By Rick LightBy Rick Light

Los Alamos Mountaineers Climbing SchoolLos Alamos Mountaineers Climbing School

April 2010April 2010

1.1. To obtain course materials from the web, go to: To obtain course materials from the web, go to: http://lamountaineers.org

2.2. Click the Click the ““DOWNLOADS”” box at the top of the box at the top of the page.page.

3.3. Find the Find the ““Canyoneering Teaser”” course course description and click on the link provided.description and click on the link provided.

2

� An overview – not a preparatory course – it is:

�� Not intended to give you what you need to start canyoneering Not intended to give you what you need to start canyoneering today, buttoday, but

�� Structured to give you a taste of what canyoneering requires,Structured to give you a taste of what canyoneering requires,

�� Designed to inspire interest in canyon exploration, and,Designed to inspire interest in canyon exploration, and,

�� Considered a leadConsidered a lead--in to a possible extension of this climbing in to a possible extension of this climbing school in the future. school in the future. (Maybe a short course followed by a canyon trip!)(Maybe a short course followed by a canyon trip!)

3

�� Often canyons chosen are gorgeous, uncrowded, secluded, amazingOften canyons chosen are gorgeous, uncrowded, secluded, amazing……

�� For competent climbers, doing canyons is a lot like doing your fFor competent climbers, doing canyons is a lot like doing your first big irst big wall, without the work:wall, without the work:

�� There are a lot of rope management issues, new things to learn There are a lot of rope management issues, new things to learn or figure out, or figure out, and a fair amount of problemand a fair amount of problem--solving required. solving required.

�� Once you've started down a canyon, there can be a vague sense ofOnce you've started down a canyon, there can be a vague sense of uncertainty uncertainty about whether you are up to the challenges ahead. about whether you are up to the challenges ahead.

�� Canyoneering provides numerous opportunities to screw up, preferCanyoneering provides numerous opportunities to screw up, preferably ably avoided.avoided.

�� Canyoneering is a blast!Canyoneering is a blast!

4

5

The rating is divided into four parts:The rating is divided into four parts:

� Technical Class (1,2,3,4), which indicates the technicality of the terrain , which indicates the technicality of the terrain and the type of ropeand the type of rope--work required; work required;

� Water Rating (A,B,C), which indicates the complications due to , which indicates the complications due to flowing or still water; flowing or still water;

� Risk Rating (G,PG,R,X),, which indicates the presence of more risk which indicates the presence of more risk factors; and factors; and

� Time or Grade (I,II,III,IV,V,VI), which indicates the length of the , which indicates the length of the adventure.adventure.

� Slot (S), which indicates a tight slot canyon., which indicates a tight slot canyon.

6

� Hikers of Reasonable Fitness and Skills will like will like 1A, 1B, 2A and 1A, 1B, 2A and 2B2B adventures.adventures.

� Climbers will generally enjoy will generally enjoy 3A and 3B3A and 3B routes. Need good roperoutes. Need good rope--work skills, judgment and experience. It is essential to have thwork skills, judgment and experience. It is essential to have the e right gear and know how to use it right gear and know how to use it -- like lots of slings, static ropes like lots of slings, static ropes and wet suits. Creative natural anchor skills are developed by and wet suits. Creative natural anchor skills are developed by getting out with experienced canyoneers. getting out with experienced canyoneers.

� Climbers will want to have at least five or six will want to have at least five or six 3A and 3B3A and 3B routes routes under their belts before taking on under their belts before taking on 4A and 4B4A and 4B canyons, or any canyons, or any canyon with an canyon with an R or XR or X rating. rating.

� Experienced Canyoneers will understand that flowing water has will understand that flowing water has its own risks and techniques that require special training. Clasits own risks and techniques that require special training. Class s 3C 3C and 4Cand 4C canyons should only be attempted by trained, wellcanyons should only be attempted by trained, well--equipped canyoneers.equipped canyoneers.

7

8

� Clothing:

�� Ranges from standard hiking attire to specialized waterRanges from standard hiking attire to specialized water--protection suits.protection suits.

�� Must be selected based on weather expected, canyon difficulty anMust be selected based on weather expected, canyon difficulty and water d water hazards, experience of participants, and duration of the trip.hazards, experience of participants, and duration of the trip.

� Backpacks:

�� Normal backpacking, hiking, climbing packs often have features tNormal backpacking, hiking, climbing packs often have features that limit hat limit their applicability to canyoneering their applicability to canyoneering –– such as outside pockets and straps that such as outside pockets and straps that can snag in narrow spaces, structure that is not intended to hancan snag in narrow spaces, structure that is not intended to handle water dle water well, limited resistance to abrasion, and wider stance than desiwell, limited resistance to abrasion, and wider stance than desired for red for narrow canyons.narrow canyons.

�� Svelte, waterSvelte, water--draining, durable, simple packs work best draining, durable, simple packs work best –– in the 30L size in the 30L size range for many canyons, 40Lrange for many canyons, 40L--50L for longer, more advanced canyons. Even, 50L for longer, more advanced canyons. Even, drydry--bags with harnesses can work very well.bags with harnesses can work very well.

