cai wenwan's portfolio
DESCRIPTION
蔡文婉TRANSCRIPT
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Contents
1.SERIES of WORKS
1.1 Warmth and Dream ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 3
1.2 Gorgeous Queen ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 6
1.3 Celadon. And Ode ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 9
1.4 Butterflies Dance Lightly ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 14
1.5 The Beauty of Ecology ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 18
1.6 The Innovation in Cowboy Fashion ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 23
1.7 The Countryside Style ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 29
1.8 The Green Leaves Style ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 32
2 .Assignments
2.1 Pattern Designs of Cat ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 34
2.2 Study of Bandundu and Batik ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 40
2.3 Series of Little Table Assignment ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 43
2.4 Garments Designing ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 45
2.5 Effect Pictures Collection ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 45
2.6 Coures of Garment ,Makeup and Dasigning ┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄┄ 50
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Warmth and Dream
----- The Discussion of Application of Low-key Luxury Style in Formal
Dress Designing
Inspiration Source: The individuality and fascination of yellow carnation's "Outshine
others" and its Zigzag shape.
"Low Profile but Luxurious Style" was regarded as my theme. The representative
followers of yellow carnation were picked up tactfully as the fundamental struture.The
western stereoscopic clipping and the warm yellow carnation was selected to
emphasized the Low Profile but Luxurious Style. Thus, the streamlined textture with
classic and warm was appeared.In my desingn of modrem formal dress, I had blended
the elegant type and lines of western formaldress and the style of Low Profile But
Luxurious Style into my designs, which was built a real low luxury style but also
without lost the sexy attraction and a fashion style with magnificence.
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There is a strong relationship among the comforts of garment and the modeling and
type of garment. Both the three dimentional composition and the plane decomposition
are the significant fators of the rule of People First in garment designing. Therfore,
when I design this series of garment, I particular emphasis on improving the A shape
peplum above the 3D angle and the one-shoulder designing in garment's . Also I added
more types of them. I replaced the Big-Peplum who focus on sense of space with the
nature-hanging peplum or the peplum of three-dimensional cutting; comnined the many
puckers, the lace moulding, one-shoulder and oblique-shoulder designing into gaement
structure, which showing the low profile, delicacy and elegant luxurious effect
adequately.
The Effect Picture of Three Dimensional Structures
Chiffon Ruffled
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The processes of garment making: Plate-making grading, Tailoring, Hot Bonding
Lining, Spares Collecting, Waist Pull Shaped Parts, Splicing, Joining Shoulder Seam,
Sides-combining, Sewing of lining and Shell fabric, Front Fork Making, Ear Clip
Hanging, Lace Sewing, Bottom Edges Sewing, Pressing, Nail Bead, Checkout. Final
part is to check the forms, materials, processing technologies and decorative supplies
and etc.
Designing Notes:
The inspiration source of my design was from the concept of yellow carnation’s
traits of “Outshine others” and its Zigzag shape. I combined yellow carnation’s
beautiful and charming collors with the western three-dimensional clipping to show
the Low Profile but Luxurious style. Thus, the classic streamlined texture with warm
was appeared. In my desingning of modrem formal dress, I had blended the elegant
type and lines of western formaldress and the style of Low Profile but Luxurious Style
into my designs, which was built a real low profile but luxurious style but also without
lost the sexy attraction and a fashion style with sumtuousness. All of the above are
purpose on every female can own a formaldress, which is rich in lively sence of modern
but never lost the sumptuousness.
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Gorgeous Queen
--------The Application of Crease Factors of Rococo Style in Garment Designing.
Each season's fashion week there is no lack of the Rococo style figure, whether Chanel "lead
a voluptuous life Byzantine", or D&G Rococo theatre undoubtedly wind, designers have to retrieve
the climax of fashion, to seize the soul element of each period, it is a very good laugh; is so great
influence on modern dress, I personally feel that modern man was in fact a little decadent, so this
kind of style is very easy to be modern people pushing hands. Twenty-first Century is "she" century,
is the rise of women's age. Occupation women have outstanding performance in all walks of life,
head up half the sky, contributing their talents for the society, creating wealth, but the occupation
female always being the world collectively referred to as the "strong woman", tough, strong is
synonymous with their. In fact they have a gentle, delicate, elegant, considerate. So I design the
Rococo fold elements, and the use of different methods, the material to reflect the occupation
female "rigidity" and "flexibility", so as to have a new understanding of contemporary
"superwoman".
