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Page 1: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

By Ellyce Rothrock

76 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

Page 2: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

Newport Beach delivers specialty cocktails good to the last drop.

The BalboaBay Club &Resort offersa an arrayof specialtycocktails.

Happy Specialty Hour

IF YOUCAN'TFINDALOUNGE,NIGHTCLUBORBARINNEWPORTATWHICHYOUCANENJOYAcool, kickin' specialty cocktail, you might as well stop drinking. We'll give you alittle leg up by pointing you in that "special" direction.The Yard House (849 Newport Center Dr.) is famous for beer-yummy, frothy,

anywhere between 200 to 250 varieties on tap famous. But this must-visit establish-ment delivers top-notch specialtycocktails, too. Yard House's cocktailmenu features 23 house martinisand 12 specialty drinks, as well as92 spirits to create hundreds ofother drinks upon request. Some ofthe establishment's most popularconcoctions include the Pome-granate Press Martini, blendingpomegranate and citrus flavors;Brazilian Lemonade, mixing citrusvodka, mint and fresh lemon; andthe Miami Ice Martini, with peachand citrus. The Silver CaddyMargarita mixes 1800 Silver tequilaand Grand Marnier; the ClassicMojito blends fresh mint, limesand either Bacardi Silver or TenCane Rum (savor a twist with freshmango, strawberry or pomegranatefruit puree).Beer hounds must try the beer blends, like the Black Velvet'sWyder's Pear Cider and

Guinness Stout; the Eclipse's Blue Moon and Guinness Stout; the Half &Half's Harpand Guinness; the Youngberry Chocolate's Lindeman's Framboise and Young's chocolatestout; and the Black &Blue's Seadog Bluepaw Wheat and Guinness.Named after the legendary John Wayne, Duke's, located in The Balboa Bay Club &

Resort (1221 Coast Hwy.), offers jazz, superb views of Newport Harbor, a bar inventorythat puts most well-stocked, well-heeled liquor stores to shame, and delicious specialtycocktails, including the Razzatini, which blends Absolut Raspberry, Cointreau, Cham-bord and dash of lime; The Duke's Cocktail, mixing cognac, Commemorativo Tequila,Cointreau and Sweet Sour; and the Orange Julius, just like you remember from yourteenage years at the mall (sans the Absolut Vanilla and Cointreau thrown in).Villa Nova is another waterfront venue with a specialty cocktail menu to keep your

hours happy for many, many days. The Champagne Flamingo blends Ketel One, peachschnapps, Chambord and Piper Sonoma champagne; the BayBerry infuses StoliBlueberry, lemonade, Triple Sec and 7-Up; Villa Carmela mixes Belvedere, Tuaca, ApplePucker and a touch of cream and caramel swirl; the Cioccolato combines Stoli Vanilla,Godiva, Kahlua and Creme de Cocoa; the Margarita Italiano blends Jose Cuervo, GrandMarnier, Amaretto and a splash of Sweet & Sour; Pear Harbor blends Absolute Pear,Apple Pucker, Blue Caracao, pineapple juice and 7-up. And that's just for starters.Other hotspots for specialty drinks and being seen include 3 Thirty 3 (333 Bayside

Dr.), The District Cocktail Lounge (121 McFadden St.) and Code Restaurant Lounge(4221 Dolphin Striker Way).

88 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

Page 3: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

90 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

RICHARD MEADSAGE ON THE COAST EXECUTIVE CHEFWHAT FIRST BEGAN AS A SUMMER JOB AT AGE 14 DEVELOPED INTO FULL-TIME CATERING

that helped Richard Mead earn a degree in economics from Ohio Wesleyan College. Mtergraduation, he was a number cruncher by day but poured over cookbooks at night. In 1979,he resigned his post at the U.S. Treasury Department and headed west, first taking root inMammoth, Calif., where he cooked at night to support his daytime skiing habit. Realizing hewas happiest in the kitchen, Richard moved to Los Angeles, where he walked into a goldenopportunity: to help create and develop the concept and menus for Stanley's in ShermanOaks. As both executive chef and kitchen manager, Richard honed his culinary skills anddeepened his knowledge of the restaurant business, helping to open a second Stanley's inWoodland Hills three years later.After Stanley's, he set up at the coast in 1989, at Santa Monica's 17th Street Cafe, which

became known for its creative cuisine and celebrity clientele.Fueled by success and ambition, Richard eventually sold his interest in the 17th Street Cafe

to concentrate on creating a restaurant that could better showcase his style. He opened Sage in1997 on a shoestring budget, and the restaurant became so successful that he decided to open amore upscale version, which led him to Sage on the Coast at Crystal Cove Promenade in 2004.Chef Richard says Sage on the Coast is a model of understated sophistication. His weekly

trips to the Santa Monica and Irvine Farmer's Market, and his Chinese and European ancestries,make his dishes sing. "My food is autobiographical; it represents my life experience," he says..

