chapter 11waukeefcs.weebly.com/.../3774158/chapter_11_notes.pdf · 2/20/12 3 chapter 11: sizing and...

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Beyond Design

By Sandra J. Keiser and Myrna B. Garner

PowerPoint developed by Elizabeth Law

Copyright ©2009 Fairchild Books

•  All rights reserved. No part of this presentation covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means–graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems–without written permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-56367-960-5

GST R 133004424

Sizing and Fit

Chapter 11 Beyond Design

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Chapter 11: Sizing and Fit © 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 4

Chapter Objectives

•  Define sizing as interpreted in today’s market

•  Examine history of voluntary sizing standards

•  Identify size categories of women’s, men’s, and children’s apparel

•  Define fit and its components

Chapter 11: Sizing and Fit © 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.


Chapter Objectives

•  Understand role of dress forms and fit models

•  Understand use of grading



Sizing •  Sizing - assignment of individuals of particular

body type into categories that reflect the body measurements of those in that size group

•  Sizing issues common to all categories of clothing but more fully documented in women’s ready-to-wear

•  Major source of sizing problems – diversity of U.S. population

•  FTC, DOC attempted to standardize; no mandatory standards in U.S.


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History of Women’s Apparel Sizing

•  Charts developed to reflect groupings of young and mature women

•  First American sizing charts – catalog firms needed some consistency in measurements

•  Original charts inadequate with increasing diversity in population



First Sizing Systems

•  Data collected by military in 1941 from women in the U.S. Army at the time

•  Revised by NIST in 1971 to reflect ethnic diversity and age group representation

•  Original military data reworked and adapted several times

•  1994 ASTM published revision reflecting what was believed to be measurements in use



Updates •  1980s University of Arizona at Tucson

study of women over age 55; reflected need for fitting changes for mature consumers

•  Last decade ASTM updated size ranges for petites and women’s sizes, added maternity

•  Many consumers, manufacturers, and retailers agree that voluntary sizing does not represent women’s body measurements


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New Body Measurement Data

•  SizeUSA – anthropomorphic study; purpose was to gather actual body measurement data on U.S. consumers using a 3D measurement system and body scanner and feed data into measurement extraction software

•  Janice Wang – cause of ill-fitting garments is industry misconception of hourglass figure as dominant body shape



New Body Measurement Data

•  Using SizeUSA data, Istook defined body shapes with four dominant types: – Rectangle shape – Spoon shape –  Inverted triangle – Hourglass – Dominant shape closer to pear shape than

hourglass – Only 10 to 20 percent of most groups fit ASTM

standard size tables Chapter 11: Sizing and Fit © 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of

Condé Nast Publications, Inc.


Women’s Sizing

•  Sized for adult women; assigned numbers that reflect relationship of height, bust, waist, hip, and torso length measurements

•  Grade – difference from one size to next in range

•  Sample size – represents body measurements from which full size range is developed

•  Commonly use midsize as sample size


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Women’s Sizing

•  Variations from one company to another can be extreme

•  Manufacturing contributing to size confusion by vanity sizing - placing smaller size label on larger size garment

•  Size migration – customer typically fits into range of three or more sizes, depending on manufacturer and cut of garment



Women’s Sizing

•  Consumers putting pressure on manufacturers to improve sizing systems

•  Pressure expected to increase with non-store purchases, (catalog and internet sales)

•  Chicos – unique sizing system, sizes 0-3 •  Intellifit company uses scanner to collect

store data (David’s Bridal)



Women’s Sizing

•  Categories – Misses – Petites – Talls – Women’s Plus – Women’s Petites – Juniors – Maternity – Other—intimate wear, gloves


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Men’s Sizing •  Men’s wear – more consistent than sizing of

women’s wear, because men’s styles do not fluctuate as much as women’s

•  Categories –  Suits, jackets, and coats –  Pants –  Men’s Furnishings

•  shirts •  underwear •  sleepwear •  ties and accessories

•  Young men’s



Children’s Sizing

•  Categories –  Infants – Toddlers – Children’s – Girls’ – Boys’



Metrics and Sizing

•  The U.S. is currently the only country in the world that does not use metric system

•  Many countries refuse to accept products not graded according to metric system; garments produced here for export may require metric labels


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Garment Fit

•  Biggest complaint from consumers about apparel products is that customers cannot find something that fits

•  Sizing is based on body measurements, whereas fit is based on garment measurements

•  Fit – conformance of garments to shape and size of the individuals wearing them



Elements of Garment Fit •  Grain – reflects direction of threads in fabric

– On-grain: threads meet at exactly 90 degrees – Off-grain: garments will hang unevenly – Bias: tend to stretch out as they hang

•  Set – reflects smooth fit with no unwanted wrinkles

•  Line – way garment structural lines conform to the body



Elements of Garment Fit •  Balance – right and left sides of body look

even •  Ease – difference between body

measurements of intended wearer and measurements of finished garment – Functional Ease or wearing ease

•  amount added to body measurements to compensate for body movements

•  required in order for garment to be worn


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Elements of Garment Fit

•  Ease (cont.) – Design Ease – reflects amount added to

combined body and functional ease measurements to make garment produce the look desired by designer

– Ease varies depending on garment style, intended use, and fashion of the time



Elements of Garment Fit



Forms and Fit Models •  Styling and fit evaluated throughout product

development cycle •  Sample garments produced and placed on

dress forms to evaluate grain, set, line, and balance

•  To establish appropriate ease, sample garments tried on by fit models – individuals selected to represent age and build of the target customer and conform to master size


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Grading

•  Grading – process of scaling the master size of garment to the range of sizes to be produced

•  Amounts added (or subtracted) from each measurement as it changes from one size to the next – grade rules

•  Grade rule tables – sets of measurements that reflect increments between sizes for each of the grade rules



Grading

•  Circumference Grading •  Length Grading •  Width Grading •  Uneven Grading – or nonlinear grading is

achieved when it is determined that the target customer is shaped somewhat differently than standards in sizing charts



Mass Customization

•  Mass produced apparel was not designed to accommodate uneven grading

•  Body scanning and computerized alteration programs now make mass customization a possibility

•  Mass customization – application of mass production techniques to production of a single customer-configured garment


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