9

� Climbing Gear:� Helmets: same as for normal rock climbing.same as for normal rock climbing.

� Harnesses: should have adjustable legshould have adjustable leg--loops (adjustable enough to fit over a loops (adjustable enough to fit over a wet/dry suit), haul loop, gear loops, and not absorb water.wet/dry suit), haul loop, gear loops, and not absorb water.

� Shoes: do NOT use boots, climbing shoes, sandals, or tennis shoes do NOT use boots, climbing shoes, sandals, or tennis shoes –– use use approach shoes designed to handle water (drain well, sticky rubbapproach shoes designed to handle water (drain well, sticky rubber on er on soles), or special canyoneering shoes.soles), or special canyoneering shoes.

� Ropes: are generally static ropes, not dynamic lead ropes, except in caare generally static ropes, not dynamic lead ropes, except in cases of ses of advanced canyoneering. Most ropeadvanced canyoneering. Most rope--work has to do with descending work has to do with descending (rappelling), lowering packs, and avoiding potholes. Special ca(rappelling), lowering packs, and avoiding potholes. Special canyoneering nyoneering rope bags are available that float and are designed to allow feerope bags are available that float and are designed to allow feeding the rope ding the rope from inside the bag while rappelling.from inside the bag while rappelling.

� Rappel / Belay Devices: can be the same as for normal rock climbing, can be the same as for normal rock climbing, however, some are more canyoneeringhowever, some are more canyoneering--friendly (e.g., those that allow for friendly (e.g., those that allow for friction adjustment in the middle of a rap). Care must be takenfriction adjustment in the middle of a rap). Care must be taken to ensure to ensure device is not lost after rappelling into water, etc.device is not lost after rappelling into water, etc.

� Biners: LargeLarge HMS manual lockers are the most common, along with ovals, HMS manual lockers are the most common, along with ovals, for symmetry and ease of use.for symmetry and ease of use.

10

11

�� Normal climbing knots for rope and webbing:Normal climbing knots for rope and webbing:

�� Bowline, rethreaded figure 8, clove hitch, Munter hitch, figure Bowline, rethreaded figure 8, clove hitch, Munter hitch, figure 8 8 on a bight, girth hitch, water knot, fishermanon a bight, girth hitch, water knot, fisherman’’s knot, prusik, s knot, prusik, Bachmann knot, Klemheist knot, slipknot, etc.Bachmann knot, Klemheist knot, slipknot, etc.

�� SelfSelf--equalizing anchor setequalizing anchor set--ups (sliding X, etc.).ups (sliding X, etc.).

�� AutoAuto--block setblock set--ups for easy rope pulling.ups for easy rope pulling.

�� PrePre--rigging for rescue during a rappel rigging for rescue during a rappel (Munter(Munter--mule with tiemule with tie--off, off,

etc.)etc.)

�� Retrievable anchor setRetrievable anchor set--ups.ups.

�� Specialized knots and rigging for advanced canyons.Specialized knots and rigging for advanced canyons.

12

�� Knowing how to make sure the rope will pull. Knowing how to make sure the rope will pull.

�� Rappelling skills:Rappelling skills:�� Rappelling on single and double strands, using thin and Rappelling on single and double strands, using thin and

thick ropes. thick ropes.

�� Having efficient ropeHaving efficient rope--work for multiple short rappels.work for multiple short rappels.

�� Ability to adjust friction in the middle of rappels.Ability to adjust friction in the middle of rappels.

�� MultiMulti--stage rappels stage rappels -- not pulling the rope until the next not pulling the rope until the next set of anchors is in hand. set of anchors is in hand.

�� Directed rappels and appropriate rope rigging.Directed rappels and appropriate rope rigging.

�� Rappelling into pools (without drowning). Rappelling into pools (without drowning).

13

�� Building natural anchors in difficult situations:Building natural anchors in difficult situations:�� Thorough understanding of how to set anchors safely.Thorough understanding of how to set anchors safely.�� Know how to use natural features such as chockKnow how to use natural features such as chock--stones, stones,

arches, etc.arches, etc.�� KnotKnot--chocks chocks –– when, where and how to use them.when, where and how to use them.�� DeadDead--man anchors man anchors ––when, where, how to use them.when, where, how to use them.

�� Getting past keeper potholes:Getting past keeper potholes:�� Deep understanding of the problem, possible solutions, and Deep understanding of the problem, possible solutions, and

risks.risks.�� Pack tosses, and other counterPack tosses, and other counter--balance solutions.balance solutions.�� PartnerPartner--assisted climbs.assisted climbs.�� Hooks, octopusHooks, octopus--rigging for pack toss, rigging and risks.rigging for pack toss, rigging and risks.�� Guided rappels and bridging techniques to cross potholes.Guided rappels and bridging techniques to cross potholes.

14

15

"There have been joys too great to be described in words, and there

have been griefs upon which I have not dared to dwell, and with

these in mind I say,

climb if you will,

but remember that courage and strength are naught without

prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the

happiness of a lifetime.

Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the

beginning think what may be the end."

— Edward Whymper

16

� Get Some Skills.

