Chapter 20

Chemical Texture Services

A blast from the past

pics.livejournal.com/.../pic/0003cc97/s320x240

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www.scott.k12.va.us/rita/51757_2.JPG

Chemical texture services gives the ability to permanently change

the hair’s natural wave pattern

*offers variety of styling options

~used to curl straight hair

~straighten overly curly hair

~soften coarse, straight hair

www.wisconsinhistory.org/.../archives/003095.asp

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all4women.co.za/files.php?file=HairCare1_1751...

www.2009haircuts.info/.../2008/10/44.jpeg

Add:First perm recorded 4000

b.c.

First recorded perm given:1.Wrapped over crudely made wooden rollers2.Mixture of soil and water3.Baked in sun4.All day

Texture services include:

*Permanent waving

*Relaxing

*Curl Reforming (soft curl permanents)

The Structure of Hair

* involves chemically and physically changing the structure of hair

The Cuticle

*tough exterior layer

*protects the hair from damage

*chemicals must penetrate cuticle -into cortex

www.hairfinder.com/hairquestions/

hairporosity.jpg

The Cortex

*middle layer of the hair

*responsible for strength and elasticity

*breaking side bonds -changes the natural wave

www.hairdressersus.com/micro/Image10b.jpg

www.hairflatiron.org/.../damaged_hair_41220.gif

Psychemedics.com

Shows how prescription and recreational drugs get trapped in the cortex.

Even an aspirin can affect the outcome of PW Blood supply

The Medulla

*innermost layer-called pith or core

*does not play a role in texture services

www.tardigrade.us/stfmel70.jpg

Importance of pH in Texture Services

*potential hydrogen*measures acidity and alkalinity*range from 0-14

7 is neutral

below 7 is acidic

Above 7 is alkaline4.bp.blogspot.com/.../HellaciousHair222.jpg

Chemical texturizers:

*raise the pH to soften and swell the hair

• lifts the cuticle

•allows solution to reach the cortex

*coarse, resistant hair requires a highly alkaline chemical

solutionwww.pgbeautyscience.com/.../Damage%2016.jpg

*porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less alkaline solution

newsimg.bbc.co.uk/.../_44474174_hair18_416.jpg

Basic Building Blocks of Hair

Amino acids:*compound of carbon,

oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen

Add: 18 amino acidswww.protocolsupplements.com/Sports-Performanc...

Peptide bonds (end bonds)*link amino acids together*form polypeptide chain

Polypeptide chains*long chains of amino

acids

web.virginia.edu/.../Images/8883n05_02.jpg

images.stanzapub.com/readers/2008/09/28/1_6.png

•Keratin proteins

*long coiled polypeptide chains

•Side bonds*disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds

www.foundationz.co.uk/.../hair_bonds.gif

•Keratin protein

*long chains of amino acids linked together end

to end

•Chemical bonds linking amino acids together

*peptide bonds

*end bonds

•Chains of amino acids are called

polypeptides www.codefun.com/Images/Genetic/tRNA/image004.jpg

Side Bonds

•Cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains

*elasticity and strength

~Disulfide bonds

~Salt bonds

~Hydrogen bonds

•Altering these side bonds makes:

~wet setting

~thermal styling

~permanent waving

~soft curl permanents

~chemical hair relaxing possible

www.caribehair.com/geovannaperm1.jpg

farm2.static.flickr.com/1137/565739214_26d62e...

Disulfide Bonds

*strong chemical side bond

*only broken by chemicals -not heat or water

*chemical and physical changes -make PW, curl re-forming, and relaxing possible

*strongest of three

*accounts for one-third of hair’s overall strength

Add:

Disulfide bonds add strength to the keratin protein

Disulfide bonds must be broken down during the perming process

Salt Bonds

*weak physical side bonds

*easily broken by changes in pH

*re-form when the pH returns to normal

*accounts for one-third of hair’s overall strength

www.pgbeautyscience.com/.../twoh/v3/Pump-3.jpg

Hydrogen Bonds

*weak side bonds

*easily broken by water or heat

wet setting/thermal styling

*re-form as hair dries or cools

*accounts for one-third of hair’s overall strength

FYI: Wet set-physical change

*breaking bonds

*wetting hair/rolling on rollers

*re-forms when hair is dry

www.pgbeautyscience.com/.../twoh/v3/Perm-6.jpg

Not in Book: Do not add, just listen

The Client Consultation

*most important part

*first:

