build a chaise frame from scratch

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Chaise-Frame-from-Scratch/ Home Sign Up! Browse Community Submit All Art Craft Food Games Green Home Kids Life Music Offbeat Outdoors Pets Photo Ride Science Tech Build a Chaise Frame from Scratch by duo8144 on December 19, 2010 Table of Contents License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Intro: Build a Chaise Frame from Scratch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 step 1: Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 step 2: Build Chaise Arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 step 3: Build Deck of Chaise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 step 4: Build Back Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 step 5: Upholstering the Arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

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Page 1: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Chaise-Frame-from-Scratch/

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Build a Chaise Frame from Scratchby duo8144 on December 19, 2010

Table of Contents

License:   Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Intro:   Build a Chaise Frame from Scratch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

step 1:   Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

step 2:   Build Chaise Arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

step 3:   Build Deck of Chaise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

step 4:   Build Back Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

step 5:   Upholstering the Arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Page 2: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Chaise-Frame-from-Scratch/

License:   Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa)

Intro:  Build a Chaise Frame from ScratchDisclaimer: This is the first sofa that I have ever built and have attempted to upholster. I am not a professional. I have done a lot of research and have built what Ibelieve to be a quality piece of furniture. I hope this instructable inspires you to attempt your own build.

*** Update 01/02/2011 : I added some more upholstery pics. The springs are now tied and covered with burlap and foam. Tomorrow I will finish upholstering the chaisehopefully, except for sewing the cushions.

*** Update 12/20/2010 : I began to upholster the arm of the chaise today. I will update this instructable with the upholstery section when I am complete. Until thenplease see the pictures below. Remember this is my first time trying to upholster so be kind. 

One of the hardest parts of searching for furniture is finding exactly what you want. You may find the design that you like, but it has the wrong fabric. Or you find the rightfabric but the wrong design.

If you do find what you want, it is completely out of your price range. The solution is for you to build it yourself. I have built a sectional from scratch. I consists of two endChaise Lounges and a middle sofa with no arms.

These are the instructions to build the chaise that will attach to the sectional. I will post the sofa section later.

I will soon post my upholstery instructable for this sectional soon.

Dimensions: 3 ft. (L) X 5 ft. (W)

Total Cost: about $100 - this cost can be reduced dramatically if you use lower quality material such as construction plywood or MDF and pine wood stock. I chose touse better material so that this furniture will last against my children.

Parts:     36 linear feet of 1" X 2 1/2" wood stock (I used Poplar)     18 linear feet of 1" X 1 1/2" wood stock (Poplar again)     1 - 4' X 8' sheets of 3/4" plywood (I usedcabinet grade Birch Plywood)     Wood Glue     Pocket Screws

Tools:     Tablesaw - ( I have a craftsman 10" )     Jigsaw - (Only if you are going to make curved arms)     Orbital sander - (Only if you are going to make curved arms)     Miter Saw (Chop saw)     Measuring tape     Clamps (Really helps when you are working by yourself)     Pocket Hole Jig ( or your own preferred joinery)     Rafter Sqaure (triangle)     Coping Saw

Cut List:

Part Name     |     Quantity     |     Stock Size     |     Stock LengthC -1                           4                        1" X 2 1/2"             23 1/4"C -2                           1                        1" X 2 1/2"             47 1/2"C -3                           4                        1" X 2 1/2"             34 1/2"C -4                           2                        1" X 2 1/2"             29 1/2"C -5                           1                        1" X 2 1/2"             27"C -6                           1                        1" X 2 1/2"             22C -7                           6                        1" X 1 1/2"             34 1/2"C -8                           1                        1" X 2 1/2"             21 1/4"C -9                           1                        1" X 2 1/2"             10"

Plywood cutlist 3/4" - 4' X 8' sheetPart Name     |     Quantity     |     Stock Dimension (W)     |     Stock Dimension (H)C -a                            1                                  30"                                            9"                      C -b                            1                                  23 1/4"                                     9"C -c                            1                                  59 1/4"                                      9"C -d                            2                                  27"                                            12"C -e                            1                                  18"                                            12"C -f                              1                                  28 1/2"                                      5"

 

Page 3: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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Image Notes1. Chaise Lounge 3' X 5'2. Armless sofa 3' X 5' 6"3. Chaise Lounge 3' X 5'

Image Notes1. The first layer against the wood is burlap, then a 2" sheet of Medium Firmfoam and finally a layer of dacron.2. I know that it is hard to tell from this light but this is a dark chocolate brownfaux leather.

