Special Advance ReleaseWines reviewed for the October 2010 issue,

in home August 19FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWSbuyingguide.winemag.com

Buying Guide

Vineyards north of Hammondsport on the west side of Lake Keuka, New York.

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95 Ghost Block 2007 Single VineyardCabernet Sauvignon (Yountville);

$100. A terrific Cabernet you want to cellar for agood 5–6 years, at the very least, and could go farlonger. Shows what Yountville can do in a goodyear. The wine is very dry and more minerally thanfurther north, yet is extraordinarily rich in black-berries, chocolate-covered cherries and cassis, witha perfumed scent of violets. The mouthfeel is allvelvet and satin—so pretty and refined. CellarSelection.

95 Robert Mon-d a v i 2 0 0 7

Reserve CabernetSauv ignon (NapaValley); $135. Bone dryand utterly balanced,with deeply powerful,long-lasting flavors ofblackberries and black

currants and an intense, but integrated, coating ofsmoky oak. But it’s also very tannic. Nothing softabout this wine. As fine a cellar candidate as anyMondavi Reserve in years. Should develop for 12,15, even 20 years. Cellar Selection.

95 Trinchero 2007 Cloud’s Nest Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount

Veeder); $50. A lovely Cabernet, brimming withcomplex blackberry, cherry, mineral, tobacco andcedar flavors that impress for their sheer power.Shows the firm, hard tannins this mountain alwayslends Cabs, but they’re so finely ground, the wineis drinkable now with a good decanting. Shouldage well for a decade. Editors’ Choice.

BUYING GUIDE

RIESLING

89 Belhurst 2009 Dry Riesling (Fin-ger Lakes); $19. There’s lots of zing

in this lush, fresh wine with ripe pineapple,melon and peach aromas. Tart tangerine notesmeld gorgeously with a bitter lime peel finish,giving added complexity to this intensely con-centrated although not quite “dry” Riesling. —A.I.

89 Chateau Lafayette Reneau 2008Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15.

This beautiful Riesling from Chateau LafayetteReneau opens with a delicate prickle of aciditythat’s wonderfully enticing on the tongue. Lushwith aromas of ripe yellow peaches and nec-tarines, it’s balanced artfully with a sharp, miner-ally edge and bright lemony acidity. Finishesquite dry. —A.I.

89 Swedish Hill 2009 Dry Riesling(Finger Lakes); $16. Crisp and

refreshing with notes of grated ginger, whiteflowers and cantaloupe. This dry Riesling bal-ances peachy fruit flavors with a steely backbone

of slate and lime, tart acidity and a pleasantlylong finish. Lovely all around. —A.I.

88 Belhurst 2009 Semi-Dry Riesling(Finger Lakes); $18. This aromatic

semisweet Riesling is a bouquet of jasmine blos-soms and luscious pears laced with lime andmusk. Sweet honeycrisp apples and powderedsugar on the palate meld with a tang of acidityand a long, mouthwatering finish. —A.I.

88 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2008 SemiDry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15.

There’s a whiff of summer—ripe yellow peachescaramelizing on the grill—trapped between themany layers of this honeyed, off-dry Riesling.The palate is polished with an undertone of wetstones and notes of freesia and grapefruit zest.Brisk acidity and a long, minerally finish roundout this cheerful yet focused wine. —A.I.

88 Lamoreaux Landing 2009 RoundRock Vineyard Riesling (Finger

Lakes); $20. There’s a hint of smoke through-out the nose and palate that adds a layer of com-plexity to this sweet, pretty Riesling. Aromas of

Continued on page 84

ew York’s Finger Lakes have longbeen one of the world’s most promis-ing growing regions for Riesling.“Most promising,” because franklymany of the wines haven’t lived up

to global expectations for what seems such an obvi-ous Riesling terroir. A cool, water-moderated cli-mate and hillside vineyards made Riesling seem agiven. But for many years, the focus was on any-thing but Riesling—Chardonnay had a run, as didCabernet Franc; Pinot Noir has some proponents.Finally, our latest tastings suggest that the regionas a whole is beginning to fulfill its vinous destinyas a producer of standout Riesling.

The Finger Lakes have always had their share ofgood Riesling producers—Wiemer, Frank, HeronHill, to name a few—but now there are dozens ofnames to know, not just a handful. The originalpioneers have been joined by a host of newer ven-tures, and the oldtimers have raised their games.In this issue, Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee Iijimaspotlights some of the noteworthy Rieslings from

her first round of tastings for Wine Enthusiast.Expect more of her reviews, covering other partsof the United States and venturing into someEuropean outposts, in upcoming issues.

For red wine lovers, this month’s Buying Guidealso features some great Cabernet reviews com-ing out of California. The 2007 vintage yieldedsome stunners, including noteworthy efforts fromsuch stalwarts as Mondavi and Chappellet, but alsofrom newer wineries, like Ghost Block. California-based Contributing Editor Steve Heimoff was alsoimpressed by the quartet of single-vineyard Syrahsfrom Novy Cellars.

Imports in this month’s collection include somegreat Grüner Veltliners from Austria, a bevy ofBrunellos di Montalcino from the great 2004 and2005 vintages and additional selections fromFrance, Spain and Australia. Finally, rememberthat you can access our collection of almost 90,000wine reviews (plus Spirits and Beers) via our Website: buyingguide.winemag.com. Cheers!

—JOE CZERWINSKI

New YorkUPSTATE, WHERE RIESLING RULES

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95 Zaca Mesa 2007 Grenache (SantaYnez Valley); $32. This spectacular

100% Grenache is a huge success. It’s so deli-cious, you can hardly stop drinking it. Just oozesin ra spberry and red cherry purée andcaramelized, smoky oak richness, yet is thor-oughly dry. An amazing, unforgettable wine thatestablishes a new benchmark for CaliforniaGrenache from this winery that was an early pio-neer in Rhône varieties. Editors’ Choice.

94 Astrales 2007Te m p r a n i l l o

(Ribera del Duero);$67. Shows almost allthat ’s great about theregion: dark, smoky, floralberry and chocolate aro-mas followed by juicy,acid-driven boysenberry,spice, bitter chocolate and

peppery flavors. An excellent effort for a toughvintage, with dynamite power and a poise. Drink2012–2018. Imported by Grapes of Spain.

94 Baxter 2007 Run Dog VineyardPinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $45.

An exotic Pinot of a type usually limited toAnderson Valley. It’s marked as much by gamy,mushroom and forest floor notes as by raspber-ries, cherries and red currants, with notes oflicorice and pepper. Drily crisp and elegantlyconstructed, this complex young wine shoulddevelop for 4–6 years.

94 Chappellet 2007 Signature Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $42.

This is the winery’s basic Cabernet, but there’snothing common about it. It’s dry and complexand moderately ageworthy, a hillside Cabernetthat revels in its plush, firm tannins and ripe fruit.There’s a minerality that seems to come from thesoil, with expressive blackberry, currant, choco-late and anise flavors. Really fine now after adecant, and should develop through this decade.

94 Pago de los Capellanes 2006Reserva (Ribera del Duero); $54.

Sensational RDD Reserva with dry, smoky, ele-gant aromas and then a super-juicy, fresh, finelyetched palate with composed cola, cherry, rasp-berry and more. This wine exhibits merit aftermerit; it’s complex yet easy to like. Really excel-lent for the money. Drink 2011–2018. Importedby Antalva Imports.

94 Stonestreet 2008 Lower RimChardonnay (Alexander Valley);

$55. Ultrarich, an oily, unctuous wine offeringtiers of pineapples, pears, limes and mangoes,enriched with sweet, smoky oak. Made in thesuperripe California style, yet always retains acrisp, dry elegance.

93 Baxter 2007 Oppenlander Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino); $60.

A fresh, vibrant but tight young Pinot Noir. It’srich in wild raspberry, cherry and cola flavors,enhanced with spicy oak, and firm in acidity andtannins. Should be cellared for a good 3–5 years.Cellar Selection.

93 Castello Banfi2005 Pogg io

alle Mura (Brunello diMonta l c ino ) ; $85 .Castello Banfi’s cru expres-sion of Brunello, Poggioalle Mura, is a dark anddelicious Brunello with avertical aromatic delivery

of blackberry, currants, plums, cola, mesquite andspice. Sweet oak flavors of vanilla spread over thepalate and the wine has impressive consistencyand persistency. Imported by Banfi Vintners.

93 Dutcher Crossing 2008 Bernier-Sibary Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry

Creek Valley); $39. Quite a beautiful Zinfan-del. It takes Dry Creek’s briary fruit and lifts it,although the wine retains a peppery, bramblycharacter. Blended with Petite Sirah, Carignaneand Mataro (Mourvèdre), it’s rich in wild rasp-berry, cherry, sweet cured tobacco, anise and san-dalwood flavors, with a squeeze of orangeessence.

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93 Ghost Block 2007 Estate CabernetSauvignon (Oakville); $60. A beau-

tiful Cabernet. Dark, dry and elegantly struc-tured, it has classic Napa tannins and is nicelytrimmed in acidity. The flavors are complex anddelicious, suggesting ripe blackberries, black cur-rants and cedar. Drink now–2015.

93 Lancaster 2009Samantha’s Estate

S a u v i g n o n B l a n c(Alexander Valley); $24.A worthy white wine to standbeside the winery’s estate red.Made from a single vineyard,it’s absolutely dry and bril-liantly crisp in acidity, withsubtle, complex flavors of

white peach, citrus fruits, minerals and whiteflowers. A touch of oak adds the perfect note oftoast. Very fancy and upscale. Editors’ Choice.

93 Magistrate 2007 Limited Produc-tion Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley);

$25. Great Zinfandel, showing Dry Creek Valleyat its best. The wine is dry and super-spicy, withcomplex, succulent wild berry, currant, licorice,bacon and pepper flavors, and just a touch ofsuperripe raisins on the finish. Really notable forthe quality of its fine tannins. Editors’ Choice.

93 Oakville Winery 2007 EstateGrown & Produced Cabernet

Sauvignon (Oakville); $46. Very ripe andextracted, almost jammy, with primary fruit fla-vors of blackberries, black cherries, red plums,currants, dark chocolate and spices. Deliciousand noble, but kind of immature. Give it 4–6years to soften and integrate, and it could developeven longer. Cellar Selection.

93 Shafer 2008 Red Shoulder RanchChardonnay (Carneros); $48. After

many years of cult stardom, Shafer’s Red Shoul-der Ranch still rules. It performs the difficult featof combining powerful richness with dry ele-gance. The pineapple, Meyer lemon and kaffirlime flavors are undergirded with a steely miner-alty, while oak and lees add rich tiers of interest.The 2008 is tarter than usual, making it a goodfoil against lobster risotto or grilled salmon with atropical fruit salsa topping.

93 Trinchero 2007 Haystack VineyardCabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak);

$50. A wonderful Cabernet, rich and dry. Thealcohol is fairly high, but in keeping with thewine’s power. The fruity blackberry and currantflavors are balanced by refreshingly earthy notesof olives and sweet herbs. Should developthrough 2013.

93 Val Sotillo 2004Reserva (Ribera

del Duero); $60. Wonder-ful on the bouquet, whereearthy notes blend perfectlywith alert, bright fruit aro-mas. This is a sizable, full-bodied wine with leather,lively fruit character and a

dose of rich chocolate. It’s in excellent shape andshows impressive balance and depth. Deliciousto the core, with heft and noticeable oak thatshould lessen if given more t ime. Drinknow–2019. Imported by Tradewinds SpecialtyImports.

92 Argiano 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $51. From one of the most beau-

tiful and historic estates in Montalcino, Argiano’sBrunello is redolent of cherry, cassis, exotic spice,smoke and very tame, delicate oak notes oftoasted vanilla. The wine is bright and polishedwith firm tannins and some sour cherry nuanceson the close. Imported by Vias Imports.

92 C. Beck 2007 Petite Sirah (NapaValley); $38. A very good, even noble

Petite Sirah whose classic structure expresses thevariety’s personality in an elegant way. Tannic anddry, it’s a big, fruity wine, with notes of blackber-ries, coffee, dark chocolate and tar. Now–2013.

BUYING GUIDE

92 Dierberg 2007 Chardonnay (SantaMaria Valley); $32. A lovely Chardon-

nay, bone dry and rich, that shows how well thiscool Santa Barbara valley can develop the variety.With crisp acidity and a tang of minerals, thewine is citrusy and floral, with opulent notes fromoak barrels and creamy lees.

92 Star Lane Vineyard 2006 CabernetSauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley);

$42. Quite a sophisticated Cab, and one thatshows the promise of Happy Canyon, whichbecame an appellation this year. The wine ismuch drier and leaner than anything in Napa,but quite elegant and intense in blackberries,black currants and dried herbs. It’s a worthy suc-cessor to the very fine 2005. The alcohol is15.1%.

92 The Old Faithful 2005 NorthernExposure Grenache (McLaren

Vale); $38. Starts off with intriguing aromas ofcoffee, clove and plum that segue into dark,warming flavors. It’s full bodied, lush and almostcreamy in texture, with supple tannins that onlyhint at their presence before fading into a long,licorice-tinged finish. Best now–2013. Importedby USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice.

92 Trinchero 2007 Chicken RanchVineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

(Rutherford); $35. A seriously good wine.Shows classic elegance in the dryness, fine tan-nins and restrained flavors of blackberries, blackcurrants and cedar. Feels really refined in themouth, with an herbaceousness that bothgrounds it and balances the fruit. Now–2013.

92 Trinchero 2007 Vista MontoneVineyard Daybreak Block Merlot

(Napa Valley); $35. A lovely Merlot, dry andoaky and earthy, with a rich vein of cherries, vio-lets, red licorice and spicy bacon. Defines ele-gance, with a gentle scour of tannins. One of thedrier, classier Merlots out there. Great with ajuicy steak.

91 Fuligni 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $75. Here’s an austere and

sophisticated Brunello with a slightly brownishhue to its garnet color and aged aromas of driedcurrants and forest berries, spice, mesquite, soysauce and licorice. The wine is exceedingly silkyand drying in the mouth. Imported by Empson(USA) Ltd.

91 Side Job 2008 C5Stefani Vineyard

Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val-ley); $25. This very dry wineshows the spicy, briary flavorsof Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel.The flavors are of wild blackand red berries, currants, bram-bly nettles, pepper, Chinese 5spice, espresso and a hint of

earthy dark chocolate. Quite a fine, complexdrink that wants smoky, charred meats, like bar-becued ribs, pork, or a rich grilled steak.

91 Trinchero 2007 Chicken RanchVineyard Merlot (Rutherford);

$35. Dry and tannic, a Merlot that’s the oppositeof softly luxurious. But it’s extremely elegant withits cherry, red currant and bitter cherryskin fla-vors, and shows true complexity throughout. Justcries out for a fine steak, in a brown butter, softcheese and garlic sauce.

91 Trinchero 2007 Meritage (NapaValley); $50. Tough and gritty in tan-

nins, with a mouthfeel like you’re chewing onsandpaper. Yet this Bordeaux blend is very rich infruit, with a solid core of blackberries, black cur-rants, anise and violets, sweetened with toast oak.Decant this classy Bordeaux Blend for a fewhours before serving.

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91 Windsor Sonoma 2008 Chardon-nay (Russian River Valley); $20.

This is a firm, dry, minerally Chardonnay. It’s notblockbuster rich, but it is clean and vibrant andelegant. The flinty flavors are enriched with notesof pineapples and green apples, while oak andlees give hints of buttered toast and sour cream.A very fine, food-friendly wine that sommeliersshould be aware of. Editors’ Choice.

90 Cobblestone 2005 CobblestoneVineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Napa Valley); $69. Clearly well-orig-ined, to judge from the fine structure andessential purity. But it’s a very tannic, closed wine,with a mouth-numbing astringency that accentu-ates the acidity. Even so, it’s so ripe in blackber-ries and currants it’s almost drinkable now, with agood decant. But you’re best off cellaring a good4–6 years. Cellar Selection.

90 Col d’Orcia 2005Brunello di Mon-

talcino; $55. An improve-ment over past vintages,thanks to the elegance of itsfruit and the richness of itsconsistency. The wine isbursting with cherry and cas-sis flavors and it shows har-

mony and a firm, streamlined nature to itsmouthfeel. Imported by Palm Bay International.

90 Dierberg 2008 Steel Chardonnay(Santa Maria Valley); $32. Made

without any oak influences, this wine shows thesplendors of great Santa Maria Chardonnay. It’smarked by complex flavors of Meyer lemons,pineapples, orange zest and honeysuckle, and is beautifully bright in crisp acidity. Nice withfresh crab.

90 Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley);

$16. Dry, dry, dry is the name of the game withthis Sauvignon Blanc. It’s rich in Meyer lemon,kaffir lime and pineapple flavors, with intense,zesty acidity for clean balance, and the finish isspicy and stimulating. A beautiful cocktail wine toget a fancy dinner started. Editors’ Choice.

90 MacRostie 2008 Chardonnay(Sonoma Coast); $25. A very good,

useful Chardonnay that’s easy to drink, yet alsoquite complex. Brisk and crisp in acidity, it showscitrus mineral, green apple and floral notes,touched with smoky oak.

90 Mauritson 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Dry Creek Valley); $17. Mauritson

has been building up a pretty good track recordwith their unoaked Sauvignon Blanc. This ’09shows the balance of the vintage, with excellentacidity, modest alcohol and complex varietal fla-vors that range from citrus fruits and apples tospices and gooseberries. It’s unusually good forthe price. Editors’ Choice.

90 Miraflores 2007 Méthode Anci-enne Syrah (El Dorado); $25. This

is a wonderfully soft, complex Syrah. Completelydry, it offers waves of raspberries, red currants,mocha, licorice, sandalwood and dusty Indianspices that linger on through a long finish. A veryfine, medium- to full-bodied red wine for drink-ing now.

90 Perry Creek 2007Altitude 2401 Dark

Forest Syrah (El Dorado);$28. A distinctive Syrah thatshows great concentration in thefocused b l ackber ry, swee tleather, dark chocolate, mineraland black pepper flavors. Beyondthe power, the wine is bone dry,soft in acidity and quite tannic.The end result is impressive, andready to drink now.

BUYING GUIDE

90 Rocland Estate 2008 Grenache(Barossa Valley); $21. Superripe

fruit, befitting a hot year, suggests early consump-tion may be the best option for this supple, lus-cious wine. There’s bits of spicy, leatherycomplexity to go with the intense black cherryfruit. Drink now–2013. Imported by RoclandWine Imports. Editors’ Choice.

90 Trinchero 2007 Central Park WestVineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St.

Helena); $35. Nice and dry, with firm, hardtannins and rich flavors of blackberries, cherriesand dark chocolate. The oak is pretty strong,offering a coating of caramel. Shows a full-bod-ied, masculine Cabernet character that needs agood decant to aerate the tannins. Should agethough 2013, at least.

90 Z’IVO 2006 Pinot Noir (Eola-AmityHills); $35. This is estate-grown, a mix

of five Pinot Noir clones, from an excellent vin-tage. Perfumed and showing floral and berryaccents, the wine hits the palate like a soft, wetkiss. Light and gentle, yet penetrating and seduc-tive, the tannins have been nicely managed andkeep the wine, as the winery notes, “disturbinglyquaffable.”

89 Kirkland Signa-ture 2007 Signa-

ture Series MountainCuvee Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley);$18. Great price for thisrich wine. It shows the den-sity and concentration ofmountain fruit, and also thetannins, with bone-dry fla-

vors of blackberries and currants as well as hintsof licorice and Canadian bacon. Good now with afew hours of decanting, and should develop inthe bottle through 2013 or so. Editors’ Choice.

89 Magistrate 2006 Limited Produc-tion Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan-

der Valley); $29. A little extra time in thebottle has yielded a softly attractive Cabernetfilled with lush flavors. It has complex tiers ofraspberries, cherries and tobacco, with gentletannins and a light, spicy touch of sandalwood.Pretty and polished now.

88 Perry Creek 2007Zinman Zinfandel

(El Dorado); $14. A lovelyZinfandel, soft and dry, withluscious cherry, raspberry andsandalwood flavors, dustedwith pepper and cocoa. Easy todrink and versatile with every-thing from pizza to a grilledsteak. Editors’ Choice.

88 Viñas del Vero 2007 La Mirandade Secastilla Garnacha (Somon-

tano); $15. Sweet and full of raspberry aromas,foresty scents and sandalwood. Overall it’s a well-made, intriguing Grenache with a fleshy, sturdybody and deep cherry, berry and chocolate fla-vors. It’s a bit tannic, but that only helps thestructure. Finishes nicely, with dry spice andvanilla notes. Imported by San Francisco WineExchange.

87 Kenwood 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Sonoma County); $13. Made in a

wonderfully dry, crisp style, Sauvignon Blancslike this fill a much-needed niche in fruit-heavyCalifornia. It’s zesty and minerally, with lemon,lime and grapefruit flavors. Beautiful as a cocktailsipper, or with the perfect roast chicken.

87 Kirkland Signa-ture 2007 Signa-

ture Series CabernetSauvignon (Stags LeapDistrict); $19. Softly lush,a nice, fruit-forward Caber-net to drink now. Showswell-ripened blackberry andblack currant flavors, fin-ished with a touch of smoky

oak. Good price for a Stags Leap Cab.

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87 Pagos del Rey 2007 El Circulo Cri-anza (Rioja); $14. Sort of scratchy and

generic on the nose, with reasonably fresh redfruit aromas. The mouthfeel is angular andclipped by piercing acidity, while the flavors areof nice but regular black cherry and plum. Fairlyjuicy and fresh as a whole. Imported by LuneauUSA Inc.

86 Korbel 2008 Brut Made WithOrganically Grown Grapes (Cali-

fornia); $16. This is a nice, dry sparkling wine,rich in citrus, apple, yeasty brioche and spice fla-vors. The bubbles are a little ragged, giving it ascoury mouthfeel. But for the price, it’s a finebubbly.

85 Spartico NV Organic Wine Tem-pranillo (Utiel-Requena); $12. A

clean, nice, regular Tempranillo with normalblack cherry and berry aromas that offer hints ofrubber and bacon. The palate is tannic andgrabby but balanced for the most part, with pure,basic blackberry and cherry flavors. Modest in itsscope, but fresh and untainted. Imported by Nat-ural Merchants LLC.

84 Poggio Lungo 2007 Morellino diScansano; $22. Good growing condi-

tions in 2007 helped shape this bright, berry-driven wine from southern Tuscany. You’llrecognize aromas of cherry, blueberry and min-eral backed by a firm texture and sour cherry fla-vors. This is a simple, easy-drinking expression.Imported by R&R Wine Imports Inc.

90 Side Job 2008Z i n f a n d e l

(Sonoma County); $15.One sip is all it takes to lovethis wine, if you’re a Zinfan-del fan. It’s bone dry, silky intexture and spicy, wi thbrambly, briary flavors ofwild forest berries, red cur-rants, tobacco and beef

jerky. Feels really rich and savory, right throughthe long, peppery finish. And look at that price.

89 Acrobat 2009 Pinot Gris (Oregon);$12. Even better than the excellent

2008 Acrobat, this ups the alcohol to about 13%and gives the impression of dryness, though theremight be a trace of residual sugar. In any event,it’s loaded with pretty pear fruit flavor, lightlydusted with cinnamon spice, and fills the mouthwith its body and gentle hint of spritz. A finesummer sipper.

89 Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 FuméBlanc (Sonoma County); $12. This

is a delicious, balanced Sauvignon Blanc that’s theequal of many wines costing much more, whichmakes it a great value. It features lemon and limeflavors made richer by notes of pineapples andhoneysuckle. Entirely unoaked, it’s a great cock-tail sipper.

88 Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2006Rioja Bordón Crianza Tempranillo

(Rioja); $12. A nice, floral, medium-bodiedRioja that should not steer anyone wrong. Thenose is harmonized and not overpowering, whilethe feel is good and easy and the flavors of berry,plum and mild chocolaty oak work well together.Holds its line on the finish as well. Imported byAdmiral Imports.

88 Bonterra 2009 Riesling(Lake County-Mendocino

County); $13. Ultraclean and bright,as Bonterra’s wines nearly always are,this Riesling shows good varietal fla-vors of citrus fruits, peaches, wild-flowers and minerals. It’s bone dry,and the acidity is wonderfully mouth-cleansing. Try as an alternative toSauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio.

BUYING GUIDE

BESTBUYS

BESTBUYS

87 Line 39 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Lake County); $10. The curve on this

wine has been going up and up, and this ’09 istheir best yet. It’s bone dry and savory in acids,with ultraclean citrus, mineral and white flowerflavors. Just delicious as a cocktail sipper.

87 Marqués de Cáceres 2009 Rosé(Rioja); $9. Crisp, natural and lightly

salinic on the nose, with medium weight, goodfreshness and solid peach and citrus flavors. Thisis a standard but nicely done Rioja rosé with apithy finish and just the right edge to it. Drinkliberally with appetizers and you shouldn’t gowrong. Imported by Vineyard Brands.

85 Iranzo Fields 2009 Bobal Rosé(Utiel-Requena); $6. Almost red in

color, with dusty aromas that mix in a blast oflatex and dried cherry notes. The wine is madefrom organically grown Bobal grapes, and itoffers tang and bite along with crisp flavors ofplum skins, raspberry and citrus. Almost sour, butnot. A solid quaffer for the price. Imported byLatitude Wines, Inc.

84 Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Sauvi-gnon Blanc (California); $8. Bone

dry and ultracrisp in acidity, with citrus andlemongrass flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc is veryclean and invigorating. Better yet, the everydayprice is right.

84 Oak Grove 2009 Reserve PinotGrigio (California); $8. Absolutely

dry and tingly in acidity, this citrus-flavored wineis clean and zesty. It’s a fine appetizer sipper forcleansing the palate. Serve it with little munchies,like grilled veggies, goat cheese and crackers withcrab salad.

84 Redtree 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor-nia); $8. Good price for an everyday

Pinot Noir. It’s not particularly complex, butshows a nice, silky texture, with good acidity andfirm dryness. The flavors are of cherries and oak.

84 Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-

fornia); $8. A little thin in flavor, but honestand robust, with thick tannins framing blackber-ries, cherries, currants and herbs. A very goodprice for a Cab this easy to drink.

83 Bota Box 2009 Pinot Grigio (Cali-fornia); $19/3L. This boxed wine has

some problems, but at the equivalent of $4.75 abottle, and with the staying power of its vacuumtechnology, it’s a pretty good buy. Bone dry andcrisp, it has pleasant citrus fruit, vanilla and pep-pery spice flavors.

92 Finlandia GrapefruitFusion (Altia Corp., Hel-

skinki, Finland); 37.5% abv,$19. Opens with a fruity, slightlyoverripe aroma, very close to truegrapefruit. The flavors of pomeloand lychee are pleasing and moredry than sweet, finishing with atouch of anise and moderate bite.

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SPIRITS

honeysuckle blossoms combine with the fresh-ness of pressed apples and a bright, high-tonedacidity. Smoke, slate and stone kick in to create along, elegant finish. Overall, a well balanced,enjoyable wine. —A.I.

88 Lamoreaux Landing 2009 YellowDog Vineyard Riesling (Finger

Lakes); $20. From start to finish, there’s somuch going on with Lamoreaux Landing’s YellowDog. Honey and orange blossom aromas arelaced with a whisper of musk. The bright lemon-lime sweetness is balanced elegantly with a dis-tinct minerality evocative of smoke, slate andstone, and a bracing acidity that drives a lingeringfinish. —A.I.

88 Shaw 2007 Dry Riesling (FingerLakes); $18. Benefits of bottle aging

show well in this late release by Shaw. Clean andminerally with a shower of freshly squeezedlemon and honeysuckle on the nose, this almostdry Riesling is lush with honey and white peacheson the palate. There’s a sleek backbone of steeland slate that adds elegance to a lingering whitetea finish. —A.I.

87 Damiani 2009 Riesling (FingerLakes); $16. Ripe yellow peaches and

cantaloupe combine elegantly with a hint of wetstones on the nose. A nice, tart acidity, steelybackbone and a bitter citrus pith finish give thisoff-dry Riesling structure and balance. —A.I.

87 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2008 DryRiesling (Finger Lakes); $15. Quite

dry on the palate, this seductive Riesling exhibitsaromas of honeyed ginger with a hint of smokeand petrol. Lime and apple flavors combine witha zippy acidity and subtle minerality throughout.—A.I.

87 Glenora 2008 Dry Riesling (FingerLakes); $18. This wonderfully refresh-

ing, dry Riesling is redolent of ripe honeydewmelon and freshly pressed Granny Smith apples.Lime and a nice steely backbone combine mid-palate with the sour tang of lemon drops and alingering bitter almond finish. —A.I.

87 Glenora 2009 Riesling (FingerLakes); $16. There’s hominess to this

cheerful, semisweet Riesling that brings apple-sauce and golden honey bears to mind. A touchof pink grapefruit juice and pith, along with

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92 Van Gogh Oranje (VanGogh Vodka, Dirkzwager

Distilleries, Schiedam, Holland);40% abv, $27. The sweet, high butslightly orange-soda ersatz scentaccurately reflects the equally sweetand intensely orange taste of thisvodka. Because it finishes smooth,with rounded orange and tangerinenotes and a Cognac-like, warmingtouch of honey, it’s addictively sip-pable.

90 Finlandia Lime Fusion(Altia Corp., Helskinki,

Finland); 37.5% abv, $19.Despite a faint lime-lollipop scent,the flavor of this vodka tilted moretoward lemon than lime, with per-haps a touch of lime-leaf essence.The subtle flavor and light feelwould make for a polished, high-end cocktail.

88 Finlandia TangerineFusion (Altia Corp.,

Helskinki, Finland); 37.5%abv, $19. The flavors are morereminiscent of pear than orange,and lead to a mouthwatering finish,with just the right amount of bite tobalance it out. Juicy, almost toooverripe tangerine scent.

87 Bohemia Clásica (Ger-man Pilsner; Cerveceria

Cuauhtemoc Moctezuma, Mex-ico); 5.3% abv, $9/6 pack. Poursa pale straw color with a small headthat falls fast. The aromas are faintbut clean, with notes of sweet grains,softly floral hops and a hint of yeast.The taste is clean and well balanced,with nice earthy hops adding a touchof bitterness to the finish alongside the grainymalt backbone. A hint of sweet vanilla beanappears on the finish. Light and thin but notwatery; definitely a versatile, food-friendly brew.

86 Cable Car Small Batch Lager Beer(American Adjunct Lager; Cable

Car Brewing Co, NY); 4.8% abv, $7/6pack. Light straw-colored in the glass. There’s aslight metallic note in the bouquet alongside hintsof sweet malt. Clean and straightforward in themouth with an overall light flavor profile, offeringhints of citrus and more sweet grain flavors. Lightbodied and easy to drink with a clean finish; anexcellent session beer.

BUYING GUIDE

SPIRITS BEER

CORRECTIONIn the August issue an incorrect imageappeared with the following review.Here is the correct review and image.

94 V i n e y a rd 7 & 8 2 0 0 7Estate Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Spring Mountain); $125.Bring this bottle straight to the cellar.

Don’t even think about opening it before, say, 2013.All you’ll get is a mouthful of hard, sandpapery tan-nins. But it’s a very deeply flavored Cabernet,packed with massive blackberry, black currant,plum and cedar flavors, and there’s a granitic min-erality that must come from the soil. Very finelycrafted. Cellar Selection.

BEERBESTBUYS

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refreshing acidity, add finesse to a long, lingeringfinish. —A.I.

87 Keuka Spring 2009 Riesling (Fin-ger Lakes); $14. Laced with baked

apples, ginger and savory spices, there’s some-thing unique about the nose on this off-dry Ries-ling. On the palate, honeyed apples and pearscombine with a tart lemon-lime acidity and a hintof bitterness on the finish. —A.I.

87 Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $13.

Bitter lime peel and an elegant steeliness givestructure to the sweet, fresh apples that domi-nate this off-dry style Riesling. Bright lemon-limeacidity leads to a mouthwatering pucker on thefinish. —A.I.

87 Wagner 2008 Dry Riesling (FingerLakes); $13. This is a gorgeously per-

fumed Riesling, chock-full of white flowers andripe, juicy stonefruit, but not at all cloying. Dryon the palate, it exhibits elegant peach and apri-cot flavors that lead to a long, lingering finishmarked by lime peel and a hint of chalk. —A.I.

86 Billsboro 2009 Riesling (FingerLakes); $16. Bright with fresh apple

and pear aromas, this off-dry style Riesling is asunny, cheerful wine that melds the sweetness oftangerines with a high-toned acidity. —A.I.

86 Heron Hill 2008 Dry Riesling (NewYork); $13. Subtle aromas of freshly cut

grass and crisp Asian pears make this clean, dryRiesling a refreshing sipping wine. A tingly acidityand citrus pith notes linger playfully on thepalate. —A.I.

86 Lakewood 2008 Dry Riesling (Fin-ger Lakes); $13. A dry-style Riesling

with fresh apple, pear and petrol aromas, and apersistent minerality throughout. It’s simple andstraightforward, but there’s a refreshing lemonadeacidity and a hint of lime zest at the finish. —A.I.

86 Lamoreaux Landing 2009 DryRiesling (Finger Lakes); $13. Melon

and jasmine aromas abound in this light, refresh-ing Riesling offering glimpses of white peach,lime and slate on the palate. A hint of bitteralmond adds complexity to the finish. —A.I.

86 Ravines 2008 Dry Riesling (FingerLakes); $17. Sunny and warm on the

nose with aromas of honey, roasted hazelnuts anda touch of petroleum, this medium-bodied dryRiesling surprises with an unexpected austerityin the mouth. It’s an interesting transition, how-ever, resulting in a sleek, steely wine with hints ofchalk dust, bitter lime and canned pineapple fla-vors. —A.I.

86 Rooster Hill 2008 Dry Riesling (Fin-ger Lakes); $16. Overall, this elegant

wine is dry with just a touch of stonefruit sweet-ness. Lemon yellow in color, there’s brightnessthroughout with ripe apricots, honey and yellowfreesia on the nose. A polished minerality andorange pith bitterness help keep things in bal-ance. —A.I.

85 Arbor Hill 2009 Riesling (FingerLakes); $13. There’s nothing subtle

about the powerful elderflower, jasmine tea andripe melon aromas that perfume this heady Ries-ling. It’s made in a ripe, off-dry style but finishessurprisingly dry. An interesting wine, but the aro-matics may be a bit dizzying. —A.I.

85 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2009 Ries-ling (Finger Lakes); $12. A perfect

companion to the fall harvest season, this easy-drinking Riesling is evocative of candied applesand warm apple pie spice. There’s not a lot ofcomplexity, but it’s light and fresh in the mouthwith a puckery lime and sour patch candy finish.—A.I.

85 Heron Hill 2008 Semi-Sweet Ries-ling (New York); $13. Mouthwater-

ing, high-toned acidity and a pleasant lemon-limebitterness keeps the honeyed apple characteris-tics of this semisweet style Riesling in balance.Elegant mineral and petrol notes lead to a linger-ing, puckery finish. —A.I.

85 Keuka Spring 2009 Semi SweetRiesling (Finger Lakes); $14. Mulled

apple cider, ginger and candied orange peel aro-mas perfume this easy-drinking Riesling. Tartacidity and a kick of apple pie spice meld play-fully with the semisweet palate. A nice wine forcasual autumn entertaining. —A.I.

85 Knapp 2009 Riesl ing (FingerLakes); $15. Sweetened with a concen-

tration of juicy, ripe pineapple and tropical fruit onboth the nose and palate, this is an uncomplicatedand fruity off-dry Riesling. A tart, zingy aciditybalances the sweetness on the finish. —A.I.

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new releases and selected older wines evaluated by WineEnthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters.On a regular basis the Buying Guide includes reports onspecial tastings and the wines of specific producers. Regularcontributors to our Buying Guide include Senior Editor/Tasting Director Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting DirectorLauren Buzzeo, Tasting Coordinator Anna Lee Iijima, Exec-utive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, and Contributing EditorMichael Schachner in New York, European Editor RogerVoss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome,Contributing Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland and Con-tributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle. If a wine was evalu-ated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appearfollowing the note. When no initials appear, the wine wasevaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tastingnote reflect the input of all tasters.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the wine,its suggested national retail price, and a tasting note. If pricecannot be confirmed, $NA (not available) will be printed.Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSTastings are conducted individually or in a group setting andperformed blind or in accordance with accepted industrypractices. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When pos-sible, wines considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORESRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular wine.Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompany-ing tasting note to learn about a wine’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality.Superb 94–97: A great achievement.

Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended.Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended.

Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;often good value.

Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-critical circumstances.

Wines receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONSEditors’ Choice wines are those that offer excellent qual-

ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a wine at any pricewith unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are wines deemed highly collectibleand/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cel-lar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection des-ignation does not mean that a wine must be stored to beenjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a moreenjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaringwill be indicated.

Best Buys are wines that offer a high level of quality inrelation to price. There are no specific guidelines or for-mulae for determining Best Buys, but they are generallypriced at $15 or less.

SUBMITTING WINES FOR REVIEWWines should be submitted to the appropriate reviewinglocation as detailed in our FAQ, available online viawinemag.com/contact. Inquiries should be addressed toAssistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo at 914.345.8463 oremail tastings@wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge forsubmitting wines. We make every effort to taste all winessubmitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all winessubmitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in themagazine. All wines must be accompanied by a submissionform, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Wineries and wineryrepresentatives are given the opportunity to submit labels,which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notesand scores. For information on label purchases, contactDenise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; oremail dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

THE WINE ENTHUSIASTBUYING GUIDE

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BUYING I GUIDE

85 Knapp 2009 Dry Riesling (FingerLakes); $15. A distinct headiness to the

gardenia blossoms that perfume this Riesling con-trasts with the bright, tropical pineapple, candiedfruit and tangerine flavors that dominate in themouth. A touch of minerality and racy acidityround out the finish. —A.I.

85 Swedish Hill 2009 Riesling (FingerLakes); $16. This off-dry Riesling

seems herbal on the nose with a hint of fresh cutgrass and bark, but in the mouth, it’s all bright,ripe tropical fruits and tangerine. Medium bodiedwith a racy acidity to offset the sweetness. —A.I.

85 Treleaven 2008 Semi-dry Riesling(Finger Lakes); $14. Distinctly grassy,

vegetal aromas add savoriness to this light-bod-ied, semi-dry style Riesling. On the palate, thereare hints of quince, lemon and apple tinged withslate adding depth to an otherwise uncomplicatedwine. —A.I.

85 Waters Crest 2009 Dry Riesling(New York); $24. Intense aromas of

day lilies, honey and spiced canned peachesabound in this not quite “dry” Riesling. Themouth feels a bit confected with so much sunnyorange marmalade and lemondrop flavors, butthe finish ends drier with a hint of bitter orangepith. —A.I.

84 Four Degrees of Riesling 2009 2ndDegree Riesling (Seneca Lake);

$13. Third in Three Brothers’ series of four Ries-lings, this bottling is accurately labeled as semi-sweet, although certainly sweeter than the 1stDegree. There’s a consistency through the serieswith a savory nose of anise, fennel and petroleum.The mouth is full of ripe fruit—this time juicyhoneydew and tangerines—and a hint of jasminetea that adds astringency to the finish. —A.I.

84 Four Degrees of Riesling 2009 1stDegree Riesling (Seneca Lake);

$13. The second in Three Brothers’ series offour Rieslings, this wine would be more accu-rately described as semisweet. There’s a familiarhint of fennel and petroleum on the nose here,contrasted by a bright lemon-honey sweetnessand hints of grapefruit. —A.I.

84 Keuka Lake Vineyards 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes); $15.

Aromas of lime, honey and petroleum mesh wellwith a hint of fresh brioche in this off-dry style

Riesling. The flavor profile is a bit bony, featuringlemon, underripe nectarine and bitter greenalmonds, but there’s a pleasant silkiness to thetexture of this wine. —A.I.

84 Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Red OakVineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes);

$20. Delicate white flowers and honeydew mel-ons perfume this light, crisp Riesling with hints ofstone and slate. There’s an elegant mineralitythroughout, but its austerity may come off as atad dilute. —A.I.

84 Penguin Bay 2009 Semi-SweetRiesling (Finger Lakes); $15. Notes

of honey and baked apple waft curiously amidwhite floral aromas on this semisweet Riesling.The perfume can be a tad cloying, competingwith sweet lychee and pink grapefruit flavors onthe palate, but white tea on the finish adds ele-gance and restraint. —A.I.

84 Standing Stone 2009 Riesling (Fin-ger Lakes); $14. There’s plenty of

freshly squeezed lemon and apple flavor in thiscrisp, racy wine. Behind the honey and petrolaromas, however, there’s a slightly industrial, rub-bery note lingering in the backdrop. Nice tartacidity finishes with a hint of sour apple candy onthe palate. —A.I.

83 Billsboro 2008 Dry Riesling (FingerLakes); $16. Lean and austere in style,

this dry Riesling offers steely notes, savory herbsand crisp pears combined with a shot of intense,lemon-lime acidity. —A.I.

83 Four Degrees of Riesling 2009 0Degrees Riesling (Seneca Lake);

$13. Although it’s the driest of Three Brothers’series of four Rieslings showcasing increasingsweetness levels, this wine would be more accu-rately described as off-dry in style. The nose isdistinctly savory with hints of fennel, ramp andpetroleum. On the palate, there’s a surprisingsunburst of lemon and lime balanced with a briskacidity. —A.I.

82 Hunt Country Vineyards 2009 DryRiesling (Finger Lakes); $14.

Restrained both aromatically and on the palate,this Riesling offers modest hints of green appleand pear combined with a slightly herbal note.There’s not a lot of complexity or concentration,but it’s a brisk, refreshing wine. —A.I.

OREGONRED WINESPINOT NOIR

93 Le Cadeau 2008 Serendipity PinotNoir (Willamette Valley); $65. Full

and rich, this seductive wine, crafted by TonyRynders, has a little extra in terms of fruit, impactand finishing power. Ripe strawberry, cola, sweethay, nougat and a penetrating midpalate that isconcentrated but not jammy. The finish seems togather strength, and resonates beautifully for sev-eral minutes after you swallow. —P.G.

92 Aubichon Cellars 2008 ReservePinot Noir (Willamette Valley);

$42. Wow! Right away your mouth is poundedwith gorgeous blackberry fruit—it’s like gulpingdown a fresh-picked bucket of berries. There is alovely softness here, but plenty of acidity anddepth as well. Though the tech sheet lists twothirds new oak barrels, the fruit is so fresh andfull and luscious that they fade into the back-ground, leaving just a ghostly trail of cracker andbutter in the resonant finish. —P.G.

92 Le Cadeau 2008 Rocheux PinotNoir (Oregon); $47. The Rocheux

bottling comes from a vineyard parcel with espe-cially rocky soil, and there is a heightened miner-ality along with a racy, well-defined edge to thewine that the French call “nerveux.” It’s a thrill totaste if you race along with it and if you like amore acidic style, with tart raspberry fruit as yourcompanion. The finish brings in leaf and vanilla,all in context and perfectly balanced. —P.G.

91 Boedecker Cellars 2007 CarltonH i l l V i n e y a r d P i n o t N o i r

(Willamette Valley); $50. A detailed and del-icate bottle that captures the grace and evanes-cence of the grape. It’s scented with fruit andspice and incense; flavors mingle the same ele-ments in perfect harmony. There’s a pleasing soft-ness in the mouth, a velvety embrace that wrapsinto a long finish. Drinking well already, butprobably a good bet to cellar for another six toeight years. —P.G.

91 David Hill 2007 BlackJack PinotNoir (Willamette Valley); $45. With

its Ace-Jack of spades on the label, this dark andmoody Pinot Noir seems to say “call my bluff, I

W i n e M a g . c o m | 8 7

dare you!” But it’s not a bluff—the flavors are realand substantial, with black fruits, red licorice, colaand smoke threading their way into a tannic,meaty finish. —P.G.

91 LaVelle Vineyards 2008 Matthew’sReserve Pinot Noir (Willamette

Valley); $36. The winery notes that this is theirfirst reserve quality Pinot Noir since 1998—aremarkable statement. It reaches for that extrasomething without blowing itself out of propor-tion, retaining the varietal elegance so nicely dis-played in the regular 2008 bottling. This is bigger,tighter and harder—with more tannic weight—than that wine, and should be cellared while youdrink up its stable mate. —P.G.

91 Le Cadeau 2008 Côte Est PinotNoir (Oregon); $47. Each Le Cadeau

wine has a different consulting winemaker, andsome are down in Ukiah, hence the Oregon AVA,although this is estate-grown, Willamette Valleyfruit. This new Côte Est (eastern slope) is stilltight, very young and a bit withdrawn. There areearthy flavors around the spicy purple fruits; it’sbalanced and fine, and seems to have a more del-icate, feminine spin than the other new releasesfrom Le Cadeau. Time will tell. Decant it or, evenbetter, cellar it for about five years. —P.G.

91 Seven of Hearts 2008 ReservePinot Noir (Willamette Valley);

$42. Despite its reserve designation, this elegantwine emphasizes feminine grace over purepower. The alcohol is cited as 13.5%, and the fruithas the spicy tang of just-ripe berries, not sweetor jammy. Spicy herb details illuminate a winewrapped in smooth milk chocolate barrel flavors.Drinking well already, but should improve overthe next five or six years. —P.G.

91 Seven of Hearts 2008 CrawfordBeck Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-

Amity Hills); $35. All of the Seven of Heartswines open with lovely floral scents, then addearth and dark fruits. This has a black cherrycore, the fruit wrapped in earthy loam, and thetannins are softened with barrel flavors of vanillacustard. Single vineyard, single clone (115),focused and detailed. —P.G.

91 Vista Hills 2008 Rollins EstatePinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $44.

Sharp and precise, this opens with intense scentsof raspberry and summer strawberries, beauti-fully aromatic. The fruit loads the palate with

bright, fresh flavors that go deep and last into avery satisfying finish. Young as it is, it will be diffi-cult to keep your hands off this bottle. But it willreward cellaring over the next 6–8 years. —P.G.

90 Aubichon Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir(Willamette Valley); $34. Delicious

is the first word that pops into your head whenyou taste this wine. It’s got the sort of sweet fruitthat you find in Russian River Pinots, yet retainsthe definition and refinement, along with a slightherbal nuance, that speaks of the Willamette Val-ley. Long in the mouth and tangy with a mix ofspice and fruit sweetness in the finish. —P.G.

90 David Hill 2007 Estate ReservePinot Noir (Willamette Valley);

$38. The sharp, unmistakable scent of newFrench oak barrels hits you immediately, and itplays nicely against this winery’s naturally spicy,lightly resinous style of Pinot Noir. The elegantside of Oregon Pinot Noir is also on display, partlya virtue of the winery, partly a reflection of thevintage. Though light, it is not simple, and theblack raspberry and black cherry fruit is mixedwith streaks of cola, anise and clove. —P.G.

90 Kramer 2006 Heritage Pinot Noir(Yamhill-Carlton District); $40.

From vines planted in 1984, this is the winery’sreserve bottling. Aromas are inviting, varietal andcomplex, with layers of berry fruits, sassafras, colaand sandalwood. The wine catches the delicacy ofthe grape along with its unique ability to persist inthe mouth despite its lightness. This looks to beageworthy, elegant and special. Cellar Selection.—P.G.

90 LaVelle Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir(Willamette Valley); $24. Lovely,

soft, slightly exotic scents captivate immedi-ately—raspberry and sandalwood, incense andpeppermints (wasn’t that a song a long timeago?). Pretty fruit is showcased nicely, with bal-ancing acidity and a light touch as far as new oakis concerned. More subtle fruit and spice flavorswind through the finish, but it’s full-on PinotNoir, with no tricks or trade-offs. Editors’Choice. —P.G.

90 Le Cadeau 2008 Diversité PinotNoir (Willamette Valley); $47. Le

Cadeau consistently scores well with their evoca-tive and textural Pinots. In this excellent vintagethere are layers of earth and spice, sweet sassafrasand brambly fruit. It just sits really well in the

mouth, not a blockbuster, but complex and lin-gering, with the sort of creamy finish that invitesthe next glass immediately. —P.G.

90 Le Cadeau 2008 Equinoxe PinotNoir (Willamette Valley); $47.

Nicely balanced, with a rich mix of tart, bramblyberries, hard cherry candy, spicy herb and a veinof dark mineral. Everything is woven together inbalance; the individual flavors stand out likethreads in a tapestry, but give the wine textureand depth. —P.G.

90 R e x H i l l 2 0 0 8 P i n o t N o i r(Willamette Valley); $32. Though

this is near the bottom end of the Rex Hill Pinotpole, it does not suffer from a lack of flavor. Bigfruit, organically grown, runs right through thecore, a mix of berries, cherries and plums; woveninto the fruit is a lightly leafy vein, a whiff oftobacco, and a suggestion of earthy, organic com-post. Thoroughly delicious. —P.G.

90 Scott Paul 2008 D122 Pinot Noir(Ribbon Ridge); $35. This D122 is a

new addition to the Scott Paul lineup, a selectionof four favorite barrels from the Ribbon Ridgevineyard. Don’t let its pretty, pale cherry colorfool you—this bright and lively young Pinot Noiris structured for the cellar. A mix of fresh cran-berry, spicy plum and pie cherry fruit is sup-ported by tart acids and firm, polished tannins.The lingering finish adds licorice and hints ofbark. Note that this is sealed with a screwcap, andneeds decanting. —P.G.

90 Vista Hills 2008 Skyraider ReservePinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $60.

Clean, crisply defined fruit tastes like ripe straw-berries, with side notes of melon and orange peel.Good acidity, and the winemaker has let the fruitsteal the show—if there are new barrels involved,they are certainly in the background. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced and built for cellaringover the next 6–8 years. —P.G.

90 Z’IVO 2006 Pinot Noir (Eola-AmityHills); $35. This is estate-grown, a mix

of five Pinot Noir clones, from an excellent vin-tage. Perfumed and showing floral and berryaccents, the wine hits the palate like a soft, wetkiss. Light and gentle, yet penetrating and seduc-tive, the tannins have been nicely managed andkeep the wine, as the winery notes, “disturbinglyquaffable.” —P.G.

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BUYING I GUIDE

89 Coelho 2008 Paciência EstatePinot Noir (Willamette Valley);

$42. Done in a lighter style, and listed at under13% alcohol, this is scented with sweet strawber-ries and tastes like them also, with a soft core offruit and very gentle tannins. Light streaks of sas-safras and chocolate wrap it up. —P.G.

89 Rex Hill 2007 Jacob-Hart VineyardPinot Noir (Willamette Valley);

$52. Organically grown, this fruit is from theestate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains. Oldvine elegance and subtlety are much in evidence,even in this bottling from a difficult, rain-soakedvintage. It’s a delicate wine that nonethelessoffers persistent, complex flavors: strawberry andsour cherry, dried Italian herbs and a finishinglick of chocolate. —P.G.

89 Seven of Hearts 2008 Pinot Noir(Eola-Amity Hills); $28. Eola Hills

Pinots often offer this sort of interesting flavors—a mix of earth, herb and forest; the red fruit is tartand the tannins hard. A wine to cellar, it alreadyshows depth and penetration, with a darker,smoky streak in the finish. —P.G.

89 Spindrift Cellars 2008 Pinot Noir(Willamette Valley); $20. Scents of

dark chocolate greet you immediately; woven intothe palate are delicate, feminine Pinot Noir fruitflavors. The overall impression is light and ele-gant, a mix of berries and wafer-thin chocolate.It’s a pleasure to find more and more Oregon pro-ducers moving to lower alcohol (here 13%), moreelegant Pinots. —P.G.

89 Stoller 2007 JV Estate Pinot Noir(Dundee Hills); $25. This is a standout

in this price range. The well-defined cherry/cran-berry fruit is wrapped in fresh rosemary and tar-ragon spices; the tannins are polished and there isan intriguing scent of pine forest that permeatesthe finishing flavors also. Such complexity is notalways found in wines twice as expensive. —P.G.

89 Thistle 2007 Pinot Noir (DundeeHills); $24. Thistle makes a spicy,

herbal, earthy style of Pinot Noir, so don’t look forsweet, ripe, jammy flavors. The fruit tastes likethe tart, wild berries of the Northwest, and it’sbacked with tart acidity and chewy tannins. Butthe concentration, focus and detail of the wineelevate it, and it persists in the mouth far longerthan you anticipate. —P.G.

89 Vista Hills 2008 Piedmont EstatePinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $44.

Smooth and fruity, this seductive wine is front-loaded with pretty cherry fruit. It shows a littleherb and loam in the midpalate, and that prettyfruit fades away gently, leaving a harmonious,give-me-another-sip aftertaste. —P.G.

88 Illahe 2008 Pinot Noir (WillametteValley); $20. Here is an affordably

priced Oregon Pinot that nonetheless spent 15months in French oak, 20% new. This bringssappy varietal fruit flavors of cherry and rasp-berry, with a lick of caramel, presumably fromthe barrel aging. A great choice for near-termdrinking. —P.G.

88 Plowbuster 2008 P inot Noir(Willamette Valley); $20. Warmly

sensuous in the mouth, this gentle and attractivePinot Noir offers soft fruit, a mix of berries andplums, that slides gracefully across the palate. It’sdappled with light hints of cracker and chocolate,and the balance is maintained until the very end,where there is a finishing heat spike from the14.5% alcohol. —P.G.

88 Rex Hill 2007 Dundee Hills PinotNoir (Willamette Valley); $38.

Organically grown and sourced from the DundeeHills AVA, this is from the lighter vintage of 2007.It’s balanced and ripe enough, but feels a littlethin. What does stand out are the excellent aro-matics, already sliding into maturity, and offeringintriguing scents and flavors of cola, cured meat,moist earth, truffle and salt. —P.G.

88 Seven of Hearts 2008 Pinot Noir(Willamette Valley); $24. This multi-

vineyard blend opens with light floral notes, hitsthe palate with spice, clove and pepper, thenbrings in cranberry and pie cherry fruit. Complexand racy, it will be best with additional cellaring.—P.G.