-determine exactly what the client expects

-what is possible

*nothing will compensate for a lack of communication

•Ask open-ended questions-find out what results

are expected•What type of coloring product is used

-metallic salts/not on permed hair

http://www.helpusendhunger.org/perms411dosanddonts/

•Look at pictures-desired style

•Previous texture services-likes-dislikes

•Currently styles his/her hair-discuss any changes

resulting from the texture service1.bp.blogspot.com/.../s400/hair+stylist.jpg

•Determine finished hairstyle-haircut-degree of curl or

relaxing

•Evaluate -condition-texture-wave pattern

•Fill out record cardwww.totalcosmetology.com/Images/barbers.jpg

z.about.com/d/womenshair/1/0/-/0/-/-/IMG_3058.JPG

Results of spiral conventional perm with white rods

z.about.com/.../1/0/R/-/-/-/permafter.JPG

www.wellpromo.com/upload/upimg23/Spiral-Perm-...

Permanent Waving

*two step process

1. Physical change

-wrapping

2. Chemical change

-PW solution

-neutralizermedia3.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/phot...

cdn-write.demandstudios.com/.../80/5/20585.jpeg

The Perm Wrap

•Wet set versus PW

-difference: PW breaks the disulfide bonds

Size, shape, and type of curl =

size, shape, and type of rod

End of story!!!!!

•The correct perm rod and wrapping method=successful PW

***selection of solution

***What you wrap is what you get

Q. Without a perm tool, can I achieve a curl in the hair if the PW solution is applied to just the natural hair? Hair wrapped on a tongue depressor

Q. What curl pattern can we expect to achieve ?

Types of Rods

Concave rods

•smaller diameter in the center

•larger diameter on the ends

•tighter curl in center

(I feel these follow the shape of the head

better)stylors.com

Straight rods

*equal entire length

*uniform curl

*short rods

-small awkward sectionsHairfinder.com

Add: Selection of rod size

1.Amount of curl desired

2.Physical characteristics of the hair

-length-texture-elasticity

Other Perm Tools

Soft bender rods

*12” long

*uniform diameter

*bent into almost any shape

Toolboxes.flexiblelearning.net

www.metroasis.com/suepermx.jpg

Getsomehairapy.wordpress.com

Beautystore.com

Toolboxes.flexiblelearning.net

Loop rod or Circle rod

*12” long

*uniform curl

***spiral

***extremely long hair

Advanceddesigner.com

Hairfinder.com

Today:Many perms are performed with

•Large rollers

•Rag rollers

•Other tools to achieve large, loose curls

*large tools for root perms*create lift and volume without curls

Add:Pre-perm analysis determines:

1.Is the hair in good condition

2. Which perm product should be used

3. Which perm wrapping technique and rod/parting sizes to use

End Papers

* end wraps

*absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair (protects)

*extends beyond ends of hair

-fishhooks (demo)

*ends smooth and straight (covered)

-fried ends

Techniques:

Double flat wrap

*use while in school

*most control over ends

*evenly distributed

Single flat wrap

*does not protect ends

*use only as a third paper

Demo each

Bookend wrap

-one paper folded over

-use with short rods/short lengths

-avoid bunching ends

-keep hair in center

Sectioning a Perm

*sectioning into panels -size, shape, and direction vary

*then, divide into subsections/base sections

*length and width of the rod being used

Read “Here’s a Tip”

*** Break the rule

-11 perm rod PW

z.hubpages.com/u/1186366_f520.jpg

colorperfectsalon.com/images/Weav.JPG

Lasts about 2 months

Base Placement

•Position of rod to its base

On base

-45 degrees angle beyond perpendicular

-greater volume

-my preference

-can mark or break the hair…use picks

www.schillingdouglas.com/images/perm_new.jpg

Off base

-45 degrees below center (perpendicular)

-least volume (scalp area-no curl)

Half off base-

-90 degree angle

-minimizes tension

***minimizes crispness of curl

i.ehow.com/.../5052200/209825-main_Thumb.jpg

en.ask-schwarzkopf.com/content/image_path/125...

