Pocket hote jigVersatite visePalm-sized screwdriver packs a punchBack pocket square

Multiuse tool that reatty worksThree tools in one

Dual-use wire stripperSingle-squeeze cautk gun

Best rolter cleaner everStripped screw remover10-use paint toolBig-grip spring ctamps

7t72

73

74

90

93

94

97

54

58

61

62

66

80

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87

Venetian plaster wa[[s

Space-saving wa[[ niche

Mud-busting boot scraper

Regrout a shower

Get a weed-free yard

Make over a room with trim

Panel a wa[[ in one weekend

Transform a room withpainted rectangles

Quick fix for dirty dryer vents

Repair a drippy shower

Quiet a noisy fan

Garage ceit'ing storage

Super-si mpte box shelves

Steppingstone path

Paint your kitchen cabinets

Under-bed ro[[-out

98

103

9 ways to save etectricity

Save $150 with CFLs

104 Cover leaky windows

106

110

115

Textured walts in one day

Cast a concrete fountain

Ti[e your backsplash

Summer sanctuary

Insta[[ kitchen cabinet crown moldingInstall open basket units

Bathroom cabinet

Custom closet organizer

134 Elegant and easy bookcase

138 Attractive barbecue cart

747 Wallpaper one watl

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122

728

133

t42 Cut your home insurance bi[[

6 10 simple cabinet repairs

10 Super-simpte DVD hotder

77 Scum-proof your shower doorsReplace a broken dryer vent cap

Speed-ctean for cheap

Fix seams in watlpaperClean chandetiers quicktyBetter traction on concrete

Stabitize a wobbl"y bookcase

Repair smatt holes in waltsQuick fix for a wobbly table leg

Patch watls with aluminum

Balance a ceiting fanReclaim crusty paint

Cautk cracked concrete

Ftoor-friendty feet for furnitureRepair otd extensjon cords

SPECIAL SECTION:

1O-minute plumbing fixes

20 Unclog a tub drain withoutchemica[s

27 Replace a [eaky water valve

22 Fast fix for a slow-filtingwasher

23 Qujet ctanking pipesFix a slow-running faucet

24 Keep your washing machinefresh

A trick for splicing in plasticdrainpipe

12

13

74

75

76

77

18

t9

Replace worn-outdrawer slides

Ifyou find that slides are bent, rollers are broken or rollers won't

turn even after lubricating, replacement is the best solution. To

keep the project simple, buy new slides that are identical (or

almost identical) to the old ones. That way, replacement is an easy

matter of unscrewing the old and screwing on the new. Remove a

drawer track and a cabinet track and take them shopping with

you. Whether you have pairs of side-mounted slides (as shown

here) or single, center-mount slides, there's a good chance you'll

find very similar slides at a home center for $5 to $15 per drawer.

If you can't find them, check with a cabinet materiais supplier (in

the yellow pages under "Cabinets, Equipment and Supplies").

Lubricatesticking drawers

A few minutes of cleaning and lubricating can

make drawer slides glide almost like new. Start

by removing the drawers so you can inspect the

slides. You can remove most drawers by pulling

them all the way out, then either lifting or

lowering the front of the drawer until the

wheels come out of the track. Wipe the tracks

clean and coat them with a light spray lubri-

cant. Also lubricate the rollers and make sure

they spin easily.

!\"s-,

lrff:labroken gDon't put up with a bro

corner joint on a drawer

Fix it before the whole

drawer comes apart.

Remove the drawer

and then removethe drawer frontfrom the drawerbox if possible. Most

fronts are fastened by

a couple of screws

inside the box. Woodglue will make a strongrepair if there's wood-to-wood contact at the joint. Ifthe wood at the joint is

coated, use epoxy instead ofwood glue.

't$ Remove naits,-*. staples or screws from the

loose joint and scrape away

old glue with a utitity knife.Predritl 1/16-in. holes for nails, apply wood glue to the jointand naiI it together with 1-1/2-in. finish nails.

PROJECTS UNDER $1 O

Glueloose knobs

Fill strippedscrew holes

When cabinet doors, catches or drawer slides aren,t workingright, first make sure the screws are tight. If a screw turns butdoesn't tighten, the screw hole is stripped. Here's a quick remedy:

Remove the screw and hard-ware. Dip toothpicks in glue,jam as many as you can into thehole and break them off. Eitherflat or round toothpicks willwork. If you don't have tooth-picks handy, shave splinters off a

wood scrap with a utility knife.Immediately wipe away gluedrips with a damp cloth. Youdon't have to wait for the glue todry or drill new screw holes; just go ahead and reinstall the hard-ware by driving screws right into the toothpicks.

Any handle or knob thatcomes loose once is likely

to come loose again.Put a permanent stop

to this problemwith a tiny drop ofthread adhesive

like Loctite (about

$4 at home cen-

ters). Don'tworry;if you want to

replace your hard-ware sometime in

the future, the knobs

will still come off witha screwdriver.

Touch up nicksand scratches

il*irilHif:i":;:#'"$wipe off the excess with a rag. But beware:Scratches can absorb lots of stain and turndarker than the surrounding finish. So startwith a marker that's lighter than your cabinetfinish and then switch to a darker shade ifneeded. For deeper scratches, use a filler pencil,which fills and colors the scratch. If the cabinetfinish is dingy overall and has lots of scratches,

consider a wipe-on product like Old EnglishScratch Coat (96 at home centers). These prod-ucts can darken the finish slightly, so you have

to apply them to all your cabinets.

Clean a yuckycutting board

If you love the convenience of your pullout wooden cutting board but don't use itbecause itk stained and grungy, try this chef-approved, two-step process. Simplyscour the board with a lemon and a pile of kosher salt, then apply mineral oil. Thecoarse kosher salt is an excellent abrasive, and the citric acid kills bacteria. when thestains are gone, rinse the board with water and let it dry. Then appry mineral oil tothe board. Mineral oil helps prevent the wood from absorbing stains.

C nppty mineral oit to theL board and wipe off theexcess. After a few hours,apply a second coat.

Buyer's guide

AIL the cabinet hardware and products mentioned here are available at homecenters and hardware stores. For a targer setection of hinges, catches anddrawer stides, check out Woodworker's Hardware at wwhirdware.com,[800) 383-01 30.

1O SII/PLE CABINET REPAIRS

Super-simple

DVDholder

his clever shelf holds DVDs, CDs or even small books.

You can make yours with as many shelves as you like sim-

ply by changing the length of the trunk.

To get started, cut the trunk and shelves to length. Bevel one

end of each shelf by tilting your miter saw or table saw blade to

5 degrees. Mark the notches in the shelves and trunk (Photos Iand 2). Measuring from the top ofthe trunk, center the notches at

8-112, 11.-112, 17-114,20-114,26-114and.29 in. Cut the notches

using a 5-degree guide block and a pull saw (available at home

centers for $17.50). Assemble the shelf (Photo 3). Screw metal

straps to the back of the trunk, leaving one screw hole exposed so

you can screw the DVD holder to the wall.

1-5l8" SCREW

I

{ Ef<-srRAP{Ll-

cost: $10 if madefrom [auan as shown.Materials:8 ft. of 1x6,

TRUNK314" x5-112" x34"

{ Set your bevel gauge at 5 degrees using the miter gauge

I and fence of your table saw.

J Test-fit each shetf and then gtue it into pl,ace. If a shelfJ tits so tightly that it's hard to remove after test fitting,just leave it-no glue is needed.

wood gtue, Z-in. x 1l?-inmetaI straps, 1 -5l8-in.screws, spray lacquer.

SHELF314" x5-112" x7"

5'BEVEL

O tqart the notches on the edge of the trunk using the bevel1 g"ug". Mark the face of the trunk with a square.

PROJECTS UNDER 91 O

Scum-proofyour showerdoorsKeeping shower doors clean and streak free is a

challenge-unless you know the pros'cleaningsecret. Start by cleaning any mold, mildew orstreaks off the glass with a glass cleaner. Use aMr. Clean Magic Eraser ($3 for a two-pack athome centers and discount stores) to get intothe cracks in textured glass. Scrape off toughbuildup with a razor blade. Dry the doors witha cloth.