Image Notes1. Each of these buttons I had to hand sew. Normally you can go to an upholsteryplace and there is a machine that will pop these out, but I didnt want to wait forthem, so I just sewed them myself the old school way.2. This was my first attempt at tufting. There are a couple of areas that I wish thatI did better. Hopefully the second Chaise that I built will come out much better.

Image Notes1. Here is another part that I wish came out better. The overlap is not as largeas the other sections.

Image Notes1. Finshed upholstering the back today.2. Installed the webbing today. I am going with spring coils instead of theSerpentine Springs, they are supposed to be more difficult to install but aresupposed to be a sign of quality upholstery if done right.

Page 4: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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step 1: DesignThe first thing that I need to do was look for the right design. I looked thoughout the internet and at stores to determine what I wanted. Once I got the right design, Idetermined the overall dimensions of the sofa. The wall that it will go on is 12' wide. I wanted it to stretch the whole length of the wall to provide the most seating possible.

I drew out the design and checked with the wife for feedback. She approved....LOL.

I drew out each section of the sofa and the individual pieces to get a better look at what I will be building.

step 2: Build Chaise ArmParts needed:Part Name     |     Quantity     |     PurposeC - 3                            4                         Pieces of poplar for the arm railsC - 7                            6                         Pieces of poplar for the arm railsC - d                            2                         Arm Face

I pocketed holed all the ends of the rails.

*** Note : Use glue where ever wood touches wood. You will be thankfull you did, trust me.

**--------------------------------------------------------------------**

I first drew the arm face design on a 27"(H) X 12"(W) piece of plywood. I then cut out the piece with a jigsaw. When cutting out the design, cut about an 1/8" away fromthe line of the design. You will refine this line with the orbital sander. I used 80 grit sandpaper and I sanded it to the line to get the exact shape that I was looking for.

I then placed the finished arm face on the other plywood to get an identical arm for the rear facing arm face.

Image Notes1. Pocket Holes are supposed to be the strongest joint that there is.

Image Notes1. My Kreg Pocket Hole Jig. One of the best investments that I made

Image Notes1. Part C - 32. Part C - 7 This was placed here to help maintain the shape of the arm whenfabric is placed over it. You can save money if you want to use Jute webbinginstead3. Part C - 7 This was placed here to help maintain the shape of the arm whenfabric is placed over it. You can save money if you want to use Jute webbinginstead4. Part C - 3 The bottom of this rail is placed 9" above the bottom of the arm5. Part C - 3 This rail is placed 4 1/2" above the bottom of the chaise arm6. Inside part of the chaise arm

Page 5: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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Image Notes1. Part C - d I drew the design out on plywood first.

Page 6: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Chaise-Frame-from-Scratch/

Image Notes1. When cutting this off - save it for later. You will need it for the inside backsupport.2. Arm cut out of plywood with jigsaw and the shape refined with orbital sanderStock of wood is 3/4" plywood 27" (H) X 12" (W) - Part C - d3. Part C - 3 : Bottom of wood stock is placed 4 1/2" above bottom arm andagainst the inside arm. Purpose: This is where the deck fabric will wrap aroundand be stapled to.4. Part C - 3 : Bottom of wood stock is placed 9" above the bottom of the arm.Purpose: This is where the arm fabric will wrap around and be stapled to.5. Part C - 7 : Placed above the straight edge of the outer arm profile. Purpose:This is here to help maintain the shape of the outside of the arm and to helpprotect if someone hits it. You can also use Jute webbing to save on cost.6. Part C - 7 : Placed on the outside curve of the outer arm profile. Purpose: Thisis here to help maintain the shape of the outside of the arm and to help protect ifsomeone hits it.7. Part C - 7 : Placed above the straight edge of the inner arm profile. Purpose:This is here to help maintain the shape of the inside of the arm and to helpprotect if someone hits it. You can also use Jute webbing to save on cost.8. Part C - 7 : Placed to maintain the inside curve the inner arm profile. Purpose:This is here to help maintain the shape of the inside of the arm and to helpprotect if someone hits it. You can also use Jute webbing to save on cost.9. Part C - 7 : Placed on the inside cutback of the outer profile curve of the arm.Purpose: This is where the arm fabric will staple to and where the outside armpanel will staple to.10. Part C - 7 : Placed in the curve of the outer arm profile. Purpose: This is hereto help maintain the shape of the outside of the arm and to help protect ifsomeone hits it. You can also use Jute webbing to save on cost.11. Part C - 3 : Placed on top curve of arm. This is the arm rest so I would notskimp on wood stock here. Purpose: This is the arm rest so I would not skimp onwood stock here.12. Part C - 3 : Bottom of wood stock is placed against bottom of arm on theoutside profile Purpose: This is where the outside panel fabric will staple to. It is