Page 4: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

Zov's CafeBakeryandBar

WIKIPEDIA IS NOT THE MOST TRUSTWORTHY INFORMATION SOURCE, BUT HERE, IT'S

pretty dead-on. "Hospitality is well-known in Armenia and stems from ancient tradi-tion," notes Wiki. "Social gatherings focus around sumptuous presentations of course aftercourse of elaborately prepared and well-seasoned food. Hosts will often put morsels ona guest's plate whenever it is empty or fill a glass when it gets low. It is rare for one to goinside an Armenian household and not be offered coffee, pastry or food."And this is most true ofZov's in Newport Coast. A hybrid of ArmenianiMediterra-

neanlbistro-inspired dishes awaits at Zov's, where Middle Eastern influences meet Ameri-can flair. "All of our food is exceptionally healthy and flavorful," says general managerArmen Karamardian. "Everything is made from scratch." Zov's builds its foundation byusing old family recipes and mother Zovag's extraordinary culinary skills that garnered herthe coveted Angel Award from the New York-based James Beard Foundation.Inside the airy cafe with its modern appointments and vaulted ceilings you'll find an

atmosphere that invites guests to linger as long as they choose. The menu is even moreinviting. Start off a meal with flash sauteed calamari, so unlike the breaded bar appetizerfound elsewhere. This preparation of melt-in-your-mouth calamari rings is done withgarlic, fresh herbs, tomatoes and a subtle white wine cream sauce. Other selections includethe Mezze platter of family-recipe hummus, rice-filled grape leaves (with the leaves hand-picked in Fresno), muhammara and pita bread. The golden lentil soup is hearty recipefrom Zovag's Hye (Armenian) grandmother and is ideal comfort food for upcoming fall.Entrees include the Moroccan salmon salad, featuring an exotically seasoned filet resting

on organic greens, tomato, m'jaddarah, feta cheese, balsamic vinaigrette; and the chickenkebob-a marinated chicken breast on a skewer, bulgar pilaf and eggplant tagine, served

with a side of yogurt mint sauce. Even the Zov's sirloinburger is brought to gastronomic splendor with itsseasoned Angus beef and gooey melted Brie.Save room for something sweet, like the milk

chocolate bomb, which has chocolate ganache andcreme brulee and sugar cookie crust hiding below itssurface. Zov's also has a great bar with signature drinks,tasty nibbles and a nightly happy hour if you can resista multiple-course meal. But you won't resist for long.Zov's friendly neighborhood bistro ambiance will makeit easy for you to return again.

Modern American dining

with a Mediterranean

twist? It's is as easy as

saying "Hye."

ZOV'S CAFE BAKERY & BAR21123 Newport Coast Drive, 949'760-Z0VS (9687), zovs.comMon. - Thurs., 11a.m. - p.m.; Fri., 11a.m. - 10 p.m.;Sat., 8 a.m. -10 p.m.; Sun., 8 a.m. - 9 p.m.

92 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

Page 5: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

94 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

Page 6: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

PAUL GSTREINBAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEFPAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE

restaurant, knows hospitality and food. Mter beginning his French culinarytraining at Villa Blanca Culinary School in his native Austria, and working fora famous German restaurant, Paul brought his already considerable knowledgeand experience to the United States at the age of 21.He considered it paramount to study some of America's most respected

establishments' food trends, and his impressive culinary skills earned himkitchen time at Wolfgang Puck's Beverly Hills Spago, Chicago's CharlieTrotter's, Bradley Odgen's San Francisco Lark Creek Inn and Mark Peel'sLos Angeles Campanile.His extraordinary resume piqued the attention ofJohn Ghoukassian, who,

after asking Paul to become executive chef at his Los Angeles Bistango senthim to inaugurate the Irvine Bistango and then his Bayside in 1999.Chef Paul's palate is among the most inventive and refined anywhere, and

his dishes promise the next level of flavors and combinations that begin withthe best local, seasonal ingredients.