88 Stoller 2005 Cathy’s Reserve PinotNoir (Dundee Hills); $100. A late

release, very limited-production reserve, this stillcarries a youthful bite and shows a strong pineand herb component. It’s solid and full, but a bitblocky, and fades rather quickly. —P.G.

88 Vista Hills 2008 Treehouse PinotNoir (Dundee Hills); $28. Strawberry

preserves, leather and chocolate are all in the mixhere, nicely mingled and mutually supportive.

This is a sinuous, fleshy, fruit-driven wine, butthere’s plenty of chocolaty oak in the soft, lightlypeppery finish. Forward and appealing, this isone to enjoy right now. —P.G.

87 Luminous Hills 2008 Estate GrownPinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton Dis-

trict); $28. Light, young vine fruit flavors mixstrawberry and rhubarb, with a tangy, citrus com-ponent underscoring the midpalate. It gets a littlemore interesting in the finish, which brings inseed flavors and a lingering, orange juicy after-taste. —P.G.

87 Luminous Hills 2008 LUX PinotNoir (Yamhill-Carlton District);

$35. The LUX bottling has a bit more concen-tration than the other estate-grown Pinot Noirfrom Luminous Hills. The fruit carries much thesame strawberry/citrus flavor, but with more gripand focus. The tannins are proportional, and thewine is balanced, but thins out quickly in thefinish. —P.G.

87 Ponzi 2008 Tavola Pinot Noir(Willamette Valley); $25. Crisply

defined cranberry fruit, with a strong herbalstreak and a hint of saddle leather. The cranberryflavors pierce through, with vivid acidity pushingthem into the lingering finish. Serve chilled, withturkey. —P.G.

87 Rex Hill 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir(Willamette Valley); $42. Organically

grown and selected from a mix of specific vineyardblocks, Rex Hill’s reserve is rather light in 2007,with tannins that are a bit out of proportion to thefruit. It’s a carefully controlled effort, but thin anddilute, with strawberry/watermelon fruit and sometomato leaf creeping into the finish. —P.G.

87 Torii Mor 2008 La Colina VineyardPinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $50.

This is a sharp, tart Pinot, scented with pine nee-dles and showing wild strawberry fruit flavorsand plenty of sharp acidity. In the mouth thefruit also reveals a cherry candy core, pretty butbrief, and quickly winds down through a citrusyfinish. —P.G.

87 Torii Mor 2008 Olson Estate Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills);

$55. This feels over-cropped, dilute, with morethan a little tomato leaf and vegetable among itsrather delicate scents and flavors. In this pricerange, from this excellent vintage, you might

W i n e M a g . c o m | 8 9

expect more ripeness and concentration. It’s per-fectly pleasant, but drinks like a village wine, nota premier cru. —P.G.

86 Amalie Robert 2007 VintageDebut Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-

ley); $30. The first vintage for this designation,it’s all estate-grown and hand-harvested. Accentsof tomato leaf and wet cement in the nose, wildstrawberry and rhubarb in the mouth. Quite tartand light, but well-made and varietal. —P.G.

86 Coeur de Terre 2008 Pinot Noir(McMinnville); $20. Aromatic and flo-

ral, this forward and fruity Pinot mixes spicy rasp-berry and strawberry fruit leading into a cherrycola core. That’s where it remains through a quickfade. Good near-term drinking. —P.G.

86 Coeur de Terre 2008 Estate PinotNoir (McMinnville); $34. Cola, Dr.

Pepper, cherry coke all come to mind, as this hasa strong emphasis on those flavors, or sassafras assome define them. It’s tasty, forward and light,with a lightly herbal aftertaste. Perfectly pleas-ant, though not showing much depth. —P.G.

86 Torii Mor 2008 Dundee Hills SelectPinot Noir (Dundee Hills); $41.

Though not as concentrated as many examplesfrom this AVA, this brings identifiable Pinot Noircharacter, albeit in a rather thin, austere style.Pale cranberry and pomegranate fruit is matchedto tart acidity and a veneer of herb. —P.G.

85 A to Z Wineworks 2008 Pinot Noir(Oregon); $20. At 62,000-plus cases,

you are in the land of the seamless blend. Oregondoes not have vast contiguous vineyards, so thesegrapes must have come from here, there andeverywhere. The result is a gentle, lightly fruity,crisp, clean and innocuous Pinot Noir that lacksonly a sense of place. —P.G.

85 Cathedral Ridge 2008 Pinot Noir(Columbia Valley (OR)); $26. From

the Columbia Valley AVA in Oregon, this is quitedifferent from Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. It’s awarmer, drier climate, and the wine has tighterflavors, with sharp tannins. There’s cherry fruitand chocolate from barrel aging, with a hard,slightly bitter finish. —P.G.

85 Jigsaw 2008 Pinot Noir (Oregon);$20. This would be easy to mistake for

Grenache—it’s ruby-colored, cranberry-flavored,

with hints of strawberry and licorice. Clean, crispand noticeably acidic, it would be most enjoyablewith a richly sauced breast of duck. —P.G.

85 Kramer 2007 Port Pinot Noir(Yamhill-Carlton District); $30. A

Pinot Noir Port is a rare creature, and somewhatcontradictory. How to match the delicacy of thePinot Noir grape with the power and punch ofPort-style, fortified wines? Here it’s the alcoholand spirits that take over; the Pinot bringing somecherry fruit flavors but lacking the weight andsubstance to feel authoritative. —P.G.

85 Open Book 2006 P inot Noi r(Willamette Valley); $38. Full and

deep, with a very ripe, raisined, pruney character.The alcohol is listed at just 13.5%, but the winetastes much, much riper. Yet in the finish it thinsout, without the weight or burn that one wouldnormally expect in such ripe fruit. Hard to knowwhat the winemaker did to produce this wine, butthe end result does not hang together as well as itshould. —P.G.

85 Primarius 2007 Pinot Noir (Ore-gon); $20. Round and fruity, soft and

mature, this combine pie cherry fruit with brownsugar, baking spices and some peppery herb, per-haps from the addition of a small amount of Syrahto the blend. Think California Central CoastPinot with some of Oregon’s herbal bite. —P.G.

84 To r i i M o r 2 0 0 8 P i n o t N o i r(Willamette Valley); $24. Quite light

in both aroma and flavor, this hits the palate softly,with tart, thin fruit and a jarring, somewhat plasticnote that persists into the finish. There’s a hint ofchocolate, but not much going on here. —P.G.

83 Cubanisimo Vineyards 2008 EstatePinot Noir (Willamette Valley);

$30. Thin and disjointed, with strawberry sodafruit flavors that drop off quickly into an amor-phous midpalate. There’s some plastic aftertastein the finish. —P.G.

82 Agate Ridge 2007 Clonal SelectionPinot Noir (Rogue Valley); $24.

Relatively low in alcohol (12.2% is the listing),this is thin on fruit but does offer soft flavors ofyeasty bread dough, along with some stemmy tan-nins. —P.G.

81 Château Bianca 2008 Pinot Noir(Willamette Valley); $15. Smoke and

leather tack-room scents and flavors, making for asharp, short, fruitless wine. —P.G.

GRENACHE

90 Cowhor n 2008 Grenache 74Grenache (Applegate Valley); $27.

For those who value a totally natural, biodynamic,unfiltered wine, this is it. The neck of the bottle islined with purple sediment that is almost psyche-delic it’s so intense. The wine is fermented withnative yeasts, and it’s a scrapey, authentic beast ofa Grenache, with 15% Syrah in the blend, and ittakes no prisoners. Grapey, full-throttle, deep andconcentrated, with blueberries and plums, boy-senberries and kirsch, it invites both contempla-tion and hedonistic pleasure. —P.G.

87 Abacela 2008 Garnacha (SouthernOregon); $22. This Grenache-based

wine includes 10% Tempranillo, 4% Malbec and2% Syrah in the sophisticated blend. Recentlybottled, it’s still tight, tannic, and hiding much ofits fruit. The aromas give an indication of what’sto come—cranberry fruit and lemony acidity,with some firm tannins. —P.G.

81 Agate Ridge 2008 Grenache(Rogue Valley); $23. There is a bit of

sweetness which gives a quick impression of bodyto the light, cherry-flavored fruit. Once in themouth the wine quickly fades, leaving just anastringent aftertaste with no particular varietalcharacter. —P.G.

MALBEC

90 Watermill 2007 Estate Malbec(Walla Walla); $28. Pure Malbec,

with a lovely bouquet of juicy berries and choco-late, this dark and sensuous wine leans on thebarrel flavors but has the fruit power to carrythrough. You can taste the Malbec in the Asianspice and mulberry core; then the cinnamon andcardamom kick in. —P.G.

88 Abacela 2007 Malbec (UmpquaValley); $22. Exotic scents immediately

characterize this wine as fascinating; weavingtogether incense, smoke, wild berry, baking spicesand plum jam. Yet the wine retains a delicacy,lightness, its flavors based upon juicy acids ratherthan new oak. It showcases the fruit, and does sowith grace and panache. —P.G.

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BUYING I GUIDE

CABERNETS & BLENDS

90 Velocity 2006 Red Wine(RogueValley); $25. From one of the most tal-

ented winemakers in the Rogue Valley comes thisred blend, which could be labeled Malbec, as thatis 88% of the blend (the rest is Cabernet Franc).The varietal character comes through nicely,wrapped in toasty oak, with lovely spice highlightsaround raspberry and Bing cherry fruit. Livelyand textural, with a hint of funk. —P.G.

89 J. Scott Cellars 2007 CabernetSauvignon (Rogue Valley); $27.

Rogue Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has yet to carveout any sort of reputation for itself, and has beenprone to herbaceous, even vegetal fruit withaggressively rough tannins. Winemaker JonathanOberlander has gone a ways toward taming them,rounding out the fruit, and crafting a complete andsatisfying wine. Its best feature is the nose, com-plex, varietal and tightly laced. The mix of driedherb, black olive, smoke and cassis fills in the mid-palate with Bordeaux-like authority. —P.G.

89 Watermill 2007 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Walla Walla); $24. As in ear-

lier vintages, this is three quarters Cabernet, onequarter Merlot, from McClellan Estate, Lewisand Seven Hills fruit. You will find a clear andvarietal flavor mix of cassis, herb and bark, withsome spice and chocolate accents from barrelaging in half-new French oak. Good balance andpersistence. —P.G.

89 Zero One Vintners 2007 Wild SkyCaber net Sauvignon (Wal la

Walla); $30. This wine has the magic mix ofvanilla, tobacco and cherry that many consumers(and critics) love. It’s a seductive Cabernet froman excellent Walla Walla vineyard, with a little bitof Yakima Valley Merlot blended in. With moretime it may flesh out and show better depth tothe fruit, but it’s quite enjoyable as is. —P.G.

88 Folin Cellars 2008 Misceo (RogueValley); $34. Folin’s Misceo is a blend

of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, all estate-grown. The forward fruit flavors run throughberries, cherries and red plums; the wine is nicelybalanced with acid and tannin in proportion.Think southern Rhône, young vines and you arein the right ballpark. —P.G.

88 Velocity 2007 Velo Red (RogueValley); $18. An affordable blend that

is almost 60% Malbec, the rest Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, Franc and Syrah. It drinks well, smoothand polished, and the rough tannins that canoften overtake the fruit in this region have beennicely managed here, pulling the wine into bal-ance. Strawberry and light black cherry, someherb and tar, and good grip for an everyday red.—P.G.

88 Zerba Cellars 2007 Wild Z (WallaWalla); $20. Zerba’s crowd-pleasing

Wild Z blends Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon andSyrah about equally, with a splash of CabernetFranc to finish it off. It’s a ripe, full, forward,chocolaty mouthful. It keeps the red fruit tart andtantalizing, while loading in the barrel flavors(French and American) to round off the finish. Afine follow-up to the excellent 2006. —P.G.

87 Abacela 2006 Claret (SouthernOregon); $32. Two thirds Cabernet

Sauvignon, with the other Bordeaux grapes fillingin the rest. Though this 2006 vintage was heldback for some time to allow for extra bottle age,this is still a hard, tannic wine that requiresdecanting. The build-out is well done, tanninsfirm and moderately ripe, fruit flavors Bordeaux-like. Right now it’s a bit monolithic, tasty enough,but without the textural interest that mostAbacela wines display. —P.G.

87 Cathedral Ridge 2008 NecessityRed (Columbia Valley); $24. Any-

where but in Oregon, this could be labeled PinotNoir, which makes up 80% of the blend; the restis Zinfandel. It’s a combination that makes sensein the Columbia Gorge. The Pinot is more earthyand tannic than in the Willamette Valley, and theZin lighter than you find in California. The resultis a wine tasting of wild cherries, tart, spicy andquite quaffable. —P.G.

87 Melrose Vineyards 2007 EquinoxRed Blend (Umpqua Valley); $20.

Not sure a Syrah/Baco Noir/Dolcetto/Merlotblend has ever been done, but here it is. Sharpwith spicy rhubarb fruit and a leathery under-taste, this rustic, earthy wine is plenty flavorfuland wild. Suggestion: chill it, serve it in tumblers,and appreciate its wildness with a smoky rack ofgrilled ribs. —P.G.

87 Patit Creek Cellars 2007 CabernetSauvignon (Walla Walla); $29.

Fruit from Seven Hills and Spofford Station pro-vides the solid frame of black cherry, licorice, andtannin. This is a blocky wine, monolithic but full-bodied; best paired with hearty red meat dishes.—P.G.

86 Cathedral Ridge 2007 BordheauxdRed (Columbia Valley); $26. Yes,

that is the correct spelling, as shown on the wine’slabel. A blend of 10% Merlot, 56% Syrah, and34% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is dark, plum-col-ored and dusty with scents of plum and prune.Soft and moving quickly into midlife, it drinkslike an older wine, with soft tannins and a hint ofsupple leather. —P.G.

86 Abacela 2007 Cabernet Franc(Southern Oregon); $27. Excellent

winemaking extracts the maximum value fromthe grapes. Scents are a little volatile and pruney,but the wine is not. Flavors are a mix of plumpudding, chocolate, baking spice and vanilla, withlavender and blueberry streaks. Not your Califor-nia or Washington Cabernet Franc, this charts aunique path. —P.G.

86 Cliff Creek 2007 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Southern Oregon); $24. In

contrast to the winery’s big, rough and tumblestyle of Merlot, this Cabernet is lightly fruity. Itshows cherry and cranberry hard candy fruit fla-vors. The tannins are rough and substantial, andquickly take over the finish. —P.G.

85 Abacela NV Vintner’s Blend #10Red Table Wine (Southern Ore-

gon); $16. A tart, all-purpose red, with 14 dif-ferent grapes in the b lend . The resu l t ,predictably, is generic. No particular variety dom-inates; it’s a high acid red wine, with stiff tannins.—P.G.

85 Cathedral Ridge 2007 Rock StarRed (Columbia Valley); $44. The

Rock Star Red is a 50/50 Cabernet/Syrah blend.The two grapes work well together in manywines, but here they seem a bit at odds. TheCabernet carries some green, herbal, pickle bar-rel flavors; the Syrah brings in pepper and spice,but neither has the ripeness to flesh out the winesufficiently. There are flavors of plum and cookedcherry, then it hits some chewy tannins and stopsshort. —P.G.

84 Cliff Creek 2007 Cabernet Franc(Southern Oregon); $26. This tastes

W i n e M a g . c o m | 9 1

barely ripe, and the 12.5% alcohol listing—quitelow for this variety—seems to confirm theimpression. It’s high in acid, with thin, sharp tan-nins, and without the balancing heft and sweet-ness to the fruit. That said, it would be perfectlycompatible with a grilled steak, much like a sim-ple Bordeaux. —P.G.

83 Agate Ridge 2007 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Rogue Valley); $24. Scents of

plum and cassis lead into a tart wine with acidic,tannic, black cherry fruit flavors. The acids arequite chalky, and the tannins chewy and slightlygreen. —P.G.

83 Springhouse Cellar 2008 MakeCab Not War Cabernet Sauvignon

(Columbia Valley); $24. This Cabernet is abit on the green side, with sharp, slightly bittertannins that are not completely masked by theoverlay of chocolaty barrel flavors. —P.G.

81 Cathedral Ridge 2007 CabernetSauvignon (Columbia Valley); $32.

Stewed and vegetal, with hard, bitter tannins.This does not taste as if the grapes ripened suffi-ciently, and the extraction is such that green, bit-ter tannins are the main flavor. —P.G.

80 Agate Ridge 2007 Cascade TerraceRed (Rogue Valley); $17. A blend of

five diverse red grapes, this lightly fruity quafferis almost invisible as far as flavor is concerned. Ithits the tongue and vanishes. —P.G.

SYRAH

92 Nuthatch Cellars 2006 Seven HillsVineyard Syrah (Walla Walla); $35.

Meaty, juicy, textural and Rhône-ish, this lovelyWalla Walla wine captures the character thateludes Syrahs from other West Coast AVAs. Acombination of cured meat, smoke, compost andforest, with notes of dried seaweed and sea salt,this is an explosion of fascinating flavors. —P.G.

88 Cliff Creek 2005 Syrah (SouthernOregon); $25. Helped by extra bottle

age, this Syrah is the best of the latest releasesfrom Cliff Creek. Balanced and varietal, its spicyberry fruit is highlighted with grapefruity pheno-lics. Flavors penetrate and stand up well into amedium-long, balanced finish. —P.G.

88 Folin Cellars 2007 Syrah (RogueValley); $30. This is a light, pleasant,

balanced Syrah that shows a mix of earth, herb,saline, soy, cherry and chocolate flavors, but allsubdued. Take a high-end Washington Syrah andlighten it up—those are the flavors here. If youvalue elegance and complexity, this will be justright for you. —P.G.

88 Francis Tannahill 2006 MasonDixon Syrah (Oregon); $28. Stiff and

tannic, this dark and steely Syrah is scented withloam, lead pencil and blackberries. The black-berry fruit is matched, but not over-matched, withdarker notes of tar, coffee and bitter chocolate.Tannins are a little rugged, but not overbearing,and carry a hint of green coffee. —P.G.

87 J. Scott Cellars 2007 Del Rio Vine-yard Syrah (Rogue Valley); $23.

Light strawberry and black cherry fruit is thestory here, backed with decent acidity. Tanninsare dark and well-structured, so the wine keepsits balance. Though it does not have the weight ordepth of Washington Syrahs, or the sweet berryflavors of California, it is soundly made, drinkingwell, fruit forward, and a good choice for warmweather sipping. —P.G.

86 A m a l i e R o b e r t 2 0 0 7 S y r a h(Willamette Valley); $35. This is

cool-climate fruit, from a vintage the winerydescribes as “the coolest year we have ever seen.”Nonetheless they have made a good wine, withbalanced scents and flavors. It’s definitely herbal,but also brings some cured meat and tart, wildcherry flavors into play. —P.G.

82 Cathedral Ridge 2007 Syrah(Columbia Valley); $32. Sweaty and

pruney in the nose, this hot and disjointed winecould be almost any red grape; there’s no varietalcharacter. It’s volatile and thins out quickly, leavinggreen tannins in the back of the mouth. —P.G.

MERLOT

89 Kramer 2007 Merlot (Walla Walla);$28. Not sure which vineyard sourced

the grapes, but this is a flavorful, ready-to-drinkbottle of wine. There is substantial evidence ofaging in expensive new oak barrels, with a lot ofcoconut flavor over toast, chocolate and cherry.Tannins are soft and the fruit is round and lus-cious; except for a slight fall-off in the finish this

could be from any one of a number of well-known Walla Walla wineries. —P.G.

88 Tempus Cellars 2007 Seven HillsVineyard Merlot (Walla Walla);

$28. A chewy, high-acid take on Merlot, with astrong herbal note to the tannins. It might almostpass for Carmenère. The fruit flavors are sub-dued but ripe enough, and the alcohol touches14.7%. This is the sort of muscular Merlot thatcan take the place of Cabernet alongside a grilledsteak. —P.G.

87 Abacela 2007 Merlot (SouthernOregon); $20. A mix of estate-grown

and sourced (from the Rogue valley) grapes, thisOregon Merlot has black cherry and chocolate atits core, but quickly thins out, with very tart acid-ity. It’s got its own style, with stiff tannins, the leafand stem notes subdued, and a fine balance. But itwill show best with food, especially steak. —P.G.

86 Springhouse Cellar 2008 Poetry inMerlotion Merlot (Columbia Val-

ley); $24. This is smooth and light, with plentyof cocoa, mocha and coffee flavors around thelight, pretty red fruits. Very creamy in the mouth,and ready to enjoy immediately. —P.G.

85 Cliff Creek 2007 Merlot (SouthernOregon); $19. Quite tannic and oaky,

this rough and chewy Merlot is constructedaround a thin layer of cassis fruit. But the big fla-vors are the dark, earthy ones—raw wood andthick tannin. —P.G.

PETITE SIRAH

86 Folin Cellars 2008 Petite Sirah(Rogue Valley); $34. Young vines, the

first release from estate-grown fruit. The vanillaflavors of the barrels are front and center at themoment, though there are darker fruits in thebackground, along with smoke, licorice and a hintof tar. Good long-term potential. —P.G.

86 J. Scott Cellars 2008 Petite Sirah(Rogue Valley); $23. This is a well-

balanced Petite Sirah, with chewy but propor-tionate tannins, a broadly fruity, black cherry coreand nuanced highlights of apricot. The finish doesa quick fade. —P.G.

82 Agate Ridge 2007 Petite Sirah(Rogue Valley); $27. A grapey wine,

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BUYING I GUIDE

forward with light, pretty cherry candy flavors. Itstarts out well, then doesn’t build into anything,but rather fades quickly into a watery, genericred. —P.G.

SANGIOVESE

86 Stella Fino 2008 Luminoso San-giovese (Walla Walla); $15. This is

100% Sangiovese, with a spicy, peppery herba-ceous quality. The fruit is very light, suggestingwatermelon and wild strawberries. Simple andpleasant. —P.G.

84 Springhouse Cellar 2008 Sangio-plasty Sangiovese (Columbia Val-

ley); $20. Exceedingly light fruit, more or lessinvisible under the velvety coating of chocolatyoak. The chocolate milk flavor and creamy textureare lovely, but the wine needs more fruit support.—P.G.

ZINFANDEL

85 Cathedral Ridge 2007 ReserveZinfandel (Columbia Valley); $38.

Soft and approachable, with little evidence (inthe mouth) of the 15.6% alcohol listed on thelabel, this is a pleasant, rather generically fla-vored red. Don’t look for California-style jam;this is rather delicate, with strawberry and wildcherry fruit, light pepper, a hint of mint and lighttannins. —P.G.

83 Cathedral Ridge 2007 Zinfandel(Columbia Valley); $20. Very pale for

a Zin, this delivers more flavor than you mightexpect. It’s very spicy and peppery, and the fruithas a strong herbal/rhubarb streak, but it’s firmand shows some alcoholic heat (14.6% is the offi-cial figure) as well. —P.G.

OTHER RED WINES

87 Abacela 2008 Dolcetto (UmpquaValley); $20. Harvested at 22.6 degrees

brix, this bright and spicy Dolcetto does not reachtoo far. It’s tart, with fruit flavors that suggest wildberries and pomegranate, and tannins that arefirm but never green. A fine quaffing wine. —P.G.

87 Folin Cellars 2006 Tempranillo(Rogue Valley); $30. A spicy note in

the nose carries suggestions of caraway, pepperand rye. This is a light, tart, palate-refreshing redwine, with wild red berry flavors, a hint of earthand a delicate balance. —P.G.

85 Melrose Vineyards 2008 Baco Noir(Umpqua Valley); $26. There is a

horsey, leathery scent as you first experience thiswine. It penetrates into the mouth, a stand-offagainst the sweet/tart boysenberry fruit. Suspectit will be a love it/hate it type of wine, dependingupon your appreciation of leather. —P.G.

ROSÉ

89 Cowhorn 2009 Grenache Rosé(Applegate Valley); $18. From a bio-

dynamic producer, this exceptional rosé has sur-prising depth of flavor. It’s a lovely, pale salmon,and scented with rose petals and watermelon. Butit kicks in once swallowed, with fresh strawberryfruit that penetrates and persists well into the lin-gering finish, with backing minerality. Just 11.4%alcohol, and bone dry. —P.G.

87 Abacela 2009 Rosé (Umpqua Val-ley); $14. Almost cherry red, this

estate-grown Grenache rosé is quite dry, yet haslovely fruit character that brings with it animpression of fruit sweetness. Fresh and tangy,with a mix of cranberry and cherry flavors, it’s aperfectly balanced wine that shows well whenchilled down a bit. —P.G.

87 Adelsheim 2009 Rosé of PinotNoir (Willamette Valley); $19.

Many Oregon wineries produce a rosé from PinotNoir, generally released in the spring for enjoy-ment over the ensuing warm weather months.Pinot makes a particularly light and elegant rosé,bone dry, tart and citric. This one suggests wildstrawberries and hints of rose petals. —P.G.

86 Viento 2009 Chukar Ridge Vine-yard Sangiovese Rosé (Columbia

Valley); $14. Bone dry, wonderfully fresh andloaded with strawberry and watermelon flavors,hepped up with lightly peppery spice. In short, aperfect summer sipper, chilled and drunk withpicnic foods, preferably outdoors. —P.G.

85 Cathedra l R idge 2008 Rosé(Columbia Valley); $15. A three-

grape rosé, this blends Pinot Gris, Merlot andSyrah to make a mahogany/copper-colored wine

with a soft, spicy character. It was barrel-aged inneutral oak. There is a good mix of stone fruit fla-vors, though some of the grapes may have been alittle too ripe, and the wine’s finish reflects that,with just a hint of rot. —P.G.

84 Coeur de Terre 2009 Rosé Rus-tique (Willamette Valley); $17. Just

this side of dry, this is a blend of Pinot Noir, Syrahand Riesling, a bit grassy and diffuse. It’s not surewhat sort of a rosé it wants to be, nor is it easy totell what to serve with it. Sour apple and straw-berry fruit with a bit of finishing sugar. —P.G.

OREGONWHITE WINESPINOT GRIS

90 Ponzi 2009 Pinot Gris (WillametteValley); $17. Strikingly spicy, with the

scents and flavors of Bosch pears, this textural,racy wine has a bit of refreshing effervescence aswell. Subtle traces of citrus, pineapple and Asianpear are woven through, and the bracing aciditysets it up well for richly sauced poultry or pastadishes. —P.G.

90 Vista Hills 2008 Flagler EstatePinot Gris (Dundee Hills); $18.

Another fine estate-grown Pinot Gris from VistaHills, with plenty of green apple and Bosch pearfruit, along with some light cinnamon spice.There is also a suggestion of flower in both thenose and the mouth, but overall it’s a bigger winethan that, with the fruit front and center. —P.G.

89 Acrobat 2009 Pinot Gris (Oregon);$12. Even better than the excellent

2008 Acrobat, this ups the alcohol to about 13%and gives the impression of dryness, though theremight be a trace of residual sugar. In any event,it’s loaded with pretty pear fruit flavor, lightlydusted with cinnamon spice, and fills the mouthwith its body and gentle hint of spritz. A finesummer sipper. Best Buy. —P.G.

89 King Estate 2008 Domaine PinotGris (Oregon); $25. Lightly herbal,

scented with tart pear and tasting the same, thisorganically grown estate wine is King Estate’s bestPinot Gris. Their signature bottling sets a goodstandard for the grape in Oregon; this elevates itwith more detail, density and personality. The

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alcohol is a sensible 13%, allowing subtle greenfruit and herb grace notes to emerge. —P.G.

89 LaVelle Vineyards 2008 Pinot Gris(Willamette Valley); $18. A light,

almost delicate wine, with pretty pear fruit and ahint of sweetness. The balance is just right, andthe wine shows some added flair as it wraps into afinish that seems to gather strength while addingfloral and lightly honeyed highlights. —P.G.

89 R e x H i l l 2 0 0 9 P i n o t G r i s(Willamette Valley); $16. A beauti-

fully rendered, light and detailed Oregon PinotGris, this is redolent of spring flowers and citruspeel, flavored with an elegant blend of pineap-ple, Asian pear, jicama and white pepper. Veryfresh and spicy. —P.G.

89 Seven Hills 2009 Pinot Gris (Ore-gon); $16. A fragrant burst of pear

blossom, citrus, melon and green apple aromaslead into similar flavors. Elegant and spicy, thisnicely captures the fleshiness of Oregon PinotGris. About 10% was finished in oak barrels, therest in stainless. —P.G.

89 Thistle 2009 Pinot Gris (DundeeHills); $15. From organically grown

grapes, this is for acid lovers. Tart to the point ofsour, with lemony fruit and a mouth-puckeringpresence, it rocks with goat cheeses, and cutsthrough cream sauces. Super penetration andlength. —P.G.

88 A to Z Wineworks 2009 Pinot Gris(Oregon); $12. The current downturn

in demand for both grapes and expensive winesonly helps A to Z; there is more good fruit to pur-chase, and plenty of demand at a $12 price point.This new Pinot Gris is fresh and racy, with a min-eral-driven acidity underlying the clean fruit, tast-ing of pears and pear skin. Best Buy. —P.G.

88 Boedecker Cellars 2008 Old VinePinot Gris (Willamette Valley);

$18. Old vine Pinot Gris? Sourced from theJacob Hart vineyard, it’s about 20 years old.Lightly beery, yeasty, with Asian pear and but-tered apple providing the main flavor interest.This is an elegant, nicely balanced wine, with fruitand acid in perfect proportion. —P.G.

88 Coelho 2009 Renovação Pinot Gris(Willamette Valley); $16. Fermented

in a mix of stainless steel barrels and neutral oak

barrels, this was fermented with native yeast andgiven sur lie aging. It went through 100% malo-lactic fermentation, which has softened the mid-palate, a mix of lemon, grapefruit and Satsumaorange. There are still traces of phenolics bite,but those citrus rind flavors have been wellrounded also, though this carries some heat inthe finish. —P.G.

88 Coeur de Terre 2009 Pinot Gris(McMinnville); $17. Already showing

some tawny color, this is a drink-up-quickly bot-tle. Softly fruity, it also carries a hint of residualsweetness, honeysuckle and Earl Grey tea. Rightnow it is drinking nicely, with pear tart, briocheand a little honey and vanilla crème runningthrough the finish. —P.G.

87 Evergreen Vineyards 2008 PinotGris (Oregon); $17. A solid, straight-

forward, all-purpose Pinot Gris, this offers firmand spicy pear and apple fruit, some crisp pheno-lics giving it a racy edge, and a little bite to theback of the palate. It has the acidity to stand up tocreamy pasta sauces or soft cheeses. —P.G.

87 Illahe 2009 Pinot Gris (WillametteValley); $13. Fresh and straightfor-

ward, this stainless steel-fermented Pinot Gris hassimple, pleasant pear fruit flavors, and just a sug-gestion of caramel running through it. Perfectlysuited for every day quaffing. —P.G.

87 Spindrift Cellars 2009 Pinot Gris(Willamette Valley); $14. Whole

cluster fermented in stainless steel, this is big andspicy, with a lovely textural impact. The aromasand flavors run to honeyed pears and very ripeapples; the finish is resonant and surprisinglymature for a 2009. Drink up. —P.G.

86 Kramer 2008 Pinot Gris (Yamhill-Carlton District); $15. Easy-drinking

and varietal, this displays fresh pear fruit cut withpineapple. It’s forward and juicy, a wine to drinkchilled with picnic foods. —P.G.

83 Agate Ridge 2008 Pinot Gris(Rogue Valley); $14. Light and

lemony, this simple, tangy white wine has somepretty, fresh baked bread scents, but inviting asthey are, the wine feels acidic and one dimen-sional in the mouth. Lemon/lime is the prevailingflavor. —P.G.

82 Château Bianca 2008 WetzelEstate Pinot Gris (Willamette Val-

ley); $12. Quite thin, as if over-cropped, turningthe fruit generic. Then it brings in a honey char-acter, as if it were botrytis-affected. But it is not asweet or late harvest wine; it’s quite dry. —P.G.

80 Château Bianca 2008 Pinot Gris(Willamette Valley); $12. A mix of

disjointed impressions. Some floral notes collidewith sour acids, then lead into a confected, can-died finish. —P.G.

PINOT BLANC

92 Thistle 2009 Pinot Blanc (DundeeHills); $16. This lively, spritzy Pinot

Blanc, made from organically grown grapes,matches the previous vintage with lovely fruit—golden apple, pink grapefruit and pickled water-melon. It freshens and lifts the palate as it movesinto a finish that keeps the fruit while adding astrong vein of mineral and wet rock. —P.G.

90 J. Scott Cellars 2008 Pinot Blanc(Willamette Valley); $14. Dry, deli-

cate, with a fine-tuned palate suggestive of a Ger-man wine, this lovely Pinot Blanc mixes citrus andpear in the body, and rolls into a graceful finishwith juicy acidity. The length and mouthfeel areEuropean; the fruit definitely New World. BestBuy. —P.G.

87 Spindrift Cellars 2009 Pinot Blanc(Willamette Valley); $16. Soft and

forward, with ripe and lightly oxidized flavors, thisis a solid, ready-to-drink, fruity style. A full mid-palate tastes of golden apples and hints at orangeliqueur in the finish. Drink up. —P.G.

87 Torii Mor 2008 Pinot Blanc (RogueValley); $20. Lightly lemony, slightly

waxy in the nose, with interesting details of greenberries, yellow fruits and citrus oils, this winesneaks up on you. It’s lively and clean, with flavorsmuch like a crisp, stainless steel-fermentedChardonnay. —P.G.

VIOGNIER

94 Abacela 2009 Blanco Dulce Viog-nier (Umpqua Valley); $30. This

late-harvest Viognier is so dense, so lush with aro-mas, that it defies description. Flowers, candied

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BUYING I GUIDE

fruits, caramel, vanilla, English breakfast tea,even a bit of tobacco—this is one of those winesthat just keeps on going. Fascinating, rich, yetvibrant with excellent acidity, this is a wine thatany dessert wine lover should experience. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G.

91 Abacela 2009 Viognier (UmpquaValley); $20. Abacela produces a

dense, mineral-driven style of Viognier, verticallylayered with a mix of citrus skins and fruits,notably grapefruit and pineapple. There’s even afinishing kiss of honey, though the wine is quitedry. A delight. —P.G.

91 Illahe 2009 Viognier (WillametteValley); $15. Delightfully aromatic, this

evocative, low-alcohol (12.5%) Viognier sends uppungent, piney aromas of citrus peel and flesh. Amix of lemon, orange and grapefruit flavors,smooth and clean, roll into a seamless and satisfy-ing finish. Best Buy. —P.G.

90 Folin Cellars 2008 Viognier (RogueValley); $25. Estate-grown, vibrant,

and spicy, this southern Oregon Viognier openswith a penetrating bouquet of flower, spice andcitrus. The wine really comes alive in the mouth,with palate-pleasing flavors of lime, quinine andmelon. You’d almost swear there was a nip of ginin the mix. Delicious chilled. —P.G.

90 J. Scott Cellars 2008 Viognier(Rogue Valley); $18. Though it is

listed at 14.2% alcohol, this is a pretty wine, withfeminine grace rather than masculine muscle.Floral and fresh, it smells like fresh lemons andwhite peaches and flavors follow right along inthat same vein. Balanced and polished, it showsexemplary winemaking skills on the part ofJonathan Scott Oberlander. —P.G.

90 Melrose Vineyards 2009 Viognier(Umpqua Valley); $18. This new

release from Melrose fills the mouth with flavor;it runs from orange blossom to Meyer lemon tocandied pineapple, finally settling into a strongcitrus/tropical blend of delicious fruit flavors. Itseems to strike a perfect balance, staying livelyand well-defined, without becoming hot or bit-ter. —P.G.

87 Springhouse Cellar 2008 Voulez-Vous Viognier (Columbia Valley

(OR)); $18. Juicy and fresh, this light andappealing Viognier shows crisp citrus and stone

fruit flavors, some pineapple and stone, and a lickof spun sugar in the finish. —P.G.

83 Agate Ridge 2008 Barrel Fer-mented Viognier (Rogue Valley);

$18. This has the sharp, citrus skin phenolicscharacteristic of many Viogniers, but a rather softmiddle tastes like green bananas more than cit-rus. Those banana flavors roll into the finish, thenquickly fade. —P.G.

CHARDONNAY

92 Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2008Arthur Chardonnay (Dundee

Hills); $38. A delicate, elegant style of Chardon-nay, with Burgundian hints of stone and honey-suckle, apple and citrus. The flavors gather in theback of the throat and linger there, propped upwith juicy acidity and buttery barrel toast. Adelightful bottle and perfectly balanced for poul-try or seafood. —P.G.

90 Ponzi 2007 Reserve Chardonnay(Willamette Valley); $30. Drinking

this new Ponzi reserve right after it’s beenreleased is not optimal; the supple and substantialfruit needs more time to meld with the barrel fla-vors. Once the bananas and peaches, the crèmebrûlée and vanilla custard flavors all combine, thiswill be anchored in hedonistic, lip-smacking, give-me-another-glass country. —P.G.

88 Rex Hill 2007 Reserve Chardonnay(Willamette Valley); $32. Underly-

ing the tart fruit flavors of crisp apple and cucum-ber are spicy, peppery highlights. At the moment,the new oak barrel flavors often found are notevident, but wines go through interesting morphsalong the aging curve. This one is just starting tosoften up. Organically grown and limited to just107 cases. —P.G.

88 Seven of Hearts 2008 ElvengladeVineyard Chardonnay (Yamhill-

Carlton District); $24. This has the sort of tart,lemon custard flavor you might find in a Frenchpastry. It’s snappy and fresh, the fruit amplifiedwith toasty oak scents and accents. Still young andraw, it will profit from decanting and/or a couplemore years in bottle. —P.G.

88 Stoller 2007 SV Estate Chardonnay(Dundee Hills); $28. From Dijon

clones, this sculpted, tight, compact Chardonnay

feels as if it is shut in a cocoon. Give it time (anddecanting) to unwrap, and it shows elegant tropi-cal and stone fruits, caramel, vanilla cream andbutter flavors, backed with moderate acids. —P.G.

88 Stoller 2008 SV Estate Chardon-nay (Dundee Hills); $28. This is oily

and ripe, with plenty of butter, butterscotch andtoasty new oak. What elevates it, as with allPacific Northwest Chardonnays, is the extra acid-ity, that provides a foundation of support underthe lush fruit and generous new oak. It mightsmooth out a bit over the next couple of years,but it’s a wine built to be savored sooner ratherthan later. —P.G.

88 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008D i j o n C l o n e C h a r d o n n a y

(Willamette Valley); $20. Still young andpulling itself together, this barrel-fermentedChardonnay already has a soft, lush, appealingmouthfeel. Flavors build upon barrel toast, butterand caramel, with clean green fruits and a hint ofnut oil in the finish. —P.G.

87 A to Z Wineworks 2008 Chardon-nay (Oregon); $15. Fruity and spritzy,

this fragrant, screwcapped Chardonnay is scentedwith apples, pears, a hint of grapefruit and spice.It’s front-loaded, nicely balanced at 13% alcohol,and best enjoyed lightly chilled. —P.G.

87 Boedecker Cellars 2008 PurityChardonnay (Willamette Valley);

$20. This unusual Chardonnay is fermented andaged sur lie in 60 gallon stainless-steel barrels.The pleasant mix of fruit includes cucumber,melon, jicama and apple, balanced and tart. Thecolor, already a fairly deep gold, suggests that youdrink it soon. —P.G.

87 Thistle 2008 Chardonnay (DundeeHills); $18. A deep straw, this unusual

Chardonnay has a strong herbal component, withpenetrating seed and grass flavors wrappedaround tart, green apple fruit. It’s a little oxidized,drinking well, but not for cellaring. —P.G.

86 Cathedral Ridge 2008 Chardonnay(Columbia Valley); $22. The winery

mentions neutral oak barrels, though the immedi-ate aromatic impression is still on the toasty/oakyside. The fruit comes up more slowly, along withresidual CO2 that gives a spritzy mouthfeel.Yeasty, light and tart, with green apples thestrongest fruit flavor. —P.G.

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85 Oak Knoll 2008 Winemakers 25thAnniversary Chardonnay (Ore-

gon); $19. A lightly tawny straw color, this isscented with grass and hay and smoked meat—unusual for a Chardonnay. Light apple-flavoredfruit carries that same, strong smoked meat (andslightly plastic) streak of flavor—unmissable andquite persistent. —P.G.

83 Oak Knoll 2008 WinemakersSelect Unoaked Chardonnay (Ore-

gon); $10. Light, tart, slightly green fruit fla-vors don’t add up to much. There is an undertoneof old barrel or something not quite fresh. Simpleand plain. —P.G.

81 Cathedral Ridge 2008 McDuffeeVineyard Reserve Chardonnay

(Columbia Valley); $36. Disjointed from thestart, this wine never pulls itself together.Cracker, oily fruit, overripe apples, and someburn in the finish. —P.G.

RIESLING

92 David Hill 2009 Estate Riesling(Willamette Valley); $16. For any-

one seeking an American version of a fine Ger-man Kabinett, David Hill’s Rieslings should beyour first stop. Vintage after vintage this winerynails it. Flower, fruit, citrus, light lemony honey,Jonathan apple, Asian pear, it just goes on and onin the mouth. At 12% alcohol, you might expect asweeter wine, but the juicy acids keep it nice anddry through the finish. —P.G.

88 Cathedral Ridge 2008 Riesling(Columbia Valley); $18. An unusual

combination of flavors that are searingly tart andyet seem to have a sugary core, this is scentedwith honeysuckle and orange blossom, and opensout quickly into a fruitbowl of ripe, tangy flavors.Apples, pears, oranges, candied lemons, even ahint of papaya are all in the mix. But be ready forsome tongue-tangling acidity. —P.G.

88 P e n n e r - A s h 2 0 0 8 R i e s l i n g(Willamette Valley); $18. A tongue-

scraping, bone-dry style reminiscent of an Aus-tralian Riesling, this aromatic, juicy and lightlyeffervescent wine tastes of citrus fruits and skins,along with hints of grapefruit and cucumber.There’s plenty of acidity to cut through richsauces. —P.G.

87 Coeur de Terre 2009 Riesling(Willamette Valley); $19. Made half

in stainless steel and half in neutral oak, this comesfrom 34-year-old vines. It’s quite dry, with inter-esting nuances of sweet grass, clover and greenapple. The acids are borderline sour; try this with abit of prosciutto and a salty cheese. —P.G.

85 Château Bianca 2008 Riesling(Willamette Valley); $12. Thick in

the mouth, with sour lemon and barely ripepineapple flavors, somewhat balanced againstmore delicate orange peel. The alcohol is 10%,yet despite the residual sugar the wine tastesquite tart. —P.G.

83 Château Bianca 2008 WetzelEstate Riesling (Willamette Val-

ley); $12. Very light, to the point of beingwatery, with hints of citrus and tea. The finishleaves a sour aftertaste. —P.G.

GRÜNER VELTLINER

90 Illahe 2009 Estate Grüner Veltliner(Willamette Valley); $15. Why not

an Oregon Grüner? With its nuanced aromastrailing flint and smoke through a core of grape-fruit, pineapple and melon, this is a welcomewarm weather wine. Just 12.5% alcohol, a solidmidpalate and a hint of vanilla cookie in the lin-gering finish. Best Buy. —P.G.

90 Viento 2009 Underwood MountainVineyard Grüner Veltliner (Colum-

bia Gorge); $20. A rare wine in the Northwest.It is a lightly floral, mineral-infused, vivid wine,with the white peppery character of the grape, anda mix of citrus fruit flavors somewhat reminiscentof New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. Excellent pen-etration and structure. —P.G.

WHITE BLENDS

89 Viento 2009 Allegre VineyardVerona White Blend (Columbia

Gorge); $14. Winemaker Rich Cushman notesthat this is a “field blend” of Pinot Gris, Chardon-nay and Sauvignon Blanc from this vineyard’s sin-gle bearing acre. It is a delightful wine, and thethree grapes all contribute to the mixed scents ofgrass, citrus and melon; and the fresh fruit fla-vors that run to cool green and yellow fruits and

berries. A nice finish suggests fresh-cut can-taloupe. Best Buy. —P.G.

88 Cliff Creek 2009 Marsanne-Rous-sanne (Southern Oregon); $22.

Round and fruity, with a tasty mix of apples,peaches and citrus, this tastes like fruit, not bar-rel, and would be an excellent choice if a hearty,non-oaky white wine is called for. There’s goodbalance and length, with a resonant hint of miner-ality in the finish. —P.G.

88 Z’IVO 2008 Mika White Wine(Willamette Valley); $18. This is

one-third Pinot Gris, two-thirds Chardonnay,medium straw colored, with interesting scents ofbeeswax, sweet hay and light toast. The fruit isdelicate, a mix of apple and pear with a hint ofcinnamon. But it lingers gracefully, leaving alemony trail. —P.G.

82 Agate Ridge 2008 Marsanne-Roussanne (Rogue Valley); $21.

Not as fleshy as many examples of this southernRhône blend, this shows thin, generic fruit withno particular focus. —P.G.

OTHER WHITE WINES

90 Abacela 2009 Albariño (UmpquaValley); $18. Estate-grown, this cap-

tures the racy minerality of the Spanish grape,while amping it up to New World fruit standards.So you get a fruit-powered richness, with citrusand peach, along with lively acidity and a steelycore. The new vintage marks a big step forwardfor this variety at Abacela. —P.G.

89 Adelsheim 2009 Ribbon SpringsVineyard Auxerrois (Ribbon

Ridge); $22. Auxerrois, a cross between PinotNoir and Gouais Blanc, creates an aromatic,lively, citrus and pear fruit-flavored white winewith a delicious mix of fruit, spice and even a hintof white chocolate. Fresh and more interestingthan many Chardonnays, this is a sure-fire crowd-pleaser at any picnic or barbecue. —P.G.

85 Springhouse Cellar 2008 DrawingA Blanc Sauvignon Blanc (Colum-

bia Gorge); $18. Young, yeasty, almost to thepoint of being beery, this thin Sauvignon Blancrecalls a Vinho Verde. Cucumber and fennel fla-vors dominate, along with plenty of acidity. —P.G.

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84 Château Bianca 2008 WetzelE s t a t e G e w ü r z t r a m i n e r

(Willamette Valley); $15. The fruit has a bitof the floral/soapy character of the grape, butlacks depth. It just floats away. —P.G.

DESSERT WINE

87 David Hil l 2006 Port Muscat(Willamette Valley); $28. This might

be called banana Port, for a rich, banana flavor iswhat dominates. Of course, with Muscat, you willalso find tangerine and orange, like a tangy sauceover the richer, creamier banana. You’ve got tothink—pair this with a banana split? Could be thedessert of the century! —P.G.

WASHINGTONVIOGNIER

92 àMaurice 2008 Viognier (ColumbiaValley); $25. Barrel fermented, pure

Viognier with a vibrant core of juicy, lemon/limefruit. There’s pink grapefruit and sweet pineap-ple, all set against pleasing phenolics that providea firm framework. The mouthfeel is lush and thefinish clear and lightly mineral. —P.G.

92 àMaurice 2009 Sparrow Viognier(Walla Walla); $33. The second vin-

tage from the estate vineyard, this is rich andhoneyed, scented with bee pollen, candle wax,hints of pine needle. Meyer lemon, caramel,honey and more coat the palate. Still very young,but all the pieces are there. —P.G.

91 àMaurice 2007 Viognier (Colum-bia Valley); $25. Fine effort, lightly

toasty, lightly buttery, still varietal with pleasinglime, orange marmalade and suggestions ofpineapple. Excellent mouthfeel and balance, withexceptional smoothness. —P.G.

91 Ott & Murphy 2008 Viognier(Columbia Valley); $20. An interest-

ing debut from this new producer. The blendincludes 20% Roussanne, co-fermented in neu-tral French oak. It was aged sur lie and givenmonthly battonage, and no malolactic fermenta-tion. The wine is big, with juicy tropical fruit/bub-blegum flavors, skin phenolics, great texture andbaking spice highlights. Impressive. —P.G.

90 Coeur d ’A lene Ce l la rs 2008L’Artiste Viognier (Washington);

$24. This is 100% Viognier, all stainless steel fer-mented, with more guts and concentration thanthe creamier barrel-fermented Viognier from thiswinery. Lime and pineapple fruit flavors are brac-ing and clean, moving into light peach and tan-gerine as they persist in the mouth. —P.G.

90 Lullaby 2008 Viognier (WallaWalla); $28. Pure Viognier from the

Dwelley Vineyard, barrel-fermented, aged on thelees in neutral oak. A light and elegant style,creamy and loaded with Key lime fruit and tex-ture along with nectarine and light tropical fruits.Complex and lingering, with clarity and defini-tion. —P.G.

90 Seven Hills 2009 Talcott VineyardViognier (Columbia Valley); $20.

The smooth, silky, satiny nose erupts with layersof lemon, lime, tangerine and melon. The pretty,slightly waxy mouthfeel is not unctuous but hasgood body, precise definition, and no jaggededges. The alcohol stays under 14%, and the fin-ish is round and persistent. —P.G.

88 Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2008 Viog-nier (Washington); $20. Creamy and

smooth, this barrel-fermented Viognier has peachand citrus fruit, with grace notes of ginger andnutmeg. There is even a hint of honey as it gath-ers strength in the back of the throat, with notice-able alcohol also. —P.G.

88 Watermill 2008 Viognier (Colum-bia Valley); $14. A quick sniff and

you’re converted to this cool, refreshing whitewine. The aromas carry the promise of citrus rindand sea salt; that tangy character livens up thecool fruit flavors also. Aged in stainless and neu-tral oak, just enough to soften up the midpalatewhile retaining its crisp definition. —P.G.

87 Gamache Vintners 2008 VelidaEstate Viognier (Columbia Valley);

$18. Though the bottle says this hits 14.8% alco-hol, it does not have the weight and depth thatyou might expect from that number. The heat isthere, but the fruit is restrained, lightly herba-ceous, showing some mild lemon and tangerineflavors, and a lick of quinine. —P.G.

CHARDONNAY

91 àMaur i ce 2007 Chardonnay(Columbia Valley); $28. As with the

last vintage, this has been sourced from Lewis,Willard and Conner Lee vineyards. Scents ofcoconut and other tropical fruits lead into flavorshinting at banana cream, lime, white peach, andpapaya. The finish brings in brioche, caramel andmedium toast. A yum-fest. —P.G.

90 àMaur i ce 2006 Chardonnay(Columbia Valley); $28. Barrel fer-

mented, soft and ripe with bright fruits, especiallybanana, but also pear, apricot, peach and citrus.Rich and creamy, it combines sweet barrel toastwith a hint of honey. Lush through the finish,which adds caramel and cinnamon toast. —P.G.

90 Gordon Brothers 2008 ReserveChardonnay (Columbia Valley);

$23. Organically grown estate grapes lend cre-dence to the reserve designation. This is a gener-ous wine, deftly matching its pineapple, citrusand peach flavors to sweet oak. Still young, sodecant it or give it another year or two of bottleage. —P.G.

89 Patit Creek Cellars 2009 Chardon-nay (Red Mountain); $19. From the

original Kiona vineyard planting in 1975, this big,lush Chardonnay fills the palate with ripe bananaand stone fruit flavors. It was barrel fermented,then moved to stainless, and put through partialmalolactic. Good definition, acidity, and a hint ofminerality. —P.G.

89 Tamarack Cellars 2008 Chardon-nay (Columbia Valley); $18. Pressed

directly to barrel prior to fermentation, it’s dustyand fragrant, capturing the higher acidity of thevintage, and some underlying minerality. This2008 does not have the ripe peachiness of theprevious year, but the citrus/pineapple fruitmakes an excellent food wine, stylish and afford-able. —P.G.

88 Arbor Crest 2007 Connor LeeVineyard Chardonnay (Columbia

Valley); $18. This is barrel fermented, and it’sfor the consumer who loves the oakier style ofChardonnay. This excellent vineyard has the fruitconcentration and acidity to stand up to the bar-rel flavors. —P.G.

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88 Basel Cellars 2008 Chardonnay(Columbia Valley); $24. Soft, creamy

and buttery, this will surely please those who likea banana cream pie style of Chardonnay. There’speaches in there too, and papaya—a lot of ripefruit, nicely matched to the oak flavors. Drinknow. —P.G.

87 Coeur d ’A lene Ce l la rs 2008Chardonnay (Washington); $20.

Smooth and fruity, this shows the banana/tropicalside of the grape, enlivened by some brighterWashington acidity. It’s creamy and carries astreak of vanilla into the finish. —P.G.

87 Duck Pond 2008 Desert WindVineyard Chardonnay (Wahluke

Slope); $15. A very pleasant offering fromDuck Pond, this is lightly toasty, moderatelyfruity, broad on the palate, with a gentle mix ofpear and apple flavors. Smooth and drinking at itspeak. —P.G.

87 Six Prong 2007 Chardonnay (HorseHeaven Hills); $11. Firm and fresh,

this puts pear and apple fruit front and center.There are some skin flavors also, lending a bit ofphenolic bite to the finish. Best Buy. —P.G.

87 Three Rivers 2008 Chardonnay(Columbia Valley); $19. Very soft, it

feels like the vinous equivalent of a creampuff.The fruit is lightly tropical, with notes of carameland banana, cut through with a streak of citrusand apple. —P.G.

86 DaMa 2009 Chardonnay (Colum-bia Valley); $21. A full, fruity, slightly

hot Chardonnay. The barrel aging—all French,60% new—brings the expected toastiness. Thisis a solidly made, fruit-forward style, immediatelyready for drinking. —P.G.

84 Tor i i Mor 2008 Chardonnay(Washington-Oregon); $18. Essen-

tially a Washington Chardonnay (with just 6% ofthe fruit sourced in Oregon), this is sharp-tonedand slightly volatile in the nose. It falls a little flatin the mouth, tasting like a soft banana, and fadesquickly. —P.G.

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

88 Waterbrook 2008 Pinot Gris(Columbia Valley); $13. Bold and

fruity, this runs through a spectrum from tartlemon to ripe pineapple to hints of somethingriper and sweeter, like banana or papaya. A goodalternative to Chardonnay for those who favorfruit over oak. Best Buy. —P.G.