Clothing color with a soft and sweet tone, highlighting the female tender, delicate; fabric
material selection of cowboys and light is more heavy chiffon, net yarn collision of strong contrast,
which reflect the occupation female unique personality; accessories in gold as the main color to
blue mosaic stones and chatons embellishment. The whole series of clothing in the design pay
attention to "just" combined with "soft" style, fashion, bold, publicity is not the feminine
morbidezza, fully demonstrated the important role of women in today's society.
Effect diagram
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In my designs, I accepted the Crease Factor of the period of Rococo, used the plus
materials with big or small or organ style wrinkles to let meshes and jeans made a
layering. Generaly, as the different materials anf wrinkles were merged, there are
magical sparks will appear. The type who seems much simple will like a solid sculpture
after proped with human’s body. The soft and mild pink series plus wrinkle chiffon,
there are pretty plenty sweetness and more visual impacts.The traditional or modern or
fashion factors were got together, they still maintain a female’s workplace traits: beauty
of external and inner, showing with display and individuality,which is going to make a
new visual impact. All of the above will made the external and inner beauty of women
more remarkable and harmonious.
Design style chart
This garment series was published as the way of sample figure, the others were
published as the way of three-dimensional cliping. There is a inseparable relationship
between the garment’s comfort and structure.The drawing of garment’s structure not
only related with the drawing specifation, but also the related with the materials, types
and technologies.This garment series were give priority to wrinkle factors, used diverse
forms to show different traits, used the different length of peplum to adjusted the
balance.
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In this series, the loose and plastic twills were used as the main material, and the
dreamlike jeans of blue series were selected to highlight the female’s blandness; the
voile was picked out to mark the outline of the garment.
Designing Notes:
In contemporary period of female rising, the black or white suits become a
constraint to modern females. Be doughty or be mighty are their names, meanwhile, the
blandness, prudence, elegance, understanding is another identity cards of them. The
Queen, who is magnificent, dignified and sacred, that’s the most appropriate title for
the modern female. This design utilized the Rococo’s wrinkle style, diverse forms and
materials to express the “Adamancy” and “Blandness” of modern females. Therefore,
all of the people will recognize the cognition of Modern Female.
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Celadon and Ode
-The Application of Plum Blossom in Chinoiserie Formal Dress
Inspiration Source: Plum blossom, it always appears in every family in spring
festival in China. That’s my motive to select it in my garment design. Also, the Chinese
traditional ink painting and other factors were selected into my garment series.
In my design, I absorbed the factors of double-breasted button, roll off,
gathering, tassel earring and the bamboo hat with plum-blossom painting, used
the Chinese style to manifest the rhythmic beauty of modern formal dress.
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After the plentiful international activities were held in China, such as
Beijing Olympic Games, Guangzhou Asian Games, Shanghai World Expo,
Shenzhen University Games, within the scope of globe, raised a wave to wearing
the “Chinese Style” fashion clothing. In application of factors, I chose the
Chinese painting with typical and national features and the ancient font Xiao
Zhuang to make a classical dress. In structure, deconstruction methods of post-
modernity were used to replace the divide of body decoration, such as the vase type
dart of back, the combination of front vent and waist dart. Thus, the sense of classical
and streamline emerge at the right moment, which made a new breakthrough in
structure of formal dress. Also I pursuit more changes in specifics, such as frogs,
borders, gathering, plum-blossom painting etc. The tassel earrings which manifest the
national features and the bamboo hats which manifest the local village characteristics
of Jiang Nan were picked up as the decorations. In the whole series, I focus on the
combination of “Movement” and “Quiet”, solemn, artistic and vogue type, neat and
lively, totally expressed the elegance of formal dress of Chinese style and gave people
a sense of meaningful, thought-provoking and delightful.
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Design style chart
There is a solid relationship between the comforts and structure of garment. The
drawing of garment’s structure not only related with the drawing speciation, but also
the materials, types and technologies, Therefore, in this garment series designing, I took
some relative arrangements, samples plus washing shrinkage, dimensional stability
to ironing that’s the way to make it total match with the garments. The productions of
this series are narrow-waist garments. All of them are giving priorities to the wipe
sleeves, at the position of front bosom has a buttons structure, at the position of peplum
has a high split, ball gown, mini etc. There is a neckline dart and back structure at the
back part.