96 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

BERNARD ALTHAUSBASILIC RESTAURANT CHEF & OWNERBORN AND RAISED ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE ALPS AND NURTURED AT HIS

family's Restaurant de La Gare in Canton de Vaud, a town in the French-influ-enced part of Switzerland, crafting French/Swiss cuisine is the lifelong passionof Basilic Restaurant's Bernard Althaus. "I was born in one of the rooms abovethe family restaurant," he says. "My first smell was that of food. It has been in myblood to become a chef since the day I was born."Educated in Lausanne, Bernard apprenticed at Chalet Suisse before coming

to the United States, where he served as the chef for French team of the 1970America's Cup. He then continued this journey as a private chef on charters inthe Caribbean before returning to Switzerland.In the early 1990s, Bernard relocated to Orange County and began

cooking alongside Ernst Zingg at The Cellar in Fullerton, spent almost twoyears at Newport Beach's Pascal restaurant, then worked more than five yearsat Mezzanine restaurant before opening Basilic in 1997.He harvests his own garden to produce the fresh herbs used in his dishes,

grows the yellow and red, organic, heirloom tomatoes found in the seasonalSpecial Salad and patronizes the local farmer's market everyday to pick up freshand organic (preferred) produce. In the kitchen, he prepares each dish and everydish to order, ensuring each plate is served to perfection.

Page 7: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

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Page 8: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

BLUEWATER GRILL

FALL 2009 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE 77

Page 9: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

BeyondThe BrieFromage is oh-so-much morethan a cube on a toothpick.

Bernard Althaus. chefand owner of BasilicRestaurant. with a roundRaclette cheese.

WINE TASTING IS OLD NEWS; WELCOME THE ERA OF

artisan cheese sampling, which is, in effect, almost exactlylike enjoying flights, savoring tidbits of creamy, tangy, sharpand earthy delights from around the globe, reflecting uponthe flavors caught on your palate.Zinc Cafe in Corona del Mar (3222 E. Coast Hwy.)

provides the perfect relaxing afternoon setting at which toenjoy one of its gourmet cheeses or cheese platters (alongwith a superb glass-or bottle-of wine). Try three cheesesfor less than $15, accompanied by nuts, dried fruit, crostinior crackers. Favorites served include Northern California'sgoaty Humboldt Fog, England's tangy Stilton and Spain'szesty Manchego. Not sure about what to taste or whichwines to pair with your savory snack? "Our full-time wineand cheese educator, who's here Wednesday to Sunday, ison hand to help out customers with selections," says generalmanager Tyler King.During the winter months (beginning in October)

Basilic Restaurant (217 Marine Ave.) features an all-you-can-eat "Raclette Night" the first Tuesday of each month.Raclette is a specialty cheese from the Canton du Valaisin Switzerland that is prepared by holding a round of thecheese close to the fire. As it melts, the softened part istraditionally scraped off and eaten hot with boiled jacketpotatoes, gherkins, pickled onions and topped with freshlyground pepper. Soup, salad, Swiss wines and the traditionaljacket potatoes, cornichons and pickled onions are served toaccompany the Raclette.If you want to savor artisanal cheeses as a starter for your

meal, try The Bungalow (2441 E. Coast Hwy.), whereyou'll discover a selection of fine cheeses hand-picked by the chef, servedwith pure wild honeycomb and a fig cake. It's an appetizer that comple-ments any hearty steak or seafood dish.To enjoy the flavor and fragrance of quality cheeses, The Wine Lab

(2901 West Coast Hwy., Suite 100) says inspect the cheese by rubbinga small piece between your fingers and inhale the aromatics, and thentake a small bite, allowing the cheese to coat your entire mouth. Followimmediately with wine, allowing for the alchemical transformation offlavors that occurs when a pairing is just right.Manchego is aged sheep's milk from Spain that goes great with any

red wine; Purple Haze, California goat cheese with lavender buds andwild fennel, pairs wonderfully with light wines; Mimolette, aged cow'smile from France, pairs with reds or beer; and MouCo Colorouge fromFt. Collins, Colo., presents a soft ripened, creamy texture with butterundertones and pairs with white or fruity, light reds.