Tieat the doors with a product like Aquapel($8; autobodydepot.com) or Rain-X ($5 at autoparts stores and home centers). These glass

treatments form an invisible film on the glass toincrease water repellency, causing water andsoap to bead up and run offthe glass. (Squeegee

off the water after bathing to keep soap scumfrom building up again.) Spray or wipe on theglass treatment, then wipe it off with a

microfiber cloth. Overspray won't harm sur-rounding surfaces. The products repel water forsix months.

ffiepfimce ffi hnm*qmffi dnyffin wffiffit ffiffiffi CDryer vent caPs are deliberately lighrweight so they'll open used to attach the cap to the siding and cut through theeasily, but this flimsiness also means they'll break easily. The caulk around the edges (Photo 1). pull out the cap, scrapecaps, especially the type with multiple small flaps, also clog away old caulk and dirt, and then wipe the siding clea., soeasily with lint. (Avoid this t)?e unless you're conscientious new caulk will stick.about cleaning it.) Cut the new vent pipe to the same length as the old one,

To replace an old vent cap, first pull apart the duct at then slide it through the wall. Screw the cap to the siding andthe last joint inside the house. If the duct doesn't pull apart caulk around the edges with paintable caulk.easily, look for small screws holding the sections of pipe Finally, join the old duct inside the house to the new venttogether' Next, go outside and remove the screws or nails (Photo2).Ventcapsareavailablefor$8athomecenters.

Cut the old caulk with a utility knife and pull out thevent from the outside.

Insert the duct from the dryer into the new vent ductand wrap the joint with metal tape.

PROOF YOUR SHOWER DOORS: REPLACE A BROKEN DRYER VENT CAPSUPER-SIt\4PLE DVD HOLDER; SCUM 11

Sffieed-dean for cheap

Use a multipurpose cleanerStop using four to six products to clean

your bathroom. Use one multipurposecleaner that does it all, such as Mr. Clean

Multi-Surfaces Cleaner with Febreze ($3

for 28 ozs.). With a multipurpose cleaner,

bathroom cleaning takes five minutes.

mrclean.com

Use a stain removerStain removers like Super IronOut ($10 for 5 lbs.) make quick

work of rust stains in sinks, tubs

and toilets. Pour it onto a sponge

or add it to the water in the toilet

bowl, then scrub with the sponge

or a nylon-bristle brush. You can

get rid of most stains in less than

five minutes.

s u m m it bra nds. co m

Use a Magic Eraser Use a disposercleanerForget lemons-clean and deodorize

your garbage disposer with a product

like Disposer Care ($4 for a package ofsix packets), in about I 5 seconds. Turn

on the hot water, pour a

packet of Disposer Care

into the disposer and

turn it on. Do

it once a week.

disposercare.com

one likes cleaning the house,

but you can make the chore

take a lot less time. Here are

the best cleaning products to keep your house

sparkling and save you several hours of cleaning

per week. You won't have to spend a lot ofmoney either-most of the products that help

you work smarter cost less than $5.

Yr*"#'f-h"*old vacuum. A HEPA vacuum filter(starting at $8) captures microscopic

airborne particulates. Old-fashioned

paper or conventional vacuum bags

capture only about 30 percent ofdustand allergens, and blow the rest back

into the air.

Use Tide with DawnStainScrubbers

g',,;1,ii'ip.,;;with Dawn Stain-Scrubbers($6.50 for 50 ozs.), a detergent

that can handle stains in the wash

cycle, saves you valuable time.

tide.com

12 PRoJEcrs UNDER $1 o

A Mr. CleanMagic Eraser($3 for a two-pack) easilyrubs scuff and

grease marksoffthe wall.

mrctean.com

Use DishwasherMagicDishwasher cleaning takes about five

seconds with this method: put a

bottle of Dishwasher Magic ($5) in

the silverware basket and run an

;;,;*";"";r.s,c.com$)

n

W

Fixseam- gin wallpaper*Repairing loose wallpaper seams is fairly simpleand doesn't require a steamer. |ust apply a seam

repair adhesive. It provides a solid bond andwill keep the seams from coming loose. It'savailable at paint stores and home centers forless than $10.

Squirt the adhesive directly onto the wallbehind the loose seams, then press the edges

back into place. Use a roller or straightedge as

shown to firmly press the paper against the walland drive out any air bubbles. Wipe away anyexcess adhesive with a damp sponge.

Clean chandeliers guickly;f :J;;ffi :lltT,H.:ilH::1,:1"-#ilnT?,:,,.:.ilitll;H,9a ladder. Want an easier way? Try a spray-on chandrspread a plastic tarp on the floor or table under the ch

drips. Then turn off the light and spray the solurion on the chandelier until liquidbeads start to run (you'll use a lot ofspray, but it beats wiping). The spray rinses offthe dust. The solution that's left evaporates quickly and doesn't leave water spots.The spray works well on hanging crystals, but don't expect it to remove dust fromcrevices. Buy it for $10 from nancysilver.com or chandelierparts.com.

Better tractionon concretePaint stores sell additives that you mix with a gallon ofany type of paint or solid-color stain to give you bettertraction on concrete surfaces. The additive won't change

the color of the paint or stain, but it provides texture toimprove traction. Don't expect a completely slip-resist-ant surface.

Stir the additive into the paint (one package pergallon), then apply the paint with a paintbrush or roller.If you're applying more than one coat, put the additive inthe final coat. The additive costs about $4.

Mix the nonskid floor additive with the paint. Thenapply the paint to give the surface a rough texture tohelp prevent slips.

SPEED-CLEAN FOR CHEAP: FIX SEAI\-4S IN WALLPAPER; cLEAN cHANDELIERS QUIcKLY; BETIER TRAcTION ON coNcRETE

Stabi lize a

wobbly bookcasearpet is held in place by tack strips placed along the

perimeter of the room. When you set your bookcase (or

any other furniture) over the strips, it won't sit level.

You have a couple of options to keep the bookcase stable. The

first is to pull the carpet free of the tack strip, cut out a strip ofpadding where the front corners of the bookcase will sit, and

replace the padding with a wood shim that's the same thickness as

the tack strip, usually l/4 to 3/8 in. (Option 1 ).

Option 2 is to install adjustable feet (called gliders; $4 at home

centers) on the corners of the bookcase. They're simple to

install-just drill a hole and insert the feet. You won't have to

mess with the carpet, but the feet may be noticeable, which you

might not like.

Resist the temptation to simply remove the tack strip. The car-

pet can move, even under the weight of the bookcase, eventually

resulting in a carpet wrinkle in the room.

Regardless of the option you choose, secure the bookcase to

the wall so it can't tip over. A child climbing or pulling on an unse-

cured bookcase could knock it over (hundreds ofkids are injured

each year by falling furniture). Fasten a furniture strap to the wall

and the bookcase to keep it from tipping over. The straps cost

about $6 at Target and hardware stores. Or, fasten the bookcase to

the wall by driving 3-in. screws through the back of the bookcase

(at obscure locations) into studs (be sure you hit studs). A total offour screws-two screws into two studs-is plenty.

0PTION 2: Drilt hotes and installadjustable feet on the bookcasecorners to levet it from front toback and side to side,

'I,N

:r i

OPTION 1: Pu[l back the carpet. Measure from the wall thewidth of the bookcase, cut away the padding, then insert shimsfor the bookcase corners,

,Y!

t*l/,

1r, .i \' ,\ ,1

11 PRoJEcrs UNDER $ro

Rep*ir srnall holes in wallsSmall holes caused by screws, hooks, wall fasteners ordrywall fasteners that pop up are simple to repair, but timeconsuming because you almost always have to repaint thewalls. Nail pops are common and particularly irritating,because you're likely to have more than one. But drywallscrews sometimes pop up too, as a result of damp framingthat dries out and shrinks during the first year or two innew construction.

The first step of the fix is to drive nails back down using a

nail set (Photo 1). If you have screws, dig the drywall com-pound from their heads with a utility knife and turn them intight with a screwdriver.

Then dimple the hole slightly concave with a hammer toindent any raised edges. But take care not to crush the dry-wall core. In addition, cut away any paper tears with a sharp

utilityknife. This is a good technique to use with old wall fas-teners as well. It's usually easier to tap them into the wallslightly rather than pull them out.

Two coats of joint compound, applied with two swipes ofa putty knife in a "+" pattern, should fill the holes (photo 3).The first coat will shrink a bit, leaving a slightly smaller dentto be filled by the second coat. Scrape the excess off thesurrounding wall so you don't build up a hump. Sand lightlyto blend with the surrounding wall.

