By Hilarie Larson

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Most of the credit for Chateauneuf-du-Pape’sfame, however, goes to the Catholic Church, whowere the major vineyard owners andwinemakers of their time. In the 14th century, thePapal seat was moved from Rome to the city ofAvignon.  The vineyards of Chateauneuf wereclose by and, the Papal court soon learned,made fabulous wines. Continued on Next Page…

The wine world has its share of eponymousregions; so famous, that just the meremurmur of their name evokes a sense ofwonder. Chateauneuf-du-Pape is one of thoseregions.

The rich, bold and sensuous red wines that arecreated from this parcel of land in the south ofFrance have been renowned for hundreds ofyears. For those of us who love wineChateauneuf-du-Pape is practically a place ofpilgrimage.

It doesn’t matter from which direction youapproach the village. Whether it’s from the rockyplateaus to the north and the city of Orange,from the east and the medieval town ofCourthezon, or from the flowing Rhone River tothe west – the omnipresent ruins of the famedchateau acts as a beacon to the wine-lover.

Wine grapes are nothing new to the region.Vines have grown wild here for millennia andsome, like Syrah, are now very familiar. TheGreeks, who arrived around 600 BC, cultivatedthese vines and introduced varieties from theirhomeland.

Big Blend Radio: Hilarie Larson discussesChateauneuf-du-Pape

The Romans were next, using the Rhone as amain transportation route, expanding thevineyards along its banks.  By the 2nd c BC, theentire Rhone Valley was an important wineproducing region and continued to be throughthe Middle Ages and beyond.

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Pope Clement V extended the vineyards, andPope John 12th was so taken with the town thathe built his summer home overlooking thevineyards and river, giving the village its name“New Castle of the Pope”. ‘Vins du Pape’ soonbecame all the rage and sustained this wine-creating village of 1000 inhabitants for centuries.Wines were shipped to Germany, Britain andAmerica, their fame propelled by famous Frenchauthors such as Nobel Prize winner andProvençal hero Frederic Mistral, who wrote, “Thewine from Chateauneuf brings courage, melody,love and joy.”

The growers of Chateauneuf-du-Pape protectedthe quality and reputation of their wine byestablishing a classification system, guaranteeingits authenticity.  They were the first in France todo so and in 1935, they were instrumental in thedevelopment and implementation of the AOCsystem (the Appellation d’Origine Controllée),which is still in place today and replicatedthroughout the wine world.

So what is it that makes “Chateauneuf”, as thelocals call it, such a special and unique setting forviticulture?  Is it because it’s the sunniest place inthe Rhone Valley?

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Perhaps it’s the iconic Mont Ventoux or nearbyDentelles de Montmirail Mountains that shieldthe vineyards from the mighty Mistral winds? Allthese contribute to the unique ‘terroir, but asyou gaze upon the vineyards, the mostdistinctive feature is the soil.

The Rhone Valley was created during the last IceAge when glaciers from the Alps began to travelsouth, grinding and pushing the terrain as theymade their way to the Mediterranean.  In thesouthern part of the Rhone, the valley widens,forming plains near the river, graduating tohigher plateaus as you move inland.

It’s on these plateaus, that you find what manyconsider the ‘signature’ of Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s terrain: the Galet Roulès.  These round,rolled rocks vary in size from small pebbles towell over a foot across. Composed of ‘Silice’ orQuartzite silica, a substance not local to thearea, they were carried by those ancient glaciers,tumbled and rolled all the way from the Alps.Today, they dot the vineyards, ensuringmoisture stays in the soil and radiating warmthto the vines.

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Vineyards on the upper plateau of Chateauneuf-du-Pape

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The diverse soils support the wide array ofsanctioned grape varieties. There are 13 in alland, although Grenache is considered the‘signature’ grape, each plays its part to bringbalance and harmony, finesse and distinctivecharacter. In Chateauneuf-du-Pape, blending iseverything.

The reds are brimming with red fruits, pepper,spice, and often, hints of licorice, while the scarcewhite blends (only 6% of production) aresensuous with stone fruits, and fragrant whiteblossoms with a balanced, refreshing finish.

While the reputation of the wines is huge, thevillage is small and approachable. There’re anumber of winery tasting rooms in town butmany are dotted around the appellation andsome are still ‘by appointment only’. Keep inmind that Chateauneuf is part of Provence andalmost everyone keeps to the tradition of closingfor lunch!

