Cos

ta A

zaha

rSp

ain

Cas

telló

n

N-340

N-234

A-7

Mijares

Rio

El Puerto

La Iglesueladel Cid

Mosqueruela

Linaresde Mora

Morade Rubielos

Rubielos de Mora

ForcallOlocaudel Rey

Mor

Cinctorres

Villafrancadel Cid

Torred’En Bes

Vistabelladel Maestrazgo

Atzeneta del Maestrat

Zucaina

Ludiente

Lucenadel Cid

CaudielBarracas

Jérica

Moncof

Altura

BorrioMontanejos

Almenara

la Pobla To

Algar de Palancia

Miranbell

Bejís

Cañada de Benatanduz

Vilarluengo

Portell de Morella

ArañuelToga

Vilafamés

Les Useres/Useras

Benasal

Palanques

Aresdel Mae

Viver

Navajas

Soneja

MascarellVillaviejade Nules

Chilches

Gátova

Casinos

Alcublas

Andilla

Villar del Arzobispo

Serra

Náquera

Fortanete

Monroyo

Culla

Cantavieja

Bordón

Castellote

Nogueruelas

Alcalá de la Selva

Olba

Valdelinares

l’Alcora

Onda

Segorbe Nules

Sagunto/Sagunt

Betxí

EslidaAín

la Vall d'Uixó

Villareal/Vila-re

Muela de Ares

Peñarroya

Peñagolosa

Salada581

1814

2024

1738

1738

1265Carrascal

Serrade

Espada

LA PLANA

L’ALCALATEN

EL ALTO PALANCIA

T E R U E L

V A L E N C I A

P

HighwayDual carriagewayNational road"A" Road"B" RoadLocal RoadRailwayParador (State-run hotel)Shrine-MonasteryCastleMonumentHistoric ruinsCavesPanoramic viewNature ReserveMarinaCamp siteGolf courseSpa

Cabo Oropesa

Punta Cap i Corb

Islas Columbretes

N-232

N-340

A-7

Bel

Alcoceber

El Grau

Las Fuentes

La Vallorta

Santuario de laVirgen de Vallivana

ella

Poblade Benifassa

Canet lo Roig Traiguera

La Jana

Sant Mateu Cálig

e sora

Vall d'Alba

fa

ol

Tírig

PeñíscolaSanta Magdalenade Pulpis

Alcalà de Xivert

Albocàsser

les Coves de Vinromá

Vilanovad’Alcolea

ornessa

Torreblanca

Benicasim/Benicàssim

Oropesa del Mar/Orpesa

Cervera de Maestre

Rosell San Rafael del Río

Alcanar

Ulldecona

Cabanes

Benlloch

Les Casesd’Alcanar

Sant Carlesde la Rápita

Freginals

SantaBárbara

Catí

Castell deCabres

s estre

l

Sant Jordi

Sarratella

Amposta

Vinaròs

Benicarló

Almazora/Almassora

Burriana

eal

CASTELLÓN DE LA PLANA/CASTELLÓ DE LA PLANA

CO

ST

A

AZ

AH

AR

MA

RM

ED

IT

ER

RÁ

NE

O

PARQUE NATURALPRAT DE CABANES -

TORREBLANCA

P. N. DESIERTODE LAS PALMAS

Pico Bartolo729

Serra

d’Irta

LA PLANA ALT

A

A BAIXA

EL MAESTR

AT

P

CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35Tel. 91 416 73 41 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2001

30 Km.150

N

T A R R A G O N A

Contents

Introduction 1Coastal routes 4

The North Coast 5The South Coast 11

Inland routesMorella and the Maestrazgo 13The hill country 17The springs 20

Castellón, capital of the plain 22Leisure & Entertainment 28Useful information 36

France

United Kingdom

Paris

London

Spain

Ireland

Dublin

Bay of Biscay

PortugalCosta

AzaharMadrid

Lisbon

Ceuta Melilla

Rabat

Canary IslandsMorocco

Mediterra

nean Sea

AtlanticOcean

1

IntroductionAs the Valencian Region’snorthernmost province,Castellón’s northern reachesand hinterland still show traces of the influenceexercised in the past byAragon and Catalonia. Its shoreline is one of sandybeaches interspersed withstretches of sheersided cliffs.

Yet what attracts visitors toCastellón as much as or evenmore than this broken coastalrelief, is the landscape ofstone, crags, castles andshrines (santuarios) thatlies in the interior, a legacyof medieval times.

With over 450,000 inhabitants,a surface area of 6,679 squarekilometres (approximately 2,578sq. miles) and a populationdensity of 67.97 inhabitants/sq.km, there is a very markedimbalance between the area’sfairly heavily populated coastalstrip and its very sparselypopulated hinterland. Most of

the bigger towns and cities aresituated on the coastal plain.Indeed, in the dry-farmingdistricts there are a good numberof towns of no more than100-200 inhabitants, and many anisolated masía (typical farmhouse)occupied by just a single family.

Peñíscola

2

Along the shoreline fromVinaròs to Almenara, and thejagged north-south dividetraversing the interior fromMorella to Segorbe, Castellónembraces a geography ofcontrasts, attributable to thegeological diversity of itsmountains and plains, and thenotable differences betweenthe coast and continentalinterior. Topographicallyspeaking, the region sits astridea prolongation of the IberianRange (Sistema Ibérico), at thepoint where this extendstowards the Mediterranean.As a result, Castellón is thesecond most mountainousprovince in Spain. Looking atthe map from south to north,the principal mountain chainsrun from the Espadán Range,the coastal mountains of theDesierto de las Palmas Rangeand the Irta Range to the greatinland massif of Penyagolosa,the province’s highest peak,and the foothills of themountains surroundingLa Tinença de Benifassà andEls Ports. While Castellón’sprincipal river is the Mijares,which rises in the GúdarMountain Range of Teruel, italso boasts other shorterwaterways, such as thePalancia, Monlleó, Cervol andSénia Rivers, and a series ofirregular watercourses orramblas, such as the Cerveraand La Viuda.

Castellón -rugged butnonetheless Mediterranean-enjoys an agreeabletemperature all year round,with the highest mountains inthe northern districts receivinga welcome sprinkling of snowin winter. The area’s coastalplain is home to a series ofmajor towns, which havegiven impetus to dynamicindustrial activity focusingon ceramic and tiles, footwearand food-processing plants,to say nothing of Castellón’straditional agricultural wealth,citrus farming in particular.As with the Valencian Regionas a whole, the province isbilingual, with both Spanishand Valencian being spoken(Valencian, resembles but isconsidered distinct fromCatalán).

There is good roadand rail access tothe province.It has no airport atpresent, though thereare plans to build oneat a site just 18 milesfrom Castellón itself. Visitorsseldom come by sea, since theregion’s ports are not listed onthe regular passenger shippingand ferry schedules. The area’smost important roads are theE-15 A-7 coastal motorway, theN-340 national road –whichalso follows the coast- and theN-232 and N-234 in the interior.