Canyoneering requires specific skills Canyoneering requires specific skills -- learn them, either by learn them, either by taking a course or by hanging out with more experienced taking a course or by hanging out with more experienced canyoneers. This class is just an overview.canyoneers. This class is just an overview.

Canyons change Canyons change –– high water, low water, after flash floods: high water, low water, after flash floods: the same canyon becomes a completely different adventure.the same canyon becomes a completely different adventure.

Plan for and know how to handle first aid situations, Plan for and know how to handle first aid situations, especially dehydration, heat stroke, heat exhaustion, and especially dehydration, heat stroke, heat exhaustion, and other desertother desert--related injuries, along with cold related related injuries, along with cold related problems due to exposure to cold water (hypothermia).problems due to exposure to cold water (hypothermia).

17

� Don't be a Beginner, Led by a Beginner.

The majority of accidents occur to people doing their The majority of accidents occur to people doing their first or second canyon; people who are unfamiliar with first or second canyon; people who are unfamiliar with canyoneering and the skills required, often in large canyoneering and the skills required, often in large groups, led by someone who has only a vague idea of groups, led by someone who has only a vague idea of what they are doing. Don't do this. what they are doing. Don't do this.

18

� Don’t Get In Over Your Head.

Choose your route based on your skills and the skills of Choose your route based on your skills and the skills of your group. This is not a contest your group. This is not a contest -- if you are in it for the if you are in it for the challenge and adrenaline, you are in the wrong sport challenge and adrenaline, you are in the wrong sport --take up sky diving. take up sky diving.

19

20

� Bring the Right Stuff.

Skimping on gear is not a good idea. Everyone should Skimping on gear is not a good idea. Everyone should have a helmet, a harness, their own rappel device, and have a helmet, a harness, their own rappel device, and cowtails (harness anchor lines) and biners. When cowtails (harness anchor lines) and biners. When required, everyone should have a wet suit or dry suit. required, everyone should have a wet suit or dry suit. Everyone should be prepared to rappel on the rope Everyone should be prepared to rappel on the rope chosen for the adventure. Everyone should be prepared chosen for the adventure. Everyone should be prepared to handle contingencies.to handle contingencies.

21

� Pay Attention to Flash Flood Possibilities.

Know the weather forecast upstream as well as in your Know the weather forecast upstream as well as in your canyon. Pay attention to the sky. canyon. Pay attention to the sky.

Do NOT go Canyoneering during the Monsoon.

Do NOT go Canyoneering when big thunderstorms are forming.

22

�� Rain far away can create a flood where you least expect it.Rain far away can create a flood where you least expect it.

�� If the Thunderheads are already forming by noon, things are goinIf the Thunderheads are already forming by noon, things are going to be bad. g to be bad.

�� If you cannot see through the rain falling during a thunderstormIf you cannot see through the rain falling during a thunderstorm, it is strong , it is strong enough to create a flash flood. enough to create a flash flood.

�� From the start of rain to flash flood conditions can take less tFrom the start of rain to flash flood conditions can take less than 5 minutes. han 5 minutes.

�� If your inner gut says 'no', listen to it. Go do something else.If your inner gut says 'no', listen to it. Go do something else.

�� Pay attention to signs like changes in water color, temperature,Pay attention to signs like changes in water color, temperature, debris, level debris, level ––these could save your life.these could save your life.

�� However high you think you need to be to be safe from the flood,However high you think you need to be to be safe from the flood, go at least go at least twice as high. twice as high.

23

� Avoid Hubris.. Good traditional climbing skills are the basis Good traditional climbing skills are the basis for good canyoneering skills, but there's more stuff to learn. for good canyoneering skills, but there's more stuff to learn. Most canyons can easily humble a large ego.Most canyons can easily humble a large ego.

� Don't Stick the Rope. Consider every rappel carefully. Wet Consider every rappel carefully. Wet ropes are often much more difficult to pull than dry ropes. ropes are often much more difficult to pull than dry ropes. Canyon rappels are often much more difficult to pull than Canyon rappels are often much more difficult to pull than climbing rappels. climbing rappels.

� Check the Anchors. Canyons are often descended by folks Canyons are often descended by folks with really poor skills. This leads to a lot of poorly chosen, with really poor skills. This leads to a lot of poorly chosen, poorly placed and poorly rigged anchors. Check anchors poorly placed and poorly rigged anchors. Check anchors and rigging before using them, reand rigging before using them, re--rig when needed, and rig when needed, and remove unhelpful slings. remove unhelpful slings.

24

�� Zion & Southern Utah:Zion & Southern Utah:http://www.zionnational-park.com/zion-national-park-canyoneering.htmhttp://www.canyoneeringusa.com/utah/

�� Southern Nevada and California: Southern Nevada and California: http://www.dankat.com/advents/content.htmhttp://www.dankat.com/swhikes/content.htm

�� Arizona:Arizona:http://www.toddshikingguide.com/AZTechnicalCanyoneering/index.htm

�� Lots of good technical info Lots of good technical info along with a "Canyon Index" section along with a "Canyon Index" section for the America's in the ACA forums:for the America's in the ACA forums:

http://www.canyoneering.net/forums/

25

26