Image Notes1. Pocket joint between rail and face of arm. All joints are generously spreadwith glue

Page 7: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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also where the Jute webbing will staple to if you plan on using coil springsinstead of Serpentine springs

Image Notes1. Part C - 32. Part C - 73. Part C - 74. Part C - 75. Part C - 76. Part C - 3

Image Notes1. Place the second arm under the first one that you have already attached allthe wood stock to. Use a square to make lines across the plywood so that youwill be able to position the rails on the exact opposite side on the opposing armface

Image Notes1. Transfer the side marks to the top so that it is easier to put into place when

Page 8: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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attaching the wood stock. These are the corresponding rail locations on the backarm face to attach the rails

Image Notes1. Chaise arm arm fully built.2. Arm that inspired the chaise arm

Image Notes1. Chaise arm fully built

step 3: Build Deck of ChaiseParts needed:Part Name     |     Quantity     |     PurposeC - b                            1                        Outside side deck panel that attaches to outside profile                                                               of armC - a                            1                        Front deck panel that attaches to Outside deck                                                                and Inside deck panelC - c                            1                        Inside deck panel that attaches to Front deck panel and                                                               rear horizontal lower supportC - f                             1                        Deck center support braceC - 1                            2                        One attaches to Outside deck panel and the other is                                                               the rear horizontal lower supportC - 5                            1                        Attaches to the Front deck panelC - 2                            1                        Attaches to the Inside Deck panelC - 9                            1                       

Once the arm is built, you can begin to build the deck of the Chaise.

First attach the Side Chaise rail to the front of the arm face. Then attach the stinger board to the inside of the Side Chaise rail. Anywhere that wood touches wood there isglue.

Attach the front Chaise rail face to the sides and attach the side Chaise rail to the front. You are basically just building a box.

Attached the rear rail ( Part C - 1 - 1" X 2 1/2" X 23 1/4") to the Side Chaise rail and the rear face of the chaise arm.

Page 9: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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Image Notes1. Part C - b This is the outside deck panel.

Image Notes1. Part C - 1 : I attached this wood stock for extra support and stapling surface

Page 10: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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Image Notes1. Part C - a : I attached the outside deck panel to the Front deck panel2. Pocket screws3. Pocket screws

Image Notes1. Part C - 5 Stringer board for front Chaise face2. Part C - 23. Part C - c4. Part C - a5. Part C - 16. Part C - b7. Part C - f

Image Notes1. Part C - f This is the Deck center support brace for the Chaise.

Page 11: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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Image Notes1. Always make sure your pieces are square when you are attaching pieces toeach other.2. Part C - a : Front deck panel3. Part C - b : Outside deck panel4. Part C - 1

Image Notes1. Part C - 1 : Rear horizontal lower support2. Part C - c Inside deck panel

Image Notes1. Part C - 2 : Wood stock for extra support and stapling surface

Image Notes1. C - 9 : this piece is 5" (L) X 2 1/2" (H). I just drew a line from point to point usedthe Miter saw to cut the angle. The remainder of the cut piece was attached to the

Page 12: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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opposite side of the Center Deck support panel.

step 4: Build Back SupportParts needed:Part Name     |     Quantity     |     PurposeC - e                             1                      Inner back support panelC - 1                             2                      Lower back support rail and rear deck support rail C - 4                             2                      Rear horizontal upper support rail and Rear Top                                                              support railC - 6                             1                      Back support vertical railExtra Piece cut out from the arm panel that I mentioned earlier

Back support is 18" high and 12" wide. The top edge is 2 1/2" wide and is diagonally cut to the bottom edge of the plywood piece to get the right angle. Attach to rear ofthe chaise side rail.