87 Buried Cane 2008 Pinot Grigio(Washington); $15. Light and juicy,

with fresh apple flavors and good acidity. A goodwine for serving chilled and enjoying outdoors.—P.G.

87 Milbrandt 2008 Traditions PinotGris (Columbia Valley); $13. Lightly

spritzy, sharp and focused, this Pinot Gris bringsin apples and pears, fruit skin and wet stone. It’snicely balanced and ready for food. —P.G.

RIESLING

93 Dunham Cellars 2008 Lewis EstateVineyard Riesling (Columbia Val-

ley); $22. You will find great concentration inthis fruit, a beguiling play of citrus, grapefruit,peach, apricot and light tropical. It’s infused witha resinous streak that complements the fruit andlifts the midpalate. Sugars and acids are in perfectcounterpoint—it’s close to dry but with such rich-ness that it could take on spicy Asian fare. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G.

92 Gamache Vintners 2008 EstateRiesling (Columbia Valley); $18.

This ripe and rich Riesling continues a string ofsuccesses with this grape from Gamache Vint-ners. The alcohol is just 12.5%, and the wine hassome light sweetness, but what stands out best isthe succulent mix of tropical fruits. Big and plushflavors of banana, papaya, guava and pineapplecome through, yet the wine retains its balanceand detail. —P.G.

91 Arbor Crest 2009 Dionysus Vine-yard Riesling (Columbia Valley);

$8. This is fruit sourced from a 1972 planting—single-vineyard, old-vine Riesling at an amazingprice. Done in a big, round, fruity, off-dry style,it’s loaded with sweet pineapple, Meyer lemonand honey peach flavors. The fruit concentrationis spectacular, and yet the wine retains enoughacidity to feel balanced against the 3.5% residualsugar. Serve with hot and spicy Asian fare, or witha peach cobbler for dessert. Best Buy. —P.G.

91 J. Bookwalter 2009 AnecdoteRiesling (Columbia Valley); $15.

This is an interesting style, with good density andabout 1% residual sugar. The sweetness does notshow; this is almost dry, with compact fruit flavorsof lemon, orange, candied pineapple, hints ofpear and a firm thread through the middle thatgives it some phenolic bite. Drink chilled and itwill stand up well to firm seafood such as halibut.—P.G.

91 Seven Hills 2009 Riesling (Colum-bia Valley); $14. One of the most

underrated Rieslings from Washington, SevenHills always delivers the goods. This is off-dry butdrinks as dry. Bonus: the alcohol is around 11%.Wonderfully fragrant and stony, it seems dustedwith lemon and honey, tea and a hint of orangemarmalade. In the mouth it turns rich and sub-stantial, yet the floral highlights remain. BestBuy. —P.G.

91 Tempus Cellars 2009 EvergreenVineyard Riesling (Columbia Val-

ley); $16. An impressive first Riesling fromTempus Cellars, using grapes from one of Wash-ington’s premier Riesling vineyards. Refreshingand lively, loaded with citrus, green apple andlight pineapple fruit flavors, this warm-weathersipping wine is quite bracing, with residual sugarjust over 1% and alcohol at a moderate 11.8% —P.G.

91 Zero One Vintners 2008 GoldenDelicious Riesling (Columbia Val-

ley); $16. Sourced from Gamache vineyardgrapes, this is a fine follow-up to Zero One’sdebut vintage. It’s packed with fruit flavors, run-ning the gamut from Meyer lemon to candiedpapaya. The natural acidity keeps it all in balanceand perfectly counterpoints the residual sugar,pegged at 2.1%. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.

88 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Ries-ling (Columbia Valley); $9. Lovely

aromas pour from the glass, a heady mix of lime,Asian pear, cucumber and apple. In the mouthsome sweet honey pours over the crisp fruit, andthe wine feels lush and perfectly melded, despiteits youth. Residual sugar is under 2% and thealcohol just 12%. Best Buy. —P.G.

88 Kana 2008 Katie Mae White TableWine Riesling (Columbia Valley);

$14. Though labeled simply White Table Wine,this is all Riesling, done in an off-dry (3.1% resid-

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ual sugar) style. The fruit is a powerful burst ofapricot and peach, annotated with honey andcaramel apples. It’s sweet enough to have a littlebrown sugar-style graininess as well; could workwith some desserts but also with spicy foods ifthe wine is well chilled. —P.G.

88 Patit Creek Cellars 2009 SagemoorVineyards Riesling (Columbia Val-

ley); $16. Give this wine some airing out to letthe SO2 blow off, and it will reward you with apleasant mix of orange peel, sweet citrus and hon-eydew fruit. The residual sugar is 1.35%, but itfeels a bit sugary in the mouth—definitely in theoff-dry camp. Some of the fruit is from a 1973Sagemoor block, among the oldest Riesling inWashington. —P.G.

87 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Har-vest Select Riesling (Columbia Val-

ley); $9. A new offering from the country’slargest producer of Rieslings, this fits an emerg-ing off-dry category, with 11% alcohol and 4.7%residual sugar. It’s a slightly sweeter companion tothe winery’s popular Columbia Valley bottling,with more of the honey and tea, less of the coolfruit flavors. Best Buy. —P.G.

85 Columbia 2008 Cellarmaster’sRiesling (Columbia Valley); $12.

Nicely perfumed with a musky/grapey scent, thislow alcohol (10.4%) sweet Riesling is pleasantand clean, but a bit attenuated. It has plenty ofsugary honey and some simple canned peachfruit, but stops there. —P.G.

85 Covey Run 2008 Reserve Late Har-vest Riesling (Columbia Valley);

$12. Despite the reserve and late harvest desig-nations, this fits in more comfortably with a stan-dard, off-dry Washington Riesling. The 4%residual sugar is muted by good acidity and firmpear and peach fruit. There’s some phenolic bitein the finish, and a hint of plastic. —P.G.

ROUSSANNE

91 Maison Bleue 2008 La Vie DouceRoussanne (Horse Heaven Hills);

$20. Here is an off-dry Roussanne absolutelybursting with delicious flavors of Meyer lemon,breakfast tea, yellow tropical fruits and hints ofpapaya. It’s all set against vibrant natural aciditythat keeps it food-friendly rather than limiting itto dessert. —P.G.

88 J. Scott Cellars 2008 Roussanne(Columbia Valley); $18. Most likely

sourced from Washington grapes, this is plumpand pleasing, peachy and polished. Ripe, roundfruit flavors roll into a bright, slightly hot finish.Peach skin phenolics linger in the mouth, puttinga fine edge on the flavors and setting up thepalate for the next sip. —P.G.

85 SuLei Cellars 2009 Roussanne(Walla Walla); $18. Celery and raw

wood in the nose, then some light, green fruitscome into play in the mouth. As it breathes openthere are floral overtones and a hint of honey—aglimmer of varietal character. —P.G.

WHITE BLENDS

90 Kana 2008 Masterpiece ElephantMountain V ineyard Reserve

(Yakima Valley); $20. Impressive. This Viog-nier/Marsanne/Roussanne blend showcases sub-stantial, layered fruit flavors of citrus skin, citruspulp, grapefruit and white peach. The Viognierwas done in stainless, the other grapes in barrel,bringing in subtle notes of vanilla. Spicy, full-bod-ied and just plain delicious. —P.G.

89 Z’IVO 2007 Three White WineWhite Blend (Washington-Ore-

gon); $18. An unusual mix of Melon (fromEyrie) and Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc(from Washington’s Lonesome Springs vineyard).All grapes were barrel-fermented, and the blendworks nicely. This wine has a supple, creamymouthfeel, wrapping its citrus, pineapple andMeyer lemon fruit in buttery toast, all nicely bal-anced. —P.G.

86 Waterbrook 2008 Mélange Blanc(Columbia Valley); $15. Off-dry with

a candied orange character, this is indeed amélange, including portions of seven differentwhite wine grapes. It’s an interesting wine,though might prove a bit challenging to match tofood. Perhaps a curry? —P.G.

83 Kontos Cellars 2009 LeeVeLooLeeGossamer (Columbia Valley); $22.

This is two thirds Chardonnay and the rest aViognier/Roussanne blend. There is something alittle off-putting in the aromas, a hint of volatilityand sweatiness. In the mouth it is a simple,generic dry white. —P.G.

OTHER WHITE WINES

90 Francis Tannahill 2007 DragonflyGewürztraminer (Washington);

$25. Unctuous, floral and perfumed, this Wash-ington-sourced Gewürztraminer is bold andfruity, lush and mouthfilling. It spreads out grace-fully and fully across the palate, coating thetongue with a honeyed mix of citrus and tropicalfruits, spiced up with a hint of garlic chive. Denseand concentrated, this is sure to appeal to thosewho love this grape. —P.G.

88 Cadaretta 2009 sbs SauvignonBlanc-Semillon (Columbia Valley);

$23. An Aussie-style blend of 78% SauvignonBlanc and 22% Sémillon. It’s been a real successfor Cadaretta, and this is in the same mold as pre-vious efforts. Tasted just prior to release, it wasloaded with crisp, primary fruit flavors of greenapple, melon and grapefruit. Nice texture, andjust a hint of barrel toast too. —P.G.

87 Shoot ing Star 2007 Al igoté(Washington); $13. This unique wine,

made in California by Jed Steele, is sourced fromWashington’s only planting of Aligoté. Bright andspicy, it’s anchored with solid apple/pear fruit fla-vors and zippy acidity. —P.G.

OTHER RED WINES

85 Shooting Star 2007 Blue FrancBlaufränkisch (Washington); $13.

This opens with lots of spice, tart and light redfruits and some strongly herbal tannins. There is abig wash of sweet baking spice, source unknown,that offsets the stemmy and herbal quality of thefruit. —P.G.

IDAHORIESLING

88 Ste. Chapelle 2008 Dry Riesling(Snake River Valley); $8. Ste.

Chapelle pioneered modern-era viticulture inIdaho, and for many years Riesling was the win-ery’s main calling card. This new release, fromthe newly minted Snake River Valley AVA, show-cases many of the region’s strengths—delicatedetail, honeysuckle and citrus blossom aromas

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mixed with citrus rind flavors, and a pleasing min-erality. Best Buy. —P.G.

88 Ste. Chapelle 2008 Special HarvestRiesling (Snake River Valley); $10.

Lovely natural acidity keeps this sweet wine lighton its feet, underscoring the honeyed pear fruitflavors with grapefruit and a hint of minerality.For a wine in this price range, with 11,000 caseproduction levels, it’s a marvelous achievement.Best Buy. —P.G.

CALIFORNIARED WINESPINOT NOIR

96 Freeman 2008 Keefer Ranch PinotNoir (Russian River Valley); $47. So

pale in color, it’s hard to believe it packs so muchflavor. Stuns with the complexity of its cherries,raspberries and cola, with fantastically spicynotes. Hard to describe just how intricate it feels,changing by the second as the palate uncoversadditional nuances. The vineyard, which is inGreen Valley, is coveted among Pinot Noir wine-makers. A very great Pinot Noir, defining silki-ness and delicacy, and should age effortlessly forat least the next six years. —S.H.

94 Baxter 2007 Run Dog VineyardPinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $45.

An exotic Pinot of a type usually limited to Ander-son Valley. It’s marked as much by gamy, mush-room and forest floor notes as by raspberries,cherries and red currants, with notes of licoriceand pepper. Drily crisp and elegantly con-structed, this complex young wine should developfor 4–6 years. —S.H.

93 Baxter 2007 Toulouse VineyardPinot Noir (Anderson Valley); $45.

A very rich Pinot Noir, filled with deliciouscherry, raspberry, cedar and spice flavors, as wellas an umami bacon smokiness. Balanced withcrisp acidity and very fine tannins. Beautiful nowand through 2013. —S.H.

93 Baxter 2007 Oppenlander Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino); $60.

A fresh, vibrant but tight young Pinot Noir. It’srich in wild raspberry, cherry and cola flavors,enhanced with spicy oak, and firm in acidity and

tannins. Should be cellared for a good 3–5 years.Cellar Selection. —S.H.

92 Dragonette 2008 Fiddlestix Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills);

$45. A first-class Pinot from this great vineyard,in the heart of the southern Santa Rita Hills. Thewine is dry and silky and super-complex, offeringwaves of raspberry tart, cherry pie, cola, sweet oakand dusty Asian spice flavors. For all the richness,it’s dry and crisp in acidity. Now–2014. —S.H.

92 Longoria 2008 Rancho Santa RosaVineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita

Hills); $45. A big, bold, intense, nervy PinotNoir that needs time in the cellar to settle down.Notable for the power of fruit, offering a blast ofcherries, red currants, red licorice and pomegran-ates, while oak adds sweet, smoky toastiness. Asuccess of the vintage. Give it until mid-2011 tocome around. —S.H.

92 Longoria 2008 Bien Nacido Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val-

ley); $45. Quite a good Pinot Noir, but it needssome time to evolve beyond its youthful gawki-ness. Bone dry and fairly tannic, it’s marked bynotable acidity. The flavors are complex, rangingfrom cherries and tangerine zest to cola, pome-granate and smoky sandalwood. Hold until after2011. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

91 Kendric 2007 Pinot Noir (MarinCounty); $34. Kendric’s best Pinot yet,

from this magnificent vintage. Strikes a fine bal-ance between lushness of raspberry fruit and astony crispness that pulls back tantalizingly intodryness and minerality, then returns to spicy rich-ness on the finish. It will be interesting to watchthis wine evolve over the next 4–8 years. —S.H.

91 Roadhouse Winery 2008 Pinot Noir(Russian River Valley); $49. A nice,

silky and tasty Pinot Noir. It’s dry and crisp, withcherry and raspberry purée flavors accented withcinnamon, cocoa and smoky sandalwood. Readynow and soon for its youthful appeal. —S.H.

91 Three Sticks 2007 Durell VineyardPinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $55.

Caramelized oak dominates this Pinot Noir.Below that toasty char is an extremely ripe winethat seems to define long hangtime. The cherryflavors approach red currants and have sugges-tions of shriveled berries that veer into licoriceand grilled fruit. It’s quite complex, but juvenile,

with a youthful impertinence. Best to give it 3–5years to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

90 Dragonette 2008 Cargasacchi-Jalama Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills);

$38. Delicious and exotic, with raspberry, cherry,Mandarin orange, date, cinnamon spice andsweet oak flavors that are deep and long on thefinish. Amazing that the alcohol is so low for theripeness. Could be brisker in acidity, as it feelssomewhat melted, which limits ageability, but it’sa beauty now with lamb chops. —S.H.

90 Fess Parker 2008 Ashley’s PinotNoir (Sta. Rita Hills); $50. Young

now, with unintegrated oak, acidity and fruit. Theparts want to come together, but need time.Really potent in cherry, currant, orange zest,licorice, Indian spice and sandalwood flavors thatfinish dry and intense. Give it until mid-2011.Cellar Selection. —S.H.

90 Longoria 2008 Lovely Rita PinotNoir (Sta. Rita Hills); $32. This is a

blend of various vineyards Longoria accesses, andcompared to his more expensive bottlings, it’s agood value. Dry and silky, it has complex flavorsof cherries, red currants, pomegranates, cola,Indian spices and sandalwood. Drink now. —S.H.

90 Siduri 2008 Keefer Ranch Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-

ley); $48. Rather tannic and dense now, with anastringent mouthfeel, and the fruit hasn’t yetmarried the oak. Give it until 2011 to let the rasp-berries, cherries, orange peel and cola find thevanilla char from wood. —S.H.

90 Sojourn 2008 Gap’s Crown Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast);

$48. A beautiful Pinot Noir notable for thepurity of its structure. Shows really polished tan-nins and crisp coastal acidity, as well as a finecoating of smoky oak. It all frames flavors of cher-ries and raspberries. Could be a little more con-centrated, but it’s a pretty wine. —S.H.

89 Sierra Madre 2008 Sierra MadreVineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria

Valley); $40. An enormously fruity wine whosemain appeal is its vast array of flavor. Cherries,raspberries, red currants, licorice, Dr. Peppercola and milk chocolate flood the mouth, offsetby crisp acidity and accented with sweet oak. Bestnow for its soft deliciousness. —S.H.

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89 Sojourn 2008 Sangiacomo Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast);

$48. Good and complex in cherry, raspberry,orange zest and vanilla oak flavors that finishdeep and long in a dusty swirl of Indian spices. Avery nice Pinot Noir, although it’s pretty sharp inzingy acidity. Give it a few hours of decantingbefore serving. —S.H.

88 Beauregard 2007 Bald MountainVineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir

(Ben Lomond Mountain); $45. A good PinotNoir, dry and silky, with quite a bit of aciditybrightening the flavors. They include ripe blackcherries, cola, anise and sandalwood. Feels a bittight, and could benefit from 1–2 years in the cel-lar. —S.H.

88 Fess Parker 2008 Clone 115 PinotNoir (Sta. Rita Hills); $55. This is a

big, dense Pinot Noir, and quite a good one,although it’s a bit sharp in acidity. Really packs inthe black cherry and oak flavors, with a long, redlicorice finish, but it’s immature, and needs timeto come together. Give it 2–3 years. —S.H.

88 Fess Parker 2008 Bien NacidoVineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Bar-

bara County); $50. A big, rich, exuberantPinot Noir. Floods the mouth with cherry pie,raspberry tart, vanilla and sweet oak flavors thatare frankly delicious. It’s a bit one-dimensional,but clean and crisp. Best now. —S.H.

88 Pali 2008 Fiddlestix Vineyard PinotNoir (Sta. Rita Hills); $44. You’ll find

lovely, complex flavors of raspberries, cherries,red currants, spices and smoky vanilla notes fromoak in this dry, pleasant wine. It’s also very tart,biting into the palate with a cut of acidity, whichseems to be a trait of the vintage. Good now, if alittle direct. —S.H.

88 Roadhouse Winery 2008 PinotNoir (Sonoma Coast); $44. A solid

coastal Pinot. Shows lots of typicity in the dry-ness, crisp acidity and earthy, mushroomy flavorsof cherries, and the way the tannins scour thepalate. Drinks a bit hard now. Give it a year ortwo in the cellar. —S.H.

88 Roadhouse Winery 2008 Pinot Noir(Santa Lucia Highlands); $47. A very

dry Pinot Noir, notable more for its clean elegancethan opulence. Feels really sleek and crisp in themouth, almost like a white wine. The flavors sug-

gest tart cherries with the skins, peppery spicesand a touch of cedar. Drink now. —S.H.

88 Siduri 2008 Amber Ridge VineyardPinot Noir (Russian River Valley);

$45. A flavorful, well-made Pinot for drinkingnow. Has a nice, silky texture, with brisk acidityframing savory raspberries, cherries, cola, vanillaand exotic sandalwood. —S.H.

88 Sojourn 2008 Pinot Noir (SonomaCoast); $39. A very nice Pinot Noir

that’s likeable for its silky texture, crisp acidityand cherry, raspberry and Dr. Pepper cola flavors,with a long, spicy finish. Seems at its best now, sodrink up. —S.H.

87 Babcock 2008 Grand Cuvee PinotNoir (Sta. Rita Hills); $40. Elegant

structure on this wine, with a graceful silkiness,although it’s a bit lacking in concentration, espe-cially at this price. Shows jammy cherry, rasp-berry and spice flavors, with a coating of smokyoak. —S.H.

87 Fess Parker 2008 Pommard ClonePinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $55. A

lovely Pinot Noir for drinking now. Could be abit more intense, and finishes rather quickly, butin between is a nice, dry, silky wine, with soft,intricate cherry, cola, spice and sandalwood fla-vors. —S.H.

87 Molnar Family 2008 Poseidon’sVineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros);

$30. You’ll find some tart acidity in this dry PinotNoir, which comes from the Napa side ofCarneros. The tartness gives it a noticeable bite,but the flavors are very rich. They suggest cher-ries and raspberries, with notable contributionsfrom oak. Ready now. —S.H.

87 Siduri 2008 Sonatera VineyardPinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); $45. A

bit heavy and dense in raspberry and cola fruit,with a curiously soft mouthfeel, yet there seemsto be good acidity as you swallow. Could just beunresolved now. Give it a year or two to comearound. —S.H.

87 Siduri 2008 Pinot Noir (Sta. RitaHills); $30. A rich, candied Pinot Noir,

filled with raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors.It’s a bit simple, but deliciously so, with a crisplysilky texture. —S.H.

87 Sierra Madre 2008 Block 216Clone 5 Pommard Pinot Noir

(Santa Maria Valley); $48. Rich in cherries,raspberries, licorice, cola and sandalwood, thisPinot finishes dry and spicy. It has a lovely, silkymouthfeel, yet is quite sharp in acidity, and a bitone-dimensional. Best now. —S.H.

87 Six Sigma 2007 Christian’s Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Lake County);

$45. Dark fruits characterize this young, vigorouswine. Black cherries, blackberries, even darkchocolate flood the palate, delicious and spicy.Yet there’s a tannic, acidic tightness that makesthe mouthfeel tough and gritty. One of the betterLake County Pinots out there, but work needs tobe done. —S.H.

87 Sojourn 2008 Rodgers Creek Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast);

$48. High in acidity, with a nice silky texture andbone dry. It’s a very good wine, but despite somemodest cherry, raspberry and licorice flavors, itlacks richness, particularly at this price. —S.H.

86 Clos La Chance 2007 Biagini Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Moun-

tains); $50. Tart, with an acidic mouthfeel thatintrudes on the ripe cherry, red currant and colaflavors. Could be a bit more mellow. May developfor a few years, but that sharpness isn’t likely togo away. —S.H.

86 CRU Winery 2008 AppellationsSeries Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val-

ley); $35. Made in an exaggerated tutti-fruitystyle, with candied raspberry and mocha flavors.The mouthfeel is nicely silky, with a brisk flourishof acidity. Drink now. —S.H.

86 CRU Winery 2008 AppellationsSeries Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia

Highlands); $30. A super-fruity, direct Pinot,rather one-dimensional in cherry, raspberry andmocha flavors. Dry and crisp, with a silky texture,it’s a good wine to drink now. —S.H.

86 CRU Winery 2008 Vineyard Mon-tage Pinot Noir (Central Coast);

$24. A serviceable Pinot Noir, rich in fruity rasp-berries and cherries, with a touch of sweet oak.Easy to drink with roast salmon, grilled sausages,or a nice, plump ham. —S.H.

86 C u v a i s o n 2 0 0 8 P i n o t N o i r(Carneros); $33. This winery’s basic

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Pinot has had a mixed record over the years. The’08 is dry and silky, but not particularly interestingat this price. It has gentle cherry, raspberry, cola,spice and oak flavors, offset by crisp acids. Drinknow. —S.H.

86 Pali 2008 Summit Pinot Noir (Cen-tral Coast); $29. This is a blend from

Monterey and Santa Barbara counties. It’s a dry,crisp, useful Pinot Noir. Fifty percent newFrench oak gives a smoky, charry overlay to thecherry, red currant and licorice flavors. —S.H.

86 Pali 2008 Durell Vineyard PinotNoir (Sonoma Coast); $44. Smells

and tastes overoaked, with toothpicky vanilla andsmoky char notes. The amount of new Frenchwood was 50%. The jammy raspberry, cherry andcurrant fruit just isn’t intense or complex enoughto support all that weight. Drink now. —S.H.

86 Sonoma-Cutrer 2007 Pinot Noir(Russian River Valley); $40. Minty

and sharp in acidity, and not offering much rich-ness now, especially at this price, although it doesfeel stylishly dry and elegant. Shows propercherry, cola and sandalwood flavors. —S.H.

85 Hahn 2008 Pinot Noir (Monterey);$12. A sound Pinot Noir that’s dry and

silky. Shows gentle, jammy flavors of cherries,raspberries and sandalwood. Easy to like withgrilled salmon, ham, sausage fritatta. —S.H.

85 Pali 2008 Keefer Ranch VineyardPinot Noir (Russian River Valley);

$44. Too acidic and tart in wintergreen flavors, areal disappointment from this well-regarded vine-yard. On the plus side, it’s bone dry and silky, andshows cherry and cola flavors accented withsweet, smoky oak. Ready to drink now. —S.H.

84 Aquinas 2008 Pinot Noir (NapaValley); $15. Not a whole lot going on

in this Pinot. It’s thin in cherry and cola flavors,with a touch of oak. On the plus side is a nice,silky dryness. —S.H.

84 Carmel Road 2008 Pinot Noir(Monterey); $20. Soft and semisweet,

with jammy raspberry flavors sprinkled withsugar. The texture is nice and silky. —S.H.

84 Concannon 2008 Limited ReleasePinot Noir (Central Coast); $15.

Shows a drier, leaner side of Pinot Noir, with

leather, cola and cherry flavors as well as crispacidity. Clean and uncomplicated, it’s a decentwine for drinking now with a salmon salad sand-wich. —S.H.

84 Redtree 2009 Pinot Noir (Califor-nia); $8. Good price for an everyday

Pinot Noir. It’s not particularly complex, butshows a nice, silky texture, with good acidity andfirm dryness. The flavors are of cherries and oak.Best Buy. —S.H.

83 Flock by Smoking Loon 2008 FlockPinot Noir (Monterey); $15. A

decent Pinot with lots of upfront fruit, if a bit softand short on the finish. Shows candied raspber-ries, cherries and spices. —S.H.

82 Concannon 2008 Reserve PinotNoir (San Luis Obispo County);

$30. Bone dry and vegetal, with high acidity.Saved, just barely, by some good cherry and oakflavors. —S.H.

82 Copeland Creek 2005 Pinot Noir(Sonoma Coast); $30. Acidic to the

point of sour, with a Lifesaver candy raspberryflavor. At least it’s dry. —S.H.

82 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2007 WestPinnacles Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Monterey County); $30. Not quite ripe, withgreen, vegetal notes suggesting asparagus. Thiswas a cool vintage, and the wine is from a coolarea. —S.H.

82 Smoking Loon 2008 Pinot Noir(California); $8. Pretty harsh and

unrewarding, even for this price. It’s soft and sim-ple, with Lifesaver raspberry flavors. —S.H.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

96 Chappellet 2007 Pritchard HillCabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val-

ley); $135. This is a monster Cabernet, in thebest sense. Comprised of all five Bordeaux vari-eties, it’s bone dry, enormously complex andfirmly masculine, with very big, hard tannins.Concentration on the flavors shows layers ofblackberries, black currants, blueberries, mocha,violets, sweet charred oak and a firm groundingof minerals. An outstanding wine from thePritchard Hill region east of the Silverado Trail,but one that needs cellar time to resolve the tan-

nins. Better after 2013, and should develop formany years after that. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

95 Ghost Block 2007 Single VineyardCabernet Sauvignon (Yountville);

$100. A terrific Cabernet you want to cellar for agood 5–6 years, at the very least, and could go farlonger. Shows what Yountville can do in a goodyear. The wine is very dry and more minerallythan further north, yet is extraordinarily rich inblackberries, chocolate-covered cherries and cas-sis, with a perfumed scent of violets. The mouth-feel is all velvet and satin—so pretty and refined.Cellar Selection. —S.H.

95 Robert Mondavi 2007 ReserveCabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val-

ley); $135. Bone dry and utterly balanced, withdeeply powerful, long-lasting flavors of blackber-ries and black currants and an intense, but inte-grated, coating of smoky oak. But it’s also verytannic. Nothing soft about this wine. As fine acellar candidate as any Mondavi Reserve in years.Should develop for 12, 15, even 20 years. CellarSelection. —S.H.

95 Trinchero 2007 Cloud’s Nest Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount

Veeder); $50. A lovely Cabernet, brimmingwith complex blackberry, cherry, mineral, tobaccoand cedar flavors that impress for their sheerpower. Shows the firm, hard tannins this moun-tain always lends Cabs, but they’re so finelyground, the wine is drinkable now with a gooddecanting. Should age well for a decade. Editors’Choice. —S.H.

94 Chappellet 2007 Signature Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $42.

This is the winery’s basic Cabernet, but there’snothing common about it. It’s dry and complexand moderately ageworthy, a hillside Cabernetthat revels in its plush, firm tannins and ripe fruit.There’s a minerality that seems to come from thesoil, with expressive blackberry, currant, choco-late and anise flavors. Really fine now after adecant, and should develop through this decade.—S.H.

94 Silverado 2006 Solo CabernetSauvignon (Stags Leap District);

$90. Not ready to open now, it’s just too tannic,although the flavors are so ripe and lush, theyerupt right through the numbing astringency.Floods the mouth with ripe red stone fruits,berries and currants, as well as earthier notes of

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herbs, carob and minerals. The oak is stronglysensed, but entirely in keeping with the wine’svolume. Cellar this very fine wine until at least2012, and it should develop for many years there-after. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

93 Cuvaison 2007 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Mount Veeder); $39. A beau-

tiful Cabernet, whose mountain origins show inthe firm tannins and concentrated blackberryand black currant fruit. Notes of minerals andviolets complicate things, as does rich oak. Veryfine and delicious, but obviously needs time inthe cellar. Should develop well over the next 6–10years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

93 Ghost Block 2007 Estate CabernetSauvignon (Oakville); $60. A beauti-

ful Cabernet. Dark, dry and elegantly structured,it has classic Napa tannins and is nicely trimmedin acidity. The flavors are complex and delicious,suggesting ripe blackberries, black currants andcedar. Drink now–2015. —S.H.

93 Oakvil le Winery 2007 EstateGrown & Produced Cabernet

Sauvignon (Oakville); $46. Very ripe andextracted, almost jammy, with primary fruit fla-vors of blackberries, black cherries, red plums,currants, dark chocolate and spices. Delicious andnoble, but kind of immature. Give it 4–6 years tosoften and integrate, and it could develop evenlonger. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

93 Trinchero 2007 Haystack VineyardCabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak);

$50. A wonderful Cabernet, rich and dry. Thealcohol is fairly high, but in keeping with thewine’s power. The fruity blackberry and currantflavors are balanced by refreshingly earthy notesof olives and sweet herbs. Should developthrough 2013. —S.H.

92 Cali 351 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon(Napa Valley); $49. This is a big, vital

Cabernet, rich in fruit and sweetly smoked oak,and the tannins are classic Napa Valley, softly com-plex and ripe. Really strikes you for the deliciousflavors of blackberries, cherries, currants, licorice,mocha and dried herbs. Now–2013. —S.H.

92 Star Lane Vineyard 2006 CabernetSauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley);

$42. Quite a sophisticated Cab, and one thatshows the promise of Happy Canyon, whichbecame an appellation this year. The wine is much

drier and leaner than anything in Napa, but quiteelegant and intense in blackberries, black currantsand dried herbs. It’s a worthy successor to the veryfine 2005. The alcohol is 15.1%. —S.H.

92 Tor Kenward 2007 CimarossaVineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

(Howell Mountain); $75. A very boldly fla-vored and distinguished wine, although it’s alsovery tannic. Shows the intensely concentrated fla-vors of mountain Napa Cabernet, flooding thepalate with blackberries and black currants, andthe finish is long and savory. Yet those tanninsinterfere with true palate enjoyment. Should ageeasily throughout the next 8–10 years. CellarSelection. —S.H.

92 Trinchero 2007 Chicken RanchVineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

(Rutherford); $35. A seriously good wine.Shows classic elegance in the dryness, fine tan-nins and restrained flavors of blackberries, blackcurrants and cedar. Feels really refined in themouth, with an herbaceousness that both groundsit and balances the fruit. Now–2013. —S.H.

91 Rutherford Ranch 2005 AbelaVineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

(Rutherford); $75. An enormously rich, com-pelling but young, Cabernet. Really impresses forits sour cherry and blackberry candy flavors, andthe sophisticated layering of smoky, vanilla-scented oak. Feels ultrarefined, but also quitetannic. Needs time. Better after 2013, withproper storage. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

90 Cobblestone 2005 CobblestoneVineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Napa Valley); $69. Clearly well-orig-ined, to judge from the fine structure andessential purity. But it’s a very tannic, closed wine,with a mouth-numbing astringency that accentu-ates the acidity. Even so, it’s so ripe in blackber-ries and currants it’s almost drinkable now, with agood decant. But you’re best off cellaring a good4–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.

90 Pali 2007 Highlands CabernetSauvignon (Napa Valley); $33. A

polished, soft Cabernet blend with Malbec, Caber-net Franc and Merlot. It’s particularly smooth inthe mouth, with lush tannins framing blackberry,currant and cedar flavors. Drinks rich and com-plex now and for a few more years. —S.H.

90 Trinchero 2007 Central Park WestVineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St.

Helena); $35. Nice and dry, with firm, hard tan-nins and rich flavors of blackberries, cherries anddark chocolate. The oak is pretty strong, offeringa coating of caramel. Shows a full-bodied, mascu-line Cabernet character that needs a good decantto aerate the tannins. Should age though 2013, atleast. —S.H.

90 Wild Oak by St. Francis 2007Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma

County); $38. Enormously rich and ripe, withwaves of blackberries, cherries, licorice, choco-late and cedary oak influences. Feels dry and lushin the mouth, but very tannic, giving a sandpa-pery astringency. You can drink it now with agood steak, but this Cab should develop though2013, at least. —S.H.

89 Kirkland Signature 2007 SignatureSeries Mountain Cuvee Cabernet

Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $18. Great pricefor this rich wine. It shows the density and con-centration of mountain fruit, and also the tannins,with bone-dry flavors of blackberries and currantsas well as hints of licorice and Canadian bacon.Good now with a few hours of decanting, andshould develop in the bottle through 2013 or so.Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

89 Magistrate 2006 Limited Produc-tion Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan-

der Valley); $29. A little extra time in thebottle has yielded a softly attractive Cabernetfilled with lush flavors. It has complex tiers ofraspberries, cherries and tobacco, with gentle tan-nins and a light, spicy touch of sandalwood. Prettyand polished now. —S.H.

89 Sanctuary 2006 Usibeli VineyardCabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford);

$30. Nothing subtle about this big, fruity, tannicwine. It’s bone dry and the tannins are soft anddusty, in the Rutherford way, but definitely there.They add an astringency to the black currant,mushu plum sauce and cedar flavors. Quite good,in the manner of previous vintages, but needstime. Best after 2011. —S.H.

88 Brookdale Vineyards 2007 Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $45.

Very rich and attractive, although the tannins arerather strong, and give the wine a mouth-coatingastringency. But the flavors are delicious, of ripeblackberries and black currants, edged with anise,

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chocolate and cedar. May be too soft to age, sodrink up. —S.H.

88 Rutherford Ranch 2005 EstateVineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

(Rutherford); $70. The oak is strong, giving atoasty, charcoal aroma and tannic texture, and theacids and grape tannins likewise contribute tomaking this wine rather aloof. Underneath aregood, complex cherry and raspberry flavors, withan earthy richness approaching chocolate. Seemsto have all the parts in place to age. Try around2012. —S.H.

88 Sojourn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon(Spring Mountain); $59. This is a

nice, likeable Cabernet made for drinking now. Itshows fancy Napa tannins and ripe, sweet flavorsof blackberries, red cherries, licorice and sandal-wood that are intense and concentrated in theway of mountain fruit. Lovely and easy, it willdevelop bottle complexity over the next 2–3years. —S.H.

87 Brandlin 2007 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Mount Veeder); $85. Even

for a Mount Veeder Cab, this one’s pretty tannic.It also seems very oaky, with lots of caramelized,charred wood. Somewhere underneath it all areblackberries and black currants that are sweetlyripe. Your best bet is to cellar it, but its future isuncertain given the initial irregularities. —S.H.

87 Concannon 2007 Mother VineReserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Liv-

ermore Valley); $30. The Mother Vine Caber-net is drinking soft and easy now, with gentletannins framing slightly herbaceous blackberryand black cherry flavors, touched with smoky oak.It feels like a wine you want to age, although thesoftness suggests it won’t for long. —S.H.

87 Domaine Georg Rafael Vineyards2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak

Knoll); $45. Young, tannic and acidic now, thisis a gritty wine not offering lots of pleasurebecause of the toughness, despite some very richblackberry, black currant, mineral and cedar fla-vors. You’ll want to cellar it for four or five years.Its future beyond that is a question mark. —S.H.

87 Domaine Georg Rafael Vineyards2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak

Knoll); $45. Dry and fruity, with big blackberry,black currant and cedar flavors, wrapped into sig-nificant tannins. It’s a vigorous, young Cabernet,

yet quite sharp in acidity. Could surprise downthe road, but it’s a gamble. —S.H.

87 Kenwood 2007 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Sonoma County); $18. A

good, serviceable Cabernet that has some fancyfeatures. It’s dry and rich in tannins, with subtleblackberry and black currant flavors groundedwith Provençal herbs. Drink now. —S.H.

87 Kirkland Signature 2007 SignatureSeries Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags

Leap District); $19. Softly lush, a nice, fruit-forward Cabernet to drink now. Shows well-ripened blackberry and black currant flavors,finished with a touch of smoky oak. Good pricefor a Stags Leap Cab. —S.H.

87 Lake Sonoma 2007 CabernetSauvignon (Alexander Valley);

$24. Currants, black and red, are the dominantflavors of this drily elegant wine. You’ll also findnotes of briary blackberries and dark, unsweet-ened baker’s chocolate. Best in the next few yearsbefore it loses fruity freshness. —S.H.

87 Perry Creek 2007 Altitude 2401Fair Play Farms Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (El Dorado); $35. An interesting andquite good Cabernet Sauvignon for drinking now.It’s soft and melted in the mouth, with rich, com-plex waves of blackberries, cherries, chocolateand anise, dusted with briary herbs and spices.—S.H.

87 Titus 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon(Napa Valley); $40. A good Cabernet,

with pleasantly ripe blackberry, cherry and cur-rant flavors, as well as a nice coating of sweet oak.Feels a little rugged in the mouth, with someedgy tannins. Give it a couple hours of decantingbefore service. —S.H.

87 Tor Kenward 2007 Mast VineyardCabernet Sauvignon (Yountville);

$75. Tannic and gritty now, with a hard mouth-feel, and it’s hard to imagine the wine will everresolve its issues. However, it’s clean and dry andintricately layered in blackberries and cedar. Giveit a good decant. —S.H.

87 Trinchero 2007 Mario’s VineyardCabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena);

$50. A bit soft and lacking in bright structure,which gives the complex blackberry, currant, darkchocolate, anise, herb and cedar flavors, good as

they are, a collapsed mouthfeel. The softnessseems likely to limit the wine’s ageability. —S.H.

87 Valley of the Moon 2007 CabernetSauvignon (Sonoma County); $20.

A good, dry Cabernet whose fruit flavors are bal-anced with rich tannins. Offers upfront flavors ofblackberries, cherries, raspberries and cocoa.Good price, considering the elegance —S.H.

86 C. Beck 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon(Napa Valley); $48. A bit jammy and

simple, with fresh, primary flavors of blackber-ries and cherries that are almost sweet. Oak addscreamy, smoky notes. Drink now. —S.H.

86 Ehret 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon(Knights Valley); $34. A bit thin on

the blackberry fruit, and showing some veggienotes. Also pretty tannic. Might have seen its bet-ter days a year or so ago. —S.H.

86 Hess 2007 Allomi Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $28.

Here’s a gutsy, fruity Cabernet. It fills the mouthwith juicy raspberry, cherry and blackberry fla-vors and hints of chocolate. Nothing subtle, just adry, rich red wine for drinking now. —S.H.

86 J. Rickards 2007 Five Sisters BlendCabernet Sauvignon (Alexander

Valley); $34. Despite some richly extractedblackberry and black currant flavors, this wine’stannins and acids are out of whack. They give thewine a sharp, hard mouthfeel, and it actuallyturns bitter instead of spicy on the finish. Readynow. —S.H.

86 Rutherford Ranch 2005 FranklinVineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

(Rutherford); $75. Way too oaky. Like drinkingtoothpicks, with its charred, wood flavors and oaktannins. The wine is dry and the underlyingblackberry and cherry sour candy fruit is just fine,but the oak dominance makes you wonder if thewine will ever age. —S.H.

86 Sojourn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon(Howell Mountain); $65. From a

winery whose Cabernets have struggled over theyears comes this release from Napa’s HowellMountain. It’s dry and tannic and very fruity inblackberries and black currants, but not particu-larly subtle right now. Feels somewhat commondespite its pedigreed appellation. Try the cellar.—S.H.

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86 Swanson 2006 Alexis CabernetSauvignon (Oakville); $75. A bit

overripe, with a raisiny taste behind the blackcurrants, and also quite dry and tannic, with ahard, mouth-locking, dusty astringency. The com-bination definitely strikes you as unbalanced, andnot likely to age out. —S.H.

85 Beaver Creek 2007 CabernetSauvignon (Rutherford); $39. Made

in a leaner, drier style than many, this Cabernet’sblackberry and cherry flavors have an edge ofmint and tobacco. Turns quite tart on the finish.Drink now. —S.H.

85 Beaver Creek 2007 Horne RanchC a b e r n e t S a u v i g n o n ( L a k e

County); $39. Good blackberry, black currant,cocoa and cedar flavors in this Cab, and it’s nicelydry, with firm, finely ground tannins. Turns rathersharp on the finish, and that tartness may nevergo away. —S.H.

85 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2007 Mad-den Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon

(Livermore Valley); $24. Dry, sharp and gritty,lacking smoothness and balance in the mouth.Give it a richer texture, and the blackberry andcurrant flavors would be just fine, even ageable.—S.H.

85 Niner 2007 Bootjack Ranch Caber-net Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $28.

A bit sharp and minty, with some green tannicastringency accompanying the riper fruit flavorsof blackberries and cherries. It’s a good, honestwine whose texture is somewhat off. —S.H.

85 Paoletti 2007 Bella Novello Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $25.

Somewhat raisiny and bitter. Tastes like presswine, with harsh, grapeskin tannins that make itfeel astringently dry. Pretty good flavors, though,of blackberries and currants. Drink up. —S.H.

85 Smith & Hook 2007 CabernetSauvignon (Central Coast); $30.

Good and dry, with some fine blackberry andblack currant flavors. But it’s pretty hard in acidityand tannins, and cellaring probably won’t helpresolve those issues. Drink now. —S.H.

84 Concannon 2007 ConservancyCabernet Sauvignon (Livermore

Valley); $14. Soft and simple, with pleasantblackberry, currant and oak flavors that finish dry

and quick. An everyday Cabernet whose brisktannins suggest rich barbecue. —S.H.

84 Fetzer 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon(California); $9. Uncomplicated and

tasty, this is a nice Cabernet for everyday pur-poses. It’s dry and silky, with pleasant cherry,blackberry, mocha and cedar flavors. —S.H.

84 Huge Bear 2007 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Sonoma County); $55. Not

much going on with this tannic wine, especially atthis price. It’s astringent in the mouth, and toosoftly sweet, with modest blackberry and oak fla-vors. —S.H.

84 Pennywise 2008 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (California); $12. This is the

kind of Cabernet you get served at a big party. It’sfine for everyday purposes, filled with simple,jammy raspberry, cherry and sweet oak flavors.—S.H.

84 Three Saints 2006 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Santa Ynez Valley); $22.

Decent blackberry and black currant flavors,touched with cedar, in this dry wine. It’s a littletoo acidic and green, though, and seems over-priced for what you get. —S.H.

84 Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Califor-

nia); $8. A little thin in flavor, but honest androbust, with thick tannins framing blackberries,cherries, currants and herbs. A very good pricefor a Cab this easy to drink. Best Buy. —S.H.

83 Beauregard 2005 BeauregardRanch Vineyard Estate Grown

Cabernet Sauvignon (Ben LomondMountain); $55. Dry, tannic and thin. What-ever fruit there used to be has dropped out, leav-ing behind alcohol and the ghost of blackcurrants. —S.H.

82 Ca’ Momi 2007 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley); $18. Unbal-

anced, with overripe raisiny, pruny flavors next toless than ripe harsh tannins. Although the wine isdry, it feels awkwardly sharp and tired. —S.H.

82 Dane Cellars 2007 Jackknife Cor-ner Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma

Valley); $32. It’s for you, if you like your Cabssoft, sweet in jellied fruit and hot in alcohol.

Tastes like a melted cherry pie, with the sugary,smoky crust. —S.H.

82 Dane Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Sonoma Valley); $24. A little

too sweet for comfort, with jellied raspberry andcherry flavors edged with the vanilla and carameltastes from toasted oak barrels. Grows more sug-ary as it sits in the glass. —S.H.

82 Glen El len 2008 Proprietor’sReserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal-

ifornia); $10. Pretty harsh, with unripe, greentannins and tart pepper and blackberry flavors.The price is pretty good, at least. —S.H.

82 Mutt Lynch 2007 Chateau d’OgCabernet Sauvignon (Central

Coast); $14. Bone dry and tannic, with a sourbite of acidity. It’s a pretty fierce Cab, despitesome decent blackberry flavors. —S.H.

82 Napa Family Vineyards 2007Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

(Napa Valley); $10. Hard to like this dry, bitterwine. It’s cutting and tannic in the mouth, withvery modest blackberry fruit. —S.H.

82 Robert Mondavi 2008 PrivateSelection Cabernet Sauvignon

(California); $11. Gets the Cabernet job donewith sweetish blackberry and black currant fla-vors, tinged with oak-like notes. But it’s a funda-mentally uninteresting wine, even at this price.—S.H.

CABERNET FRANC

87 Lang & Reed 2008 Cabernet Franc(North Coast); $22. This is a sleek,

streamlined and very dry red wine. It’s not bigand rich, but it is elegantly crafted, with no flawsto mar the acidity and finely ground tannins. Theflavors, of cherries, anise and dried herbs, arecomplex. —S.H.

87 Trinchero 2007 Cabernet Franc(Napa Valley); $50. A good wine, dry

and tannic, but a little one-dimensional in rich-ness. Shows pretty flavors of red and black cher-ries, with a hint of mint and cocoa. Could belusher and offer more layers. Call it elegant ratherthan opulent. Drink now. —S.H.

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84 Carr 2007 Cabernet Franc (SantaYnez Valley); $30. A hot, rather brutal

wine. High alcohol combines with high, hard tan-nins to make for a real textural challenge, despiteinteresting cherry, licorice and Canadian baconflavors. Drink now. —S.H.

83 Buttonwood Farm 2007 EstateGrown Cabernet Franc (Santa

Ynez Valley); $22. Not a bad wine, but greenand minty-sweet, like a raspberry sour candylozenge. The grapes and tannins just didn’t getripe enough. —S.H.

MERLOT

92 Trinchero 2007 Vista MontoneVineyard Daybreak Block Merlot

(Napa Valley); $35. A lovely Merlot, dry andoaky and earthy, with a rich vein of cherries, vio-lets, red licorice and spicy bacon. Defines ele-gance, with a gentle scour of tannins. One of thedrier, classier Merlots out there. Great with ajuicy steak. —S.H.

91 Trinchero 2007 Chicken RanchVineyard Merlot (Rutherford);

$35. Dry and tannic, a Merlot that’s the oppositeof softly luxurious. But it’s extremely elegant withits cherry, red currant and bitter cherryskin fla-vors, and shows true complexity throughout. Justcries out for a fine steak, in a brown butter, softcheese and garlic sauce. —S.H.

89 Nickel & Nickel 2007 Harris Vine-yard Merlot (Oakville); $50. Rasp-

ingly dry and fierce in tannins, this Merlot is quitedifferent from other Bordeaux-style red winesfrom Oakville that are ripe and lush. Doesn’toffer much reward now due to the astringency,but has a solid core of blackberries. Hard to knowif the fruit will outlast the tannins. —S.H.

89 Nickel & Nickel 2007 Suscol RanchMerlot (Napa Valley); $55. Made in

the Nickel & Nickel style, which is very dry andconsiderably more tannic than its peers in NapaValley, this Merlot needs some time in the cellarto shed its astringency and let the cherries blos-som. The vineyard is in a cooler, southerly part ofthe valley. —S.H.

87 St. Francis 2007 Merlot (SonomaCounty); $22. Pretty dry and tannic,

but redeemed by good, ripe blackberry, black

cherry and smoky cedar flavors. Shows some realflair and richness. Drink now. —S.H.

86 Concannon 2007 Reserve Merlot(Livermore Valley); $25. A bit coarse

in the mouth, with a sandpapery tartness throughthe finish. On the plus side, the wine is fully dryand well-flavored, with black cherries, currants,spicy teriaki beef and cedar. Drink now. —S.H.

86 Concannon 2007 ConservancyMerlot (Livermore Valley); $14.

Peppery and sandpapery, almost like Zinfandel,with briary blackberry flavors. Not especiallycomplicated, but it’s dry and clean, and a decentfull-bodied red for ordinary occasions. —S.H.

86 Marilyn 2008 Merlot (Napa Val-ley); $29. A rather ordinary Merlot, dry

and rugged, with jammy-fruity flavors of cherries,herbs and oak. Blended with Beckstoffer Caber-net Sauvignon, which gives it needed body andpower. —S.H.

86 Niner 2007 Bootjack Ranch Merlot(Paso Robles); $24. Good, deeply

extracted flavors in this darkly soft wine, withblackberries, plums and spicy, chocolaty chai tea.It’s nicely dry. The tannins are a little off, withsome ragged, green edges that won’t age away, sodrink now. —S.H.

86 Swanson 2006 Merlot (Oakville);$36. A good red wine, although it shows

some of the problems that Merlot experiences.Maybe it was the vintage, but the wine is too dryfor what little fruit you get. It leaves a brittleastringency behind the cherry and currant flavors.—S.H.

85 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2007 PicazoVineyard Merlot (Livermore Val-

ley); $30. Too sharp and aggressive in tart acid-ity, which emphasizes the tannins, making it feeloverly astringent. Not a bad wine, with pleasantcherry and blackberry flavors, but it sure is toughin the mouth. —S.H.

84 Gnarly Head 2008 Merlot (Califor-nia); $11. Here’s a good everyday Mer-

lot marked by rich fruit and a smooth mouthfeel.Thoroughly dry, it brims with black raspberries,cherries and chocolate-covered raisins. —S.H.

84 Jekel 2007 Merlot (Arroyo Seco);$15. Firm, dry tannins mark this Mer-

lot, and it has nice mouthwatering acidity. Butit’s a little unripe, with some green, herbaceousflavors accompanying the cherries and spicyplums. —S.H.

84 Mutt Lynch 2007 Merlot Over andPlay Dead Merlot (Central Coast);

$14. A simple, rustic wine, dry and tannic, withearthy flavors of tobacco, blackberries and herbs.Considerable acidity gives it a real bite. —S.H.

84 Pennywise 2008 Merlot (Califor-nia); $12. Sweet raspberry jam, herb,

green pea and vanilla caramel flavors mark thissoft, simple Merlot. It’s an easy sipper with aclean, spicy finish. —S.H.

83 Concannon 2007 Selected Vine-yards Merlot (Central Coast); $10.

Simple and direct in cherry, blackberry and san-dalwood flavors, this Merlot is for everyday drink-ing at a fair price. It has a nice, silky texture.—S.H.

82 Praxis 2007 Merlot (AlexanderValley); $19. A tough, green wine, with

minty sharp acidity and not much fruit, althoughyou’ll find some modest cherry flavor. —S.H.

81 Buttonwood Farm 2007 EstateGrown Merlot (Santa Ynez Val-

ley); $22. Nowhere near ripe, with asparagusand boiled green bean aromas and flavors. Simplylacks richness of fruit. —S.H.

81 Glen El len 2007 Proprietor’sReserve Merlot (California); $10.

Pretty harsh, with green tannins and minty flavors,relieved by some modest cherry notes. —S.H.

MERITAGE

91 Trinchero 2007 Meritage (NapaValley); $50. Tough and gritty in tan-

nins, with a mouthfeel like you’re chewing onsandpaper. Yet this Bordeaux blend is very rich infruit, with a solid core of blackberries, black cur-rants, anise and violets, sweetened with toast oak.Decant this classy Bordeaux Blend for a fewhours before serving. —S.H.

88 St. Francis 2007 Anthem Meritage(Sonoma Valley); $60. Very tannic

and gritty now. Shuts the fruit down with a dry,sandpapery astringency. But what great fruit. It’s

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rich in blackberries, black cherries, currants,licorice and mocha, and is bone dry. Could andshould age, but there’s a certain sharpness thatmakes you wonder. —S.H.

84 Arrow Creek 2008 Coastal SeriesMeritage (California); $18. A pretty

good wine, with blackberry, cherry and currantflavors, and some smoky oak. Nice and dry, withsmooth tannins, it’s a decent sipper. —S.H.

84 Robert Mondavi 2008 PrivateSelection Meritage (California);

$11. Pretty good price for an everyday Caber-net-based wine with some nice fruity flavors.Shows blackberries, black cherries and black cur-rants, and is dry and spicy. —S.H.

83 Stuart Cellars 2006 Tatria Vintner’sLimited Reserve Meritage (Temec-

ula Valley); $35. Bone dry, tough and leathery,with a bitter, raisiny edge to the blackberries andcherries. Drink now. —S.H.

82 Stuart Cellars 2006 Long ValleyRed Limited Estate Reserve Mer-

itage (Temecula Valley); $50. A tough, com-mon wine, gritty in tannins, with superripeblackberry flavors that veer into bitter raisinskinsand dark, unsweetened baker’s chocolate. Notgoing anywhere. —S.H.

RED BLENDS

94 Lang & Reed 2005 Right Bank(Napa Valley); $60. This is a big, elab-

orate wine, the kind that feels lush and impor-tant in the mouth, and it fills a vital niche in theNapa lineup. Based on Cabernet Franc, which isthe winery’s specialty, it’s lighter and more ele-gant than a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and thefruit veers toward cherries, not black currants. It’sextraordinarily rich, and grows more interestingas it warms in the glass. Terrific with a fine grilledsteak. Pricey, but unique and worth it for a specialoccasion. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

90 Galante 2007 Grand Champion(Carmel Valley); $75. Kudos to

Galante for crafting this distinctive blend of Mal-bec, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s adark, tannic, utterly dry wine that feels stylish inthe mouth despite its considerable astringency.Maybe it’s the depth of blackberry, currant,licorice, bacon, Mexican molé and sandalwood

flavors that last so deep and long. A bit too softfor the cellar, but delicious now with barbecue.—S.H.

