BY BROOK, RAILWAY AND EASTERN PARISH This area covers the mostly undeveloped area between the centre of the village and the railway line. It mostly consists of open pasture but does have a specific character due to the presence of the railway, the By Brook, the paper mill and the proximity of the built up part of the village itself. The area offers a variety of wildlife habitat and, being away from busy traffic routes, is rich in flora and fauna. The area is also important as a green buffer between the village and the busy A4 on the other side of the railway embankment and brook. Much of the parish enjoys views to this area and there is footpath access. The bridleway alongside the recreation ground, or Folly Field as it is traditionally known, leads to a stile and a gate and the bridleway and path continue across the fields to the By Brook and beyond. An overgrown wooded area to the east of the recreation ground is accessible from this path. The odd shaped field on the other side of the pathway seems to arise from the creation of the former tip belonging to the paper mill. The eastern part adjoins the By Brook and is narrow and shaded by large trees. There has been a mill of one form or another on the By Brook for more than 900 years. A corn and cloth mill was worked until the mid 18th century. At this time spring waters close to the mill were deemed to carry curative properties, and the property was purchased by the famous Dr Oliver who developed ‘Bathford Spaw’ here. Sadly nothing now remains of the 18th century mill, Dr Oliver’s house or the elegant Doric spa building covering the spring. A paper mill was established in the early 1800s. The current paper mill, owned and operated by Portals (Bathford) Ltd since 1973, is settled comfortably in the dip and has the look of an old moored barge with its chimney and escaping steam. The paper mill has very strong links with the village and everyone enjoys the familiar sound of the steam whistle four times a day, although it is apparently not needed these days. The field above the Paper Mill is entered at its top end by a newly fitted kissing gate. The march of electricity pylons continues its prominent way across this field. The field is mowing grass and there is an attractive stand of mature chestnut trees at the lower end and a small spring in the middle of the field. To the south there is an excellent view of the fine garden elevation of Whitehaven. To the north, Meadow Park in the distance is the main interruption to rural view. The western end of the field borders the rugby pitch and faces the valley towards Bath. A vehicle-width track leads from the paper mill into a large overgrown area that looks like an old quarry and landfill site. There has obviously been a lot of waste dumping here and the track through the quarry suffers badly from dog fouling. The landfill site closed in the early 1990’s and was restored to its original state over the following five years . The area contains tall mature trees and abundant wild flowers. It is a wildlife haven where badgers, foxes, rabbits and nesting buzzards have been seen. From the higher level there are beautiful views towards Bannerdown and Shockerwick. The area leads to the brook where there is a long drop to the weir. A track continues along the millrace to the paper mill. To the east a tunnel leads under the railway to the Box Road; to the west is a rickety stile and footpath leading back towards Whitehaven. The brook and millrace create an overgrown island downstream of the paper mill. Sadly the connecting Bailey bridge has fallen into disrepair, as the island looks neglected and enticing. The paper mill is located at the northeast corner of The Crown Field, which is owned by Portals and is used in winter by the rugby club, although flooding can be a problem. The field borders the By Brook to the north that is enveloped in overgrown trees and shrubs including attractive willows. There is a small beach-like area where the brook becomes more visible and trailing white flowers of water crowfoot can be seen. The water is cloudy but clean and flows through the low two-arched bridge on the Bradford Road. The field can be seen over the stone boundary wall as it flanks the Bradford Road and turns the corner into Bathford Hill and offers an attractive view at the western approach to the village. The field is lower than the road and a set of steps leads down to it. The Pound area lies to the west of the Bradford Road, next to the By Brook as it joins the River Avon in the shadow of the railway bridge. A century or so ago the village animal pound was a familiar feature; now it has all but disappeared, only the two stone gateposts remain next to the off-road parking area. Three paths lead from this point. One leads uphill,

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The By Brook meets the River Avon