Attach the bottom rail of back support (C-1) to the Inner back support panel (C-e) not the Inner deck panel. Attach the other side to the arm. This is where the back fabricwill attach to. Also it sits partially on top of C - 2.

Attach the Rear deck support rail (C-1) to the Inside deck panel 6" from rear and the top of the stock is 7" above the bottom. This is where the deck fabric will attach to.

I used a clamp on the outside of the arm and the Back support panel to maintain the the 36" distance. I then placed the Rear Horizontal Upper support rail (C-4) on theinside of the back support panel 3/4" down and pressed it against back of arm. I traced the curve of the arm to get a snug fit. I cut this out with a jigsaw.

I also added a vertical support rail against the back support panel (Piece not shown). It is 21 1/4" out of 1" X 2 1/2" stock.

I installed the Top Support Rail (C-4) to the Back support panel, the rear horizontal upper support rail and the arm. Dont worry that this doesnt connect to the arm, wewant a gap so that the foam and fabric will fit in between the arm and the back support.

Place part C - 6 against the back support horizontal rails and the Top support rail. Use a rafter square to transfer the angle to the board. Use the miter saw to cut. Minewas about 28 degrees.

You will need to back cut the top of Part C-6 about an 1" inorder for it to fit snug. Install bottom of part about an 1 1/2" away from arm. You may want to add more spacedepending on the thickness of foam that you plan on using.

Take the extra piece left over from cutting out the arm and with a coping saw back cut the inside curve of the piece. You may want to remove a little bit more off the toplength depending on the thickness of the foam you use. I used 2" foam and it was an extremely tight fit.

All done... you are ready for upholstery.

 

Image Notes1. Part C - e Back support is 18" high and 12" wide. The top edge is 2 1/2" wideand is diagonally cut to the bottom edge of the plywood piece to get the rightangle

Image Notes1. Part C - 1 This is the bottom rail of back support. This is where the backfabric will attach to. It is attached to the Inner back support panel (C - e) not theInner deck panel. Also it sits partially on top of C - 22. Part C - 1 This is where the deck fabric will attach to. It is 6" away from therear of the chaise and the top is 7" from the bottom of the chaise

Page 13: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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Image Notes1. I used a clamp on the outside of the arm and the Back support panel tomaintain the the 36" distance. I then placed the Rear Horizontal Upper supportrail (C-4) on the inside of the back support panel 3/4" down and pressed itagainst back of arm. I traced the curve of the arm to get a snug fit. I cut this outwith a jigsaw.

Image Notes1. Part C - 4 Top rear support rail2. Piece not shown - I added a vertical support rail here against the back supportpanel. It is 21 1/4" out of 1" X 2 1/2" stock.

Image Notes1. Part C - 4 Top support rail2. Dont worry that this doesnt connect. We want a gap so that the foam andfabric will fit in between the arm and the back support

Page 14: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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Image Notes1. Part C - 6 Place the wood against the back support horizontal rails (lower andupper). Use a rafter square to transfer the angle to the board. Use the miter sawto cut. Mine was about 28 degrees.

Image Notes1. You will need to back cut the board about an inch to fit in the back support.

Image Notes1. This is the scrap piece that I suggested to keep. You will want to back cut thecurved area with a coping saw to allow for room to shove the fabric through. Thethicker the foam you plan on using the more you will want to cut back.

Image Notes1. Part C - 6 : I placed with about 1 1/2" away from the arm on the lower backsupport rail2. You wanna keep about 1 1/2" space in the gaps depending on the thicknessof the foam you are planning on using. I used 2" foam with dacron and vinyl andit was a tight fit so you will want to think ahead.

Page 15: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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Image Notes1. Ready for upholstery. The only thing you will need to still at is an area for thefeet. I didnt add that because at this point I wasnt sure what I was going with. Inthe end I chose to put bun feet, so I put triangle support blocks in each corner. Iwill add pictures of that if some one request.

step 5: Upholstering the ArmFull upholstery steps Coming soon....

Image Notes1. Here is another part that I wish came out better. The overlap is not as largeas the other sections.