3

HistoricalBackground

Castellón’s prehistoric pastis held to be immenselyimportant. Evidence of thisperiod are the manyarchaeological sites and theprimitive shelters with rockpaintings that were discoveredover the course of the 20th

century and have since beengranted UNESCO WorldHeritage status. At a later pointin time, shortly preceding theChristian era, the Iberianpeople, a cultured race with adeveloped art form, occupiedheights and hilltops, until the

advent of Romanisation, a forcethat was to shape and structurethis territory through theconstruction of the Via Augusta,the road linking Rome with theCadiz coast. After these landshad been under Moorish swayfor hundreds of years, theprocess of reconquest beganin the 13th century under theAragonese King, James I, whoproceeded to incorporate theminto the new Kingdom ofValencia. In the early 18th

century, the Spanish monarchyimposed a centralist system andabrogated the medievaljurisdictional rights (fueros).It was not until 1982, the yearin which the Valencian RegionStatute of Autonomy waspassed, that the right of self-government was at lastrestored.

Carmelite Convent.Desierto de la Palmas (Benicàssim)

4

CoastalRoutesThe area known for touristpurposes as the “Costa Azahar”has a 120-kilometre (74-mile)strip of coastline where visitorscan enjoy both sea andmountain scenery. Thename, “azahar”, is takenfrom the numerousorange orchards that

perfume the air with thepervasive smell of orangeblossom in Spring. Lying justoff the Castellón coast is agroup of islands, theColumbrete Islands (NatureReserve information office,� 964 28 25 84). Of volcanic

origin, these scenic islandoutcrops have now beendeclared a land and sea NatureReserve, access to which hasbeen restricted to conservethe ecological balance.

For those interested in gettingto know the seaboard, thereare two basic routes.One explores the coastal fringeto the north of the capital,and the other follows thecoast southwards fromCastellón down to Almenara.

Islas Columbretes

Vinaròs

Benicarló

Peñíscola

Las Fuentes

Alcosseber

Alcalàde Xivert

Santa Magdalenade Pulpis

Benicàssim

Oropesa del MarVilafamés

Cabanes

Torreblanca

5

The North CoastTheir relative proximity meansthat the most popular beachesin the Plana Alta (Upper Plain)district tend to exert a directinfluence on the capital. For instance, its six kilometresof sandy beach has madeBenicàssim a traditionalholiday resort. In thebackground, the ring of hillsclimbing sharply away fromthe city’s outlying suburbs isa promise of better sea viewsto be had from above. Suchvantage points can be found inand around the Desierto de lasPalmas area and the SantaÁgueda Range, with its PicoBartolo (Mt. Bartolo; 2,390feet). Nowadays, this haven ofspiritual retreat and meditationfounded by the Carmelites

offers visitors the possibility ofexploring interesting hikingand cycling trails. The olddistillery that once producedCarmelite liqueur from thelocal aromatic plants has beenmoved to the town centre.At the end of the 19th andbeginning of the 20th centuries,a string of holiday villas-Modernist and Colonial instyle- rose along the Benicàssimseafront. Some, including theoldest, the Villa Pilar (1860),survive to this day. The town’ssingle most valuable heritageand indeed, the landmark ofits Old Quarter, is the Neo-classical-style parish church,which the scholar, FranciscoPérez Bayer, had built in the18th century. Other historicalsights include the San Vicentewatch tower, situated right on

Benicàssim

6

the beach, and the medievalMontornés Castle.

Leaving the town and headingnorth along the coast road,the route offers some veryspectacular ocean views. Onarriving in Oropesa del Mar, itis immediately obvious that thisis yet another town seeking tomeet the local tourist demand,although here the ambience issomewhat more select, withcomfortable residential estateshaving been built along theseafront. In recent years, the

local beaches of La Concha andMorro de Gos have experienceda major tourist boom.The enclosed nature of thesmall bay in which the townnestles gives this coastalsite a defensive and strategic

dimension, in line with thehistorical value of its Torredel Rey (torre; tower), and thelayout of its ancient Moorishcastle. The Sant Julià and DonaTowers complete the defensiveline on this section of the coast.Housed in the Parish Church ofthe Virgen de la Paciencia (OurLady of Patience) are leadingexamples of the tilework madein Alcora in the 18th century.The presence of a marina, aseries of secluded cliffside covesand good-sized sandy beachesserve to make Oropesa a

pleasant and attractiveseaside holiday resort.

Approximately sixkilometres down theN-340 is a secondaryroad that branches offto the left and headsinland towardsCabanes. Here a well-known Roman Archstands alongside asection of the oldRoman road, the VíaAugusta, constructedat the time of theRoman Empire to link

Rome and Cadiz. On thissidetrip, the town ofVilafamés affords the visitoran interesting chance toget a first-hand idea ofcontemporary culture.The Gallery of Modern Art(Museo Popular de ArteContemporáneo) housed in the

Oropesa del Mar

7

Batlle Palace, brings togethermany of the artists that havebreathed new life into Spanishpainting and sculpture.

Gallery of Modern Art(Museo Popular de ArteContemporáneo)� 964 32 91 52Diputación, 20. Vilafamés. FromMonday to Sunday, 11 a.m.-1 p.m.and 5 - 7 p.m.

On returning to the coast, thePrat de Cabanes wetlandscome into view. Formerlypastureland, the areahas now beenconverted into anature reserve thatserves as a nestingsite and stopoverpoint for prizedspecies of waterfowland waders. Theroute continuesonwards to the peaceand quiet ofTorreblanca, wherethe town Calvarymarks the site of thefirst primitivesettlement. It is fromthe this hillock that the townslowly grew and spreadtowards the shore, formingthe seaside suburb ofTorrenostra, a gatheringpoint for summerholidaymakers drawn tothe area’s sand and shinglebeaches.

The historical Maestrazgoarea, straddling the northernreaches of Castellón, is fringedby a sunlit shoreline, wheretowering mountains plungeand give way to tranquilbeaches. The towns andvillages situated along thisstretch of coast attract thehighest percentage of theprovince’s tourist trade andshare a common history withtheir hinterland cousins, ahistory written by the KnightsTemplar and Knights of theOrder of Montesa who

administered these lands inthe Middle Ages under a royalwrit from James II. This typeof landscape begins as fromAlcalà de Xivert -a townenjoying natural protectionin the form of the Serra d’Irta

Roman Arch. Cabanes

8

Range- and then extendsalong a wide floodplain thateventually reaches the seaat the tourist resorts ofLas Fuentes, Alcossebre andCap i Corb. Still following theN-340, after pausing to admirethe monumental bell tower atAlcalà de Xivert, and by nowwell within the boundariesof the Baix Maestrat (LowerMaestrazgo) district, onearrives at the turn-off toPeñíscola, the leading touristcentre in the Province ofCastellón. The castle, perchedon a high outcrop overlookingthe sea, conjures up imagesof the past, of knightsthat roamed and fortressbattlements that guarded theseMaestrazgo lands in bygonedays. Yet this unique heritage

gem, encased within theconfines of the small peninsulathat is also home to the OldQuarter, is only one part ofmodern-day Peñíscola. Outsidethe town walls, the generousoverflow of hotels, holiday flatsand residential estates stands ineloquent testimony to thegood reputation enjoyed bythis fashionable beach resort.The Aragonese, Pedro de Luna,who took the name ofBenedict XIII and styled himselfPapa (Pope) Luna, chosePeñíscola Castle as a retreatfrom which to fight for theunity of the Catholic Church.The fortress commands thehighest point of the peninsula.The parade ground is a superbbalcony from which to admirethe Mediterranean, and the

Castle of Pope Luna. Hermit’s Chapel. Peñíscola

Keep, a perfect platform fromwhich to contemplate the widesweep of the coast. In springand summer, this walledenclosure becomes the venuefor a Spanish Comedy FilmFestival and a Festival ofAncient and Baroque Music.