78 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

Page 10: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

Nice PairLive by your own food and wine rules.WITH THE INNOVATION AND FUSION BEHIND CONTEMPORARY CUISINE, THE BROAD "RED WINE, RED MEAT;

white wine, white meat" platitude falls appallingly short for today's modern tastebuds."There's way too much mystique about wine," says Dennis Brask, executive chef for Corona del Mar's vener-

able Five Crowns. Patrons don't have to stick to the standard pairings, and selecting a pinot noir, a light-bod-ied red, to accompany your salmon will not cause the sommelier to faint dead away."Our ever-shrinking worldhas brought too many good wines to not sample them in different ways, in unique pairings," says Dennis.Match a wine's intensity with food flavor intensity so neither overpowers the other. Sweet chenin blanc,

Riesling or white zinfandel are a great complement to tomato, teriyaki or honey-mustard sauces; high acidflavors, like vinaigrette, soy or lemon, couple nicely with sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio or pinot noir; beef andlamb that's braised, grilled or prepared with a wine demiglace is always delicious with cabernet sauvignon,syrah or red zinfandel; medium flavors of some fish, poultry, game bird and pork love chardonnay, viognier,pinot nair, sangiovese and merlot.Order your wines by the glass for maximum variety. Create your own new rule, perhaps to reflect the

following gentle enjoyment guideline: Drink it; don't over think it.

Five Crown's free form lobster ravioli

(fresh herbed pasta robe with a savory

vanilla bean beurre blanc sauce and

butter poached lobster tail) is paired

with a Cardwell Hill 2007 Pinot Gris.

This Pinot Gris has an excellent acid

balance with a slight touch of residual

sweetness and makes a perfect

accompaniment for this dish.

HEAVENLY PAIRING

Five Crowns. hosts 'WinemakerDinners," featuring excellent foodcentered around one winery orregion. According to a wine'sprofile, complexity, et cetera, ChefDennis Brask creates a menu madeto complement the wine, not viceversa. Most recently. Five Crownsfeatured the wines of Bordeaux'sChateau Franc Patarabet pairedwith roasted prosciutto-wrappedquail, rosemary roasted leg ofColorado lamb, mushroom breadpudding. onion marmalade androasted peppers, and more.For more i·nformation: Five '

Crowns. 3801 E. Coast Hwy.; (949)760-033.1. lawrysonline.com.

80 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

Page 11: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

Mastro's Ocean Club~asterful Seafood and Steak Experience

ALWAYS UPSCALE AND NEVER UPTIGHT,

Mastro's Ocean Club invites guests to enjoy afine dining experience without any pretension orposturing. Part of the Scottsdale-owned Mas-tro's family,Ocean Club has a completely differ-ent look and feel from the sophisticated Mastro'ssteakhouses. Ituniquely welcomes guests withairy high ceilings, gorgeous water features,colorful artwork, a floor plan built around a coolloungy bar, and incredible sunset views.What sets Mastro's Ocean Club apart,

though, is its quality menu of primarily seafoodselections, and its pleasant, friendly service. "Ourservers are empowered to do whatever it takesto ensure guests have a great time," says regionaloperations director Jason Miranda. "Guests don'tjust come to Mastro's and leave, they truly comefor the experience."Keith Stich, chef, does great things with the

Ocean Club menu, presenting both delicatefish and hearty 400-degree steaks with thesame attention to detail. Dishes are platedsimply to show off their flavors, as there are nooverly complex presentations or complicated,overwrought entrees.Starters include a variety of salads and a

couple soup options, but to really get the

ball rolling, try the signature two-tiered icedseafood tower: snow crab, king crab, shrimp,mussels, oysters and more.Seafood entrees include succulent orange

roughy, sweet twin vanilla battered lobster tails,big-eye tuna sashimi style, a whopping poundof Alaskan king crab legs, sauteed sea scallops,and a flavorful filet of artic char "oreganata."For steakhouse lovers, there's an 8-ounce petitefilet, a 16-ounce New York strip or the massive22-ounce bone-in rib-eye, all served on platesheated to a scorching 400 degrees so that thesteak is warm throughout dinner. Portionsare large, particularly on side dishes, whichmeans they are perfect for sharing. The mostunforgettable side is the mashed potatoes withlobster-unbelievably decadent.But certainly not as decadent as the desserts,

which require indulgence no matter how satis-fied you were by the entree.The dessert menu'scrowning glory isMastro's ownwarm butter cake,a melty, rich sponge of pure sweet indulgence.Enjoy the live piano in the lounge nightly,

take advantage of some wicked cocktails orthe carefully selected wine list, and experiencethe cool vibe-and the great tastes-of thisextraordinary supper club by the sea.

