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LOEI AND THE MIDDLE MEKONGBudget WorldClass Drives

ROADS IN THAILAND

All main and most minor roads are sealed. Signs and reflective markerswarn of hazards on major highways, and sodium lighting illuminates majorintersections. Bilingual (English/Thai) road signs indicate destinations, high-way numbers and distances before and after intersections.

Kilometre stones show highway number and distance along the road on thefront face, and distances to destinations in the direction of travel on the side.The police and military set up road check-points on highways, especially atnight, but there are no security problems.

Please remember to drive on the left!

Emergency Assistance 1-800-BUDGET, Udon Thani Office (0) 4224 6805,(0) 9841 4753 Phitsanulok Office, (0) 5525 8556, (0) 1820 8644,

Khon Kaen Office (0) 4334 5460, (0) 1925 4228

Highlights of the Drive

he Friendship Highway linksBangkok to Isan, an area which

encompassses the north-eastern pro-vinces of Thailand. The people of thisregion enjoy a distinctive language andculture, which they share with theircousins across the River Mekong in Laos.

Starting from Khon Kaen, a culturalcentre in the heart of Isan, the drivefollows the Friendship Highway northto the commercial city of Udon Thaniand then to Nong Khai, a tranquil townon the banks of the Mekong.

From Nong Khai the route followsthe Mekong valley upstream, beforeturning south to the provincial capitalof Loei and then heading west acrossmountain ranges to Phitsanulok.

Located in the north central plainsof the Chao Phraya basin, Phitsanuloklies close to the historical origins ofthe Kingdom of Thailand at Sukhothai.

From Phitsanulok, a different routeeast crosses the ranges again back toKhon Kaen or Udon Thani. Scenic shorterdrives are also possible from Phitsanulok.

TThe main route is divided into six

sections, each with recommendedaccommodation. This allows you tospend a full day en route and reachcomfortable lodging by nighfall in eachsection.

It remains for you to choose

whether to begin your drive in KhonKaen, Udon Thani or Phitsanulok, andthen for you to set your pace on anadventure into this beautiful, less-visited part of the Kingdom.

For further information, please seethe back page. Happy Trails!

Our fastest way to rent a car

Online Bookings:www.budget.co.th

2

City

Nong Khai

Ban Chiang

2

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NakhonRatchasima

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Nong Khai Golf (9 holes)

Mekong River

Victory Park GC

SANG KHOM

to Phu PhrabatHistorical Park Ban Na Kha (silk)

Ban Chiang

World Heritage Site

PHIBUNRAK

KUT CHAP UDON THANI

THUNG FON

NONG HAN

NONG WUA SO

KUMPHAWAPHINONG SAENG

NONG SANG

Wat Tham Khlong Pen

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KHON KAENNONG KHAISECTION 1 : 165 kms.

he drive starts in Khon Kaen, a regional centre in Isanwith a vibrant night life. From Khon Kaen Highway 2

races north towards the River Mekhong along a fast dividedhighway that allows an easy journey to the major UdonThani. Side tours along the route lead to King Cobra Villageand Ban Chiang World Heritage.

50 kms north of Udon Thani lies Nong Khai, a languidprovincial capital on the banks of the Mekong. Though thefriendship bridge at Nong Khai is the main entry point forvehicles into Laos, Budget vehicles may not cross at present.Nevertheless, with the border market, the extraordinary sculp-tures of Sala Kaeo Ku and the variety of restaurants alongthe river, Nong Khai is a pleasant town for a stopover (seemap, section 2).

South from Khon KaenSights south of Khon Kaen include the silk weaving

village of Channabot (KM11 on H229 to Mancha Khiri —66kms), the ‘Tortoise Village’ (KM40 on H2062 to ManchaKhiri — 54 kms) and the Khmer ruins at Phimai (H2 andH206 —151kms). Contact the TAT office in Khon Kaen formore information about places near Khon Kaen.

POINTER ONE

H12 & H2 intersection, Khon Kaen. Turnnorth for Udon Thani (116 kms). Phimai(151 kms) & Nakhon Ratchasima (189kms) are south.

KM35 U-turn and east turn onto H2039 to Kranuan forBan Kok Sanga, ‘King Cobra Village’. Drive on H2039 toKM14 and then take a side road south for 2kms. Villagerswill show you cobras, but shows may only be put on forgroups.

KM26-7 H2109 leads Ubon Rattana Dam (26kms) andH2146 to Nong Bua Lamphu (89 kms)

POINTER TWO

KM81-2 H2023 to Kumphawaphi inter-sects with H2. Turn right here for alter-native route to Ban Chiang World Heri-tage (see sidebar)

POINTER THREE

Fountain circle in Udon Thani. Unless itis rush hour, take H2 through UdonThani. H22 east is the direct route fromUdon Thani to Ban Chiang.

POINTER FOUR

H2 KM130 H2021 goes to Ban Phu andPhu Phrabat Historical Park (56 kms).This site can also be visited from NongKhai (see sidebar, section 2)

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RestaurantsFirst ChoiceBan Na Mai The ParrotBua LuangBan SuanNong PlaThang GardenKung PhaoNight Market

1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.

Up-Market HotelsCharoen Thani Princess $$-$$$, Sri Chan Rd, Tel: (0) 4322 0400-14Fax: (0) 4322 0438 e-mail <booking@dusit.com> Bkk Res: (0) 2636 3333 Hotel Sofitel Raja Orchid Khon Kaen $$$, Prachasumran Rd. Tel: (0) 4332 2155, Fax: (0) 4332 2150. Bkk Res: (0) 2237 6064. E-mail <sofitel@kkaen.loxinfo.co.th>Kosa Hotel, $$-$$$ Sri Chan Rd, Tel: (0) 4332 0320, (0) 4322 5014-8Fax: (0) 4322 5013 Bkk Res: (0) 2258 9425-7

Mid-Range Hotels Chaipat Hotel $$-$$$, off Na Muang Rd,Tel: (0) 4333 0055-64, Fax: (0) 4323 6860