Castillo del Papa Luna� 964 48 00 21. Castillo s/n.(literally, unnumbered)Peñíscola. From Monday toSunday, 9 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.and 4 - 9:30 p.m.

Flanking the coast road toBenicarló is Peñíscola’simmense beach. Many yearsago these sands served as thebackdrop for the gallopingsteeds seen in the blockbustermovie portraying the life andtimes of El Cid and hislegendary deeds of valour.

In the centre of Benicarló isthe Church of Sant Bertomeu(St. Bartholomew’s), a Baroqueconstruction of extraordinarybeauty whose stone-workedfaçade and barley-sugar(salomónica) columns will comeas somewhat of a surprise.Its parish museum housesinteresting examples of Gothicart. The Chapel of SantGregori, situated on a nearbyhill, is where the townsfolkcongregate on 9th May everyyear to participate in atraditional romería (pilgrimageouting). The port’s importancedates back to the times ofPedro el Ceremonioso, who in1370 granted it the right tomarket wine exempt fromcertain tax levies. At present,a good amount of activitycentres on the town’sfishing fleet.

Church of Sant Bertomeu (St. Bartholomew’s). Benicarló

10

On the very threshold ofCatalonia stands Vinaròs,justly famed for its deliciousking prawns. The town lies inthe middle of a plain which ismarked by intense industrialand farming activity, and inwhich the only landmark ofany height is the Puig de laMisericordia, an elevationchosen by the early Iberiansas the site for one of theirsettlements. The Parish Churchof the Assumption (Asunción),and the Convents of Sant Agustíand Sant Francesc are the townsmost prestigious architecturalsights. The geographer, Madoz,was of the opinion that in thelast century Vinaròs had earnedthe right to the title of thearea’s principal shipbuilder.Holm oaks (encinas) broughthere from the hill countryfurther inland were hewnand fashioned into solidocean-going vessels.

Some time ago, the Bay ofBiscay’s dwindling supplyof sardines caused canningcompanies from the north ofSpain to relocate in Vinaròs,a move that led to aninteresting bond being forgedbetween the fishing traditionsof the North and theMediterranean. The carnivalcelebrations held in the secondfortnight in February areuniversally popular and givenprominent billing in theProvince’s festive calendar.It is here, in this “border town”lying just south of Tarragona,that the north coast routecomes to an end.

Alcossebre beach

11

The South CoastNot only is the Plana Baixa(Lower Plain) district a citrusfruit paradise, it is also theseat of an economic empirebuilt on the basis of a vigorousceramic and tile industry thathas been acclaimed both athome and abroad. The townof Burriana is famed as thehome of the Castellón orange.A visit to the Museo de laNaranja (Orange Museum) willgive visitors the chance to learnabout the system ofcultivation,

trade, transport andindustrialisation peculiar tocitrus farming. Adjoining theTown Hall, the Parish Church ofthe Saviour (Salvador) retainsthe duality of a traditionalRomanesque-style apse coupledwith the generalised Gothicstyle characteristic of thestructure as a whole.

Museo de la Naranja� 964 51 54 15.

Major, 10. Burriana.From Tuesday to Saturday,10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 4 - 8 p.m.Sundays and Public Holidays10 a.m. - 2 p.m.

From Burriana, take the roadthat departs from the southernside of the town and make forNules. Here, in the latter partof the 19th century, the townwalls were pulled down.Nevertheless, this evocation ofa fortified citadel can still be

enjoyed today in theborough of Mascarell,

situated one kilometre tothe north-east of Nules. Themedieval quarter that James Iordered built in Mascarell hassurvived intact. Among thesights to be seen in Nules,special mention should bemade of the Baroque-styleSoledad Chapel, raised inhonour of the town’s patronsaint. The arcaded main square(Plaza Mayor) features amodern church where anArchpriest officiates. A lovelyBotanical Garden graces the

Burriana

NulesMascarell

La Vall d’Uixó

Moncófa

Chilches

town centre. Nules has aquite stretch of beach, withbungalows and housesstrung out along the strand.

Six kilometres down the CS-225,on the lower flanks of theSierra Espadán Range, liesLa Vall d’Uixó, a town whoselife has largely been dictatedby the shoe industry. In the 17th

century, the existence of twodistinct urban areas led to thePlaza del Angel being laid outin the upper town, and the

Plaza de los Chorros (jets orfountains), in the lower town(poble de baix). Just twokilometres away, on the Sonejaroad, is a natural phenomenonof great interest, the Cuevas deSan José (St Joseph’s Caverns),where an underground riverfeatures one section that isnavigable and another that canbe explored on foot.

St. Joseph’s Caverns (Cuevas deSan José/Sant Josep)� 964 69 05 76. Carretera deSoneja. La Vall d’Uixó.Weekdays,11 a.m.-1 p.m. and 3 - 6 p.m.Sundays, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m.and 3 - 7:30 p.m.

This town’s natural outlet tothe sea is in Moncófa, whoseseafront promenade allows fora long stroll along the pebbledbeach, and if desired, thepossibility of continuing all theway to Chilches, anothercoastal village with excellentsandy beaches.

St. Joseph’s Cavern (Sant Josep). La Vall d’Uixó

Mansion. Burriana

12

13

InlandRoutesA few kilometres from the coast,the interior regions of theProvince of Castellón possess richnatural resources, as well as anartistic and cultural heritage ofthe first order. These are landsof heraldry and escutcheons,domains defended by defiantbattlements and watched over bychapels and monasteries. The lowpopulation density that socharacterises these inland routesenhances the inherent charm ofthe itineraries suggested below,i.e , the fortress city of Morella,Mt. Penyagolosa, the Mijaresriverside and environs, nature andwildlife in the Sierra EspadánRange, and the River Palanciawith its fresh-water springs.

Morella andthe Maestrazgo

Sant Mateu, capital of the BaixMaestrat district, rose andgrew on the plain, encircledby gnarled olive and othertrees associated withMediterranean culture.Under the three-hundred-yearmedieval hegemony exercisedby the Knights of the Orderof Montesa, the town was abustling handicrafts, livestockand market centre, exportingwool that was destined for theItalian looms in Florence. Themain square with its arcadesand Fuente del Ángel (AngelFountain) off to one side, is thestarting point, not only of anytour of the town, but also ofmany of the main streets with

Sant Mateu

Morella

Catí

Villafrancadel Cid

Aresdel Maestre

Culla

Tírig

Benassal

14

their noble houses andmansions. The church, accordedArchpriest status, echoes theRomanesque-Gothic dualitydepicted on its two doors.The lofty buttresses supportingthe central nave and theimposing hexagonal tower arethe first things that catch the eyeas one approaches the town.

