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Chapter 6SOIL AND CONTAINERS FOR IT

Pots and Other Containers

In its natural state, marijuana may grow an extensive root system - afibrous network of fine, lateral roots that branch off a main,carrot-shaped tap root. In dry areas, the tap root can grow more than sixfeet deep in its search for water. In moist areas with fertile soil (suchas in potting mixtures), the lateral roots are able to supply water andnutritive needs and the tap root remains small, often only three or fourinches long on a seven-foot-tall mature plant.

The purpose of the growing medium is to provide adequate water andnutrients in addition to anchoring the roots, which hold the plant upright.By watering and fertilising as needed, you could grow a six-foot plant in afour-inch ((Pots are measured by diameter across the top.)) pot or in athree-foot layer of soil over your whole garden; but neither of theseextreme procedures is very practical.

Most growers use containers that will hold between two and five gallons ofsoil. These are a good compromise in terms of weight, space, cost, andlabour. They can be moved easily and hold an adequate reservoir of waterand nutrients to support a large mature plant.

Some growers use a single large box or several long troughs that hold asix- to 12-inch layer of soil. These have the advantage of minimalrestriction of roots and less frequent waterings, but they require moresoil and make rotating or moving the plants impractical.

Determine the right size pot to use in your garden by the amount of lightper square foot. For a moderately lighted garden (15 to 25 watts per squarefoot and most window gardens), use one- to three-gallon containers. Forgardens with more light energy - over 25 watts per square foot or one-halfday or more of sunlight - use three- to eight-gallon containers. Thesmallest pot we recommend for a full-grown plant is eight inches or onegallon. This is also a good size for starting plants to be transplanted

after two months.

Practically any container that can withstand repeated waterings and has atop at least as wide as its base will do. Each pot must have several holesin the bottom to assure drainage. Growers use flower pots,institutional-sized cans and plastic buckets, baskets and small trash cans,milk crates and wooden boxes.

Plastic trash bags are sometimes used when other large containers can't befound. They must be handled carefully, since shifting the soil damages thefragile lateral roots. They are also more difficult to work with whentransplanting. However, a roll of trash bags is an available andinexpensive substitute for other large containers. Plastic bags should be

double or triple bagged. Small holes should be punched in the bottom todrain excess water. Use masking tape to patch any unwanted tears. Thecapacity of the bag should be no more than twice as many gallons as theamount of soil used. For example, with four gallons of soil, the bag shouldbe of a five-gallon, but not more than eight-gallon size. Otherwise, itwill not form a cylinder, and the bag will remain a shapeless mass.

Use as many pots as can fit in the lighted area to make the most efficientuse of space. Many growers prefer to start the plants in smaller pots,transplanting into larger pots when the plants are larger. There are

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definite advantages to this method in terms of the yield in the garden,given its space and light energy. Seedlings and small plants take up muchless space than they will at maturity, so they can be placed closertogether. As the plants grow and begin to crowd each other, remove the lessvigorous (to smoke, of course) and transplant the rest into larger pots.Start plants which will be transplanted later in four to eight-inch flowerpots, or one-quart to one-gallon tin cans or milk containers. Peat pots orplanting pots are made of compressed plant fibre for the purpose ofstarting young plants. They are available at garden shops and come inseveral sizes. Use at least a four-inch pot so that the roots are notrestricted in early growth. Peat pots are supposed to break down in thesoil, but marijuana's delicate lateral roots may not be able to penetrateunless you score or break away the sides while transplanting. Wax paper cup(six to eight ounces), filled with a soil mixture, work as well as peatpots and are cheaper.

BOX C

Finding Large Containers

Use your ingenuity in finding large containers. Large clay flower pots donot work any better than the large metal and plastic containers discardedby restaurants and food stores. Various milk containers are good startingpots. Many garden shops sell used pots for a few cents each. Wholesalers

sell plastic pots by the carton at a discount. Large plastic pots and pailscan sometimes be picked up inexpensively at flea markets or variety stores.Any vessel that holds an adequate amount of soil and does not disintegratefrom repeated waterings is a satisfactory container.