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Khon Kaen Hotel $-$$ Phimphasut Rd.,Tel: (0) 4324 4881-5, Fax: (0) 4324 2458Rosesukhon Hotel $$, Klang Muang Rd. Tel: (0) 4323 8576-9, Fax: (0) 4323 9457City Hotels Muang Inn $ Na Muang Rd. Tel: (0) 4324 5870-1 Fax: (0) 4333 4411-2Kaeng Nakhon Hotel $, Drichan Rd. Tel: (0) 4322 4268-71Sawaddee Hotel $, Na Muang Rd. Tel: (0) 4322 1600Fax: (0) 4332 0345Amarin Plaza Hotel $-$$ Rop Muang Rd.Tel: (0) 4332 1660-1Khon Kaen Ruen Rom $-$$. Ruen Rom Rd.Tel: (0) 4322 3522-3 Fax: (0) 4322 0567

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Khon Kaen MuseumCommunications Authority ofThailand (overseas telephone)Provincial HallThai Airways Office

ShoppingOasis Shopping MallFairy Plaza

Night EntertainmentNate Night BazarTimes Square

Tourism Authority of ThailandTel: (0) 4324 4498-9Long distance (air-con)bus stationPost OfficeRailway StationFresh Market

A.B.

C.D.

E.F.

G.H.

Lang Sun Rachakan Rd.

Sun Rachakan Rd.

Na Sun Rachakan Rd.

Prachasamoson Rd.

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PLACES

2

230

km 4

to Udon Thani

2

2131

12

209

2km.

km 6to Chumphae

to Phra Yun

to Nakhon RatchasimaPhimai

to Kalasin

ConventionCentre

Khon KaenUniversity

(0) 4334 5460Mobile (0) 1925 4228

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POINTER FIVE

H2 KM 146/7 junction of H2022 toPhen and Nong Han districts —alternative rural route to/fromBan Chiang

Ban Chiang, World Heritage Site.The Lao Phuan village of Ban Chiang is a site of

major interest 50 kms east of Udon Thani. A Na-tional Museum (open daily 09:00-17:00) and anexcavation site exhibit at Wat Phu Si Nai detail lifein the area 2000-4000 years ago.

From Khon Kaen (total 146 kms), you may avoidUdon Thani by taking H2023 (pointer 2) toKumphawapi (8kms) and then H2350 to Nong Han(31 kms). This joins H22 at KM34, where the high-way bypasses south of Nong Han district town. Turnright (east) and drive either to KM42 and follow asealed highway NE (Ban Chiang 8 kms), or con-tinue to KM50 and turn north on H2225 (Ban Chiang6 kms). From Udon Thani follow H22 east to NongHan and then as described above.

To continue directly to Nong Khai from BanChiang via a rural route, return on H22 to NongHan and turn north on H2312. Continue on thisroad, passing Pen district town and joining H2 atKM146 (Pointer 4). You may also visit the silkvillage of Ban Na Kha using this route by turningoff H2312 (H2022 continues north) onto H2255 atKM29 and heading west to Ban Na Kha (KM134 onH2).

5

Nong Prachak Park

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City pillar & open groundnight entertainment Shopping & SuperstoreTourism Authority of ThailandTel: (0) 4225 3406-7Railway Stationinternet

Up-Market HotelsBan Chiang Hotel $$$, Mukmontri Rd,Tel: (0) 4232 7911-29Fax: (0) 4322 3200. Bkk Res: (0) 2231 2669.E-mail: <bchiang@udon.ksc.co.th>

Charoensri Royal Hotel $$$, Prachak Rd.Tel: (0) 4234 3555, Fax: (0) 4234 3550-2Bkk Res: (0) 2319 8947.

Ton Koon Hotel $$-$$$ Mak Khaeng Rd.Tel: (0) 4232 6336-45 Fax: (0) 4232 6349-50

Mid-Range HotelsUdon Hotel $-$$ Mak Khaeng Rd.Tel: (0) 4224 8160 Fax: (0) 4224 2782

Karin Hotel $-$$$ Wattana Nuwong Rd.Tel: (0) 4232 0515-22

Napalai Hotel $$-$$$ Pracharaksa Rd.Tel: (0) 4234 7444 Fax: (0) 4234 7447

Udon Thani Airport Sleep Inn $$ H210 KM120Tel: & Fax: (0) 4234 6223-4Bkk Res: (0) 2641 4699 (inset)

City HotelsChaiporn Hotel. $ Mak Khaeng Rd.Tel: (0) 4222 1913

Charoensri Palace Hotel. $-$$ Phosi Rd.Tel: (0) 4222 2601

Restaurants1. Rabiang Phatchani 2. Mandarin 3. VT Naem Nuang (Vietnamese)4. Mae Ya5. Muang Kon Luang6. Night Market

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Pu Ya Shrine

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Phosi Rd.

Si Suk Rd.

Si Chom Cheun Rd.

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Mak K

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Udon

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Nittayo Rd.

UDON THANI

Night Market

S

S

PLACES

Provincial Hall

Railway Station

Charoensri Complex3

Fountain Circle

Prince Prachak Statue

to H210 & H2263

Clocktower

22

210

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to Sakol NakhonBan Chiang

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159

158Chiang Khan

Sri Chiang MaiTha Bo

Victory ParkGolf Course

(follow signs)

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CHIANG KHAN

Kaeng Kut Ku Rapids

Chiang Khan Hill Resort

Ban Klang

PAK CHOM

NONG KHAI to LOEI

Ban Hat Pia (rapids)

Pak Chom Resort

Rim Nam Restaurant

Checkpoint

Ban Song Puai

Ban Klang

Wat Tham Phapu

to Tha Li

10to Phu Rua LOEI

Loei Airport

Ban Na Luang

Ban Lao

WANG SAPHUNG

to Phu Kradung

ERAWAN

Tham Erawan (cave)

NA DUANG

NA KLANG

Ban Na Dan

SUWAN KHU HA

Phu Phrabat Historical Park

Phra Phuttabat Bua Bok

NAM SOM Ban Sam Liam Ban Klang Yai

Yung Thong Falls

Than Thip Falls

SANG KHOMThan Thong Falls

Wat Hin Mak Paeng

Wat Phatak Sua

Wat Arun BanphotSI CHIANG MAI

Wat Si Chomphu Ong Teu

NONG KHAI7

6

3

4

5

THA BO

(spring rolls village)

Sala Kaeo Ku

Wat PhrathatBang Phuan

Nong KhaiGolf (9 holes)

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Km82 Siam Bungalow Guest House

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NONG KHAILOEISECTION 2 : 245 kms.

fter joining H211 (pointer 6), you follow the Mekongvalley upstream through increasingly scenic landscape.