Base Direction

*horizontally, vertically, or diagonally

*backward, forward, or to one side

*wrapping with the natural direction of hair growth causes

less stress/less breakage

-against hair growth “band” or breakage

FYI: Not on Test

Direction of Hair Growth

Streams, whorls, and cowlicks

• base direction

• wrapping pattern

***wrapping the hair in the opposite direction will help

client manage an area better for about 2 months

Wrapping Techniques

Croquignole perm wrap

*ends to scalp

*in overlapping concentric layers -perpendicular

*produces a tighter curl at the ends and a larger curl at

the scalpNote-not noticeable on short hair/will be obvious in long hair

Spiral perm wrap

*from ends to scalp

*wrapped at an angle

-like a grip on a tennis racket

-angle remains constant

*conventional or loop rods

*produces a uniform curl from scalp to ends

Different tools to achieve different looks

toolboxes.flexiblelearning.net.au/.../rod_11.jpg cdn-write.demandstudios.com/.../20/9/35529.jpg

Sedu-hairstyle.net

Womenshairabout.com

•Extra long hair*double rod wrap

-piggyback wrap

*better penetration of processing and

neutralizing solutionsAdd: better rinsing, blotting

results also.

*tighter curl at scalp than croquinole wrap (even

curl-scalp to ends)Fig. 20-27

hairstylist.up.seesaa.net/image/piggy20back.jpg

Chemistry of Permanent Waving

*alkaline solution

-softens and swells the hair

-raises the cuticle

-solution penetrates into the cortex

www.naturallycurly.com/.../2009/06/fig2.jpg

*five minutes-swelling of cuticle (pH 9.4)

Fig. 20-29

*five minutes with acid-balanced

(pH 7.5)

-far less swelling of the cuticle

Figure 20-28

Reduction Reaction

*once in the cortex, waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction

-either the addition of hydrogen (in PW)

-or the removal of oxygen

*PW-due to the addition of hydrogen

*PW solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each

sulfur atom

*breaks their attachment to each other

*once broken, polypeptide chains forms into new curled shape

(size of the rod)www.foundationz.co.uk/.../hair_bonds.gif

Reduction breaks disulfide bonds

*hydrogen in PW solution-softens the hair

Oxidation reforms them*oxygen in neutralizer

-rehardens the hair in the new shape

img.dailymail.co.uk/.../037platell3_468x226.jpg

•reducing agents used in PW solutions

*thiol

-referred to as thio

*Thioglycolic acid is most common

*colorless liquid with strong unpleasant odor

*stronger perms

-higher concentration of thio (hydrogen)

-more disulfide bonds are broken

Figure 15-31

hairsisters.com/.../ItalianPerm12_S.jpg

*acids do not swells the hair or penetrate the cortex, so manufacturers add an alkalizing agent-ammonia

*new chemical called ATG

“ammonia thioglycolate” (alkaline)

*ATG is the active ingredient or reducing agent

*degree of alkalinity (pH)-overall strength

Coarse hair*more alkaline waving

solutionPorous hair

*easily penetrated*damaged by highly

alkaline solution

*alkalinity should correspond to the

-resistance

-strength

-porosity

of the cuticle layer

Q. How do you determine the resistance, strength and porosity of the cuticle layer?

Q. If the hair has low porosity, will it require a high alkaline or a

milder alkaline solution?

Q. If the elasticity of the hair is poor, which strength of perm solution should be used?

Add:

Stop action perms-curl takes place in a fixed time without the risk of over-processing

(we use on the clinic floor)

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Types of Permanent Waves

*First alkaline waves (cold waves)

*Developed in 1941

*pH between 9.0-9.6

(10,000 times stronger than hair)

*room temperature (without heat)

*

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Acid waves:

Glyceryl monothioglycolate(GMTG)

*acid with low pH

*primary reducing agent in all acid waves

*also contains ATG (cold wave)

*repeated exposure to GMTG causes allergic

sensitivity in hairstylists and clients

***use correct draping procedure

***use gloves and apron or smock

True acid waves

*contain

-permanent waving solution

-activator

-neutralizer

www.wwbeautystore.com/shopping/color-perm/rev...