89 Eberle 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Paso Robles); $29. A lovely

wine, charming and complex. Shows how wellthis blend works for Eberle in Paso Robles, espe-cially in a good vintage. Soft and lush, the wine isrich in blackberries and spices. Drinks well now,and should hold for some years. —S.H.

89 Dominus 2007 Napanook (NapaValley); $45. This is a big, full-bodied

wine, but it’s rather heavy now. Brings a wave ofblackberries, black currants and chocolate intothe mouth, and then sort of sinks down into aninertia of tannins. It’s not ready to drink now, butit does have a fancy overall balance, including theoak appliqué. Give it a good 4–5 years in the cel-lar, but it’s probably not for the long haul. CellarSelection. —S.H.

88 Carlotta 2008 Aran & David’s Red(California); $20. This is a firmly tan-

nic, full-bodied wine whose dark berry and stonefruit flavors are sprinkled with lots of black pep-per. A blend of Sangiovese, Syrah and PetiteSirah, it’s completely dry, with complex black-berry, black currant and leather flavors, and a hintof superripe raisins. Drink now. —S.H.

88 Paoletti 2007 Non Plus Ultra (NapaValley); $65. This is a very big, extract-

edly fruity Bordeaux blend. Right now, it’s tannicand sharp and dry, but it has explosive blackberry,black currant and dark chocolate flavors. Rathertoo angular and awkward for complete enjoyment,but cellar for 4–6 years and try again. —S.H.

87 Castel lo di Amorosa 2007 I lBarone (Napa Valley); $75. Doesn’t

say so on the label, but it’s Cabernet Sauvignon.However it’s utterly unlike most other Napa Cabsin the dryness and tartness. Almost like a Chianti,with bone-dry cherry, red currant and tobaccoflavors, scoured with tannins, that finish with acut of acidity. —S.H.

87 Castello di Amorosa 2007 LaCastellana (Napa Valley); $65. This

blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and San-giovese is much drier, more acidic and earthierthan many other Napa reds. Therein lies itsstrengh and its weakness. It’s a firm wine withsuggestions of cherries and tobacco that will sat-

isfy folks who complain about fruit bombs. But it’salso pretty tart. Drink now with rich Italian-inspired fare. —S.H.

87 Novy Cellars 2008 Four Mile Creek(North Coast); $9. Hooray for Novy

for producing this fine, inexpensive wine and forputting their name proudly on it, instead of hid-ing behind a second label. It’s dry and crisp andtotally drinkable, with pleasant berry, cherry andspice flavors. Best Buy. —S.H.

87 Venge 2008 Scout’s Honor (NapaValley); $38. Made in a fruit-forward

way, with jammy blackberry, cherry and currantflavors that finish in a swirl of chocolate andspices. It’s a heartily tannic wine for drinking now.Good with slow-cooked meat stews and barbe-cue. Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Charbono and Syrah.—S.H.

86 Babcock 2008 Fathom (Santa YnezValley); $50. A bit unripe, with a slight

vegetal intrusion into the blackberries and cher-ries. Teeter-totters just on the edge of ripeness,but falls short. Otherwise, the tannins are pretty,and the oak is deftly applied. —S.H.

86 Paoletti 2008 Piccolo Cru (Calis-toga); $22. Somewhat rugged and

astringent now, with a bite of acidity, but it’s anenormously rich wine, with black currant andchocolate flavors. Best now with grilled meats. ABordeaux blend based on Malbec. —S.H.

86 Vina Robles 2008 Red4 Huerhuero(Paso Robles); $16. Soft and jammy,

with raspberry and red licorice flavors and astreak of brambles, nettles and peppery spices.It’s a good, dry wine, but would benefit fromgreater structure. A Syrah-based Rhône-styleblend. —S.H.

85 Yorkville Cellars 2007 Hi-Rollr(Mendocino County); $18. A good,

rather rugged wine. It’s edgy in tannins and some-what overripe, with raisin, plum, blackberry, cof-fee and spice flavors. But it’s nicely dry. Zinfandel,Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and PetitVerdot. —S.H.

84 Alienor 2005 Red Wine (LakeCounty); $65. Good and dry, but awk-

ward, with slightly vegetal flavors sticking throughriper ones of blackberries and black currants. Theacid-tannin relationship also is unbalanced.

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Redeems itself on the finish, with a flourish ofchocolate. —S.H.

84 St. Francis 2007 Claret (SonomaCounty); $22. A good, sound red wine,

made from the five Bordeaux varieties. It’s dryand gently tannic, with herb, tobacco and blackcherry flavors. —S.H.

84 St. Francis 2007 Cuvée Lago (Russ-ian River Valley); $40. A blend of

Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, this wine is softand tannic, with a puckery mouthfeel. The cherry-berry flavors are jammy. Ready now. —S.H.

83 Minassian-Young 2007 Black St.Peter (Paso Robles); $23. Soft and

melted in fruit, with high alcohol that gives it aburn, this Zinfandel and Mourvèdre-based blendhas raspberry, cola and spice flavors. Drink nowwith spicy burgers, ribs, roast pork. —S.H.

83 Minassian-Young 2007 GMSV(Paso Robles); $22. A basic red Rhône

blend, with a dash of Viognier for acidic bright-ness. Shows simple, thin flavors of raspberriesand cherries, with a dash of sweet oak. —S.H.

83 Thacher 2007 Controlled Chaos(Paso Robles); $33. Soft and slightly

sweet, this wine tastes like raspberry and cherrysyrup with a dash of melted milk chocolate. It’salso hot, with 15.7% of alcohol. Zinfandel,Mourvèdre and Grenache. —S.H.

82 Big House 2008 Red (California);$10. Soft and simple, with jammy berry-

cherry flavors and some bitterness throughout.—S.H.

82 Big House NV Red (California);$22. The price is right, but the wine is a

little vegetal despite some cherry and currant fla-vors. Will do in a pinch, if your guests aren’t par-ticular. —S.H.

82 Big House 2007 The Lineup GSM(Central Coast); $12. Harsh in acids,

simple and fruity sweet in jammy raspberries. Ablend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. —S.H.

82 Francis Ford Coppola 2008 Pre-sents Rosso (Lodi); $11. Harsh and

jagged. Might be the sort of vino Nonno drank 80years ago, but it’s pretty out of touch with what

consumers want today. Dry and tannic, it’s thinand raisiny and common. —S.H.

80 Buttonwood Farm 2007 Hawk Red(Santa Ynez Valley); $14. So vegetal,

it’s barely drinkable. Cabernets Sauvignon andFranc. —S.H.

ZINFANDEL

93 Dutcher Crossing 2008 Bernier-Sibary Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry

Creek Valley); $39. Quite a beautiful Zinfan-del. It takes Dry Creek’s briary fruit and lifts it,although the wine retains a peppery, bramblycharacter. Blended with Petite Sirah, Carignaneand Mataro (Mourvèdre), it’s rich in wild rasp-berry, cherry, sweet cured tobacco, anise and san-dalwood flavors, with a squeeze of orangeessence. —S.H.

93 Magistrate 2007 Limited Produc-tion Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley);

$25. Great Zinfandel, showing Dry Creek Valleyat its best. The wine is dry and super-spicy, withcomplex, succulent wild berry, currant, licorice,bacon and pepper flavors, and just a touch ofsuperripe raisins on the finish. Really notable forthe quality of its fine tannins. Editors’ Choice.—S.H.

91 Side Job 2008 C5 Stefani VineyardZinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $25.

This very dry wine shows the spicy, briary flavorsof Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. The flavors are ofwild black and red berries, currants, brambly net-tles, pepper, Chinese 5 spice, espresso and a hintof earthy dark chocolate. Quite a fine, complexdrink that wants smoky, charred meats, like bar-becued ribs, pork, or a rich grilled steak. —S.H.

90 Dane Cellars 2007 Zinfandel(Sonoma Valley); $26. This is a very

nice, restaurant-style Zin, meaning it’s dry,smoothly tannic and elegantly balanced, not oneof those sweet fruit bombs. It has complex fla-vors of wild berries, currants, tobacco and lots ofpeppery spices. —S.H.

90 Mounts 2007 Estate Grown Zin-fandel (Dry Creek Valley); $20. A

very good wine, dry and super-spicy, with thebrambly fruit you want in a Dry Creek Zin. Itshows robust, complex flavors of cherries and

raspberries along with an exotic coating of sandal-wood. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

90 Side Job 2008 Zinfandel (SonomaCounty); $15. One sip is all it takes to

love this wine, if you’re a Zinfandel fan. It’s bonedry, silky in texture and spicy, with brambly, briaryflavors of wild forest berries, red currants,tobacco and beef jerky. Feels really rich andsavory, right through the long, peppery finish.And look at that price. Best Buy. —S.H.

89 Clif Family 2007 Gary’s Improv Zin-fandel (Napa Valley); $35. Intricate

flavors of blackberries, cherries, raspberries andhoney-nut granola mark this deliciously dry wine,spiced with exotic cinnamon, star anise and pep-per. It’s very good, although it could have a firmerstructure. Ready now. —S.H.

88 Perry Creek 2007 Zinman Zinfan-del (El Dorado); $14. A lovely Zinfan-

del, soft and dry, with luscious cherry, raspberryand sandalwood flavors, dusted with pepper andcocoa. Easy to drink and versatile with everythingfrom pizza to a grilled steak. Editors’ Choice.—S.H.

87 Fiddletown Cellars 2008 Old VineZinfandel (Fiddletown); $18. A

delightfully spicy, rich Zinfandel, packed withfruity flavors ranging from blackberries and colathrough chocolate to raisins. The alcohol is high,and the wine is a bit hot, but that’s part of its per-sonality. —S.H.

87 Perry Creek 2007 Altitude 2401Fair Play Farms Zinfandel (El

Dorado); $25. Delicious in briary blackberryjam, cherry pie, currant, milk chocolate, blackpepper and anise flavors, with a touch of sweetoak, and the finish is totally dry. It’s a little too softin structure, but fine if you’re in the mood forZinfandel. —S.H.

86 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2007 DeMayo Zinfandel (Livermore Val-

ley); $30. Lots of briary wild blackberry, cherryand exotic spice flavors in this Zin, with cola,tobacco and mushu plum sauce complexities, andthe finish is dry. Compromised by a hit of sharpacidity, but rich barbecue will help. —S.H.

86 The Federalist 2007 Estate GrownZinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $25.

A very fruity Zinfandel, rewarding in blackberry,

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blueberry tart and currant flavors, accented withdark chocolate, anise and pepper. Too soft, andwould benefit from greater crispness, but it’s anice Zin now. —S.H.

85 Stuart Cellars 2007 Lopez RanchVintners Special Select Reserve

Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley); $30. This isa very dry and rather bitter wine, with a raisinskintoughness. It’s not very generous in fruit, but isnuanced in its own way. Needs rich barbecue totease out the blackberries and chocolate. —S.H.

84 Goats Trail 2009 Zinfandel (Cali-fornia); $11. Jammy and simple, with

ripe cherry, blackberry and pepper flavors. Noth-ing terribly complex, but an easy everyday Zin ata decent price. —S.H.

84 J. Rickards 2006 Voigt Family Vine-yard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley);

$24. Shows some ultraripe Porty flavors and bit-terness that come from the tannins of raisin skins.That accentuates the dryness, and compromiseswhat otherwise is a pleasant Dry Creek ValleyZinfandel. —S.H.

84 Mutt Lynch 2007 Canis Major Per-otti Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek

Valley); $25. Basically a high-alcohol fruitbomb, with jammy flavors of raspberries andcherries. The heat from 15.5% alcohol gives it achili pepper burn. Defines that style, for thosewho like it. —S.H.

84 Scott Harvey 2007 MountainSelection Zinfandel (Amador

County); $20. Robust, but a little awkward.Shows semi-sweet, jammy raspberry and cherryflavors with big tannins and acidity. Almost like asimple Port. Ready now. —S.H.

84 Stuart Cellars 2006 Lopez RanchVintners Special Select Reserve

Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley); $30. Very,very dry, but bitter in raisinskin flavors and tan-nins, with a baked currant finish. Not a bad wine,but an acquired taste. Drink now. —S.H.

83 Fiddletown Cellars 2008 Bent BowZinfandel (Amador County); $24.

Dry and spicy, with some green peppercorn andvegetal aromas and flavors that interfere withenjoyment. A few modest blackberry notes rescueit. —S.H.

83 Glen El len 2007 Proprietor’sReserve Old Vine Zinfandel (Cali-

fornia); $10. Weedy and vegetal despite somedecent raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. Okayfor a big party where nobody’s fussy. Best Buy.—S.H.

83 J. Rickards 2006 Ancestor Selec-tions Vineyard Zinfandel (Alexan-

der Valley); $22. A sound, fruity, if rusticZinfandel. It’s soft and slightly sweet, with can-died blackberry, raspberry, Dr. Pepper, licoriceand spice flavors, and a coating of caramelizedoak. —S.H.

83 Lava Cap 2007 Spring House Zin-fandel (El Dorado); $22. Simple and

jammy, this Zin shows fruity flavors of raspber-ries, cherries and oranges. It’s a little sugarysweet. —S.H.

83 Lava Cap 2007 Reserve Zinfandel(El Dorado); $20. Good, rich flavors

in this Zin, with raspberry and cherry jam andchocolaty mocha, dusted with cinnamon. But it’spretty simple, like a Starbucks drink, and too soft.—S.H.

83 Thacher 2007 Triumverate ReserveZinfandel (Paso Robles); $36. Good

berry, cherry, chocolate, tobacco and spice flavorsin this Zinfandel, but it’s too soft and flat in struc-ture. It’s also frankly hot, with 15.7% alcohol, andhas a Porty finish. —S.H.

82 Ca’ Momi 2007 Zinfandel (NapaValley); $15. Simple and jammy, with

sweet flavors of cherries, currants, licorice andspices. —S.H.

82 Gia Domella 2007 E. PassalacquaHeritage Estate Zinfandel (Russian

River Valley); $26. Burning hot in alcohol, thisZin is totally dry. It has peppery flavors of shriv-eled grapes and currants, with a bitter mouthfeel.—S.H.

82 Hunt Cellars 2004 Destiny Vine-yards Reserve Zinfandel (Paso

Robles); $75. Soft and mushy in structure, withsweet, pie-filling flavors of berries that have abaked fruit edge, this Zin tastes like it was a vic-tim of hot overripeness. —S.H.

82 Mutt Lynch 2007 Portrait of aMutt Zinfandel (Central Coast);

$14. Tastes dry, bitter and tannic, like press wine,with green, stemmy flavors of berries and greenpeppercorns. Drink now. —S.H.

82 Thacher 2007 Will’s Hills Zinfandel(Paso Robles); $40. There’s a rustic

feeling in the mouthfeel of this dry Zinfandel. Ithas disagreeably hard, astringent tannins, andthere’s also a bitterness that seems to come fromshriveled grape skins. —S.H.

81 Beaver Creek 2007 Zinfandel (LakeCounty); $29. Soft, simple and sweet,

with jellied raspberry, cherry and spice flavors.Tastes like an inferior dessert wine. —S.H.

81 Dancing Bull 2008 WinemakersReserve Zinfandel (California);

$12. Frankly sweet, with candied raspberry andcherry flavors. Feels soft and cloying. —S.H.

81 Gia Domella 2007 Reserve Zinfan-del (Russian River Valley); $65.

Feels hot and Porty in the mouth, although it’s verydry, with bitter raisinskin and shriveled cherry fla-vors. The alcohol approaches 16%. —S.H.

81 Minassian-Young 2008 Estate Zin-fandel (Paso Robles); $24. Tastes

unevenly ripened, with blackberry and vegetalflavors side by side, and seems to have residualsugar. The sweetness is compounded with highalcohol. —S.H.

SYRAH

93 Novy Cellars 2007 Syrah (SantaLucia Highlands); $27. A tremendous

Syrah that shows how the Highlands aren’t justfor Pinot Noir. Dry and peppery, it has big tan-nins and crisp acidity framing blackberry, blackcurrant, blueberry and dark, unsweetened choco-late flavors. Impresses for richness, complexityand power. Now–2013. —S.H.

93 Novy Cellars 2007 Simpson Vine-yard Syrah (Dry Creek Valley);

$29. Beautiful Syrah, dry, tannic and elegant,with a most pleasurable mouthfeel. Feels full-bodied and chewy, with blackberry, black currant,leather and tobacco flavors, finished in a swirl ofIndian spices. Novy is really at the top of theirSyrah game. —S.H.

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92 Novy Cellars 2007 Amber RidgeVineyard Syrah (Russian River Val-

ley); $29. Impresses for its dryness, big tanninsand acids, and for the complexity of flavor. Offersdelicious waves of blackberry tart and blueberrymuffin, sprinkled with cocoa and cinnamon and adrizzle of cassis. Really a beautiful Syrah, classyand elegant. Drinks well now and through 2012.—S.H.

92 Novy Cellars 2007 Judge FamilyVineyard Syrah (Bennett Valley);

$29. Very fine, very rich and very dry, this is aSyrah you can pull out for your best steaks. It hasa peppery saltiness that will pair brilliantly withcharred beef. Richness comes via ripe blackber-ries and cherries, as well as from sweet, smokyoak. Terrific now and through 2013. —S.H.

90 Babcock 2009 Identity Crisis Syrah(Santa Barbara County); $15. Iden-

tity crisis indeed. The label says Syrah, but thewine is white. Actually, golden copper in color.It’s perfectly dry and wonderfully crisp, with com-plex waves of sour citrus fruit candy, spice andmineral flavors. Fascinating and elusive, it’s com-pelling. Best Buy. —S.H.

90 Miraflores 2007 Méthode Anci-enne Syrah (El Dorado); $25. This is

a wonderfully soft, complex Syrah. Completelydry, it offers waves of raspberries, red currants,mocha, licorice, sandalwood and dusty Indianspices that linger on through a long finish. A veryfine, medium- to full-bodied red wine for drink-ing now. —S.H.

90 Perry Creek 2007 Altitude 2401Dark Forest Syrah (El Dorado); $28.

A distinctive Syrah that shows great concentrationin the focused blackberry, sweet leather, darkchocolate, mineral and black pepper flavors.Beyond the power, the wine is bone dry, soft inacidity and quite tannic. The end result is impres-sive, and ready to drink now. —S.H.

89 Kendric 2007 Syrah (ShenandoahValley (CA)); $21. A rich, dry wine,

soft and velvety in tannins. It feels satisfying allthe way through. Not super-big in fruit, butnuanced, offering layers of blackberries, currants,dark chocolate, herbs, leather and pepper. One ofthe finer Syrahs to come out of the SierraFoothills this year. Ready now. —S.H.

88 Ehret 2007 Syrah (Knights Valley);$28. Quite a good Syrah, although it’s a

little too soft, so open it now because it won’t holdfor too long. It’s dry and silky smooth in themouth, with rich, ripe blackberry, blueberry,chocolate, bacon and pepper flavors. —S.H.

88 Mounts 2007 Estate Grown Syrah(Dry Creek Valley); $28. If you think

you don’t like Syrah, try this one. It’s so pretty, soeasy to drink for its soft lushness, but is also quitecomplex. Offers gentle waves of raspberries,cherries, licorice, Canadian bacon and pepperthat finish bone dry and spicy. —S.H.

87 Carr 2007 Morehouse VineyardSyrah (Santa Ynez Valley); $50.

Very tough and tannic now, and dry too, so thatthe ultimate impact is disagreeably harsh. That,despite a solid core of blackberries, black cur-rants, violets, bacon and minerals. The question isone of ageability. The answer is that it’s a gamble,as the wine, like the stock market, could go eitherway. —S.H.

87 Fess Parker 2007 Rodney’s Vine-y a rd S y r a h ( S a n t a B a r b a r a

County); $45. Black pepper is the star of thisbone-dry, full-bodied young wine, in both thearoma and the flavor. Below that are bold notes ofblack currants, plums and leather. The tanninsare hard, giving it a mouth-stinging astringency.Your best bet is to cellar it for 3–4 years, but it’ssomewhat risky. —S.H.

87 Morse 2007 Estate Syrah (AmadorCounty); $24. A nice Syrah, rich and

soft in the mouth, that shows plenty of ripe fruitflavor without being cloying. You’ll find blackber-ries, bacon and black pepper. —S.H.

87 Niner 2006 Bootjack Ranch Syrah(Paso Robles); $20. A good wine, dry

and firm in tannins, although it’s a bit soft andlacking in structure. The flavors are just fine, ofbriary blackberry jam, sprinkled with crushedblack pepper. Drink now. —S.H.

86 Wild Oak by St. Francis 2007Syrah (Sonoma County); $38. This

is a jammy wine with raspberry and currant fla-vors, accented with pepper, anise and cocoa, witha coating of sweet oak. It’s fundamentally dry, anda little simple in structure. Good now with grilledsteak and chimichurri sauce. —S.H.

85 Concannon 2007 Reserve Syrah(Livermore Valley); $25. A tough,

gritty wine, marked by strongly astringent tan-nins. Underneath are fine blackberry, cherry, cur-rant, mineral, floral and pepper flavors with hintsof chocolate and cassis. But the mouthfeel is sotannic it detracts from the pleasure, nor does thewine seem ageable. —S.H.

85 P e r r y C re e k 2 0 0 7 S y r a h ( E lDorado); $17. Good and dry, with

pleasant blackberry flavors and lots of pepperyspices. The texture is a bit uneven, though, withclunky tannins and some green notes. Drink now.—S.H.

84 Mutt Lynch 2006 Canis Major UntiVineyard Syrah (Dry Creek Valley);

$25. Rich in blackberry, black currant and pep-per flavors, and completely dry, but kind of rusticand awkwardly hot in the mouth. There’s a sharpedge of green tannins. Doesn’t showcase the fruitof this fine vineyard as well as it should. —S.H.

82 Carmel 2007 S&S Syrah (MontereyCounty); $35. Vegetal, with a green

bell pepper aroma and taste. What fruit there isveers toward currants, and the mouthfeel is soft.—S.H.

82 Robert Mondavi 2008 PrivateSelection Syrah (California); $11.

There’s a harsh edge of acidic, green sharpness tothis wine. It’s bone dry, with very modest black-berry fruit. —S.H.

81 Stuart Ce l lars 2007 L imitedReserve Syrah (Temecula Valley);

$40. A dry, tannicly dessicated wine largely lack-ing in fruit. Tastes of alcohol and pepper, withjust a sprinkle of blackberry juice. —S.H.

PETITE SIRAH

92 C. Beck 2007 Petite Sirah (NapaValley); $38. A very good, even noble

Petite Sirah whose classic structure expresses thevariety’s personality in an elegant way. Tannic anddry, it’s a big, fruity wine, with notes of blackber-ries, coffee, dark chocolate and tar. Now–2013.—S.H.

92 Concannon 2006 Heritage PetiteSirah (Livermore Valley); $50. A

huge wine, power-packed in richness. Cherries,

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chocolate, raspberries, currants, licorice, evensuggestions of spicy pecan pie flood the palatedeliciously. Then the tannins kick in, and fiercethey are. Acidity is fine, and the finish is bonedry. Drink this superior Petite Sirah now, and itshould age for many, many years. —S.H.

91 Dashe Cellars 2007 Todd BrothersRanch Petite Sirah (Alexander Val-

ley); $35. This lovely Petite Sirah preserves thevariety’s full-bodied richness, but the tannins areso gentle, it’s drinkable now. Shows deep, ripe fla-vors of blackberries and black currants, withmeaty notes of grilled beef and a chocolaty, pep-pery finish. Lush and complex, it drinks beauti-fully with grilled steak, and will elevate a gourmethamburger. —S.H.

88 Concannon 2006 Reserve PetiteSirah (Livermore Valley); $38. Hard

in tannins and acidic, this is a pretty unrelievedwine when it comes to palate enjoyment. It’s notoffering much, but there is a big heart of black-berries and dark, ripe cherries, leading to specu-lations about ageability. Since this is Petite Sirah,it’s likely to gradually soften and mellow for atleast ten years. —S.H.

87 Perry Creek 2007 Altitude 2401Fair Play Farms Petite Sirah (El

Dorado); $28. Soft and dry, this Petite Sirahhas delicious, mouthfilling flavors of blackberries,milk chocolate, black licorice and pepper, set offwith firm tannins. It’s quite a nice full-bodiedwine that needs rich fare, like short ribs, beeftacos or beef stew, made with the wine. —S.H.

86 Mounts 2007 Estate Grown PetiteSirah (Dry Creek Valley); $32.

Heavy tannins, which accentuate the acids, lockthis wine down now, making it astringently dryand tart. Underneath all that are deep, earthy fla-vors of blackberries, coffee and pepper. Doesn’tseem to be ageworthy, so drink up. —S.H.

84 Beaver Creek 2007 Horne RanchPetite Sirah (Lake County); $24.

Soft and one-dimensional, but with some prettyflavors, this is a wine to drink now. Shows black-berries, black currants and black pepper, with atouch of raisins. —S.H.

84 J. Rickards 2007 Brown Barn Vine-yard Petite Sirah (Alexander Val-

ley); $24. Shows the thick, furry tannins PetiteSirah is known for, with some good black currant,

anise and cedar flavors. Feels a bit sharp, with acut of mint. Drink now. —S.H.

83 Concannon 2007 Nina’s CuveePetite Sirah (Livermore Valley);

$30. Smells and tastes over-oaked; a little tooacidic and thin in flavor. The oak tannins arestrongly astringent. —S.H.

83 Glen El len 2007 Proprietor’sReserve Petite Sirah (California);

$10. A bit thin and rugged, but gets the red winejob done, with cherry, plum and black pepper fla-vors that finish dry. —S.H.

83 Pennywise 2008 Petite Sirah (Cali-fornia); $12. Comes down on the hard,

rough side of the Petite Sirah spectrum, withjagged tannins and dry flavors of cola, green mint,blackberries, bacon and black pepper that turnbitter toward the finish. —S.H.

82 Galante 2008 Olive Hill PetiteSirah (Carmel Valley); $40. An awk-

ward wine whose chief problem is the mouthfeel.It’s bone dry and sharp, with unripe green flavorsand harsh acidity. Not going anywhere, so drinkup. —S.H.

82 Mutt Lynch 2007 Canis MajorPetite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley);

$25. Dry, bitter and tannic. Mouth-numbingastringency overwhelms the modest blackberryfruit. Ready now. —S.H.

GRENACHE

95 Zaca Mesa 2007 Grenache (SantaYnez Valley); $32. This spectacular

100% Grenache is a huge success. It’s so deli-cious, you can hardly stop drinking it. Just oozesin r a spber ry and red cher ry purée andcaramelized, smoky oak richness, yet is thor-oughly dry. An amazing, unforgettable wine thatestablishes a new benchmark for CaliforniaGrenache from this winery that was an early pio-neer in Rhône varieties. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

83 Minassian-Young 2007 Grenache(Paso Robles); $22. A simple wine,

with cola, herb and raspberry tea flavors that aredry, but have a sharp mouthfeel. Seems unevenlyripened, with awkward tannins. —S.H.

83 Niner 2007 Bootjack Ranch San-giovese (Paso Robles); $24. Tart in

acidity, with simple cherry flavors that taste bakedinto a pie. But the finish is fully dry. Tannic, too,with the result that the mouthfeel is hard as nails.—S.H.

82 Paoletti 2008 Fiore Sangiovese(Napa Valley); $20. Tastes as sweet as

raspberry or cherry jam, with a cut of citrusy acid-ity. This rustic wine also has some firm, furry tan-nins. —S.H.

82 Venteux 2007 Grenache (PasoRobles); $28. Soft, sweet and Porty,

with sugared flavors of red cherry jam and redcurrants. Feels hot and prickly in the mouth. —S.H.

BARBERA

86 Eberle 2008 Barbera (Paso Robles);$26. Dry, robust and gritty in tannins,

this country-style wine also has a hefty dose ofacidity. Its blackberry flavors are tinged withearthy notes of coffee and tobacco. Needs some-thing rich and oily, like lasagna. —S.H.

81 Lava Cap 2007 Reserve Barbera(El Dorado); $18. Too soft and sweet,

like melted raspberry jam. Feels tired andsyrupy. —S.H.

80 Rosa d’Oro 2008 Estate GrownBarbera (Clear Lake); $20. Too sweet

in sugary blackberry jam to earn a higher score,but if that’s your liking, go for it. —S.H.

DOLCETTO

82 Villa Andretti 2008 Dolcetto (Cali-fornia); $33. Super-high in acids,

almost sour, and tannic too, with dry flavors ofbitter cherries. If this is your kind of wine, breakout the rich meats, butter and cheese and enjoy.—S.H.

80 Rosa d’Oro 2007 Dolcetto (LakeCounty); $18. After the sulfur smell

blows off, this wine remains tough in acids andtannins. —S.H.

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OTHER RED WINES

86 Trinchero 2007 Central Park WestVineyard Petit Verdot (St. Helena);

$50. The underlying wine is thin in fruit, so whatstars is oak, with its toasty, caramelized aromasand flavors. It’s also fiercely tannic. You’ll findsome briary blackberries and blueberries, but thewine illustrates why Petit Verdot is best used as ablender. —S.H.

85 Minassian-Young 2007 Mourvèdre(Paso Robles); $23. A pleasantly dry

wine, with cherry and cocoa flavors that finish in aswirl of licorice and cinnamon spice. It’s a soft,fruity sipper with a touch of heat from high alco-hol. —S.H.

85 Paoletti 2006 Malbec (Napa Val-ley); $32. Very dry and tannic, this Mal-

bec has an unrelieved toughness in the mouth,despite some good cherry flavors. The texture isjust too hard, and shows some bitterness in thefinish. Drink now. —S.H.

85 Paoletti 2007 Nero Cuvée SpecialeNero d’Avola (Napa Valley); $36.

The variety is important in Sicily. In California,just about the only winery producing it is Pao-letti. It has made a very dry, tannic and rusticallyastringent wine, with bitter cherryskin flavors.Drink now. —S.H.

81 Rosa d’Oro 2008 Estate GrownPrimitivo (Clear Lake); $18. So

acidic it’s sour, and the fruit flavors disappear in atart swirl of wintergreen. Acceptable, but justbarely. —S.H.

DESSERT WINES

85 Prager 2006 Tomas Imogene’sVineyard Port (Napa Valley); $52.

Smooth and velvety, with chocolate-cherry fla-vors, but the sweetness tails off quickly, disap-pointing the palate. Good and sound, but lacksthe continuing richness you want in a true Port-style wine, especially at this price. —S.H.

85 Prager 2005 Royal Escort PaladiniVineyard Port (Napa Valley); $72.

There’s some richness in this chocolate- andcherry-flavored wine, but it really falls off quickly,leading to a thin finish. Lacks the sweet concen-

tration this winery’s Port-style wines used to have.—S.H.

83 Prager NV Noble CompanionTawny Port (Napa Valley); $65.

Harsh and hot in alcohol, and completely lackingthe richness of fruit for balance, this Port-stylewine offers only modest chocolate and cherry fla-vors. Ridiculously overpriced. —S.H.

ROSÉ

90 La Rochelle 2009 Pinot Noir Rosé(Santa Lucia Highlands); $18. A

delightful wine that fulfills the blush require-ments of absolute dryness, zesty crispness andtantalizing flavor. Made from a blend of free runand press juice, it’s silky and clean in the mouth,with nuanced flavors of raspberry, strawberry, cin-namon spice and vanilla. One of the best rosésout there. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

85 Longoria 2009 Cuvée June PinkWine (Santa Barbara County);

$22. Made from Syrah and Grenache, this rosé isnicely crisp, with low alcohol. It’s a little heavy incherry and raspberry fruit flavors, but easy to likeover a burger. —S.H.

82 Glen Ellen 2009 Zinfandel Rosé(California); $10. Light and sweet, with

raspberry jelly flavors and lots of acidity. —S.H.

82 Longevity 2009 Syrah Rosé (Con-tra Costa County); $18. Heavy and

dull, with softly candied raspberry and currantflavors. —S.H.

CALIFORNIAWHITE WINESSAUVIGNON BLANC

93 Lancaster 2009 Samantha’s EstateSauvignon Blanc (Alexander Val-

ley); $24. A worthy white wine to stand besidethe winery’s estate red. Made from a single vine-yard, it’s absolutely dry and brilliantly crisp inacidity, with subtle, complex flavors of whitepeach, citrus fruits, minerals and white flowers. Atouch of oak adds the perfect note of toast. Veryfancy and upscale. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

92 Brander 2009 Au Naturel Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley);

$32. There’s no oak on this wine, so it’s hard tobelieve it’s this rich and complex. The flavors areof citrus fruits, white peaches and tart greenapples. Hard to say why it’s so good, beyond somefabulous contribution from the vineyard thatoffers a complex minerality. Best of all is the racyacidity. Brilliant with shellfish. —S.H.

92 Galante 2009 Estate BottledSauvignon Blanc (Carmel Valley);

$25. Easily as good as the richly dramatic 2008.Galante is proving itself a serious player in theSauvignon Blanc sweepstakes. Oak-aged, thewine is wonderfully dry and crisp, with citrus,melon and fig flavors that are entirely ripe, andfinish in a swirl of peppery spice. Editors’Choice. —S.H.

91 Brander 2009 Purisima MountainSauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val-

ley); $25. So pure and clean, as fine an exampleof Sauvignon Blanc as exists in California. Onlyfree run juice is used, so there’s no bitterness atall, just ripe, exotic flavors of limes, lemons,grapefruits, minerals and flowers. Compelling,and a very great food wine for just about anythingthat needs a crisp, dry white. —S.H.

90 Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley); $16.

Dry, dry, dry is the name of the game with thisSauvignon Blanc. It’s rich in Meyer lemon, kaffirlime and pineapple flavors, with intense, zestyacidity for clean balance, and the finish is spicyand stimulating. A beautiful cocktail wine to get afancy dinner started. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

90 Mauritson 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Dry Creek Valley); $17. Mauritson

has been building up a pretty good track recordwith their unoaked Sauvignon Blanc. This ’09shows the balance of the vintage, with excellentacidity, modest alcohol and complex varietal fla-vors that range from citrus fruits and apples tospices and gooseberries. It’s unusually good forthe price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

89 Brander 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Santa Ynez Valley); $15. Shows the

dryness and raciness of all Brander’s SauvignonBlancs, with lovely, delicious citrus fruit, lemon-grass, vanilla, honeysuckle and spice flavors. Just adelight to drink, at a great price. Editors’Choice. —S.H.

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BUYING I GUIDE

89 Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 FuméBlanc (Sonoma County); $12. This

is a delicious, balanced Sauvignon Blanc that’s theequal of many wines costing much more, whichmakes it a great value. It features lemon and limeflavors made richer by notes of pineapples andhoneysuckle. Entirely unoaked, it’s a great cock-tail sipper. Best Buy. —S.H.

89 Robert Pepi 2008 Sauvignon Blanc(California); $11. Fills an important

niche in California whites, a bone-dry, tartly crisp,minerally wine that gets the mouth watering.With pleasant citrus, floral and peppery spice fla-vors, it’s perfect as a cocktail sipper with appetiz-ers, like puff pastries, grilled veggies, toast roundswith goat cheese. Best Buy. —S.H.

88 Justin 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (PasoRobles); $15. Aims for the New

Zealand style, and largely gets it right. It’s a bone-dry, acidic wine, with a steely minerality and fla-vors of tart citrus fruits, like lemons, limes andgrapefruits. This minimalist approach is sorelywelcome in the lineup of California whites. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.H.

88 Mutt Lynch 2009 Fou Fou le BlancSauvignon Blanc (Central Coast);

$14. Super-zesty in acidity, this unoaked Sauvi-gnon Blanc also is dry and rich. It swamps thepalate with lemon, lime, grapefruit, fig and greengrass flavors that finish long and spicy. Editors’Choice. —S.H.

88 Trinchero 2009 Mary’s VineyardSauvignon Blanc (Calistoga); $24.

A wonderful Sauvignon Blanc, bone dry andtartly crisp, with mouthwatering flavors oflemons, limes, grapefruits, minerals, vanilla andpeppery spices. Entirely unoaked, it’s a fine cock-tail sipper, and great with savory little appetizers.—S.H.

87 Babcock 2009 Estate Grown Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Sta. Rita Hills); $18.

Although there’s no oak on this wine, it has a spicysmokiness that could come from a drop ofGrenache. There are also percentages ofChardonnay and Pinot Gris that fatten Sauvi-gnon’s minerals and limes. Acidity is mouthwater-ingly high. This isn’t a great wine, but it is aunique one, especially for Santa Rita Hills. —S.H.

87 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 RavaBlackjack Vineyard Sauvignon

Blanc (Monterey); $18. Good citrus fruit fla-vors, along the lines of grapefruits, limes andMeyer lemons, accompanied by zesty aciditymark this bone-dry Sauvignon Blanc. It reallyscours the mouth clean. Very nice with puff pas-try mushroom appetizers, bruschetta with goatcheese and roasted red peppers, or crudités witha garlicky sour cream dip. —S.H.

87 Kenwood 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Sonoma County); $13. Made in a

wonderfully dry, crisp style, Sauvignon Blancs likethis fill a much-needed niche in fruit-heavy Cali-fornia. It’s zesty and minerally, with lemon, limeand grapefruit flavors. Beautiful as a cocktail sip-per, or with the perfect roast chicken. —S.H.

87 Line 39 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Lake County); $10. The curve on this

wine has been going up and up, and this ’09 istheir best yet. It’s bone dry and savory in acids,with ultraclean citrus, mineral and white flowerflavors. Just delicious as a cocktail sipper. BestBuy. —S.H.

87 Six Sigma 2009 Bootleg LimitedRelease Sauvignon Blanc (Lake

County); $34. Super-dry and acidically crisp,this wine has green grass, citrus and white pepperflavors. It’s austere, although the lean elegancewill pair well with shellfish. —S.H.

86 Brander 2009 Mesa Verde VineyardSauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val-

ley); $22. With a green grassiness that justifiesthe vineyard’s name, this is a New Zealand-stylewine. It’s bone dry and zesty in acidity, with citrus,hay and gooseberry flavors, and more than a littlefeline spray you’ll either love or hate. —S.H.

86 Cali 351 2008 Sauvignon Blanc(Napa Valley); $20. Bone dry and

tartly crisp in acidity, this wine’s lemongrass andgrapefruit flavors are showing their age. It’s justbeginning to break up. Pretty good, but drink thisyear. —S.H.

86 Concannon 2008 Reserve Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Monterey County);

$18. Nicely dry, acidic and minerally, with tartMeyer lemon, lime and pink grapefruit flavors.Suffers a bit from some green unripeness thatsuggests vegetable. Not too much, though, andpretty good for the price. —S.H.

85 Ca’ Momi 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Napa Valley); $15. A very nice

Sauvignon Blanc at a fair price. It’s dry, crisplytart and citrusy, with flavors of lemons, grape-fruits and limes. Leaves the palate clean andstimulated. —S.H.

85 Little Black Dress 2009 SauvignonBlanc (California); $11. A vibrantly

fruity wine, with lemon, lime, pineapple andgrapefruit flavors brightened with zesty acidity.It’s basically dryish to off-dry, with a touch ofhoney on the finish. Good price for an easy cock-tail sipper. —S.H.

85 Morgan 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Monterey); $15. Bone dry and tart in

acidity, both of which are nice, with mouthwater-ing lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors. Would bebetter if not for some green feline notes that arealmost sour. —S.H.

85 Six Sigma 2009 Michael’s VineyardSauvignon Blanc (Lake County);

$28. Nicely dry and crisp, with mouthwateringcitrus fruit, lemongrass, gooseberry and mineralflavors. Marred by excessively unripe feline notes,however, that bother the palate. —S.H.

85 Wrath 2009 San Saba VineyardSauvignon Blanc (Monterey); $23.

Nicely dry and crisply acidic, with a minerallyscour of stone that cleans the mouth and gets thetastebuds watering. The flavors are of cool-cli-mate lemons, lime and grapefruits. But shows aconsiderable note of green, feline spray that low-ers the score. —S.H.

84 Ehret 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Knights Valley); $16. Very clean and

zesty in acidity, with pure, fruity citrus and peachflavors. This unoaked, dryish Sauvignon Blanc is anice cocktail sipper. —S.H.

84 Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Sauvi-gnon Blanc (California); $8. Bone

dry and ultracrisp in acidity, with citrus andlemongrass flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc is veryclean and invigorating. Better yet, the everydayprice is right. Best Buy. —S.H.

84 Six Sigma 2009 Sauvignon Blanc(Lake County); $16. Too strong in

green, feline aromas and flavors, indicatingunripeness. The acids are strong, and the wine is

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fully dry. Despite some citrus flavors, it reallyneeds greater fruit to earn a higher score. —S.H.

83 J. Rickards 2009 Croft VineyardSauvignon Blanc (Alexander Val-

ley); $18. If you like tart, green gooseberries inyour white wines, this is for you. It has that rathervegetal, feline flavor, alongside riper lemons andlimes that finish basically dry and crisp. —S.H.

83 Titus 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (NapaValley); $20. Dry and crisp, with good

varietal flavors of citrus fruits and lemongrass.But this wine is also very potent in unripe, greennotes that include the notorious feline compo-nent. That lowers the score. —S.H.

82 Buttonwood Farm 2009 ZingySauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Val-

ley); $18. Sweet and sour, with simple pineap-ple, mint and orange flavors, and a cut of tartacidity. —S.H.

81 Estraié 2007 Sauvignon Blanc(North Coast); $18. Dry, tart in acidity

and vegetal, this Sauvignon Blanc isn’t ripe. Ittastes like green beans with just a hint of citrus.—S.H.

CHARDONNAY

96 Stonestreet 2008 Upper BarnChardonnay (Alexander Valley);

$65. A monster Chardonnay, massive yet bal-anced. Shows fantastically ripe pineapple, goldenmango, lemon chiffon pie, buttered toast, crèmebrûlée and cinnamon spice flavors, brightenedwith crisp, clean acidity. Almost a food group initself. Reserve this for your boldest, most upscalefare, like lobster. —S.H.

95 Stonestreet 2008 Broken RoadChardonnay (Alexander Valley);

$55. This is an intense, nervy Chardonnay, richin acids and minerals that offer a tang to thepalate. It’s also dazzlingly rich, with complex fla-vors of pineapples, honeysuckle and butteredtoast. Shows extraordinary concentrationthroughout the long, spicy finish. —S.H.

94 Stonestreet 2008 Lower RimChardonnay (Alexander Valley);

$55. Ultrarich, an oily, unctuous wine offeringtiers of pineapples, pears, limes and mangoes,enriched with sweet, smoky oak. Made in the

superripe California style, yet always retains acrisp, dry elegance. —S.H.

93 Shafer 2008 Red Shoulder RanchChardonnay (Carneros); $48. After

many years of cult stardom, Shafer’s Red Shoul-der Ranch still rules. It performs the difficult featof combining powerful richness with dry ele-gance. The pineapple, Meyer lemon and kaffirlime flavors are undergirded with a steely miner-alty, while oak and lees add rich tiers of interest.The 2008 is tarter than usual, making it a goodfoil against lobster risotto or grilled salmon with atropical fruit salsa topping. —S.H.

93 Stonestreet 2008 Gravel BenchChardonnay (Alexander Valley);

$55. Quite oaky, with vanilla and caramelizedmeringue notes dominating, but underneath is adry, crisp Chardonnay of enormous size. It’s min-erally, with a rich vein of pineapples and man-goes. Decant for a while, and don’t serve too cold.—S.H.

93 Stonestreet 2008 Red PointChardonnay (Alexander Valley);

$55. This very fine Chardonnay has a stony, min-erally component, like a lick of cold steel. Thatvibrancy leads to rich pineapple and green applepurée flavors, enriched with cinnamon spices,toasty oak and creamy lees. It’s a complex, ele-gantly dry wine that will pick up bottle nuancesover the next 2–3 years. —S.H.

92 Dierberg 2007 Chardonnay (SantaMaria Valley); $32. A lovely Chardon-

nay, bone dry and rich, that shows how well thiscool Santa Barbara valley can develop the vari-ety. With crisp acidity and a tang of minerals, thewine is citrusy and floral, with opulent notes fromoak barrels and creamy lees. —S.H.

91 Clos La Chance 2008 Biagini Vine-yard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz

Mountains); $35. Shows a deft hand at bal-ancing all the elements. Ripe, citrusy tropicalfruits and green apples, oak, minerals, racy acid-ity, lees and the byproducts of malolactic fermen-tation all come together to produce a rich,complex, fruity young Chardonnay. Gets betteras it warms in the glass. —S.H.

91 Windsor Sonoma 2008 Chardon-nay (Russian River Valley); $20.

This is a firm, dry, minerally Chardonnay. It’s notblockbuster rich, but it is clean and vibrant and

elegant. The flinty flavors are enriched with notesof pineapples and green apples, while oak andlees give hints of buttered toast and sour cream.A very fine, food-friendly wine that sommeliersshould be aware of. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

90 Darc ie Kent V ineyards 2008DeMayo Vineyard Chardonnay

(Livermore Valley); $24. A good, drily tart,Chablis-style Chardonnay, with crisp acidity andstony minerality. Shows interesting flavors ofpineapples, tangerines, honeysuckle and cinna-mon spice. —S.H.

90 Dierberg 2008 Steel Chardonnay(Santa Maria Valley); $32. Made

without any oak influences, this wine shows thesplendors of great Santa Maria Chardonnay. It’smarked by complex flavors of Meyer lemons,pineapples, orange zest and honeysuckle, and isbeautifully bright in crisp acidity. Nice with freshcrab. —S.H.

90 MacRostie 2008 Chardonnay(Sonoma Coast); $25. A very good,

useful Chardonnay that’s easy to drink, yet alsoquite complex. Brisk and crisp in acidity, it showscitrus mineral, green apple and floral notes,touched with smoky oak. —S.H.

90 Molnar Family 2008 Poseidon’sVineyard Chardonnay (Carneros);

$25. The cool vintage has given this Chardon-nay a steely, minerally austerity, like Chablis. Itspedigreed origins and superior winemaking areevident in the overall balance. Dry and crisp inacidity, it’s a racy wine, with stone-licked citrus,apricot and peach flavors. —S.H.

89 Cali 351 2007 Chardonnay (NapaValley); $30. This is one of the drier,

steelier Chardonnays on the market. It shows fla-vors of Meyer lemons, limes and tart whitepeaches, with a tantalizing acidity that makes themouth water. Trades opulence for elegance, anice wine for roasted salmon and sweet summercorn. —S.H.

89 C o n c a n n o n 2 0 0 8 R e s e r v eChardonnay (Livermore Valley);

$20. Drier and earthier than many otherChardonnays, this one is easy to drink and foodfriendly. It shows oak-inspired flavors of pineap-ples and vanilla, with a creamy, leesy texture.Nice with poached salmon with roasted newpotatoes on a summer evening. —S.H.

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BUYING I GUIDE

89 Groth 2008 Chardonnay (NapaValley); $29. Shows rich, forward

pineapple tart and crème brûlée flavors that aresatisfying and dry. Delicious and spicy, althoughit’s just a bit sharp. Drink now. —S.H.

88 Francis Ford Coppola 2008 Sar-alee’s Vineyard Reserve Chardon-

nay (Russian River Valley); $25. A prettygood Chardonnay, dry and crisp and minerally. Itcomes from this famous vineyard in the heart ofthe southern valley, and shows proper flavors ofgreen apples and peaches, with a firm mineralityand fine acidity. Not particularly rich, but inter-esting and complex, and a good companion tofood. —S.H.

88 Jekel 2008 Gravelstone Chardon-nay (Arroyo Seco); $13. A clean,

brisk Chardonnay made from this small, cool partof Monterey County’s Salinas Valley. Shows itsregion’s bright acidity, and also its long hangtimeflavors of pineapples, peaches, green apples, limesand minerals. Nothing fancy or showy, just a reallynice Chard at a fair price. Best Buy. —S.H.

88 Tor Kenward 2008 Durell VineyardChardonnay (Russian River Val-

ley); $53. Dry, tart and citrusy. Offers stream-lined flavors of lemons, limes, tannic herb tea andminerals, with oak and lees adding much-neededrichness. It’s elegant in a Chablisian way, buttrades fruity opulence for a more complex, con-noisseur’s austerity. Drink now, and don’t over-chill. —S.H.

87 Brophy Clark 2008 Chardonnay(Santa Maria Valley); $20. Very

bright and acidic, with the savory taste of a sourlemondrop candy. If you’re sensitive to acidityyou’ll find it tart. But it’s deliciously layered, withtiers of buttered toast, vanilla and spice. —S.H.

87 Carmel Road 2008 Chardonnay(Monterey County); $18. This is a

good, sound, everyday Chardonnay. It’s very dryand crisp in Central Coast acidity, with mineral-laded flavors of lemons, limes, apples and pineap-ples, touched with vanilla and buttered toast.—S.H.

87 Castello di Amorosa 2008 BienNacido Vineyard Chardonnay

(Santa Barbara County); $38. This is a good,dry Chardonnay, marked by brisk acidity and asteely minerality. The fruit veers toward pineap-

ples and apricots, while oak adds notes of but-tered toast and caramel. Feels like it wants to bericher than it is, but it’s elegant. —S.H.

87 Clos La Chance 2008 Liebler Vine-yard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz

Mountains); $35. Made in the popular styleof ripe fruit, oak and soft creaminess. The pineap-ple jam, buttered popcorn and vanilla flavors areattractive and brightened by crisp acidity. —S.H.

87 Irony 2008 Chardonnay (Napa Val-ley); $13. Clean, brisk and balanced,

with good varietal flavors of pineapples, limes,peaches and exotic tropical fruits, brightenedwith zesty acidity. This is a good price for a classicCalifornia Chardonnay. —S.H.

87 Rutherford Hill 2008 Chardonnay(Napa Valley); $21. Lean and miner-

ally, this Chard offers lime and white peach fla-vors that finish bone dry and clean. It’s not a richwine, but it is very elegant, with a good scour ofbracing acidity. —S.H.

87 Villa Andretti 2009 Chardonnay(Napa Va l ley ) ; $28 . Not very

Chardonnay-like, more like a Viognier or PinotGris with its aromatic floral, tropical fruit, citrus,melon and spice aromas and flavors. Still, it’s verytasty, and dry as well, with a crisp spine of miner-ally acidity. —S.H.

86 Leto 2008 Chardonnay (Carneros);$30. This is a dry, firmly crisp Chardon-

nay, with pineapple, apricot, mineral and vanillaflavors. It’s somewhat simple and direct, but veryclean and zesty. Nice for drinking now. —S.H.

86 Paoletti 2008 Chardonnay (Russ-ian River Valley); $26. Sweet and

oaky, this Chard tastes like a vanilla and caramelcream soda, with alcohol and a squirt of pineap-ple essence. Defines the superripe, opulent style,without much complexity. —S.H.

85 Dillon 2008 Barrel FermentedChardonnay (Yountville); $23. Dry,

crisp and austere, although it’s elegant in its ownway. Shows citrus, mineral and lees flavors, withsome creamy, buttered toast notes. —S.H.

85 Gnarly Head 2009 Chardonnay(California); $11. Good and dry, with a

firm scour of acidity and an earthiness to the

pineapples and pears. This is a fine everydayChardonnay at a fair price. —S.H.

85 Nickel & Nickel 2008 Searby Vine-yard Chardonnay (Russian River

Valley); $45. Pretty severe, an acidic, raspinglydry wine and even a tannic one. Shows an astrin-gency rare in Chardonnay, even though there aresome good pineapple and buttered toast flavors.Not an ager. —S.H.

85 Nickel & Nickel 2008 TruchardVineyard Chardonnay (Carneros);

$45. One of the leanest, most severe Chardon-nays out there. In its favor is extreme dryness,elegance and a refreshing minerality. But the cit-rus flavors are so thin, there’s just not much goingon, and a little oak doesn’t help. Simply lacks rich-ness. —S.H.

85 Sonoma-Cutrer 2006 The CutrerChardonnay (Russian River Val-

ley); $35. Released at the age of nearly fouryears, this wine tastes a little sweet and tired, likemelted apricot jam sprinkled with vanilla and cin-namon, with dried fruit and herbal notes. Drinknow before it goes further downhill. —S.H.

85 Sonoma-Cutrer 2008 Chardonnay(Sonoma Coast); $24. A solid, direct

Chardonnay. Doesn’t offer a whole lot of com-plexity, but it’s dry and creamy, with spicy, oak-inspired pineapple and green apple flavors.—S.H.

85 Three Saints 2008 Chardonnay(Santa Maria Valley); $20. This

pretty good everyday Chardonnay shows slightlysweet flavors of peaches, pineapples and mangoesbrightened with crisp acidity. You could evenmake a summertime wine cooler with it. —S.H.

84 Magistrate 2008 Limited Produc-tion Chardonnay (Napa Valley);

$20. Made in the popular style, with vanilla oak,cream and sweet buttered popcorn notes domi-nating the pineapples, apricots and peaches. Pro-duction was 8,093 cases. —S.H.

84 Prager 2006 Aria White PortChardonnay (Napa Valley); $49.

Not much going on in this Chardonnay-basedPort-style wine. Its not particularly sweet, withbasic white chocolate and pineapple cream fla-vors. —S.H.

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84 Sonoma-Cutrer 2006 Les PierresChardonnay (Sonoma Coast); $36.

Thin and dry, with oak and alcohol flavors mod-estly enriched with a touch of pineapples, greenapples and minerals. Sadly, this is not the gloriousSonoma-Cutrer of the past. —S.H.

83 CRU Winery 2008 Vineyard Mon-tage Chardonnay (Monterey

County); $24. A tartly acidic, slightly greenwine, with mineral, peach, green grape andpineapple flavors. Turns sweet-and-sour on thefinish. —S.H.

83 CRU Winery 2008 AppellationSeries Chardonnay (Santa Lucia

Highlands); $30. Shows sweet-and-sourpineapple and orange fruit flavors, like a Chineserestaurant duck sauce. Lacks balance and sophis-tication, but will please fans of the style. —S.H.