An alternative route takes you to Phu Phrabat, returningback to the Mekong at Sang Khom for the picturesque sec-tion east to Chiang Khan.

From Chiang Khan, the route heads south to Loei, aprovincial market centre serving the surrounding uplands.

POINTER SIX

KM158/9 H211 west to Chiang Khan.East to Victory Park Golf Course (7.5kms. See accommodation for details.)

6

Alternative Route via Phu Phrabat Historical Park(101 kms)

This route rejoins H211 at Sang Khom. Take H2020(pointer 7) to Ban Phu and then H2348 to the historicalpark — a visit to this site is recommended (allow 90 min.to walk around the park).

Continue west on H2348 to Ban Sam Liam (KM28) be-fore turning north (right) on H2376 to Sang Khom. Turnoff H2376 at KM15 to visit the Yung Thong Falls (right turnon concrete lane at the sign for Na Yung-Nam Som ForestPark — 2kms).

If you do not wish to miss sights on H211 betweenKM28 & 84, return to H211 on H2266 (which joins H2348at a T-junction south of KM15 — if taking H2266 northturn hard right at confusing sign near KM8).

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Sang Khom High St.

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2376

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Shops

Tha Bo Market

Ban PhuPhu Phrabhat HistoricalPark alternative route

211

2020

1 Km.

Nong Khai Station

to Udon Thani

Friendship BridgeM e k o n g R i v e r

Prap Ho Monument

Kaeo Worawut Rd.

Michai Rd.

Day Market

Provincial Hall

Sala Kaeo Ku Sculpture Park

Wat PhochaiWat Si Saket

Wat Hai Sok

@Internet

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to Phon Phisai

LocalImmigrationCheckpoint

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Nong KhaiImmigrationCheckpoint

Prachak Rd.

Phonphisai Rd.

PrasermRestaurantsDang Naem MuangRuen Rim NamSong Fang KhongChay KhongKhrua Sabang Nga

1.2.3.4.5.

Up-market HotelsMekong Royal Nongkhai $$$, 222 Jommani Beach, Nong Khai. Tel: (0) 4242 0024, (0) 4246 5777-8 Fax: (0) 4242 1280 Bkk Res: (0) 2272 0087-9Nong Khai Grand Hotel $$ Phonphisai Rd, Nong Khai Tel: (0) 4242 0033, (0) 4242 0044 Fax: (0) 4241 2026 Bkk Res: (0) 2237 6809-12 <www.nongkhaigrand.com>

Mid-Range HotelsThai Laos Riverside Hotel $$, Kaeo Worawut Rd. Tel: (0) 4246 0263-7, Fax: (0) 4246 0317Tip Hotel $-$$, Mitraphap Rd, Nong Khai Tel&Fax: (0) 4246 4513-22

City Hotels/Guest HousesKhong River Hotel$-$$ , Kaeo Worawut Rd, Tel: (0) 4241 1277Mut Mee Guest House $, Kaeo Worawut Rd. Fax: (0) 4226 0717. e-mail <wasambe@loxinfo.co.th>Phantawee Hotel $-$$, Hai Sok Rd., Nong Khai Tel: (0) 4241 1568-9Prajak Bungalows $-$$, Prachak Rd, Tel: (0) 4241 2644, (0) 4242 0510Mae Khong Guest House $ Tel: (0) 4246 0689

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POINTER SEVEN

KM28/9 H2020 to Ban Phu (30 kms) andPhu Phrabat Historical Park (42 kms) —alternative route to pointer 8.

KM54 Wat Aran Banphot — a new chedi on a slopeabove the highway

KM64 Wat Hin Mak Peng — a temple overlooking anarrow part of the River Mekong. Polite dress required.

7

8

H211 KM73 Than Thong Falls. A laterite (dirt) road fromthe local market just east (150 m) of the falls goes south.After 1.5kms a dirt road right leads to Wat Phatak Sua (7.4kms from highway —4WD recommended) and a fine viewover the valley from a bluff. This is a good view for sun-sets if staying in Sang Khom.

POINTER EIGHT

KM84/5 Sang Khom (amphoe)H2376 to Ban Sam Liam (alternativeroute to Phu Phrabat HistoricalPark).

KM183/4 North turn to Kaeng Kut Ku rapids(2.5 kms). The rapids are a popular local touristspot with up-market dining and accommodationavailable on the river bank at the Chiang KhanHill Resort.

POINTER NINE

KM187 H211 ends at T junction withH201&H2195 in Chiang Khan. H211turn south on H201

H201 KM7/8 West turn on H2115 to Tha Liand then right at KM2 for Wat Tham Phapu Cavetemple (3.9 kms from H201). The temple has agrotto containing Buddha images.