Be sure to prime the spot before painting it. Otherwisethe paint will absorb into the patch and make the area lookdifferent from the surrounding paint. Use a roller whenpriming to help raise the surface texture to match the sur-roundingwall.

Drive a popped nail betowthe surface of the drywall with

a hammer and a nail set. Cutaway loose joint compound andpaper shreds.

Drive drywall screws about7-t/2 in. above and below the

popped nai[. Sink the screw head justbelow the surface of the drywait.

Fil[ the holes with jointcompound, swiping first across

the holes, then down. Let dryapply a second coat, then sand,prime and paint.

Quick fix for a wobbly table legGot a table leg, a swing set or just about any other item with chronicallyloose nuts and bolts? Here's a quick fix to keep metal threads tight onceand for all (not for plastics) using color-coded Loctite Threadblockerproducts.

Loctite Threadblocker Blue 242 (97 ar home cenrers) is great forlocking together 114-in.- to 3/4-in.-diameter fasteners. Blue creates astrong hold but can be broken free to unscrew the fastener when neces-

sary. Red Loctite 271 ($7) is for larger fasteners and more permanentconnections for swing sets, decks and ready-to-assemble furniture.

With either color, you just squeeze a little Loctite adhesive onto thethreads and then tighten the fastener. The bond will set in 20 minutesand cure completely in 24 hours. The Loctite adhesive prevents fasteners

from vibrating loose or rusting. It also does a good job of sealing metalplugs in water or air tanks. Clean and dry the parts. Appty Loctite Threadblocker Blue

to the fastener threads and reassemble the table.

STABILIZE A WOBBLY BOOKCASE; REPAIR SMALL HOLES IN WALLS; QUICK FIX FOR A WOBBLY TABLE LEG

Patch wallg with aluminumhe traditional method of repairing holes in walls is to

square the hole, put wood backing behind it, cut and

screw on a drywall patch, and then tape the edges.

Aluminum patches, available at home centers and paint and

hardware stores for $2 to $4, give the same results with much less

work. The patches, which come in 4-, 6- and 8-in. sizes, are stiffenough to span holes and thin enough to disappear after taping

and painting.

Select a patch large enough to overlap the hole on all sides

by an inch, then stick the patch on (Photo 1). Patches can be cut

or overlapped as needed.

Tiowel on the first coat ofjoint compound over

the patch, spreading the compound flat enough to see

the outline of the mesh through it (Photo 2).

Allow the compound to dry overnight, then apply a wider

second coat (Photo 3), followed by a final, third coat after the

second coat dries. Spread the compound in thin coats extending

8 to 12 in. beyond the patch in all directions.

After the final coat has dried overnight, sand it smooth, prime

and paint (Photo 4).

Spread the first coat of joint compound over the patch witha wide taping knife. Let it dry overnight.

4 Ctean off broken edges and tears around the hole. Then

l.ou.r the hote entirety with the patch, sticky side towardthe wa[t.

316

When it's dry, recoat the patch and then feather out thecompound on atl sides to make the patch blend in.

PROJECTS UNDER $1 O

/. Sand the patched area with a sanding sponge until it feetse'* smooth and even.

Balanceaceilingfan s}If your ceiling fan wobbles and makes more racket than an ,n- '*

the blade holder is firmiy screwed into the fan fl',vheel. Removebalanced washing machine load, this fix is for you. Ceiling fan anydustorbuildupfromthefalbladeswithahouseholdcleaner.

l

:

...i,: I -,l

.i: i;rl-,;": I:rr"

j

i

I

:,

;.

t,

wobble is caused by Run the fan to check the wobble and to dry the fan blades. If theimbalances in the fan wobble persists, one of the blades may be out of alignment.blades or blade hoid- Check blade alignment with a yardstick by measuring the dis-ers, misalignment of tance from the edge of any blade to the ceiling (photo l), andblades, excess dust make a note of the distance. Measure all the other blades inaccumulation or just exactly the same manner. If any blade is out of alignment, gentlyloose blade holder bend the blade holder up or down until the blade is in line withmounting screws. the others.

Restore your fan to its Turn the fan on to see if it spins smoothly. If it still wobbles,smooth-running days pick up a blade balancing kit (g6) from a hardware store or homebefore you wear down center. The balancing clip will balance the fan blades, eliminatingthe moving parts. the wobble.

{ Measure the distance from theI ceiling to the edge of a blade with

a yardstick. Hold the yardstick stil[ androtate the fan to measure the otherblades (most blades are angled, so besure to measure on the same side of atlthe bLades).

.*:.,, First, make sureall the biades aretightly screwed into

t*"hr. the blade holder, and

Photo 2 shows how to attach the balancing clip and pinpointthe wobble. Once you've found the best location for the clip,install a balancing weight on the blade as shown in photo 3. Addmore weight if needed to get a smooth-running fan.

) suae the balancing ctip on theE trailing edge of any blade. haifwaybetween the holder and tip. Run the fanto check the wobble. Repeat with eachblade, noting which one most reducedthe wobbte, then slide the clip in smallincrements away from the center of thatblade. Move the clip, operate the fan,then move it again until you eliminateas much wobble as possible.

Q reet off the back-J ing and stick theadhesive-backed ba[-ancing weight on thetop center of thebtade directly in [inewith the ba[-ancing clip.

ADHESIVE.BACKED

- ':*J?'flYf"'+.51i-

ffimc$m$nx *rrusty pm*mtYou don't have to toss out old paint just because it contains a few

gooey globs or chips. Instead, filter out the bad bits with a dispos-able paint strainer (about g1). Two types of strainers are readilyavailable at home centers and paint and hardware stores: the conetype and the mesh type, which does the job faster but is a bit messierto use. Keep in mind that old acrylic latex paint may not stand up tothe elements as well as new paint. So if you have leftover exteriorpaint that's more than four years old, play it safe and buy new paint.Better to spend a few bucks now than to scrape peeling paint later.

.-

\

ADHESIVE-BACKEDWEtcttt r'

PATCH WALLS WITH ALUN4]NUl\/: BALANCE A CEILING FANI RECLAIM CRUSTY PAINT

Caulk

crackedconcrete

racks and gaps in concrete are more than just an eyesore.

Water can get into the joints, freeze and then expand,

making the cracks even larger. Gaps against a house can

direct water against the foundation, leading to more problems.

Once a year, go around your home and filI these gaps and joints

with urethane caulk to prevent problems. The caulk is available at

contractor supply stores, home centers and hardware stores forabout $5 per tube. For gaps and joints more than l/4 in. wide,

install foam backer rod to support the caulk. You want the rod to

fit tight in the joint, so buy it one size larger than the gap. It costs

about $3 per 20 ft.

Keep the urethane caulk offyour bare hands and clothes; it's

the stickiest stuff you'll ever touch. Wear disposable gloves when

you're tooling the joints. If you get some on your skin, quickly

wipe it offwith a paint thinner-dampened cloth.

-*. #sg

{ fusn foam backer rod into the gap with your fingers. SetI the rod 1/4 in. lower than the surface of the concrete.

Q Cautt< cracks 7/4 in. wide or less without using backer rod.rJ Draw the gun down the crack, smoothing the caulk with thetip as you go.

) fnthe crack with urethane cautk. Snip the opening of theE tube at a 30-degree angle, making the opening the same

size as your gap. Use a smooth, even motion, fi[ing the crack

flush with the surface, beveling it if it's against the house.

Smooth the caulk in wide joints with the back of an old spoon.Wipe the spoon clean as needed with a rag and mineral spirits.

18 PRoJEcrs UNDER $io

Floor-friendly feet for furnitureMost manufacturers put smallmetal buttons on furniturelegs. Metal feet slide easilyacross factory and warehouse

floors, but they can damage

any type of hard flooring inyour house (even ceramictile). On carpet, a spilled drinkcan even lead to rust stains, So

whenever you get a new piece

of furniture, go to your localhome center or hardwarestore, where you'll find a

variety of furniture feet forless than $5.

,l Remoue metat buttons on furniture tegs. IfI a button is sunk deep into the wood and

you can't pry it out, dritt a 1/4-in. hote andlever it out with a small screwdriver.

) StrX setf-adhesive pads to theE [egs or drive in nail-type feet.0n hardwood legs, dritl a pilot hotestightty smaller than the nait shank.

PadsFelt or cloth pads aregentle on ftoors, butthey don't stide as

easily as plastic feet.

Make a sha[low cut lengthwise through theouter jacket, then tightty score around the

cord until you can break the jacket off.