83 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 WestPinnacles Vineyard Chardonnay

(Monterey County); $24. Too acidic, almostsour, and pretty sweet, with pineapple and orangeflavors. Gets the Chardonnay job done, but seemspricey for what you get. —S.H.

83 Dillon 2008 Stainless Steel Fer-mented Chardonnay (Yountville);

$23. Nicely dry, tart in acidity and clean, but fla-vor-wise, there’s not much going on. The tastesare of minerals and alcohol, with a squirt of citrusjuice. —S.H.

83 Mutt Lynch 2009 UnleashedChardonnay (Central Coast); $14.

Fruit-juice sweet, like a pineapple, orange andpeach drink, with high, almost sour acidity. Getsthe Chardonnay job done. —S.H.

82 Babcock 2008 Chardonnay (SantaBarbara County); $20. A bit vegetal,

and a bit sweet on the finish in pineapple candy.Not particularly successful. —S.H.

82 Cobblestone 2008 Chardonnay(Arroyo Seco); $29. Sweet and sim-

ple in apricot and pineapple flavors, with a heavycoating of caramelized oak. Drinkable, but dis-agreeably fruit-juicy. —S.H.

82 Concannon 2008 Selected Vine-yards Chardonnay (Central Coast);

$10. Vegetal, with an asparagus edge to the citrus

fruit flavors. That mars this otherwise clean, dryand zesty Chardonnay. —S.H.

82 CRU Winery 2008 AppellationSeries Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco);

$30. Very tart, almost sour in acidity, with unnat-urally sweet pineapple, buttered toast andcaramel flavors. —S.H.

82 Dancing Bull 2008 Vintage BlendChardonnay (California); $12. This

simple Chardonnay is soft and sweet, with somevanilla oaky notes. It’s made in the popular style.—S.H.

82 Hey Mambo 2008 Chardonnay(California); $13. Here’s a simple wine

that tastes like a supermarket fruit juice blend ofpeaches, mangoes and apricots. It’s soft and one-dimensional and slightly sweet in the finish. —S.H.

82 Monthaven 2008 Chardonnay(Central Coast); $24. This Chardon-

nay in a box is the equivalent of four regular bot-tles, but it’s not a very good wine. It’s ultradry andacidic, with unripe, vegetal flavors that justapproach citrus fruits. —S.H.

82 S i lves t r i 2007 Be l la SandraChardonnay (Carmel Valley); $20.

Even though this wine is nicely dry and crisp, it’stoo vegetal, with a green bean taste. —S.H.

81 Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Chardon-nay (California); $8. If this is the

reserve, I’d hate to taste the regular. There’salmost no fruit, with only a drop of citrus swim-ming in the alcohol and acidity. —S.H.

81 Q 2008 Chardonnay (SonomaCounty); $17. Soft and sugary sweet,

with pineapple jam flavors. Lots of people will likeit, but it’s a pretty common Chardonnay. —S.H.

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

91 Carr 2009 Turner Vineyard PinotGris (Sta. Rita Hills); $20. Racy in

acidity, this unoaked wine was bottled early topreserve fresh fruitiness. It’s clean and dry in themouth, with fine, delicate flavors of citrus fruits,apricots, white peaches, green apples and a touchof honeysuckle and stony minerals. A brilliantlyracy wine that needs no wood to be opulent andcompelling. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

88 Babcock 2009 Naughty Little Hill-sides Pinot Gris (Sta. Rita Hills);

$23. A secret of Santa Rita Hills is how kind theterroir is to Pinot Grigio AKA Pinot Gris. Bab-cock expresses its crisply acidic, long hangtimevarietal flavors in an unoaked way, with splendidcitrus and tropical fruit flavors, girded by a steelyminerality. The wine, by the way, is dry, althoughit has a honeyed richness. —S.H.

88 Longoria 2009 Pinot Grigio (SantaBarbara County); $19. Made the way

Pinot Grigio should be. Bone dry and zesty inacidity, it has citrus, mineral and floral flavors thatfinish with a scour of peppery spice. A brilliantcocktail sipper that will also complement savoryappetizers. —S.H.

87 Morgan 2009 R&D FranscioniVineyard Pinot Gris (Santa Lucia

Highlands); $17. As always with Morgan’sPinot Gris, the 2009 is bone dry and ultracrisp inacidity, with mouthwatering citrus, apricot andgreen apple flavors. Great as a cocktail sipper,especially with shrimp cocktail. —S.H.

87 Murphy-Goode 2008 Pinot Grigio(California); $12. Clean and crisp in

acidity, this polished PG features citrus fruit, pear,white flower and spice flavors. It’s a racy, mouth-cleansing wine that’s nice as an apéritif as the daycomes to a close. —S.H.

86 Big House 2009 The Birdman PinotGrigio (Monterey); $12. Dry and

zesty in mouthwatering acidity, this clean winefeatures upfront flavors of lemons, limes, grape-fruits and oranges. It’s a nice cocktail sipper at agood price. —S.H.

84 Francis Ford Coppola 2009 PresentsBianco Pinot Grigio (California);

$11. Simple and fruity, with tart citrus flavors, likea lemon and lime fruit drink. Not much going on,but it’s clean, dry and zesty. —S.H.

84 Glen El len 2009 Proprietor’sReserve Pinot Grigio (California);

$10. Good value in a dry, crisp white wine.Shows nice, friendly flavors of citrus fruits, greenapples and white peaches, with a mouthwater-ingly clean cut of acidity. Best Buy. —S.H.

84 Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Pinot Gri-gio (California); $8. Absolutely dry

and tingly in acidity, this citrus-flavored wine is

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clean and zesty. It’s a fine appetizer sipper forcleansing the palate. Serve it with little munchies,like grilled veggies, goat cheese and crackers withcrab salad. Best Buy. —S.H.

84 Swanson 2008 Pinot Grigio (NapaValley); $21. Tastes old, even though

it’s only from 2008, with some oxidized notes. It’sa bone-dry wine, but those citrus and flower fla-vors are tired. —S.H.

83 Bota Box 2009 Pinot Grigio (Cali-fornia); $19/3L. This boxed wine has

some problems, but at the equivalent of $4.75 abottle, and with the staying power of its vacuumtechnology, it’s a pretty good buy. Bone dry andcrisp, it has pleasant citrus fruit, vanilla and pep-pery spice flavors. Best Buy. —S.H.

83 Loredona 2009 Pinot Grigio (Mon-terey); $11. This wine’s citrus, apple,

floral and vanilla flavors are dryish to off-dry. It’s asoft, simple wine that will appeal to folks who likea little sweetness in the finish. —S.H.

83 Robert Pepi 2007 Pinot Grigio(California); $11. Bone dry and nicely

crisp, and the price is right, but the wine itself hassome problems. The fruits tend toward lean, tartgrapefruits, lemons and limes, with a touch ofvegetable. —S.H.

82 Francis Coppola 2009 DiamondCollection Emerald Label Pinot

Grigio (California); $16. A semisweet wine,with apricot jam and citrus flavors, offset by crispacidity. Turns cloying after a few sips. —S.H.

82 Jenica Peak 2008 Coastal SeriesPinot Grigio (California); $10. Sim-

ple, thin and sugary, with sweet pineapple andpeach juice flavors. —S.H.

VIOGNIER

91 Koehler 2008 Viognier (SantaYnez Valley); $18. One of the cleaner,

brisker and more balanced Viogniers on the mar-ket. It’s bone dry and nicely crisp, with citrus,peach, guava, wildflower and mineral flavors.Racy and complex, and despite the power, it’s del-icate. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

84 Clos La Chance 2009 Estate Viog-nier (Central Coast); $22. Nice and

crisp, with zesty acidity brightening jammy pineap-ple and vanilla flavors. But it’s too sweet, almostlike a dessert wine, and palls after a sip. —S.H.

84 Justin 2008 Viognier (Paso Rob-les); $23. This is a dry, tart and ulti-

mately uninteresting Viognier. It shows citrus,tropical fruit and floral flavors that are linear anddirect. Needs greater richness, especially at thisprice. —S.H.

83 Oak Grove 2009 Reserve Viognier(California); $8. Watery, with barely

any flavor at all. If you try, you’ll find some citrusfruit. But it’s clean, dry and crisp in acidity, andserves a purpose at a decent price. —S.H.

81 Stuart Cellars 2008 Limited Bot-tling Viognier (California); $21.

Dry and harsh, with overwhelming feline smellsand tastes. —S.H.

MOSCATO

85 Barefoot Bubbly NV MoscatoSpumante (California); $11. This is

the winery’s off-dry sparkler. It’s super-clean andcrisp, with honeyed flavors of oranges and tan-gerines. A nice sip with fresh fruits, smoked ham,asparagus wrapped in prosciutto. —S.H.

84 Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi2008 Moscato (California); $8. Soft

and sugary sweet, with apricot, tangerine and cit-ron flavors, this is a pretty, fairly simple wine.Good for drinking at picnics, with ham, fruitsalad. —S.H.

83 Villa Andretti 2009 Moscato (NapaValley); $24. Super-sweet in honeyed

richness, but that’s not enough to rescue thiswine. It’s not fruity enough. Shows herb andpineapple flavors, so that the sweetness is prettymuch all you get. —S.H.

RIESLING

88 Bonterra 2009 Riesling (LakeCounty-Mendocino County); $13.

Ultraclean and bright, as Bonterra’s wines nearlyalways are, this Riesling shows good varietal fla-vors of citrus fruits, peaches, wildflowers and min-erals. It’s bone dry, and the acidity is wonderfully

mouth-cleansing. Try as an alternative to Sauvi-gnon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. Best Buy —S.H.

87 Villa Andretti 2009 Riesling (NapaValley); $28. Very dry, this Riesling

shows tart acidity, with apricot, green apple, citrusand floral flavors, and a tug of stony minerals. It’sa severe wine, but well-structured and elegant.Fine as an apéritif sipper. —S.H.

84 Prager 2007 Sweet Claire LateHarvest Riesling (California); $28.

Good for its apricot, vanilla and buttercream fla-vors, but really lacks the sweet richness that anexpensive dessert wine needs. It falls apart mid-palate, and turns watery on the finish. —S.H.

83 Loredona 2009 Riesling (Mon-terey); $11. Made off-dry, with a sug-

ary edge to the citrus, apple and flower flavors.The acidity is tingly. Okay for an everyday sipperif you like your white wines sweet. —S.H.

SÉMILLON

86 Yorkville Cellars 2008 Randle HillVineyard Sémillon (Yorkville High-

lands); $20. Notable for its dryness, crispness ofacidity and the brightness of the citrus fruit andhoneysuckle flavors. Could be Sauvignon Blancor Pinot Grigio, but whatever, it’s a very nice,clean white wine. —S.H.

85 Castello di Amorosa 2006 Il Pas-s i t o L a t e H a r v e s t S é m i l l o n

(Sonoma County); $79. Very sweet, with hon-eyed flavors of apricots, peaches and vanillacrème brûlée, but lacks the acidity a sweet wineneeds for liveliness. —S.H.

WHITE BLENDS

91 Volker Eisele 2008 Gemini Semil-lon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-

ley); $25. Made from Sémillon and SauvignonBlanc, this is a very dry, quite acidic white winethat scrapes and scours the palate with tartness. Itshows flavors of citrus fruits, honeysuckle flowersand vanilla. Good as a clean cocktail sipper, butreally needs savory little snacks, like pizza sliceswith chicken, prosciutto-wrapped mozarella, oreven paté on crackers. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.

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88 Brander 2009 Cuvée Natal ie(Santa Ynez Valley); $28. A beauti-

fully clean, crisply dry wine that offers plenty ofminerals, but doesn’t stint on the fruit. With cit-rus, peach, tart green apple, gardenia and goose-berry flavors, it’s super-drinkable with a widevariety of foods. This unoaked blend consists ofSauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Gris. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.H.

86 Buttonwood Farm 2008 DevinEstate Grown Sauvignon Blanc-

Semillon (Santa Ynez Valley); $24. A nice,fairly rich wine made from this classic blend oftwo varieties. It’s dry and crisp, with zippy citrusfruits made more complex with notes of peachesand pears and a touch of spicy vanilla. —S.H.

86 Vina Robles 2009 White4 Huer-huero (Paso Robles); $16. Lots to

like in this creative blend of Vermentino,Verdelho, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. It’s wellacidified, with citrus, orange blossom, peach,apricot, buttercream and mineral flavors. Just abit too sweet, though, with a sugary taste through-out. —S.H.

85 Ca’ Momi 2009 Bianco di Napa(Napa Valley); $10. A little sweet, like

a fruit juice blend of oranges and pineapples, butnicely crisp, with balancing acidity and a firmtouch of minerals. It’s a sound house white winefor everyday purposes. Best Buy. —S.H.

83 Big House 2009 White (California);$10. Thin in flavor but dry and zesty,

this blend of five varieties delivers modestorange, peach and vanilla flavors. —S.H.

83 J. Rickards 2008 Twilight (SonomaCounty); $22. Sweet, but thin in fla-

vor, with modest orange, vanilla and buttercreamnotes. Pretty much all you get is sugar and alco-hol. Mostly Sémillon, with some Muscat Canelli.—S.H.

OTHER WHITE WINES

89 Carlotta 2008 Alder Springs Vine-yard Marsanne (Mendocino); $32.

Quite dark in color, with a weird gold-orange hue,but tastes clean and zesty. French oak barrelaging gives a vanilla, buttered-toast edge to theapricot, papaya, orange and honeysuckle flavors.

Ready now as an exotic alternative to a barrel-fermented Chardonnay. —S.H.

88 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2009 RavaBlackjack Vineyad Grüner Velt-

liner (Monterey); $18. This is a very nice, ele-gant wine for cleansing the palate. It’s absolutelybone dry, with zesty acidity and subtle flavors oflemons, limes, steely minerals, spices and a touchof honeysuckle. Places itself in the upper eche-lons of this variety in California. Editors’Choice. —S.H.

87 Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 WilsonRanch Dry Chenin Blanc (Clarks-

burg); $12. A beautiful Chenin, among the bestin California. Although it is dry, as the name sug-gests, and very crisp in acidity, it’s so fruity italmost tastes off-dry. The flavors are of greenapples, lemons, limes and pineapples. Great asan alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio.Best Buy. —S.H.

87 Longoria 2009 Clover Creek Vine-yard Albariño (Santa Ynez Valley);

$23. Acidity marks this wine, as well as extremedryness. The result is mouth-cleansing, but it’snot without flavor. Strong in lemons, limes andpineapples, with a mineral component, it’s zestyand delicious. —S.H.

SPARKLING WINES

91 En Tirage 1992 Recently Dis-gorged Extra Brut (Russian River

Valley); $60. The fruit on this 18-year-old brutis largely gone, and what remains behind arecomplex tiers of toast, brioche, lees, roastedhazelnuts and vanilla. A fascinating sparkler,totally dry and very crisp in acidity. Delightful todrink, and should continue to evolve in the bottlefor years. —S.H.

86 Francis Coppola 2009 Sofia Blancde Blancs (Monterey County); $19.

Dry and rather scoury, with a rough mouthfeel.But it’s clean and bone dry, and shows propersparkling wine flavors of citrus, vanilla, yeast andgreen apple. —S.H.

86 Korbel 2008 Brut Made WithOrganically Grown Grapes (Cali-

fornia); $16. This is a nice, dry sparkling wine,rich in citrus, apple, yeasty brioche and spice fla-vors. The bubbles are a little ragged, giving it a

scoury mouthfeel. But for the price, it’s a finebubbly. —S.H.

85 Barefoot Bubbly NV Brut Cuvée(California); $11. You’ll find brisk,

clean flavors of citrus fruits, vanilla wedding cakeand yeast in this brut-style wine, which is totallydry. A bit scoury, but a good value in sparklingwine. —S.H.

AUSTRALIAGRENACHE

94 R Wines 2007 Chateau ChateauPergola Blewitt Springs Grenache

(McLaren Vale); $67. Remarkably well bal-anced for a wine at nearly 16% alcohol, this isalso quite fragrant and complex, boasting an arrayof scents ranging from slightly mushroomy, savorynotes through dried flowers and baking spices.The texture is wonderfully lush and supple, whilethe flavors add fruit sweetness to the savory com-ponents. Long on the finish. Drink now–2015.Imported by The Grateful Palate. Cellar Selec-tion. —J.C.

93 Clarendon Hills 2007 BlewittSprings Grenache (Clarendon);

$50. Blewitt + Grenache + 2007 = somethingmagical, to judge from the two offerings tastedfor this report. Clarendon Hills’s bottling is denseand powerful yet doesn’t lose its way. Potent plumpudding and spice cake notes offer plenty of com-plexity and richness, without excessive weight.Long and slightly warming on the finish. Drinknow–2017. Imported by Wine Brokers Unlim-ited. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.

92 The Old Faithful 2005 NorthernExposure Grenache (McLaren

Vale); $38. Starts off with intriguing aromas ofcoffee, clove and plum that segue into dark,warming flavors. It’s full bodied, lush and almostcreamy in texture, with supple tannins that onlyhint at their presence before fading into a long,licorice-tinged finish. Best now–2013. Importedby USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.

92 Yalumba 2006 Hand Picked SingleSi te Moppa Block Grenache

(Barossa); $70. So supple and lush that itappears to demand early drinking, the MoppaBlock Grenache also features enough spice andleather to give it the requisite complexity in its

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youth. Plummy fruit turns a bit chocolaty on thelong finish. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc.—J.C.

91 Clarendon Hi l ls 2007 RomasGrenache (Clarendon); $75. The

rare Australian Grenache you might consider cel-laring for more than a couple of years, the 2007Romas features dark, plummy fruit accented withhints of coffee and chocolate. It’s full bodied andrichly textured without being overly astringent,with a long finish. Drink 2012–2020. Importedby Wine Brokers Unlimited. Cellar Selection.—J.C.

91 Torbreck 2006 Les Amis Grenache(Barossa Valley); $180. From vines

planted more than a century ago, this is dark-fruited Grenache that features hints of mint orcamphor alongside ample spice. It’s full bodiedand supple-textured, round in the mouth withoutbeing overblown, finally finishing with a touch ofalcoholic warmth. Seems ready to go now–2015.Imported by Torbreck. —J.C.

90 Clarendon Hills 2007 ClarendonGrenache (Clarendon); $45. The

2007 Clarendon is in a more feminine, approach-able style than Roman Bratasiuk’s other 2007Grenaches, featuring dried spices, watermelonand cherry aromas and fine—almost delicate—tannins. Cherry-berry flavors finish with hints ofcinnamon and clove. Drink now–2015. Importedby Wine Brokers Unlimited. —J.C.

90 R Wines 2007 Chateau ChateauI s l a n d E b e n e z e r G r e n a c h e

(Barossa Valley); $67. Fair warning: the alco-hol level on this wine reaches 18.6%, which reallycan’t help but be felt. It does deliver an impres-sive array of cherry, plum, chocolate and spicecomplexity, just don’t expect it to age gracefullygiven its tenuous balance. Imported by TheGrateful Palate. —J.C.

90 R Wines 2007 Marquis Philips G.G.Grenache (McLaren Vale); $20.

Rather subdued in fruit on the nose, showingmore vanilla and toast, but this really expands onthe palate, delivering great fruit sweetness andnuance in a harmoniously round, supple package.Finishes long, warm and spicy at 15.5% alcohol.Imported by The Grateful Palate. Editors’Choice. —J.C.

90 Rocland Estate 2008 Grenache(Barossa Valley); $21. Superripe

fruit, befitting a hot year, suggests early consump-tion may be the best option for this supple, lus-cious wine. There’s bits of spicy, leatherycomplexity to go with the intense black cherryfruit. Drink now–2013. Imported by RoclandWine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.

89 D’Arenberg 2007 The DerelictVineyard Grenache (McLaren

Vale); $29. The nose of this wine features somedelicately lifted floral scents, but also darker notesof brandied cherries and asphalt. Give it somebreathing time to let the tarry notes fade andallow the red cherry and cinnamon red-hot fla-vors to emerge. Finishes long, mouthwateringand just a touch warming. Drink now–2014.Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.

88 K i l i k a n o o n 2 0 0 7 P r o d i g a lGrenache (Clare Valley); $30. This

superripe Grenache is supple and mouthfilling,coating the palate with an array of chocolate andcola richness. Some peppery, cinnamon-like aro-mas add a touch of nuance, but overall theimpression is of slipping into an overstuffed chairthat’s comfortable at first but lacks the supportfor a long-term stay. Imported by Old Bridge Cel-lars. —J.C.

88 Yalumba 2006 Hand Picked SingleSite Tri-Centenary Vineyard Vine

Vale Grenache (Barossa); $70. Tri-Cente-nary refers to the fact that these vines have livedin parts of three centuries, being planted prior to1901. The 2006 isn’t the most profoundly com-plex of recent vintages, but instead offers remark-ably pure essences of cherries and berries, alliedto a wonderfully silky texture that makes itawfully easy to drink. Imported by NegociantsUSA, Inc. —J.C.

88 Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2006High Sands Grenache (McLaren

Vale) ; $80. A big, burly, concentratedGrenache, Yangarra’s High Sands bottling seemscapable of evolving nicely over the next 3–5 years,although it is supple enough to drink now. Blackcherry preserves gain structure on the finish inthe form of finely dusty tannins. Imported byYangarra Estate Vineyard. —J.C.

87 Clarendon Hil ls 2007 Hickin-botham Grenache (Clarendon);

$45. The 2007 Hickinbotham features attractive

scents of ground spices, leather and red cherries,but doesn’t seem to have the richness and depthof CH’s other Grenaches this year. Tart cherry-berry fruit fades into finely textured tannins onthe finish. Drink now–2015. Imported by WineBrokers Unlimited. —J.C.

87 D’Arenberg 2008 The CustodianGrenache (McLaren Vale); $19.

Hints at cedar, spice and dark fruit on the nose,then turns unexpectedly tart on the palate. Thetannins are soft, leaving the acidity to provide acounterbalance to the ripe fruit. Drink now.Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.

87 R Wines 2008 Marquis PhilipsGrenache (McLaren Vale); $18. For

all this wine’s ripeness and heat (16% abv), thearomas are surprisingly delicate, offering upstrawberry and raspberry fruit compote. It’s full inbody, with supple tannins, hints of chocolate andtouches of spice and warmth on the finish. Drinknow. Imported by The Grateful Palate. —J.C.

86 R Wines 2008 Bitch Grenache(Barossa); $12. A decent introduction

to Australian Grenache, a bit simple and one-dimensionally cherry-fruited but clean, suppleand easy to drink despite plenty of body, with justa bit of warmth on the finish. Drink now.Imported by The Grateful Palate. —J.C.

GRENACHE BLENDS

92 Grant Burge 2005 The Holy Trinity(Barossa); $46. The blend is 40%

Grenache, 35% Shiraz and 25% Mourvèdre, andthe result is a compelling mix of dark, plummyfruit with brighter hints of raspberry, linimentand dried spices. It’s full bodied and creamy intexture, finishing long and lush with hints of cloveand coffee. While approachable now, this wine’strack record for aging suggests it should evolvethrough at least 2017. Imported by WilsonDaniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C.

90 D’Arenberg 2008 The Cadenzia(McLaren Vale); $29. Cadenzia is the

term coined by McLaren Vale producers todescribe their proprietary blends; this one isroughly equal proportions of Grenache, Shiraz,Mourvèdre and Tempranillo. The result is a dark-fruited wine laden with hints of cola, cedar andspice. Moderately firm in structure, with a long,

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slightly dusty finish; try 2012–2020. Imported byOld Bridge Cellars. —J.C.

90 Gemtree 2007 Cadenzia Grenache-Tempranillo-Shiraz (McLaren

Vale); $20. The twist here is the inclusion ofTempranillo in the blend, resulting in a uniformlydark, plummy wine, amply framed by toasty oak.It’s full bodied and lushly textured on the palate,then firms up and adds some spice on the finish.Drink now–2017. Imported by Guardian of TheGrape Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.

90 Henschke 2007 Johann’s Garden(Barossa); $38. The blend is 63%

Grenache, 19% Mourvèdre and 18% Shiraz, witha hint of green to the otherwise dark, plummmyflavors. It’s supple, silky in texture, ending withtouches of coffee and cedary spice. Drinknow–2015. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc.—J.C.

90 John Duval Wines 2008 Plexus(Barossa Valley); $40. For the past

several years, Duval’s Plexus has been remarkablyconsistent in quality. The only indication herethat 2008 was a difficult vintage (because of theheat) is this wine’s creamy immediacy, which sug-gests early consumption (now–2015). The black-berry fruit is fresh and briary, spiced with hints ofcedar and vanilla; lush and long on the finish.Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.

89 D’Arenberg 2007 The IronstonePressings (McLaren Vale); $65. The

Ironstone Pressings features enough rough edgesat this stage to think it will benefit from a fewyears of cellaring. The tart cherry notes are angu-lar, the tannins a bit chunky, but tea leaf and spicenotes provide ample complexity. Try in 2013.Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.

89 Torbreck 2006 The Steading(Barossa Valley); $35. The 60%

Grenache shows in this wine’s red-berry aromasand flavors, while the 20% Mourvèdre imparts aslightly horsey, leathery note. It’s full-bodied andlushly textured, it just doesn’t seem quite as har-monious at this stage as some earlier vintages.Imported by Torbreck. —J.C.

88 O x f o r d L a n d i n g 2 0 0 7 G S MGrenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre

(South Australia); $8. A remarkable value,Oxford Landing’s GSM is a convincing argumentin favor of blending. It offers a complex mélange

of leather, spice and cherry notes, medium bodyand a fresh, vivacious finish. Considering it canprobably be found for around $80 per case, thiswould make a great everyday wine for drinkingover the next year or so. Imported by NegociantsUSA, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.

88 Schild Estate 2009 Old Bush VineGMS Grenache-Mourvèdre-Shiraz

(Barossa); $15. A soft, cuddly Grenache-based(55%) blend, Schild’s GMS features red berryfruit with modest touches of cocoa and leather.It’s very supple and round, easy to drink on itsown. Probably best now and over the next year orso. Imported by The Australia-New ZealandWine Connection. —J.C.

87 Penfolds 2007 Bin 138 Grenache-Mourvèdre-Shiraz (Barossa Val-

ley); $27. Full bodied and supple almost to thepoint of syrupiness, this interesting blend com-bines hints of green peppercorns with brightcherry fruit. Turns tart, dusty and angular on thefinish, suggesting it may improve with a couple ofyears in the cellar. Drink 2012–2017. Imported byFoster’s Wine Estates Americas. —J.C.

85 Torbreck 2008 Cuvée Juveniles(Barossa Valley); $22. Despite the

presence of Shiraz and Mataro in the blend, thisshows some of Grenache’s shortcomings in itsstraightforward, almost confected red berry aro-mas and flavors. It’s a bold mouthful of fruitthat’s a bit syrupy in texture. Imported byTorbreck. —J.C.

SHIRAZ

90 R Wines 2008 Marquis Philips Shi-raz (McLaren Vale); $18. A notable

value, the 2008 Marquis Philips Shiraz displays aslightly charred top note from its stay in Ameri-can oak, but also a pleasant mix of boysenberry,coffee and vanilla flavors. It’s creamy and supple,wi th a sof t , mocha-t inged f in i sh . Drinknow–2012. Imported by The Grateful Palate.Editors’ Choice. —J.C.

90 R a z o r ’s E d g e 2 0 0 8 S h i r a z -Grenache (McLaren Vale); $12.

Fully ripe and verging on jammy, this 75-25 blendis nonetheless charming, with raspberry fruit cos-seted by lashings of vanilla. It’s round in themouth and exceedingly supple, picking upintriguing dusty spice, cocoa and coffee notes on

the finish. A notable value for drinking over thenext 6–12 months. Imported by American WineDistributors. Best Buy. —J.C.

89 Fetish 2008 Playmates Shiraz -Mouvèdre (Barossa); $22. Leaving

aside the suggestive name and packaging, this is avery soft, almost pillowy-tender 80% Shirazblend, with a fair bit of complexity. It starts withscents of hickory, cedar and vanilla, adds plumand black cherry fruit, then hints at espresso andblack olive on the finish. Drink now. Imported byAmerican Wine Distributors. —J.C.

89 R Wines 2007 Luchador Shiraz(South Australia); $19. Mixed aromas

of vanilla, Christmas spices and brandied blackcherries give an almost dessert-like impression,although the wine is technically dry. The texture iscreamy and luxurious, and the wine is very easy todrink despite its considerable weight, balanced bya tart edge of acid on the finish. Drink now–2012.Imported by The Grateful Palate. —J.C.

87 R Wines 2007 Boarding Pass Shi-raz (South Australia); $20. A bit

spicier than the other R Wines Shirazes, the 2007Boarding Pass features mainly McLaren Valefruit, offering blackberry tinged with coffee andpeppery spice. Turns tart, tangy, almost a bit cit-rusy on the finish. Imported by The GratefulPalate. —J.C.

86 R Wines 2007 Strong Arms Shiraz(South Australia); $11. On the red-

der, crisper side of the Shiraz spectrum, with gen-tle touches of spice and vanilla to accent theraspberry fruit. It’s medium bodied and reason-ably long on the finish. Drink now. Imported byThe Grateful Palate. Best Buy. —J.C.

OTHER RED WINES

89 Kilikanoon 2008 Killerman’s RunShiraz-Grenache (Australia); $20.

A blend of two-thirds Shiraz, one-third Grenache,Kilikanoon’s entry-level blend is a soft, easygoingcombination of blackberries, cola, brown sugarand cinnamon. Drink it over the next year or two.Imported by Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.

88 D’Arenberg 2008 d’Arrys OriginalShiraz-Grenache (McLaren Vale);

$19. Probably because of its youth, this winecomes out of the chute a little tight and rubbery;

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try giving it a quick decanting, or swirl it aggres-sively in the glass to bring out the underlying colaand blackberry aromas and flavors. Turns slightlydusty on the finish, suggesting at least a few years’worth of drinkability. Imported by Old BridgeCellars. —J.C.

87 R Wines 2008 Darby & Joan Caber-net Sauvignon (South Australia);

$12. Like the D&J Chardonnay, this is a readilyapproachable, easy-drinking wine with good vari-etal character. Cassis fruit dominates, accented byslightly herbal notes suggestive of mint. The tan-nins are supple, adding an appropriately dustyedge to the finish. Drink now–2012. Imported byThe Grateful Palate. Best Buy. —J.C.

OTHER WINES

87 R Wines 2008 Darby & JoanChardonnay (South Australia);

$12. After eight months on lees, this unoakedChardonnay has picked up some mildly nutty,custardy qualities that give added heft andnuance to its pear, pineapple and melon fruit.Drink it over the next six months or so. Importedby The Grateful Palate. Best Buy. —J.C.

84 R Wines NV Bitch Bubbly (SouthAustralia); $13. A carbonated pink

blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this is asweet, fruity wine that packs more punch thanBracchetto d’Acqui but is otherwise similar. It’svery fragrant and loaded with strawberries andraspberries. Imported by The Grateful Palate.—J.C.

URUGUAYRED WINES

87 Gimenez Mendez 2008 IdentityCabernet Sauvignon (Canelones);

$15. The best wine from this bodega. It’s focusedand spicy, with black fruit and depth to the noseand none of the weird, rubbery, roasted charac-teristics that are sometimes found in Uruguayanwines. Round on the palate, with black cherryand cassis. A good option for grilled meats.Imported by Mallams Select Wines LLC. —M.S.

85 Gimenez Mendez 2007 IdentityRed Blend (Canelones); $20. Dark,

roasted and smelling of licorice, root beer, savory

oak and smoke. The palate is hard and saturated,with smack-down tannins that are surely due tothe 46% Tannat in the blend. Syrah and Petit Ver-dot are the remaining elements in this roasted,sweet, oaky wine that finishes with burnt marsh-mallow. Imported by Mallams Select Wines LLC.—M.S.

83 Bodegas Carrau 2007 Reserva Tan-nat (Uruguay); $10. Soupy and baked

on the nose, and not that firm or focused. Thepalate is on the heavy side, with clipped, roastedplum flavors. Rustic and damp, and not doing alot to push the envelope for Uruguay. Importedby Mallams Select Wines LLC. —M.S.

80 Gimenez Mendez 2009 IdentityTannat Rosé (Canelones); $15. Not

very lively or fruity. Vague aromas and flavors ofnectarine and citrus are sticky, grabby and bland.Not a good rosé by any measuring stick. Importedby Mallams Select Wines LLC. —M.S.

AUSTRIAGRÜNER VELTLINER

96 F X Pichler 2008 M Grüner Velt-liner Smaragd (Wachau); $NA. M

stands for Monumental as in powerful, impres-sive. This ripe, sweet Grüner is certainly that, alate-harvest wine of impeccable purity. Figs,mango and intense spice give an exotic feel to thisopulent wine. It is beautifully layered, peelingback wonderful flavors. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.

96 F X Pichler 2008 DürnsteinerKel lerberg Grüner Velt l iner

Smaragd (Wachau); $NA. An evocative spiceand caramel aroma combine with ripe yellowpeach. To taste, the peach comes throughstrongly, while the fabulous taut structure keepsthe wine tightly wound with acidity and mineral-ity. The final taste is just off dry. Imported byWeygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

96 Rudi Pichler 2008 WösendorferKollmutz Reserve Grüner Veltliner

(Wachau); $97. This is the third vintage ofRudi Pichler’s Reserve from the Kollmutz Vine-yard. It shows an extra richness over the alreadyconcentrated Smaragd, a powerhouse of inten-sity, spice, mango, oregano and lemon verbenacrispness. The balance is already there, now the

wine needs to mature. Imported by Winebow.Cellar Selection. —R.V.

95 Prager 2009 Achleiten StockkulturG r ü n e r Ve l t l i n e r S m a r a g d

(Wachau); $69. A parcel of old vines in theAchleiten Vineyard is trained on individual postsrather than wires. Somehow this brings out enor-mous minerality, the steely feel to the wine sug-gesting long aging. Imported by Winebow. CellarSelection. —R.V.

95 Rudi Pichler 2008 WösendorferH o c h r a i n G r ü n e r Ve l t l i n e r

Smaragd (Wachau); $81. Stunningly beauti-ful wine, its pure fruit driven by its mineral andspice texture. This is impressive Grüner, tasting ofthe hard rocks and heat of the Wachau whilekeeping bright yellow and apple flavors. Age for4–5 years or more. Imported by Winebow. —R.V.

94 F X Pichler 2008 Loibner BergG r ü n e r Ve l t l i n e r S m a r a g d

(Wachau); $NA. Pepper and minerality domi-nate this elegant wine. It is still extraordinarilyyoung, its structure more important than thebeautiful green and white fruit flavors, crispenedby pineapple acidity. It will age for many years.Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.

94 Prager 2009 Achleiten GrünerVeltliner Smaragd (Wachau); $60.

Full in the mouth, packed with spice along withtight acidity, white fruit juice and a lively edge ofacidity. This is an impressively rich wine that pre-serves the tension of Wachau Grüner. Importedby Winebow. —R.V.

94 Rudi Pichler 2008 WösendorferH o c h r a i n G r ü n e r Ve l t l i n e r

Smaragd (Wachau); $81. Very concentratedwine, as much in freshness as richness. So thebalance is just right, green fruit acidity allied toripe yellow fruits, mango and complex spices. Agefor 4–5 years. Imported by Winebow. —R.V.

94 Rudi Pichler 2008 WösendorferK o l l m u t z G r ü n e r Ve l t l i n e r

Smaragd (Wachau); $60. Smooth wine, itssmoky aromas leading to a ripe texture of spicedpeach, baked apples and a fresh asparagus inten-sity. The wine has weight without any loss offreshness. Age for 4–5 years. Imported byWinebow. —R.V.

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93 Alzinger 2008 Steinertal GrünerVeltliner Smaragd (Wachau); $59.

A brilliant, fresh wine, beautifully integrated,bringing together green apple, papaya andintense acidity. The texture has spice, nutmeg andginger to go with the taut minerality. A wine foraging. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V.

93 Nigl 2008 Grüner Veltliner Trock-enbeerenauslese (Niederösterre-

ich); $43. A wonderful viscous texture underliesa wine that is beautifully balanced betweensweetness and crispness. The honeyed flavors gowith ripe yellow nectarines and the wine glidesaround the mouth. Delicious now, but it willsurely age. Screwcap. Imported by MichaelSkurnik Wines. —R.V.

93 Prager 2009 Wachstum Boden-stein Grüner Veltliner Smaragd

(Wachau); $60. From vineyards at 1500 feet,this has a cool mountain feel to it. The minerality,flint and acidity are major elements in this won-derfully crisp-textured wine, spiced with pepperand salt. Imported by Winebow. —R.V.

93 Rainer Wess 2009 LoibenbergGrüner Veltliner (Wachau); $35.

Powerful, creamy wine with intense spice, quinceand lychee flavors, the acidity coming slowlythrough but never very apparent. Richness, con-centration, with aging potenial. Imported by Rus-sell Herman Selection. —R.V.

93 Schmelz 2008 Höhereck GrünerVeltliner Smaragd (Wachau); $48.

Brilliant, fresh wine, crisp and showing rich fruitthat bursts out of the glass. It has fresh-cut grassaromas, green fruits, a hint of pepper and thebrightest acidity. Imported by Blue Danube WineCo. —R.V.

93 Schmelz 2008 Pichl Point GrünerVeltliner Smaragd (Wachau); $44.

Rounded, creamy style, flavors of spice, pearjuice, green herbs and uplifting acidity. There is ataut mineral structure that gives the wine bitealong with final acidity. Imported by BlueDanube Wine Co. —R.V.

92 Nigl 2009 Alte Reben Grüner Velt-liner (Kremstal); $32. An aroma that

is as much light citrus as richer fruit sets thescene for this tight, mineral-driven wine. It hasripe, concentrated fruit, with definite acidity.

Give it three years for the taut structure tobroaden out. Screwcap. Imported by MichaelSkurnik Wines. —R.V.

92 Nikolaihof 2008 Im WeingebirgeG r ü n e r Ve l t l i n e r S m a r a g d

(Wachau); $59. A beautiful wine that managesto have a great panoply of rich fruits and spicesalong with pure green apple acidity. It is intense,but so balanced and poised. Imported by MichaelSkurnik Wines. —R.V.

92 Rainer Wess 2009 PfaffenbergReserve Grüner Veltliner (Krem-

stal); $35. Full, ripe wine, given great freshnessfrom its green fruit flavors. It is textured, with afine edginess followed by a light layer of acidity.The aftertaste is mineral, austere. Imported byRussell Herman Selection. —R.V.

91 Felsner 2009 Alte Reben Rohren-dorfer Leithen Reserve Grüner

Veltliner (Kremstal); $23. Big and rich, veryconcentrated wine. It packs smooth pear, quinceand green plum fruits along with a touch of spice.The acidity fits well in this delicious wine.Imported by Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.

91 Pichler-Krutzler 2008 DürnsteinerS u p p e r l i n G r ü n e r Ve l t l i n e r

(Wachau); $31. Powerful, cream-texturedwine, with a dry core of spice and tight mineralacidity. It has pear and baked apple flavors, withdried apricot richness. An intense finish.Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.

90 Domäne Wachau 2009 AchleitenG r ü n e r Ve l t l i n e r S m a r a g d

(Wachau); $38. Intensely flavored wine,packed with both spice and acidity. The fruit is anextension of the fresh face of the wine that con-trasts with weight and concentrated pepper andnutmeg flavors. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V.

90 Nigl 2009 Senftenberger PellingenPrivat Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal);

$43. Despite its richness, this is so fresh, theacidity a delicious counterpoint to the roundedfruits. Soft spice and layers of pear juice give extracomplexity. Screwcap. Imported by MichaelSkurnik Wines. —R.V.

89 Domäne Wachau 2009 TerrassenG r ü n e r Ve l t l i n e r S m a r a g d

(Wachau); $26. While it has a rounded, richtexture, the wine also has just the right amount of

freshness, allied to a pinch of spice. Yellow fruits,sprinkled with pepper, are given a firm lift ofacidity. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V.

89 Nigl 2009 Senftenberger PiriGrüner Veltliner (Kremstal); $25.

This bright wine bursts with crisp acidity as wellas layered pear and apple fruits. It is already adelicious wine, its vivid texture a foil to the edgeof spice. Screwcap. Imported by Michael SkurnikWines. —R.V.

89 Pichler-Krutzler 2008 LoibnerKlostersatz Grüner Veltl iner

(Wachau); $17. On the fresh side, with somerich texture, this is a finely balanced wine.Smooth flavors of pear, mango and ginger go withgrapefruit acidity. Imported by Weygandt-Met-zler. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

88 Felsner 2009 Gedersdorfer Moos-burgerin Grüner Veltliner (Krem-

stal); $15. A broad, rich wine with spice, pepperand a fine, fresh acidity. This is ripe, retaining agood balance. Screwcap. Imported by GrapeExpectations (CA). —R.V.

87 Domäne Wachau 2009 TerrassenGrüner Ve l t l iner Federsp ie l

(Wachau); $16. Typical light and fresh Grüner,with an attractive burst of lemon acidity as well asa creamy texture. Delicious, crisp wine. Screw-cap. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V.

85 Markus Huber 2008 Hugo GrünerVeltliner (Niederösterreich); $NA.

Fresh lime and lemon aromas lead into a soft andcreamy wine, with just a hint of spice and lychee.Final grapefruit acidity renders the wine as crispas possible. Drink now. Screwcap. Imported byBoutique Wine Collection. —R.V.

RIESLING

96 Prager 2009 Wachstum Boden-stein Riesling Smaragd (Wachau);

$70. A lovely wine. Ripe Riesling held undertension, its coiled white fruits creating thecrispest citrus character. The wine is just settlingout on a long development, its steely edge andintense acidity promising many years. Importedby Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

95 F X Pichler 2008 Loibner Berg Ries-ling Smaragd (Wachau); $NA. A

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rich, smooth wine, creamy-textured yet withpoints of fresh zest, green plums and spiced apri-cots. This is a beautifully balanced wine, just atouch of honey showing with a lively freshness.The finish just lasts forever. Imported by Wey-gandt-Metzler. —R.V.

95 Prager 2009 Achleiten RieslingSmaragd (Wachau); $65. Ripe

peaches and mango fruit join a crisp layer ofgrapefruit freshness. A delicately balanced Ries-ling that shows just an edge of sweetness alongwith a vibrant mineral texture. Like all Pragerwines, this needs aging. Imported by Winebow.—R.V.

94 Alzinger 2008 Steinertal RieslingSmaragd (Wachau); $62. So steely

and mineral-driven, this is an intensely crispwine, with concentrated fresh apple flavors over atexture that shows pear skins and orange zest.Acidity and spice combine on the finish.Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.

94 F X Pichler 2008 Loibner SteinertalRiesling Smaragd (Wachau); $NA.

Taut wine, walking on a knife edge of crisp acid-ity, bright fruit and a complex structure thatcomes from the stone of the vineyard and steelyRiesling character. The wine is freshened by tan-gerine zest and hints of currants. Age for manyyears. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V.

94 Nikolaihof 2008 Vom Stein Ries-ling Smaragd (Wachau); $62. Like

many Nikolaihof wines, this one needs aging. It isbeautifully textured, very perfumed with whitecurrants and wildflower flavors followed bybright, steely acidity. Give this at least five years.Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. CellarSelection. —R.V.

94 Prager 2009 K laus R ie s l ingSmaragd (Wachau); $77. On the soft

side, with some residual sugar, this is initially agentle Riesling. Slowly it reveals its minerality,which pushes into the juicy peach and apricot fla-vors and brings its own salt and flint texture. It isso elegant yet so powerful . Imported byWinebow. —R.V.

94 Rainer Wess 2009 Reserve Riesling(Wachau); $49. Intense concentration,

the wine powers across the palate, its texturepacked with broad white and yellow fruit flavorsas well as beautiful acidity. Age for 3–4 years.

Imported by Russell Herman Selection. CellarSelection. —R.V.

94 Schmelz 2008 Dürnsteiner FreiheitRiesling Smaragd (Wachau); $56.

Crisp, steely, deliciously perfumed wine. It showsa tight mineral character balanced by the freshwhite currant and grapefruit flavors. The acidityand structure are important, promising goodaging. Imported by Blue Danube Wine Co. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V.

93 Josef Jamek 2008 Ried Klaus Ries-ling Smaragd (Wachau); $NA. Per-

fumed, sweet aromas, but the palate is bone dry.The wine is tight, with a vibrant acidity, citrus,white currants and peach. A steely wine thatneeds a few years to really blossom. —R.V.

93 Nigl 2009 Senftenberger PellingenPrivat Riesling (Kremstal); $56.

Powerful, rich Riesling, its natural acidityrounded out with ripe white fruit flavors, a touchof vanilla and spice as well as pure crisp steeli-ness. A wine for aging over 6–7 years. Screwcap.Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. CellarSelection. —R.V.

93 Rainer Wess 2009 PfaffenbergReserve Riesling (Kremstal); $35.

Elegantly perfumed wine, its steely aciditysheathed in bright white currant and green applecrispness. This is an infant, needing many years todevelop, although it is already beautifully bal-anced. Imported by Russell Herman Selection.Cellar Selection. —R.V.

92 Domäne Wachau 2009 Singer-riedel Riesling Smaragd (Wachau);

$46. Singerriedel is at the western end of theWachau; it’s normally relatively cool, although notin 2009 as shown by this delicious, rich wine. Thefruit is bright and lively, the only hint of richnessbeing the spicy edge to the final flavor. Importedby Vin Divino. —R.V.

92 Domäne Wachau 2009 KellerbergRiesling Trockenbeerenauslese

(Wachau); $60. Classic honey and lemon fla-vors are so fresh despite the liquorous texturethat this is like drinking an elixir. The botrytis dry-ness is still developing and now the wine showsthe most wonderful primary fruit flavor. Importedby Vin Divino. —R.V.

92 Rainer Wess 2009 Riesling Trock-enbeerenauslese (Wachau); $42.

The balance between rich sweetness and thepurest acidity is on a tightrope, with honeypierced by crisp citrus and peach flavors. A fineand pure summation of the beauty of botrytisedRiesling. Imported by Russell Herman Selection.—R.V.

92 Rudi Pichler 2008 WeissenkirchenAchleiten Riesling Federspiel

(Wachau); $43. This is great Federspiel, thelightest and freshest style from the Wachau. Ithas a bone-dry steel line that cuts through thecrisp green fruits and pure apple juice vivacity. Itcould be aged, but is delicious now. Imported byWinebow. —R.V.

91 Domäne Wachau 2009 AchleitenRiesling Smaragd (Wachau); $46.

A rich style of wine, with a smooth and velvet tex-ture that brings out a creamy character. There isfreshness from green apple and peach juice fla-vors, the acidity a great counterpoint to the ripefruits. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V.

91 Nikolaihof 2006 SteinerhundReserve Riesling (Wachau); $76.

Broadening out into a sophisticated wine, this hasspices, almonds and generous acidity to go withpure apples and a lovely, elegant texture.Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.

91 Rudi Pichler 2008 WösendorferKi rchweg R ies l ing Smaragd

(Wachau); $69. Pineapple and orange zest startthis compelling wine. It has great tight acidity, ascrisp as possible, with a yellow mineral structurethat has extreme youth. Imported by Winebow.—R.V.

90 Nigl 2009 Hochäcker Riesling(Kremstal); $52. Riesling at 14% alco-

hol is almost too much, although Martin Nigl justgets away with it, the fresh element giving bal-ance to the super ripeness. This is a sipping wine,too intensely perfumed for food. Screwcap.Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.

90 Nikolaihof 1999 Steinriesler Ries-ling (Wachau); $70. One of the

library releases from Nikolaihof, this has becomea light, elegant wine that walks a tightropebetween freshness and mature smoke and toastflavors. Smooth almonds and spiced apples are

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beautifully ready to drink. Imported by MichaelSkurnik Wines. —R.V.

90 Pichler-Krutzler 2008 DürnsteinerIn der Wand Riesling (Wachau);

$23. Richness goes with a wonderful light touchin this bright and fresh wine. It has baked apple,nutmeg flavors and smooth creamy texture, whileacidity offers balanced freshness. A delicioussteely aftertaste. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.—R.V.

90 Rainer Wess 2009 LoibenbergRiesling (Wachau); $35. Fresh min-

eral- and steel-textured wine, with hints of crispwhite peach and an intense citric component.The aftertaste is deliciously fresh. Imported byRussell Herman Selection. —R.V.

90 Tegernseerhof 2008 LoibenbergRiesling (Wachau); $NA. Flint and

summer hedgerow perfumes give a great intro-duction to this tightly crisp wine. White nectarinejuice shows a light richness. The wine has slicedapple acidity, juicy fruit, the freshest aftertaste.Screwcap. Imported by KW Selection. —R.V.

89 Domäne Wachau 2009 TerrassenRiesling Smaragd (Wachau); $28.

A broad as well as crisp wine that has great fresh,beautifully polished ripe pear fruit, lightly nuttyin character. Imported by Vin Divino. —R.V.

89 F e l s n e r 2 0 0 9 R o h re n d o r f e rGebling Riesling (Kremstal); $23.

Very mineral in character, this is an elegant andcrisp wine. The perfumes are a vivid balance tothe fresh green fruits, with a light layer of acidity.Screwcap. Imported by Grape Expectations(CA). —R.V.

88 Domäne Wachau 2009 TerrassenRiesling Federspiel (Wachau); $19.

Attractive creamed apple aromas lead to a vividlyfresh wine, packed with bright fruits, with a cool,steely edge. Delicious, crisp wine. Screwcap.Imported by Vin Divino. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

OTHER WHITE WINES

93 Rudi Pichler 2008 WösendorferK o l l m u t z W e i s s b u r g u n d e r

Smaragd (Wachau); $43. Weissburgunder(Pinot Blanc) is rare in the Wachau. In the handsof Rudi Pichler, you find a wine that tastes of the

apricots for which the Wachau is also famous.This is delicious wine, rounded and ripe, packedwith luscious fruit and acidity. Imported byWinebow. —R.V.

93 Tegernseerhof 2008 Weissenkirch-ner Zwerithaler (Wachau); $35. The

first release of this field blend from the Zwerithalervineyard. It gives spice, smooth acidity, fashionedby an explosion of pineapple, tarragon and orangezest, all giving delicious freshness. Age for fiveyears or more. Screwcap. Imported by KW Selec-tion. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

ALSACEGEWÜRZTRAMINER

94 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Gueberschwihr Goldert Grand Cru

Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $84. The Zind-Humbrecht Goldert has everything you have aright to expect from the exotic Gewürztraminergrape: it’s packed with loads of Asian spices, driedfruit and honey flavor and it offers up intensescents of lychee and pear that jump right out ofthe glass. An exceptional level of concentrationallows this wine to carry its 15% alcohol, thoughthe finish is a bit warm. Try with Thai fare.Imported by The Sorting Table. Editors’Choice. —J.R.

93 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007H u n a w i h r C l o s W i n d s b u h l

Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $96. The ClosWindsbuhl Gewürztraminer is a noticeably sweetwine with a decadent texture and penetratingnotes of caramel, lychee and poached apricots.The palate is intense and concentrated, framedby flavors of candied apple and Indian spiceswhile a finish of white pepper and honey seemsto go on and on. Serve with foie gras for a trans-porting experience. Imported by The SortingTable. —J.R.

93 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007H e r r e n w e g D e Tu r c k h e i m

Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $55. Decadentlyrich and slightly alcoholic, this is a wine for amoment of self-indulgence. There’s loads of spicyintensity and a smoky undertone that creates asense of mystery plus a lush finish of crushedflowers and quince paste that caps off the impres-sion of intrigue. Try with cured meats. Importedby The Sorting Table. —J.R.

93 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru

Rangen De Thann Gewürztraminer(Alsace); $116. Exotic and opulent, with Kash-miri spices and mango upfront, sliding into apalate of white pepper and peach shot throughwith mineral notes while the medium, honey-inflected finish is cut short by the high alcohol.There’s a good bit of residual sugar here, bringingsushi and other Asian fare to mind. Imported byThe Sorting Table. —J.R.

92 Domaines Schlumberger 2007Cuvée Anne Sélection des Grains

Nobles Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $82.While most varietal character is gone, this winedoes show an explosion of ripe, honeyed sweet-ness, with a rich, liquorous texture. There is spice,bergamot, dried apricot in a smooth and opulentcoating. Imported by Maisons Marques &Domaines USA. —R.V.

91 Château d’Orschwihr 2008 Bollen-berg Gewürztraminer (Alsace);

$20. Sweet and perfumed, but with a sense ofproportion despite its alcohol. It has fine ripefruits, star fruit and mango prominent, while theacidity keeps the exuberance in check. The finalflavor brings in fresh white fruits. For aging 4–5years. Imported by Fine Vines. —R.V.

91 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Gueberschwihr Gewürztraminer

(Alsace); $48. Pretty and delicately spicy, withnotes of dried fruit and Asian pear. There’s a coreof bright acidity here, noticeable despite the highlevel of residual sugar, that makes for a refreshingfinish. A great choice for Dim Sum. Imported byThe Sorting Table. —J.R.

91 Domaines Schlumberger 2007Cuvée Christine Vendanges Tar-

dives Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $73. Rich,sweet, flowery and deliciously blowsy, with spice,ginger, lychees and melons. The wine is a power-house of richness, the acidity a sideshow. Readyto drink now. Imported by Maisons Marques &Domaines USA. —R.V.

91 Gustave Lorentz 2006 Altenbergde Bergheim Grand Cru Vieilles

Vignes Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $50.Perfumed wine, sweet, exuding superripe fruits,lychee and mango with yellow nectarine acidity.The wine is very rich, a potpourri of exotic flavors

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and final spice. Imported by QuintessentialWines. —R.V.

90 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Turckheim Heimbourg Gewürz-

traminer (Alsace); $65. An understatedchoice for those who wish Gewürztraminer werea more subtle wine. The nose is a bit shy with adelicate floral tone, though the palate has goodflavor intensity with punchy notes of Chinesespices and honeycomb resting on a texture that islazy, soft and a bit sweet. Try on its own after din-ner. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R.