ACCOMMODATION

Rustic guest houses have rooms at Sang Khomand Pak Chom; for more up-market accommoda-tion go to Chiang Khan or Loei.• Siam Bungalow $, Sang Khom, H211 KM82-3• Pak Chom Resort $. Pak Chom. H211 KM145-

6 Tel: (0) 4288 1033• Chiang Khan Hill Resort $-$$$ , Kaeng Kut

Khu (off H211 at KM183) Tel: 042 Bkk Res:(0) 2580 6201

• Victory Park Golf & Country Club (Pointer6. H2 KM158-9 Turn east on sealed road andfollow signs —7.5 kms). Tel: (0) 4240 7296Fax: (0) 4240 7299

9

500m

4H

5 3

2

H1

2195

201

211

to Loei

km48

km86Wat Si Khun Muang Wat Pa Klang Wat Pa Tai

Wat Tha Khok

Chiang Khan GH

OK Guest House Wat Mahathatto Kaeng Kut Ku (5 kms)

M e k o n g R i v e r

Post Office

District Office

CHIANG KHAN

Dragon with the Golden Ball Guest House $ Tel: (0) 4282 1056

Friendship Hotel $ Chai Khong Rd. Tel&Fax: (0) 4282 2052<janchiangk@hotmail,com> internetTon Khong Guest $, Chai Khong Rd Soi 10. Tel: (0) 4282 1547Rimkong Pub and Guest House $ Soi 8 Tel: (0) 4282 1125Souk Somboon Hotel $, Chai Khong Rd, Tel: (0) 4282 1064

1

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to Na Duang

to Chiang Khan

to Phu Rua Dan SaiLom Kao

1

2

3

54

R

N

1 Km.

203

201

201

2138

LOEI

RestaurantsKhrua Nit (opp. Phu Luang Hotel)Bua Luang (south on H201 KM204)Loei-Danang (Vietnamese)

1.2.3.

Up-Market HotelsLoei Palace Hotel (opening end 2000)

City HotelsKing Hotel $ Chumsai Rd.Tel: (0) 4281 1701, (0) 4281 1783, (0) 4281 1225 Fax: (0) 4281 1235Phu Luang Hotel $$ Charoenrat Rd.Tel: (0) 4281 1532, (0) 4281 1570, Fax: (0) 4281 2558Royal Inn Hotel $ Chumsai RdTel: (0) 4281 2563 Fax: (0) 4283 0873Thai Udom Hotel $-$$ Charoenrat RdTel: (0) 4281 1763, (0) 4281 1789, Fax: (0) 4283 0187

1

2

3

4

5

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66

Lom KaoLom Sak

203

2013Phu RuaDan Sai

Chiang Khan

Phu RuaDan Sai

Phitsanulok201

201

23

Wan SaphungPha KradungChumphae

Loei City

LOEIDAN SAISECTION 3 : 81 kms.

rom Loei, Highway 203 climbsto a pass at KM30 before

slowly descending into an uplandvalley well-known for its coldtemperatures and for Phu RuaNational Park.

Dan Sai is famous for thePhitakon festival held sometimein June according to a scheduledetermined by the officiating sha-man.

POINTER TEN

H201 KM207s o u t h / K M 0north — junc-tion with H203.See ‘AlternativeRoutes South on

H201’ sidebar for Phu KradungNational Park and for shorter re-turn routes to Udon Thani andKhon Kaen.

KM49 Phu Rua National Park(7kms). Take the narrow lanenorth to the most accessible ofthe protected plateau wilder-nesses in this region. After en-tering the park you can drive toa car-park within a onekilometre walk of the summit.

KM60/1 Chateau de Loei -Thailand’s premier winery. Youcan visit the vineyard on a lanesouth just east of the restaurant/shop complex (9 kms roundtrip). The high hill to the southis a macadamia plantation, whichalong with the Rang Yen Resortand the Loei Palace Hotel,belongs to the same owner.

POINTER ELEVEN

KM66. Rightturn to followrecommendedroute west on

H2013 to Dan Sai (15) kms. See‘Alternative Routes from H203South’ for remote rural roads thatoffer circular routes back east toKhon Kaen or Udon Thani. Iftravelling towards Phitsanuloke,H2331 west over Phu Hin RongKla offers a spectacular alterna-tive route (see sidebar, section 4).

10

11

F

2114

21132013

2013

2014

2294

21952099

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2399

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2372

2011

203

2209

2275

2005

2331

2115

2140

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2138

201

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2250

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Nam Nao National Park HQ

Saithong Falls

Ban Nong Phu

Ban Na Chan

Ban Na Kraseng

Ban Ahi

Ban Pak Huai

Nam H

uang

THA LI

Ban Pak Yang

Ban Tang

Ban Pak Yang

Wat Tham Phaphu

Wat Phrathat Si Ong Rak

Wat Phrathat Satta

10

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LOEI

Loei Airport

Ban Na LuangBan Lao

WANG SAPHUNG

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Ban Na Kha

Ban Pak Man Waranya

PHU RUA

LOEI to DAN SAI

Ban San Tom

Ranger Stn.

Ranger Stn.

Pattakan Rim Pa (km12)

Rang Yen

Chateau de Loei

Ban Khok Ngam

DAN SAI

Ban Pong Chi

P h u L u a n g W i l d l i f eS a n c t u a r y

(no entry)

Ban Phong Ngam

PHU LUANG

Ban Tao TatCheun Chiwin

Ban Tat Kloi

Ban Sila

Ban Khok Nong HaeoTat Khok Nong Haeo

Tham Yai Nam Nao(cave)

Ban Hin Lat

LOM KAO

LOM SAK

Ban Kok Kathon

Ban Wang Ban

Lom Swiss Hill

Nattirat Grand

Ban Ton Khwang

Phetchabun Airport

No fuel for 65 kms!

NAM NAO

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to Pak Huai

to Ahi

to Loei

to H2399 (5 kms)

725m

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4

Hill Brook Hut $$$ Km44.Tel: (0) 4289 9243Fax: (0) 4289 9244

Saban Nga Resort $ Km52.Tel: (0) 4289 9278-9

Phu Rua Mews. $$$ Km.31Tel: (0) 4289 1396-7,Bkk Res: (0) 2513 7578-9

Pimporn Resort. $$.Km46.Tel: (0) 4289 9152,Bkk Res: (0) 2281 4359

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7

DAN SAI

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2014

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to Loei

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to Pak Man (27kms)to Na Haeo (33kms)& Ban Muang Phrae (36kms)

Nong TaiMarket

Wat Phrathat Si Song Rak

Wat Pa Neramit Wipasana (murals)

to Nakhon Thai (42 kms)

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ALTERNATIVE ROUTES FROM H203 SOUTHH203 south passes over pretty highland country before descending into

the Pa Sak Valley to the district towns of Lom Kao (64 kms) and Lom Sak(77kms). Go 55 kms south of pointer 11 for the start of scenic, less-travelledback-country roads serving distant destinations (distances are indicated fromH203).