Municipal Museum of Historyand Ethnology� 964 41 66 58. HistoriadorBetí, 6. Sant Mateu. FromTuesday to Saturday,10 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4 – 6 p.m.Sunday 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.Parish Museum of Religious Art(Museo Parroquial de ArteReligioso)� 964 41 66 58. Church(Iglesia arciprestal). Sant Mateu.From Tuesday to Sunday,

10 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4 – 6 p.m.Juan Cano FornerPaleontological Museum� 964 41 65 90. Arrabal deBarcelona, 23. Sant Mateu.From Monday to Sunday,10 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4 – 7 p.m.

Taking the N-232, and beforebeginning the climb to Morellavia the Querol Pass, one comesacross the Santuario de la Virgende Vallivana, (Shrine of theVirgin of Vallivana), the town’spatron saint. In a traditionharking back to 1673, every sixyears the people of Morella(morellanos) walk 22 kilometres(13 miles) to bear the image ofthe Virgin Mary to the town,as a token of gratitude for herhaving saved them from theplague. By the roadside standnumerous tiny chapels, where

Morella

15

pilgrims stop to utter a prayer orsupplication on their long six-yearly march, a prelude to theimpressive festivities that follow.The walled town of Morella,silhouetted haughtily on itshilltop, provides the travellerwith a truly monumental sight.It is, without a doubt, the mostinteresting Gothic town in theentire Valencian Region. Oneand a half miles of town wall,pierced by six gates, in which anumber of specialised museumshave been created, makeMorella’s invulnerability the stuff of legend. The GothicBasilica of Santa María (St. Mary’s) with its exceptionalchoirstalls is simply a “must”, as are the Convent of SanFrancisco (St. Francis), also

Gothic, and the Castle complex.Similarly, the Town Hall and oldjail, a stroll through the town’sterraced alleys and streets, theBlasco de Alagón arcades, around tour of the mountainalong the Paseo de la Alameda,and a visit to see the exteriorof the medieval Santa Llúciaaqueduct are all essential foranyone wishing to get to knowthis town of just under 3,000inhabitants.

Time of the Dinosaurs Exhibit,San Miguel Tower.� 964 17 30 32. Time of HistoryExhibit, Nevera Tower. Time ofImages Exhibit, Beneito Tower.Morella. From Tuesday to Sunday,11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4 - 7 p.m.(closes one hour earlier in winter).

Villafranca del Cid

16

Morella Church (IglesiaArciprestal). � 964 16 07 93.From Monday to Sunday, 12noon – 2 p.m. and 4 - 7 p.m.(closes one hour earlier inwinter).San Francisco Convent andCastle. � 964 17 30 32.From Monday to Sunday:summer, 10:30 a.m.- 7:30 p.m.;winter, 10:30 a.m.- 6:30 p.m.

Those wishing to get a betteridea of the Maestrazgo arerecommended to visit othertowns as well. A good examplewould be Villafranca del Cid,or Vilafranca, near the Teruelarea, which took its cottagetextile industry andtransformed it into a modernlingerie and knitwear sector.Within a short distance of thisactive town are: Ares delMaestre, ensconced in anincredible setting, expresslychosen by the Knights ofMontesa to command the

surrounding mountains andtableland; the health spas ofBenassal and Catí, known forthe medicinal properties oftheir mineral waters; Culla,with its well-preservedmedieval quarter; and, lowerdown, the village of Tirig, withone of the most importantnetworks of rock paintingsalong the Mediterranean coast.Known collectively asLa Valltorta, the areauncovered comprises 21different shelters containingLevant–style rock paintings(in Spain the Valencia/Alicantearea is termed the Levantregion) and has been declareda UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Valltorta Museum� 964 76 10 25Departure Pla de l’Om. Tirig.From Monday to Sunday,10 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m.Closes one hour earlierin winter.

Panoramic view. Ares del Maestre

Lucenadel Cid

L’Alcora

Les Useres/Useras

Vistabelladel Maestrazgo

Villareal/Vila-realOnda

Montanejos

EslidaAín

The hillcountry

Life in the L’Alcalaten district ispervaded at every turn by thepowerful geographical presenceof the Penyagolosa massif (a name derived from its localreputation as a “peña colosal”or collosal crag). En route liesthe town of Alcora, home andbirthplace of the tile industry.In the 18th century, the Countof Aranda founded a factory inhis domain and called it La MuyNoble and Artística Cerámica deAlcora. From 1727 onwards, thisfirm produced a refined rangeof porcelain and china whichenjoyed great success inEuropean Court circles.

Taking the CV-190 district road,one gets to Lucena del Cid, orLlucena, a town located on a

rocky promontory betweenthe Pedreñera river and ravine.The main square featuresarcades with widely spacedarches, ideal for holding theweekly open-air market, atwhich farmers from thesurrounding masías traditionallyused to meet on Sundays. To oneside of the square, the Churchof Our Lady of the Assumption(Nuestra Señora de la Asunción)houses a crypt that is turned intoan evocative stage setting forEaster Week tableaux depictingthe recumbent Christ.

On the last Friday in April, twelvetownsmen and a guide set out onfoot from the nearby town ofLes Useres. Dressed in black fromhead to toe, complete with hat,rosary and crook, and in uttersilence broken only by the strainsof psalms and hymns, they

18

complete a 30-kilometrepilgrimage to the Shrine ofSant Joan de Penyagolosa(St. John of Penyagolosa). Herethey spend the night and whenday dawns, retrace their steps.One week later, the people ofLucena del Cid go on another,altogether more social romeríato the hermitage site andChapel of Sant Miquel de lesTorrocelles (St. Michael’s). Theseare just some of the traditionsthat are kept alive in theseinland parts of Castellón.

The town closest to the massif isVistabella del Maestrazgo, whichalso marks the start of the pathleading to the hermitage siteand summit. The Sant Joan dePenyagolosa complex datesback to the Gothic period,when the monastery wasoriginally opened. Housed in

the Baroque-style church is theheavy standard belonging to thereligious brotherhood (cofradía)founded in 1653. It is threemetres (just under 10 ft.) high,though popular tradition has itthat it once measured six metres(nearly 20 ft ). The cells are nowaustere rooms that serve aslodgings for hikers and passingvisitors. The climb to the top ofMt. Penyagolosa, which ascendsto a height of 1,813 metres(5,900 ft.) above sea level, callsfor a two-hour hike at a steadypace. It is the second-highestpoint in the Valencian Region.

Further south, the River Mijarescarves out an attractive natureitinerary for travellers in searchof invigorating waters. Thisroute starts at a spot near thesea, in the town of Vila-real,and affords direct experienceof the sharp contrasts thatexist between coast andmountainside in Castellón.Vila-real, the province’s secondlargest town, was founded byJames I and takes pride in itsname (Vila-real; literally, royaltown). Some picturesque Gothicarches in the main square dateback to the town’s foundation.In another corner of this samesquare is the old Hostal del Rey(King’s Hostelry), a building thatwas originally donated by Pedroel Ceremonioso in the 14th

century and has sinceundergone numeroustransformations. The Church

Mijares River Canyon. Montanejos

19

of Sant Jaume (St. James’,again under the aegis of anArchpriest) and the Churchand burial place of St. PascualBailón are other sights ofinterest in the town.Taking the CV-20, the routeheads towards the firstmountains that are visiblefrom the coastal flats. Onda, apottery town of renown, nowemerges. Prominent in theforeground is the fabled Castleof the 300 Turrets, ringed bythe oldest part of the town,which has been declared anhistoric-artistic ensemble andpoint of cultural interest, sinceit faithfully represents thestandard Moorish layout thatserved as a template forValencian towns for so manycenturies. “Musts” on any tourof Onda include AlmudínSquare with its arcades, theSant Pere (St. Peter’s) Gate, theChurch of La Sangre (Blood)founded by the KnightsTemplar in the 13th centuryand a series of smaller chapelsdistributed throughout thetown’s various quarters.