90 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Turckhe im Gewürzt raminer

(Alsace); $48. A good value in the world ofZind-Humbrecht wines, this off-dry Gewürz-traminer is super-concentrated, with a silky tex-ture and flavors of lychees and cling peaches. Anice white cherry accent kicks in on the mediumfinish. Try with Thai fare. Imported by The Sort-ing Table. —J.R.

89 Domaine Eugène Meyer 2008Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $22. Bio-

dynamic since 1969, François Meyer’s wines showgreat purity of fruit. This Gewürztraminer hasbalanced spice, mango and lychee flavor, struc-tured into shape by a good touch of pear juiceacidity. Imported by Chartrand Imports. —R.V.

89 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Wintzenheim Hengst Grand Cru

Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $110. This isundeniably a concentrated wine offering a com-plex set of very appealing aromas and flavors(singed grapefruit peel, honey, caramel). How-ever, it is a bit out of balance at 15.5% alcoholand finishes shorter than one has a right to expectin this triple-digit price range. It’s starting to showsome development and will probably notimprove, so best to drink up soon. Imported byThe Sorting Table. —J.R.

88 Helfrich 2007 Steinklotz GrandCru Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $25.

Exotic perfumes and fruits dominate this wine.Its flavors are all about perfumes, a texture thatonly hints at minerality. No question about thevariety here. Imported by Underdog Wine Mer-chants. —R.V.

87 Domaine Specht 2008 Gewürz-traminer (Alsace); $17. A broad

swathe of lychee gives the wine a perfumed send-

off. It is ripe, full in the mouth, with melon, whitechocolate and a good amount of acidity. Importedby Global Quality Import. —R.V.

87 Hugel 2008 Gewürztraminer(Alsace); $24. A great representative of

its type, the Hugel 2008 Gewürztraminer is ele-gant and fresh, with scents of carnations and rosepetals on the nose followed by peach and spicecake in the mouth. A finish of hothouse flowersgives this a touch of class. Drink now. Imported byFrederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —J.R.

87 Jean-Baptiste Adam 2007 Kaeffer-kopf Vielles Vignes Grand Cru

Gewürztraminer (Alsace); $55. An attrac-tive package, with an opening act of smoked teaand exotic nuts followed by an off-dry palate ofcinnamon and clove. The finish is fairly long andnicely accented with tropical fruit though it turnsjust a touch bitter at the end. Drink now.Imported by Winebow. —J.R.

86 Cave de Beblenheim 2009 Barond e H o e n G e w ü r z t r a m i n e r

(Alsace); $15. The spice is soft, giving the winea dry edge of pepper and ginger cookies. Theacidity shows enough to give the wine some crisp-ness. Screwcap. Imported by The Other Wine &Spirits. —R.V.

85 Helfrich 2009 Gewürztraminer(Alsace); $15. Classic spice and lychee

aromas lead to a wine that is medium sweet,attractive but one-dimensional. It has perfumed,candy shop flavors, almost exaggerated. Screwcap.Imported by Underdog Wine Merchants. —R.V.

PINOT BLANC

88 Domaine Zinck 2009 Pinot Blanc(Alsace); $13. Congratulations to the

Zincks on their back label with graphic details(rare in Alsace) of the sweetness of this smoothbut dry Pinot Blanc. The wine has creamed appleand almond flavors and attractive acidity. Screw-cap. Imported by HB Wine Merchants. BestBuy. —R.V.

87 Château d’Orschwihr 2009 Bollen-berg Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $15.

Light, fresh and easy wine, with pear and greenapple fruit and a deft, soft texture. Totally readyto drink. Imported by Fine Vines. —R.V.

87 Domaine Eugène Meyer 2008Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $17. With its

slight vanilla aroma, this is a broad style, with ripeacidity, a fresh green fruit character, rounded bythe toast edge. There is a good final crisp texture.Imported by Chartrand Imports. —R.V.

87 Domaine Specht 2008 Pinot Blanc(Alsace); $14. Bright fruit freshness

dominates this wine. The fruit is pure, vivid. lightand crisp. The acidity is important here, drivingthe wine in a mineral direction. Imported byGlobal Quality Import. —R.V.

87 Domaines Schlumberger 2008 LesP r i n c e s A b b é s P i n o t B l a n c

(Alsace); $15. Rounded and soft, with an attrac-tive bite of fruit skin texture and lively fresh acid-ity. There is a touch of final minerality. Importedby Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.

85 Cave de Beblenheim 2009 Baronde Hoen Pinot Blanc (Alsace); $12.

Light, soft and fresh, an easy-drinking PinotBlanc, with pear and fresh apricot flavors. A greatapéritif style, ready to drink. Screwcap. Importedby The Other Wine & Spirits. —R.V.

PINOT GRIS

93 Domaines Schlumberger 2006Kessler Grand Cru Pinot Gris

(Alsace); $24. Rich and sweet, very soft in tex-ture, a wine that is beautifully ripe and broad. Ithas a dry core of toast, pepper, with raisins and afinal hint of acidity. Imported by Maisons Mar-ques & Domaines USA. —R.V.

92 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Wintzenheim Rotenberg Pinot

Gris (Alsace); $64. There’s great mineralexpression here, with aromas of wet slate under-pinning top notes of nectarine and orange peel.In the mouth, the wine is intense and viscouswith Thai spices and stone fruit that carry over tothe long finish. Serious palate length enhancesthe weightiness and definition of this wine. Drinknow or hold several years for even more complex-ity. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R.

92 Domaines Schlumberger 2007 Kit-terlé Grand Cru Le Brise Mollets

Pinot Gris (Alsace); $46. Sweet and rich wine,preserving some exciting acidity. That makes thecurrant and fig flavors well in balance with a

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smoky character, touched by toast. A very elegantwine that also projects concentration. Importedby Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.

91 C h â t e a u d ’ O r s c h w i h r 2 0 0 8Zinnkoepfle Grand Cru Pinot Gris

(Alsace); $NA. With its pale gold color, this isobviously a sweet wine. Raisins, bold acidity andspiced mango blend well together in a wine thatis maturing well. It is good to drink now, butworth aging. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

91 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Vielles Vignes Pinot Gris (Alsace);

$58. An opulent, hedonistic wine, with an exoti-cally perfumed nose of singed orange peel, cloveand garam masala. The palate is intense andnoticeably sweet but saved from being cloying bya core of fresh acidity. Try with a duck liver ter-rine. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R.

89 Gustave Lorentz 2005 Altenbergde Bergheim Grand Cru Pinot Gris

(Alsace); $50. Sweet, rich wine, powerful ripepear and melon flavors spiced with ginger and anopulent full texture. The wine lets its perfumedcharacter get away with itself, but it’s exuberantfor a moment. Imported by Quintessential Wines.—R.V.

88 Domaine Specht 2008 Pinot Gris(Alsace); $15. Broad and ripe fruit,

hinting at spice. There is weight, pear and peachflavors balanced by a good element of acidity. Thefinal flavors continue the broad texture. Importedby Global Quality Import. —R.V.

88 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Turckheim Heimbourg Pinot Gris

(Alsace); $64. This is a starkly mineral wine, withstraightforward apple aromas followed by a crisp,bright palate infused with notes of beer nuts. Fin-ishes light and dry, with a final accent of lemonpeel. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R.

88 Domaines Schlumberger 2008 LesPrinces Abbés Pinot Gris (Alsace);

$20. Soft-textured wine, open to spiced pear andapricots with kiwi fruit acidity. It takes a whilebefore the bite of pepper and the richness comethrough. There is weight and intensity on the fin-ish. Imported by Maisons Marques & DomainesUSA. —R.V.

88 Helfrich 2008 Steinklotz GrandCru Pinot Gris (Alsace); $25. Smoky,

dried fruit-flavored wine. There is some sweet-ness, its ripe currant flavors boosted by a broadtexture and some spice. The acidity seems to bemissing. Imported by Underdog Wine Mer-chants. —R.V.

88 Marc Kreydenweiss 2007 Le MoineMœnchberg Grand Cru Pinot Gris

(Alsace); $55. A quirky wine, but largely suc-cessful, with upfront tones of clove-spiced orangepeel and baking bread followed by dried fruitnotes in the mouth. The long finish is on the sweetside and winds down to a note of Asian candy.Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.R.

87 Gustave Lorentz 2007 SchofwegPinot Gris (Alsace); $30. Rich, spicy

wine, layers of pepper and soft fruits. The flavorsshow smoky peach and pear, with some weightbehind the texture. It finishes well with a lightlayer of acidity. Imported by QuintessentialWines. —R.V.

87 Marc Kreydenweiss 2007 AuxVignes Clos Rebberg Pinot Gris

(Alsace); $51. A very oxidative style, withunusual, though intense, flavors of straw and com-post intermingled with poached pear and wetstones. The high quality of the raw material comesthrough on the long, caramel-apple finish. Drinknow. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.R.

86 Helfrich 2008 Pinot Gris (Alsace);$15. Soft wine, light in texture, some

spice and tropical fruits. There is freshness, wellintegrated into an attractive, ready-to-drink wine.Screwcap. Imported by Underdog Wine Mer-chants. —R.V.

83 Domaine Specht 2007 Pinot Gris(Alsace); $15. Soft and flat in texture

with a toffee character and a touch of spice. Ittastes old before its time. Imported by GlobalQuality Import. —R.V.

RIESLING

95 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Wintzenheim Clos Häuserer Ries-

ling (Alsace); $60. An astounding wine, the2007 Zind Humbrecht Clos Häuserer Rieslingopens with a tightly wound bouquet of petrol,gardenias and lemon skin while the dry palate ispacked with dense dried fruit and pear flavor.Long, long gardenia-scented finish. Despite all

the concentration, it’s quite light on its feet andwould pair well with Japanese cuisine. Can bedrunk now (decanting recommended) but willshow its best after five-plus years in the cellar.Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R.

95 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Turckheim Brand Vielles Vignes

Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace); $106. A realstunner; a full-bodied, ripe, luxurious expressionof Riesling. There’s opulent fruit here and sweet-ness but the impression in the mouth is dry andsteely due to a laser-like undercurrent of acidity.Flavors run to petroleum and candied lemonpeel, brightened up by a light cinnamon note.Long, long, long finish of applejack, butter andcream. Will benefit from decanting. Drinkingwell now but will improve over the next 10-plusyears. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R.

94 Domaines Schlumberger 2007Kess le r Grand C ru R ie s l ing

(Alsace); $36. With a few years’ aging, this isbeginning to show its almond and toast side. Thefresh acidity is now melding beautifully into asoft, ripe texture with layers of spice and acidity.Certainly worth aging further. Imported byMaisons Marques & Domaines USA. CellarSelection. —R.V.

92 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Herrenweg De Turckheim Riesling

(Alsace); $50. Like an explosion in a flowershop, this exuberant white offers up harmoniousscents of gardenias, carnations and white rosesalongside lower tones of petrol and slate. It’sintense, flavorful and starting to show somedevelopment. Try with classic French fish prepa-rations. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R.

92 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Turckheim Brand Grand Cru Ries-

ling (Alsace); $92. Within the world of Zind-Humbrecht Grands Crus, this is a drier exampleand the laser-like acidity in this Riesling will prob-ably convince most drinkers that there isn’t a dropof residual sugar left. Meanwhile, aromas ofgrapefruit and lime will keep the nose enter-tained while a lingering finish of bruised appleand dried fruit leaves an exotic impression.Drinking well now but will improve over five-plusyears. Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R.

91 Château d’Orschwihr 2001 KesslerGrand Cru Vendanges Tardives

Riesling (Alsace); $NA. Just assuming the

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wonderful flavors of mature Riesling, this winestill has hints of fresh white currants. The toastand smoke flavors are more dominant, with a coreof minerality and acidity. Rich, rather than sweet.—R.V.

91 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Turckheim Heimbourg Riesling

(Alsace); $60. Classic in its approach, thisslightly off-dry Riesling opens with petrol and cit-rus peel notes that give way to mouth-coating fla-vors of peach and apricot while the lemony finishgoes on and on. Drinking well now but will gaindepth and complexity over the next five years.Imported by The Sorting Table. —J.R.

91 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Hunawihr Clos Windsbuhl Ries-

ling (Alsace); $92. Complex and steely, this is awine with a lot of energy and a solid core of acid-ity that carries flavors of white cherries and limefrom the attack all the way through to a dry, lin-gering finish. Has solid length and definition. Letthis one mellow a few years. Imported by TheSorting Table. —J.R.

91 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2007Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru

Rangen De Thann Riesling (Alsace); $110.Seriously crisp, this is a wine for acid freaks; don’teven think about serving it as an apéritif. How-ever, with the right dish (think flavorful fish in acream sauce), some real magic could happen.The austerity of the palate is softened a bit byeasy-to-like flavors of toast, spice and citrus thatfollow through to the long finish. Give this one afew years in the cellar to show its best. Importedby The Sorting Table. —J.R.

90 Château d’Orschwihr 2009 Bollen-berg Riesling (Alsace); $18. Steely,

crisp, with a tight edge of green fruits. The struc-ture is dominant at this stage in the developmentof this rapier-like wine. Age for 3–4 years.Imported by Fine Vines. —R.V.

90 Domaine Eugène Meyer 2008Riesling (Alsace); $25. Very pure

fruit, crisp, a tight mineral band over vivid fla-vors. Tensely structured, this has a light vanillacharacter, packed with fruit skins, crisp and citrus.Imported by Chartrand Imports. —R.V.

90 Gustave Lorentz 2005 Altenbergde Bergheim Grand Cru Vieilles

Vignes Riesling (Alsace); $50. An invitingly

perfumed wine, its fruit bursting with citrusintensity. It has bright, very textured and mineralstructure offering aging potential. There is alively, vivid aftertaste. Imported by QuintessentialWines. —R.V.

90 Marc Kreydenweiss 2007 La DameWiebelsberg Grand Cru Vendan-

ges Tardives Riesling (Alsace); $103. Krey-denweiss’ unusually oxidative vinification methodsare better suited to making a sweet wine such asthis Vendanges Tardives, where we expect moresavory flavors and less fresh fruit. The dominantnotes here are caramel, cider and Asian spices,supported by a bright line of acidity that carriesthe flavors through to the lingering finish. Drinknow. Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.R.

89 Domaine Specht 2008 Mandel-berg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace);

$19. Soft and smooth, showing almonds, a touchof toast, the fruit calm, showing slowly in theriper texture of the wine. Acidity comes throughas a final bite. Imported by Global QualityImport. —R.V.

89 Domaines Schlumberger 2008 LesPrinces Abbés Riesling (Alsace);

$20. Finely perfumed wine, with all the rightcrisp, steely character of Riesling. It has brightwhite fruit flavors, intense initial acidity thatbroadens out into a fine, complex wine. Worthaging 3–4 years. Imported by Maisons Marques& Domaines USA. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

89 Domaines Schlumberger 2007Cuvée Ernest Sélection des Grains

Nobles Riesling (Alsace); $NA. Toffee andrich spice give this wine its concentrated flavors.It has intensity rather than weight, soft andsmooth with final caramel and light acidity.Imported by Maisons Marques & DomainesUSA. —R.V.

89 Helfrich 2007 Steinklotz GrandCru Riesling (Alsace); $25. Attrac-

tively perfumed Riesling, its fresh aciditymatched by white currant fruits and a tight edgeof minerality. Good, crisp final brightness.Imported by Underdog Wine Merchants. —R.V.

88 Cave de Beblenheim 2008 Baronde Hoen Riesling (Alsace); $12.

Lightly floral, showing a hint of minerality andpink grapefruit fruit. There is a fine apple skin

edge to this bright wine. Screwcap. Imported byThe Other Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V.

88 Marc Kreydenweiss 2007 LeChâteau Kastelberg Grand Cru

Riesling (Alsace); $105. Another wacky Ries-ling from Marc Kreydenweiss, this one somehowworks. There’s Asian spice here and an odd col-lection of oxidative aromas but also undeniableconcentration and good length. Serve thisunusual wine by itself or with Indian fare.Imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.R.

87 Domaine Zinck 2009 Riesling(Alsace); $16. Ripe and soft. There is

an attractive citrus element that gives structure,wih acidity coming through. Delicious now. Screw-cap. Imported by HB Wine Merchants. —R.V.

86 Gustave Lorentz 2008 Burg Ries-ling (Alsace); $30. Steely, mineral

style, very crisp. The texture is bone dry, withgrapefruit and lime flavors, a wine under tighttension. It has lightness and extreme freshness.Imported by Quintessential Wines. —R.V.

86 Pierre Sparr 2007 Grand CruSchoenenbourg Riesling (Alsace);

$40. Crisp and dry, with a nice aromatic tensionbetween a taffy topnote and a lemon baseline.There’s decent intensity to the earthy notes in themouth, though we could wish for a bit morelength from a Grand Cru. Drink now to 2012.Imported by MROI LLC. —J.R.

85 Helfrich 2009 Riesling (Alsace);$15. Crisp and freshly simple Riesling.

There are attractive green fruits, good acidity anda bright perfumed aftertaste. Not for aging.Imported by Underdog Wine Merchants. —R.V.

85 Jean-Baptiste Adam 2007 Kaeffer-kopf Vielles Vignes Grand Cru

Riesling (Alsace); $55. Opens with a classicnose of cream, citrus and spice, giving way to cot-ton candy, cardamon and café latte in the mouth.The crisp, dry finish of roasted nuts is attractivebut doesn’t really linger. Imported by Winebow.—J.R.

85 Pierre Sparr 2007 Riesling (Alsace);$14. Intensely fresh wine, crisp apples

and bright fruit with a light touch of pineapplejuice. The acidity is mouthwatering, with a lightlyperfumed edge. Screwcap. Imported by W.J.Deutsch & Sons. —R.V.

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84 Domaine Specht 2008 Riesling(Alsace); $15. Very light, this wine dis-

appoints with a lack of power, of steely acidity.Instead it is soft, broad, a touch of green fruit,leaving a light, bright aftertaste. Imported byGlobal Quality Import. —R.V.

84 Ringenbach Moser 2005 Riesling(Alsace); $NA. A full wine that shows a

richness, spice and a soft texture. While it is dry, itmisses acidity and feels fat. —R.V.

SPARKLING

88 Château d’Orschwihr NV Brut(Crémant d’Alsace); $20. Light acid-

ity and a crisp green-fruited texture offer finefreshness in this bright wine. The acidity is a deli-cious streak in the not quite dry final flavor.Imported by Fine Vines. —R.V.

84 Helfrich 2007 Crémant d’Alsace;$NA. Lightly perfumed wine, with fla-

vors that are off dry, soft and creamy. Almonds,quince and pear give the wine ripeness, but thefinish is rather soapy. Imported by UnderdogWine Merchants. —R.V.

PROVENCEROSÉ WINES

89 Domaine des Diables 2009 Rosé(Côtes de Provence Sainte-Vic-

toire); $18. This is a berry-scented, moderatelyfull-bodied Provence rosé. It’s ripe and round,with a soft, easy-to-drink style and a moderatelylong finish. Drink now. Imported by Savio SoaresSelections.

87 Bieler Père et Fils 2009 Rosé(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence); $11.

This fresh and flavorful rosé is as easy to like as itsgentle price tag. There’s loads of youthful straw-berry and peach fruit, propped up by a bright lineof acidity that carries the flavors through to amedium finish. Pick this for your next warmweather gathering. Imported by Bieler Commu-nications. Best Buy. —J.R.

87 Triennes 2009 Rosé (Vin de PaysVar); $18. A more weighty, mineral

interpretation, with upfront red fruit that transi-tions to an edgy, pear-inflected palate with good

concentration. Signs off with a final note ofcrushed raspberries. This one will last throughthe winter but should be drunk up before thesummer of 2011. Imported by The Sorting Table.—J.R.

86 Château Routas 2009 RouvièreRosé (Coteaux Varois); $13. Subtle

and restrained, drawn in a more oxidative, lessovertly fruity style. The palate is broad and unfo-cused but shows good depth of flavor and anintriguing thread of apricot. Ends with a nutty,almond note. Drink up. Imported by Mara Far-rell Communications. —J.R.

86 Commanderie de la Bargemone2009 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-

Provence); $18. Here’s a more seriousProvence rosé, with a nice mineral streak andgood depth of flavor. There’s red berry fruitupfront that turns a bit confected in the mouth,winding down to a taffy note on the short-to-medium finish. Perfect with a meal of grilled fish.Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —J.R.

85 Xavier Flouret 2009 Nationale 7Rosé (Côtes de Provence); $18.

Pretty and fresh, with vibrant, well-defined straw-berry fruit on the nose set against a backdrop ofwhite flowers. Turns a bit simple and fleeting inthe mouth. Drink up. Imported by Cognac One,LLC. —J.R.

84 Barton & Guestier 2009 Rosé(Côtes de Provence); $NA. With just

a light touch of sweet caramel, this is a gentlestyle of rosé. Fresh red fruits and acidity offer anattractive complement to each other. Importedby Diageo Chateau & Estates. —R.V.

84 Domaine de Brigue 2009 PrestigeRosé (Côtes de Provence); $15. A

bit confected upfront with notes of saltwater taffy,though there are some nice stone fruit tones atthe back. Pear is the dominant flavor in themouth, but it doesn’t hang around too long.Drink this crisp and dry rosé before 2011.Imported by Domaine de Brigue. —J.R.

RED WINES

89 Domaine de la Sangliere 2007Prestige (Côtes de Provence); $28.

Here’s a Provence red to take seriously for itssophisticated nose of forest floor and wet stones

set against a backdrop of brambly fruit. Thepalate is charming, nuanced and extracted, withgrippy tannins and a final lingering note of sourdrops. Drink now, with some barbecued sanglière(boar), if you have some on hand. If not, spareribs will do nicely as well. Imported by EuropeanWine Imports. —J.R.

88 Château Paradis 2007 Terre desA n g e s ( C o t e a u x d ’ A i x - e n -

Provence); $37. This is an ambitious effort,with prominent sawdust and campfire notes fromtoasty new oak that lead to a dense palate withmuscular tannins and strawberry fruit that car-ries over to the medium finish. Give this one afew years in the cellar to come together.Imported by Bob Bofman Selections. —J.R.

87 Domaine Houchart 2006 Côtes deProvence; $11. A classic Provence red:

charming, light and fresh, with pretty red fruitand straightforward flavors of plum and bramble.There’s a bit of tannin here but this is a wine todrink young, before the fresh fruit fades. Try withgrilled spare ribs. Imported by David MilliganSelections. —J.R.

87 Domaine Saint Andrieu 2007(Côtes de Provence); $13. Bright

and woodsy, this Syrah-dominant red is intriguingfor its tapestry of earth and mushroom flavorsinterwoven with mixed berry fruit. There’senough acidity in the medium, yeast-scented fin-ish to stand up to hearty red meats. Drink up.Imported by USA Wine West. —J.R.

86 Rimauresq 2006 Cru Classé (Côtesde Provence); $23. Raspberry and

earth tones open this medium-weight Provenceblend. There’s cherry fruit and a moderate levelof complexity on the palate but also a slightlyfunky note in the background. Tannins are force-ful but polite; try with pork roast. Imported byAmerican Wine Distributors. —J.R.

85 Domaine Saint Andrieu 2007(Coteaux Varois); $13. Simple but

charming, with uncomplicated black fruit upfrontfollowed by cherry and garrigue in the mouth,this is a good choice for a Labor Day barbecue;the fresh acidity and soft tannins put us in mindof something in the pork or veal family. Importedby USA Wine Imports. —J.R.

84 Commanderie de la Bargemone2005 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence);

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$14. An intensely herbal wine, smelling of thegarrigue where it is grown. It is lean, firmly tannicwith high red fruit acids, and a dry structure. It’srustic, reminiscent of old-style winemaking.Imported by Hand Picked Selections. —J.C.

WHITE WINES

90 Château Paradis 2008 Terre desA n g e s ( C o t e a u x d ’ A i x - e n -

Provence); $28. This striking Provence whiteopens with intense aromatics of mixed nuts andpeach that set the stage for a powerful expressionof crushed flowers and grass in the mouth. This isa refreshing wine, but weighty and warm; try withveal or light pork dishes. Drink now to 2011.Imported by Bob Bofman Selections. —J.R.

88 Domaine de la Sangliere 2008Prestige (Côtes de Provence); $27.

Complex and exotic, this blend of Rolle (Ver-mentino) and Ugni Blanc opens with papaya andalmond notes that fold into a flavorful palate ofcantaloupe and guava. Winds up on a brightmango tone. Drink now to 2011. Imported byEuropean Wine Imports. —J.R.

86 Domaines Ott 2007 Clos MireilleB l a n c d e B l a n c s ( C ô t e s d e

Provence); $39. This zesty Provence white isstarting to show its age a bit, with faded flowersupfront and a slightly waxy texture. Nonetheless,there’s enough to keep the senses entertained,with a pleasant floral edge to the pear-inflectedpalate and a final butter note. Drink up.Imported by Maisons Marques & DomainesUSA. —J.R.

86 Domaines Ott 2008 Clos MireilleB l a n c d e B l a n c s ( C ô t e s d e

Provence); $39. The nose is fresh and prettyand there’s definitely a luxurious texture to theflower-accented palate. However, it lacks inten-sity in the mouth and a slight funkiness on thefinish detracts. Drink soon. Imported by MaisonsMarques & Domaines USA. —J.R.

86 Le Classique from the 3 SpringsVineyard 2007 Coteaux d’Aix-en-

Provence; $17. At three years old, this wine isshowing some interesting developed aromas ofalmond paste and petrol while the lightweightpalate displays some nice butter tones. Pick thisone up soon, for it seems to be fading. Importedby OWS. —J.R.

TUSCANY2004 BRUNELLO

96 Altesino 2004 Riserva (Brunello diMontalcino); $80. This stunning wine

boasts loads of character that peels off as aromaticlayers of cherry, cassis, soapy wild flowers, vio-lets, earth, cola and church incense. There’s asweet spice element of cinnamon and nutmegand all the flavors last long on the finish. It’s tem-pered, elegant and smooth overall. Imported byWinebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

95 Casanova di Neri 2004 Cerretalto(Brunello di Montalcino); $200.

The aromas are harmonious and penetrating; themouthfeel smooth and velvety and the overalleffect is one of complexity and intensity. Cerre-talto is a cru selection riserva and represents oneof the most modern, fruit-forward and boldestexpressions from the Montalcino territory.Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct. CellarSelection. —M.L.

95 Castello Banfi 2004 Poggio all’OroRiserva (Brunello di Montalcino);

$150. The last time this special Riserva was pro-duced was in 1999. Only produced in excellentvintages, the 2004 expression shows amazing con-centration, balance, complexity, depth and per-sonality. Aromas include black cherry, cola, lightsmoke, graphite and moist tobacco. The mouth-feel is deep, penetrating and long lasting withtight but polished tannins. Drink after 2015.Imported by Banfi Vintners. Cellar Selection.—M.L.

95 San Polino 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $90. Here’s an imme-

diately seductive Riserva from Montalcino withsweet cherry aromas backed by vanilla, cinnamonand spice. The wine is terrific, from the intensityof its aromas to the smoothness of its mouthfeel.The finish is long, supple and very polished.Imported by Premier Wine Co. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.L.

95 Uccelliera 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $112. Uccelliera is

among an elite group that represents the best ofthe best of Montalcino. This gorgeous wine isintense and generous with nice concentration andlayered aromas of cherry, blackberry, spice, black-berry and plum. The mouthfeel is smooth and

rich and the wine promises many happy yearsahead. A Marc de Grazia selection; various Amer-ican importers. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

95 Valdicava 2004 Madonna delPiano Riserva (Brunello di Montal-

cino); $186. Here’s a dark and well concen-trated Brunello Riserva with meaty tones ofsmoked ham or bresaola backed by black cherryand prune. You’ll get loads of leather and tobaccoand the wine is bright and tart on the close with afresh fruit finale. Excellent. Imported by ViniferaImports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

94 Caparzo 2004 Borgo Scopeto Ris-erva (Brunello di Montalcino);

$97. Soft, supple and persistent, this gorgeousRiserva Brunello offers intensity and genuine ter-ritorial characteristics. Aromas include cherrycola, spice and loads of balsam notes such aseucalyptus and menthol. It’s tight and determinedin the mouth and this impression is reinforced byfresh acidity and silky tannins. Imported by Vine-yard Brands. —M.L.

94 Castello Romitorio 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $140.

Castello Romitorio’s beautiful Riserva Brunellodelivers ripe fruit notes with inky consistency andelegant mineral tones framed around a core ofsolid red fruit. The wine is supple and very pol-ished with impressive persistency on the finish.Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L.

94 La Fiorita 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $84. La Fiorita Ris-

erva shows excellent intensity and generosity withfull notes of blackberry, cherry, spice, cigar boxand smoke. The wine is big, thick and succulentand the finish lasts many long, delicious minutes.Very nice. Imported by Chambers & Chambers.Cellar Selection. —M.L.

94 Poggio Ant ico 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $178.

This is a particularly elegant wine that empha-sizes harmonious aromas of black fruit, spice andpolished mineral. Poggio Antico is an excellentproducer and this Riserva shows the best of Mon-talcino tradition. Imported by Empson (USA)Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

94 Poggio Nardone 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $NA.

Here’s a beautiful Brunello Riserva that comes atyou in full force thanks to its compelling aromas

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of spice, cherry, currants, mesquite wood andcola. There’s an immediate and direct manner tothe aromatic approach, but it’s layered and com-plex at the same time. Imported by Dancing BearCellars. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

93 Camigliano 2004 Riserva Gualto(Brunello di Montalcino); $107.

This is a super modern and pleasurable BrunelloRiserva with soft, sweet aromas of cherry, choco-late and vanilla bean. The texture is rich andsmooth and the tannins are fine and extremelypolished. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

93 Casanova di Neri 2004 TenutaNuova (Brunello di Montalcino);

$82. This vineyard-designate expression fromGiacomo Neri shows gorgeous depth and inten-sity. Aromas here include red berries, currants,anise seed, new leather, pipe tobacco and Spanishcedar. Its texture is rich, firm and ripe with berrynuances. Drink after 2017. Imported by DallaTerra Winery Direct. Cellar Selection. —M.L.

93 Citil le di Sopra 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $52.

Here’s an intense and immediate Brunello Ris-erva that needs a few more years of cellar aging tosoften its young tannins. There’s nice balancehere between fruit notes and spice and the wineis generous, rich and silky on the close. Vanillaand vibrant cherry cap off the experience.Imported by Siena Imports. Cellar Selection.—M.L.

93 Conti Costanti 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $138.

This is a standout Brunello Riserva thanks to thesmoothness and richness of its inviting aromas.The bouquet includes elements of cherry, choco-late fudge and soft plum and prune. Nothing isout of tune and the wine is equally harmoniousand tasty on the finish. Imported by Empson(USA) Ltd. —M.L.

93 Fuligni 2004 Riserva (Brunello diMontalcino); $140. Compared to past

vintages, this Riserva embodies a lighter, moreelegant style. Aromas are delivered in a direct andvertical manner and include cherry, red currant,chocolate and shadings of exotic spice. In themouth, this wine shows enormous intensity, butalso harmony and balance. Imported by Empson(USA) Ltd. —M.L.

93 Il Palazzone 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $140. Il Palazzone’s

2004 Riserva exhibits nicely aged aromas of driedcurrants, spice, leather, tar, Indian spice, pressedviolets and cassis. There’s excellent intensity andcomplexity here and the wine closes long with lin-gering layers of spice and smoke. Imported byDomaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.

93 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2004Castelgiocondo Riserva Ripe al

Convento (Brunello di Montalcino); $120.Beautifully intense and generous. this RiservaBrunello from Frescobaldi’s Castelgiocondaestate boasts a modern, determined style. Aro-mas here include black cherry, chocolate, tobaccoand spice. In the mouth, this wine is rich, smoothand very persistent. Imported by Folio Fine WinePartners. —M.L.

93 Mocali 2004 Vigna delle RaunateRiserva (Brunello di Montalcino);

$75. This is an excellent Riserva from Montal-cino with rich notes of bright cherry, toast, coffee,tobacco and blackberry. Aged in big oak casks, thewine also shows elegance and harmony with apristine, vibrant finish that lasts long on the palate.Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

93 Solaria 2004 Riserva 123 (Brunellodi Montalcino); $84. Produced by

vintner Patrizia Cencioni, this Brunello Riservais plump and succulent with loads of black fruit,new leather, moist tobacco, wet earth and wildmushroom. You’ll love the intensity and themouthfeel, which is tonic but firm at the sametime. Imported by Sherbrooke Cellars. —M.L.

93 Talenti 2004 Pian di Conte Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $NA. Tal-

enti’s Riserva Brunello is a beautiful wine on alllevels. There’s intensity and purity here withblackberry notes that blend with mineral andlight shadings of smoke and spice. The wine endswith power and determination and a very long,spicy finish. Imported by Robert ChadderdonSelections. —M.L.

93 Tenuta di Sesta 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $NA. The

bouquet opens to sophisticated aromas of driedfruit, spice, smoke, tar and licorice. This is an aus-tere and elegant wine that should be served withthe highest quality red meat. In the mouth, itdelivers complexity and elegance more than

brawn or power. Imported by Monsieur ToutonSelection Ltd. —M.L.

93 Tenuta Vitanza 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $90.

Here’s a dark and expertly extracted Brunello Ris-erva from a beautiful family-run estate located inits own microclimate within the Montalcinodenomination. The wine shows intense aromas ofblackberry, prune, leather, tobacco and spice.Imported by Vintners Estate Direct Importing.—M.L.

92 Fattoria La Lecciaia 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $60.

Smokey layers of tar and asphalt open the nose ofthis dark and brooding Brunello Riserva. Thereare some candied and dried fruit notes here butthe overall bouquet is focused on complex tertiaryaromas. What sets the wine apart however is itstexture: firm, drying and long lasting. Drink nowor up to three years from now. Imported by Mon-sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.

92 Fattoria La Lecciaia 2004 VignaManapetra Riserva (Brunello di

Montalcino); $65. This Brunello Riserva offersimpressive tones of red cherry and blackberrybacked by spice and toast. There’s a richly succu-lent or vinous nature to the wine that will surelyintegrate with more time in the cellar. In themouth, this wine is bright and fresh. Imported byMonsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.

92 Gianni Brunell i 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $105.

This elegant wine is distinguished by mineralnotes of lead pencil and slate that give backboneto broader aromas of cherry, plum, currant andprune. Oak-related layers of spice and toast add arefined touch but do not distract from the overallfruit characteristics. Imported by Acid Inc Selec-tions. —M.L.

92 La Poderina 2004 Poggio Banale(Brunello di Montalcino); $133.

Poggio Banale offers a clean and polished nosewith spice and black fruit highlights. The wine ischewy and deliciously succulent with tight tan-nins that make it an ideal candidate for long cellaraging. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

92 Mocali 2004 Riserva (Brunello diMontalcino); $60. Mocali’s Brunello

Riserva offers a bright and buoyant bouquet ofcherry, blackberry, spice, tobacco and dark choco-

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late. The wine is elegant, generous and balancedwith a full but not overdone style. Imported byMichael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

92 Padelletti 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $100. Here is a very

likeable Brunello Riserva with plush richness andintense aromas of chocolate, spice, cherry andblackberry. The wine is soft and rich and wouldpair perfectly with succulent steak. Imported byUva Imports. —M.L.

92 Pian dell ’Orino 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $135.

Barbecue smoke and mesquite wood are the mostimmediate aromas you will notice here. You’ll alsorecognize background tones of black peppercorn,lead pencil and licorice. The wine delivers loadsof intensity in the mouth. This a big, thick anddense expression that is ready to drink now.Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L.

92 Sesti 2004 Phenomena Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $110. Phe-

nomena Riserva offers huge intensity and fullnesswith opulent notes of black fruit, spice andtobacco. The wine wins points in the mouth whereit shows lovely density and persistency. Importedby Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —M.L.

92 Tenimenti Angelini 2004 Val diSuga Vigna Spuntali (Brunello di

Montalcino); $80. Elegance, harmony andpersistency characterize this Brunello Riservafrom the Tenimenti Angelini group. Aromasinclude ripe berry fruit, spice, leather, tobaccoand cola. Pair this wine with pheasant or gamemeat. The high alcohol will keep your palateclean. —M.L.

92 Tenuta Oliveto 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $NA.

There’s a smoky, meaty element to the bouquethere that recalls smoked bacon or beef jerky.Beyond those aromas, you’ll get tons of black cur-rant, plum and prune and the wine is satisfyingand extremely smooth on the finish. Imported byIma Imports. —M.L.

91 Casanova di Neri 2004 (Brunello diMontalcino); $55. Lighter in style and

consistency than this producer’s past Brunellos,this wine represents a return to Montalcino tradi-tion. Aromas include red cherry, wet earth, whitemushroom and tobacco. In the mouth, the wine is

tight, firm and long lasting. Imported by DallaTerra Winery Direct. —M.L.

91 D o m u s V i t a e 2 0 0 4 R i s e r v a(Brunello di Montalcino); $80.

Bursting red fruit stands opposite sophisticatedoak-driven aromas of spice, coffee and tobaccoto create a successful aromatic union. You cantaste the wood rendering with more precision inthe mouth, and the texture is consequently richand smooth Imported by Superior Wines LLC.—M.L.

91 La Fornace 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $80. Bright cherry

and wild berry aromas are enhanced by spice andoak nuances of tobacco and leather. Count on abright future for this Brunello Riserva as it inte-grates with more time in the cellar. The wine iscompact, fresh and persistent in the mouth.Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L.

91 La Fortuna 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $NA. Cherry, red

apple, spice and moist tobacco emerge from thenose of this Brunello Riserva. The wine offersimpressive intensity and density in the mouth andthe finish is long lasting and very enjoyable.Imported by MHW, Ltd.. —M.L.

91 La Togata 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $134. Made in lim-

ited quantities, this austere Riserva exhibits agedtones of dried blackberries and currants, exoticspice, tar, cola and powdered licorice. There’sgreat freshness here that helps propel the wineover the palate. Imported by Panebianco. —M.L.

91 Lazzeretti 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $NA. Buoyant and

fresh with penetrating aromas of red berry, cola,licorice and natural rubber, the bouquet hits thenose in a vertical and direct manner. The wine isfirm and textured in the mouth with a thick tan-nic coating that moves slowly over the palate.Imported by Joshua Tree Imports. —M.L.

91 Lisini 2004 Ugolaia (Brunello diMontalcino); $144. This Riserva

Brunello delivers instant aromas of spice, toastand leather that are wrapped seductively arounda core of black fruit and plum. Those spicenuances last long in the mouth and would pairwith braised meat or beef stew. The tannins aretight, so drink after 2014. Imported by Empson(USA) Ltd. —M.L.

91 San Polo 2004 Riserva (Brunello diMontalcino); $NA. Ripe fruit and oak

nuances emerge from the nose of this modernBrunello Riserva. Aromas include black cherry,blackberry preserves, spice and smoke. Brightfruit flavors and smooth tannins characterize themouthfeel. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.

91 S a s s o d i S o l e 2 0 0 4 R i s e r v a(Brunello di Montalcino); $90. Aus-

tere and elegant with ethereal tones of Spanishcedar, cherry cola, eucalyptus and licorice, thisBrunello represents some of vintage 2004’s bestqualities. The wine is elegant and tempered yetdetermined and enduring in the mouth. Pair itwith pork rolled with prunes. Imported bySupreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.

90 Abbadia Ardenga 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $NA.

Here’s a subdued Riserva with a clean bouquet ofaromas that faithfully reflect Sangiovese’s maincharacteristics. You’ll recognize red currants, wetearth, pipe tobacco, cola and tar. The mouthfeelis simple and fresh although it does impart long-lasting flavors of cherry and spice. Imported byMarket Wine. —M.L.

90 Fattoi 2004 Riserva (Brunello diMontalcino); $95. This is a rich and

deeply oak-driven expression of Brunello withlayers of spice and smoke that sit heavy over ripefruit aromas of plum, prune and black currant.The texture is smooth and rich and the tanninsare soft. Imported by Tricana Imports. —M.L.

90 Fattoria Scopone 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $55. Fat-

toria Scopone’s 2004 Riserva opens with charredaromas of campfire, liquid smoke and barbecuesauce. The fresh fruit notes tend to be on the ripeside: think mature cherry and strawberry. In themouth, however, this well-crafted wine is smooth,silky and long lasting. Imported by Siema LLC.—M.L.

90 Fornacina 2004 Riserva (Brunellodi Montalcino); $66. Here’s a smooth

and bright Brunello Riserva with beautiful fruittones followed by delicate notes of spice andblack mineral. Pair this wine with pheasant withwild rice. Imported by Villa Italia. —M.L.

90 Il Poggione 2004 Vigna PaganelliRiserva (Brunello di Montalcino);

$96. This Brunello Riserva offers very nice inten-

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sity and smoothness in the mouth, although itsaromatic bouquet is less determined. There aresweet polished tannins on the close and the winewould work with steak marinated with garlic androsemary. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna-tional. —M.L.

90 La Co lombina 2004 R i se rva(Brunello di Montalcino); $75. This

Brunello Riserva delivers subdued aromas ofcherry, blackberry, tar and spice. There’s a sourcherry theme in the mouth and the finish is brightand crisp. It is, however, a very food-friendly winethanks to the acidity. Pair it with grilled meats,wild mushroom risotto or cheesy pasta. Importedby Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

90 P in ino 2004 P inone R iserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $62.

There’s a raw, succulent element here that is rein-forced by aromas of cherry and blackberry. Thiswine is distinguished by an intensely floral bou-quet with notes of violets, lavender, incense andperfume. It’s bright and tannic at this point, sogive this wine a few more years of cellar aging.Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L.

89 C o l l e m a t t o n i 2 0 0 4 V i g n aFontelontano Riserva (Brunello di

Montalcino); $85. This Brunello Riserva offerswood-driven notes of spice and smoke backed byripe fruit and blackberry preserves. It is sweetand rich in the mouth with loads of jammy fruiton the close. Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L.

89 L e P o t a z z i n e 2 0 0 4 R i s e r v a(Brunello di Montalcino); $120.

Simple and straightforward aromas of red berryand mineral cap the aromatic nuances expressedin the Brunello Riserva. What the wine lacks iscomplexity, although it does feel rich, smooth andbright in the mouth. A Marc de Grazia selection;various American importers. —M.L.

89 P icc in i 2004 V i l la a l Cort i le(Brunello di Montalcino); $45. Pic-

cini offers a great opportunity to experienceBrunello di Montalcino to those who may notalready be familiar with this storied Tuscan wine.Available at a more attractive price, the wine islean and compact with bright notes of cherry,blackberry and exotic spice. Imported by AveniuBrands, Inc. —M.L.

88 Canneta 2004 Riserva (Brunello diMontalcino); $NA. This Riserva opens

with a lean, compact color and vinous aromas offorest berry and cherry. There’s crisp acidity herethat will pair perfectly with foods that have a fattyelement such as ricotta-filled pasta or butterchicken. Imported by Orvino Imports & Distrib-ution. —M.L.

88 Poggio dell’Aquila 2004 Riserva(Brunello di Montalcino); $NA.

Bright and buoyant, this Riserva Brunello offersloads of easy, fresh fruit with a point of ripe appleor white cherry. The wine is smooth and bright onthe finish with fresh acidity that follows polishedtannins. —M.L.

87 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2004Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina

d’Oro Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino);$65. This Riserva Brunello shows sharp, bramblycharacteristics of forest berry and white cherry.Although the nose is prickly and awkward, thewine wins points in the mouth thanks to its soft-ness and plushness. Imported by IndigenousSelections. —M.L.

2005 BRUNELLO

94 Cupano 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $140. Cupano has impressed with

its entire line of Tuscan wines this year. Made withorganically farmed fruit, this wine offers thick con-centration, a velvety texture and bright aromas ofcherry and spice. It’s one of the most opulentBrunellos we’ve seen this vintage. Imported byFairest Cape Beverage Co., Inc. —M.L.

93 Altesino 2005 Montosoli (Brunellodi Montalcino); $100. Altesino pro-

duces some of our favorite Brunello and althoughthis vintage of Montosoli is less overt than others,the winemakers have worked hard to craft a topshelf expression from this sun-kissed territory.There’s enormous depth and persistency herewith aromas of black fruit, spice and cherry cola.It’s smooth, rich and long lasting. Imported byWinebow. —M.L.

93 Castello Banfi 2005 Poggio alleMura (Brunello di Montalcino);

$85. Castello Banfi’s cru expression of Brunello,Poggio alle Mura, is a dark and delicious Brunellowith a vertical aromatic delivery of blackberry,currants, plums, cola, mesquite and spice. Sweetoak flavors of vanilla spread over the palate and

the wine has impressive consistency and persis-tency. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L.

93 L u c e d e l l a V i t e 2 0 0 5 L u c e(Brunello di Montalcino); $94. After

long anticipation, this Brunello finally hits themarket. The wine is sure to gain enormous suc-cess: the packaging is the essence of Italian styleand the wine itself shows the highest level ofquality. Rich and opulent aromas of cherry, black-berry, spice and leather abound and the wineshows enormous length on the finish. Importedby Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection.—M.L.

93 P o g g i o A n t i c o 2 0 0 5 A l t e ro(Brunello di Montalcino); $110.

Aged and sophisticated, this hearty and concen-trated Brunello offers ripe tones of blackberry,plum and prune along with subdued nuances oftoast and exotic spice. There’s great personalityand dimension here with medium body and afresh, berry-driven finish. Imported by Empson(USA) Ltd. —M.L.

93 Tenute Silvio Nardi 2005 VignetoManachiara (Brunello di Montal-

cino); $96. This impressive vineyard designateBrunello delivers buoyant tones of cherry cola,mesquite and balsam notes. There’s a direct andimmediate nature to the aromas, followed bybright acidity and silky tannins that leave a lastingimpression. This is a very beautiful wine thatwould pair with meats and oven-roasted pastadishes. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L.

93 Uccelliera 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $60. Uccelliera makes some of

the best Brunello you will find in the USA. Thisvintage does a great job of expressing the sun-drenched territory of Montalcino. Cherry andspice round off the bouquet and the mouthfeel ischaracterized by immense smoothness and rich-ness. A Marc de Grazia selection; various Ameri-can importers. —M.L.

92 Argiano 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $51. From one of the most beau-

tiful and historic estates in Montalcino, Argiano’sBrunello is redolent of cherry, cassis, exotic spice,smoke and very tame, delicate oak notes oftoasted vanilla. The wine is bright and polishedwith firm tannins and some sour cherry nuanceson the close. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

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92 Casanova di Neri 2005 TenutaNuova (Brunello di Montalcino);

$75. Beyond the plump notes of cherry andblackberry there’s an added touch of clove, car-damom and rosemary sprig that sets this wineapart. The mouthfeel is rich and textured andbecause the tannins still need to soften, we rec-ommend you put this bottle down in your cellarfor a few more years. Imported by Dalla TerraWinery Direct. —M.L.

92 Col di Lano di Giovanna Neri 2005Brunello di Montalcino; $55. Gio-

vanna Neri’s Brunello sports sweet and enticingnotes of cherry liqueur, vanilla and soft shades ofcinnamon spice. The wine is opulent and richlyconcentrated with sweet but firm tannins. Pairthis wine with steak in green peppercorn sauce.Imported by Vignaioli. —M.L.

92 Il Cocco 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $46. The Bindi family of Montal-

cino has crafted a fine Brunello with excellentpersonality and dimension. You’ll get aromas ofblack cherry, tart cassis, smoke, exotic spice andcola. It’s marked by elegance, balance and a full,generous feel in the mouth. Imported by Four-cade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L.

92 Le Chiuse 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $80. This beautiful wine opens

with impressive intensity and elegance. Aromasrecall wild raspberry, cherry, cassis, cola and sub-tle spice shadings. Thanks to the silky nature of itstannins, you could pair this wine with lean meatslike game hen or rabbit. Imported by FrederickWildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L.

92 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2005Castelgiocondo (Brunello di Mon-

talcino); $70. From the historic Frescobaldifamily that has been making wine since the 1300s,this concentrated and rich Brunello delivers amodern touch to a territory steeped in tradition.Aromas here include plump cherry, blackberryand cassis and all that fruit is supported by spiceand light toast. Drink after 2012. Imported byFolio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.

92 Mastrojanni 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $50. We are impressed

with what the Illy brothers (of the Italian coffeedynasty) have done with this historic brand fromMontalcino. The wine shows personality and dis-

tinction thanks to its aromas of wild cherries, cas-sis, light smoke and Spanish cedar. There’s brightacidity and elegance here. Imported by SelectedEstates of Europe Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.

92 Mocali 2005 Vigna delle Raunate(Brunello di Montalcino); $55.

Mocali boasts a consistent record of top-notchBrunellos year after year. This expression deliversmeaty tones of smoked bacon backed by maturecherry and raspberry. The concentration and den-sity is excellent (especially for this weaker vin-tage) and the firm tannins need two or threemore years of cellar aging to soften. Imported byMichael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

92 Padelletti 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $40. Vintner Claudia Padelletti

has crafted a lovely Brunello with bright fruitnuances and mineral tones that lend a polished,dry feel. In the mouth, the wine offers thicknessand length. Drink after 2012. Imported by UvaImports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.

92 Poggio Antico 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $96. This estate in Mon-

talcino is a favorite, thanks to its consistent pro-duction of seductive and charming wines. Here’sa Brunello that shows territorial characteristicsand careful workmanship with pristine aromas ofspice, cherry, blackberry and leather. Importedby Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.

92 Siro Pacenti 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $70. Attractive aromas of black

fruit, plum, coffee and cola emerge elegantlyfrom the nose of this solid Brunello di Montal-cino. Siro Pacenti is one of the area’s most historicestates and this expression offers endurance, per-sistency and silky tannins. Imported by MichaelSkurnik Wines. —M.L.

92 Tenute Silvio Nardi 2005 Brunellodi Montalcino; $55. Tenute Silvio

Nardi’s Brunello delivers a plump, ripe qualitythat emphasizes the wine’s naturally fruity andsucculent personality. Aromas recall maturecherry, leather, pipe tobacco and blackberry. Themouthfeel is rich, polished and there’s a touch ofbright acidity on the close. Imported by Kobrand.—M.L.

91 Altesino 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $50. Altesino’s base Brunello

presents a tonic, ruby color with pristine aromasof wild berry, blue flower, earth and ground clove.You’ll like the brightness and determination thewine shows in the mouth as it spreads clean overyour palate. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.

91 Caparzo 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $45. Clean and elegant with pol-

ished tannins and a silky texture. Caparzo makessome of the nicest Brunello you will find in theUSA. This vintage is characterized by bright berrytones and a lean but elegant feel in the mouth.Imported by Vineyard Brands. —M.L.

91 Casanova di Neri 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $55. Giacomo Neri has

seen his share of the media spotlight lately, butthis honest base Brunello shows loads of fruitcharacteristics followed by power and persistency.You’ll recognize cherry, blackberry and spice andthe overall delivery emphasizes pleasure anddrinkability. You could serve it now or wait threeor four more years. Imported by Dalla Terra Win-ery Direct. —M.L.

91 Da Vinci 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $70. Da Vinci delivers a bright

and vibrant Brunello with distinctive notes ofchurch incense and Christmas spice. There areloads of cherry nuances as well as some sweetvanilla tones. It imparts a smooth, silky feel with along, fruit-driven finish. Imported by E & J Gallo.—M.L.

91 Fattoria La Lecciaia 2005 VignaManapetra (Brunello di Montal-

cino); $55. Here’s an elegant and focusedexpression from Montalcino with tight aromas ofblackberry, cola, anise seed and polished blackstone. The mouthfeel is silky and smooth. Pairthis wine with rabbit stew with carrots and pota-toes. Imported by Monsieur Touton SelectionLtd. —M.L.

91 Fornacina 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $55. Vintner Simone Biliorsi

has crafted an opulent expression of Brunellowith sweet aromas of cherry, vanilla and spice.There’s a pretty, smoothing quality to this winethat is underscored by the silky quality of the tan-nins and the long persistency of flavors. Importedby Villa Italia. —M.L.

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91 Fuligni 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $75. Here’s an austere and sophis-

ticated Brunello with a slightly brownish hue toits garnet color and aged aromas of dried currantsand forest berries, spice, mesquite, soy sauce andlicorice. The wine is exceedingly silky and dryingin the mouth. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd.—M.L.

91 Il Palazzone 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $85. Il Palazzone opens

with a lean, compact appearance and a brightruby color. The bouquet delivers a steady aro-matic lineup of cherries, wild berries, blue flow-ers and light shadings of spice. There’s morepower and persistency here than you’d expectand Il Palazzone has succeeded in making a beau-tiful wine in a difficult vintage. Imported byDomaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.

91 Il Poggione 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $80. The folks at Il Poggione

have produced a fine Brunello with the intensityand aromas you should expect from this four-starvintage. You’ll get aromas of cherrywood, cola,wild berries and sour plum. There’s a fresh, leannature to the mouthfeel and a touch of bitter fruiton the close. Imported by Terlato Wines Interna-tional. —M.L.

91 La Fortuna 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $50. Here’s a fortunate

Brunello that is redolent of all the best aromasthe wine has to offer: blackberry, plump cherry,pressed violets and exotic spice. There’s a slightlysweet and pulpy quality to the mouthfeel thathelps drive this wine smoothly over the palate.Imported by MHW, Ltd. —M.L.

91 La Poderina 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $75. This ruby-colored

Brunello offer a distinct mineral accent that issurrounded by fruity tones of wild berries, cassisand cherry cola. There’s also a meaty or smokyquality here that gives the wine more heft anddetermination in the mouth. Drink it with grilledsausage. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

91 Lisini 2005 Brunello di Montalcino;$81. From the S. Angelo in Colle sub-

zone of Montalcino, this seriously fruit-drivenexpression relies on a solid bouquet of cherry,blackberry and cassis. Oak-driven layers of spiceand toast appear with more clarity in the mouth

and the finish is capped by long, silky tannins.Drink after 2013. Imported by Empson (USA)Ltd. —M.L.