Matte Satin, Velvet, Georgette
The auxiliary material including the cotton ropes of borders, buttons, the fish bone and
breast implants as the support. This is strive for a combination between the decoration
style of not to stick to one pattern and the natural painting forms.
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辅料
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Designing Notes:
The designing inspiration of this series comes from the red plum-blossom
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in Chinese painting, the collar, high jag hem, drop shape front and the
combination of Han Chinese Clothing structure and Chinese painting, all of the
above are expresing the concept of The Past Serve the Present. Decorated with
the tassels, plate buttons, bamboo hats, enhance to a better effect. At the same
time, the freshness and concinnity of the plum-blossom brings people a poetic
visual enjoyment.
Celadon * Ode
--The Application of Celadon Emblazonry Pattern in Modern Formal Dress
Chinese traditional culture elements is the treasure of up and down five thousand years of the
Chinese nation civilization development, is the crystallization of the wisdom of working people in
our country. Chinese porcelain has a long history, the blue is our representative in China. It has a
long history, the mo cultural elements, is our rich cultural heritage of the Chinese nation, has been
loved belling is exquisite, rich in grain and unique lasting appeal, have high art value, become the
typical Chinese the people's, are widely used in modern fashion design, and in the clothing design
show the rich and colorful art form.
The inspiration source: Celadon from Jing De Town; The elegance of color white and
blue.
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This series used the classical white as the fundamental color, used the pure,
elegant blue and the divine black as the embellishment, to foil the special traits of
females’ beauty, bashfulness, dignity and elegance. Decorated with the “Black, White,
Blue” in color collocation, such as: White representing females’ dignity and elegance;
Black representing females’ sexy modeling and combinative application of traditional
or modern culture, even the trend of innovation; The whole white as the main color,
plus the pure and elegant blue-and-white to fortify the transcendent, to build a intact
color collection design.
This is a series of narrow-waist garment, including the line-style shape, neckerchief
shape and sloping-shoulder shape and etc. The sleeveless is the main design. At the part
of waist is a structure of flounce. At the part of peplum is high-jag, ball gown and the
combination of two different lining.
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Matte Satin, Silk net, Yogom Imitated Silk Fabric
The auxiliary material including the child-mother rope and beads and buckrams
and cheat pad as the support. This is strive for a combination between the decoration
style of not to stick to one pattern and the natural painting forms.
Designing Process and Exhibition:
Where there is an excellent garment designing, there is a stringent supervision. This
design focus on a rigorous workmanship, a strict selection of the stitches, rigid
controlling in every process, that’s in order to guarantee the requirement in quality and
design and achieve all the best design. Process : Artificial Reproduction-----
Sample Making-----Retouching-----Pattern Tailoring-----Fabric Tailoring-----Ironing
and Matching-----Sewing and Clipping-----Low-hem Linking-----Lining Linking-----
Bonding of lining and face fabric---Back Fork Making-----Invisible Zipper Installing--
---Sequins Sewing-----Blue-and-White Pattern Painting
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Designing Notes:
This garment series is focus on the Blue and White Patterns as the bright spot in
my modern formal dress designing. The “Blue and White Porcelain” is a visual symbol
which is the primer. The artificial paintings and the sewing beads were collected. All of
the above were purpose to get rid of the external simple and superficial forms. Through
the profound exploration, to analyze the Chinese neo-aesthetic style which base on the
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Blue-and-White Patterns in Chinese traditional culture and the creative ideas, which
emphasizes on modern females’ dignity, concision and daring. What’s more, I absorbed
the factors of cheongsam of recent period of China and the modeling of contemporary
popular formal dress, deconstruct and recombine them with the fashion vision, to
product some more conformable Chinese formal dress and supply more choices to the
vogue, individual and cultivated celebrities.
Butterflies dance lightly
---Probe into cloth recreation in dress design
Brainstorming
Clothing plays a very important role in people's life. The clothing not only reflect
personal aesthetic accomplishment, more is reflected the development of social culture,
art, economy. In a class society, clothing represent certain power and position, to the
modern, clothing also along with the progress of the society, the development of science
and technology, people have different requirements for clothing, given a more profound
meaning.
Throughout the history of costume, is not difficult to find that there is a close
relationship between clothing association and School of art, fashion has the reputation
as "the art of time". With the pace of the times, fashion is to show us the meaning of it
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blew.