Valencian Ceramics Museum(Museo Valenciano de laCerámica)� 964 77 18 40.Cervantes, 6. Onda. From Monday to Sunday, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 4 – 7 p.m.Natural Science Museum(Museo de Ciencias Naturalesde El Carmen)

� 964 60 07 30Ctra. de Tales, s/n. Onda.Summer, 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and3:30 - 8 p.m.; winter, 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 3:30 - 7 p.m.Closed from March to May.

Keeping to the same road, theCV-20, the River Mijares soonstarts to reveal its precipicesand canyons, geographicalphenomena which inMontanejos, the main townand genuine focal point in thelocality, assume impressivemonumental proportions. It isfor this reason that the areais a favourite among climbersseeking the challenge of aravine rock face. Summerholidaymakers come toMontanejos to take the watersand go for a stroll in the hills.The town has range of hotelaccommodation on offer, wide

Vila-real

20

enough to cater to spa-goersfrequenting the Fuente de losBaños at the HydrotherapyCentre, and to the hikers andmountaineers who rope upto tackle the Congosto deChillapájaros and MaimonaGorges (gargantas).

The Sierra Espadán NatureReserve, situated a little furthersouth, between the districts ofthe Upper (Alto) Mijares andPalancia River Valley, is anotherinland area well worth a visit.Its broken topography ishome to secludedvalleys, where someof theMediterraneanBasin’s best-preserved grovesof cork oaks survivein the company ofpristine springs. Eslidaand Aín are the mostattractive towns hereabouts.

The Springs

The Alto Palancia (UpperPalancia) district is boundedby the foothills of the Iberian,Espadán and Espina Ranges tothe north, and the Calderonaand Javalambre Ranges to thesouth. It forms the naturalpassage between the Aragonplateau and the Valencianseaboard. Segorbe, the districtcentre, lies on the N-234.The very name of the mainsquare belonging to the newpart of the town, the PlazaAgua Limpia (limpid or cleanwater), is in itself symbolic ofthe close relationship that thesites along this route havewith water. Fronting onto thissquare is the Town Hall, housedin the former Medinaceli DucalPalace, built in the 16th century.St Mary’s Cathedral (SantaMaría), originally Gothic instyle, underwent a thoroughtransformation in the 18th

Salto de la Novia (Bride’s Falls). Navajas

SegorbeAltura

Navajas

Viver

Jérica

21

century, which left it with itspresent Neo-classical look.Through the main door lies theentrance to the cloister, whichboasts an interesting uppergallery. Leading off from thisarea, with its peaceful andsoothing atmosphere, areseven small chapels. TheCathedral is home to twocultural treasures, namely, theChapter Hall gallery alongwhich the portraits of theSegorbe bishops are hung andthe so-called Compromise ofCaspe Codex in the archives.Outside the town proper, theclue to Segorbe’s origins are tobe found in the hilltop ruins ofthe Fuerte de la Estrella(Star Castle). Other points tosee are the Botxí and PrisonTowers -vestiges of the oldtown wall- the aqueductarches and the museums.

Cathedral Museum (MuseoCatedralicio).� 964 13 20 20Santa María, 1. Segorbe.From Tuesday to Sunday,

11 a.m.-2 p.m. Visits can bearranged by calling on� 964 71 32 54Archaeological andEthnological Museum (Museode Arqueología and Etnología)� 964 13 20 20. Colón, 98.Segorbe. Winter: Sundays,11 a.m.-1 p.m. Summer: Thursdays,11 a.m.-1 p.m.; Saturdays,11 a.m.-1 p.m. and 5 - 7 p.m.;Sundays, 11 a.m.-1 p.m.

Three kilometres from Segorbeis the town of Altura, site ofthe ruins of the Cartuja de laVall de Crist, a monasteryfounded by the Crown ofAragon. Restoration work ismaking it possible, in part, torecover the former splendourof the archaeological site.Altura is also home to anotherpopular spiritual landmark, theShrine of the Holy Cave (CuevaSanta). Indeed, the image,situated in a cave 20 metres(65 ft.) below ground level,represents the patron saint ofall Spanish potholers.

Segorbe

Navajas is a traditional summerholiday resort. An elm plantedin the main square in 1636 bythe justicia, or governor andkeeper of the peace, RoquePastor, symbolises threehundred and fifty years ofindependent municipalexistence. Numerous springs,brooks and cascades dot thecourse of the River Palancia.One of these, known as theSalto de la Novia (Bride’s Falls),becomes a bewitching settingfor concerts on summer nights.Further on, Jérica, with itsMudejar-style tower (Mudéjarbeing the term describingMoslem work executed underChristian rule), is a foretaste ofthe first examples of Mudejarart that were to spreadthroughout Aragon. Thisitinerary draws to a close inthe town of Viver, a prizedholiday destination thanksto the fifty or so naturalfountains, some medicinal,that await the visitor.

Castellón,Capital of thePlain (La Plana)Castellón is a city closely tied tothe traditional farming worldthat sprang up early in the 20th

century, in the wake of theeconomic euphoria triggeredby the profits to be made fromfarming and exporting citrusfruit. Decades later, Castellónwould still continue to expandas a result of its fast developingceramics and petrochemicalsectors. Now, however, it findsitself at a crossroads, facedwith the prospect of in-depthretrenchment andrestructuring. Over 25% of theprovince’s entire populationlive in this one city.

A visit to Castellón shoulddoubtless begin in the PlazaMayor, a pedestrian precinctpresided over by the El Fadrí (1)bell tower (el fadrí; “single” or“loner”), so dubbed because,despite forming part of the

Cathedral Churchcomplex, it was built asa separate entity. Thiseight-sided, Tuscan-style, 190-foot tower isthe city’s landmark, itsbells tolling the hoursand heralding eventsof great importance.Normally closed to thepublic, it is only visited

Cathedral Church of Santa María (St. Mary’s)

23

on the occasion of the Marchfestivities held in honour ofthe city’s patron saint, MaryMagdalene. The CathedralChurch of Santa María(St. Mary’s) (2) has beenreconstructed in Gothic style,the reason being that, apartfrom the main and two of theside doors, the whole buildingwas razed to the groundduring the Spanish Civil War.Displayed inside are a numberof anonymous canvases, apainting attributed to Ribalta,a carved image of the VirginMary (la Purísima) by JoséEsteve and a fine collectionof gold- and silverwork.