91 Mocali 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $40. Mocali’s base Brunello from

the four-star 2005 vintage exhibits pretty spice lay-ers of ground clove and black pepper backed byloads of fresh berry fruit. The smooth mouthfeelpresents both crisp freshness and polished tannins.Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

91 Pietranera 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $60. Soft and plush from the

start, this bright Brunello spreads over the palatewith ease and persistency. Along the way, itimparts flavors of ripe fruit, blackberry, cherry,leather and moist pipe tobacco. The mouthfeelis smooth and thick. Imported by Soilair Selec-tion. —M.L.

91 Pietroso 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $60. This is a solid and attractive

Brunello with bright cherry notes backed by softertones of exotic spice, earth and white pepper. Thewine boasts a compact and firm feel in the mouththat would pair with duck, pork or game hen.Imported by Enotria Wine Import. —M.L.

91 Podere Brizio 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $NA. Creamy and lus-

cious with sweet fruit tones backed by layers ofspice and tobacco, this wine does a nice job ofshowcasing the 2005 vintage of Brunello. Thewine is less expressive in the mouth, where itshows a lean, compact feel with bright acidity. AMarc de Grazia selection; various Americanimporters. —M.L.

91 Poggio Nardone 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $NA. Vintner Tiziano

Ciacci delivers a beautifully extracted wine withrich ruby highlights backed by mature aromas ofblackberry, dried currants, clove and cardamom.The wine is smooth and rich in the mouth withtight tannins and bright berry freshness.Imported by Dancing Bear Cellars. —M.L.

91 Ricci 2005 Brunello di Montalcino;$NA. This 2005 Brunello opens with a

soft and supple nose that is accented by tones ofsweet cherry, blackberry and spice. All these ele-ments integrate well and the acidity versus tanninequation is equally balanced. There’s a slightly

sour note on the end that recalls almond skin orcassis. Imported by Italian Wine Growers. —M.L.

91 San Felice 2005 Campogiovanni(Brunello di Montalcino); $60. Wild

berry and forest aromas open the nose of thisclean and direct Brunello. There’s very nicepurity and intensity here and the wine showcaseslayers of red fruit, plum, spice, leather and rosepetal. The silky and smooth mouthfeel wouldwork with meat dishes or hearty pasta. Importedby Premium Brands. —M.L.

91 San Lorenzo 2005 Bramante(Brunello di Montalcino); $50.

Spice, toast and black fruit drive the nose of thisplush and ripe Brunello di Montalcino. There areloads of cherry, clove and eucalyptus-like aromasat the back that give the wine a more youthfuland fresh impact and fresh acidity seals the deal.The wine is rich and velvety in the mouth.Imported by Votto Vines Importing. —M.L.

91 Tenimenti Angelini 2005 Val diSuga (Brunello di Montalcino);

$50. Toasty notes of spice, plum, cherry cola,mesquite and moist earth make this textbookBrunello. It has all the aromatic qualities you seekin a wine of this workmanship and sophistication.There’s better density and thickness here toowhich helps propel the wine’s persistency on thepalate. —M.L.

91 Tenuta Poggio il Castellare 2005Brunello di Montalcino; $60. This

pretty Brunello opens with a dark garnet colorand segues to aromas of black cherry liqueur,blackberry, soy sauce, cola and dark spice. It’s abrooding, austere expression from Tuscany withpolished tannins and silky texture. Imported byMargate Wine & Spirit Company. —M.L.

91 T iezz i 2005 V igna Soccorso(Brunello di Montalcino); $45.

Here’s a dark and concentrated Brunello withthick aromas of spice, smoke and tobacco lavishedover a solid core of black fruit. The nose is defi-nitely on the oak-driven side but the mouth isbursting with fresh fruit notes. It makes for anexcellent ensemble. Imported by MichaelSkurnik Wines. —M.L.

91 Villa I Cipressi 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $51. This is a smooth and

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enduring Brunello with beautiful tones of ripecherry, vanilla bean, moist tobacco and loads ofblackberry and plum. Drying mineral tones comeinto focus on the rear and the wine is plush andsucculent in the mouth with polished tannins.Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.

90 Belpoggio 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $50. This vintage of Brunello

from Belpoggio delivers thick and luscious tonesof black fruit, plum, spice, blackberry and plumpcherry. The wine is rich and smooth in the mouthwith loads of black fruit nuances and an impres-sive, long finish. So far, this is our favorite vin-tage from this producer. Imported by WineWorldwide. —M.L.

90 Bonacchi 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $NA. Ripe berry fruit and plump

tones of cherry liqueur, blackberry and cassisopen the nose of this dark and concentratedBrunello. There’s also a hint of wet earth or wildmushroom and the wine is rich and smooth onthe finish, with tart cherry flavors. —M.L.

90 Castello Banfi 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $55. Dark ruby red in

appearance, this bright Brunello opens withvibrant fruit tones that fall harmoniously in stepwith spicy, oak-driven aromas. Although the winedrinks young now, it has the natural acidity andtannic structure for aging another five years ormore. Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L.

90 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2005Brunello di Montalcino; $33. This

is an elegant Brunello with pretty aromas of wildberries, cassis and white cherry enhanced bydetermined notes of spice and smoke. On thenose the wine is vertical and intense but likemany expression from the 2005 vintage, themouthfeel is toned down in dimension. Importedby Indigenous Selections. —M.L.

90 Col d’Orcia 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $55. An improvement over

past vintages, thanks to the elegance of its fruitand the richness of its consistency. The wine isbursting with cherry and cassis flavors and itshows harmony and a firm, streamlined nature toits mouthfeel. Imported by Palm Bay Interna-tional. —M.L.

90 Coldisole 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $31. Part of the Lionello March-

esi collection of Italian estates, Coldisole

consistently produces quality Brunello with alarge enough case production to make the winesreasonably easy to locate in the USA. This expres-sion offers a bright, ruby appearance followed byvibrant aromas of cherry and spice. Imported byW.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.L.

90 Fanti 2005 Brunello di Montalcino;$55. An important and historic player in

Montalcino, Fanti comes forth this year with yetanother beautiful Brunello. The wine is elegantand harmonious with bright layers of cherry fruit,spice and cola. The feeling it imparts in themouth is one of richness and smoothness andthere’s a playful touch of sour cherry on the close.Imported by Tutto Vino. —M.L.

90 Fattoria La Lecciaia 2005 Brunellodi Montalcino; $45. Ripe and plump

with pretty aromatic layers of blackberry, cherryand spice, this textbook Brunello speaks highlyof the beautiful territory that shaped it. Thewine is bright, crisp and a touch sour in themouth with enduring flavors of white cherry andcassis. Imported by Monsieur Touton SelectionLtd. —M.L.

90 Ferrero 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $50. This hearty Brunello offers

meaty tones of smoked bacon and ham that arewrapped over aromas of prune, mature cherry andblackberry. There’s very good persistency here andsilky tannins help shape the wine’s velvety texture.Imported by Bacchanal Wines. —M.L.

90 Fossacolle 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $70. Bright and fresh with

buoyant aromas of plum, blackberry and maturecherry, Fossacolle’s 2005 Brunello (by vintnerSergio Marchetti) is a dark and concentratedwine with impressive aromatic depth. Themouthfeel is lean and compact with firm, pol-ished tannins. Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

90 La Fornace 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $55. La Fornace delivers a

gorgeous Brunello this year with pristine aromasof blackberry, wet earth, violets, blackberries,cherries and pipe tobacco. The wine is thick andenduring with tight tannins and a long, butslightly sour finish. Drink after 2012. Importedby Vignaioli. —M.L.

90 La Gerla 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $40. An extensive aging program

has beautifully shaped this Brunello. The wine

shows balanced notes of fruit and spice with asmooth, silky texture. The density is not too thickor overdone and the wine would pair with pasta orrisotto. Imported by Slocum & Sons, Inc. —M.L.

90 Lambardi 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $NA. Maurizio Lambardi presents

a rich and enticing Brunello with a pretty aromaticlineup that spans from bright cherry to sophisti-cated spice notes. The wine is smooth and firm inthe mouth and is ready to drink now. —M.L.

90 Pian dell’Orino 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $65. What an improve-

ment over the overripe and jammy 2003 vintage.This is a nicely ripened, garnet-colored Brunellothat boasts impressive aromatic intensity. You’llnotice aromas of blackberry, spice, cherry colaand warmer tones of wet earth, leather andtobacco. The wine is thick and textured in themouth. Imported by Polaner Selections. —M.L.

90 P icc in i 2005 V i l la a l Cort i le(Brunello di Montalcino); $45.

Here’s a genuine and fruit-driven expression ofBrunello with ripe notes of mature cherry andblackberry followed by a focused mineral tone ofblack stone or chalkboard. You’ll also get interest-ing layers of eucalyptus, cola and dried herbs atthe back. Imported by Aveniu Brands, Inc. —M.L.

90 Rodolfo Cosimi 2005 Bramante(Brunello di Montalcino); $40.

Here is a very attractive approach: equal partsfruit (cherry, blackberry and cassis) matched byequal parts spice. There’s a thickness and an over-all integrity here that gives the wine both stayingpower and endurance. Pair it with Cornish gamehen or roast pork with fennel seed stuffing.Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc. —M.L.

90 San Polo 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $70. Here’s a Brunello from the

four-star 2005 vintage with a thick, almost creamybouquet of ripe fruit, smooth cinnamon or clove,and warm tones of used leather and earth. There’sa fresh acidic component as well with a brightberry finish. Imported by Winebow. —M.L.

90 Solaria 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $48. There’s a pretty, buoyant or

balsamic quality to this fresh Brunello that helpsdelivers its fruit and spice aromas in a direct andimmediate manner. That clean approach gives thewine a determined and lasting impression in the

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mouth. Drink it with game meats or steak.Imported by Sherbrooke Cellars. —M.L.

90 Tenuta di Sesta 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $110. Tenuta di Sesta

consistently produces top-notch Brunello with aneye on tradition and territory. Textbook aromasof cherry, leather, earth and blue flowers emergefrom the nose. The mouthfeel is silky, persistentand fresh. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selec-tion Ltd. —M.L.

90 Tenuta Friggiali 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $55. Harmony and clean

delivery of fruit on the nose and mouth mark thiswine. You’ll encounter layers of cherry, black-berry, plum, cola and spice. There’s a dusting ofmineral as well and the tannins are silky but firm.Imported by Vinifera Imports. —M.L.

90 Villa Poggio Salvi 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $50. Surrounded by

forests teeming with wild animals and boars, Pog-gio Salvi has one of Montalcino’s most isolatedand unique vineyards. This wine offers cherry andspice aromas with an easy but extremely polishedmouthfeel. Bright acidity at the end underlinesthose vibrant berries flavors. Imported by Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L.

89 Abbadia Ardenga 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $NA. This hearty but

genuine Brunello delivers steady aromas ofcherry, forest fruit, cola, leather and blacklicorice. It feels simple and easy in the mouth andwould make a perfect companion to lasagna withmeat sauce. Imported by Market Wine. —M.L.

89 Casanuova delle Cerbaie 2005Brunello di Montalcino; $65. This

Brunello represents the 2005 vintage perfectly.The wine is not dense or over-concentrated andthe aromas are bright and polished. Everythingcomes in moderation. Pair this wine with leancuts of red meat on the grill. Imported by CastleBrands. —M.L.

89 C a s i s a n o C o l o m b a i o 2 0 0 5Brunello di Montalcino; $NA. Com-

pact and lean in texture, this bright Brunellooffers brambly notes of wild berry, cassis, whitecherry and licorice. The wine is a bit raw andthorny in places but the fresh acidity and berryflavors pull it forward. Imported by Laird &Company. —M.L.

89 Domus Vitae 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $60. Here’s a smoky,

earthy Brunello that shows sophisticated use ofoak to render aromas of toast, spice and leather.There are fresh fruit nuances here as well—mainly cherry and blackberry—and the wine isbright, tonic, crisp and relatively lean on theclose. Imported by Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.

89 Fattoi 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $41. Here’s a plump and rich aro-

matic expression from the 2005 vintage with spicyoak tones that are woven within the wine’s naturalfabric of cherry and black fruit. However, in themouth the wine is lightweight and lean with atannic dusting at the end. Imported by TricanaImports. —M.L.

89 Innocenti 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $NA. There’s a sharp, brambly

quality to this Brunello that recalls aromas of for-est floor, chopped herb and wild berries. You’llalso get mineral tones, slight graphite tones andthe mouthfeel is both drying and polished. Pairthis wine with Porcini risotto or pork medallions.Imported by Mission Wine Company. —M.L.

89 La Colombina 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $40. There’s a meaty,

smoked element to the nose of this Brunello thatrecalls beef jerky or sizzling bacon. Those heartyaromas are followed by delicate layers of black-berry, cherry and spice. The wine is bright andacidic in the mouth, which makes for an excel-lent balance. Imported by Michael SkurnikWines. —M.L.

89 Lazzeretti 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $NA. This rich expression from

the 2005 vintage shows some signs of aging thatare evident in its brownish-garnet color and inthe wine’s aromas of candied fruit, dried currants,mesquite, cola and licorice. It’s powerful andpleasantly intense in the mouth with bright acid-ity and silky tannins. Drink now. Imported byJoshua Tree Imports. —M.L.

89 Poggio dell’Aquila 2005 Brunellodi Montalcino; $NA. Leaner in con-

sistency and milder in temper, this is an elegantBrunello that puts more emphasis on aromaticsthan it does on build and heft. It’s a feminine,delicate expression with enduring notes of spice,cola and cassis on the finish. —M.L.

89 Renieri 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $NA. Renieri’s newest Brunello

offers perfumed tones of church incense backedby Indian spice and red berries. The wine isbright and tonic with some sour fruit and a nice,silky feel to the tannins.—M.L.

89 SassodiSole 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $49. This well-aged

Brunello shows a brownish hue in its ruby color-ing and exhibits aromas of dried currants, licorice,cola, balsam and ground white pepper. Thisexpression has more heft and determination inthe mouth (compared to other Brunellos fromthe 2005 vintage) and lasts long on the palate.Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.

89 Talenti 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $NA. Riccardo Talenti’s 2005

Brunello offers slightly raw or sharp notes ofwhite cherry, forest berry, spice and cola. There’sdefinition and linearity here capped by fresh acid-ity and a specifically firm or polished quality tothe tannins. Imported by Robert ChadderdonSelections. —M.L.

89 Tassi 2005 Brunello di Montalcino;$60. Elegant and refined with small aro-

matic pulses of cherry, violets and white mush-room, this wine is very true to the Sangiovesevariety. The mouthfeel is light and thin and there’sa truly feminine nature to this expression ofBrunello. Imported by Wine Emporium. —M.L.

89 Tenuta San Giorgio 2005 Ugolforte(Brunello di Montalcino); $50. This

is a ripe and plump Brunello that could use two orthree years of cellar aging to allow the oak notes tofully integrate. The quality of the fruit is excel-lent—cherry, blackberry and currants abound.Immediately behind those aromas, however, isloads of spice, smoke and tar. Drink after 2012.Imported by Blavod Extreme Spirits. —M.L.

89 Tiezzi 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $40. Toasty notes of almond and

walnut are followed by black fruit, cherry and cas-sis. The wine is bright, sharp and cleansing in themouth with tonic acidity and a compact feel over-all. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

88 Canalicchio di Sopra 2005 Brunellodi Montalcino; $65. Here’s a tight and

compact expression from Montalcino with brighttones of cherry wood, wild berries and violets thatare delivered in steady aromatic pulses. The fin-

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ish is not too long or persistent, but the flavors arefresh and very tasty while they last. Imported byVinifera Imports. —M.L.

88 Cantina di Montalc ino 2005Brunello di Montalcino; $NA. A

deep garnet color and rich concentration charac-terize this austere Brunello di Montalcino. Thenose is redolent of wild berries, cassis, currants,leather, dried tobacco and forest floor. In themouth, the wine is smooth, silky and polished. —M.L.

88 Conti Costanti 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $79. Here’s a simple but

genuine expression from Montalcino with bright,easy fruit tones covered by a delicate layer ofspice and dried tobacco. It’s not too complicatedor rich, but the wine offers a fresh, easy experi-ence nonetheless. Imported by Empson (USA)Ltd. —M.L.

88 Fattoria Scopone 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $40. This is a thick and

brawny Brunello that shows a lot more heft andpersonality than some of the weaker expressionfrom the 2005 vintage. Fattoria Scopone presentsa rich and textured wine with ripe notes of cherryliqueur and blackberry followed by firm, grittytannins. Imported by Siema LLC. —M.L.

88 Gianni Brunelli 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $75. Gianni Brunelli’s ele-

gant Brunello opens with a bright ruby color and alean, tonic appearance. Yet the aromas of cherry,anise seed and wild flowers are intense and beau-tiful. The mouthfeel is streamlined and compact.Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.

88 I l Marroneto 2005 SelezioneMadonna delle Grazie (Brunello di

Montalcino); $90. This special selectionBrunello shows ripe notes of strawberry and rasp-berry backed by spice and mature cherry. It’ssmooth and bright with a touch of sour fruit onthe close. Imported by Domaine Select WineEstates. —M.L.

88 La Togata 2005 Brunello di Mon-talcino; $72. Here’s a simple but gen-

uine rendition of Brunello with measured aromasof cherry, wild berry and Indian spice. There’smore personality in the mouth, however, wherethe wine shows a soft, supple and smooth texture.Imported by Panebianco. —M.L.

88 L e P o t a z z i n e 2 0 0 5 G o r e l l i(Brunello di Montalcino); $65. This

Brunello opens with a bright ruby color and deliv-ers aromas of cherry cola, Spanish cedar, cigarbox, wild berries and spice. It’s a streamlinedwine that puts more emphasis on elegance thanbrawn or power. A Marc de Grazia selection; var-ious American importers. —M.L.

88 Rodolfo Cosimi 2005 Terra Rossa(Brunello di Montalcino); $60.

Terra Rossa is a bright and polished Brunello withpretty aromas of spice, anise seed, blackberry,cherry and cola. There’s a note of sour cherry onthe close and the wine shows bright acidity thatwould pair well with succulent meat and cheesypasta dishes. Imported by Enotec Imports, Inc.—M.L.

88 Tenuta Oliveto 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $NA. Among the most

extracted and thick Brunellos of this vintage,Tenuta Oliveto offers a compelling wine withfresh tones of cherry, red apple and wild berries.There’s a slightly thorny or sharp nature to thebouquet that reminds you of sour fruit, blue flow-ers and underbrush. Imported by Ima Imports.—M.L.

87 Baccinetti 2005 Saporoia (Brunellodi Montalcino); $45. Here’s a dark

and well concentrated Brunello with aromas thatrecall wild berries and appleskin. The fresh inten-sity of those aromas suggest slight volatility, butthis doesn’t seem to distract too much from theoverall picture. In the mouth, the wine is verypolished and squeaky clean. Imported by PremierWine Co. —M.L.

87 Canneta 2005 Brunello di Montal-cino; $NA. There’s a meaty, ripe aspect

to the aromas here that recall black cherry andsmoked ham. But there’s also an edgy green tonethat lends a slightly bitter impression in themouth. Imported by Orvino Imports & Distribu-tion. —M.L.

87 Collemattoni 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $55. Collemattoni deliv-

ers a ripe, fruit-driven Brunello that will appeal tothose who enjoy plump, jammy notes in their redwine. Raspberry, strawberry and mature cherrystand out within a larger embroidery of spice andtobacco. The wine is soft and smooth with sweetberry notes on the close. Imported by Vignaioli.—M.L.

87 Il Marroneto 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $60. There’s a brambly,

slightly raw or sharp note here that comes off aswhite cherry, wild berry and spice. In the mouth,the wine shows bright acidity and polished tan-nins. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates.—M.L.

87 Vasco Sassetti 2005 Brunello diMontalcino; $NA. Earthy aromas of

white mushroom and dried roses that are charac-teristic of Tuscan Sangiovese are what you noticefirst here. The wine then segues to fruit and spicearomas, although those berry notes are on themature and jammy side. Fresh acidity and firmtannins suggest a pairing with red meat. Importedby Franco Wine Imports. —M.L.

ROSSO DI MONTALCINO

91 Poggio Nardone 2008 Rosso diMontalcino; $NA. This is a truly out-

standing Rosso di Montalcino that shows all theripe and opulent characteristics of the promising2008 vintage. The wine is rich, smooth and deter-mined. The tannins are polished and silky.Imported by Dancing Bear Cellars. —M.L.

90 Mocali 2008 Rosso di Montalcino;$20. Mocali’s bright Rosso di Montal-

cino makes a great first impression thanks to itsvibrant aromas of cherry, blackberry, spice androot beer. The wine is very rich and smooth inthe mouth with impressive persistency. Importedby Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

90 Ricci 2008 Rosso di Montalcino;$NA. Tenimenti Ricci offers a dark and

luscious wine with deep aromas of blackberry,cherry, exotic spice and old leather. It’s not asthick or extracted as the estate’s Brunello, but thiswine is designed to offer an informal expressionthat can still stand up to grilled meats. This Rossodoes exactly that. Imported by Italian WineGrowers. —M.L.

89 La Poderina 2008 Rosso di Mon-talcino; $40. La Poderina’s Rosso

offers elegant notes of fine spice backed by smallforest berries and currants. This wine excels atbeing intense and powerful but in a uniquelyunderstated way. The finish is silky and smooth.Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

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89 Le Ragnaie 2008 Rosso di Montal-cino; $15. Le Ragnaie offers an attrac-

tively well-balanced Rosso with equal parts spice,dark fruit and tobacco on the nose. In the mouth,this wine is full of dimension and power and itsrich berry flavors last a long time. Imported byVine Street Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.

89 Tenuta Il Poggione 2008 Rosso diMontalcino; $28. This is the kind of

Rosso di Montalcino you could pair with sea-soned pork or chicken curry. It has the heft andsubstance to stand up to those spicy foods andoffers loads of fresh fruit intensity on the close.Imported by Terlato Wines International. —M.L.

88 Camigliano 2008 Rosso di Montal-cino; $25. Elegant but austere, this

bright Rosso delivers lively aromas of cherry cola,dried blueberries, spice and moist pipe tobacco.Floral and mineral tones appear in the mouth andthe wine ends with a sweet but polished feel.Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

88 Casisano Colombaio 2008 Rosso diMontalcino; $NA. This is a very suc-

cessful Rosso di Montalcino with great intensityand loads of cherry and bright berry personality.There are austere notes of earth, cola and spice atthe back and the wine feels smooth and silky onthe palate. Imported by Laird & Company. —M.L.

88 Fossacolle 2008 Rosso di Montal-cino; $33. Here’s a very balanced Rosso

with contrasting aromas of cherry and red fruitthat stand against spice, chocolate and tobacco.It’s a bright, spicy wine with power, persistencyand a much-needed touch of zesty acidity.Imported by Vias Imports. —M.L.

88 Pietranera 2008 Rosso di Montal-cino; $NA. An austere element of

smoked meat, moist pipe tobacco and ripe black-berry opens the nose of this concentrated Rosso diMontalcino. This is a brawny, masculine wine withloads of spicy intensity to match marinated barbe-cue steak. Imported by Soilair Selection. —M.L.

88 San Polo 2007 (Rosso di Montal-cino); $25. San Polo’s Rosso di Montal-

cino offers classic aromas of cherry, black fruitand spice. But it also adds an extra layer of vanillaand sweet spice that makes for a very nice ensem-ble. It’s smooth, rich and spicy on the close.Imported by Winebow. —M.L.

88 Tenute Silvio Nardi 2008 Rosso diMontalcino; $25. Here’s a lush and

modern Rosso di Montalcino with bright aromasof spice and vanilla that play background roles tofresh cherry and raspberry. The wine boasts asmooth, supple texture and sweet fruit on the fin-ish. Imported by Kobrand. —M.L.

87 Fanti 2007 Rosso di Montalcino;$25. Light and cheerful, this ruby-col-

ored Rosso delivers a mixed bag of aromas. You’lldetect red fruit, barbecue spice, smoked meat,leather and prune. It shows very nice intensity andpersistency on the close with a playful touch ofrefreshing acidity. Imported by Tutto Vino. —M.L.

87 Fattoria Scopone 2008 Rosso diMontalcino; $20. Apart from an obvi-

ous emphasis on oak-related aromas of vanilla,spice and carpentry shop, this is a satisfying Rossothat would pair with roast chicken, potatoes, gar-lic and rosemary. The garlic and rosemary wouldtake the edge off those wood tones. Imported bySiema LLC. —M.L.

87 Il Poggiolo 2007 Sassello (Rosso diMontalcino); $25. Here’s a heavily

oak-influenced Rosso that delivers aromas ofvanilla, spice and woodshop over the wine’s natu-ral fruit. In fact, blueberry and cherry flavorscome through with more clarity in the mouth,backed by soft, silky tannins. Imported by EnotecImports, Inc. —M.L.

87 La Colombina 2008 Rosso di Mon-talcino; $20. A brambly note of forest

floor or exotic spice emerges first from the noseof this ruby-colored Rosso and is followed by flo-ral notes of violets and dried lavender. The wineis fresh, thin and offers easy informality overall.Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

87 La Fornace 2007 Rosso di Montal-cino; $23. Lean and compact with sub-

dued aromas of cherry and wild berry, this is aninformal Rosso to drink with roast chicken orhome-cooked meatloaf. The wine is smooth andrich on the palate and it offers a cleaning touchof acidity on the finish. Imported by Vignaioli.—M.L.

87 La Togata 2007 Rosso di Montal-cino; $30. From the very nice 2007 vin-

tage, this fresh Rosso di Montalcino offersmeasured aromas of black fruit, spice, plum, cur-rant and moist earth. The wine’s acidity is well

balanced against its spicy finish. Imported byPanebianco. —M.L.

87 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2007Castelgiocondo Campo ai Sassi

(Rosso di Montalcino); $25. Campo ai Sassiis a lush and ripe Rosso with a point of cherryliqueur that appears alongside blueberry, spice,leather and tobacco. The wine is fresh, compactand would pair with succulent cuts of red meat.Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.

87 Pinino 2008 Clandestino (Rosso diMontalcino); $27. Clandestino is an

oak-influenced Rosso di Montalcino with brightaromas of cinnamon, vanilla and chocolate thatintermingle with cherry, blackberry and cassissyrup. Pair this wine with pork or poultry.Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L.

87 Pinino 2008 Cupio (Rosso di Mon-talcino); $19. Cupio offers sharp aro-

mas of bramble and spice backed by softeraromas of plum, prune and vanilla bean. Thefresh acidity really keeps the palate polished andthis wine would pair with cheesy pasta or butterydishes. Imported by USA Wine Imports. —M.L.

87 San Lorenzo 2007 (Rosso di Mon-talcino); $24. Well balanced and meas-

ured in terms of its aromatic intensity, this is aclean, straight-shooting Rosso di Montalcino thatwill pair with everything from lasagna to ham-burgers. The wine shows more determination inthe mouth thanks to its thick, supple texture.Imported by Votto Vines Importing. —M.L.

87 SassodiSole 2008 Rosso di Mon-talcino; $23. Straightforward and hon-

est, this bright Rosso delivers clean aromas ofcherry, blueberry and subtle shadings of smokeand spice. You could pair this wine with lasagna,meat-filled ravioli or light pork or beef roasts.Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.

87 Tenimenti Angelini 2008 Val diSuga (Rosso di Montalcino); $25.

True to its definition, this Rosso truly does act as“Brunello’s little sister.” It shows the same ele-gant aromas of spice and black fruit, but does soin a less intense and more informal manner. Thatsame easy feeling translates to the mouth as well.—M.L.

87 Uccelliera 2008 Rosso di Montal-cino; $28. Uccelliera regularly pro-

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duces powerhouse Brunellos. This Rosso evi-dently represents a change of pace becauseinstead of power and intensity, you get etherealaromas of wild berry and green spice. There’s alsoan unexpected touch of sour cherry on the close.A Marc de Grazia selection; various Americanimporters. —M.L.

87 Villa I Cipressi 2007 Rosso di Mon-talcino; $25. This luminous, ruby-col-

ored Rosso delivers aromas of cherry, ripe berryfruit and sweet vanilla. There’s a soft, moderntouch here that has been shaped by oak aging andyou’ll taste background flavors of smoke andspice. Imported by Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.

86 Baccinetti 2007 Saporoia (Rosso diMontalcino); $25. This is a powerful

wine, both in terms of alcohol and aromatic inten-sity. You’ll recognize tones of cherry liqueur,blackberry preserves and Indian spice. It’s softand sweeter than most other Rosso di Montal-cino. Imported by Premier Wine Co. —M.L.

86 Castello Tricerchi 2008 Rosso diMontalcino; $NA. Light and luminous

in appearance, this bright Rosso di Montalcinodelivers subdued aromas of raspberry, cherry, colaand wet earth. None of these aromas are particu-larly intense, but they are balanced. Imported byMonarchia Matt International. —M.L.

86 Poggio Antico 2008 Rosso di Mon-talcino; $48. There’s a brambly, slightly

unripe or green aroma that characterizes this vin-tage of Poggio Antico’s popular Rosso di Montal-cino. That said, the wine does fill in smoothlyover the palate with wild berry and spice flavors.Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.

85 Fornacina 2008 Rosso di Montal-cino; $24. This is a light and loosely fra-

grant Rosso with tones of raspberry, cherry andblueberry. It’s easygoing and simple in style withfresh acidity on the close. Imported by Villa Italia.—M.L.

85 La Fortuna 2008 Rosso di Montal-cino; $22. La Fortuna’s Rosso offers

contrasting aromas of spice, red apple, wild berry,bramble and cherry liqueur. It boasts a deep rubycolor and in the mouth, it feels pointed and edgy.Imported by MHW, Ltd.. —M.L.

85 Le Potazzine 2008 Gorelli (Rossodi Montalcino); $28. There’s a sharp,

brambly note here of forest green and sourcherry that eventually transforms into spice andblackberry as the wine spends more time in theglass. The mouthfeel is smooth and silky. A Marcde Grazia selection; various American importers.—M.L.

84 Canneta 2008 Rosso di Montal-cino; $NA. Canneta presents a thin,

ruby-colored Rosso with immediate aromas ofraspberry, red apple, tobacco and spice. The wineis bright and streamlined on the finish with aprickly acidic endnote. Imported by OrvinoImports & Distribution. —M.L.

83 Poggio dell’Aquila 2008 Rosso diMontalcino; $NA. This Rosso shows

awkward aromas of almond paste and lemon zeston top of characteristic layers of wild berry andspice. It’s light and lean on the palate with crispfruit flavors on the close. —M.L.

82 Tenuta Oliveto 2007 Il Roccolo(Rosso di Montalcino); $NA. There’s

an overripe or jammy element to this Rosso thatresembles blackberry preserves, smoked ham andmoist tobacco. The wine tastes sweet and sticky inthe mouth and leaves the palate covered withstrawberry-like flavors. Imported by Ima Imports.—M.L.

OTHER TUSCAN REDS

93 Casanova di Neri 2006 Pietradon-ice (Toscana); $110. This full, plump

and generous Cabernet Sauvignon offers loads ofripe fruit, smoothness and intensity. If you loverich, sun-filled red wines from Tuscany, this is aperfect choice. In the mouth, you get firm tan-nins and bright cherry flavors on the close. Excel-lent. Imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct.—M.L.

90 Fattoria La Lecciaia 2005 Sant’An-timo; $20. This deeply colored blend

of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangioveseoffers a soft and layered bouquet of cherry, spice,leather and tobacco. The wine is smooth and lus-cious with a particularly spicy finish. Imported byMonsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.L.

89 Máté 2006 Mantus (Sant’Antimo);$45. Here’s a thick, powerful and sweet-

smelling expression of Merlot from Montalcinowith ripe aromas of cherry, blackberry and Indian

spice. The density is thick and opulent and thesucculent tannins give the wine even more heftand dimension in the mouth. Imported by Vini-landia USA. —M.L.

88 Fanti 2007 Sassomagno (Sant’An-timo); $15. From the Castelnuovo del-

l’Abate subzone of Montalcino, this bright superTuscan blend delivers ripe notes of maturecherry, coffee grounds, dried tobacco leaf andcassis syrup. There’s a sweet tone of cherry andvanilla in the mouth and the wine’s texture isthick and chewy. Imported by Tutto Vino. —M.L.

88 Mocali 2008 I Piaggioni (Toscana);$15. Mocali is a well-established estate

in Montalcino and I Piaggioni is one of its superTuscan wines. This youthful expression of San-giovese offers hearty cherry aromas with loads ofpretty spice and vanilla at the back. Imported byMichael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

87 Mocali 2008 Fossetti (Toscana);$12. This blend of Sangiovese and

Canaiolo offers a nose of berry fruit and lightalmond shadings backed by an easy, informalmouthfeel. Pair this fruit-driven red with pastaor pizza. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines.—M.L.

84 Poggio Lungo 2007 Morellino diScansano; $22. Good growing condi-

tions in 2007 helped shape this bright, berry-driven wine from southern Tuscany. You’llrecognize aromas of cherry, blueberry and min-eral backed by a firm texture and sour cherry fla-vors. This is a simple, easy-drinking expression.Imported by R&R Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.

83 Poggio Lungo 2008 Morellino diScansano; $20. Jammy notes of straw-

berry and raspberry preserves open the nose ofthis overripe Morellino di Scansano. The wine isdark and concentrated but all that mature fruitleaves a raw, chewy sensation on the finish.Imported by R&R Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.

TUSCAN ROSÉ

85 Belguardo 2009 Belguardo Rosé(Toscana); $17. A 50-50 blend of Syrah

and Sangiovese, this delicately pink Tuscan roséoffers bright aromas of raspberry, pink grapefruit,cranberry and almond skin. Pair this wine with

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salmon canapé and other appetizers. Imported

by Palm Bay International. —M.L.

TUSCAN WHITES

88 Mazzei 2009 Belguardo (Toscana);$17. Here’s a gorgeous Vermentino (with

small percentages of other white grapes blended

in) that shows a luminous, golden color and bright

aromas of white peach, apricot and dried hay. The

wine makes an extremely clean, fresh and vibrant

impact in the mouth. Imported by Palm Bay

International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.

87 Castello Montaúto 2008 Vernacciadi San Gimignano; $20. You’ll really

love this simple and clean white wine from sunny

Tuscany. The aromas here are crisp and fragrant,

recalling peach, apricot and pear. The wine is

zippy in the mouth but it also awards enough nat-

ural structure for tuna or sushi. Imported by

Banfi Vintners. —M.L.

87 Cecchi 2008 Litorale (Maremma);$18. Cecchi, the historic estate in Chi-

anti Classico, is doing beautiful work at their sec-

ond property in Maremma, southern Tuscany.

Litorale Vermentino really does conjure up

images of sea, sand and heaping servings of

seafood. The wine is light, fresh and very tasty.

Imported by Banfi Vintners. —M.L.

87 Mocali 2009 Fossetti (Toscana);$15. Mocali’s Fossetti estate delivers a

fantastically crisp and easy white blend of

Chardonnay, Moscato and Trebbiano with the

natural creaminess, floral aromatics and freshness

you’d expect of those three grapes respectively.

It’s the perfect fish or pasta salad wine. Imported

by Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.

86 Morisfarms 2009 Maremma; $19.This is a very attractive and straightfor-

ward Vermentino from southern Tuscany. This

native variety is gaining in popularity and it’s easy

to see why: the wine is fresh, crisp and very

bright on the close. Imported by Polaner

Selections. —M.L.

SPAINRED WINESRIBERA DEL DUERO

100 Viña Sastre 2006 Pesus (Riberadel Duero); $750. If there’s any

such thing as the perfect Spanish red, Pesus is it.A blend of 80% Tempranillo with other grapesincluding Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine sees200% new oak, resulting in a thick, dark, tannicbeauty that bubbles over with toast, cola, mint,chocolate and spice aromas. The mouth is sheerheaven; a mile deep in terms of berry flavor andmore, but faultless and smooth. Shows outstand-ing structure and power, and should age well for15–20 years. Hails from two 100-year-old vine-yards and some baby vines with but 25 years ofage. Crazy expensive but only 150 cases weremade; drink 2013–2030. Imported by De MaisonSelections, Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.S.

98 Viña Sastre 2005 Regina Vides(Ribera del Duero); $195. From

vines that are between 80 and 100 years, this is amarvelous example of top-notch Spanish redwine, regardless of region and grape variety. Hailsfrom four vineyards, and the product is dark, con-centrated, sultry, masculine and impressive. Giantblack fruit flavors, texture, richness, coffee andcola make it truly special. Drinkable now; best in3–5 more years. Imported by De Maison Selec-tions, Inc. —M.S.

97 Aalto 2006 PS (Ribera del Duero);$115. A beautiful but enormous style of

red wine with char, leather and saturated blackfruit aromas. There’s also some lemony oak thatwill shed itself with time. Overall, it’s rich, deli-cious and a real fruit bomb with chocolate,vanilla, caramel, coffee and mocha, all of whichare reflections of the oak aging it sees. PS standsfor s seleccionados, and it’s really an example ofthe new school in full session. Best 2013–2017due to its heft and extraction. Imported by Euro-pean Cellars. Cellar Selection. —M.S.

96 Aalto 2006 Tempranillo (Ribera delDuero); $55. Mariano Garcia’s deft

winemaking touch and propensity for makingmonster RDDs is etched into this massive,extracted heavyweight, and wow is it good! Aftera touch of early heat, there’s dusty black fruit aro-mas, spice galore, floral notes and then a huge

palate of raw blackness and finally an explosion ofcreamy mocha, vanilla and woodspice. Needs acouple of more years but not 10 or 20. Importedby European Cellars. Cellar Selection. —M.S.

96 Viña Sastre 1999 Pago de SantaCruz Gran Reserva (Ribera del

Duero); $119. A classic wine with maturity butstill a lot to give. Aged 24 months in Americanoak then 12 more months in French barrels, thisGR is leathery and powerful, with firm tanninssupporting dry berry fruit flavors accented bycopious amounts of tobacco, mint, vanilla andmore. Will continue to age and soften; drink nowthrough 2025. Imported by De Maison Selec-tions, Inc. Cellar Selection. —M.S.

95 Monteabellón 2006 Finca La Blan-quera Tempranillo (Ribera del

Duero); $NA. Having only tasted this winery’sbasic RdDs, this single-vineyard whopper comesas a huge and pleasant surprise. The nose is pureas can be and driving, with richness, coffee andmore. The palate is juicy and intense, with boy-senberry, blackberry, toast and chocolate. Veryconcentrated and powerful; a wine that exudesand also inspires passion. Drink 2012–2021.Imported by JW Sieg Wines. Editors’ Choice.—M.S.

95 Vega Sicilia 2000 Unico (Ribera delDuero); $450. Like liquid silk, it’s so

smooth and supple. Aromas of fresh mountainherbs pour forth from the glass along with thescents of cherry, cough drop and dried spices.Very light on its feet with pronounced elegance asopposed to raw power. The palate is sleek andfeminine, with flavors of dried red fruits, rasp-berry and light medicinality. Spectacular as perusual, with 85% Tempranillo and 15% Cab Sauvi-gnon. Drink now–2025. Imported by Europvin.Editors’ Choice. —M.S.

94 Astrales 2007 Tempranillo (Riberadel Duero); $67. Shows almost all

that’s great about the region: dark, smoky, floralberry and chocolate aromas followed by juicy,acid-driven boysenberry, spice, bitter chocolateand peppery flavors. An excellent effort for atough vintage, with dynamite power and a poise.Drink 2012–2018. Imported by Grapes of Spain.—M.S.

94 Pago de los Capellanes 2006Reserva (Ribera del Duero); $54.

Sensational RDD Reserva with dry, smoky, ele-

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gant aromas and then a super-juicy, fresh, finelyetched palate with composed cola, cherry, rasp-berry and more. This wine exhibits merit aftermerit; it’s complex yet easy to like. Really excel-lent for the money. Drink 2011–2018. Importedby Antalva Imports. —M.S.

94 Viña Sastre 2006 Pago de SantaCruz Tempranillo (Ribera del

Duero); $84. A unique style of old-vines, single-vineyard Ribera aged 100% in new American oak,thus it delivers telltale aromas of fennel, dill,vanilla and licorice/anisette. Aged 18 months inbarrel so it’s oaky, but it’s also dark, loaded withblack fruit and spice, and chocolaty. Nuancesinclude cola and the perfect raisin. A lovely winethat hits the spot. Best 2012– 2020. Imported byDe Maison Selections, Inc. —M.S.

93 Alion 2006 Tempranillo (Ribera delDuero); $90. A lovely, modern-styled

wine with clean, pure elegance on the nose,palate and finish. It opens with a blast of toast,and then unfolds with fresh black fruit flavors,smooth but lively tannins, and nice touches ofheft, drive and simplicity. As good as Alion is, it’snot a complicated or overly complex wine. Best2011–2017. Imported by Europvin. Editors’Choice. —M.S.

93 Astrales 2006 Christina Tem-pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $87.

Not as expressive as other Astrales wines, but stillvery rich and bruising, with a smooth, lush, won-derful mouthfeel and attractive aromas. Concen-trated but not as voluminous as many RDDtop-rate wines, with flavors of fig, wild berry,chocolate and pepper. Lots to ponder here; anexcellent example of what this winery is capableof. Drink 2012–2020. Imported by Grapes ofSpain. —M.S.

93 Felix Callejo 2005 Seleccion deVinedos de la Familia Tempranillo

(Ribera del Duero); $100. A rich, deep styleof Tempranillo with earth and leather aromasalong with a lot of new oak. Violet in color, withmatching aromas of plum, berry, tobacco andchocolate. Pretty yet stout in the mouth, withintense berry fruit flavors and all the length onecould ask for. Rich and ready to drink, but canage until 2018 with no problem. Imported by TheArtisan Collection. —M.S.

93 Val Sotillo 2004 Reserva Tem-pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $60.

Wonderful on the bouquet, where earthy notesblend perfectly with alert, bright fruit aromas.This is a sizable, full-bodied wine with leather,lively fruit character and a dose of rich chocolate.It’s in excellent shape and shows impressive bal-ance and depth. Delicious to the core, with heftand noticeable oak that should lessen if givenmore time. Drink now–2019. Imported byTradewinds Specialty Imports. —M.S.

93 Vizcarra 2006 Ines Tempranillo(Ribera del Duero); $125. More

muscular and dark than its sibling Celia, withrich, jammy, sweet aromas of mocha and bakedberries. It’s an oaky style that works due to thewine’s massive concentration and structure. Itflows easily with no coarseness or roughness.Excellent and cut from the modern mold. Drinknow–2018. Imported by Ole Imports. —M.S.

92 Carmelo Rodero 2005 ReservaTempranillo (Ribera del Duero);

$NA. A very fruity, forward wine that’s rich andfriendly and quite delicious. The nose tips thingsoff with black plum, chocolate and other sweet,dense aromas, while the palate is full of boysen-berry, raspberry, cherry and fine tannins andoverall balance. Simply put, this is a fine RDDwith v ibrancy and lots of qual i ty. Drinknow–2018. —M.S.

92 Luis Cañas 2006 Hiru 3 RacimosTempranillo (Rioja); $118. Dense,

rich and well carved, with chocolate, balsamicnotes, moss and burnt toast to go with beefy blackfruit aromas. The palate is full, generous and notat all lazy, with blasting blackberry, cassis, tobaccoand toasty flavors. Acidic and tannic on one hand,but deep and pure on the other. It needs a fewmore years to knit together. Drink 2012–2018.Imported by Henriot Inc. —M.S.

92 Pago de los Capellanes 2004 ElPicón (Ribera del Duero); $240.

Bright, snappy and somewhat high in acidity, butalso vibrant and excellent as a whole. The fruitfalls squarely into the plum, raspberry and redcurrant spectrum, while that acidity pushes thewine to run and run. A dynamo with length, char-acter, structure and angularity. Probably not forthose who prefer dark, lush RDDs. Drinkablenow but could still use another five years of timeon its side. Imported by Antalva Imports. CellarSelection. —M.S.

92 Pago de los Capellanes 2005Parcela El Nogal Tempranillo (Rib-

era del Duero); $NA. A super-classy wine withintensity to spare. The nose and palate are bothhigh-toned and piercing, and red fruit aromas andflavors are supreme. Along with the currant andraspberry character, there’s mild medicinal fla-vors, cherry cough drop and lots of length andpower. Impressive for sure. Drink 2012–2020.Imported by Antalva Imports. —M.S.

92 Vega Sicilia 2005 Valbuena (Riberadel Duero); $190. Opens with classy

aromas of lavender, thyme, sage and medicinality,i.e. plum liqueur. Super-silky and smooth in themouth, with velvety tannins and an elegance notfound in most of the staunch, powerful wines ofthe region. Finishes almost creamy, with notes oftobacco, vanilla and cedar. 85% Tempranillo with15% Merlot and Malbec. Imported by Europvin.—M.S.

91 Garcia Figuero 2006 Tinus (Riberadel Duero); $599. A new specialty

wine from the Figuero family shows a meaty,roasted bouquet and some leather, while belowthe aromas there’s a palate that’s rich, profound,slightly baked in character and very sweet anddeep. A Yum Yum type of rich RDD with a finishdefined by baked blackberry and molasses.Drink now–2013. Imported by QuintessentialWines. —M.S.

91 Montecastro 2006 Tempranillo(Ribera del Duero); $45. Shows some

youthful spunk and minerality on the nose alongwith ample char and pepper. The palate is deepand layered with pure black fruit flavors, choco-late and mellow tannins, and overall there’s nooff aromas, tastes or textures to do battle with.Drink now–2015. Imported by Classical Wines.—M.S.

91 Val Sotillo 2006 Crianza (Riberadel Duero); $35. Vibrant and honest,

with expressive raspberry and cherry aromas andflavors accented by mint leaf, liqueur and cassis.Really hits the spot and then fades away in nohurry. A smoking-good crianza that hammershome the fact that Ismael Arroyo’s wines are stillleaders in RDD. Drink now–2015. Imported byTradewinds Specialty Imports. —M.S.

91 Viña Sastre 2007 Crianza Tem-pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $33.

Kicks off with a blend of herbs, wild flowers,

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lavender and toasty oak. It’s a fresh, clean, semi-rich RDD with beautiful berry fruit, chocolateand a slight bit of char. An exciting wine with deli-cious core flavors and no toughness, hard tanninsor heat. A bit dark and bitter on the finish, like agood espresso. Drink now–2014. Imported by DeMaison Selections, Inc. —M.S.

91 Vizcarra 2006 Celia Tempranillo(Ribera del Duero); $125. A bright

and very pretty wine that bursts with raspberryand plum aromas. The palate is finely balancedand clean as a whistle, and in general this small-production bottling represents the region grace-fully, but with some kick and power. It only getsricher and more serious with airing. Drink2012–2022. Imported by Ole Imports. —M.S.

90 Felix Callejo 2006 Reserva Tem-pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $40.

Rich and very good, with depth and a chocolatyessence that shows itself on the front and backends of the wine. Pure in terms of berry fruit fla-vors, and with good verve and mouthfeel. A bal-anced, spot-on wine with serious structure, styleand follow through. Drink now–2015. Importedby The Artisan Collection. —M.S.

90 O. Fournier 2006 Spiga Tem-pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $31.

Starts with dark, statuesque aromas led by min-eral, leather and wood smoke. A powerful,intense wine with clean, rich flavors of blackplum, chocolate and raisin. It’s a touch on thesweet and chewy side, with some tannic bite andheat, but overall it’s rock-solid and very nice.Drink now–2013. Imported by Fine EstatesFrom Spain. —M.S.

89 Carmelo Rodero 2007 CrianzaTempranillo (Ribera del Duero);

$NA. For an ’07, this shows nice fruit and adirect, honest approach. The nose offers up spiceand berry aromas along with some buttery oak,and that creamy woodiness carries onto the palateand blends well with juicy, crisp red fruit flavorsthat are representative of the vintage and region.Drink now–2014. —M.S.

89 Felix Callejo 2004 Gran ReservaTempranillo (Ribera del Duero);

$70. A wine that reflects its northern Riberalocation (Sotillo) through zesty, pointed aromasand some gritty char and minerality. The noseshows plenty of solid oak, chocolate and spice,and in the mouth the acids are a bit sharp and

thus the wine is kind of spiky and angular. Still, it’sa very nice RDD, just not as generous as it couldor should be. Drink now–2019. Imported by TheArtisan Collection. —M.S.

89 Montecastro 2007 Alconte Tem-pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $23.

Alconte is the new second wine from Montecas-tro, but it doesn’t take a back seat to anything.It’s powerful juice, with a strong mineral/floralelement on the bouquet. Aged only a year in oak,it maintains a crisp, charred character and showstight raspberry flavors, chocolate and pepper.Features all the right stuff for a debut wine froma strained vintage. Imported by Classical Wines.—M.S.

89 Neo 2007 Punta Esencia Tem-pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $95.

Floral and fruity, with clean aromas. In themouth, it’s saturated and intense as if offers up ameaty set of dense fruit flavors. Doesn’t show asmuch complexity, layering and variety as wemight like to see, but it’s pretty flashy and goodfor a 2007, a vintage that was problematic in thisregion. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S.

88 Neo 2007 Tempranillo (Ribera delDuero); $69. A good to very good wine

with medicinality on the nose that takes over thearomatics. There’s also the slightest bit of hardcheese and stem on the bouquet, so overall it isfighting an uphill battle. Along the way it deliversflavors of cough drop, cherry and a good, solidfinish. Imported by Grapes of Spain. —M.S.

88 Viña Sastre 2008 Roble Tem-pranillo (Ribera del Duero); $20.

Opens with young, punchy aromas of candiedraspberry and strawberry. The body is easygoingbut the flavors and overall character are morecomplex than you might expect because Sastreonly made this wine and a crianza in ’08 whileeschewing its high-end wines. With this youngsterexpect moderate size and intensity, and a full,semilong finish. Imported by De Maison Selec-tions, Inc. —M.S.

87 Protos 2005 Reserva Tempranillo(Ribera del Duero); $NA. Seems

more earthy and damp than you might expect,with minerally notes. Sort of fiery and rugged onthe palate, with tough tannins and only modestroundness and richness for a reserva-level winefrom a good vintage. Shows some bitter chocolate

on the finish. Needs another year in bottle to showbetter. Imported by RV Distributors. —M.S.

86 Protos 2007 Crianza Tempranillo(Ribera del Duero); $NA. A simple

but nice style of Ribera wine with open plum andberry aromas as well as snappy, juicy, fresh redfruit flavors. It’s a touch biting and zesty at thispoint, but if you don’t mind a little bite and zapit’s perfectly good. Imported by RV Distributors.—M.S.

84 Protos 2008 Roble Tempranillo(Ribera del Duero); $NA. Quite can-

died and jumpy on the nose, what some mightcall bug juice. Having spent six months in Ameri-can oak, it’s tight and tough on the palate, withfresh, juicy acidity that’s a bit scouring. Tastesmuch like milk chocolate and candied fruit.Imported by RV Distributors. —M.S.

RIOJA

93 Muga 2006 Torre Muga (Rioja);$94. Among the world’s bruising, full-

bodied wines, Torre Muga is a flag bearer. Thisvintage offers cola, pepper, coffee and sweetblackberry fruit aromas, and the palate is tannic,acidic, grabby and full of life. Flavors of black-berry, dark plum and spice are pure as they come,with espresso on the finish. Let this sit anotherfew years to allow the fierce tannins to mellow;best 2012–2017. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.

91 Muga 2006 Aro (Rioja); $201. Deepand lavishly oaked, with aromas of

toasted hickory, purple grapes, gaseous earth andblack, heavy fruit. Nothing is shy or subtle here;it’s an erupting volcano of hard black fruit, tannin,hickory smoke and heat. It shows flashes of ele-gance and potential but also a lot of raw power.Needs a minimum of 3–4 years of cellar time tosoften up. Tempranillo with 30% Graciano.Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. CellarSelection. —M.S.

91 Solabal 2006 Esculle de Solabal(Rioja); $118. A ruggedly dark and

modern Rioja with cola, rooty black fruit andburnt toast draped on a thick, mocha-laden nose.The palate is huge and grabby as well as rich andlovable, with black fruit, mocha, coffee ice creamand slight raisin flavors. Tannic and tough on thefinish, with spice, herbs and chocolate. Drink

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from 2011 through 2015. Imported by FineEstates From Spain. —M.S.

90 Baron De Ley 2004 7 Viñas Reserva(Rioja); $68. A rich, more modern type

of Rioja with dark color, slightly raisiny berry aro-mas and molasses, vanilla and mocha on the nose.The palate is full and chewy, with cola, fig andwild berry flavors. Stylish and creamy on the fin-ish, and very pleasant as a whole. 55% Tem-pranillo with four other grapes blended in,including Graciano and Garnacha. Imported byFrederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.

90 Finca Al lende 2006 Calvario(Rioja); $145. A fine wine but not up to

par with previous renditions. This vintage hasproprietary blueberry, floral and jammy aromas,while the palate is narrow and a touch sheeringand tannic, with jammy dark berry flavors and nota lot of variety or complexity. Forward, linear andmonotone, but what’s here is quite good. Drinknow–2013. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. —M.S.

90 Marqués de Campo Nuble 2006Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja); $22.

Full and spicy from the get-go, with hints of clovevying with savory berry and leather. The optimumword to describe this wine is friendly, meaning itdelivers ripeness, berry flavors and sweet, spicyaccents that complete the package. Leans towardbaked and sweet but keeps things properlyframed. Imported by USA Wine West. —M.S.

90 Sierra Cantabria 2006 CrianzaTempranillo (Rioja); $19. Like almost

all wines from this label, the welcome mat isrolled out. The nose shows textbook tea, herb,black cherry and leathery notes, while the palateis round, pure in feel, and full, with sous bois,light oak and dark fruit flavors. Long and persist-ent on the finish. A wine that gets it right.Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

89 Marqués de Campo Nuble 2006Campo Burgo Reserva Tempranillo

(Rioja); $20. Roasted and charred, with a a clearand present barrel influence along with thyme,herbs and tomato leaf. In the mouth, it’s sweetand ready, with ripe berry flavors touched up bycocoa. Toasty and a little minty on the finish, butflavorful and perfectly good as a whole. Importedby USA Wine West. —M.S.