Properties of Soil

The soil or growing medium serves as a source and reservoir for water, air,and nutrients, and to anchor the roots. Since marijuana grows extremelyfast, it has higher water and nutritive needs than most plants grownindoors. The success of your garden depends on supplying the plant with amedium that meets its needs without creating toxic conditions in theprocess.

There is no such thing as the perfect soil for Cannabis. Each variety cangrow within a range of soil conditions. For healthy, full, growth,marijuana prefers a medium with good drainage, high in available nutrients,and near a neutral pH (7.0). These conditions result from a complex set ofphysical, chemical and biological factors. We will refer to them simply as:(1) texture; (2) nutrients; (3) pH.

Most indoor growers prepare the growing medium using commercial pottingmixes. These mixes are usually sterilised or pasteurised and have goodgeneral soil properties. Since they seldom list the contents, nutrients, orpH, do some simple test of your basic soil whether you buy or dig for it.Then you can adjust the soil to meet the basic requirements of the plant.

Texture

The texture of the medium determines its water-holding and drainingproperties. Marijuana must have a well-drained medium for healthy growth.Soils that hold too much water or hold it unevenly can drown the roots,leading to poor growth or death of the plant. In a well-drained soil theroots are in contact with air as well as water. Soils that have too muchclay, or are overly rich in compost or other organic matter, tend to holdtoo much water and not enough air. This condition worsens in time. This is

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especially true of the soil in pots.

You can determine the texture of your soil from its appearance and feel.Dry soil should never cake or form crusts. Dry or slightly moist soil thatfeels light-weight, airy, or spongy when squeezed, and has a lot of fibrousmaterial, will hold a lot of water. Mix it with materials which decreaseits water-holding capacity, such as sand, perlite, or even kitty litter.

Wet soil should remain spongy or loose and never sticky. A wetted ball ofsoil should crumble or separate easily when poked.

Soil that feels heavy and looks dense with fine particulate matter, or issandy or gritty, will benefit by being loosened and lightened with fibrousmaterials such as vermiculite, Jiffy Mix, or sometimes sphagnum moss.

Soil Conditioners to Improve Texture

Perlite (expanded sand or volcanic glass) is a practically weightlesshorticultural substitute for sand. Sand and perlite contribute no nutrientsof their own and are near neutral in pH. They hold water, air, andnutrients from the medium on their irregular surfaces and are particularlygood at aerating the soil.

Vermiculture (a micaceous material) and sphagnum moss contribute small

amounts of their own nutrients and are near neutral in pH. They hold water,air, and nutrients in their fibre and improve the texture of sandy orfast-draining soils. Jiffy Mix, Ortho Mix, or similar mixes are made ofground vermiculite and sphagnum moss, and are fortified with a small amountof all the necessary nutrients. They are available at neutral pH, are goodsoil conditioners, and are also useful for germinating seeds.

Sphagnum and Peat Moss (certain fibrous plant matter) are sometimes used bygrowers to improve water holding and texture. Both work well in smallamounts (10 to 15 percent of soil mixture). In excess, they tend to makethe medium too acidic after a few months of watering. Use vermiculite orJiffy Mix in preference to sphagnum or peat moss.

Nutrients

Nutrients are essential minerals necessary for plant growth. The majornutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), whichcorrespond to the three numbers, in that order, the appear on fertiliserand manure packages, and that give the percentage of each nutrient in themix (see section 9).