Neither fuel nor help may be readily available in the remote rural uplandsthrough which these roads travel, however. Allow at least half a day for theseroutes as tortuous bends and broken road surfaces seldom permit speedsabove 60kph. See sections 5&6 for accommodation nearer the start of theseroutes.

H2216 VIA NAM NAO TO H12 (102KMS)Turn west from H203 at Ban Khok Krathong, KM118, for an alternative

route in the direction of Khon Kaen that skirts the northern boundary of NamNao National Park. At KM58 a south turn by a local restaurant leads to aranger station (2.3kms) and Tham Yai Nam Nao cave. Park rangers can act asguides beyond the illuminated 400m (deep access is limited during the rainyseason).

H2206 TO WANG SAPHUNG AND H201 (92KMS)Turn west from H203 at Ban Khok Krathong, KM118, and then turn

onto H2216 betweenKM78/79 for a route passing the southern edge ofPhu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary to Wang Saphung. Waterfalls are locatedoff the road (4WD only) at KM45 (Tat Khok Nong Haeo Falls) and KM43(Cheun Chiwin).

H2331 TO NAKHON THAI VIA PHU HIN RONGKLA (92 KMS)See section 4

ACCOMMODATION

• The following resorts are best for all year service (guest-house styleaccommodation is available in Phu Rua)

• Phu Rua Chalet $$-$$$ H203 KM44-3 Tel: (0) 4289 9201, (0) 4289 9012Fax: (0) 4289 9200

• Phu Rua Resort $$-$ $$ H203 KM47-6 Tel: (0) 4289 9048• Rai Waranya $$-$$$ H203 KM50-49 2kms on side road up to Phu Rua

National Park. Tel: (0) 4289 9020, (0) 4289 9166• Rang Yen Resort $$-$$$ H203 KM60-1 (south turn, follow signs on

sealed road 11 kms Tel: (0) 4289 1089, (0) 4289 1389 Fax: (0) 42891423 Bkk Res: (0) 2318 8895-6

KM165 A sealed road runs west to Suan Hin Pha Ngam(Rock Garden Cliff), an area of limestone pinnacles, cavesand small waterfalls in uplands (18kms) — a local touristspot. Accommodation available at the Chao Phraya PhaNgam Resort. $ Tel: (0) 1974 8145

KM136 West turn on old road to Phu Kradung NationalPark (8kms). This is the best known of the national parksthat occupy the plateaus found at the top of mountainsthroughout this region. To reach the summit requires a5-6 hour hike — overnight park accommodation/campingis a must (300 & 600 Bt. in forestry department guest housesor in individual houses for 8 persons at 800 Bt.). Open 31Oct. through 31 May, entry 07:00-14:00 only.

KM112 Phu Phaman National Park — a recently createdpark. Features are less spectacular than those at PhuKradung, but the park is more accessible to the motorist.

Accommodation is available in Chumphae at the SriSuphan Grand Royal (see section 6).

to Ban Na Luangto Nong Bua

Lamphu

WANG SAPHUNG 184

to Loei

to Kok KathonPhu Luang

to Phu Luangto Phu Kradung Chmuphae

201

201

2016 2250

2140

210

N

‰ª‡≈¬ALTERNATIVE ROUTES SOUTH ONH201

From pointer 10, H201 south offersroutes for shorter circular tours backto Udon Thani via Nong Bua Lamphu,or Khon Kaen via Phu Kradung.

UDON THANI VIA WANG SAPHUNG(154KMS) section 2 map

Go south on H201 and turn east atKM184-5 onto H210 to Nong BuaLamphu and Udon Thani. Sights on this route include alarge Buddha image and illuminated cave at Erawan Cave(KM31 north turn 2.5 kms) and the pilgrimage site of WatTham Khlong Pen (KM90 south turn 2 kms).

KHON KAEN VIA PHU KRADUNG AND CHUMPHAE(207 KMS) section 6 map

Go on H201 south, which joins H12 at KM94 (113 kms).The sights along this route are as follows (see section 6 forroute information east of pointer 18 on H12)

= Hiking trail= Sealed access road

H

203

Summit 1365 m

Phaya Cliff

Thung NongDin Dam Range

Thung NongDin Dam Range

2.4 km

1.5 km700 m

600 m

800 m

800 m400 m

1.8 km

2.5 km

4 km

1.8 km

1. km

1.8 km

Pu Ku Viewpoint

Sa Sawan

side r

oad

Hin Sam-Chan Falls

HQ2

Checkpoint & Car Park

Lon Noi Cliff

Hin Taolane

sealed lane

Sam Tong Cliff

Dong Tam Sam

Suan Hin Pha Lae

Sao Ae Range

Visitor Centre & Park HQ

Dao Chao Viewpoint

Nature Trail

PHU RUAto Loei

to Dan Sai

Rai Waranya Resort

Huai Phai Falls

Hin Taek Range

Lat Muat Ae

PHU RUA N.PARK

PHU RUA NATIONAL PARKFrom Forestry Dept. map in parkbrochure

Checkpoint

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8

1146

1163

10451106

10471268

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1047 1214

1214

1246

1296

1328

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1237

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2013

2216

1248

2013

2372

2005

2325

2196

2258

1143

11

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2014

2013

2331

11

1212

1171063

2011 2011

1295

1121

113

21

2275

115111

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Sirikhit Dam

NAM PHAT

L A O S

Ban Rom Klao

Ban Huai Mun

Ban Bo Muang NoiBan Na KhaBan Na Kha

Ban Muang Phrae

NA HAEO Ban Pak Man

Ban Na MuangDAN SAIÕ.¥à“π´â“¬12

13

15

14

16

11

Ban Huai Tin Tang

Flagpole Cliff

N a H a e oN a t i o n a l P a r k

No fuel 80 kms!