Based on the recreation of textile decoration in fashion design in the use of analysis
of formal beauty and romantic style clothing not waves, from modeling, material, color,
details of decoration, summed up the rules of combination of romantic style clothing
design elements, and to individual design practices, the fabric reconstruction applied in
fashion design the concrete show the romantic elements of fashion modern clothing of
the aesthetic impact.
Design style chart
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Effect diagram
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In this series, cloths are renovated on collar, shoulder, breast, waist and hem and
are reprocessed by combining pattern recreation with texture recreation. The
application of various crafting technology brings richer layers and more stereo effect to
costume.
Major material of beading Some details of costume
Creased design, which focuses on folding the
fabric and then sewing it, is the important form of
this series of interior-structure design. This series of
products apply both regularly-creased design and
irregularly-creased design not only to bring more
convenience to people in their daily activities, but
also to enrich the overall effect of fashion, to convey
the lingering charm of flow, liveliness, ease and
romance.
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Design Notes:
Walk by River Banks for Flowers, a poem written by a Tang poet, Du Fu, is the
inspiration for this series of design. Butterflies are colorful fairies who dance lightly.
They decorate spring, retouch the earth and present the scene of flowers booming. Also,
assonating fragrance drifts about in the poem. The design series compromises the
elegant and romantic female temperament in costumes, intermingle European
romanticism with revivalism capture and blend all the soft elements together to give
comfort, elegance and smartness to a new generation of females and thus to meet their
requirements and to live up to their expectation of fashion.
The Beauty of Ecology
The Representation of Bird’s Natural Status on
Costume
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As global warming becomes more and more serious, people care more about the
problem of environmental protection. From transportation to domestic life, the concept
of LC (Low Carbon) affects many aspects of human life. Environmental protection is
not an empty talk. Nowadays, low-carbon lifestyle is more and more popular. The topic
“More environmental, more fashionable” is about anti-fur, anti-waste and making shoes
and bags from recyclable paper and plastic bottles. This topic shows that the real
fashionable attitude is to insist on environmental protection. The popularity of
Environmental Fashion not only brings us the enjoyment of beauty, but also a whole
new and healthy attitude of life and fashion. Fashion design is no longer only a thing of
creating new things. Nowadays, it’s creating amazing art in the context of no damage
and no killing. It can make a balance between these two aspects. The topic “Low-carbon
Lifestyle, The Representation of Bird’s Natural Status on Costume” uses the Natural
Status to show the gorgeousness of LC. No glittering, no heavy fur clothing. It just
extracts the natural colors from bird’s natural status and uses the most common
elements in daily life to present modern gorgeousness.
(一) (二) (三)
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(四) (五)
The design most concentrates on concise and natural style. So the structure
is relatively simple. This can avoid too much key points as that may makes the
design tacky and not clear about the topic. The main direction of this design is
in the structure of conciseness, adding some exaggerated and funny decoration.
(Picture 1) The first garment’ inspiration comes from raven. Raven is a kind of
nocturnal bird. It gives us the impression of pride and independence with little
bit loneliness and sorrow at the same time. So the structure of the first garment
is clear. Both wraps and skirts are fan-shaped, which show a kind of proud and
independent power likes raven. (Picture 2 & 3) The second and the third garments’
inspiration come from owl. They use owl’s most characteristic eyes to decorate,
which makes the design full of interest likes owl and also has a little bit black
humor. The design implies the impact of continually environmental disruption
on birds. The structures of the garments are short or long straight skirts, whose
form seems like a standing firm owl. (Picture 4) The ideas of fourth set of
garment came from the parrots. Parrot has an immediate relationship with the
human being. This set of apparel is symbolizing the preferable relation between
the nature and human being. The idea of upper part of the garment comes from
the limbs of flying parrots, then with a pant and showing the ease and
elegance..(Picture 5) Last set of garments were based on the idea of blue jay,
whose body profile is trenchant, layering and in a strong contrast with others.
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Color is the main point of this design. It uses the arrangement of more than 10 kinds
of color to show the colorful scene of nature. From night to day, from darkness to brightness,
from simple to splendid, it uses color to illustrate these gradual changes, which makes the
whole series of design be more interesting. This first garment is raven. The whole garment
is in black, with a little bit white color dotted. This makes the whole feeling not depressing.