Image Notes1. Each of these buttons I had to hand sew. Normally you can go to an upholsteryplace and there is a machine that will pop these out, but I didnt want to wait forthem, so I just sewed them myself the old school way.2. This was my first attempt at tufting. There are a couple of areas that I wish thatI did better. Hopefully the second Chaise that I built will come out much better.

Image Notes1. The first layer against the wood is burlap, then a 2" sheet of Medium Firmfoam and finally a layer of dacron.2. I know that it is hard to tell from this light but this is a dark chocolate brownfaux leather.

Image Notes1. Finshed upholstering the back today.2. Installed the webbing today. I am going with spring coils instead of theSerpentine Springs, they are supposed to be more difficult to install but aresupposed to be a sign of quality upholstery if done right.

Page 16: Build a Chaise Frame From Scratch

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Image Notes1. Covered the springs with burlap once they were all tied.

Image Notes1. Finished 8-Way tying the springs today. That jute spring twine is killer on thefingers after awhile.

Image Notes1. Put 1/2" welt around the outer edge of the chaise for a soft edge.

Image Notes1. 1/2" Tufting Foam ( I think that is what is called). With this on you cant feel thesprings underneath.

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Comments37 comments Add Comment

 pacificfurn says:  Jan 2, 2011. 7:44 AM  REPLYWell done! I own a 52 year old custom furniture factory and I must say that you nailed it. There are a few missing techniques that would make your lifeeasier, but your basics are right on. We have considered selling kits for DIY'ers but didn't think anyone would have the patience to make their own. Maybewe were wrong. You certainly have the patience, skill and "craftsman" ability to do amazing work. If you ever move to Phoenix, maybe we could use you!

Mark ErwinSteward, Husband, Father, Grandfather

www.pacificfurn.comwww.furnituremakerpro.com

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 duo8144 says:  Jan 2, 2011. 11:03 PM  REPLYThank you for the praise.... it makes me feel great that someone with experience building furniture approves of my design. I would be interested inhearing what could be done better. I never shy away from advice.

When I was building this I also that about making kits. If you really think about it, it is exactly the type of thing you would get from IKEA. I think that it is agreat idea and you should look into it. Especially if you have a CNC machine, you can really reduce the scrap material and get the most for your moneyon supplies.

 pacificfurn says:  Jan 3, 2011. 7:08 AM  REPLYYou're welcome.Minor things really. Adding corner blocks improves frame stability and slots for pulling the upholstery through would be a couple. Nothing major. Wedo have CNC capabilities for frame, fabric and leather. The question of commercial viability falls to value. Would you have paid nearly as much to DIYas a Chinese manufactured IKEA sofa? It there enough value in having exactly what you want and the satisfaction of making it yourself to justify theeffort? You have inspired some additional thinking...

 whyexactly says:  Jan 4, 2011. 11:12 PM  REPLYPersonally I would love to be able to order a kit to make something like this, I frequently wish I could get products that are user assembled madein higher-quality materials. My family purchased a DIY pool table recently and we loved putting it together, it turned out great and the componentsare of much higher quality than a preassembled table of similar cost.

 pacificfurn says:  Jan 5, 2011. 7:35 AM  REPLYThanks for the feedback. When we are ready to offer DIY upholstered furniture, we will be sure to post it on Instructables.

 stebious says:  Jan 3, 2011. 12:51 PM  REPLYJust curious, about how much roughly did this run you to make? I have considered custom chairs and what not for my home but not sure if itd be worth it forme.. Thanks! You did an awesome job!!

 duo8144 says:  Jan 4, 2011. 7:05 PM  REPLYAlot of the materials that I listed are enough for all 3 pieces of furniture that I am building so there is some duplicate cost that wont be neccessary if youare making more than one chair.

 duo8144 says:  Jan 4, 2011. 7:04 PM  REPLYSo far the entire cost of the entire sectional: wood, fabric, foam, jute, twine, etc... is costing me just over $900. I am using premium materials, so this canbe dramatically reduced. The wood frame cost me about $240 (2 Chaise and 1 armless sofa). I got the Faux Leather at the garment district in DowntownLA and for $10/yard with 22 yards of it for $220. The foam is probably the most expensive part.