*activator tube contains

GMTG

-must be added to PW solution immediately before using

*introduced in 1970’s

*pH between 4.5-7.0

*requires heat

*processes more slowly

*does not produce as firm a curl

*GMTG low pH/active ingredient

Q. Since acidic solutions contract the hair (close the cuticle), how does a pH of 7.0 cause the hair to swell?

Look at Fig. 20-324.bp.blogspot.com/.../HellaciousHair222.jpg

*pH of 7-neutral*pH of 5-hair*every step-tenfold change

pH of 7 is 100 times more alkaline than hair

*pure water is pH 7-can damage the hair-causes it to swell

Acid-balanced waves (used today)

*pH between 7.8-8.2

*not true acid (actually acid-balanced waves)

*process at room temperature

*process more quickly

*produces a firmer curl

FYI

*all acid waves have three components:

-permanent waving solution

-activator

-neutralizer

*activator tube contains GMTG

-must be added to the waving solution IMMEDIATELY before use

Just know…

-never mix until client is completely wrapped and

draping procedure is complete

-product begins to oxidize immediately

Q. What happens to the solution if it is mixed for 5 minutes prior to

the application?

www.hairfinder.com/info/perm-chart.gif

Read both Caution boxes pg. 575!!!!

EXothermic waves

*chemical reaction that produces heat

*heats up the solution and speeds up the processing time

*Permanent waving solution, activator and a neutralizer

Dryer

*contains thio (in cold waves)

*activator contains an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide)

*added to PW solution immediately before use

*causes a rapid release of

heat

*shortens processing timewww.cachebeauty.com/images/Zotos/feels_so_liv...

Endothermic waves

*absorbs heat from surroundings

*hooded dryer

*will not process at room temperature

* true acid waves

Ammonia-free waves

*very little odor

*can be very damaging

Thio-free waves

*not ATG

*still a thio compound

*marketed as damage-free

-not necessarily true

www.modernsalon.com/.../06-61ISO_Option.jpg

Low-pH waves

*never been popular

*very weak

*do not provide a firm curl

*usually marketed as a

body wave

www.life123.com/bm.pix/home-perm-blonde-curls..

Perm for colored-treated hair may not be safe on damaged or bleached hair

Semipermanent color puts a coating on the hair, making it more resistant

Permanent Wave Processing

*amount of processing is determined by the strength of the solution

Review Table 20-1(top of page)

Q. What will the result be if a weak solution is used on coarse hair?

Q. What will the result be if a strong formula is used on porous hair?

Q. If a plastic cap is not used or is not tight enough, what will be the end result of the PW?

*most of the processing takes place in the first 5-10 minutes

*additional time allows for the polypeptide chains to shift into

their new configuration

(hair takes the shape of the rod)

Fig. 20-33 (reason for not mixing solution before

use)

Overprocessed hair

* happens in the first 5-10 minutes

* Use a weaker solution

www.pgbeautyscience.com/.../Perm%203.jpg

www.hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com/images/p...

*thorough saturation

*apply solution slowly and repeatedly (ex. Denise K.)

Q. Explain what it is like to saturate resistant hair.

Resistant hair

*requires a stronger solution

www.hairflatiron.org/images/hair_cuticle_cell...

Overprocessed Hair

*thorough saturation with stronger solution=more disulfide bonds broken

*does not give more curl

*a properly processed PW should break and rebuild about 50%

of the disulfide bonds

*if too many disulfide bonds are broken, hair may not have

enough strength left to hold the desired curl

*weak hair=weak curl

*overprocessed hair

-weak curl

-completely straightblstb.msn.com/i/56/30C7CA44767B5C2164ED6D10E0...

*hair at scalp is stronger (healthier)

-curlier at the scalp

-straighter at the ends

*further processing will make it straighter/possibly break off

Underprocessed hair

*too few disulfide bonds were broken

*not sufficiently softened

*usually very weak curl/sometimes straight

*processing it more will make it curlier

Permanent Waving (Thio)Neutralization

*stops the action of the waving solution

*rebuilds the hair into its new curly form

www.sedu-hairstyle.net/images/perm-13.jpg

i.ehow.com/.../5157364/265110-main_Full.jpg

Neutralizers perform two functions:

1.waving solution is deactivated

2.disulfide bonds are rebuilt

*neutralizers are oxidizers

ADD: Also called “stabilizing lotion”

*chemical reaction

-oxidation

*hydrogen peroxide

*concentrations between 5 and 10 volume

FYI: the reason hair is lighter after a perm

Neutralization: Stage One

*first function of thio neutralizer is to deactivation, or neutralization, of any waving lotion left in the hair.