88 Altanza 2007 Capitoso Tem-pranillo (Rioja); $16. Good, pure,

dark and teetering on powerful, with strong, richblack plum aromas. The mouth is staunch andbalanced, with full dark fruit flavors of blackberryalong with bitter chocolate. Solid and cleanthroughout. A winner in its price range. Importedby The Artisan Collection. —M.S.

88 Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2006Rioja Bordón Crianza Tempranillo

(Rioja); $12. A nice, floral, medium-bodiedRioja that should not steer anyone wrong. Thenose is harmonized and not overpowering, whilethe feel is good and easy and the flavors of berry,plum and mild chocolaty oak work well together.Holds its line on the finish as well. Imported byAdmiral Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.

88 Bodegas Valdemar 2006 Conde deValdemar Crianza Tempranillo

(Rioja); $15. In many ways, this is Valdemar’sbest wine in that it’s always consistent and satisfy-ing. The nose on this vintage offers a blast ofsweet coconut and then black fruit aromas, andwhile there’s acidity front and center it doesn’tcome across sharp. Instead, the focus is on plumand raspberry fruit and a finish that picks upsteam. Imported by CIV/USA. —M.S.

88 Castillo Labastida 2004 Reserva(Rioja); $22. Nice wine with standard

Rioja aromas of raspberry, vanilla, licorice anddill. The palate has life and kick due to protrud-ing acidity, while the flavor profile is based onsnappy, high-toned plum and red berry. Softer onthe finish, where butter and vanilla notes rise up.Drinkable now but will hold for another fewyears. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.

88 Marques de Tomares 2006 Crianza(Rioja); $19. Falls into the dark and

roasted category, with aromas of leather, blackfruits and toast. The palate is saturated and full,with dark, roasted black fruit, molasses and spiceflavors. Warm on the finish almost to the point ofbeing hot, but not quite. A very solid wine overall.Imported by Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S.

88 R a m i re z d e l a P i s c i n a 2 0 0 4Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja); $20.

Familiar aromas of black fruit, licorice and earthget it going, followed by saturated body weightthat reaches all corners of the mouth while dis-playing earthy, chunky blackberry and blackcherry flavors. Flush, comfortable and slightly

heavy. Drink now through 2012. Imported byFine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

87 Pagos del Rey 2007 El Circulo Cri-anza (Rioja); $14. Sort of scratchy and

generic on the nose, with reasonably fresh redfruit aromas. The mouthfeel is angular andclipped by piercing acidity, while the flavors areof nice but regular black cherry and plum. Fairlyjuicy and fresh as a whole. Imported by LuneauUSA Inc. —M.S.

87 Bodegas San Prudencio 2007Envite Crianza (Rioja); $22. Opens

with sweet fruit aromas, a whiff of oak and redcandy, while the mouthfeeel is juicy and mostlyfresh, with clean fruit flavors and more than ade-quate ripeness and sweetness. Fresh, composedand pleasant in the scheme of things. Importedby The Artisan Collection. —M.S.

87 Finca del Marquesado 2006 Cri-anza (Rioja); $10. Composed, bal-

anced and with all the dots connected; this iswhat we like about basic, affordable Rioja. It’sfleshy yet fresh, with snappy cherry and raspberryflavors accented by a wave of vanilla that contin-ues onto the finish. Blends good flavors, weightand acidic crispness. Imported by CIV/USA. BestBuy. —M.S.

86 Altanza 2004 Lealtanza SelecciónEspecial Reserva Tempranillo

(Rioja); $36. A chunky wine with compost, cof-fee and leather on the nose. The palate holdsonto that chunkiness with clumsy flatness thatgoes with herbal plum and berry flavors. Airingallows it to unfold and find a better place, butalways does it seem heavy and on the murky side.Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S.

86 Bodegas Bilbainas 2007 Viña ZacoTempranillo (Rioja); $15. Opens with

bright, popping cherry aromas that are straight-forward, much like the rest of the show. Thepalate is regular and healthy in feel, with stan-dard cherry and raspberry flavors. Finishes theslightest bit toasty and warm. Nice but basicRioja. Imported by Aveniu Brands, Inc. —M.S.

86 Bodegas Palacio 2007 GloriosoTempranillo (Rioja); $10. Mildly

earthy, leathery and light in color, with rooty aro-mas and tree bark on the nose. The palate is good,maybe a bit sharp and angular, with savory flavorsof tomato, red plum and earth. Dry on the finish

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and good for everyday consumption. Imported byHAB North America. Best Buy. —M.S.

86 Finca Nueva 2006 Crianza Tem-pranillo (Rioja); $15. Grapey and

potent as Rioja crianzas go, with a medium-to-full-sized palate that’s full of bright acidity andstandard but solid berry fruit flavors. It’s theslightest bit creamy and thick on the finish, butoverall it’s about as middle of the road as any wineon the market. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. —M.S.

85 Marques de Tomares 2007 DonRomán (Rioja); $15. A standard Rio-

jano red with crisp cherry aromas followed by azesty, slightly tart palate that carries punchy cherryfruit, acidity and little nuance or character. Tastesa tiny bit sour by today’s measurements, but it’sstill pretty good for being crisp and acid-driven.Imported by Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S.

85 Vallobera 2004 Reserva Tem-pranillo (Rioja); $29. For an ’04

reserva, this wine is more edgy, grabby and highin acid than expected. The nose shows old worldleather, spearmint and smoked meat more thanvibrant fruit, yet the palate is tangy, citric andtastes of red raspberry and plum. Slightly morecreamy on the finish, but still it remains scratchy.Imported by Axial Wines USA. —M.S.

84 B o d e g a s V a l d e m a r 2 0 0 7Inspiración Valdemar (Rioja); $20.

Smells a little too much like berry candy andcough syrup to win you over, and the palate iskind of flat and chunky as well as thick withcreamy berry fruit. Points of acidic bite give itlife, but things are brought back down on the fin-ish with green, creamy oak notes. Imported byCIV/USA. —M.S.

84 Campo Viejo 2006 Crianza Tem-pranillo (Rioja); $10. Fairly light and

leathery, with strained aromas of animal hide andburnt berry fruit. The palate feel is light tomedium, with scratchiness, and the flavors are ofroasted fruit, leather and dryness. Spice and aslight bitterness define the finish. Has a fewissues but still a good wine for $10. Imported byPernod Ricard. —M.S.

84 Dinastía Vivanco 2007 CrianzaTempranillo (Rioja); $18. Aromas of

chocolate mint, creamy vanilla and candy reflect aheavy-handed oak treatment, and a sweet burnt

cherry and chocolate mint character is presentthroughout. Creamy on the tongue, but con-fected in terms of flavors and finish. Imported byOpici Import Company. —M.S.

84 Marqués de Campo Nuble 2007Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja); $15.

Somewhat stewy and leathery for starters, with athick, creamy palate that shows stemmy, roastedplum and berry flavors. The feel is solid andthick, but the flavors don’t really come aroundand settle. Imported by USA Wine West. —M.S.

83 Rioja Vega 2007 Crianza (Rioja);$12. Smells fairly burnt and dull, with

earthy, stemmy aromas that are strained andtough. The palate reflects the nose with heavy,roasted, leathery plum flavors that finish with ameaty thud. Rustic and stemmy, with a low pulse.Imported by Winebow. —M.S.

TORO

90 Finca Sobreño 2005 SeleccionEspecial (Toro); $35. Earthy, rich and

black as night, with roasted blackberry aromasthat draw you in. Then the palate keeps youthere, and even if it runs a bit hard and tannic,the integrity and flavors of coconut, roasted berryand coffee are fine and dandy. Boisterous and big,but that’s Toro for you. Imported by Kysela Pèreet Fils. —M.S.

86 Tardencuba 2005 Crianza Tem-pranillo (Toro); $22. Starts out mud-

dled and murky, and eventually settles on rich,raisiny and slightly stewed. Seeing that this isToro, some overripeness is almost a given, andthus the black fruit and licorice flavors areexpected. Finishes warm, toasty and short, with acandied hollowness. Imported by The ArtisanCollection. —M.S.

84 Bodega Carmen Rodríguez 2005Carodorum Tinta de Toro Crianza

(Toro); $35. Opens with vinaigrette and bal-samic notes along with leather and black fruit aro-mas. The palate is soft and muddled, with soupy,stewy flavors and a jagged, candied finish. Seemsto struggle for balance, which is a common flawin many Toro wines. Imported by The ArtisanCollection. —M.S.

84 Bodegas Farina 2004 Gran Damade Toro Tempranillo (Toro); $45.

Sweet and fiery on the nose, with piercing aromasthat burn right up your nasal passages. The palateis pinched and super tannic, with biting flavors ofblack licorice, blackberry and cola. Could be bet-ter with a softer, smoother mouthfeel but seeingthat this is an ’04 with six years behind it, it isn’tgoing to soften up much. Imported by SpecialtyCellars. —M.S.

83 Marqués de Olivara 2005 Reserva(Toro); $14. Balsamic and hard, with a

briney, stemmy set of chemical-tinged black fruitaromas. The palate hits with force and noise; it’shard, tannic and unforgiving. The flavors of bakedberry are rich, but the finish is grating and blazeswith tannic burn. Imported by USA Wine West.—M.S.

CAMPO DE BORJA

92 Alto Moncayo 2007 Garnacha(Campo de Borja); $45. Excellent

Garnacha in very modern dressing. The nose issweet, candied, lightly baked and rich, with hintsof prune, coconut and fine aged cheese. Thepalate is smooth and deep, with blackberry,molasses and licorice flavors. Sturdy and studlywine, with weight and only a pinch of heat andbite. Six hundred cases produced; drinknow–2012. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. —M.S.

91 Alto Moncayo 2007 Aquilon Gar-nacha (Campo de Borja); $161.

Smoky, toasty and rich, with no shortage of powerand fire in the hole. The palate is meaty anddense, with black fruit, black pepper and heat.But even with the unavoidable heat the wineshows balance along with attractive finishing fla-vors of fig, beef jerky, licorice and chocolate.Undeniably big and powerful at 16.5% alcohol.Drink soon, and with food. Otherwise it mightseem too hot and burning. Imported by FineEstates From Spain. —M.S.

91 Alto Moncayo 2007 Veraton Gar-nacha (Campo de Borja); $28.

Smoky, roasted and spicy on the nose, with berryfruit, licorice and black pepper scents. Definitelya warm, ripe, chunky wine with smooth black-berry, chocolate and mocha flavors. Big and withplenty of oak, but the integration and overall bal-ance are commendable. Best now through 2012.Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

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90 Borsao 2008 Tres Picos Garnacha(Campo de Borja); $17. Tres Picos,

or Three Peaks, ranks as a go-to wine for fans ofround, smooth, slightly oaky reds. The bouquet isall mocha and smoky/oaky richness, while thesticky, rich palate deals blackberry and chewy,rooty medicinality. Oaky and spicy late, withlicorice and warmth. The best thing is that it’s notheavy or overextracted despite being youthful andmodern in style. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. —M.S.

90 Pagos del Moncayo 2008 Gar-nacha (Campo de Borja); $30.

Immediately this wine stands out from mostAragón-region Garnachas. It’s deep and poised,with smoky blackberry aromas. The palate isdeftly woven, saturated and meaty but alsocreamy and smooth, with mocha and controlledtannins. Freshness is not lost despite its modern,clean power. Drink now through 2013. Importedby Axial Wines USA. —M.S.

89 Borsao 2007 Crianza Selección(Campo de Borja); $16. This is a

really good example of a blended wine fromAragón. It’s 50% Garnacha with 25% each Tem-pranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, and thus it ismore complex and interesting than your run-of-the-mill varietal Grenache. Mellow aromas of ripefruit and spice open things up, followed by bal-anced flavors of berry fruits, vanilla and cream.Easygoing and highly recommended for the price.Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

88 Quo 2008 Old Vines Grenache(Campo de Borja); $15. Deep and

earthy smelling, with meatiness, black fruit andhickory notes to the bouquet. The wine offersconcentration and thickness, with ripe, slightlymedicinal flavors of plum and blackberry. Thesame goes for the finish, and overall this is amedium-to-full Grenache that gets it done.Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S.

87 Almira 2009 Los Dos Old VinesGrenache-Syrah (Campo de Borja);

$8. Like most base-level Garnachas, this one hasa sweet, candied aromatic cover. But unlike manyit has depth, purity and avoids boring, offensivesweetness. The flavors of raspberry and boysen-berry are bright, and it maintains balance andintegrity through the finish. A nice wine for under$10. Imported by Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.

87 B o r s a o 2 0 0 9 V i ñ a B o r g i aGrenache (Campo de Borja); $6. A

steal for six bucks; the nose is floral and black,but under control. Meanwhile, the palate isbouncy, round and balanced, with juicy blackplum and wild berry flavors. Clean and solid.Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy.—M.S.

86 Borsao 2009 Monte Oton Gar-nacha (Campo de Borja); $7. Here’s

another good value red from Borsao. It’s about aspotent and packed a wine as you’ll find for $7,and while it’s jumpy, young and aggressive, it’salso full of jammy black fruit, sticky extractionand firm tannins. A classic mouthfiller withspunk, color and heft. Imported by Fine EstatesFrom Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.

86 Pagos del Moncayo 2008 TintoJoven Garnacha-Syrah (Campo de

Borja); $17. Piercing to start, with leathery,bacony and campfire aromas. Saturated, althoughhealthy, if a bit hard and tannic. Flavors of baconand clove are right up there with black fruit andsyupy richness, and clove carries onto the finish.Needs time to breathe and unfold; 65% Garnachaand 35% Syrah. Imported by Axial Wines USA.—M.S.

84 Coto de Hayas 2008 Tinto (Campode Borja); $8. Simple at best early on,

with leathery, rustic aromas and a truly basic setof flavors. Should you allow it to breathe, itrounds into a good (but still basic), semisoft andfruity red with solid cherry/berry flavors andnothing offputting. Imported by ScopertaImporting Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.

CALATAYUD

92 Bodegas Ateca 2007 Atteca ArmasOld Vines Garnacha (Calatayud);

$45. Potent, deep and lush, with minty aromasand a lot more wild berry and tobacco than any-thing crisp or piquant. The palate is lush andpacked full of ripe berry and black plum, whilethe finish is spirited, ripe, full and lusty. A rich,dark style of wine for modern palates. Ready nowand over the next two years. Imported by FineEstates From Spain. —M.S.

87 Bodegas Ateca 2008 Atteca OldVines Garnacha (Calatayud); $16.

Minty black cherry aromas give it a solid opening,

but there’s also some mild cleanser and paintscents to the nose. The palate is basic, snappy,fresh and carries good weight, while the flavorsare sweet, berry-oriented and softened by vanilla.A good Grenache with good balance. Importedby Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

86 Bodegas y Vinedos de Jalón 2008Viña Alarba Old Vines Grenache

(Calatayud); $10. The opening of smoke, rub-ber and black cherry comes across as being darkand good. The palate holds form with livelycherry, plum and currant flavors and finally amedium-long, somewhat warm and meaty finish.Good for an everyday, no-frills Garnacha.Imported by The Artisan Collection. Best Buy.—M.S.

85 Bodegas y Vinedos de Jalón 2008Los Pinos Old Vines Grenache

(Calatayud); $13. Clean, fruity and snappy,with pointed red fruit aromas and flavors as wellas higher than normal acidity. Tastes fresh andforward and entirely straightforward, with a hol-low but easy finish and mild but controlled sharp-ness. Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S.

85 Cruz de Piedra 2007 Capricho Gar-nacha (Calatayud); $20. Aromas of

pine, rubber and rhubarb are austere, and so isthe rest of the wine. The palate is run by acidity,which is sharp and scouring. Flavors are tart andunderdone, with pie cherry and red raspberry.Sheering but admittedly cleansing, with surprisingsourness. Imported by Axial Wines USA. —M.S.

84 Garnacha de Fuego 2009 Gar-nacha (Calatayud); $8. Neon purple

in color, young and jumpy, but hey, that’s whatsimple Garnacha from this part of Spain is allabout. Expect fruity, jammy aromas and a blazing,full-fruited palate of rubber, black fruits andbacon. It’s grapey but honest, and for the price it’sas expected. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. Best Buy. —M.S.

PENEDÈS

94 To r r e s 2 0 0 6 R e s e r v a R e a l(Penedès); $160. A beauty of a wine,

with black plum, berry, cocoa, sandalwood andmoss on the nose. The palate is huge but per-fectly balanced, with flavors of tobacco, black-berry and cassis. The blend is straight fromBordeaux (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc and

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Merlot), but everything else screams Spain. Pure,long, smooth and easy in terms of tannic bite,with good aging potential. Drink 2012–2020.Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Editors’Choice. —M.S.

93 Torres 2006 Mas La Plana Caber-net Sauvignon (Penedès); $63.

Mocha, toasty smoke and pure berry aromas ringthe bell, and the palate follows with fine balanceand flavors of vanilla-infused raspberry, plum andcassis. A little rich and creamy now but still struc-tured and ageable for another 10 years. A seri-ously good Spanish Cabernet with world-classcharacter. Best from 2013–2018. Imported byDreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.S.

92 Torres 2007 Mas La Plana Caber-net Sauvignon (Penedès); $63. An

opening salvo of coffee, tobacco and pure berryfruit give this Cabernet a fine lift-off. The palateexhibits freshness and full-bodied power, whilethe flavors run toward deep black fruits, tobacco,herbs, vanilla and cocoa. Long and rich as well onthe finish. Best to set this aside for at least fouryears before revisiting, but drinkable now withdecanting. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.Cellar Selection. —M.S.

NAVARRA

85 Dominio Lasierpe 2007 Flor deLasierpe Viñas Viejas Garnacha

(Navarra); $22. For a higher-priced wine, thishas some issues. The nose is heavy and murky,with leathery, baked aromas. In the mouth, it’ssomewhat choppy and acidic, thus punctuatingthe cherry tomato portion of the earth-and-leather flavor profile. Lingering oak accents thefinish, which is zesty and leans toward sour.Imported by Weisler Imports, LLC. —M.S.

84 Bodegas la Casa de Lúcolo 2008J a rd í n d e L ú c o l o G a r n a c h a

(Navarra); $20. Begins with pasty, lactic aro-mas and heavy fruit. The palate is both big andclumsy, with sharp acidity amid bulk leading tochoppy plum and medicinal cherry flavors. Aclacky wine with power but not much finesse.Imported by Axial Wines USA. —M.S.

84 Castillo de Monjardin 2008 LaCantera Garnacha (Navarra); $8.

Starts with tough, almost harsh green aromas onthe nose, but with time it settles on herbs and

tobacco. The palate is fresh but a touch spiky andgrabby, with herbal plum and berry flavors. Solidmouthfeel and length make it worthwhile even ifit’s herbal and slightly green tasting. Imported byWinebow. Best Buy. —M.S.

OTHER SPANISH REDS

90 Cellers Sant Rafel 2007 SolpostFresc (Montsant); $19. An impressive

Montsant blend of Grenache, Cabernet andSyrah with a purple color and friendly black fruitaromas. Not overly complex but deeply drawnand balanced. The plum, fresh raisin and black-berry flavors are smooth and structured, andoverall flavor and liveliness are key attributes.Drink now through 2012. Imported by ParadorSelections, LLC. —M.S.

89 Gonzalez Byass 2005 Finca Mon-cloa Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah

(Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz); $35. Concen-trated and solid, but not a wrecking ball. Thenose offers tobacco and earthy aromas, while thepalate is jammy and smooth, with sweet flavors ofblackberry, fig and tobacco. Spicy enough andpretty long on the finish, with another wave oftobacco. Almost too ripe but not quite. 70%Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah, as is the 87-point 2006 vintage. Imported by San FranciscoWine Exchange. —M.S.

88 Viñas del Vero 2007 La Mirandade Secastilla Garnacha (Somon-

tano); $15. Sweet and full of raspberry aromas,foresty scents and sandalwood. Overall it’s a well-made, intriguing Grenache with a fleshy, sturdybody and deep cherry, berry and chocolate fla-vors. It’s a bit tannic, but that only helps the struc-ture. Finishes nicely, with dry spice and vanillanotes . Imported by San Francisco WineExchange. —M.S.

88 Volver 2008 Tempranillo (La Man-cha); $16. Dark as night and thick, with

heavy, modern aromas of shoe polish, bacon andripe, roasted black fruits. The feel is concen-trated and healthy, while the flavors run very ripeand dark, with plenty of oak thrown in. Finishesrich, with bacon, resin, black pepper and someburn. Seems more jacked up than its listed14.5% alcohol. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. —M.S.

87 Gonzalez Byass 2006 Finca Mon-cloa Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah

(Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz); $35. A bitearthy and leafy on the nose and palate, withlightweight strawberry and raspberry aromas andflavors. The wine has a clacky, almost metallic feelto it along with hints of tobacco and green bean.Vanilla and sweetness push the finish, which isalso slightly green. Hails from Cádiz in south-western Spain. Imported by San Francisco WineExchange. —M.S.

86 Agricola Falset-Marca 2007 ÈtimOld Vines Grenache (Montsant);

$27. More basic and strained than prior winesfrom this producer. The nose is rubbery andcheesy at first, with leather and blackberry. Hard,tannic and acidic as well, and only a little softerwith airing. Flavors are of snappy, tough cherryand berry, and the finish shows tannic bite. Couldimprove some with aging; now it’s a tough go.Imported by North American Beverage Group.—M.S.

86 Finca Antigua 2007 Garnacha (LaMancha); $12. Kicks off with minty

coconut aromas and prune, then a hint of creamygreen. The palate shows proper acidity and tan-nin balance, so the framing for the wine’s rasp-berry flavors is good. Grabby but fresh on thefinish, with just enough grapey richness.Imported by MJM Imports. —M.S.

85 Bodegas Tempore 2005 Viña Cen-turia Garnacha (Vino de la Tierra

del Bajo Aragón); $17. Rusty in hue, withmature, slightly old aromas of leather, gym bag,dried leaves and mature berry. The palate hasdepth and concentration, while the flavors areherbal and run toward baked black cherry andtobacco. Caramel and mature fruit flavors vie forcontrol of the roasted finish. Imported by RVDistributors. —M.S.

85 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos 2005Corona d’Aragón Reserva (Car-

iñena); $18. Quite an oaky wine, with aromas ofBBQ, hickory, roasted plum and spice. The bodyis full but scratchy, with additional oak manifest-ing itself in the form of baked, rooty, vanilla fla-vors that override the wine’s simple but quiet fruitcontent. Finishes dark and toasty, with coffee,mocha and vanilla flavors. Imported by GreatWines & Vineyards. —M.S.

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85 Spartico NV Organic Wine Tem-pranillo (Utiel-Requena); $12. A

clean, nice, regular Tempranillo with normalblack cherry and berry aromas that offer hints ofrubber and bacon. The palate is tannic andgrabby but balanced for the most part, with pure,basic blackberry and cherry flavors. Modest in itsscope, but fresh and untainted. Imported by Nat-ural Merchants LLC. —M.S.

84 Alvear 2006 Palacio Quemado Cri-anza Tempranillo (Ribera del Gua-

diana); $15. Palacio Quemado, which meansthe Burnt Pa lace , i s a funky wine f romExtremadura that mixes forceful floral aromaswith barnyard and grape juice scents. It’s a fuller-bodied, grabby wine with chunky, medicinal fla-vors and a finish that meanders before settling onbig and herbal. Has its good points and weak-nesses. Imported by Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S.

84 Ermita San Antonio 2009 Tem-pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de

Castilla); $8. Slightly vinegary on the cherry-laden nose, with a mild but persistent brineycharacter. The palate is high in acid, leading tosome scour, but the flavors of plum and berry,while generic, are pretty good. Finishes with hintsof toast, pepper and spice. Solid enough for $8.Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. BestBuy. —M.S.

84 Venta Morales 2009 Tempranillo(La Mancha); $7. Jammy, dark and

reduced, with breadth along with leather andcompost aromas. The palate is leathery, funky andmedicinal, with viscosity and creamy berry fla-vors. Has richness and body but the flavors andcongruety are sketchy until you remember that itcosts but $7. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. Best Buy. —M.S.

83 Bodegas Farina 2009 PeromatoTempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de

Castilla y León); $9. Sweet, plummy and unre-fined on both the nose and palate. This is nothingmore than simple juice that isn’t terrible. It’sgrapey, sweet and tart, with an edgy bit of tang tothe finish. Regular at best; subpar if you’re beingcritical. Imported by Specialty Cellars. —M.S.

83 Bodegas Piqueras 2008 Castillo deAlmansa Tintorera Garnacha

(Almansa); $10. Mint, carob and green-tingedfruit aromas precede an herbal-tasting palate with

olive-influenced plum, berry and cola flavors.From down south in Spain, it shows pretty goodbody and an okay mouthfeel, but the flavor pro-file is a litte funky and strange. Imported byWinebow. —M.S.

83 Finca Milena 2009 Tempranillo(Utiel-Requena); $7. Strawberry and

raspberry aromas come on with aggression, andthe bouquet doesn’t really evolve. The palate iscrisp, snappy and high in acid, with grating redcherry and red plum flavors. Decent red fruitcharacter throughout but not much feel or depth.Imported by Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S.

83 Legado Muñoz 2009 Tempranillo(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla); $10.

Jammy aromas mix with grassy green notes infront of a sweet, chunky palate that offers uncon-vincing, generic berry flavors. Devoid of eleganceand character but loaded with heft and bakedfruit. A sweet, rudimentary wine. Imported byThe Artisan Collection. —M.S.

82 Bodegas Iranzo 2009 Vertus Tem-pranillo (Utiel-Requena); $10.

Jammy and flat smelling, with little to no depth tothe nose. The palate is snappy but there’s justenough body to offset the acidity, while the fla-vors of red fruits are tart and regular. Dull tasting,with a fairly long finish that’s unexciting.Imported by Natural Merchants LLC. —M.S.

82 Montgó 2009 Picos del MontgóTempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de

Castilla); $9. Hard, pickled aromas settle onleathery and burnt after airing. The palate isjammy and sticky, with sweet, heavy, roasted,burnt-tasting black fruit flavors. Resiny as well.Tempranillo with 10% Syrah. Imported byRegency Wine Group. —M.S.

82 Bodegas y Vinos de Lécera NVEsenzia Garnacha (Vino de la

Tierra del Bajo Aragón); $9. A green, strug-gling wine from front to back. The nose kicks upunderripe aromas to go with distant red fruit,while the palate is edgy and prickly, with highacidity creating snappy cherry and green flavors.Imported by RV Distributors. —M.S.

81 Bodegas Pirineos 2008 Mesache(Somontano); $11. Jammy smelling

but also lean and minty. The palate is almost sour,a bit better later on, but never does it rise abovetight, lean and tart. Mesache means youthful but

youth is wasted on the young in this case. Gar-nacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and the indige-nous Parraleta. Imported by Winebow. —M.S.

SPAINWHITE WINESRÍAS BAIXAS

89 Dom Bardo 2008 Albariño (RíasBaixas); $16. Delicious and ready to

drink. The nose brims with lemon peel, mineral-ity, saline and natural vanilla. In the mouth, it’shealthy and ready to go, with citrusy lead flavorsalong with requisite green apple. Still fresh andcrisp despite having been released a year ago. Awine to enjoy immediately. Imported by FineEstates From Spain. —M.S.

89 Terras Gauda 2009 Abadia de SanCampio Albariño (Rías Baixas);

$20. Lemon, apple blossom and honey aromasmake for a correct, attractive bouquet. Mean-while, the palate is typically crisp and vibrant,with cutting acids that push the pineapple andcitrus flavors to a point. Long and exact on thefinish, and overall there’s not an ounce of flab tothis streamlined white. Imported by AveniuBrands, Inc. —M.S.

88 La Cana 2009 Albariño (RíasBaixas); $16. Smooth, fresh aromas

suggest apple blossoms and sea air. The palateoffers a proper zesty mouthfeel, zingy acidity, nat-ural creaminess and nice flavors of green apple,sour melon and pineapple. At the end, lemonyzap and lemongrass grace the finish. Imported byFine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

87 Don Olegario 2009 Albariño (RíasBaixas); $22. Pungent and sweaty

smelling on first blush, almost suggesting Verdejoor Sauvignon Blanc. It remains oily and nettledon the nose, with sharpness. Sooner rather thanlater it softens, unveiling flavors of green melon,passionfruit and citrus. And the finish goes outwith snap, orange and grapefruit. Potent for thevariety. Imported by Kobrand. —M.S.

86 Pazo de Barrantes 2008 Pazo Bar-rantes Albariño (Rías Baixas); $19.

Husky on the nose but mostly it comes across aswild, with jumpy, loud pear, melon and apple aro-mas. The mouth is spunky and all over the map,

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while flavors of tangy yellow fruits carry an acidic,herbal twinge and even a grassy quality. Lacksperfect poise but it can’t be called timid or dull.Imported by Maisons Marques & DomainesUSA. —M.S.

RIOJA

89 F inca Al lende 2007 Al lende(Rioja); $36. Yellowing to the eye, with

waxy vanilla aromas along with toasty lemon andapple scents. For an ’07 it’s hanging in well even ifit’s creamy and rich, with banana and lemoncream pie flavors. Best to drink now; 70% Viuraand 30% Malvasia. Imported by Fine EstatesFrom Spain. —M.S.

89 Muga 2009 Barrel Fermented(Rioja); $16. Clean lines and fresh, oak-

tinged aromas is what this Viura (with 10% Mal-vasia) is all about. The nose starts with lemon,green apple and a spot of vanilla, while the juicypalate brings bright white fruits, toasty oak andsmoke. Not overly complex but not rudimentaryor dull. A nice food wine and probably the bestbarrel-fermented white from Muga we’ve tried.Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

88 Finca Nueva 2008 Viura (Rioja);$15. From Miguel Angel de Gregorio of

Finca Allende, this is a nice, thorough, creamywhite with aromas of white fruits, vanilla andstraw. The palate has spiced peach, apple andpear flavors, and the finish is exceedingly creamyand deep. Shows elegance and adequate power,but needs to be drunk soon. Imported by FineEstates From Spain. —M.S.

88 Marqués de Murrieta 2005 Capel-lanía (Rioja); $26. For those who like

an old-school, oxidized style of white Rioja (thinkLópez de Heredia), Murrieta’s Capellanía is upyour alley. The nose is almost like Sherry in itscreamy, maderized state, while the palate is lowin power, with coconut and lemon flavors. Fin-ishes soft, with vanilla. A unique, identifiablewhite wine that’s not for everyone. Drink now.Imported by Maisons Marques & DomainesUSA. —M.S.

88 Sierra Cantabria 2008 Organza(Rioja); $29. Broad, bold and buttery,

with aromas of toasted white peach, flower blos-som, vanilla and mild oxidation. The blend is 65%Viura with Malvasia and white Garnacha, and

overall it’s a round, stout, creamy wine with apple,vanilla and toasty, resiny flavors and finishingnotes. A little heavy and sticky but nice for barrel-aged white Rioja. Imported by Fine EstatesFrom Spain. —M.S.

RUEDA

91 Shaya 2008 Habis Old VinesVerdejo (Rueda); $30. Butter, toast

and resiny aromas tell you immediately that it’sbarrel fermented, but unlike some of the compe-tition, this wine manages to hold onto its core ofgreen apple, white peach and pear without lettingthe oak interfere. Excellent with food, and itimproves rapidly with each ten-minute interval. Agreat example of oak-aged Verdejo. Drink now.Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

90 José Par iente 2009 Verde jo(Rueda); $23. Fresh, perky, sweaty and

citric on the nose, which all creates a textbookbouquet. The palate is slightly spritzy, with fla-vors of passionfruit, pineapple and sweet whitegrapefruit. Fresh yet a little fleshy, with a long,zesty finish. Drink as soon as possible to capturethe essence of a fine vintage. Imported by Grapesof Spain. —M.S.

90 Shaya 2009 Old Vines Verdejo(Rueda); $15. As far as value-priced

Ruedas go, this is at the top of the heap. The noseis forward, clean as glass and not too pungent ordemanding. Solid as can be across the tongue,with green fruit flavors that shine and don’t forcethe issue. Crystalline and pure from start to fin-ish. Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. BestBuy. —M.S.

89 Cuatro Rayas 2009 Viñedos Cen-tenarios Verdejo (Rueda); $18.

Pungent, grassy and ultrafresh, with citric aromasand textbook scents of wild grass, nettles and pas-sionfruit. The palate is similar, with passionfruit,green melon and citrus front and center. The feelis wet and flashy, and overall this is a very nicewine to match with salads, fish and the like.Imported by The Artisan Collection. —M.S.

88 Emina 2009 Verdejo (Rueda); $11.Crisp, clean and nice on the nose, with a

hint of white pepper. The palate is round and notoverly acidic, making it friendly and endowedwith mass appeal. Flavors of green melon and cit-rus are smooth and not too demanding, while the

finish is easy and clean. A welcome entry into theland of Rueda and its Verdejo. Imported by VinosLibres. Best Buy. —M.S.

SPAINSPARKLINGWINESCAVA

89 Albet I Noya NV Petit Albet Brut(Cava); $19. Toasty right away, with

lightly baked apple aromas. The palate has a finefeel and good overall intensity, while the flavors oflemon, white grapefruit and apple are subtle andclean. Long and persistent, and showing quite abit for a standard nonvintage Cava. Imported byOpici Import Company. —M.S.

89 Marques de Gelida 2007 BrutReserva Made with Organic

Grapes (Cava); $18. A toasty, yeasty, organic -grape Cava with butterscotch, vanilla and bakedfruit aromas. The palate has good balance, whilethe flavors are citric but not sour, with pineappleand orange leading the fight. Clean and not com-plicated, but more elegant than the average Span-ish sparkler. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. —M.S.

88 Juvé y Camps 2006 Brut Reserva(Cava); $13. Snappy and a little green

on the nose, with hints of juniper and greenapple. The palate is perfectly good but nothingspecial, while the flavors of apple and citrus arepunchy and pure. Frothy but controlled, with lotsof flavor and forward kick. Apéritif city! Importedby Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.

88 Marques de Gelida 2007 BrutReserva Pinot Noir (Cava); $16.

Floral lilac and plum aromas greet you, followedby a chunky, frothy palate with crisp core acidityand toasty flavors of baked cherry and caramel.Finishes smooth and long, with peppery notesand dryness. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. —M.S.

88 Vilarnau NV Brut (Cava); $15. Ifsomeone says Vilarnau brut, you should

say, yes, I’d love a glass. This bubbly will win youover with its dense but controlled palate and fla-vors of orange and sweet, ripe grapefruit. It has a

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BUYING I GUIDE

bit of green to it and it draws back nicely on thetongue without overfizzing. Imported by SanFrancisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.

87 Juvé y Camps NV Brut Rosé PinotNoir (Cava); $18. A little gritty and

tough on the nose, with hard strawberry andkirsch aromas. The palate is voluminous andfoamy, with flavors of burnt blood orange andgrilled pink grapefruit. Yes, there’s a hard, burntelement to the wine, but this being Pinot Noirfrom Penedès that’s to be expected. Imported byWinebow. —M.S.

86 Mistinguett NV Brut (Cava); $14.Soda pop-like on the nose, with a clear

reference to Sprite and 7Up. The palate is some-what candied and simple, but it has good feel andthe flavors of lemon-lime are likable. Mild on thefinish, with flavors that extend from the lemon-lime bouquet and palate. Imported by EcosurGroup, LLC. —M.S.

85 Marques de Gelida 2006 BrutExclusive Reserva (Cava); $15.

Dusty and with nice apple and spice aromas. Thepalate, however, is quite flat and devoid of a livelybubble bead. Flavors of pear and melon run sweet,while the finish is dull and lacks effervesence.Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.

SPAINROSÉ WINESROSADOS

87 Bodegas Nekeas 2009 Vega Sin-doa Rosé (Navarra); $8. Reddish in

color, with solid aromas of tire rubber, cherry andplum. The palate shows fine lift and balance, andthe flavors of juicy, slightly pithy and bitter rasp-berry and plum are just right for Navarran Gar-nacha-based rosé. Drink soon with salads andfinger foods. Imported by Fine Estates FromSpain. Best Buy. —M.S.

87 Dominio de Eguren 2009 Proto-colo Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de

Castilla); $7. Pink meets orange in terms ofhue, while the nose gives a nice blend of sweetand snappy berry and citrus. The palate has a lit-tle weight and heft along with dry, white-pepperyflavors of nectarine and apricot. Pithy, citrusy andhealthy throughout. Good wine for the money.

Imported by Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy.—M.S.

87 Marqués de Cáceres 2009 Rosé(Rioja); $9. Crisp, natural and lightly

salinic on the nose, with medium weight, goodfreshness and solid peach and citrus flavors. Thisis a standard but nicely done Rioja rosé with apithy finish and just the right edge to it. Drinkliberally with appetizers and you shouldn’t gowrong. Imported by Vineyard Brands. Best Buy.—M.S.

86 Muga 2009 Rosé (Rioja); $12. Verylight in body, color and aromas. The nose

is punchy and a bit sharp, and so is the palate,which offers crisp, bracing acids to highlightzesty, lean nectarine and tangerine flavors. Quitelinear and citric, but experience with this winesays it shows best with food. Imported by FineEstates From Spain. —M.S.

85 Iranzo Fields 2009 Bobal Rosé(Utiel-Requena); $6. Almost red in

color, with dusty aromas that mix in a blast oflatex and dried cherry notes. The wine is madefrom organically grown Bobal grapes, and it offerstang and bite along with crisp flavors of plumskins, raspberry and citrus. Almost sour, but not.A solid quaffer for the price. Imported by Lati-tude Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.

84 Bodegas Valdemar 2009 Conde deValdemar Rosado (Rioja); $9. Neon

pink in color, with heavier aromas that split timebetween chemical and candied. The palate is abit awkward and heavy, with jumbled flavors ofpomegranate juice, cherry and strawberry. Losesfocus as it moves along, and finishes with aslightly bitter aftertaste. Imported by CIV/USA.—M.S.

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98 Absolut Citron (Absolut Spirits,A h u s , S w e d e n ) ; 4 0 % a b v,

$24/1000 ml. Features a bright, pleasantlyfamiliar orange-lemon lollipop scent and fresh,clean and brisk flavors, with most of the lemon inthe finish. Balanced, with the right amount ofalcohol bite. A sure classic for vodka tonics.

97 Hangar One Mandarin Blossom(Hangar One Distillers, Alameda,

CA, U.S.); 40% abv, $35. The deep, sweetorange and honeyed-floral fragrance is the firstsignal this vodka will be special. The flavors areclean and brisk, followed by a strong bite andhoney and tangerine notes. It finishes sweet, withfaint floral and vanilla notes coaxed out over ice.

92 Belvedere Orange (Polmos Zyrar-dow, Poland); 40% abv, $40. Pleas-

antly aromatic, with punchy orange blossom andlime candy notes. An initially neutral flavor givesway to a touch of sweetness. It finishes smooth,with a lingering hint of orange.

92 Finlandia Grapefruit Fusion (AltiaCorp., Helskinki, Finland); 37.5%

abv, $19. Opens with a fruity, slightly overripearoma, very close to true grapefruit. The flavors ofpomelo and lychee are more dry than sweet, fin-ishing with a touch of anise and moderate bite.

92 Van Gogh Oranje (Van GoghVodka, Dirkzwager Distilleries,

Schiedam, Holland); 40% abv, $27. Thesweet, high but slightly orange-soda ersatz scentaccurately reflects the equally sweet and intenselyorange taste of this vodka. Because it finishessmooth, with rounded orange and tangerine notesand a Cognac-like, warming touch of honey, it’saddictively sippable.

91 TRU Organic Lemon (TRU OrganicSpirits, Los Angeles, CA, U.S.);

35% abv, $37. Eco-advocates will love that thepackaging is carbon-negative. But how’s the liquidinside? Subtle and lovely. It’s one of the few vod-kas with a hint of pale yellow tint, as well as aslightly viscous body. The scent is light, natural,and lemon zest-y. The flavors also are on the sub-tle side, hinting at orange blossom, and tapering tolemon peel on the finish. This vodka would blendparticularly well into sour-based cocktails.

91 Absolut Mandarin (Absolut Spirits,A h u s , S w e d e n ) ; 4 0 % a b v,

$24/1000 ml. Luscious and perfumy, withChristmas clementine and vanilla aromas. How-ever, there’s far more orange on the nose than onthe palate: a big alcohol bite comes first, followedby neutral flavor with just a suggestion of orange,and a floral finish.

91 SKYY Infusions Citrus (Skyy Spir-its, San Francisco, CA, U.S.) 35%

abv, $19. Bright, lemon-lime soda aromas, atouch ersatz. The pleasant flavor is reminiscent ofsweet lemonade, finishing with a surprising herbalnote. It braced up further over ice.

90 Finlandia Lime Fusion (Altia Corp.,Helskinki, Finland); 37.5% abv,

$19. Despite a faint lime-lollipop scent, the flavorof this vodka tilted more toward lemon than lime,with perhaps a touch of lime-leaf essence. Thesubtle flavor and light feel would make for a pol-ished, high-end cocktail.

90 S m i r n o f f Tw i s t o f O r a n g e(Smirnoff Co./Diageo, Norwalk,

CT, U.S.); 35% abv, $17. True fruit fragranceof orange peel oils, tangerine and a touch oflemon. Restrained and light on the palate, withmost of the orange on the lingering finish.

89 Orange V (Dynamic Beverages,Westport, CT, U.S.); 38% abv, $26.

Crystal clear appearance, despite the strikingorange bottle, and slightly viscous body. Nothingsubtle here: get ready for big, sweet, OrangeCrush aromas mirrored by sweet, absolutely hugeorange flavors. While it was too sweet neat, almostlike a liqueur, it gained more bite and structureover ice, and finished with a touch of lemon/cit-ron. Very sippable.

88 Finlandia Tangerine Fusion (AltiaCorp., Helskinki, Finland); 37.5%

abv, $19. The flavors are more reminiscent ofpear than orange, and lead to a mouthwateringfinish, with just the right amount of bite to balanceit out. Juicy, almost too overripe tangerine scent.

87 Stolichnaya Citros (S.P.I. Group,Russia); 35% abv, $25. The fragrance

is sweet and like lemonade. Initially neutral flavorgives over to alcohol bite, and then a powerful,lingering bitter lemon finish. Probably would begood in a lemon drop, or cocktail that adds somesweetness to balance out the bite.

87 Belvedere Citrus (Polmos Zyrardow,Poland); 40% abv, $40. High, sugary,

slightly floral scent reminiscent of gumdrops orlemon-lime soda. Although this vodka starts with aneutral flavor and faint lemon-lime finish on thetongue, it’s quickly overwhelmed by wallop ofalcohol bite and a touch of bitterness.

arrowing the scope of this month’svodka reviews was a challenge.These days, vodka is distilled fromnot just potatoes and grain, but alsomaterials such as grapes, maple

sugar, even milk. It’s made just about anywhere,and it comes in a dizzying spectrum of flavors.

But citrus-flavored vodkas have become a staplein the cocktail world, and so the compass needlesettled there.

Discovering the wide range of citrus flavors wasa particular delight of this tasting. The spectrumtilted from light and fresh to deep and ripe. I feltlike I’d been handed a virtual fruit bowl: the vod-kas reflected not just orange or lemon, but Man-darin orange, Clementine, blood orange andtangerine; Meyer lemon and citron and Buddha’s-hand citrus. (I ran to a grocer to scoop up exoticfruit so I could learn to tell apart the real-life inspi-rations.) Some flavorings were more reminiscent

of delicate peels or slightly bitter pith; othersclearly echoed the bigger, juicier flavors of thefruit itself.

In the end, two very different citrus vodkasstood out. The first was Absolut Citron, a Swedishvodka with a crisp, classic profile and a lingeringlemon finish. The second was a fragrant, full-fla-vored Mandarin Blossom vodka made by Califor-nia artisan distiller Hangar One.

Which brings me right back to the incrediblediversity in vodkas now: one is made by a globalconglomerate perhaps best known for its cool,iconic advertising campaign, and the other is madeby hand-picking 50 pounds of blossoms, just toperfume a single bottle, clearly a passionateendeavor. Two very different approaches andproducts, and both are very much worth a try. Ifthat’s not enough to make you want to celebrate,how about this: October 4 is National Vodka Day.

—Kara Newman

Spirits

CITRUS VODKAS

N

82 Smirnoff Twist of Citrus (SmirnoffCo./Diageo, Norwalk, CT); 35%

abv, $17. The high, floral aroma reads a bit sug-ary and soapy. Flavors tease out lemon-vanillanotes, with touches of light honeysuckle. Over icethe botanical and white tea notes become morepronounced. Light to medium body.

CORRECTIONS

In the September issue Spirits Buying Guide,three of the names of the reviewed Bourbons werepresented incorrectly. The full, correct reviews arebelow.

95 Elijah Craig 12-Year-Old KentuckyS t r a i g h t B o u r b o n W h i s k e y

(Heaven Hill Distilleries, Louisville, KY,U.S.); 47% abv, $29. Deep color, medium-to-heavy feel. Strong, sweet fragrance with wood andspice tones. Butterscotch candy flavors, so strong Ialmost hear cellophane unwrapping, are echoedby some oak, caramel and vanilla. Smooth, not toomuch alcohol fire. Mellow, long finish with a touchof herbal and anise notes.

95 Parker’s Heritage Collect ionGolden Anniversary Bourbon

(Heaven Hill Distilleries, Louisville, KY,U.S.); 50% abv, $150. Extremely well bal-anced—it’s complex but no single element standsout. Flavors are of caramel, burnt orange peel,toastiness and oak. Medium body, silky and longfinish, with the right amount of bite, lingeringaniseed note. Highly versatile.

94 Maker’s 46 Kentucky BourbonWhiskey (Maker’s Mark Distillery,

Loretto, KY, U.S.) 47% abv, $35. The nosefinds supersweet deep caramel candy and almondextract, but don’t be fooled. On the tongue, it’spunch-in-the-nose dry and biting. Best served onice, which takes down the burn and lets the pro-nounced woody flavors come through: lots of oak,strong tea and cigar tobacco.

BUYING I GUIDE

The Spirits Buying Guide is a summary of recentdetailed evaluations and product ratings of a singlereviewer, Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman. Every tastingnote is accompanied by a rating. Also noted are the fullname of the product, its alcoholic strength expressed aspercent alcohol by volume, the producer’s name, andthe suggested U.S. retail price. If the price cannot beconfirmed, an $NA (not available) will be printed. Pricesare for 750-ml bottle unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSTastings are conducted individually in a controlled tast-ing environment. Spirits are tasted alone; no formalreviews are ever conducted in the presence of any pro-ducer or industry representative. Samples are tastedblind in flights of no more than six to eight products.Price is not a factor in the evaluation.

ABOUT THE SCORESBeyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accom-panying tasting note to learn about each spirit’s specialcharacteristics. The numerical ratings correspond toquality in the following manner:

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality.Superb 94–97: A great achievement.

Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended.Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended.

Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;often good value.

Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-critical circumstances.

Spirits receiving a rating below 80 are not reviewed.

Certain spirits are designated as Best Buys. Spirits earn-ing this designation offer a high level of quality in rela-tion to price. There are no specific guidelines orformulae for determining Best Buys.

SUBMITTING SPIRITS FOR REVIEWSpirits should be submitted to the following reviewinglocation: Kara Newman c/o 36 West 20th St, 3rd Floor, New York, NY, 10011. Inquiries should be addressed to Spirits Reviewer Kara Newman at spirits@WineEnthusiast.net. There is no charge forsubmitting spirits, and Wine Enthusiast will makeevery effort to sample all spirits submitted for review.There is, however, no guarantee that all submissions willbe tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. Allsubmissions must be accompanied by a submission form,which may be downloaded from our website. Please besure to check the spirits tasting schedule prior to submit-ting samples.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Producers and their representatives are given the opportunity to submitlabels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza by phone at813.571.1122; by fax at 866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

THE WINE ENTHUSIASTSPIRITS

BUYING GUIDE

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89 Full Sail LTD Series Lager RecipeNo. 03 (German Pilsener; Full Sail

Brewing Co, OR); 5.6% abv, $8/6 pack.There’s a slight haze to this light gold-coloredbeer, with a solid malt backbone along with notesof floral and citrusy hops throughout. The carbon-ation is fairly assertive and livens up the palate,with softly bitter grassy hop notes dancing along-side toasty malt, orange rind and sweet spice fla-vors. Flavorful and a bit more complex than otherofferings of the same style. Snag what you find ofthis limited-edition brew while you can.

89 Maui Brewing Co Bikini BlondeLager (Munich Helles Lager; Maui

Brewing Co, Hawaii); 4.5% abv, $9/6 packcans. Pours a slightly cloudy pale yellow colorwith a significant head that leaves little lacing buta nice ring. Aromas are medium-intense with limerind citrus, soft spice and a touch of pineapple.The mouth is lightweight but very satisfying, withstrong but not overly assertive carbonation and acrisp maltiness. Not too grainy or bitter, with softhoppy notes lingering on the finish. An easy-to-drink, very well-balanced lager.

88 Coney Island Human BlockheadTough-as-Nails Lager (American

Amber/Red Lager; Shmaltz Brewing Co,NY); 10.0% abv, $5/22 oz. You can tell fromthe rich mahogany color and slight haze that thisisn’t going to be your typical amber lager. The aro-mas are a little caramelized and heady, almost likea Scotch ale, with strong caramel, dried figs,

molasses, candied walnuts and raisin cake spicethroughout. Big and roasty in the mouth withnotes of coffee and roasted malts alongside thenotes found in the bouquet. The finish is very longand tinged with hop oils and soft bitterness as wellas a bit of an alcoholic bite. A perfect fall brew,strong but clean.

88 Full Sail Session Premium Lager(American Pale Lager; Full Sail

Brewing Co, OR); 5.1% abv, $11/11 oz 12pack. This brew comes in an adorable littlestubby bottle, like Red Stripe, and it just makesyou want to love it. Light golden yellow color inthe glass with beautiful lacing left behind after thehead falls. Aromas of clean grass, softly toastedgrains and mild hop citrus fill the bouquet. Cleanand balanced on the palate, with nice fresh citrusnotes countering the rich malt backbone. The car-bonation is mild but appropriate, allowing thenuanced flavors to come through to the dry finish.Flavorful and satisfying but easy to consume andenjoy. Best Buy.

87 Bohemia Clásica (German Pilsner;C e r v e c e r i a C u a u h t e m o c

Moctezuma, Mexico); 5.3% abv, $9/6pack. Pours a pale straw color with a small headthat falls fast. The aromas are faint but clean, withnotes of sweet grains, softly floral hops and a hintof yeast. The taste is clean and well balanced, withnice earthy hops adding a touch of bitterness tothe finish alongside the grainy malt backbone. Ahint of sweet vanilla bean appears on the finish.

Light and thin but not watery; definitely a versa-tile, food-friendly brew.

86 Cable Car Small Batch Lager Beer(American Adjunct Lager; Cable

Car Brewing Co, NY); 4.8% abv, $7/6pack. Light straw-colored in the glass. There’s aslight metallic note in the bouquet alongside hintsof sweet malt. Clean and straightforward in themouth with an overall light flavor profile, offeringhints of citrus and more sweet grain flavors. Lightbodied and easy to drink with a clean finish; anexcellent session beer. Best Buy.

85 R.J . King Wingwalker Lager(American Pale Lager; R.J. King

Wingwalker Brewing Co, NY); 4.5% abv,$7/6 pack. Pours a very light gold color with athick head that falls fast but leaves decent lacing.The aromas are faint, with the slightest sugges-tions of sweet cereal malt and stone fruit. Crispand refreshing in the mouth, with notes of appleand soft citrus hops along with a touch of bitter-ness on the end. Brisk and easy to drink.

84 Tap Room No 21 Moe’s BackroomLager (American Pale Lager; Tap

Room No 21 Brewing Co, NY); 4.8% abv;$7/6 pack. Pale straw in color with a decenthead that falls fast. Aromas of sweet biscuit malt,soft citrus and a touch of metallic character unfoldin the nose. The carbonation is lively andassertive, and the flavors of Cheerios and huskygrains lead through to the crisp, dry finish.

BUYING I GUIDE

ctober is one of those funnymonths, when you can still remem-ber summer’s blazing heat whilefall warns you of the chilly daysahead. Some days it’s warm and

sunny, and perfect for that baseball outing orweekend barbecue, while others it’s cold andwindy and you’re forced to rake leaves from theyard or winterize the boat. For either occasion,and just about everything in between, the best wayto grin and make the most of it is to take a look inthe fridge and grab a refreshing lager.

Though they might be left over from your sum-mer entertaining, lagers make excellent early falltransitional beers. Why a lager and not, say, an ale?The main difference is that ales are brewed with

top-fermenting yeast while lagers are brewed withbottom-fermenting yeast. What exactly does thatmean for the beer? Lager yeast is inherently morefragile than ale yeasts; it has a lower alcohol toler-ance and undergoes fermentation at a lower tem-perature. The lower temperature leads to a slower,longer fermentation and storage period (hence thename, from the German lagern, “to store”). Theresult is fewer esters and aromas, greater clarityand a more full-bodied beer with a mellow palatethat’s crisper in character and less fruity than ale.

Given the wide range of lager styles availabletoday, there are plenty of options for every palate’spreference, and the reviews for this month’s beerbuying guide illustrate that point for you.

Prost! —LAUREN BUZZEO

Beer

LAST OF THE LAGERS

O

The Beer Buying Guide is a summary of recentdetailed evaluations and product ratings of a singlereviewer, Assistant Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo.Every tasting note is accompanied by a rating. Alsonoted are the full name of the product, beer style,alcoholic strength expressed as percent alcohol by volume, producer’s name, and the suggested/averageU.S. retail price. If price cannot be confirmed, an $NA(not available) will be printed. Prices are for the bottlesize or packaging indicated.

ABOUT THE SCORESThe numerical ratings correspond to quality in the following manner:

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality.Superb 94–97: A great achievement.

Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended.Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recom-

mended.Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;

often good value.Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-

critical circumstances.

THE WINE ENTHUSIASTBEER BUYING GUIDE