Cut and strip the wires to the length indicated in the strip gauge,leaving as much of the outer jacket as possible.

\ ff1,1:"1 :,5."*,:: il: T,.:":,:::because of rising copper prices, so rebuilding old, damaged ones withnew plugs or receptacle ends ($5) is a smart move.

(Photo I ). Don't push the blade in-just score the rubber jacket gently until you cantear the rubber off, so you don't accidentally cut into one ofthe wires.

strip the wires (look for a stripping gauge on the plug or in the instructions),then separate the wires and screw them into place. This step can be fussp especiallywith stiff l2-gauge wire, but resist the temptation to cut the insulation jacket back-the more of the jacket you can leave inside the plug, the less likely it is to tear or pullout of the plug clamp when the cord is yanked out of an outlet.

close the plug and screw it together tightly so the cord is locked in. This replace-ment plug had a reversible gasket with a curved side for heary cords. other types usescrews to hold the cord in place.

Twist thewires

tight, thenscrew theminto theplug-blackto the goldscrew, whiteto sitver,green togreen.

CAULK CRACKED C0NCRETE; FL00R-FRIENDLY FEET FOR FURNITURE; REPATR 0LD EXTENSTON CORDS 19

Unclog a tub drainwithout chemicals

bout 80 percent of the time, you can fix slow-draining or

clogged tub drains in five minutes, without chemicals and

without a $100 plumber bill. In most cases, you'll only

need a screwdriver and a stiffwire or a bent coat hanger. The prob-

lem is usuallyjust a sticky wad ofhair that collects on the crossbars,

a few inches under the stopper. All you need to do is figure out how

to remove the stopper (that's almost always easy) and fish out the

gunk. Bend a little hook on the end of the stiff wire with a needle-nose

pliers and shove it through the clog-you'll nearly always extract the

entire ugly mess. If hair is wrapped around the crossbars, slice through itwith a utility knife and then grab it with the wire.

Follow this series of photos to determine which type of stopper you

have and how to remove it. The most common type, a drop stopPer

(shown at right), has a setscrew located under the cap.

Pushflock drain stoppersThese stoppers lock and seal when you press

them down and release when you push down L

a second time. The way to remove them isn't , Iso obvious. In most cases you have to hold the \

Drop stoppers

Lift the stopper and loosen the screw on the shaftstightty. Stide the stopper off the shaft.

stem while unscrewing the cap as shown. Withthe cap off, you can sometimes fish out the hair

from the crossbars. Otherwise simply remove the entire

shaft by unscrewing it. You may have to adjust the screw

tension on the stem when you reinstall everything to get a

good seal.

Hold the stopper shaft tightty with a finger and unscrew

the top.

20 spEcrAL sECTroN: 10-MtNUTE ptuMBtNG FIxES

"*\\Levered stoppers

ilxT::::T:il:1#H#::T:L1t"T [T.,P**BMost ofthese have a lever on the overflow plate anda screen over the drain. The screen keeps most hair - ,/out of the drain, but some gets through and eventuallyforms a clog at the crossbars. Simply unscrew the screen for easy

access to this clog and remove it as before, If the drain has an

internal stopper, simply unscrew the overflow plate and pull thelinkage and stopper up and out. Then clean the linkage and stop-per and run water down the drain to flush it out.

Occasionally the linkage is out of adjustment and the stopperdoesn't open far enough from its seat to allow a good flow. Adjustit, reinsert it and test it. Run water into the tub. If it leaks out,Iengthen the stopper linkage to seal the drain better. If the draindoesn't open to let the water out, shorten the stopper linkage.

First remove the screen and clean the crossbars. Then unscrewthe overflow plate, pull out the linkage, clean the stopper andlinkage, and rinse the drainpipes. Readjust the tinkage ifnecessary. Reinstatl the assembly.

.;JIf,;s

Replace a teaky water valveThe key to replacing a leaky water valve is to use a special"slip" or "no-stop" coupling (available at home centers forless than $3). Unlike traditional couplings,

no-stop couplings don't have a flange ordimple that stops the plumbing pipeonce it's inserted halfiuay into the cou-

pling. This lets you install the cou-pling and move it back out of the

way) then have room to insert the

new section ofpipe.Turn off the water, then cut the

pipe about 6 in. from each side ofthe leaky valve, using a pipe cutteror a hacksaw. Place the no-stopcoupling over the existing pipe. Cut a

new section ofpipe to replace the piece

you cut out (be sure to factor in thelength of the water valve). Solder the

pipe to the valve, then stick the assem-

bled section between the two existingpipes. Move the no-stop coupling over

the new pipe, then solder all the joints.

fl\.STOPPED"

COUPLING{TWO

swLEs)

"NO-STOP"COUPLING

Move the no-stop coupling over the pipe assembly, theninstall the new valve and pipe assembly.

Move the no-stop coupling over the pipe assembly, thensotder it to the assembly and the existing pipe.

SPECIAL SECTION: 1O-MINUTE PLUN4BING FIXES

Fast fix for a slow-fitling washer

lf **i*.*#.T*ffr}i.']plugged inlet screens. These screens catch debris inthe water supply and protect a washer's internal parts.

Often, screens clog after a remodeling project or after

work by city crews on water mains. Any work on

water lines can loosen sediment in pipes and lead to

plugged screens.

Cleaning the screens is a simple job. The only

tricky part is removing the screens without wrecking

them (Photo l). Don't just yank them out. Gently

squeeze and twist as you pull.You'll distort the screens

a little, but you can mold them back into shape

with your fingers.

If your screens are cemented inplace by mineral deposits, you may

not be able to remove them withoutdamage. A new pair of screens willcost about $5 at an appliance parts

store. Clean the screens with run- i

ning water or blow out debris withan air compressor. You may have topick and scrape away stubbornparticles with a utility knife.

tip cn..r your washersuppty hoses, too.Some containscreens that can be

removed andcteaned just tikeinlet screens.

'l turn off the hot and cotd water supplies andI disconnect the hoses. Use a pair of needle-nose

pliers to gently remove the screens for cleaning.

) Wort<the clean screen back into the intet by pressing around theIr rim of the screen with a small screwdriver. Reconnect the hoses,

turn on the water and check for leaks.

22 spEctAL sECTI0N: 10-MtNUTE PLUMBING FIxES

If your plumbing bangs and clangs like ametal, you've got "water hammer." Water developt momen-

yffo tum as it flows fast through pipes. When a

valve closes quickly and stops the flow thatmomentum shakes and pounds pipes.Water hammer arresters cure this condi-tion with a cushion of air that absorbs the

SLIDINGPISION

momentum. Before you installarresters, determine which faucets

Quiet clanking pipes

or valves in your house cause thenoise. Washing mac$ines and{dishwashers are prirge sgfo.glgbecause their automaticclose fast. Arresters for washingmachines have screw-on connec-

tions, making them as easy toas a garden hose, Other arresters

connect directly to ll2-in. pipe, oftenunder sinks.You usually have to cut pipes

and add tees to install them. Check thepackagitrg for installation details. Arresters

cost a6out $10 each at home centers andhardware stores.

ARBESTER

WATERMOMENTUM

attach

Fix a slow-running faucetIf the flow from your kitchen or bathroom faucet is weak,the aerator is probably plugged. An aerator can clog slowlyas mineral deposits build up, or quickly after plumbingwork loosens debris inside pipes. Usually, a quick cleaningsolves the problem. Remove the aerator (Photo l) and disas-semble it. You may need a small screwdriver or knife to prythe components apart. Scrub away any tough buildup withan old toothbrush (Photo 2) and rinse each part thoroughly.Gunk can also build up inside the faucet neck, so ream it outwith your finger and flush out the loosened debris.