*called oxidation

*proper rinsing prior to neutralizer

*to avoid

-scalp irritation

-unwanted lightening

always rinse waving lotion for a full 5 minutes (add 2 minutes for long hair)knol.google.com/k/-/-/3a9e8hggiw4cz/pt0w3t/a.jpg

*blot the hair

-excess water reduces the effectiveness of the

neutralizer

*successful perms take time, patience, and expertise

*proper rinsing and blotting are important!!!

*rinse with warm water

*use gentle stream of water

*never apply pressure to the rods while rinsing

**start at bang area then temples

*thoroughly rinse the bottom rods

*rinse for time recommended by manufacturer

*smell the hair-if still smells, rinse until

odor is gone(full 5 minutes first, then longer if necessary)

*gently blot the hair with a dry towel, then wubbies

*check for excess moisture, prior to neutralizing

*adjust any rods that have come loose

*acidic liquid protein conditioner

-applied prior to neutralization

-dried 5 minutes

*beneficial to very damaged hair/strengthens hair

*always follow manufacturer’s directions

Neutralization: Stage Two

•rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the “extra”

hydrogen

*20-36

*side bonds are reformed to new shape as different pairs

To recap in layman's terms:

Waving solution softens and swells the hair to break the disulfide bonds…

Q. What would be the result if the perm rods were removed at this point and the hair shampooed?

The neutralizer rehardens the hair so it keeps the shape of the perm rod.

Preliminary Test Curls

*determine how client’s hair will react to a perm

*do if damaged

*uncertain about the results

(notice: only about 3 perm rods

placed in hair and processed)

cdn-write.demandstudios.com/.../60/9/20569.jpg

Tells you:

*correct processing time

*results you can expect

*curl results for the rod size and wrapping technique

Test Curls

*used to check the progress of the perm

Page 593-594 (procedure is the same as preliminary test curls, however test curls are done during the processing of a full perm to check progress)

www.metroasis.com/perm1.jpg

Permanent Waving Procedures

*wide variety (when combined)

*unlimited number of styling options

Basic perm wrap: we call it a “straight back perm wrap”

*all rods move in the same direction

*on equal-sized bases

*horizontal

*same length and width as the perm rod

Curvature perm wrap:

*movement curves within the sectioned-out panels

*follows the curvature of the head

*pie-shaped base sections

www.behindthechair.com/.../rszBasicPerm_orig.jpg

Bricklay perm wrap:

*offset from each other row by row

*prevents noticeable splits

*starting points affect the directional flow of the hair

www.metroasis.com/bricklay.jpg

Weave technique:

* zigzag partings

*blending between perm rods

*smooth transition from rolled areas to unrolled areas (partial perms)

Double-rod technique or

Piggyback wrap:

*two rods are used for one

strand of hair

*one on top of the other

*lower half of strand wrapped around one rod

hairstylist.up.seesaa.net/image/piggy20back.jpg

*upper half of same strand wrapped on a second rod and stacked on top

***same color tool used

*effective on long hair

Q. Why should the picks never be placed in the rods in this manner?

Spiral perm wrap:

*wrapped at an angle

*perpendicular to the length

of the rod

*uniform from scalp to ends

*for long hair

*conventional rods, bendable soft rods, and circle (loop) rods

can be used www.finishingtouchspa.com/images/perm.jpg

Stack perm

Toni and GuyTeamsmithy.blogspot.com

www.behindthechair.com/.../rszBasicPerm_orig.jpg

Partial Perms

* not entire head

* short hair

* use for hair on top

-sides and nape tapered

* volume and lift

•perimeter curls (smooth crown)

-has not been done for 30 years

Things to consider:

*smooth transition

-rolled to unrolled

*use larger tool for the last tool

*apply a protective barrier cream (thick conditioner) to the unrolled section

Root perm 11-15 perm rod wrap

farm1.static.flickr.com/230/481717912_a26d1ab... www.howtogetridofstuff.com/wp-content/uploads...

i100.photobucket.com/albums/m34/mbdg/process1.jpg

i100.photobucket.com/.../mbdg/hair_results.jpg

img150.imageshack.us/img150/8762/28948842094d...

Japanese modern

day twist on old idea.