The cost of the Chaise, is hard to determine. If you buy all the wood for this it will be about $100. If you already have the tools (webbing strecher, staplegun, needles, etc) all you would have to worry about is the upholstery material. The fabric (about 6 1/2 yards @ $10/yard - $65), burlap (about 3 yards -$3), webbing (about 20 yards - $ 10), twine (1 - 1lbs roll - $10) and foam ( 2in X 2ft X 8ft for arm - $20, and 4in X 2ft X 8ft for seat and back cushion -$50), Dacron (30in X 7 yards - $7 but not sure how much $), tufting twine ( $15), Spring Coils ( 21 for $21), 1/2" welt (4 yards for $6),and wooden feet ( 4for $24). So the total is about $331, but there is alot of wood left over for other projects or other pieces of furniture.

Hope this helps.

 gix0r says:  Dec 27, 2010. 12:49 PM  REPLYWow, this is awesome! I've been fantasizing about building my own sectional for awhile now. This may give me that last motivation to try it. I'd go for a moremodern aesthetic, which would probably be easier, but more props to you. Where did you get the springs? That has been one of my big questions, as Iassume springs would be much more comfortable than foam cushions on top of a plywood base...

 duo8144 says:  Jan 2, 2011. 11:10 PM  REPLYI got the springs from a local upholstery supplyer in Monrovia, CA. Diaz Upholstery Supply. They gave me some great deals and offered alot of advice onwhat materials I would need. There are 2 types of springs, coils (which I used) and Serpentine Springs. Coil Springs are supposed to be tremedouslybetter, when installed correctly, but are hard to do and takes a lot of time and practice tying them right. I just finished 8-way tying them today. Total timeto install and tie the springs was about 10 hours. I will probable take a couple of hours off that on my next install. It is still undetermined if I did themcorrectly, but they look like they came out right. Serpentine Springs are extremely easy to install and take no time at all, but tend to sag over time. Hopethis info helps.

 gluvsu says:  Jan 2, 2011. 9:48 AM  REPLYI didn't see if you mentioned the amount you spent to make this couch! By the way I am so inspired but scared to try! It looks amazing!! Great Job!

 duo8144 says:  Jan 2, 2011. 10:58 PM  REPLYSo far the entire cost of the sectional: wood, fabric, foam, jute, twine, etc... is costing me just over $900. I am using premium materials, so this can bedramatically reduced. The wood frame cost me about $240 (2 Chaise and 1 armless sofa). I got the Faux Leather for $10/yard and I got 22 yards so$220. The foam is probably the most expensive part.

You should try it. Start small, like a single seater, so there is not as much of a financial investment. You cant be afraid to mess up. It is expected. If yougot it right the first time, them you probably didnt learn anything. Im about to finish upholstering this chaise and I have messed up in multiple areas, butwhen I upholster the other chaise and armless sofa, they will come out 10Xs better. Think about it like this, once you learn, even if you messed up, in acouple of months or years you can try again on the same piece of furniture. Good Luck!!!

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 jsmithblue says:  Jan 2, 2011. 10:57 AM  REPLYjust my $.02....the pieces of poplar at the top of the arm should be turned 90 degress so that is someone puts a lot of pressure there, it will be moresupportive. I have seen several built like this that snap because someone used the arm to push themselves up.

 duo8144 says:  Jan 2, 2011. 10:48 PM  REPLYThanks for the info... Maybe on the Chaise that I havent upholster yet I can put a vertical piece under the horizontal piece for the added support.

 robertlfulton4 says:  Jan 2, 2011. 7:53 PM  REPLYI have found on other furniture that the edges that come in contact or neer contact with the apulstry needs to be rounded so as to not cut the cloth

 duo8144 says:  Jan 2, 2011. 10:47 PM  REPLYI have knocked off the corners with some 80 grit sandpaper just to smooth out the corners. Also Dacron is wrapped around the corners to soften themfrom being hit by shins or toes.

 player2756 says:  Jan 2, 2011. 5:58 PM  REPLYVery cool. Definitely plan on building some furniture and have been thinking about doing something similar for a while.

 gluvsu says:  Jan 2, 2011. 9:50 AM  REPLYshoot you can make anything in your house if you can do this!!

 mcenerny says:  Jan 2, 2011. 7:30 AM  REPLYWaiting anxiously for the next ible! This is just in time to help me with my own sectional project, very similar to yours. Good work!!