Marijuana prefers a medium that is high in nitrogen, and mid-range inphosphorus and potassium. Generally, the darker the soil, the moreavailable nutrients it contains. Commercial soils usually contain a goodbalance of all nutrients and will support healthy growth for a month ortwo, even in smaller (one gallon) containers. Many growers prefer to enrich

their soil by adding sterilised manures, composts, or humus. All of theseprovide a good balance of the three major nutrients. They also retain waterin their fibre. In excess they cause drainage problems, make the medium tooacidic, and attract insects and other pests. A good mixture is one partcompost or manure to five to eight parts of soil medium. In large pots(four or five gallons), these mixtures might provide all the nutrients theplant will ever need. {Table 13.}

The many prepared organic and chemical fertilisers that can be mixed withthe soil vary considerably in available nutrients and concentrations. Used

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in small amounts, they do not appreciably effect the soil texture. Manyprepared fertilisers are deficient in one or more of the major nutrients(see Table 14). Mix them together so there is some of each nutrient, or usethem with manures, which are complete (contain some of all three majornutrients). When adding fertilisers, remember that organic materials breakdown at different rates. It is better to use combinations which complementeach other, such as poultry manure and cow manure, than to use eitherfertiliser alone. (See Table 22 in section 13 for a complete list oforganic fertilisers. {It isn't in section 13, its on disk.}) {Table 14.}

Chemical fertilisers are made in about every conceivable combination andconcentration. Pick one that is complete and where the first number (N) isat least equal if not higher than both P and K. For example, rose foods maybe 12-12-12 or 20-20-20, and work very well for marijuana. Others are:Vigoro 18-4-5 and Ortho 12-6-6. The higher the number, the moreconcentrated the mix is, and consequently, the more nutrients areavailable.

Don't use fertilisers which come in pellets or capsules, or that arelabelled "timed" or "slow release." They do not work as well indoors as dostandard organic and chemical fertilisers. Chemical fertilisers seldom listthe amount to mix per pot. You can get some idea by the instructions forapplication per square foot. Use that amount of each one-half cubic foot ofsoil mixture.

Many growers add no nutrients at this time but rely on watering withsoluble fertilisers when they water. These fertilisers and theirapplication are discussed in section 9.

pH

The pH is a convenient measure of the acidity or alkalinity of the soilmedium. It is another way of expressing whether the soil is bitter(alkaline) or sour (acid). The pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14, with7.0 assigned neutral; below 7.0 is acid and above is alkaline.

You can think of the pH as a measure of the overall chemical charge of the

medium. It affects whether nutrients dissolve to forms available to theplant or to forms the plant can't absorb, remaining locked in the soilmedium.

Marijuana responds best to a neutral (7.0 pH) medium, although in afertile, well-drained soil, it will grow well in a range of 6.0 to 8.5. Thesimplest way to check the pH is with a soil-test kit from a garden shop ornursery. Test kits are chemicals or treated papers - for example, litmuspapers or Nitrazine tape - that change colour when mixed with a wet soilsample. The colour is then matched to a colour chart listing thecorresponding pH. Nitrazine tape is available, inexpensively, in drugstores. Some meters measure pH, but these are expensive. Agriculturalagents, agricultural schools, and local offices of Cooperative Extension

will test a soil sample for pH and nutrient content. Occasionally, agarden-shop person will check pH for you or will know the pH of the soilsthey sell.

Highly alkaline soils are characteristically poor soils that form cakes,crusts, and hardpan. Soil manufacturers don't use them, nor should they bedug for indoor gardens. Alkaline soils are treated with sulphur compounds(e.g., iron sulphate) to lower the pH.

We have never seen commercial soils that were too alkaline for healthy

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growth, but they are sometimes too acidic. The pH of acid soil is raised byadding lime (calcium-containing) compounds. Liming compounds come in manyforms and grades. Some are hydrated lime, limestone, marl, or oystershells, graded by their particle size or fineness. Use the finest gradeavailable, since it will have more of a neutralising potential than acoarse grade. You need to use less and are more interested in immediateresults than long-term soil improvement. For indoor gardens, use hydratedlime (available in any hardware store) or wood ashes to raise the pH.Hydrated lime is rated over 90 percent for its neutralising potential. Woodashes will neutralise soil acids roughly one-half as well as hydrated lime.However, they also contain some nutrients (potassium, phosphorus,magnesium, and micronutrients) and are handy and free.