Hmong village

Ban Doi Nam Phiang Din (Hmong)Ang Sila Garden

Lom Swiss HillLOM SAKÕ.À≈à¡ —°

LOM KAOÕ.À≈ࡇ°à“

Imperial Phu Kaew

Ban Huai Mak

Ban Nong Mae Na

Flora Park

Ban Thung Samo

Chuan Chom Resort

Memorial

KHAO KHO

Palace

Rim Doi

PHETCHABUN‡æ™√∫Ÿ√≥å

PHICHIT

SAK LEK

NOEN MAPHRANG

Saengthawan(km28) Sakuno

ThayaFalls

Rainforest Resort

Kaeng Son Rapids

Wang Nam Yen Resort$$$ Km46. (0) 5529 3411-4Fax: (0) 5529 3415Bkk Res: (0) 2318 8956

SaphraiwanGrandBan Sap Phraiwan

Sopha Falls (km70)

T h u n g S a l a e n g L u a n gN a t i o n a l P a r k

Sri Dit Falls

P h u H i n R o n g K l aN a t i o n a l P a r k

NAKHON THAI

WAT BOT

CHATRAKANBan Bong Khae

to Uttaradit

to Kamphaeng Phet

to Taphan Hin to In Buri, Bangkok to Taphan Hin to Saraburi, Bangkok

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1564m

2102m

1249m

1468m

948m

1746m

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1174m

1350m

1003m

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to Sukhothai Historical Park (Budget WorldClass Drives Chiang Mai-Sukhothai Loop)

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DAN SAIPHITSANULOKSECTION 4 : 142 kms.

he recommendedroute climbs from

Dan Sai over a north-south ridge before goingto Nakhon Thai and be-yond to H12. H12 thendescends down towardsPhitsanulok, passing sev-eral points where the KhekRiver tumbles over pic-turesque falls and rapids.

Phitsanulok is an im-portant commercial cen-tre on the Nan River. VisitWat Phra Si Rattana Maha-that, Thailand’s secondmost revered piligrimagesite, and then enjoy Thaifood on floating restua-rants on the Nan River.

60 kms to the west ofthe city, H12 reachesSukhothai and a route toboth Sukhothai and SriSatchanalai HistoricalParks (For more informa-tion see our Chiang Mai-Sukhothai Loop WorldClassDrive).

NW OF DAN SAIRoutes north-west of

Dan Sai enter very pic-turesque territory, butthe mountain roads areslow and there is no ac-commodation.

H1268 from BanMuang Phrae (35kms)passes Na Haeo NationalPark (55 kms) and BanRom Klao (77 kms). Thelatter is near the site of abloody dispute over log-ging concessions andfrontier demarcationwith Laos in 1989.

Distances from DanSai on circular routes areas follows: H12 viaChatrakan and NakhonThai (205 kms), Phitsa-nuloke via Chatrakan &Ban Bong Khae (250 kms),Phu Rua via Na Haeo andH2294 (91 kms).

T

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Khao KhoLom SakKhon Kaen

Phitsanulok

Dan Sai Nakhon Thai Alternative route Phu Hin Rongkla

2113

1268

Nakhon ThaiPhitsanulok

Phu Rua

Lom Kao

Na Haeo

2013

2013

2014

2113

12

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65

9

10

3

4 8

11

7

13

A

R

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PHITSANULOK

B

DC

Airport

Military

RestaurantsKhun PuBan Ton MaiPhae Fa ThaiSong KhwaePhae Nam ThongRiversideFood night market

1.2.3.4.5.6.7.

Wat Phra Si Rattana MahathatHo Silapa Gallery, Naresuan University (City Campus)Sgt Major Tawee Folk Museum (08:30-16:30 closed Mon)Buddha Casting FactoryTAT, Phraya Surasi Rd. Tel: (0) 5525 2743Railway StationBus StationPost OfficePhitsanulok Bazaar (Night Entertainment)Superstore

A.B.C.D.

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10111213

Hotel Up-MarketAmarin Lagoon Resort $$-$$$, Praongkhao Rd. Tel: (0) 5522 0999 Fax: (0) 5522 0944 Bkk Res: (0) 2668 4277Pailyn Hotel $$-$$$ Borom Trailokanat Rd. Tel: (0) 5525 2411-5, (0) 5522 5228-35 Fax: (0) 5525 8185. Bkk Res: (0) 2215 7110-2Topland Hotel $$$, Ekathotsarot Rd. Tel: (0) 5524 7800 Fax: (0) 5524 7815 Bkk Res: (0) 2215 6108

Mid-RangeGolden Grand Hotel $$, Thamma Bucha Rd. Tel: (0) 5521 0234-7 Fax: (0) 5521 0887La Paloma Hotel $$, Si Tham Traipidok Rd. Tel: (0) 5521 7934-6, Fax: (0) 5521 7935 Bkk Res: (0) 2251 1674Nanchao Hotel $$, Borom Trailokanat Rd. Tel: (0) 5525 2510-4, (0) 5524 4702-5 Fax: (0) 5524 4794Phitsanuloke Thani Hotel $$, Sanambin Rd Tel: (0) 5521 1065-69, Fax: (0) 5521 1071 Bkk Res: (0) 2318 9101-3Rajapruk $$-$$$, Phra Ong Dam Rd, Tel: (0) 5521 2727-30, Fax: (0) 5525 1395, Bkk Res: (0) 2229 4496Thep Nakorn Hotel $$, Si Tham Traipidok Rd Tel: (0) 5524 4070-2, Fax: (0) 5525 1897

City HotelsAmarin Nakorn Hotel, Chaophraya Rd, Tel: (0) 5521 9069-78, Fax: (0) 5521 9500U-Thong Hotel $, Phra Ong Dam Rd. Tel: (0) 5521 0424-7 Fax: (0) 5521 1003Wang Kaew $, Theparak Rd, Tel: (0) 5524 5581-8, Fax: (0) 5524 5589Youth Hostelling International $, Sanam Bin Rd, Tel: (0) 5524 2060

S

S

S

PLACES

Makro

Provincial Hall

Bic C

5

4

7

2

3

1

6

Wat Chulamani

A one-way system applies during rushhour 07:00-09:00 & 15:00-1730

One way all day

Borom Tra

ilokan

at Rd.

500m

R

Budget Rent a Car OfficeTel: (0) 5525 8566

Mobile: (0) 1820 8644

Ekat

hots

arot

Rd.