If the mineral buildup resists scrubbing and you have astandard cylinder-shaped aerator, you can replace it (about

$5). Take your old aerator along to the home center or hard-ware store to find a match. Ifyour aerator has a fancy shape(like the one shown here), finding a match won t be as sim-ple. So try this first: Soak the aerator parts in vinegarovernight to soften mineral buildup. Ifthat doesrt't work, go

to any online search engine and type in the brand of yourfaucet followed by "faucet parts." With a little searching, youcan find diagrams ofyour faucet and order a new aerator,E4pect to spend $10 or more for a nonstandard aerator.

rt Wrap the jaws of a pair ofI pliers with electricat tape

and unscrew the aerator. Closethe stopper so the small partscan't fall down the drain.

trt

ID

@r:dJ Oisassembte the aeratorL and lay out the parts in

the order you remove them tomake reassembly foolproof.Scrub the parts and reassemblethem.

spEctAL sECTt0N: 10-MtNUTE pLUMBtNG FtxEs 23

A trick for splicing inplastic drainpipeWhen working with plastic pipe, don't try to cement (solvent-weld) all the new

couplings when replacing a section at a junction. Most drain systems use rigidpipes fairly large in diameter. You can't flex them enough to slide on that last fit-ting and get it to seat fully. Rather than struggle with cement, pros use a "mis-

sion" coupling (Photos 3 and 4) that clamps over the last joint. Even though a

mission coupling costs $5 to $10, compared with a 500 plastic coupling, the

extra cost is worth it. Sometimes, pros will even use two mission couplings in

tight situations. Photos 1 - 4 walk you through the process. Be sure to buy cou-

plings with full steel sleeves, and make sure mission couplings meet code

requirements in your area.

'l sry and assembte matchingI replacement parts. Mark the

cutting points on the old drainsabout 1/2 in. larger than thereptacement.

a Cut the plastic at a right angteG using a fine-tooth saw andremove the assembly.

L Center the mission couptingrt ouer the third joint and tighten

the bands firmly.

? stia. the mission couptingJ onto one pipe and cementplastic couptings onto the othertwo pipes.

Keep your washing

ffi1":-:':"::"n:,.9between loads and only wash a couple ofloads per week, you'll probabiy notice a

moldy smell after a few months. That's

because the ultra-tightseal on front loaderdoors doesn't let theinterior dry, and

between washings,mold

can grow inside thedamp confines. Andbecause front loaders

use less water than top

loaders (which fill up

almost to the top), they

don't always wash away the mold when

you run a load oflaundry.Eliminating the mold is easy. Just run

the empty washer through a cycle once a

month with a mold cleaner designed for

front loaders, such as Affresh. Buy it at

whirlpool.com ($7 for a pack ofthree) or

find retailers at affresh.com. If you don'twant to use the tablets, you can substitute

a cup ofbleach.

You can prevent mold by treatingthe washer monthly with a mold cleaner

or bleach and keeping the door open

between washings so the interior can

dry out.

21 SPECIAL SECTI0N: 10-MINUTE PLUMBING FIXES

26 Kitchen cabinet rolt-outs

31 Cookware organizer

32 Customize yourkitchen cabinets

33 Instant organizerMeasuring cup hang-upSpice holder

34 Fix a drippy batt-type faucet

36 Make oLd windows like new

4A Renew tired-tooking windows

47 Two-story ctoset shetvesCtoset nook shelves

42 How to stop a running toilet

45 Easy-to-buil"d shoe storage

46 Laundry room improvement

47 Upgrade your recessed lightsTest for lead

SPECIAL SECTI0N: Free projects

48 Extend the tife of yourwater heater

49 Free a sticking storm doorSeaI a drafty door

50 Fix a door [atch thatwon't catch

5t Prevent bathroom motdStripped hinge screw fix

52 Stop washing machine walkDoubte the Ufe of

your paintbrushes

l:

ase cabinets have the least convenient storage space in

the entire kitchen. To access it, you have to stooP way

over or even get down on your knees and then sort

through all the stuffin front to find that particular omelet pan or

storage container in the back. What a pain. Roll-outs solve that

problem. They make organizing and accessing your cabinet con-

tents back-friendly and frustration free.

If you're stuck with cabinets without roll-outs, don't despair.

The following pages show you how to retrofit nearly any base cab-

inet with roll-outs that'll work as well or better than any factory-

built units.

Building the roll-outs is really very easy. Once you take meas-

urements, you can build the roll-out drawer (Photos 2 - 6), its

"carrier" (Photos 7 - 9), and attach the drawer slides (Photos 6

and 7) in your garage or workshop. Mounting the unit in the

cabinet is simple too (Photos 10 - 13). You'll also learn how to

construct a special roll-out for recycling or trash (Photos 14 - I 5).

26 PRoJEcrs $1 o ro $2b

The project will go faster if you have a table saw and a miter

saw to cut all the pieces. A circular saw and cutting guide will work

too; it'll just take a little longer. You can build a pair of roll-outs in

a Saturday morning for about $20 per shelf.

What wood products to buyThese roll-out drawers are made entirely of ll?-in. Baltic birchplywood. Baltic birch is favored by cabinetmakers because it's

"void free," meaning that the thin veneers of the plywood core are

solid wood. Therefore sanded edges will look smooth and attrac-

tive. If your home center doesn't stock Baltic birch, you can find

it at any hardwood specialty store (look under "Hardwood

Suppliers" in the yellow pages to find a source). Baltic birch may

only come in 5 x 5-ft. sheets, so don't expect to fit it in a minivan.

But home centers often carry smaller pieces.

If you choose, you can make the sides of the roll-out drawers

from any lx4 solid wood that matches your cabinets and then

I

!

I

I

I

I

finish them to match your cabinets (use ply-wood for the bases). But if you use 3/4-in. mate-rial for the sides, subtract 3 in. from the dooropening to build the roll-out (not 2-112 in' as

described in Photo 2).

The drawer carriers (Figure A) are madefrom pine 1x4s for the sides (Photo 7) and ll4-in. MDF (medium density fiberboard) for thebases (Photo 9). The MDF keeps the drawerbase spaced properly while you shim and attachit to the cabinet sides. It can be removed andreused for other carriers after installation. IfMDF isn't available, substitute any other l/4-in.hardboard or plywood.

Side-mounted slides are the best choiceamong drawer slide options. Their ball-bearing mechanisms and precise fit makefor smooth-operating drawers that hold 90 lbs.

or more. These roll-outs feature 22-in. full-extension KV brand side-mount drawer slides

that have a 90-lb. weight rating. That meansthey'll be sturdy enough even for a drawer fullof canned goods. Full-extension slides allow theroll-out to extend completely past the cabinetfront so you can access all the contents. Expectto pay about $6 to $15 per set ofslides at anyhome center or well-stocked hardware store.

Measure carefullybefore you buildNearly all standard base cabinets are23-ll4in. d,eep from the inside of the face frameto the back of the cabinet. So in most cases,22-

in.-long roll-out drawer and carrier sides wiliclear the cabinet with room to spare. Checkyour cabinets to make sure that 22-in. roll-outswill work. If you have shallower cabinets, sub-tract whatever is necessary when you build yourroil-outs and their carriers (see Figure A).

Then measure the cabinet width. Thedrawer has to clear the narrowest part of theopening (Photo 1). When taking this measure-ment, include hinges that protrude into theopening, the edge of the door attached to thehinges, and even the doors that won't opencompletely because they hit nearby appliancesor other cabinets. Plan on making the drawerfront and rear parts 2-l12 in. shorter than theopening (Figure A).

Drawers with 3-l12-in.-high sides areshown here, but you can customize your own.Plan on higher sides for lightweighr plasticstorage containers or other tall or tippy items,and lower sides for stable, heavier items likesmall appliances.

LENGTH: OPENING MINUS Z-tl2"WIDTH:3-1l2" SIDE

3-112" x22"

'l open theI cabinet

doors to theirwidest pointand measurethe narrowestpart of thecabinet opening(usually at thehinges).

ROLL.OUTS 27

314" x3-112" x22"

Figure B3/4" x3-112" x22"

,:r'i ;i:i !: :

Carrierassembly

+', f. i,l'.

II

Drawer assemblyall 1/2" plywood

SIDE3-112" x22"

114" MDF

KITCHEN CABINEI

A nip 1/2-in. plywood down to 3-1/2-in.-wide strips and cutL two 22-in. tengths (drawer sides) and two more to themeasured width (from Photo 1) minus 2-t/2 in. (drawer frontand back; Figure A).

Q CUrp or screw two straight l2-in.2x4s to the corner of a

J ftat surface to use as an assembly jig. Use a carpente/ssquare to ensure squareness. Leave a 2-in. gap at the corner.

L spread wood glue on the ends and clamp a drawer sideA] .iO front in p-lace, then pin the corner together with threel-714-in. brads. Repeat for the other three corners.