There is no exact formula we can give you for raising the pH. The pH doesnot have to be exact; it's and approximation. At low pH it takes less limeto raise the pH one point than it does when the pH is near neutral. Sandysoils need less lime to raise the pH one point than soils high in clay ororganic matter. In general, add three cups of hydrated lime or six cups offine wood ash to every bag (50 pounds or a cubic foot) of soil to raise thepH one point. For soils that test slightly acid (about 6.5), add two cupsof lime or four cups of wood ash.

Soil that tested below 6.0 should be retested in about two weeks, afterthoroughly mixing and wetting the soil. Repeat the application until the pH

is in an acceptable range. Check the pH of plain water to see if it isinfluencing the tests. Distilled water is neutral, but tap water sometimeshas minerals that can change the pH. Hard water is alkaline. Sulphurouswater and highly chlorinated water are acidic.

If you have already added lime to a soil that now tests from 6.5 to 7.0,don't add more lime trying to reach exactly 7.0. Too much lime willinterfere with nutrient uptake, notably of potassium, phosphorus, andmagnesium.

General Soil Characteristics

The texture, pH, and available nutrients of the soil are all related. The

most important single factor is texture (good drainage). When soil drainspoorly, it creates anaerobic (without air) pockets in the soil. Bacteria ormicrobes that live without air will begin to multiply and displacebeneficial microbes that need air to survive. The anaerobic microbes breakdown organic matter to a finer consistency, and release CO2 and organicacids to the medium. Drainage worsens, the acids lower the pH, andnutrients, even though present, become unavailable to the plant.

The result can be a four-month-old marijuana plant that is only threeinches tall, especially if you use high concentrations of manures andcomposts, peat and sphagnum moss. If your soil lists manures or composts asadditives, add no more than 10 percent of these on your own.

Drainage problems sometimes develop after several months of healthy growth.It is a good idea to add about 20 percent sand or perlite to even awell-drained soil. You can never add too much of these; they con onlyimprove drainage. They dilute the nutritive value of the soil, but you canalways water with soluble fertilisers.

Mixtures using many components in combination seem to work particularlywell. This may be because, at a micro-level each component presents aslightly different set of physical, chemical and biological factors. Whatthe plant can't take up at one point may be readily available at another.

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Preparing Commercial Soils and Mixes

Garden soils (or loams) and potting mixes are actually two different groupsof products, although they are frequently mislabelled. Some companies sellsoil in large bags and a potting mixture in smaller bags, while labellingthem the same. Soils and potting mixtures are usually manufactured locally,since transportation costs are prohibitive; so they differ in each area.

Texture and Nutrients

Soils and loams are usually topsoil blended with humus or compost for useas a top dressing in gardens, for planting large outdoor containers, or forthe soil part of a potting mixture. They may have a tendency to compactunder indoor conditions and will benefit from the addition of perlite orvermiculite. Soils and loams usually contain a good supply of nutrients andmay support a full-grown plant in a large container. Commercial soils thatare heavy generally work better than lightweight soils. Heavy soils usuallycontain topsoil, in which marijuana grows very well. Lightness indicatesmore fibrous content.

For example of possible soil mixtures, see Box D.

BOX D - under construction

Examples of Soil Mixtures*

1. 5 parts soil 2. 8 parts soil

2 parts perlite 3 parts sand

1 part cow manure 1/4 part 10-10-10 chemical

fertiliser


2 parts perlite 1 part sand

2 parts humus 1 part vermiculite

1/2 part cottonseed meal 2 parts humus

1/2 part poultry manure


1 part perlite 2 parts perlite

1 part sand 2 parts vermiculite

2 parts Jiffy Mix 1/2 part poultry manure

1/2 part blood/bone meal 1/2 part cow manure

1/2 part wood ash 1 part wood ash

*Almost all fertilisers are acidic, and need to be neutralised by lime. Forthe above mixtures, or any similar ones, mix in one cup of lime for eachfive pounds of manure, cottonseed meal, or chemical fertiliser in order to

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adjust the pH.