MASTRO'S OCEAN CLUB8112E. Coast Hwy.• (949) 376-6990Sun. - Thurs .•5 p.m. -10 p.m.; Fri. & Sat.. 5 p.m. -11 p.m.Lounge: 4 p.m. -1a.m. daily

FALL 2009 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE 81

Page 12: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

Savoring

new flavors

at Kean's

Coffee

82 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

The Phenomof Terroir"Taste of place" isn't just for wine. Olive Oil

and BeyondMOST FOODIES ARE FAMILIAR WITH THE TERM

"terroir," pronounced "te-wah" with a throat gurgleat the hyphen. Loosely translated, it means "tasteof place," referring to flavors and characteristicsthat belie where something was grown. Regionalsoil, weather conditions and farming/harvestingtechniques all playa hand in producing geographi-cally distinct flavors. This phenomenon also holdstrue in the case of olive oil, coffee and certain otherbeverages.Olive oil is crafted all over the world, includ-

ing France, Spain, Japan, Chile, Australia, Tunisiaand, of course, California. "Geography absolutelydetermines flavor in olive oil," says Matthew Pour,principal and co-founder of Newport Beach's OliveOil and Beyond (210 Marine Ave., Unit A), pur-veyors of fine, organic olive oils. "The type of tree, the soil, the microclimate, weather-all these factors matter, and they create distinct taste."The Chetoui from Tunisia offers a light-medium intensity with low acidity and tan-

talizing fruit essences; the Athenolia finishes with hints of grass, pepper and earth; theAbrosana from Chile presents hints of apple, nut and butter; Chile's Arbequina is fruity,nutty, smooth; and California's Aceite Nuevo is buttery with a mild peppery finish.Coffee, grown in such far-flung reaches as Kenya, Sumatra, Ethiopia, Costa Rica and

more, is in every way very much a product of its environment: the soil, climatic patterns,rainfall, temperature all play important roles, says Martin Diedrich, owner of Kean Coffee(2043 WestcliffDr., Ste. 100). Kean's El Salvador La Lainez offers aromas of dried fruits

and flavors of green apple, raspberry, chocolate andcaramel; Yemen Mocca Sanani features aromas ofrosemary, sandalwood and spice, and flavors of blackcherry, dried figs, cardamom and citrus; Brazil Ambi-ental Fortaleza's wafts of caramel, chocolate, nectarineand toasted almond give way to flavors of pecan, driedapricot, malt, rosemary, cocoa and raw honey; PeruCajamarca, from the Amazon headwaters, offers adelicate, dried rose and citrus scent, and peach andapricot flavors with hints of honey and caramel.Even the recently unbanned absinthe is heavily infiu-

• enced by terroir; many famous absinthes are producedin the foothills of the French/Swiss Alps, in Pontarlierand Val-de-Travers. Hi-Times (250 Ogle St., CostaMesa) sells La Clandestine Absinthe 750, handcraftedin Couvet, Switzerland. Its terroir is vitally important todistiller Caude- Alain Bugnon-most of the plants usedin this award-winning absinthe, more than 10, all growin the foothills of the alps.

Page 13: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

CANAlETIO RISTORANTE VENETO

Beautyofthe BasicsSimple, honest ingredients blended withperfection yield the sweetest song.THE SYMPHONY OF PERFECTLY CRAFTED YET UNCOMPLICATED CUISINE

ends with a coda of intensely fresh and flavorful dishes that enhance-not cover or leave you guessing about-the essence of the food. Chefstoday tout an emphasis on the basics.Newport Beach's Canaletto Ristorante Veneto (545 Newport Center

Dr.) creates authentic Italian fare with Venetian emphasis, using freshgarden delights paired with made-daily pasta, fresh seafood, fine cuts ofbeef and free-range chicken; creamy and tahgy cheeses; and more. ChefAlfonso Sanna's Pollo aHoSpiedo beautifully blends rotisserie free-rangechicken with white wine and rosemary reduction, Salmone aHaGrigliafeatures grilled Scottish salmon with lemon-oil and parsley sauce, andBranzino al Sale is a succulent, whole Mediterranean sea bass bakedunder a salt crust or grilled.

