semi-Firm, Sheep Milk) .............................................. 355

Appendix: Metric Conversion Guide ............................ 357

Index ....................................................................... 361

Foreword

I have always loved cheese, and my travels throughout Europe over the years have fed this passion of mine. During my last stint in France, where

I spent 2 1⁄2 years living and cooking in Paris, I developed a greater apprecia-tion for the craft of cheesemaking and the role that cheese plays in French cuisine.  Curiously enough, cheese is never served at the beginning of the meal. This is a purely American custom. Cheese is enjoyed at the end, before dessert, giving diners the opportunity to finish off their bottle of wine.

Cheese can also make it into your cooking repertoire. Personally, aged cheese is an ingredient I like to cook with because it is a great source of umami, the fifth taste of savoriness, which adds depth of flavor in a way similar to soy sauce.  That’s why you will find Parmigiano Reggiano and Gorgonzola on the East-West menu of my restaurant Blue Ginger in Wellesley, Mass.  I am fortunate to have the Wasik family, one of the country’s best cheesemongers, as neighbors. They have a stellar reputation for procuring the best cheeses and nurturing them in their cellar. I am proud to feature a Wasik’s Cheese Plate in the Lounge at Blue Ginger and at monthly wine dinners.

Cheese may be a familiar food, but it is a vast subject. This book provides the essential information you need in an easy-to-digest format and incorporates delicious serving suggestions. The material is extremely current, with con-tent you won’t find in other resources. The folks at culture magazine bring years of experience and an educated palate to the table. They provide infalli-ble guidance on how to assemble a cheese plate, and their wine pairing advice is spot on. 

Cheese For Dummies is a title that should not be overlooked by foodies or self-professed cheese connoisseurs. This book will make you fall in love with cheese if you haven’t already. Now that great cheese is easy to find in local cheese shops and even grocery stores, you don’t have to travel the world to enjoy it.

Peace and Good Eating,

Ming Tsai Chef/owner of Blue Ginger restaurant and host of Simply Ming

Introduction

W e may be cheese geeks, but we understand that, like wine, learning about cheese can be confusing, overwhelming, and (in the wrong

hands) pretentious. Our goal is to demystify cheese — which is, after all, mostly milk — and help you feel comfortable with buying, tasting, and serving it. The best advice we can give you is, there are no “wrongs” when it comes to cheese, so have fun with it.

About This BookOur goal throughout this book is to turn you on to cheese so that you can appreciate and enjoy it in all of its fresh, creamy, buttery, squeaky, hard, aged, crumbly, nutty, stinky glory. We also provide you with some inspired seasonal recipes featuring cheese and tempt you with descriptions of inter-esting styles and varieties (donkey milk or cheese mites, anyone?).

Each chapter is divided into sections, and each section contains information about a particular cheese-related topic, such as

✓ How cheese is made and aged, and an overview of cheesemaking terms

✓ The different styles of cheese and rind types and how to identify what you like

✓ How to buy, serve, and store cheese economically and safely

✓ How to pair cheese with different alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, make cheese-friendly cocktails, and create a cheese plate to remember

✓ How to cook with cheese (we include simple, elegant, seasonal recipes for inspiration), how to make your own cheese plate condiments, and how to make ricotta, mozzarella, and other fresh cheeses

Whatever aspects of cheese interest you, this book is designed for dog-earring and flipping, so have at it!

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Conventions Used in This BookTo help you navigate through this book, we’ve set up a few conventions:

✓ Unless otherwise noted, cheeses that are named for the regions in which they originated (like Brie, which originated in the Brie region in France) are capitalized; others, like chèvre, the French word for “goat,” are lowercased.

✓ Italic is used for emphasis and to highlight new words or terms that are defined.

✓ Boldfaced text is used to indicate the action part of numbered steps.

✓ Monofont is used for Web addresses.

In addition, the recipes in this book include preparation, cooking and processing times, and the yield you can expect from your efforts. All temperatures are Fahrenheit.

What You’re Not to ReadTo help you navigate through the content in this book, we make it easy to identify what material you can safely skip. Sidebars and text preceded by the “Technical Stuff” or “Ask the Expert” icons aren’t required reading for you to gain a solid working knowledge of cheese, but they’re interesting tidbits that we think you’ll enjoy. We’ve also ensured that they’re educational, so if you like trivia — especially of the cheesy kind — we recommend giving them a look.

Foolish AssumptionsIn writing this book, we made some assumptions about you:

✓ You like, but don’t know anything about, cheese.

✓ You know the basics about cheese but want more technical information and trivia.