Potting mixes are intended to support an average-size house plant in arelatively small pot. They are sometimes manufactured entirely from woodand bark fibre, composts, and soil conditioners. These mixes are made tohold a lot of water and slowly release nutrients over a period of time,which is what most house plants require. For marijuana, these mixes seldomcontain enough nutrients to support healthy growth for more than a coupleof months. (Their N is usually low, P adequate, and K usually very high.)They work best when sand or perlite is added to improve drainage, andfertilisers are added to offset their low nutrient content.

The pH

Most commercial mixes and soils are between 6.0 and 7.0 in pH, a healthyrange for marijuana. If you buy your soil, it will not be too alkaline forhealthy growth, but it might be too acidic. You can minimise the chances ofgetting and acid soil by avoiding soils with "peat" or "sphagnum" in theirnames. Avoid soils that are prescribed for acid-loving plants such asAfrican violets or azaleas, or for use in terrariums. With common sense,you can buy a soil, add two cups of lime to each large bag, and not have toworry about the pH. However, the surest procedure is to test the pHyourself.

Probably the best way to find the right soil for your garden is to asklong-term growers. They can relate their past experiences with variousmixes and blends. Most long-term growers with whom we have talked havetried many of the mixes available in their areas. A reliable, enlightenednurseryperson or plant-shop operator may also be able to give you someadvice.

Buying Soil Components

All the materials discussed here are available at farm and garden stores ornurseries. Many suburban supermarkets sell large bags of soil and humus.Always buy your materials in the largest units possible to reduce the cost.

Large bags of soil and humus come in either 50-pound bags or one- tofour-cubic-foot bags. A 50-pound bag fills about six gallons. There areeight gallons to a cubic foot. Perlite is sold in four-cubic-foot bags(thirty-two gallons). Jiffy Mix and vermiculite are sold in four-cubic-footbags and in 16 pound bags (about 18 gallons). Sand, perlite and vermiculitecome in coarse, medium, and fine grades. All grades work well, but if youhave a choice, choose coarse. Sand (not beach sand) is an excellent soilconditioner. The only disadvantage is its heavy weight. Buy sand fromlumber yards or hardware stores where it is sold for cement work. It willcost from 1/50 to one-half the cost of garden or horticultural sand. Sandfrom piles at construction sites works very well.

Calculating the Amount of Soil

The maximum amount of soil mixture for any garden can be found bymultiplying the capacity of the largest pot you plan to use by the numberof pots that you can fit in the garden. In many cases, the actual amount ofthe mixture used will be somewhat less. Two illustrations follow.

1. A small garden with a two-tube, eight-foot fixture (160W). Using 20watts per square foot for fast growth gives 160W divided by 20W/sq.ft. +eight sq.ft. The largest pot needed for this system is three gallons, buttwo gallons would work. You can fit about 10 three gallon pots in eight

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square feet; so 3 * 10 + 30 gallons of soil mixture are needed (see Box E).

BOX E - under construction

Examples Showing How Much Soil Material to Buy to Fill

a Known Number of Unit-Volume Containers

Example 1. For a garden eight square feet in size,

Buy Component Which amounts to

3 50-lb (6 gal. ea. ) bags of soil 18 gallons

1 cubic foot of perlite 8 gallons

30 lbs of humus 3 gallons

10 lbs of chicken manure 2 gallons

TOTAL 31 gallons

Example 2. For a garden 24 square feet in size,

Buy Component Which amounts to

4 1-cu. ft. bags of soil 32 gallons

2 1-cu. ft. bags of perlite 16 gallons

1 1-cu. ft. bag of vermiculite 8 gallons

20 pounds of cow manure 3 gallons

cottonseed meal 2 gallons

wood ash 2 gallons

TOTAL 63 gallons

2. A large garden with two two-tube, eight-foot VHO fixtures (four times215 watts or 860 total watts) illuminating a garden three by eight feet, or24 square feet.

860 watts divided by 24 sq. ft. = about 36W/sq. ft.