to the railway bridge to share the river crossing with the railway. This path continues across the water meadows to Bathampton by way of some awkward stiles and gates. There are lovely views from the elevated railway bridge parapet despite the constant noise from the traffic on the bypass and the roar of the occasional train passing extremely close by on the other side of the chain-link dividing fence. There is often the smell of gas here and the system appears to require regular maintenance which often results in roadwork's at the bridge. The other two paths lead to the riverbank. Most of the riverside area is privately owned. It is a tranquil wooded area and the view across the river is beautiful, but it has been the scene of outdoor raves (the tree house for the sound system is still in evidence) and now has an air of neglect. The area is over-grown and suffers from debris and litter and some of the trees are damaged. The bridge over the By Brook dates from 1665 and there is a fine inscription still visible on the west side. The bridge carries the heavy traffic on the Bradford Road and the narrow pavement across the bridge is difficult and dangerous for pedestrians especially as the bridge narrows the road and goods vehicles sometimes have difficulty passing. To the east of the road is Lavington’s Yard, formerly a timber yard and now belonging to a demolition company. It is used for general dumping and, although screened by trees and foliage, is not the most attractive of areas, with a communications mast and large skips. Near here is the site for the new footbridge over the By Brook. The By Brook flows under the bridge and through a narrow and faster channel to join the river. The track of the old ford alongside the road is increasingly difficult to make out. The bank here is very overgrown with self seeded sycamore, willow and chestnut trees. Swans often nest in the little island below the road. The eastern end of the Parish is made up of several fields, some of which have interesting character features. The field along the eastern boundary of the Parish runs alongside Kingsdown Road and its northeast boundary follows the line of a stream and an overgrown hedge down the hill. The map suggests this may be the line of a roman track joining the Fosseway. The overgrown hedge provides good wildlife cover and deer are often seen. The shallow ford crossing the stream is enjoyed by children and dogs. The field has been set-aside for many years and the contours of the old munitions tunnel are clearly visible across the lower part. The lower end of the field borders the green road from Ashley Road to Lower Kingsdown and Ashley, which was a significant highway from medieval times. The only eyesore is the pylon line which traverses the field. On Ashley Road, opposite Further Garstons Farm, is Box Lane End field, also known as ‘Tump Ground’. This is a hilly grazing meadow surrounded by a well-kept hedge. From the Old Ashley Road, a kissing gate at the top of the field leads across the field to a stile in the middle of the lower hedge line. The footpath is not well used and the stile is somewhat overgrown. To the north is the field called ‘The Lays’ - another hayfield. The field has interesting ridges and contours of unknown origin and good mature ash trees on the boundaries. Two footpaths cross the field converging at the north-eastern corner at the By Brook. The higher part of the field offers lovely views towards Bannerdown and Solsbury Hill. Also next to the By Brook is the wonderfully named Mayforever Field, another hayfield. There is a well-used bridleway across the field and a good rider's gate where the track leaves the field to cross the footbridge over the By Brook. The track then leads to the Box Road via the small tunnel through the railway embankment. The area between the railway tunnel and the bridge is attractive with wildflowers and tall trees. From the field there are views northeast to Wormcliffe, Lower Kingsdown and north to Bannerdown Hill and the lines of neglected apple trees on the old Apple Farm. The sound of traffic on the Box Road is clearly audible. From the By Brook footbridge an overgrown track leads as far as the boundary fence to the Paper Mill. This is a lovely secluded area with many wildflowers and trees. Dragonflies and kingfishers can be seen. The ‘War-Office field’ is a cultivated field with no rights of way and is a continuation of the northeast boundary. From the centre of the field, the view is entirely rural and the village invisible. At the bottom of the field the view of the village re-emerges and the line of the munitions tunnel is clearly visible again. The sound of the stream in the hedgerow is pleasant and the water is very clear. In the southwest corner there is an unsightly dump. At the bottom of the war office field are the railway sidings, once used to take munitions to the Monkton Farleigh mines during WW2. Although this has now been made inaccessible for travellers vehicles which have caused difficulties in the past, it is now a derelict eyesore. A practical re-use for the site is difficult to imagine. Meanwhile rabbits and wildflowers thrive in the wilderness. From here the railway line can be crossed on foot. On the other side are steps down to the By Brook and the Box Road. On the south side, access back into the fields is by the Black Steps. There are two tunnels under the railway; one takes the bridle path from Mayforever Field, the other brings the By Brook from the north to the south of the railway. The area where the brook emerges from the tunnel feels slightly sinister; there is a derelict pumping station nearby and signs of substance abuse.

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SIGNIFICANT FEATURES for the By Brook Valley area Topography: Rising ground from By Brook valley to meet main village through route to the south. Access: Old track and footpath routes across open pasture. Tunnels through railway embankments. Road and footbridges across By Brook Street Pattern: Open pasture. Paper Mill in isolated location, but with historic links to village. Railway and brook

form northern boundary. Morphology: Little change to By Brook and fields over many years. Railway embankment from 19th century.

Paper Mill is a constant and important village feature. Semi-industrial area adjacent to brook grows and declines according to economic need.

Activities: Historically agricultural. Industrial activity linked to areas adjacent to By Brook. Area now mostly

tranquil rural buffer. Space: Open fields and the relationship with the built up area very important to character of village.

Natural foliage very important to character. Boundaries mostly hedged. Buildings: Area mostly undeveloped; associated built forms of footbridges, old stone road bridge and tunnels.

Stiles and gates on footpaths. Paper Mill main building. Some other minor industrial interventions. Materials/Detail: Stone and timber built bridges. GUIDANCE RECOMMENDATIONS:

Resist development on virgin pasture. Encourage retention and management of existing hedged boundaries and mature native trees Encourage maintenance of existing footpaths, bridle paths, stiles and gates. Encourage retention and maintenance of existing stone boundary walls. Encourage improvement and maintenance of parking place and riverbank at Pound area. Encourage maintenance of natural areas alongside By Brook. Views across open fields to be protected. Protect trees along By Brook banks. Resist any development on existing open land between High St. and the By brook.

POTENTIAL ACTIONS & ENHANCEMENT SCHEMES

Consider extension of footpath routes along By Brook. Consider grant aid for maintenance of walls and natural area at the pound. Consider new uses for former Paper Mill tipping area. Potential long-term strategy for undergrounding of high voltage cables.

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View of the village from the War Office Field

Sketch map of the By Brook valley area

The By Brook at Bathford. The track to the old ford is now difficult

to make out.

General countryside views throughout this area.

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Tunnel under the railway embankment. By Brook near the paper mill.

The WW2 munitions sidings for the Monkton Farleigh mines is now a derelict site.

Gate posts are all that remain of the Old Pound at Bathford Bridge.

Bathford Paper Mill Bathford Bridge, before the footbridge is installed the pavements are very narrow.

By Brook footbridge on the bridle path to the A4 The bridleway past the recreation ground towards the By Brook and beyond.

Ashley Road as it travels east out of the village. The old green road to Lower Kingsdown and Ashley, with a shallow ford crossing the stream.

By Brook valley area pictures