 nathan43081 says:  Dec 20, 2010. 7:51 AM  REPLYI can't wait to see the instructable on how to cover the frame. I have been toying with the idea of making my own furniture like this, and need to understandthe covering part more before I get going.

 spiderham says:  Dec 20, 2010. 6:56 PM  REPLYCheck out your local Tech school for upholstery classes. I took an 8 week course one day a week at mine and learned alot more than I expected. I'mcurently doing most of the upholstery work at the amusement park I work for. $85 well spent.

 duo8144 says:  Dec 20, 2010. 11:13 PM  REPLYThanks for the info. I have looked into some upholstery classes at the local adult school, but I guess I wanted to give it a shot to see how it will comeout. I will post pics, if you have any advice or you see any sections that I can improve on or give advice on how to fix, I would appreciate it.

 spiderham says:  Dec 23, 2010. 8:58 AM  REPLYIt's looking really good. Since you're working with faux leather, it's a good idea to keep the fabric warm. Cold "pleather" tends to rip easily andloses some pliability, it's also much easier to work with. When you staple the fabric start from the middle and work your way out, pulling back andslightly away from the middle. This will help keep unwanted wrinkles down.

As far as the overlap on the arm, it's a little difficult to tell from the pic, but it just looks like you pulled that one pleat tighter than the rest.

 duo8144 says:  Dec 23, 2010. 9:45 AM  REPLYThanks for the great info.... Since I am doing this in the garage, the vinyl has been cold... could I use a blow dryer to warm it up. I have seenpeople do that but for car upholstery. I didnt know that it should be used for house furniture. I will try that when I upholster the other chaisearm.

Yeah the pleat on the arm is pulled a little tighter than the rest. I kinda ran outta fabric torward the front. Maybe if I would have stapled thepleat in place first and then warmed up the vinyl I could have stretched it into position over the front of the arm?

 spiderham says:  Dec 23, 2010. 10:38 AM  REPLYA blow dryer might work for problem spots (don't go nuts with it, just enough heat to work the fabric.), but it might be better to just get aspace heater for your garage and keep the fabric nearby. Stretching the fabric on the pleat won't work because it'll want to settle back toit's original state. Another draw back to pulling "pleather" too tight is that it tears much easier and continues to slowly tear until it eases thetension. Try to give yourself a couple extra inches on every side when you cut your panels and cut off the excess after installed.

 duo8144 says:  Dec 24, 2010. 12:19 AM  REPLYThank you for the great advice.

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 iminthebathroom says:  Dec 22, 2010. 9:38 PM  REPLYAwesome, I built our living room couch, your arm section looks identical to how I built mine, and it turned out awesome when I upholstered it. Just make sureto take into account the ability to reach into the frame from underneath to pull in the upholstery taut between joints. Makes it so much easier down the road!Yours is gonna rock, love the look so far!

 edinaromana says:  Dec 22, 2010. 8:16 AM  REPLYYeah, you are real smart and creative! Great one!

 sutek says:  Dec 21, 2010. 8:29 PM  REPLYLooks awesome and i'm with everyone else, can't wait to see it finished

 patrickvaz says:  Dec 21, 2010. 4:44 PM  REPLYIt looks great, waiting for the final finish, i want to try this project, all the best

 dasimpson1981 says:  Dec 20, 2010. 12:53 PM  REPLYare you showing this to final resulti hope so cos i think i just found the thing my living room has been missing

 duo8144 says:  Dec 20, 2010. 11:11 PM  REPLYI just began to upholster it so be on the look out for updates. I will try to make it a step by step as best as I can.

 tshallow74 says:  Dec 20, 2010. 11:48 AM  REPLYLooks great. I too can't wait to see how you cover it.

 duo8144 says:  Dec 20, 2010. 11:10 PM  REPLYThanks for the support.

 priscilla34s says:  Dec 20, 2010. 9:37 PM  REPLYIt looks awesome! Cant wait to see it finished!

 andyu555 says:  Dec 20, 2010. 6:54 PM  REPLYGreat framework! Where did you learn to do this? You must be really smart.

 josieuh says:  Dec 20, 2010. 6:50 PM  REPLYWow!!! This is a great looking frame..can't wait to see the end result.