CHATEAU LYNCH-BAGESA VERTICAL TASTING AT ROBERSON WINE WITH SYLVIE CAZES-REGIMBEAU

TUESDAY OCTOBER 21st 2008

CHATEAU LYNCH-BAGES

Located just outside the pre�y hamlet of Bages, this 5ème cru classé proper-ty is one of Bordeaux’s most consistent performers and an estate that raises more ques�ons about the validity of the 1855 classifica�on than any other.

It was Jurine that built the château and it was during his tenure that Lynch-Bages was designated as a 5ème cru classé in the classifica�on of 1855. Jurine’s ownership ended in 1861 and the château saw numerous owners come and go before it was purchased by Jean-Charles Cazes in 1934.

The Cazes era has established Lynch-Bages as one of the top proper�es in Bordeaux as first Jean-Charles, then André, Jean-Michel and Sylvie have all worked �relessley to improve quality and promote both the wines of Lynch-Bages and Bordeaux.Today the winery is state of the art and Daniel Llose, the Chief Winemaker, consistently produces wines that are far superior to their status as a fi�h growth.

Sylvie Cazes-Régimbeau, who we are delighted to have with us at Roberson tonight, is the sister of Jean-Michel Cazes and President of the Board of Directors at Château Lynch-Bages. In addi�on to her work with at the château Sylvie is also the first female president of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, a highly influencial organisa�on that is instrumental in the promo�on of the wines of Bordeaux.

LYNCH-BAGESTHE ESTATE

The estate dates back to the 16th century when it was known as ‘Domaine de Bages’. It became Château Lynch-Bages af-ter being inherited by Thomas Lynch, the son of John Lynch, an Irish soldier that had se�led in Bordeaux.Following the death of his brother-in-law in 1749 Thomas took ownership of the domaine and it remained in the Lynch family for the next 75 years.

In 1824 the property was sold to a Swiss merchant called Sébas�an Jurine, who played an important role in the devel-opment of the estate.

LYNCH-BAGESTHE ESTATE

The Lynch-Bages vineyards overlook the estuary of the River Gironde, just outside the city of Paulliac and have an average age of 30-35 years old. The vines are situated in two main blocks - the fi rst is on the gravelley plateau of Bages, and the second is close to Mouton-Rothschild.

Plan� ngs in the vineyard are, as one would expect, predominently red (95% of the total). These can be broken down into: 75% Cabernet Sauvignon; 15% Merlot; and 10% Cabernet Franc. The remaining 5% of vines are white varie� es: 45% of which are Sauvignon Blanc; 40% Sémillon; and 15% Muscadelle, all used in the produc� on of the estate’s dry white white ‘Blanc de Lynch-Bages’.

What the cri� cs say:

“I know of now professional in the fi eld today that would not argue that [Lynch-Bages’} quality is more akin to a second growth.......It is diffi cult not to enjoy a bo� le of Lynch-Bages.”Robert Parker

“Lynch-Bages is a much loved wine, and for good reason.”Stephen Brook

“A perennially a� rac� ve château.”Michael Broadbent

“Mouton for not quite millionaires.”Jancis Robinson

BLANC DE LYNCH-BAGESAccording to Stephen Brook in his book ‘The Complete Bordeaux’, life began somewhat inaus-piciously for Blanc de Lynch-Bages. There had always been sma�erings of white grapes planted throughout the vineyards at the estate, and one year Jean-Michel decided that he would have them vinified and made into a white wine that the family could enjoy on their trips to the beach. Not long a�er, it was discovered by an inspector who stung the Cazes family with fines for an ar-ray of offences rela�ng to the white wine - despite the protesta�ons of Jean-Michel that it was only for family consump�on!

chateau haut-bages averousNow the second wine of Lynch-Bages, Haut-Bages Averous was for many years a standalone prop-erty of Cru Bourgouis status. In 1973 the proper�es were merged, and Haut-Bages Averous has since been fundamental to improving the quality of the Lynch-Bages Grand Vin.As a general rule, at least 20-30% of the estate’s fruit is declassified into H-B A, and much of this will come from young vines (3-12 years) or parcels of land that don’t yield fruit of the calibre re-quired for a Grand Vin of Lynch-Bages’ quality.

LYNCH-BAGESBLANC & H-B A

A�er all the trouble that his clandes�ne white wine had caused, Jean-Michel decided to make use on an usused piece of land in the Haut-Medoc by plan�ng it with white varie�es.The innaugral commercial vintage was 1990, since when Blanc de Lynch Bages has gone on to establish itself as one of the most sought a�er dry white wines in Bordeaux. Produc�on is usually around 35,000 bo�les of delicious and age-worthy white Bordeaux.

Tonight we will be tas�ng the excellent 2006 vintage.

Tonight we will be looking at two vintages of H-B A.The 2001 was scored 5 stars by a Decanter Magazine tas�ng panel that declared it to be the best of 2001’s second wines in the Haut-Medoc.