✓ You know a fair amount about cheese but want to delve more deeply into the technical, cultural, and historic aspects; learn more about pair-ing and tasting; or discover the professional facets of the cheese indus-try such as affinage, cheesemongering, or cheesemaking.

3 Introduction

✓ You’re knowledgable about wine, beer, or spirits, and want to know how to pair cheese accordingly (FYI: Wine For Dummies, Beer For Dummies, and Whiskey and Spirits For Dummies, all published by John Wiley & Sons, are excellent reference guides for pairing novices).

✓ You’re into food and want to know how to put together a cheese plate, or you’re looking for delicious, cheese-centric, and home cheesemaking recipes.

How This Book Is OrganizedOne of our main goals while writing this book was to make the information easy to read, understand, and find. To that end, we organized this very broad subject into several sections, each containing chapters devoted to a particular cheese-related topic. Following is a quick run-down of the parts and the kinds of info you’ll find in each.

Part I: Getting to Know CheeseThis part is designed to give you fundamental knowledge about cheese. Here, we explore the history of cheese, its nutritional benefits, the basics of cheesemaking, the different styles of cheese and types of rinds, and how and why cheese is aged. We also take a look at terroir (the geography and cli-mate of a place of origin) and discuss designation (the country- or European Union-specific terms for certain regional foods, beer, and wine), how those terms apply to cheeses of note, and why it’s important to designate these products.

You may be wondering why the information in these chapters is significant. Can’t you like a cheese without knowing any of this stuff? Sure. But by learning these things, you can begin to understand what you like about a cheese and increase your appreciation of it as a handmade product. This knowledge can also help you choose other cheeses, opening up a whole world that you may not have known existed. You’ll also gain an understanding of why artisan cheese is such an important cultural and subsistence food throughout much of the world, and why supporting domestic cheesemakers and small-scale agriculture is so crucial.

4 Cheese For Dummies

Part II: Choosing and Serving CheeseThis part shows you how to put the cheesemaking terminology and other information from Part I to good (tasting) use. In these three chapters, we explain how to use all of your senses to assess and flavor-profile cheeses so that you can discover what you like and don’t like. Once you know that, the rest is easy: We show you how to purchase cheese (including tips on how to talk to a cheesemonger like a pro), serve, and store cheese.

Part III: Cheese around the WorldPay a visit to this part for an armchair tour of cheese history, cheese culture, and types of cheeses from around the world. Here, you can find out how geography and climate play a major role in the style, production, and flavor of a cheese. Whether it inspires you to look for new varieties at your local shop or grocery store or to buy a plane ticket, you’ll learn that cheese has no language barrier.

Part IV: Eating, Drinking, and Cooking with CheeseIf you love cheese straight-up, chances are you enjoy cooking with it or pairing it with wine, beer, spirits, or non-alcoholic drinks, as well. In this part, we expand your cheese repertoire by explaining the basics of cooking with cheese; providing you with a variety of easy, seasonal recipes; and explaining the fundamentals of beverage pairing.

We also show you how to create an impressive cheese plate (and what to serve alongside) and provide you with essential information and recipes for home cheesemaking.

Part V: The Part of TensWhether you’re looking for unusual trivia (how about maggot cheese or milking a moose?), the most influential cheesemakers in the United States, or what cheese festivals are worth checking out, this part is where to find it.

5 Introduction

Icons Used in This BookTo help you find specific kinds of information, we’ve included the following icons throughout this book:

This icon highlights any wisdom we have to offer about how to buy, serve, or store cheese, or suggested reading for the topic at hand.

When you see this icon, you know that we’re telling you essential cheese information. This is the stuff that you need to know.

This icon appears beside answers to common questions or insider info gleaned from cheese industry folks in all capacities.

We use this icon to point out technical information that we find fascinating, but that you don’t really need to know (our feelings won’t be too hurt if you skip it). Just think of these bits as fun trivia or ways to impress and educate your friends over a plate of (what else?) cheese.

This icon indicates how to best serve or pair a cheese with other foods or beverages, or what applications (cooking, melting, snacking, and so on) the cheese is best used for.

Where to Go from HereThink of this book as a reference manual. It’s structured so that each chapter or section stands on its own. If you just want to know how to make a stand-out cheese plate or beverage pairing for your next party, head to Chapter 16. Chapters 3 and 4 break down the different styles of soft and hard cheeses and provide you with serving suggestions for each. If you want to know how cheese is made — from the animal to the plate — Chapter 2 takes you there. Bottom line: Where you go from here depends entirely on where your inter-est, or palate, takes you.

6 Cheese For Dummies