84 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

At Sage at the Coast (7862 East Coast Hwy.), Chef Richard Meadbelieves cuisine prepared simply with unique whole foods is inherentlyelegant. "The key is sourcing local farmers to supply the highest qualityingredients, and then combining them in a way that allows their true fla-vors to come through," he explains. Chef Richard's passion has inspiredsuch dishes as Pan Roasted Sea Scallops, served with Weiser Farmsheirloom melon soup, Persian cucumbers and mint; and Roasted NewZealand Lamb Rack, with flagelot beans, cipoHini onions, cavolo nerokale and mushroom potato gratin.For yet more simple yet deeply satisfYingdining experiences try The

Bungalow (2441 East Coast Hwy.), Gulfstream (850 Avocado Ave.),Landmark Steak House (3520 E. Coast Hwy.) or Mastro's Ocean Club(8112 East Coast Hwy.).

Page 14: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

-----_ ...._--- --------

Ho SUM BISTRO PRIDES ITSELF ON ITS LIGHT

and healthful "Californiental" menu, colorfully andgenerously replete with fresh vegetables, lean chicken,succulent shrimp, tender noodles and piping broths.The menu is pretty comprehensive, featuring tradi-tional as well as creative fusion-inspired dishes, andthe portions are definitely generous.Perfect on a chilly winter day, Pho- Phun noodle

soup is a steaming bowl filled with Chinese ricenoodles, fresh veggies, shredded chicken breast andshrimp in a rich chicken broth. The Chinese PepperChicken gets the peppery part just right and is bal-anced nicely with bell pepper, celery, mushroom andonion; the Szechuan Chicken, roasted with garlic,ginger, scallions and cilantro, and served on the bonewith Ho Sum's special sauce, tantalizes with the per-fect blend of tangy, salty and the right hint of hot.Sundays all-you-can eat dim sum brunch is one

feast you'll frequent after your first experience. Firstmake way for soup, either chicken with mushroomsand tofu, plump pot stickers or hearty hot andsour, and salad (more on that later); then come the

86 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE FALL 2009

SumYum!Ho Sum Bistro is the perfect spot for

healthy, plentiful "Californiental" dishes.

delights. Ho Sum's "little treasures" include potstick-ers, dumplings in a spicy cilantro sauce, tender lob-ster dumplings, poached wrapped wontons, crispycrab bellies with decadent crab and cream cheese, aShanghai spring roll filled with veggies, traditionalBao with lean barbecued pork in a bun and more.If you try only one thing, you must order an

absolutely magical dish heralded with trumpets byregulars, the combo salad: a combination of the HoSum, which is roasted and shredded chicken breastwith lettuce and red ginger dressing, and the SesameSalad, romaine tossed with sesame seeds, shreddedchicken and sesame oil and vinegar.Unfortunately, its seating isn't as generous as its

portions, but its intimate, bright and busy atmo-sphere, partly created by its curious "greenhouse"fa<;:ade,matches the warm and friendly greeting andservice Ho Sum's staff are known for. It lacks a beerand wine list, but you can bring your own, anytime,with no corkage fee. Check out the wall decor-it'sall done by local artists, it changes frequently andit's all for sale.

HO SUM BISTRO3112 Newport Blvd.(949) 675-0896hosumbistro.com.

1-

Page 15: By Ellyce Rothrockellycerothrock.com/Picurious.pdf ·  · 2012-10-05PAUL GSTREIN BAYSIDE RESTAURANT EXECUTIVE CHEF PAUL GSTREIN, EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR NEWPORT BEACH'S BAYSIDE restaurant,

DEN N IS BRASKFIVE CROWNS' EXECUTIVE CHEFFIVE CROWNS' EXECUTIVE CHEF DENNIS BRASK, SAYSHIS LIFE HAS

"alwaysbeen about food."But instead of culinary school, Dennis chased his college dreams of

becoming an engineer-working as a cook in a hospital kitchen. But histrue love called, and he began training in Midwest hotels, apprenticingunder highly talented Austrian, Swiss, German and French chefs andworking his way to executive sous chef.Mter some years as executive chef with Preferred Hotels and Resorts

across the country, including Playboy and Intercontinental, he was intro-duced to Lawry's and specifically Five Crowns, a company whose chefsat their respective restaurants (five at thattime) had more 100 years' tenure.Dennis says that although Five Crowns is

steeped in tradition, it has always been at theforefront, constantly staying abreast of impor-tant trends in the industry, like using local,sustainable, seasonal and organic ingredients."These are some of the inspiring conceptscurrently driving the direction of the menu,with an emphasis on small plates, combiningseveral 'tastes' as opposed to a full dinner," hesays. "I constantly seek and ask my contacts tosearch for new and unusual items to includein the ever-evolving menu."

FALL 2009 NEWPORT BEACH MAGAZINE 87