1995 was a fantas�c year for Lynch-Bages, and we will be tas�ng both the H-B A and the Grand Vin from this vintage. Not only will this afford us the opportunity to compare the two wines from the same vintage, but it will also give some idea as to how H-B A develops in bo�le.

LYNCH-BAGESTHE 1990s*nb: CRITICS SCORES ARE FOR THE VINTAGE*

1999Robert Parker: 88 pointsMichael Broadbent: ** to ****

The final vintage of the 20th century proved to be a tricky one for Bordeaux, with difficult weath-er condi�ons making vital decisions like when to harvest all the more important.In general it was seen as being a Cabernet year and a be�er vintage for estates on the le�-bank of the river. Rain and hail storms struck at the beginning of September just before the Merlot was due to be picked, making ‘99 a struggle for many vignerons on the right-bank. The weather cleared up though, and condi�ons improved greatly on the weeks running up to the Cabernet harvest. Almost ten years on, ‘99 has proven to be a decent vintage with many charming wines and excellent value to be found.

199696 points: Robert Parker

** to ****: Michael Broadbent

Another Cabernet vintage that was especially useful in the northern part of the Medoc, where they avoided the heavy rains that afflicted more southernly le�-bank appella�ons and those on the right-bank on the run-up to the harvest.The ‘Big Four’ appella�ons of the Haut-Medoc fared very well, and ‘96 turned out to be an excel-lent year that produced plump, full and concentrated wines.The top wines from 1996 are developing very well indeed and are drinking deliciously already despite being many years from maturity.

1995Robert Parker: 92 pointsMichael Broadbent: ****

A�er a succession of four wet and rela�vely disappoin�ng years (’91 – ’94) it was a relief for the Bordelais to finally get an excellent vintage.Despite the rain that fell at the start of September, condi�ons were generally excellent through-out the en�re growing season and vignerons across the region were very happy.Development of the wines over the past decade has confirmed ’95’s status as a stellar vintage, promp�ng Michael Broadbent to consider adding an extra star! It has proven to be an a�rac�ve year that is open and expressive whilst maintaining the structure to ensure further improve-ment.

199098 points: Robert Parker*****: Michael Broadbent

Now considered to be one of the benchmark vintages of the 20th century, 1990 was one of the ho�est years on record (including the ho�est July) and even the rains came at the perfect �me to ensure a top notch harvest.A�er some precipita�on during September (just what was needed a�er a roas�ng couple of months) the weather cooled down but remained dry right up un�l the grapes were picked. All of the major appella�ons were highly successful.The wines have developed magnificently and con�nue to delight, with all the usual suspects (and many more besides) producing spectacular wines with years ahead of them before full maturity.

1989Robert Parker: 90 pointsMichael Broadbent: *****This was a superb vintage that produced many wonderful wines, despite being slightly overshad-owed by the success of 1990. It proved to be a very warm year - so warm that harves�ng took place very early and those estates that le� the harvest late did so at the risk of losing acidity.Even with lower than ideal acid levels, the wines have proved wrong the doubters that said they wouldn’t age well. They have remained ripe and plump with silky tannins and enough structure to promise a few more years of improvement in the top wines.

198590 points: Robert Parker*****: Michael Broadbent

’85 was another great vintage in what was a splendid decade for the wines of Bordeaux. The condi�ons were nigh-on perfect and everything seemed to go according to plan throughout the growing season.Some cri�cs have been more enthusias�c than others on the development of the ‘85s, although in general the view is a very posi�ve one. Michael Broadbent rates it as his favourite vintage of the 80s, which is no mean feat when one considers ’82 and ’89.

1982Robert Parker: 98 pointsMichael Broadbent: *****

Ini�al misgivings from some commentators quickly gave way to a crescendo of enthusiasm for the vintage, with a certain Robert M. Parker Jnr staking (and making) his reputa�on on his gush-ing praise of the 1982s.As is usually the case in top vintages the weather was excep�onally warm and in almost every commune (Margaux is a notable excep�on) the condi�ons were considered to be the best since 1961.Ripe and concentrated with plenty of structure, these were wines for the cellar and the best ex-amples should be le� there for a few more years. In general, the ‘82s are drinking superbly well now and they will con�nue to provide excellent drinking for years to come.

LYNCH-BAGESTHE 1980s

LYNCH-BAGES

THE 1961

1961 Château Lynch-Bages 7 £465.00 Btl: £418.50Case: £372.00

1961Robert Parker: *****Michael Broadbent: *****If there was a compe��on for the very best vintage of the 20th century, then in all likelihood ’61 would (arguably, of course) slug it out with ’45 for the �tle. In fact they were similar vintages as severe frost early in the growing cycle reduced the crop significantly in both years. The added concentra�on of the subsequent fruit produced wines of prodigious ageing capacity that are, in the best examples, s�ll many years from fading.1961 is legendary, and with Lynch-Bages being one of the (many) outstanding performers of the vintage, it is a privilege to be tas�ng this wine tonight.

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