Opposite the church complexstands the Ayuntamiento(City Hall) (3), constructed in the18th century in the Tuscan styleand graced with a series of eye-catching arcades that providethe perfect place to meetand chat. It is by no meansextremely large, yet its hallsand passageways have enoughspace to exhibit an interestingcollection of paintings by thecity’s most prominent artists,such as Porcar, Agrasot,Doménech, Viciano, Benlliureand the like. This square has afurther ornamental feature: acontemporary sculpture by theValencian, Manuel Boix,popularised in recent yearsunder the name, El Narcís(Narcissus). It represents a hand

picking up a ball, while beingreflected in a pool, and is atribute to the traditional localsport of pelota valenciana.

Crossing the nearby Avenidadel Rey Jaime brings one to thecity’s main area of greenery,Ribalta Park (4), which isflanked by attractive examplesof Modernist buildings as wellas the railway station. It isin this part of the city thatCastellón has undergone itsmost radical face-lift, with therailway lines being re-laid

Ribalta Park

City Hall

City Map of Castellón

1 El Fadri2 Cathedral Church of Santa

María (St. Mary´s)3 City Hall4 Ribalta Park5 Shrine of the Virgin of Lledó6 Chapel of La Magdalena

(Mary Magdalene)7 Pinar Park8 Planetarium9 Principal Theatre

10 Modern Art Gallery11 Fine Arts Museum

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CARTOGRAFÍA GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35Tel. 914167341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2001

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below ground, in order toprevent the present layoutfrom being partitioned by aseries of level crossings. In thepark, a series of paths trace ageometrical pattern and finallyconverge at the centre, with itsstatue of the artist, Ribalta.Here too, a bandstand, pond,flowers and obeliskcommemorating the CarlistWars mark out an area ofcollective memory, shaded bya number of impressively aged

trees. Along with the Plaza deIndependencia and Plaza deTetuán, the park was officiallydeclared of artistic interestin 1981.

From the Plaza de MaríaAgustina, take the Avenida delLidón to get to the Santuariode la Virgen de Lledó (Shrine ofthe Virgin of Lledó) (5), patronsaint of Castellón. According totradition, in 1366 the VirginMary appeared to a shepherdat a point some two kilometresoutside the town. The shrine’sinterior provides the perfectatmosphere for quietintrospection, and speakseloquently of the local fervoursurrounding the figure of theVirgin. A tile mosaic in one ofthe aisles describes thedifferent local chapels that plotthe route of an old Romanroad known as El Caminás.

Some distance away, on theopposite side of the nationalroad and motorway, is anotherreligious site. This is theChapel of La Magdalena (Mary Magdalene) (6), whichsits atop a hill marking the spotwhere Castellón was first settled.In March, a popular romería takesplace here to commemorate thesettlers’ decision to moved fromthis hillside to the new townon the plain. Visible behindthe chapel are the survivingremains of the Moorish castle.

Plaza del Teatro

Shrine of the Virgin of Lledó

Castellón feels a specialattachment to the sea, to whichone gets via a broad avenue.Pinar Park (7), the Planetarium (8),the long seafront promenade,the Plaza del Mar –a new leisurearea facing the marina- thegood-sized harbour facilities,the town’s beaches and newresidential estates, all providevisitors with the chance ofenjoying wide open spacescooled by refreshing sea breezes.

The city’s cultural future is inthe process of becoming areality, thanks to an ambitiousscheme which has seen theTeatro Principal (Theatre) (9)salvaged, refurbished andrefitted with a structure typicalof the exquisite theatres of the19th century, and the Espai d’ArtContemporani (Gallery ofModern Art) (10) inauguratedas a venue for avant-gardeinternational art exhibitions.Also projected are theconstruction of a new ConcertHall, capable of doubling as aConvention Centre, and there-opening of the Museo

de Bellas Artes (Fine ArtsMuseum) (11) in a space thathas been remodelled to dojustice to the fine classicalpaintings stored in itspermanent collection.

Gallery of Modern Art (Espaid’Art Contemporani - EAC)� 964 72 35 40. Prim, s/n.Castellón. From Tuesday toSunday,11 a.m.- 8 p.m.Fine Arts Museum (Museo deBellas Artes)� 964 35 96 00, ext. 711.Avenida Hermanos Bou s/n.Castellón. Winter, fromMonday to Friday, 10 a.m.-2p.m. and 4 - 6 p.m. Summer,from Monday to Friday,9 a.m.-2 p.m. All year round:Saturdays, 10 a.m. - 12.30 p.m.Municipal EthnologicalMuseum (Museu Municipald’Etnologia).� 964 22 04 08. Chapel ofSant Jaume de Fadrell.Castellón. From Monday toSunday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m.

Monument to King James

Leisure & entertainmentSports

Scattered along the length ofthe Province of Castellón’sshoreline, seven marinas, aswell as port and nauticalfacilities of all kinds, offervisitors the possibility of takingfull advantage of the sea,whether as a Mecca forwatersports or merely as animmense scenic arena tospend time in a leisurely andenjoyable way. The marinas arebased in the towns of Vinaròs,Benicarló, Peñíscola,Alcossebre, Oropesa del Mar,Castellón and Burriana.In many instances, they sharefacilities with fishing harbours,where the daily docksideauction, with its competingbids and freshly caught fish,provides a true spectacle.

The combination of suchan infrastructure and thecomplementary facilitiesavailable to beachgoers ona good number of beaches,especially those entitled tofly the European Blue Flag(the official guarantee ofenvironmental quality), meansone thing, namely, that onthe Castellón coast, sailing,windsurfing, jet skiing, fishing,water-skiing, scuba diving,rowing, as well as competitionsand regattas, are all well withinthe reach of travellers comingto enjoy this part of the world.

The good weather andavailability of suitable facilitiesmake the Costa Azahar anattractive destination for allsports lovers. Golfers can choosefrom any of three courses alongthe coast. The Costa de AzaharGolf Club is located in the greenzone of Castellon’s port area andhas a team of instructors gearedto teaching learners. TheMediterráneo Country Club (Clubde Campo), in Borriol, also has

Aquarama aquapark. Benicàssim

Marina. Benicarló

28

modern facilities and offersprivate classes for those wishingto perfect their game. The sameservice is provided by thePanorámica Golf Club, inSan Jorge, just a littlefurther to the north.

For enthusiasts of aerial sports,such as hang-gliding andparachuting, there is theAeroclub de Castellón� 964 28 35 21 and964 28 01 39, basedat Grau de Castellón, onthe capital’s seafront.

Culture

Summer is the ideal time of theyear to enjoy open-air culturalevents. In August, the Castle ofPope Luna in Peñíscola comesalive with attractive recitalsforming part of the Ancientand Baroque Music Festival,as well as a series of plays andstage productions. Some weeksprior to this, in June, Peñíscolaplays host to the InternationalComedy Film Festival.

In another seaside town,Benicàssim, two music datesmight just be suggested. InAugust, the most radicallyalternative and non-commercialpop groups –both Spanish andforeign- gather in this beachresort over a period of severaldays in a real celebration ofrhythm and sound. Within thespace of a few years, theInternational Indyrock Festival(Festival Internacional deBenìcassim -FIB) has managedto work its way into the selectgroup of summer festivals thatare a firm favourite with youngaudiences. The other musicdate is in September. This, theFrancisco Tárrega InternationalGuitar Competition, is a majorevent drawing contestantsfrom all around the world.