Claims:•Smoothe

r•Looser•Curl starts farther down

www.clickthecity.com/.../CTC-1957-image6.jpg

Perms for Men

*texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance

*helps thin hair look fuller

*helps control cowlicks

*same techniques

fershur.com/.../2008/09/mcenroe-300x285.jpg

Safety Precautions for Permanent Waving

*protect client’s clothing-gown-water proof shampoo

cape-double drape

*do not give if had an allergic reaction to previous perm

*examine the scalp-skin abrasions-scalp disease

*do not perm if excessively damaged

-signs of breakage

*do not perm if treated with hydroxide relaxers

*test for metallic salts if possibility

*apply protective barrier cream

-hairline and ears

*do not dilute or add anything unless directed by

manufacturer

*keep out of client’s eyes

*always follow manufacturer’s directions

*wear gloves

*immediately replace cotton and towels when wet

*do not save any unopened, unused solutions

-chemicals change strength and effectiveness

***Always recommend to the client to wait two days (48 hours) before shampooing

-use professional shampoos and

conditions for chemically treated hair

Mrs. Mandato and Mrs. Kucas say:

Instruct the client to wait 2 days…if the client uses a shampoo or conditioner on their freshly permed hair that is not salon quality-regardless if it is acid-balanced (may contain waxes) the perm could relax…

Q. Who is responsible to re-perm the client’s hair if the perm relaxes?

Q. Who will pay for the second service, your time, and possibly the perm solution used?

Q. Do you want to take that risk?

Old textbook: recommended three days waiting period prior to a color service.

*some concern about scalp irritation and excessive relaxation

-Gee, do you think!

Mrs. M and Mrs. K say: wait one week, again for the same reason stated earlier.

Metallic salts

* home haircoloring products

*not compatible with permanent waving

Causes:

-uneven curls

-severe discoloration

-breakage

* men’s haircolors

*progressive haircolor

*Grecian Formula

Grayhairloss.com

To test for metallic salts:

*glass or plastic bowl

*mix 1 oz. 20 volume developer

with 20 drops of ammonia

*immerse 20 + strands of hair

*30 minutesen.ask-schwarzkopf.com/content/image_path/53/...

Results:No Salts *hair lightens slightly-proceed

If present: *hair lightens rapidly *may get hot *gives off unpleasant odor *Do not proceed!!!!

Add:Metallic dyes fade:

Silver-greenish cast

Lead-purple

Copper-turn red

Add:

Hair dyed with

Lead-lighten immediately

Silver-no reaction

Copper-boil and pull apart

Chemical Hair Relaxers

*rearranges curly hair into a straighter, smoother form

*thio relaxers and perms are exactly the same

*all break the disulfide bonds

i.ehow.com/.../4741408/106990-main_Full.jpg

Most common types of chemical relaxers are:

Thio (ATG)

Hydroxide

mp.hairboutique.com/.../rusk_anti_Curl2_350.jpg www.deepbrilliance.com/.../products/relaxer2.jpg

Extremely Curly Hair

*exists in all races

*grows in long twisted spirals, or coils

*thinnest and weakest at twists

*extra physical force

can break this area

www.hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com/images/p...

Thio Relaxers

*has a pH above 10 and a higher concentration of ATG than perms

*thicker

*higher viscosity

(resists flowing)

Read: Caution Boxi190.photobucket.com/.../539608.jpg

*break the disulfide bonds

-soften the hair

*after enough bonds have been broken, the hair is

straightened into its new shape

*relaxer is rinsed

*blotted

*neutralized

Thio Neutralization

*neutralizer is an oxidizing agent

*usually hydrogen peroxide

*rebuilds the disulfide bonds

www.nihonjinnopuraha.com/.../LP-before-after.jpg

Thio Relaxer Application

*steps are the same as hydroxide relaxers*neutralization procedure is

different*Relaxer may be applied with bowl and brush, applicator bottle, or the back of a hard rubber comb*different application for virgin

relaxers and relaxer retouch

*light shampoo before relaxer is optional

*perform analysis of hair and scalp

*Test for elasticity and porosity

*poor elasticity= do not perform service

Japanese Thermal Straighteners

*also called Thermal reconditioning or TR

*combines thio relaxer with flat ironing

*Each manufacturer has slightly different procedures

After hair is shampooed and conditioned: (many flat iron before straightener is applied)

*straightener is applied -distributed evenly

*processed until curl or frizz is reduced

*rinse thoroughly for about 10 minutes

ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sleekhair_2071_68204274

*condition and blow dry (completely dry!!!!!)

