Chapter 19

Exfoliation

Types

Exfoliation refers to peeling and shedding of horny ( outer ) layer of skin. Removing cell layers from skin surface can be used to treat a variety of cosmetic and medical problems

Mechanical exfoliants physical contact is used to scrape or bump

cells off skin. • examples: granular scrubs w/ almond meal or jojoba

beads or skin brushing machine

Benefits

Dead surface cell removals skin appears smoother extraction of clogged pores becomes easier brings lower-level cells to surface more

quickly and improves skin’s moisture allows for deeper delivery of moisturizers and

other treatments application of makeup is easier stimulates blood flow to skin surface

When to avoid mechanical exfoliation

Skin w/ visible capillaries indicates fragile blood vessels

Thin skin reddens easily

Older skin thin and bruises easily

When to avoid mechanical exfoliation

Skin being medically treated w/ tretinoin ( retinoic acid or Retin-A ),

Accutane, azelaic acid, adapalene ( Differin ), alphydroxy acid ( AHA ), or salicylic acid

Acne-prone skin inflamed papules and pustules

Microdermabrasion

One of the most recent advances in mechanical exfoliation Involves “ shooting” aluminum chloride,

corundum, or sodium chloride crystals to sandblast dead cells off the surface of the skin

Directed to the skin through a vacuum or air pulsating wand, abrade the stratum corneum

If you have ever watched an old building being cleaned by sandblasting, you’ll understand the basic concept of Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion has been used in Europe for many years

First introduced in the US during the mid-1990’s Procedure respects the integrity of the skin,

promotes even healing & complements most treatments programs

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion has been used to treat: Aging and sun-damaged skin Some types of acne scarring & acne Altered pigmentation Stretch marks Fine lines & wrinkles

Microdermabrasion Results may include:

Improved skin tone Even skin color Refined skin pores Fewer breakouts Healthy glow Renewed elasticity Diminished appearance of scarsDO NO PERFORM UNTIL EXTENSIVE TRAINING IS

COMPLETED

Chemical Exfoliants

In Chemical exfoliation dead skin cells or the intercellular “glue” that holds them together is dissolved by chemical agents such as alphahydroxy acids & enzymes

Superficial chemical exfoliants are gentle & used when mechanical exfoliation is not appropriate

Chemical ExfoliantsThese exfoliating procedures:

Enzyme peels• One enzyme often used: keratolytic

enzymes that speed up the breakdown of keratin ( the protein of skin )

• Enzymes often used in keratolytic enzyme peels are papain, derived from the juice of papaya fruit & pancreatin, derived from beef by- products

Chemical Exfoliants

There are 2 basic types of keratolytic enzyme peels

One name for this product is“Vegetal peelings” or gommage cream is applied ( paraffin or oatmeal ) before

steaming it dries in about seven minutes to form a

hardened crust crust is then massaged or rolled off the skin

Chemical Exfoliants

Second type & most popular is a Powdered enzyme This is mixed w/warm water immediately before

appliaction Stays soft during application; Produces a more even peeling of cell buildup and helps

dilate follicle openings Suitable for the following conditions

oily, clogged skin w/ blackheads, whiteheads, & minor acne breakouts

Chemical Exfoliants

Conditions Dry or dehydrated skin w/ cell buildup, flaking, & tight

dry surface Dull, lifeless-looking

• Skin condition actually has a tremendous buildup of dead cells that produce a slight gray color on the surface

Clients who desire smoother skin appearance or more even surface for makeup application

Alphahydroxy acids

Acids derived from plants, mostly fruits Glycolic acids Lactic acids

• Often grouped w/ keratolytic enzymes• Work by dissolving or loosening surface intercellular

cement ( the “glue” that holds cells together ) Used after 5% - 10% concentration gel, lotion,

or cream at home for two weeks• w/out home application, procedure may involve

increased discomfort & redness & irritation

CAUTION

Do not use brushing machines, scrubs, or any harsh mechanical peeling techniques on these skin types and conditions:

Skin with many visible capillariesThin skin that reddens easilyOlder skin that is thin and bruises easilySkin being medically treated with tretinoin ( retinoic acid or Retin-A), Accutane, azelaic acid, adapalene (differin ), alphahydrozy acid (AHA) , or salicylic acid (found in many common skin products)Acne-prone skin with inflamed papules and pustules