Here are a few suggestions:Domaine de la Jannasse is located in the stunningmedieval village of Courthezon. Isabelle Sabonand her brother Christophe craft wines in thecellar built by their father in 1973.

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All their fruit comes from the estate’s 60 parcelsproducing an array of wines that have garneredgreat acclaim.  Try their ‘Vielles Vignes’ or ‘oldvines’; average age 80-100 years. Grown on fourdifferent types of soil, “the mix of soils is a tool”,according to Isabelle and one they employ withgreat results.

On the eastern side of town, you’ll find thepremises of Roger Sabon.  The surname turns upquite a bit as the family has been in Chateauneufsince 1540 and Roger Sabon is truly a familyaffair.  With 16 acres of vineyards, including ‘LaCrau’ on the plateau, winemaker Didier Negroncreates wines of elegance and freshness sewntogether with more than a touch of passion.Look for ‘Les Olivets’, ‘Cuvèe Prestige’ (a blend ofeight varieties),’ Le Secret des Sabon’ and theirwonderful white blend.

Domaine Moulin-Tacussel is in the midst of townand has a charming tasting room where you cansample their outstanding wines. They producetwo whites, which is a bit unusual for the region,including ‘Cuvée Annette’, which is 100%Roussanne.

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Delicious choices at Domaine de la Jannasse

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One of the ‘newer’ ventures, Domaine Durieu wasestablished in 1970. Brothers François and Paulare emblematic of the new generation ofvigneron, creating wines from a variety of localvineyards in addition to Chateaneuf-du-Pape, ina clean, approachable style with a focus onterroir. And their tasting room is gorgeous!

Chateau la Nerthe, on the other hand, is one ofthe earliest producers and exporters in theregion. The vineyards and estate are foundsoutheast of the village and the drive up to the18th century chateau is spectacular.  The tastingroom is modern and well worth a visit.

Domaine de Beaucastel is most likely one of, if notthe most, famous of the wineries inChateauneuf.  Owned and operated by the 5th

generation of the Perrin family, the chateau canbe traced back to the 16th century.  Visits are byappointment only.

If you’re looking for a great selection of localwines and foods, stop by Le Petit Serre Cave deVignernons. Here, you can sample a few wines,local olives and ‘saucisson’ with the delightfulproprietors who are always eager to help you fillyour picnic basket.

Pay a visit to artisan chocolatier BernardCastelain, just south of the village. This factorystore is a treasure trove of confection and theyalso offer wine and chocolate pairings. Chocolatepurists will really enjoy the single origin bars.

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Bernard Castelain Chocolates

Tasting room of Domaine Moulin-Tacussel

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The best way to enjoy the village is by foot.  Startat the fountain in the heart of the village, headup Rue Joseph Ducros, past the church, thenfollow the signs to the steps leading to the ruinsof the Pope’s Chateau. There’s not much left ofthe structure, but the views across the village,vineyards and out to the river are simplybreathtaking. On your return, take any streetthat catches your fancy. It’s hard to get lost aslong you head downhill.

Eat & Drink:Le Pistou (named after the fabulous Provençalversion of Pesto) is small and cozy in size buthuge in hospitality, service and the quality of itsmenu. Try whatever they have on special thatday and ask ‘Madame’ for her wine pairingsuggestions. You can’t lose.

If you just can’t make it up to the chateauwithout a glass of wine, pop in to Le Verger desPapes.  The views from the terrace are some ofthe best in the area.

The main ‘square’, which revolves around thefountain and olive tree, is home to a number ofcafés and is the best spot to watch the daily,village life go by. Try La Part des Anges for a ‘verredu vin’ or ‘bière pression’, grab a table by thestreet and soak it all in.

Hilarie Larson’s passion for wine began in the1970’s while in the European hospitality industry. In2003 she began her wine career in earnest in hernative British Columbia, Canada, working at severalOkanagan Valley wineries. Along the way, sheacquired her certificate from the Court of MasterSommelier, worked for an international wine brokerand as ‘Resident Sommelier’ for wineries inWashington State and California. Hilarie’s greatestjoy is spreading the gospel of wine, food and travel.In addition to her own blogs atwww.NorthWindsWineConsulting.com, shecontributes articles to a number of onlinepublications. She was honored to be awarded the2013 Emerging Writer Scholarship from theInternational Food, Wine and Travel WritersAssociation, for whom she is now the AdministrativeDirector.

Video: 60 Second Spotlight of Chateauneuf-du-Pape

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