chapter 11 unit n2 provide manicure services. objectives at the end of this chapter you will be able...

Chapter 11

Unit N2 Provide manicure services

Objectives At the end of this chapter you will be able to:• maintain safe and effective methods of working

when providing manicure services• consult, plan and prepare for the manicure service,

demonstrating effective techniques • carry out manicure services, including paraffin wax,

hand masks, thermal mitts, exfoliation and warm oil, and dark, French and buffed finishes

• provide aftercare advice, including suitable tools, products, avoiding activities that may shorten lifespan of treatment, recommended homecare routines and time intervals between nail services.

Beauty Therapy Level 2

Key words 1

• Acetone• Agnail• Arthritis• Blue nails• Bruised nail• Buffing• Callous• Contra-actions • Contraindications• Corrugations

• COSHH• Dermatitis• Disinfection• Eczema• Effleurage• Eponychium• Fragilitas

unguium• French

manicure

• Hang nails• Hot oil• Hyperhydrosis• Hyponychium• Inspection• Leuconychia• Lunula• Mantle• Matrix• MSDS


Key words 2

• Nail bed• Nail shapes• Nail wall• Onycholysis• Onychophagy• Onychorrhexis• Palpate• Paraffin wax• Petrissage• Posture

• Psoriasis• Pterygium• Ringworm• Sanitisation• Scabies• Specialised

masks• Sterilisation• Warts• Whitlow


Introduction• Manicure is a popular service in beauty, hair and

nail salons. Offered as part of other services. • The word ‘manicure’ is from the Latin manus

(hand) and curo (care).• Purpose of manicure is to recognise common

nail disorders and diseases, provide a range of treatments to improve the condition of nails and hands and offer the client advice on nail care.

• Manicure includes filing and shaping nails, cuticle treatment, hand massage, nail polish application or buffing, conditioning treatment.

• Ideal treatment to refer client to other services and products.


Safe working practices• Ensure that the salon environment and work

area is clean and free from hazards.• There should be good lighting and ventilation.• Use appropriate seating.• Check all the equipment is clean and sterilised.• Check all the products are ready for the

manicure.• Ensure that both yourself and the client are

positioned comfortably.• Legal requirement for parent/guardian to be

present if the client is under 16.


Treatment times

Manicure with polish (including French)

40 minutes

Manicure without polish (buffed)

30 minutes

File and paint 35 minutes

Specialist hand and nail treatment

60 minutes


Products• All products should be in closed containers and

sealed appropriately.• Products include:- nail polish remover, cuticle massage cream,

cuticle remover- buffing paste, hand cream, nail strengtheners,

white pencil- nail polishes, base and top coat, ridge filler,

polish thinner, quick-dry spray- exfoliants, masks- nail glue, nail bleach.


Equipment• All equipment should be clean.• Where appropriate, all tools should be sterilised

or disposable:- nail scissors, cuticle knife, cuticle nippers, buffer,

hoof stick, nail brush, orange stick, spatula, emery board

- surgical spirit, jar of sanitising fluid, finger bowl, small receptacle, waste bin, thermal mitts, towels.


Consultation• Consult client to evaluate lifestyle, health, diet

and objectives for treatment.• Visual and manual assessment to include palms

and backs of both hands, cuticles and nails (their shape, colour and strength).

• Healthy nails are firm, flexible, smooth and slightly pink.

• Surrounding cuticle should be unbroken and flexible and not sticking to the nail plate.

• Check each time – nail and skin condition can change between treatments.


Nail health• Nail care such as buffing and massage will

increase blood supply to the nail bed. • Cells divide more quickly, so the nails grow more

quickly and increase in strength.• Cells divide at matrix and harden, moving

forward along grooves to form the nail.• Illness can influence nail growth.• Poor health or diet can cause nails to become

dry, brittle, soft, flexible, pale, discoloured or blue in colour.

• Cuticles may be dry, split and hard.


Damage to nails• Physical damage:

– A knock or blow to the nail bed can cause bruising. This can grow out to the free edge.

– Damage to the matrix may be temporary or permanent. Severe damage may result in loss of nail completely or a permanent ridge/split.

• Chemical damage:– Strong detergents, including excessive use of

nail polish remover, can cause drying of nail and cuticle.


Anatomy and physiology 1• Nail structure includes – nail bed, nail wall,

cuticle, nail fold, matrix, free edge, hyponychium, eponychium, lunula.

• Bones of the shoulder girdle – clavicle, scapula, humerus and sternum.

• Bones of the arm and hand – humerus, radius, ulna, carpals (triquetum, trapezium, trapezius, scaphoid, pisiform, hamate, lunate, capitate), metacarpals, phalanges.