The largest pot size for this system is about five gallons. About 16five-gallon containers can fit in 24 square feet; so 16 * 5 + 80 gal. ofmixture are needed. But you could start many more plants in smallercontainers and transplant when they are root-bound. You do not use more

soil by starting in smaller pots, since all soil is reused. In many cases,you actually use much less soil.

In this system you could start and fit about 40 plants in one-gallon potsin 24 square feet. When the plants begin to crowd each other, some areharvested, making room fir the others, which are transplanted to largerpots. In practice, a high-energy system such as this one (36W/sq. ft.) willgrow large plants whose size is limited mainly by the space available.Twelve large female plants are about the most you would want in the systemduring flowering and for final harvest. Sixty gallons of mixture is all

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that is needed for the seedlings and the mature crop. This is one-fourthles than the original estimate of 80 gallons, and you actually will harvesta lot more grass (see Box E).

Mixing and Potting

Mix your soil in a large basin, barrel, or bathtub. Individual pots arefilled with mixtures by using a smaller container to measure out by part orvolume.

Perlite, sand, and dry soil can give off clouds of dust. When mixing largeamounts of these, wear a breathing mask or handkerchief over your nose andmouth.

To pot any of the mixtures, first cover any large drainage holes with asquare of window screen or newspaper to prevent the mixture from runningout. Place a layer of sand, perlite, or gravel about one inch deep toinsure drainage. Fill the pots with soil mixture to within three-fourths ofan inch from the top of the pot. If your mixture contains manures orcomposts, cover the last inch or two in each pot with the mixture minus themanure and compost. This will prevent flies, gnats, moulds, and other pestsfrom being attracted to the garden. Press spongy soils firmly (not tightly)to allow for more soil in each pot; otherwise, after a period of watering,the soil will settle and the pot will no longer be full.

Some growers add a few brads or nails to each pot to supply the plant withiron, one of the necessary nutrients. Water the pots and allow them tostand for a day or two before planting. As the soil becomes evenly moist,beneficial bacteria begin to grow and nutrients start to dissolve. {Figure40.}

Digging Soil

Most growers prefer to buy their soil, while some prefer to dig it.Marijuana cannot tolerate heavy clays, mucks, or soils that dry to crusts.Choose a soil from a healthy garden or field, or from an area that supportsa lush growth of annual weeds.

Fields that support a good crop of alfalfa, corn or other grains willsupport a good crop of marijuana. Fields with beets, carrots, and sugarcane indicate a well-drained soil, with near neutral pH. Red clover, sweetclover, and bluegrass have soil requirements similar to those of marijuana.Garden soils are usually fertile and well-drained, but often need lime tocounteract soil acidity.

Take the topsoil layer that starts about two inches below the surfacedebris. Good soil will look dark, feel moist, and small clean and earthy.Use all of the topsoil layer that maintains its dark colour and isinterlaced with roots. Your hands should be able to easily penetrate theunderlying topsoil if the soil is in good condition. When the soil changes

colour, or roots no longer apparent, then you are past the fertile topsoillayer. Abundant worm, millipedes, and other small lifeforms are a goodindication that the soil is healthy. A rich layer of topsoil collects bywalls, fences, and hedges where leaves and debris collect and decay to arich humus. Sift the soil to remove stones and root clods. Also, shake outthe root clods, which are rich in nutrients.

Soil that is dug should be tested the same way as already prescribed. Itshould be adjusted with at least 30 percent sand or perlite (vermiculitefor very sandy soils), since potting will affect the drainage of even

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well-drained soils. Never use manures or composts that are not completelydegraded to a clean-smelling humus.

Soil that is dug must be sterilised to kill weed seeds, insect eggs, andharmful moulds and fungi. Some chemical treatments (e.g. formaldehyde) aremixed with water and poured over the soil to sterilise it. Soil can besterilised in a pressure cooker at 15 pounds pressure for 15 minutes, or bybaking wet soil in a large pot at 200 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes. Beadvised that baking soil will release some formidable odours.