*flat iron each section-several passes of flat iron

for each section

article.wn.com

*then neutralize and blow dry

*service takes several hours (6-8 hours)

*not always appropriate for extremely curly hair or

some color-treated hair

*many manufacturers require certification to use their product

http://blog.myhairstylingtools.com/blog/2008/02/page/2/

http://knottyhairsalon.blogspot.com/2011/07/top-10-japanese-hair-straightening.html

Q. What is the current cost to have this process done?

Hydroxide Relaxers

*hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers

*very strong alkalis

*pH over 13.0

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Types:

•sodium hydroxide

•potassium hydroxide

•lithium hydroxide

•guanidine hydroxide

* swells the hair 2x

*not compatible with thio relaxers

*100 million times more alkaline (stronger) than hair

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*hydroxide relaxers break the disulfide bonds differently

*removes one atom of sulfur-converting it into a lanthionine bond-called lanthionization

*disulfide bonds broken permanently*can never be reformed

*unfit for PW

*will not hold a curlwww.surviving-hairloss.com/images/disulfide_b...

Types of Hydroxide Relaxers

*metal hydroxide relaxers

*sodium, potassium, lithium

*include: sodium hydroxide

potassium hydroxide

lithium hydroxide

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*all metal relaxers

-only one component

-no mixing

Lye-based Relaxers

*sodium hydroxide relaxers

-called lye relaxers

*oldest-most common

*used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories

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No-lye Relaxers

Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide

* “no mix-no lye”

*chemistry is identical to lye

*little difference in performance

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Guanidine hydroxide relaxers

* “no lye” relaxer

*two components

*mixed prior to use

*straightens hair completely

*less scalp irritationimages.teamsugar.com/.../P6120_hero.larger.jpg

*for sensitive scalps

*sold for home use

*swells hair more than hydroxide relaxers

*more drying

Low pH Relaxers

*ammonium sulfite/ammonium bisulfite

*mild alternative relaxers

*compatible with thio relaxers

*not compatible with hydroxide relaxers

*does not completely straighten extremely curly hair

*good for -color-treated-damaged-fine

Base and No-base Relaxers

*hydroxide relaxers

*Base cream-called protective base cream-oily cream-protects skin and scalp-applied prior to relaxer

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No-base relaxers

*contains base cream

*melts at body temperature

Added protection:-use base cream on hairline

and ears

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Strengths:

*Mild

~ fine hair

~ color-treated

~ damaged

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*Regular

~normal hair

~medium natural curl

*Super strength

~coarse hair

~extremely curly

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Periodic Strand Testing

*tells when sufficiently relaxed*stretch the strand

-see how fast curls are removed

*smooth strand to the scalp-using back of comb

-applicator brush -fingers

*if curl returns-continue processing

phenomenalhair.blogspot.com

Hydroxide Neutralization

*deactivates-neutralizes the alkaline residues left

*lowers pH of the hair and scalp

*does not involve oxidation or rebuilding disulfide bonds

*thorough rinsing needed first

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*rinsing alone does not deactivate the relaxer or restore the normal acidic pH

Q. What will the result be if a normal acidic level is not achieved?

*acids neutralize alkalis

*apply an acid-balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion

*neutralizes any remaining hydroxide ions (lowers pH)

Neutralizing shampoos:

-built-in pH indicator

-changes color when the ph has returned to normal

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Result of improper shampooing or too frequent applications

hairscammers.com

myweku.com

Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures

*Virgin hair application

-starts ¼”- ½” from scalp

-entire strand (not ends)~cold shaft

-scalp and ends last few minutes

*Relaxer retouch application

-starts ¼”- ½'” from scalp

-only to new growth

-scalp last few minutes

-previously treated hair, if additional

straightening -apply last few minutes

phrophro.com

*texturizing or retexturizing service uses hydroxide relaxers to reduce curl pattern

*product is gently combed through

*using large-toothed comb

*allows you to observe the curl pattern release and halt processing

Option A:

Normalizing lotions used after rinsing out relaxer, prior to shampooing

*conditioners

*acidic pH

*restores natural pH prior to shampooing

Option B:

Normalizing shampoo

*used after rinsing out the relaxer

*acidic shampoo

*restores pH of hair and scalp

*includes color signal-turns pink

*thorough consultation

-determine which type of relaxer by:

