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Chapter 29

UV Gels

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“Right now at this very moment we have a mind, which is all the basic equipment

we need to achieve complete happiness.”

– Howard Cutler

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Objectives

• Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of UV gels.• Describe when to use the one-color and two-color

methods for applying UV gels.• Name and describe the types of UV gels used in current

systems.• Identify the supplies needed for UV gel application.• Determine when to use UV gels.• Discuss the differences between UV light units and UV

lamps.

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• Describe how to apply one-color UV gel on tips and natural nails.

• Describe how to apply UV gels over forms.

• Describe how to maintain UV gel nail enhancements.

Objectives (continued)

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UV Gels

• A type of nail enhancement product that hardens when exposed to a UV gel light; an increasingly popular method for nail enhancement services

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UV Gel Characteristics

• Rely on monomer liquid (ML) and polymer powder (PP) ingredients

• Part of the family of acrylates

• Rely mostly on oligomers– Short chains of monomers not long enough to be

considered polymers and often referred to as "prepolymers"

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• Traditional gels: rely on urethane acrylates• Newer gel systems: rely on urethane methacrylates• Reaction: resins react to UV light• Photoinitiator: creates polymerization reaction• Curing: combination of resin, photoinitiator, and curing

lamp• Requires UV lamp exposure to cure

UV Gel Characteristics (continued)

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• Easy to apply, file, and maintain

• Not as hard as monomer liquid and polymer powder

• Viscosity

UV Gel Characteristics (continued)

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UV Gel Categories

• Clear resin for one-color method

• Pink and white resin for two-color method

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Types of UV Gels

• UV bonding gels: used to increase adhesion

• UV building gels: use thick viscosity resin

• Self-leveling UV gels: provide smoother surface than self-building gels

• Pigmented gels: include color

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• UV gel polishes: cure in UV light unit

• UV gloss gels: sealing, finishing, or shine gels– Traditional (with a sticky inhibition layer)– Tack-free (no inhibition layer)– Opacity: amount of colored pigment concentration in a gel

Types of UV Gels (continued)

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UV Gel Supplies

• UV gel light unit• Synthetic brushes• UV gel primer or bonding gel• UV gel• Nail tips• Nail adhesive• Nail cleanser or primer

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• Abrasive files and buffers

• Cleansing solution

• Lint-free cleansing wipes

UV Gel Supplies (continued)

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Choosing the Proper UV Gel

• Flat fingernails: thicker UV building gel best

• Arched or curved fingernails: self-leveling gels are best

• Frequent breaks: gel with fiberglass stronger

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UV Light Units and Lamps

• UV lamp: light bulb (most common is 9-watt)

• UV light unit: powers and controls lamp

• Unit wattage: measures how much electricity lamp consumes

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Gel Polishes

• Most highly pigmented

• Cure rather than dry

• Do not imprint or smudge while lacquer is drying

• Do not thicken over time

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Gel Maintenance

• Use 180 grit abrasive file.

• Clean nail with recommended cleanser or 99 percent isopropanol.

• Remove oils for better adhesion.

• File with a lighter touch than on ML/PP.

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UV Gel Removal

• Hard (traditional) UV gels: cannot be removed with acetone; must be filed off

• Soft UV gels: removed by soaking in acetone

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Practical Class

• Pre-Service Procedure• Post-Service Procedure• One-Color UV Gel with Gel Polish• Two-Color Method• UV Gel over Forms• UV Gel Maintenance• UV Gel over ML/PP• UV Hard Gel Removal• UV Soft Gel Removal

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Summary and Review

• Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of UV gels.

• When would you use a one-color method of applying UV gels? And two-color?

• What are the types of UV gels used in current systems?

• What supplies are needed for UV gel applications?

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• When should you use UV gels?

• When should you use a building gel, a self-leveling gel, or a UV gel that uses fiberglass?

• What is the difference between UV light units and UV lamps?

Summary and Review (continued)

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• List the steps to take when applying one-color UV gel on tips or natural nails.

Summary and Review (continued)

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• Describe how UV gels are applied over forms.

Summary and Review (continued)

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• Describe how to maintain UV gel nail enhancements.

Summary and Review (continued)

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• Explain how to correctly remove hard UV gels.

• Explain how to correctly remove soft UV gels.

Summary and Review (continued)

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Congratulations!

You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.