Drawer slides aren't asconfusing astheyseemAt first glance, drawer slides are pretty hard to figure out, but after

you install one set, youll be an expert. They're sold in pairs and

each ofthe pairs has trvo parts. The "drawer part" attaches to the

roll-out while the "cabinet part" attaches to the carrier. To separate

them for mounting, slide them out to full length and then push,

pull or depress a plastic release to separate the two parts. The

release button position and shape vary among manufacturers, but

ifyou look at the directions, youll be able to figure it out. The

cabinet part, which always encloses the drawer part, is the larger

of the two, and the mounting screw hole locations will be shown

in the directions. (Screws are included with the drawer slides.)

The oversized holes allow for some adjustment, but if you follow

the instructions, you shouldn't have to fuss with fine-tuning later.

28 PROJECTS $1 o ro $25

f, Cut a t/2-in. plywood bottom to size. Appty a thin bead ofJ gtue to the bottom edges, and nail one edge of the plywoodflush with a side, spacing nails every 4 in. Then push the frameagainst the jig to sguare it and nait the other three edges.

When mounting the slides, make sure to hold them flush with the

front ofthe roll-out drawer and carrier sides (Photos 6 andT).

The front of the drawer part usually has a bent metal stop that

faces the front ofthe drawer.

Assembling partsand finishing the roll-outsIt's important to build the roll-out drawers perfectly square for

them to operate properly. Photos 3 and 4 show a simple squaringjig that you can clamp to a corner of any workbench to help. Use

the jig to nail the frame together, but even more important, to

hold the frame square when you nail on the bottom panel. Ifit hangs over the sides even a little, the drawer slides won'twork smoothly.

Use l-1/4-in. brads for all of the assembly. Glue the drawer

f, Separate the drawer stides and space the drawer partV 7/4 in. up from the bottom. Hold it fl.ush to the frontand screw it to the rott-out side.

Q Stia" the drawer and carrier sides together and measure thet/ carrier width. Cut 7/4-in. MDF to that width and 1 in. lessthan the carrier depth (usually 21 in.).

parts together but not the bottom ofthe carrier. It only serves as a

temporary spacer for mounting. (After mounting the carrier anddrawer, you can remove it if it catches items on underlyingdrawers or even reuse it for other carriers.) Ifyou'd like to finishthe roll-out for a richer look and easier cleaning, sand the edges

with 120-grit paper and apply a couple of coats of water-basedpollurethane before mounting the slides.

To figure the spacer thickness, rest the lower carrier on thebottom of the shelf, push it against one side of the cabinet andmeasure the gap on the other (Photo l0). Rip spacers to halfthatmeasurement and cut six of them to 3-112 in. long. Slip the spac-

ers between both sides of the carrier to check the fit. They shouldslide in snugly but not tightly. Recut new spacers if you have to. Inout-of-square cabinets, you may have to custom-cut spacers foreach ofthe three pairs ofspacers, so check each ofthe three spacer

Mount the carrier part of the drawer slide ftush with thebottom and front of the carrier sides.

Q nest the carrier assembly on 3/4-in.-thick spacers, puI theJ carrier sides slightly away from the drawer, then nail on

the carrier bottom (no glue).

positions. It's easiest to tack the spacers to the roll-outs to holdthem in place before predrilling l/8-in. holes and running thescrews through the roll-out frames and spacers and into the cabi-net sides (Photo i t ).

Slip the roll-out into its carrier and check for smooth opera-tion. If you followed the process, it should work perfectly. If itbinds, it's probably because the spacers are too wide or narrowPull out the carrier, remove the spacers and start the spacerprocess all over again.

The best way to level and fasten the upper roll-out is to sup-port it on temporary plywood spacers (Photo 12). The height ofthe spacers is up to you. If, for example, you want to store tallboxes of cereal on the bottom roll-out and shorter items on thetop, space the top roll-out higher. You can even build and installthree or more roll-outs in one cabinet for mega storage of short

7

KITCHEN CABINET ROLL-OUTS 29

'l fl n"tou. the drawer, tip the carrier into the cabinet and

IV pustr the carrier against one side. Measure the gap and

rip six 3-l/2-in.-[ong spacers to half of the thickness.

{ el lait the spacers to the center and each end of theI I carrier sides (not into the cabineti see inset photo).

Then predrill and screw the carrier sides to the cabinet in thecenter of each spacer. Stide the drawer back into place.

4 a Cut ptywood spacers to temporarity support the upperI 4 rott-out and set them onto the carrier below. Rest

the second carrier on the spacers and instatl it as shown inPhoto 11.

items like cans, cutlery or beverages. (Those now-obsolete shelves

you're replacing with roll-outs are good stock to use for your

spacers.) Again, pin the spacers in place with a brad or two to hold

them while you're predrilling and screwing the carriers to the cab-

inet sides. Be sure to select screw lengths that won't Penetrateexposed cabinet sides! In most cases, 1-5/8-in. screws are the best

choice. Strive for 1/2-in. penetration into the cabinet sides. Coun-

tersink the heads as far as necessary to get the proper penetration.

Building wastebasket rol l-outsWastebasket roll-outs are just upside-down versions of standard

roll-outs. That is, the carrier is mounted on the top rather than

the bottom of the roll-out and the slides are positioned at the

bottom edge ofthe carrier sides. That lets the wastebasket lip clear

the MDF. Follow Figure B on p. 27 for the details.

30 PRoJEcrs $1 o ro $2s

{ Q euifU an upside-down version of the carrier and rott-*rJ outs for the wastebasket drawer (Figure B). Center and

trace around the rim of the wastebasket(s). Use a compass tomark the opening 1/2 in. smaller.

This wastebasket roil-out is built inside an 18-in.-wide

cabinet, to fit two plastic containers back to back. Ifyou only have

a 15-in. cabinet to work with, you may be limited to one container

mounted sideways. Buy your containers ahead of time to fityour opening.

With some wastebasket roll-outs, you may need to knock the

MDF free from the carriers after mounting so the wastebasket lips

will clear. That's OK; it won't affect operation.

It may not always work to center roll-out assemblies in all

openings with equal spacers on each side. That's especially true

with narrow single cabinets that only have one pair ofhinges. It's

best to test things before permanent mounting. But if you make a

mistake, it's a simple matter to unscrew the assembly, adjust the

spacers and remount everything.

cabinets with center dividersMany two-door cabinets have a center divider(photo abovel, which cat[s for a stightty differentstrategy. You can stitt buitd rolt-outs, but they'1.1. benarrower versions on each side of the divider.[Check to be sure they won't be so narrow thatthey're impracticat.) The key is to instatI a3/4-in. ptywood, particl.eboard orMDF panel. between the center l

I4:;:;:::.-in' startins hores and cut the openings with

CookwareorganizerMost kitchen base cabinets lack vertical storagespace for big, flat cookware like cookie sheets

and, pizza pans. To provide it, just remove thelower shelf, cut a vertical panel ofplywood andfasten it at the cabinet bottom with furniturebraces and at the top with a strip of wood. Drillholes for the adjusting pins to match the origi-nal locations and trim the shelfto length.

iJ:ffi :t1[T1?;::j "'* /,, *t

ffi{#{l#/ffito support the top ro[t-out position. Center thepane[ on the back sideand middLe of the dividerand screw it into p[ace with1-in. ang[e brackets [they'recompletety out of sight). Use a carpen-ter's square to position the panet perfectty centeredand verticaI on the cabinet back and anchor it there,again using ang[e brackets. Measure, buitd andinsta[t the rotl-outs as shown.

Building roll-outs in

'l f fUount the wastebasket carrier and drawer as shown inIrf Photos 10 and 11.

KITCHEN CABINET ROLL-OUTS: COOKWARE ORGANIZER 31

Customizeyour kitchen cabinets

you have a short cabinet flanked

by two taller cabinets, you can

add this combination shelf/wine rack.

Cut the shelf to length, then add

mounting strips on each end. Cut four

9-in. sections of wine glass molding from

a 3-ft. length, then glue and nail them

to the bottom of the pine shelf. Wine

glass molding is available from Rockler

(rockler.com, item No. 22210). A 24-in.

length costs $13. Cut curved brackets

from each end bf a lx6 maple board and

cut the center 1 in. wide to serve as shelf

edging. Finally, install the unit by driving

screws through the mounting strips and

into the cabinets on each side.

To display your plates and keep them

accessible and chip-free, build and install

this plate rack. The total cost of materials

is about$15.

To create the two plate rack "ladders,"

measure the cabinet, then build each lad-

der so the finished height equals the

height of the inside of the cabinet. The

finished width should be equal to the

width of the face frame opening. Drill3/8-in. holes, 3/8 in. deep in 3/4-in. x 3/4-in.