~hair type~condition~desired results

See Table 20-2 advantages and

disadvantages

Keratin Straightening Treatments

*also called smoothing treatments or Brazilian keratin treatments

*widely used

*contain silicone polymers and formalin*formalin releases formaldehyde gas when heated (known carcinogen)

sleekhair.com

http://www.prlog.org/11661817-new-jersey-beauty-school-students-perfect-popular-keratin-straightening-treatment.html

hairkeratin.info

http://qodusa.com/qod-brazilian-keratin-kits.shtml

Price: $315.84

•“formaldehyde free” contains formalin

•Keratin (protein) alone will not straighten hair

•Keratin straightening treatments work by fixing the keratin in place in a semipermanent manner

*they do not break the bonds

Procedure:

*treatment is applied

*hair is blown dry

*flat ironed at 450 degrees on narrow sections (each section ironed several times)

ehow.com

*takes 2 hours or longer

Read next paragraph

http://www.goldbook.ca/src/showasset?bid=19104&acid=1&title=Madrid%2520Hair%2520Salon%2520-%2520Beauty%2520Salons%2520in%2520Markham%2520%2520Ontario%2520-%2520Menu%2520-%2520Goldbook.ca

http://www.josemerat.com/salon/salon_b_2f.htm

*eliminates up to 95% of frizz and curl

*lasts 3-5 months

*not usually appropriate for extremely curly, tightly coiled hair.

*no certification/manufacturers do offer specialized training in

service and after care

Conduct a detailed consultation:

•So client will understand what to expect from the service

•Based upon*condition of hair*chemical history*degree of curl

Discuss the following:

•Hair history-all chemical treatments

•Home-care maintenance during the 3-day (72 hours) after service

*hair may not be shampooed for 3 days

*avoid getting moisture in the hair for 72 hours. If hair gets damp, blowdry immediately and flat iron with low heat setting

*client should wear hair down~no pins, ponytail

holders, or sunglasses to hold hair back

•determine the length and density of the hair before quoting

a price

Preconditioning before a Keratin Straightening

Treatment

•Equalize porosity

•Hair that is extremely porous, damaged, or very curly shampoo and deep condition prior to service

Permanent color/highlights and Keratin Straightening Treatments

•Client may have before treatment is applied

•Use regular/mild shampoo during the haircolor service

•Follow MD regarding use of clarifying shampoo before treatment (do not use on 70% or

more highlights)

Toners or Demi-gloss and Keratin Straightening

Treatments

•Done 3-5 days after the treatment

*prevents color loss*avoids wetting newly

straightened hair•Keratin straightening treatments do coat the hair, a strand test may show the product will not cover the existing cuticle coating to desired degree

Soft Curl Permanents

*does not straighten the hair

*makes curl larger and looser

*

*relaxed then wrapped on large perm rod

*ATG and oxidation neutralizer*can be called a “perm”, check for clarity

use of thio relaxer and thio perm

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Not in textbook FYI:

Procedure:

*two services

*extremely curly hair

*subsections-horizontal

*same length and width of rod

arajekiw.comule.com

*half-off base

*wrapped on large rods

*process with second thio solution

*after processing~rinse~blot~neutralize

Safety Precautions for Hair Relaxing and Curl Reforming

*perform~ hair analysis

~client consultation

*examine scalp for abrasions

*keep client records

*do not apply hydroxide relaxers over thio relaxers

*visa versa

*do not relaxer over metallic dye

*do not relax damaged hair

*do not shampoo prior to hydroxide relaxer

*hair and scalp completely dry and perspiration free prior to

hydroxide relaxer

*use protective base cream

*wear gloves

*protect client’s eyesChemical burn caused by sodium hydroxide relaxerwpcontent.answers.com/wikipedia/commons/thumb...

*solution in eyes1. flush with water2. refer to doctor

*no solution contact with ears, scalp, and skin

*perform strand test

*avoid scratching scalp

*do not overlap

*never use strong relaxer on fine or damaged hair

*do not remover more than 80% of natural curl

*thoroughly rinsefailure to do so will result in excessive skin irritation and

hair breakage

*use normalizing lotion

*use neutralizing shampoo with color indicator

*use conditioner and wide-toothed comb

*do not use hot irons or excessive heat

hairscammers.com

Texture services involve powerful chemicals

~handle with utmost caution

~act responsibly

~perfect your technique

~your services will be in great demand

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