The end of summer is the timechosen by Vila-real to offer aninternational festival designed topresent traditional folk dances,

Golf

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whilst a few months earlier,in May, the entire town becomesthe setting for street theatre.

Other leisure time opportunities,particularly for children, are tobe found at the CastellónPlanetarium � 964 28 25 84,opened in 1991 near Pinarbeach, with permanentexhibitions and daily showsprojected onto the artificialnight sky in the dome. A verydifferent scenario is the waterextravaganza to be enjoyed atthe Aquarama aquapark� 964 30 33 21 in theBenicàssim area, or the40-minute boat trip along thesubterranean waterways ofSt. Joseph’s Caverns (Cuevas deSant Josep; � 964 69 05 76at La Vall d’Uixó. The Torre delRey (King’s Tower) in Oropesa� 964 31 22 41 is yet anotherof the Costa Azahar’s manyattractions.

Nightlife

For most part of the yearCastellón nightlife tends to

centre on fashionable clubs andbars where people meet, chatand listen to music over a drink.But with the arrival of the goodweather, and the summermonths in particular, the “scene”moves to the seaside, to thediscothèques and pubs situatedon the Benicàssim and Burrianabeachfronts and Castellóndockside. One of the liveliestareas in Benicàssim is Las Villas, astretch of coast lined by some ofthe loveliest and oldest of thetown’s summer houses, a few ofwhich have now been convertedinto night spots. Along thebeaches, both in Castellón andin the neighbouring towns,chiringuitos tend to spring up;these are temporary side-walk orbeach bars where one can sit outand enjoy a drink in the open air.Discothèques and music venuesfill to overflowing with crowds ofyoung pleasure-seekers readyto dance the night away.

Fiestas

Castellón’s fiesta calendar is anintriguing balance betweentraditional romería-style

Planetarium. Castellón

Peñíscola

30

pilgrimages, inspired by areligious outlook on life, andfestive celebrations that are agenuine explosion of vitality, funand gaiety. The first event in theyear takes place in mid-January,with the Feast of San AntonioAbad (St. Anthony Abbot), the so-called Santantonà, which involvesthe lighting of bonfires, troupesprancing and masquerading asdemons, and street enactments ofand about the saint’s life, etc.The most spectacular bonfires areto be found in Forcall, Vilanovad’Alcolea, Borriol and Todolella,though it must be said thatalmost all the inland townscelebrate their own fiestaduring this period.

The most popular celebration isheld in Castellón itself, as fromthe third Saturday in Lent. Theseare the fiestas in honour of MaryMagdalene, marking the city’ssecond foundation, when it wasmoved to the plain from itsoriginal location on Magdalenahill, site of the Chapel of thesame name to which thetownsfolk make their pilgrimage.The romería de les Canyes

(canyes: cane rods adorned withgreen ribbon), a pilgrimage tothe hermitage of St. MaryMagdalene, and the procession ofles Gaiates (richly garlanded andilluminated floats) revive legendsand myths that have come toform an integral part of the localimagination. Groups of fiesta-lovers (colles) gather and draw upspecial programmes to make thefiesta bigger and better every year.

The Fallas (from the Latin“facula” or “fax”, meaningtorch), a typical celebration foundthroughout the Valencian Region,which consists of constructinghuge cardboard tableaux andsetting these alight on the nightof 19th March (St. Joseph’s Day),has its followers in Castellón. Inthis regard, special mention mustbe made of the towns of La Valld’Uixó, Benicarló and Burriana,which at this time of year are ariot of exploding crackers andfireworks. However, thepilgrimage season continues allthe while. On the last Fridayin April, twelve pilgrims and aguide leave the small town of

La Santantonà. Forcall

31

32

Les Useres and make for theMonastery of Sant Joan dePenyagolosa, there to do penanceand return the following dayafter trudging many a mile in asilence broken only by hymnsinging. Some weeks later, in Catí,at four in the morning on thefirst Saturday in May, ancientreligious airs are sung, callingon the townsfolk to make thepilgrimage to Sant Pere deCastellfort (St.Peter’s), clothed inflowing black capes. During thecourse of the year, well-attended

romerías of this nature departfrom over fifty towns and villagesto churches and chapels linked totheir religious past. The Morellaromería to the Virgin of Vallivana,normally held on the firstSaturday in May, changes everysix years (el Sexeni), when, duringthe second fortnight in August,the Virgin is borne aloft toMorella and the town’s streetsand building frontages arebedecked with thousands ofrainbow-coloured streamers.The year preceding the Sexeniis marked by the holding ofl’Annunci, a splendid occasionin its own right, when theforthcoming six-yearly fiesta isformally announced. On the lastSunday in April, anotherimportant pilgrimage takes place,this time from Altura to theVirgin of the Holy Cave (CuevaSanta). Curiously, this samemountainside church receives thetownsfolk of Jérica in Septemberand those of Segorbe in October.January too has its romerías, e.g.,on 20th January the peopleof Vinaròs take the relic ofSt. Sebastian from the parishchurch to the chapel crowningthe summit of El Puig.

There is hardly any town orvillage in the province thatdoes not celebrate its localfiesta with bullfights, dances,processions and a chanceto sample the best localspecialities.

Rush figures

Segorbe pottery

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Shopping and Handicrafts

Without doubt, ceramic andcloth handicrafts are the twoactivities that enjoy the longesttradition in the towns andvillages of Castellón. L’Alcora,Traiguera, Onda, Ribesalbes,La Vall d’Uixó and Segorbehave been the main source ofskilled potters for hundreds ofyears. The textile tradition isparticularly strong in Morella,where the local looms serveto revive a style of weavingreminiscent of a time when thissingular craft was at thepinnacle of its splendour. Othertowns, especially those situatedin the Palancia Valley, turncarpentry and woodwork intoa genuine art form. In addition,the wickerwork of Benassaland the esparto grass serón-and capazo-type baskets ofCastellnovo make it possiblefor the traveller to acquiretraditional items made with the wisdom of old.

In another verydifferent sphere -thatof farming and farmproduce- drivers onsome routes shouldkeep an eye out forroadside stalls sellinglocally-grown citrusfruit, as well as thetempting prospect ofthe home-made honeyand typical local

sweetmeats and pastries onsale at traditional shops.

Local Cuisine

Castellón’s twin nature isreflected in the two differentkinds of menus to be found inthe province’s cuisine, dependingupon whether one is on thecoast or inland. The day’s catchprovides seaside towns withinfinite possibilities. In Vinaròs,red mullet (salmonetes), Norwaylobster (cigalas), shrimp(gambas)and king prawns

Paella

Oranges

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(langostinos) are the mainattractions among themouthwatering range of foodson offer, with pride of placegoing to mixed seafood platters -whether boiled or fried(mariscada), stewed (zarzuelade pescado) or grilled(parrillada)- charcoal-grilledsardines, and an endless varietyof fish and seafood dishes.