32 PRoJEcrs $10 ro $2s

Buitd a shelf to fit snugly between adjacent cabinets. Use a jigsaw to create curved

brackets, nail wine glass brackets to the bottom of the shelf, then instatt the entireunit as one piece.

Cut, assemble and install the two plate rack "tadders." Use short screws to secure the

tadders in the cabinet opening. Set the rear ladder 4 in. away from the back of the

cabinet and the front ladder snug against the back of the face frame.

square dowels and space them every A drill press comes in handy, but you

1-112 in. Cut the dowels to length, add can also get good results using a cordless

a drop of glue in each hole, insert the drill, a steady hand and a 3/8-in. drill bit

dowels, then use elastic cords or clamps to with masking tape wrapped around it as a

hold things together until the glue dries. depth guide for the holes in the rails.

f

lnstant organizerY';:;T[::l j:.': t*Tfi:::]:', 6length with a hacksaw e

screws to the back side o

hold the racks in place. The back side of the racksimply rests against the back of the cabinet. Now

you can easily find your soup and check the rest ofyour inventory at a glance.

Measuring cup

L:*:,:f,n.*@ing measuring cups inside a kitchencabinet. Position and mount a wood stripso that the cups will hang between theshelves and allow the door to close com-pletely. Mount a second strip for yourmeasuring spoons, then screw in cup hookson both strips.

SpiceholderIf your spices arejammed into a drawerwith only the topsvisible, this nifty rackthat slips neatly intothe drawer will solve

the problem. And itonly takes an hour tobuild. Make it wirh l/4-in.and l/2-in.plywood.

CUST0I'llZE Y0UR KITCHEN CABINETS; INSTANT ORGANIZER; N4EASURING CUP HANG-UPi SPTCE HOLDER

Fix a drippy

ball-type.rfaucet

hen your single-lever, ball-

tlpe faucet starts dripping,it's time to replace the

parts inside. You'll know you have a

ball-type faucet (vs. a cartridge type) ifit has a dome-shape cap under the

handle (Figure A). This is an easy

repair. Once you have the parts, the

whole thing will take about 45 minutes

and you'll save a whopping $ 125 doing

it yourself)

Everything you need is available in

a repair kit ($15 at home centers).

Most kits include the ball, springs,

seats, O-rings and an Allen wrench.

You'll also need to pick up faucetgrease ($2). There are several different

models and types of ball-style faucets,

so first follow these instructions totake apart your faucet. Then note the

brand and take the old faucet parts

along to the store to make sure you buy

the right repair kit.Before you disassemble your old

faucet, turn off the water at the fixture

shutoff valves under the sink or your

home's main water valve if the individ-ual shutoffs are missing (now is a good

time to install some!). Cover the sink

drain hole with a rag to avoid losing

small parts down the drain.

The only tricky part ofthis repair is

first locating and then loosening the

Allen setscrew (see Photo 1) thatanchors the handle to the stem. The

screw is typically hidden under the

decorative cover. If the faucet is old,

31 PROJEcTS $1 o ro s25

you'll have to use some force with the

Allen wrench to loosen the screw.

Your repair kit may include two dif-

ferent versions of the same part, one

for newer and one for older-modelfaucets. Use the same version as the

existing parts. Most repair kits come

with a hollow stainless steel ball. This

will work well and last longer than the

original plastic ball you might find ifyours is an older faucet. Ifyour faucet

uses an older-style, two-part cam-theplastic cam and a separate cam seal-and your kit comes with only the newer

combined version (see Photo 2), go

ahead and use the combined version.

]ust make sure to discard the existing

adjusting ring located in the cap ofyour faucet or the handle won't fitcorrectly when you reassemble it.

'l r-ltt the handte, pry off the decorativeI couer with your fingernail or a ftat-blade

screwdriver, then loosen the A[ten screwunderneath and lift the handte free.

@b33S,,A

&di. j _.

1. 0Ld-style cam and seaI

2. Combination cam and seal

3. StainLess steel bal.L I

::iiiffi!:"' ')

Figure A

CAPWITHADJUSTING

RING

COMBINATIONCAM AND SEAL

DLE ",7-.".P"_ / HANDLE

ry"64:

#c'rfiilTi€b

DECORATIVESCREW COVER

SPRAYERDIVERTER

] Unr.r.* the cap under the handleG and lift out the cam seal. Make sureto line up the tab on the cam seal withthe slot on the faucet body whenreassembling.

Q rit out the batt. When you put ther/ faucet back together, line up thelong slot on the side of the ball with thepin inside the faucet body.

sEArs C g

r: l:sPRrNGs g I

v\.,.-c#

/. R.rou" both sets of seats andrt springs. When you reassemble thefaucet using newer-style springs, guidethe seats and springs into the hole withthe narrow end of the spring facing up(see Figure A).

f Wlggte the spout free and removeJ it, and then slip out the O-rings.Pick matching sized O-rings from the kit,coat them with faucet grease and slidethem on. Reassemble the faucet by fot-lowing the disassembly steps in reverse.

FIX A DRIPPY BALL-TYPE FAUCET 35

Makeoldwlndowslike new

you're thinking about replacing your

casement windows because they're

drafty, fogged up or just hard to open,

consider this: You can fix most of the

problems yourself for a fraction of the cost ofnew windows-and it won't take you more

than an hour or two per window.

The following pages walk you through the

fixes for the most common casement windowproblems. (Casement windows are the tlpe that

swing like doors.)You won't need any specialty

tools, and the materials are available from most

window manufacturers or online window sup-

ply companies (see the Buyer's Guide, p. 37).

Unless you need to replace the sash, the fixes

cost less than $25.

Although your windows may look different

from the ones shown here, the techniques forremoving the sash and fixing problems are similar.

.J:.:-

If you turn your window handle and nothing

happens, the gears on your handle, crank operator

shaft or both are probably stripped. Take off the handle and

look for signs ofwear. Ifthe teeth are worn, replace the han-

dle (prices start at $5; see the Buyer's Guide, p. 37). If the

shaft is worn, you can replace the whole operator (see the

next fix). But here's a home remedy to try first.

Start by backing out the setscrew to remove the handle

(some newer handles don't have setscrews and simply pull

off-and this fix won't work). If you have a fold-

ing handle, mark where the setscrew is on the

operator shaft when the window is closed

and the handie is folded up. Remove the

handle and file the shaft so the setscrew

;, can lock onto the shaft (photo above

right). The metal is tough; it'lltake about 15 minutes to get a

Fite a flat spot on the operator shaft, then insert a longersetscrew into the handle. The flat side lets the setscrew

lock onto the shaft.

flat side. Or use a rotary tool with a grinder bit to speed up

the job. Vacuum the shavings out of the operator so they

won't harm the moving parts.

Reattach the handle with a longer setscrew (354 at hard-

ware stores). Ifyou open and close the window a lot, this fix

may not hold up in the long run.SETSCREW

v36 PRoJECTS $10 To $25

Replace a stubborn crank operatorIf the splines on the crank operator shaft are worn orbroken off, the gears don't turn easily or at all, then it'stime to replace the crank operator (prices start at $20).

You don't need the make, model or serial number ofthe crank operator. You just need a picture. Snap a digital photo,email it to a hardware suppiy company (see the Buyer's Guide)and the company will sell you a new one. Or mail the company a

print photo. You can also look at online catalogs on the Web siteslisted in the Buyer's Guide to find an operator that matches yours.

To replace the operator, first take the crank arm off the sash.

Most crank arms slip out of a notch on the guide track on the sash(Photo 1). Others are pried offwith a flathead screwdriver, or a

channel is unscrewed from along the bottom of the sash. If theoperator also contains a split arm operator, unhook that, too(Photo 2).

Slide or pry off the operator cover. If you have a removablecover, cut along the casement cover with a utility knife to slicethrough any paint or stain that seals it on the window jamb.Remove the trim screws along the top of the casement cover.Gently pry the cover loose (Photo 3). Be careful-the cover caneasily break! Unscrew the crank operator. Set the new operator inplace, aligning it with the existing screw holes, and screw it to thejamb. If the cover isn't removable, crank operator screws will beaccessible on the exterior of the window.