• Muscles of the arm and hand – biceps, triceps, brachia radialis, flexors, extensors, supinator, thenar eminence, hypothenar eminence, mid palm group.


Anatomy and physiology 2• Arterial blood vessels of the arm and hand –

aorta, subclavian artery, axillary artery, brachial arter, radial artery, ulnar artery, deep and superficial palmar arches.

• Venous blood vessels of the arm and hand – palmar arch and plexus, radial vein, ulnar vein, median vein, brachial vein, basilic vein, cephalic vein, axillary vein, subclavian vein

• Lymphatic vessels of the arm and hand – follows venous blood circulation with nodes on inside of elbow and at arm pit which are axillary. Right arm collects by right lymphatic duct, left arm collects thoracic duct.


Anatomy and physiology 3• Types of joints – fixed (immovable, fibrous),

slightly moveable (cartilaginous joints) and freely moveable (synovial joints).

• Functions of bone – shape and support, protection, production of blood cells, calcium and mineral storage, muscle and tendon attachment, movement and locomotion.


Anatomy and physiology 4• Types of muscles – voluntary (striped or

striated), involuntary (smooth), cardiac muscle (heart tissue).

• Ligaments and tendons – tendons are the connective tissue ends of muscles, ligaments usually stabilise joints.

• Skin functions – sensation, vitamin D production, secretion, excretion, heat regulation, absorption, melanin production.


Contraindications• Contraindications restricting treatment: bruised

nails, bitten nails, arthritis, open cuts and wounds.

• Contraindications preventing treatment: swelling, pus or pain, ringworm (tinea), whitlow (paronychia/onychia), warts and verrucae, scabies (itch mite), severe eczema, severe psoriasis, severe dermatitis, onycholysis (nail separation).


Nail disorders• These conditions are treatable.• You need to know how to recognise them.• They include: - corrugations, split nails, brittle nails, flaky nails- 'blue’ nails, white spots- hard skin- hyperidrosis- hangnails - pterygium.


Hand and cuticle treatment• Shaping nails – oval, square and pointed.• Shortening nails – filing effectively and ensuring

bevelling at free edge.• Loosening adhesions on nail plate.• Removing ragged cuticles. • Conditioning nail and skin with paraffin and

warm oil treatments.• Removing dead skin cells with exfoliants and

masks.


Massage• Best part of the treatment.• Massage movements include:

– effleurage (deep and superficial stroking)– petrissage (kneading in circular movement)– tapotement – light tapping to stimulate

circulation.• Massage routine should flow easily from one

movement to the other with linking movements.• Use a massage ‘medium’, such as oil, cream,

lotion or talc, depending on outcome desired.


Polish 1• Buffing smoothes the nail cells on nail plate and

‘lightly’ abrades them to create a natural shine.• If using a nail treatment or strengthener, avoid

buffing as it prevents penetration of product.• Choose nail polish according to skin tone, event,

age, preference, lifestyle. • Prepare with base coat or ridge filler.• Protect with after-polish sealer or top coat.


Polish 2• Excess polish can be removed with tipped and

dipped orange sticks.• Repair smudges using careful pressure with a

dipped finger in nail polish remover.• French manicure – use white pencil under free

edge, or paint free edge white to follow curve of natural free edge.

• Male clients usually prefer shorter, square or gently rounded nails; unperfumed hand cream, deeper massage; buffed nails, or polishes that give matt finish.


Special treatments• Stimulate blood flow.• Remove dry dead skin cells.• Moisturise and soften skin.• Cleanse and lighten nails.• Relax client.• Treatments include paraffin wax, hand masks,

exfoliators, warm oil.• Heat can be applied through warm towels,

electrical equipment such as infra-red lamps, electric mitts, and warm oil or wax.


Contra-actions• Allergic reactions can be caused by perfumes,

lanolins, formaldehyde resin, pigments, solvents used in nail polishes.

• May occur around the nail itself or where the fingers touch the eyes or the skin around the face.

• Serious allergy can present as redness, irritation or swelling.

• Skin may become dry and scaly, blistered or infected with weeping sores.


Aftercare 1• Always check back to record card and ensure

client satisfaction during treatment.• Advise on appropriate products and tools to

enhance the treatment.• Regular rebooking of client will ensure best

outcome.• Maintaining good general health will enhance

quality of nails.


Aftercare 2• Advise client to:- dry hands thoroughly- protect hands by wearing washing-up gloves- refrain from using nails as tools- buff nails- massage in creams to promote circulation- use nail strengthener.

chapter 11 unit n2 provide manicure services. objectives at the end of this chapter you will be able...

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