Rice dishes, particularly paella,in its traditional meat or mixedchicken-and-shellfish versions,is another “must”. Otherrice-based variations are alsopossible. For instance, there isarroz a banda (rice cooked inthe water used for the fish, butserved as a separate dish),el caldoso, al horno (oven-baked),con verduras (with vegetables)and the like.Typical in Castellón’sfestive cuisine are the coques(pizza-style bases), generally

open, with a filling of tomatoes,vegetables, onions, etc.

As the coastal geographygradually gives way to themountainous interior, local meatand farm produce begin toassume an ever more markedpresence. In the Maestrazgo,charcoal grilled meat, such asrabbit (conejo) and partridge(perdiz), cured ham and jerky(cecina), home-made cheeses,preceded by starters such as sopamorellana and sopa forcallana,will satisfy the traveller’s hunger.A further staple of the inlandcuisine are the so-called ollas,a vegetable (mainly greens andlegumes) and meat casserole.Among the desserts, fulladvantage is taken of the qualityof the local cattle and orchardsto prepare cuajada (rennetpudding), flan de almendras(cream caramel with almonds)

Benicàssim

and requesón (cottage-stylecheese) with honey, along withthe many varieties of sweetmeatsand pastries, a blend of Moorishheritage and Christian traditions.

Further south, the excellentquality of the spring watermakes the district olla adelicious and exquisite dish.Roast lamb and rabbit in thymeare other possible entrées, andfor dessert, there are sweetcherries (cerezas), loquats(nísperos) or persimmon(caquis), which grow in the leeof the hillsides, protected fromthe wind and biting cold.

The Mediterranean market-garden sector in the Provinceof Castellón also producesexceptional fruit (e.g., the localvarieties of citrus that havebecome famous around theworld) and vegetables,the Benicarló artichoke(alcachofa) in particular.

Accomodation

Ranked by quality, hotelaccommodation in theCastellón area ranges frommedium to medium-high,with over 14,000 bedsavailable. The greatest singleconcentration of guestaccommodation is to befound in Peñíscola, followedby Benicàssim and Castellónitself. For those who prefercamping, camp sites haveplace for over 25,000. Spread throughout theprovince are some 6,700holiday flats, with a capacity to sleep 35,000.In the interior, Castellón alsohas a sizeable range of ruralaccommodation, as is evidentfrom the more than onehundred hotels, hostels andcountry cottages on offer.In addition, there is a TouristParador (state-run hotel)in Benicarló.

Benicarló Parador

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USEFUL INFORMATIONInternational Dialling Code: � 34Tourist InformationTurespaña � 901 300 600www.tourspain.esCosta Azahar Provincial TouristBoard � 964 35 98 83 Tourist Info Castellón � 964 35 86 88Castellón Municipal TouristInformation Office� 964 06 93 33Tourist Info Alcossebre� 964 41 22 05Benicàssim Municipal TouristInformation Office� 964 30 09 62Benicarló Tourist Info� 964 47 31 80Burriana Tourist Info� 964 57 07 53Morella Tourist Info� 964 17 30 32Moncófa Tourist Info� 964 58 85 57Montanejos Tourist Info� 964 13 11 53Navajas Tourist Info � 964 71 39 13Oropesa Tourist Info� 964 31 22 41Beach office � 964 76 66 12Peñíscola Tourist Info� 964 48 02 08Sant Mateu Tourist Info� 964 41 66 58Segorbe Tourist Info� 964 71 32 54

Vilafranca Tourist Info� 964 44 14 32Torreblanca Municipal TouristInformation Office� 964 42 12 12Vinaròs Tourist Info� 964 45 33 34Viver Municipal TouristInformation Office� 964 14 10 06

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERSCastellón Cultural Planning Board(Proyecto Castelló Cutural)� 964 72 36 05Emergencies � 112Renfe (Spanish Rail)� 902 24 02 02Autos Mediterráneo� 964 26 09 95Radio Taxi Castelló� 964 22 74 74Tele Taxi � 964 25 46 46Traffic: Road & Highwayinformation � 900 12 35 05

TOURIST PARADORS(State-run hotels)Central booking office:C/ Requena, 3. 28013-Madrid� 91 516 66 66Fax 91 516 66 57www.parador.es

Benicarló ParadorAvda. Papa Luna, 5� 964 47 01 00Fax 964 47 09 34

SPANISH TOURIST OFFICES ABROADCanada. TorontoTourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2� 1416/ 961 31 31Fax: 1416/ 961 19 92e-mail: toronto@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.toronto.on.caGreat Britain. LondonSpanish Tourist Office22-23 Manchester SquareLONDON W1M 5AP� 44027/486 80 77Fax: 44027/486 80 34e-mail: londres@tourspain.eswww.uk.tourspain.eswww.tourspain.co.ukJapan. TokyoTourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F 3-1-10 ToranomonMinato-Ku. TOKYO-105� 813/ 34 32 61 41Fax: 813/ 34 32 61 44e-mail: tokio@tourspain.eswww.spaintour.comRussia. MoscowSpanish Tourist OfficeTverskaya - 16/2 Business Center“Galería Aktor” 6º floorMOSCÚ 103009� 7095/ 935 83 99Fax: 7095/ 935 83 96e-mail: moscu@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.ruSingapore. SingaporeSpanish Tourist Office541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower# 09-04 238881 SINGAPORE� 657/ 37 30 08,Fax: 657/ 37 31 73e-mail: singapore@tourspain.esUnited States of AmericaLos ÁngelesTourist Office of Spain8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 960BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211� 1323/ 658 71 95Fax: 1323/ 658 10 61e-mail: losangeles@tourspain.esChicagoTourist Office of SpainWater Tower Place, Suite 915 East845, North Michigan AvenueCHICAGO, ILL 60-611� 1312/ 642 19 92Fax: 1312/ 642 98 17e-mail: chicago@tourspain.es

MiamiTourist Office of Spain1221 Brickell Avenue MIAMI, Florida 33131� 1305/ 358 19 92Fax: 1305/ 358 82 23e-mail: miami@tourspain.esNew YorkTourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35th.NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103� 1212/ 265 88 22Fax: 1212/ 265 88 64e-mail: nuevayork@tourspain.eswww.okspain.org

EMBASSIES IN MADRIDCanadaNuñez de Balboa, 35� 91 431 43 00. Fax: 91 431 23 67Great BritainFernando el Santo, 16� 91 319 02 00. Fax: 91 308 10 33JapanSerrano, 109� 91 590 76 00 Fax: 91 590 13 21RussiaVelazquez, 155� 91 562 22 64. Fax: 91 562 97 12United States of AmericaSerrano, 75� 91 587 22 00. Fax: 91 587 23 03

Written by:Jaime MillásTranslated by:

Michael D. BenedictPhotographs:

Turespaña Photographic ArchivesDesign:

PH color, S.A.Published by:

© TurespañaSecretaría de Estado de Comercio y

TurismoMinisterio de Economía

Printed by:GAEZ, S.A.

D.L.: M-34951-2001 NIPO: 380-01-014-8

Printed in Spain

1st Edition

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MINISTERIO DE ECONOMÍA

SECRETARÍA DEESTADO DE COMERCIO Y TURISMOSECRETARÍA GENERAL DE TURISMO

TURESPAÑA

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EUROPEAN COMMUNITY

European Regional Development Fund