Phra Ong Dam Rd.

Sanam Bin Rd.

Singhawat Rd.

Wang

Chan

Rd.

Naresuan Rd.

Si T

ham

Trai

Pid

ok R

d.

117

12

12

12

11

12

121086

117

3km

Wat Chulamani

to Bang Krathum

to Bang Rakam

to Nakhon Sawan

to Sukhothai to Phrom Piram to Uttaradit

to Lom Sak

Airport

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ALTERNATIVE ROUTE H2331 OVERPHU HIN RONG KLA (65 KMS BETWEENCONNECTING ROADS).

From Dan Sai, the route over Phu HinRong Kla may be driven east to west byheading south on H203 and turning rightto Ban Wang Ban just after KM120 (noEnglish sign!). Or you may drive it fromwest to east as described here, perhaps onan eastbound journey from Phitsanulok(section 5). However, if it is rainy and theupper half of the mountain is shrouded incloud, avoid this route (dangerous whenwet ). Allow a full day, especially if plan-ning to walk to falls (Entry 05:00-20:00No fuel on this route!).

H2331 to Phu Hin Rong Kla starts fromnear KM5 on a spur of H2013, which by-passes east of Nakhon Thai. There are fineviews west as the road climbs to theNational Park Visitor Centre (Park accom-modation suitable for family/group 500-1200 bt. Local reservations (0) 5523 3527,

(0) 1226 0726).

Between KM25 and 30 signposts indi-cate side trips to sights associated with theCommunist Party of Thailand (CPT). Tocontinue over the mountain turn right at Tjunction after KM31, or go straight to visitthe Hmong village of Rong Kla.

Little can be seen from the tree-linedroad as it winds over the summit — a 3.5kstrail leads off to Man Daeng Falls at KM28(distances are counted from junction withH2372 on this part of the highway) —untilthe descent begins near the park check-point at KM17. Hmong hill tribe villagesare located on these upper eastern slopes.The view is formidable, but be extremelycareful on the very steep switchbacks andbroken up road surface between KM17&6!

H2331 joins H2372 which runs north viaBan Wang Ban to H203 KM120-1, or southto H12 KM126-7. See Section 5 for accom-modation.

12

13

POINTER TWELVE

H2013 junction with H2113and H204 in Dan Sai

POINTER THIRTEEN

H2013 joins H12 at KM68. Aneast turn takes you to uplandresorts around Khao Kho. Gowest (right turn) forPhitsanulok

www.budget.co.th

10

Frontage Rd.

Frontage Rd.

Khao Kho

Phitsanulok

Lom Sak12

2196

Phitsanulok

Khon Kaen

Lom Sak

12

21

Phetchabun

Alternative route

Lom Sak12

2372

Phu HinRong Kla

Khao KhoLom SakKhon Kaen

Phitsanulok

Dan SaiNakhon ThaiAlternative route Phu Hin Rongkla

2113

1268

2372

2325

2323

2196

2275

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2258

2326

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Ang Sila Garden

LOM SAK

Nattirat Grand

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Imperial Phu KaewBan Huai Mak

Khao Kho Flora Park

Khao Kho Memorial

Ban Nong Mae Na

LOM KAO

Palace

PHETCHABUN‡æ™√∫Ÿ√≥å

T h u n gS a l a e n g

L u a n gN a t i o n a l

P a r k

Ban Doi Nam Phiang Din (Hmong)

Ban Camp Son

Stupa

Weapons museum

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Ban Rim Doi. $$Tel: (0) 5656 0183

Mountain Park Swiss Hill.$$$. Tel: (0) 5675 0445-7Piamsuk Swiss Hill$$-$$$. Tel: (0) 1826 8897

Ruan Deum Khao Kho Resort$$$. Tel: (0) 1886 2956.

6

7

4Chuan Chom Resort, $$-$$$. Tel: (0) 5670 2255

3

2

1

Boonprakong $$ Tel: (0) 5670 9081

5

Lom Swiss Hill Resort. $$$Tel: (0) 1227 4078

PHITSANULOKLOM SAKSECTION 5 : 128 kms.

rom Phitsanulok H12 climbs along the Khek Valley tothe Khao Lang Non Son Range, an area that was a once

a communist stronghold. Alternative routes north (H2331Phu Hin Rongkla— see section 4 ) and south (H2196 toKhao Kho & Phetchabun — Pointer 14) explore this terrain.

Lom Sak is a substantial district centre rivalling the pro-vincial capital of Phetchabun. (NB. Statistically H12 is oneof the most dangerous roads in Thailand!).

POINTER THIRTEEN

H12 KM68 H2013 north to Nakhon Thai— alternative route for Lom Sak viaH2331 for Phu Hin Rongkla (108kms toH12 at KM126 — see section 4)

KM70-1 Kaeng Sopha falls (the Thung Salaeng LuangNational Park HQ and visitor centre is at KM78-9). ThungSalaeng Luang meadows themselves are accessible from apark sub-station near Nong Mae Na (H2258 KM38-9 northturn 1.5kms)

POINTER FOURTEEN

H12 KM100 H2196 alternative route toKhao Kho & Phetchabun (68 kms).

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE VIA KHAO KHOH2196 traverses a highland plateau famous for battles

between Thai government forces and the CPT. Sights in-clude a narrow road (H2323 one-way south to north only)that climbs to a rudimentary weapons museum (ex fire-base) and to a war memorial from where there is a 270˚view. Other places to visit are the Royal Palace (groundsonly), Khao Kho Open Zoo & Sri Dit Falls. Phetchabun isa small provincial capital with a pleasing older quarter.

POINTER FIFTEEN

H12 KM126 junction withH2372 to Ban Wang Banand alternative route H2331over Phu Hin Rongkla

POINTER SIXTEEN

H12 KM128 intersects with H21 LomSak bypass (no lights!)and at KM130with H21 to Phetchabun(37kms) &Lom Sak (5 kms)

ACCOMMODATION

• Rainforest Resort $$$. H12 KM44 Tel: (0) 5529 3085-6Fax: (0) 5529 3086. e-mail<rnforest@loxinfo.co.th

• Sappraiwan Grand Hotel & Resort $$$ H12 KM53,Tel: (0) 5529 9329 Fax: (0) 5529 3339-40 Bkk Res: (0)2236 2711-2

• The Imperial Phukaew Hill Resort $$$. H12 KM KM97-8Tel/Fax: (0) 5675 0056-60.