Growing Methods

As we said before, there are probably as many growing methods as there aremarijuana growers. These methods are personal preferences or adaptions tofit particular situations; one method is not necessarily better than anyother. However, the value of a garden is often based on the amount ofhigh-quality grass it yields. Since indoor gardens are limited in size, youwant the plants to quickly fill the garden with lush growth in order to usethe garden efficiently. Otherwise, for the first couple of months, thelights are shining on empty space.

Secondly, the possession of small quantities of marijuana will probably bedecriminalised nationally within the next few years. Decriminalisation for

personal possession will open the way for decriminalisation for cultivationfor personal possession. But small quantities are more difficult to definefor cultivation than for simple possession, which is done by weight.Several possible ways to limit the amount for cultivation have been raised:by the number of plants, by the area cultivated, or by the number of plantsat a particular stage of development. The outcome may determine whether youtry to grow the largest plants possible or the most plants possible in agiven area.

There are several ways to increase your garden's yield.

1. Pinch or cut back the growing shoots when the plants are young. Thisforces each plant to develop several strong growing shoots and generally

yield large robust plants.

2. Plant a number of plants in each pot.

3. Start many plants in small pots and transplant the best plants to largerpots when the plants crowd each other.

4. Use different light systems to grow plants at different growth stages.

Here are some examples of how to carry out each of these four methods.

1. Fill the growing area with large containers (about five gallons each).Start several plants in each pot but thin the seedlings over a period of

six weeks to two months, until one plant is left in each pot. During thefourth or fifth week of growth, pinch back the plants to about equalheights. Cut the growing shoot at about the fourth internode. Each plantwill develop a sturdy stem which will support four to eight growing stemsand will quickly fill any empty space in the garden. The whole garden isthe treated like a hedge. After another month or two, you cut back thegrowing shoots again to have plants of equal heights. Remove the maleplants as soon as they begin to release pollen (or before any male flowersopen for sinsemilla). This will leave more space and light for the femalesto develop. By the time females flower, they've been cut back two or three

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times or more, and form a dense growth of growing shoots that fill thegarden with a cubic layer of flowers. Some growers maintain the plants forup to a year before the final harvest.

{Figure 41. Plant clipped at fourth internode.}

2. This method also requires large pots. Instead of thinning the seedlingsto leave one per pot, leave at least three. After a few months of growth,remove any plants that lag far behind or any plants that show male flowers.The value of this method is that the odds are at least seven to one thatany pot will have at least one female plant.

Most of the plants you'll grow will fill out with branches by four monthsat the latest. Often the branches develop young seedlings. The plants maybegin to look like small Christmas trees by the second to third months ofgrowth.

Generally, you don't want to have more than three or four plants in afive-gallon container, because growth will be limited by competition forlight and space.

{Figure 42. Basement growing factory in Atlanta.}

Some varieties never do fill out. The branches remain small, only two to

three inches long, and yield very little grass. We've seen plants like thisgrown from grass from Vietnam, Thailand, Afghanistan, and Africa. Theseplants are also quite short, being four to six feet tall fully grown. Withvarieties like this, it is better not to pinch tops, and to start about sixplants per square foot of garden space. At harvest, the garden will becrowded with top stems that are laden with flower clusters.

Of course, you don't know what varieties will look like until you've seenthem grow. For most varieties, each plant will need at least one squarefoot or space at maturity. It is much less common to find varieties thatnaturally grow small or especially thin, and, therefore, are those of whichyou would want to plant more than a few per large pot.

3. Another popular way to grow is to start plants in a large number ofsmall pots. As the plants crowd each other, some are removed and the resttransplanted to larger pots.

4. To get the most for your investment requires conservation of light andsoil. When the plants are young, a large number fit into a small place.Some growers take advantage of this fact by having several light systems,each with plants at different growth stages. The plants are rotated intolarger gardens and pots. This method conserves space, materials, andelectricity, and yields a harvest every two months. Using this method,"growing factories" turn out a steady supply of potent grass. {Table 15.}

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