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Building military aircraft Ralph Savelsberg

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Page 1: Building military aircraft

Building military aircraft Ralph Savelsberg

Page 2: Building military aircraft

Military aircraft are among the most impressive and complicated machines

Grumman F-14A Tomcat, Wings over the Rockies museum, Denver

Page 3: Building military aircraft

I have been building aircraft for a long time

and I have built rather a lot of them

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Pictures of my models have been published in books and magazines

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I designed the aircraft for Ed Diment’s USS Intrepid

The model is on display at the Intrepid Museum in New York

Page 6: Building military aircraft

Contents

• Scale

• Shape – Building compound curves

– Building weird angles

• Working Features – Landing gears

– Cockpits

• Camouflage

• Bringing it all together

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What size should your aircraft be?

1/100 1/43 (minifig scale)

1/36 1/22

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It is your choice, but most of mine are built to a scale of 1/36

• large enough for lots of details and working features

• Retractable landing gears are relatively easy

• small enough to allow building big aircraft

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Shape can be very complex

Staff Sgt. Aaron Allmon, U.S. Air Force

B-1B ‘Bone’

• Difficult angles • Curvature in multiple directions

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For compound curves, the solution is making small steps

Shape of cross section changes only slowly along the length

F-14A Tomcat

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On larger models, I plan this before I start building

B-1B ‘Bone’

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LEGO make many different wedge plates that help with the angles

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Sometimes wedge plates are enough RA-5C Vigilante

Su-27 ‘Flanker-B’

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But there are angles for which there isn’t a suitable wedge plate

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By combining wedge plates we can make different angles

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We need parts to connect them

Plate hinges

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Presto!

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Sometimes it helps to mount (almost) the entire wing at an angle

Because the engines are not at an angle, the central lower bit of the wing is straight

E-2C Hawkeye

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Sometimes only part of the wing is mounted at an angle

F-16C ‘Viper’ A-10 ‘Warthog’

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This technique has made it into an official set

The set was designed by AFOL Mike Psiaki

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A few plate hinges aren’t always strong enough

Official USAF photograph, Senior Airman Sarah Shaw

B-52H

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Some triangles have special properties: Pythagorean triples

3

4

5

Pythagoras (3,4,5) (5,12,13) (7,24,25) (8,15,17) ( . , . , . )

𝑐2 = 𝑎2 + 𝑏2

a

b

c

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We can make triangles in LEGO using Pythagorean triples

3

4

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F-105 uses (3,4,5)

• Triple gives proper angle for trailing edge

• Leading edge built using 2x4 wedge plates

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Wings need to be strong to carry the weight of the model

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B-52 uses (8,15,17) divided in half

Leading edge built using 12x3 wedge plates

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The wing is pretty much rock solid

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Working features add realism

SB2C Helldiver

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The way the landing gear works is usally based on the real design

F-14A

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The aircraft designers have already solved much of the problem for you

F-111A

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Opening canopies

Usually, the canopy is attached to a strut that slides out and allows the canopy to hinge

RA-5C Vigilante F-14A Tomcat

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This even works for the weird canopy of the F-111

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Randomly mixing parts with different colours will not work, because camouflage is not random

Building camouflage

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Simple rules for building camouflage

1. The border between colours should never be a straight line of more than 3 or 4 studs long or plates thick before it changes direction

2. Once a demarcation line has changed direction once, it should change again as soon as possible

3. The contrast between the colours should be small

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USAF South-East Asia camouflage

• Dark green

• Dark tan

• (old) dark grey

F-100D Super Sabre F-105D Thunderchief

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A few more exotic combinations

Israeli Air Force • Tan • Dark tan • Sand green

Russian Air Force • Reddish brown • Dark tan • Dark green

IAI F-4E Kurnass 2000 Su-25 ‘Frogfoot-A

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Bringing it all together

I always use blueprints to get an idea of the shape

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And I gather reference books

These are some of the ones I used for the B-52

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I make drawings to work out the geometry and the size in studs

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I always build difficult bits first

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Top tips

1. Chose a scale that suits you (1/36 is good)

2. Don’t be afraid to build at weird angles

3. Build complicated shapes using small steps in every direction

4. Add working features for added realism

5. Stay close to the original: its designers have already solved most problems for you

6. Before you start building, do your research

7. Make a plan (and stick to it)

8. Build the difficult bits first

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If you do all this, you can get pretty close to the right shape