• Khaokho Flora Park $$- $$$ H2196 KM5-6 H Tel: (0)5675 0061-2 Fax: (0) 5675 0063. Organic food.

13

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Mid Range & City HotelsBurapa Hotel. $-$$ Petchabun.Tel: (0) 5671 1155-9 Fax: (0) 567 2138-3Asia Guest House $ Tel: (0) 5671 1082

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LOM SAKKHON KAENSECTION 6 : 196 kms.

12 to Khon Kaen follows a pretty route over a watershedstraddled by the Nam Nao National Park. Beyond

Pointer 18, however, the single road highway becomes in-creasingly busy towards Chumphae (114kms) and Khon Kaen.

For alternative routes to Udon Thani go on H2216 viaWang Saphung (250 kms — see section 3) or via Nong BuaLamphu on H228 from Chumphae (249 kms).

NAM NAO NATIONAL PARKKM30 Entry checkpointKM39 Pha Hong Viewpoint (300-500m) & Cave;KM45 viewpoint (100m),KM49 Suan Son Dang Bak Viewpoint (4kms nature trail)KM50 Park HQ (1.5kms), Visitor Centre & circular naturetrails (for direct booking of park accommodation call(0) 5672 9002)KM67 Haew Sai & Saithong Falls (700m)KM73 exit park at checkpoint.

17

18

19

POINTER SEVENTEEN

H12 KM73 H2216 north to Nam Nao—alternative route to/from H203 and toTham Yai Nam Nao (see section 3)

POINTER EIGHTEEN

H12 KM102 (west of intersection) H201north to Phu Kradung and Loei (seesection 2)

POINTER NINETEEN

H12 KM82-3 H228 goes northto Nong Bua Lamphu & UdonThani (133kms)

H12 KM77 North turn toPhu Wiang Reclining Buddha(3kms)

H12 KM48 H2038 to Phu Wiang National Park (38 kms).A circular walk of approx. 5.5 kms begins at the visitorcentre and passes 4 of 9 dinosaur excavation sites.

ACCOMMODATION• Lomsak Nattirat Grand Hotel 000 Lom Sak. Tel: (0) 5674

5022-8 Fax: (0) 5674 5029• Sri Suphan Grand Royal $-$$$ . Chumphae. H228 (to

Nong Bua Lamphu) KM86. 2 kms from intersection withH12 Tel: (0) 4338 1031-3

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www.budget.co.th

12

INSTRUCTIONS

umbered pointers listed in sequence in the direction of travel show im-portant road junctions along the recommended route (reverse these if

travelling in the opposite direction). These are illustrated as follows.N

Kilometre references are noted intwo ways:

H12 KM13 = Highway 12 kilometrestone 13 is close to the point offocus

H12 KM98-9 = The point of focus liesbetween kilometre stones 98&99.

Kilometre stones are usually foundat 1 or 2 km intervals on most num-bered highways. Though names arewritten in Thai, the highway number(top front face of stone) confirmsyour route in the absence of Englishsigns.

Background shading indicatespoints of interest/ side trip/ alterna-tive road along or off the recom-mended route.

Stars by highways indicatesfrequent rough patches where thesealed surface has buckled/potholedand broken up. This is common in Isan.Be ready to slow right down frequently,avoid driving faster than 60 kph!

4 WD Only! If you are driving avehicle that does not have four wheeldrive, please do not take this road.When on a dirt road, please driveslowly to avoid mechanical problemsand to keep the dust down when pass-ing people and communities.

Remember to always take drinkingwater - allow for emergencies. Makesure you have enough fuel before en-tering remote roads through mountain-ous areas.

Help us get it right! If you have sug-gestions or wish to point out errors inthis guide, please advise our staff.

INFORMATION

This guide is designed to comple-ment regular guide-books. The officesof the Tourism Authority of Thailand(TAT) at Udon Thani, Phitsanulok andKhon Kaen also provide very usefulinformation and brochures. TAT officelocations are on the city maps.

ACCOMMODATION

There are many upland resorts whichusually offer rooms with fan/air-con-ditioning, fridge, TV and hot showerin small chalets near a central restau-rant. Those listed in the accommoda-tion sidebars in this guide offer year-round service even during the greenseason (June-November)

In the high season — Novemberthrough April — advance booking ishighly recommended, if not a must.Advance booking is also advisable forthe best city accommodation duringpeak periods.

Credit cards are usually only ac-cepted by larger resort/hotels, so travelwith enough cash baht to see you tothe next ATM (at banks in main dis-trict towns — amphoe ). The best ho-tel rooms in provincial cities usuallycost 1000-1500 baht ( $$$), depend-ing on season. 1000 Baht up 500-999 Baht less than 500 Baht

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Visitor centres at park HQs shouldhave brochures with maps detailingsights, though English language ver-sions may not always be available.There are board maps and walkingtrails are normally well-marked.

Park accommodation can bespartan, and is not set up for walk-intrade unless you bring your own tentand food. Prior reservation from theForestry Department in Bangkok isessential in the season. Tel: (0) 25797223, (0) 2579 5734, (0) 2561 4292-4ext. 724&725.

From August 2000 all foreigners areto be charged 200 Bt./head entrancefee, but it remains to be seen howrigorously this charge will be applied.Hitherto charges were 40-50 Bt./vehicleand 20 Bt./head, as it is for Thaicitizens.

For reservations, please contact yourtravel consultant or call Budget:

In the U.K.: 0541 565-656In the U.S.: (800) 527-0700

In Germany: 01805 244-388In Australia: 1-300 362-848

In Singapore: 532-4442In Thailand: 1-800-BUDGET

FALLING ROCKS(LAND SLIDE)

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Pointer numberand directionof travel

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