The color of the dress gradually becomes dark brown, which means gradually leaving
darkness. The second garment-Owl continues the gradual change of the last garment. The
yellow color gradually appears which means the sunrise. The third garment has much white
color and also has the mixture of the colors. It has the feeling of everything coming back
to life. The forth garment begins to show the most representative color of nature -green.
Green color has the meaning of morning and also means the appearance of hope. The firth
garment extracts different blue colors from cyanocitta cristata. Blue color means light.
Layers of gradually changeable blue colors show the characteristic of cyanocitta cristata -
layers of its fur are distinct.
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Color Matching
The flat patternmaking of fabrics (Cotton)
Cotton is the best clothing material to illustrate nature and also the most low-
carbon material. Meanwhile, I co-ordinated with the wind-coat material which is
slight ,thin , movement and stabile, alao because of it can avoid an influence to the
effect of whole garment body. The most important is that the collorful material can
manifest the form of feather, it’s creative I consodered. With the diverse fibre ropes
were used in the patterns and accessories design, the modalities of them are binding and
splicing.
The showing of patterns and decorations
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The main point in technology was the dispose of wind-coat materials; all of them were
clipped and cohered by handcraft and spend a long time. Every garment need a diverse,
also the quantities of diverse color should be control in a befitting level, which is the
way of gradual change making.
The procedures of garments manufacturing: Plate making, Tailoring Ironing
Sticking and Collecting, Spares Collecting, Front pieces sewing Back pieces
making, Shoulder seam sewing, Collar Making, Collar Installing, Collar
Installing, Sleeves Installing, Handcraft, Pressing, Products Checkout .
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Design Notes:
My inspiration comes from the beautiful ecology. As anyone who mention about
the nature, I will think of the footloose animals in the forest, experically the birds who
have multifarious peculiarities in the diverse period. In my design, I selected the colors
from bird’s feathers and re-grop them; also, my ideas of patterns designing came from
the bird’s body features. All my ideas are purposer on appeal th epeople who pursuing
the vogue to never discarding the beauty of ecology.
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The Innovation in Cowboy Fashion
---- The Application of Deconstructionism in Innovative Garment Designing
The inspiration source: The shark’shape and the patchwork patterns of fish-bone
abstraction.
Effect diagram
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With the wishes to give strong visual impression in this series of costumes, I apply
creative clothes to show jeans innovation and recreate the fabric in way of structuralism.
The inspiration stems from contour of fish and thus fabric is recreated by picking up
the shape of fish bones abstractly.
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To show contradiction of non-clothing structure and conflicts of fabric character
and to meet the young generation’s aesthetic requirements for clothing rebellion, this
series of costumes deconstruct and recreate denim in the manner of jumping, breaking,
splitting, combining and so on. On the whole, it focuses on inheritance and innovation
of cowboy culture and then interprets the culture in a deconstructive way. As a result,
it not only influences our daily life, but also arouses the young’s pursuit of cowboy
culture spirit.
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The Countryside Style
Effect diagram
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The Green Leaves Style
Design Notes:
The whole dress is based on green as inspiration comes from leaves in the forest.
With the recreation and overlapping of fabric, I make up the upper part of the dress
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The pattern designs of cat
The sketches of cat
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The transformation of features
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The transformation of spots
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The all sides liking
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The designing of brims
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The changing of lines
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Effect drawing
The study of Batik and Bandhnu
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I have found some pictures to manufacture the patterns on the webs.
The test process.
The second finished product
The first finished product.
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The third finished product. The combination of Batik and Bandundu.
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The procedures:
The series of Little Table
The Inspiration Source: All of the knitted garments were manufactured with fibers and
plants. On this basis, I used the architectural materials: the ropes, which is tough and
easy to modeling.
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The procedures:
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The Garments Designing
The Inspiration Source: The exquisite feathers of peafowl and they were used to make
the necklaces, earring, brooches and handbags.
The design drawing of children’s garment
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The statement of Theme: The Tranquil Gray brings us a sense of little adult. This
product was taking examples by the western design styles and the other new elements
to recreates.
Garmen
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Cheongsams
Vines
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The Rhythms in Contryside
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The effect pictures of knitted fabric
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The Innovative Garment and Makeup
This garment series was created by integrated the Beijing Opera Facial Masks and The
Makeup of Modern Stage
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