Buyer's Guide

Blaine Window Hardware. Window hardware, inctuding hard tofind and obsotete hardware parts. WiLt f ind your reptacementparts using your photos. [800) 678-19,19. b[ainewindow.com

Glass Distributors, Window hardware.[301] 77 I -2L30. g tassdistributo rsi nc.com

Prime-Line Products. Reptacement handLes.Pri me-[i ne-prod ucts. com

Replacement Hardware Mfg. Window hardware, including

9!_s-qL9te parts WiLl frnd reptacement parts using your photos.

[800) 780-5051. rep[acementhardware.com

Truth Hardware. Window hardware. Refers homeowners toregionaL distributors, which can find parts using your photos.[800) 866-7884. truth.com

Figure A. ri .l :::,i':.:.- l rlrl:;;1,:'.'i

.ri-,:rla:-r,i':.,i....,i

When you turn the handle, the operator moves the crankarm and the split arm operator. The split arm operatorthen opens the window sash, Casement window operatorscome in several styles. They may look complex, butthey're easy to disconnect, remove and replace.

{ Op"n the window until the crank arm bushing is atignedI with the guide track notch. push down on the arm to pop

the bushing out of the track.

3 Lift off the casement cover to expose the crank operator.Remove the screws, take out the crank operator and replace it.

) SUa" back the retainer clip on the arm and pry the arm offL the stud on the sash bracket with a screwdriver.

MAKE OLD WINDOWS LIKE NEW 37

SLIDEOFF

i

-ffi;|.

I

'l Op"n the sash and disconnect the crank arm. Pry the splitI arm operator off the top and the bottom of the sash with a

screwdriver (the hinge arms easily pop off).

Fix a sticking windowIf you have a window that drags against the frame

when you open it, close the window and examine itfrom the outside. The sash should fit squarely and be

centered in the frame. If not, you can adjust the position of the

sash by slightly moving the hinge channel. (lf the window is cen-

tered and square but stili drags, see the next fix.)

You can move the channel at the top or the bottom ofthe win-

dow, depending on where the sash is dragging (but don't move

both channels). Start by taking out the sash (Photos I and2).Ifthe hinge arm is screwed to the sash, see Photo I, p. 39.

Mark the hinge channel location on the frame, then unscrew

the channel. Fill the screw holes with epory (for vinyl windows)

or wood filler (for wood windows). Filling the holes keeps the

screws from realigning with their old locations when you reinstall

the channel. Scrape the filled holes smooth before the epoxy sets.

Place the channel back on the jamb, about i/8 in. over from the

mark (move the channel away from the side of the sash that's

dragging), drill 1/8-in. pilot holes and then reinstall it (Photo 3).

Stide the hinge shoes out of the hinge channels at the topand bottom of the window to remove the sash.

Set the hinge channel in place, slightty over from its formerlocation. Dri[[ new holes, then screw it to the jamb.

2

3

ftt

Align the new hinge arm with the screw holes and fasten it into place.

If the screw holes are stripped out, filt them with toothpicks dipped

in wood glue, let the glue dry, then cut the toothpicks ftush.

Over time, hinge arms that support heary win-

dows can start to sag, causing the sash to hitthe frame in the lower corner that's opposite

the hinge. First make sure the window sash is

square and centered in the window opening. If it's

not, see the previous fix. To eliminate drag in a win-

dow that fits squarely, replace the hinge arms at the

top and the bottom ofthe window. You can buy the

hinges at window hardware supply stores (see the

Buyer's Guide, p. 37). Prices start at $16.

Remove the sash from the window. The hinge

arms are located near a corner or in the middle ofthe window frame. Unscrew the hinge arms from

the window, then install the new ones in the same

locations (photo left).

'4

38 PROJECTS $10 TO $25

{ fate off the sash by removing the screws in theI channel and the hinge arms. Then slide the sash off

the hinge arms.

Ifyou have broken giass or fogging (condensation betweenthe glass panes), you'll have to replace the glass or the entiresash (but it'll cost you more than $251). If the sash is in goodshape (not warped or cracked), you can sometimes replacejust the glass. Call your window manufacturer to see whetherglass replacement is an option and if a fogged window is cov-ered under your warranty. You'll need the information that'setched into the corner ofthe glass and the sash dimensions.

Contact a glass repair specialist to have only the glass

replaced (look under "Glass Repair" in the yellow pages).

) nign the sash lip with the hinge arms, then stide theh sash onto the hinges. Insert screws to fasten the sashin ptace.

Prices start at $i60 for a 17 x 36-in. window. Or you canreplace the sash yourself. Order it through the manufacturer(prices start at $l 10).

To replace the sash, first remove the old one. you take offthe sash shown here by removing the hinge screws (photo 1 ).For sashes that slide out, see Photos I and 2,p.38. Removeany hardware from the damaged sash and install it on thenew sash (this sash doesn't require any hardware).

Instali the new sash by sliding it onto the hinge arms,then screw it to the hinges (Photo 2).

Seal a drafty windowWeather stripping often becomes loose, worn ordistorted when the sash drags or when the strip gets

sticky and attaches itself to the frame, then pulls loose whenthe sash is opened. Windows have weather strip on the sash,

frame or both. Regardless of its location, the steps forremoving and replacing it are the same. Weather strippingis available from your window manufacturer (prices start at

$15). The window brand and glass manufacturer date are

etched in the corner of the glass or in the aluminum spacer

between the glass panes. You'll also need the height andwidth of your sash (take these measurements yourself).

If the weather strip is in good shape and loose in only a

few places, like the corners, apply a dab of polyurethanesealant ($5 at hardware stores) to the groove and press theweather strip into place. Otherwise, replace the entireweather strip. First remove the sash and set it on a worksurface so you can access all four sides. Ifthe weather stripis one continuous piece, cut it apart at the corners with a

utility knife.

Starting at a corner, pull the weather strip loose from thesash (photo right). Ifthe spline tears offand remains stuckin the groove, make a hook from stiff wire to dig it out.

Work the new weather strip into the groove, starting at a

corner. You'll hear it click as the strip slides into the groove.

Work the otd weather strip out of the groove gently to avoid tearing itand leaving the spline stuck in the groove.

ls the windsw "glued" shut?lf the window is stuck shut, it's Likel.y that the weatherstrip is sticking. After you muscte it open, spray siLiconeLubricant on a rag and wipe it on the weather stripping.Silicone [ubricants, such as DuPont TefLon, start at $4.Don't use oiLy Iubricants; they attract dust.

Ail

-:,.: -

MAKE oLD wtNDows LtKE NEW 39

looking windowsood windows with a natural finish on the

inside look great when they're new, but

moisture, temperature swings and harsh

sunlight eventually make the varnish fade and flake

away, especially along the bottom of the window sash

and on the sill. It looks like an intimidating job, but

usually the only part of the window that needs work is

along the bottom-the rest of the sash and trim can

just be lightly sanded and recoated.

The first step is to match the stain and finish. The

easiest way to do this is to take a piece of the trim to a

paint store to have it matched (Photo I ).

Scrape off any worn varnish (Photo 2), then sand

with 120- or 150-grit sandpaper. In partially damaged

areas, feather the sanding into the undamaged areas,

then lightly sand the rest ofthe piece to prepare it for a

new finish (Photo 3). You don't need to sand and

recoat the entire window ifonly a few pieces need it-just stop at an edge or corner.

Stain the wood (Photo 4) and apply two coats ofoutdoor-grade finish. If the gloss doesn't match the

older varnish, buff it lightly with extra-fine steel wool

or a pad to dull it.

Renew tired-

ffr

a ur" a sharp scraper to remove old4 finish. Putt the scraper smoothly

and carefully to avoid gouging the wood.

Q SanA side pieces heavily in worn-J out areas and liqhtly elsewhere.

Stop at edges or corners next to undam-aged wood.

L nua stain into the sanded sectionsI* of the window. Wipe off quickly,

then appty more as needed to darkenthe color.

cl Carefull.y remove the wood cover of the casement operator (or otherI piece of trim) and use it to match the stain,

10 PROJECTS sio ro $25

Closet nookshelvesSalvage the hidden space atthe recessed ends of your closets

by adding a set of shelves. Wire shelves are

available in a variety of widths. Measurethe width and depth of the space. Thenchoose the correct shelving and ask thesalesperson to cut the shelves to length foryou, or cut them yourself with a hacksaw.

Subtract 3/8 in. from the actual width todetermine the shelf length. Buy a pair ofend mounting brackets and a pair ofplastic clips for each shelf.

There's a lot of space above the shelf in most closets. Even though it's a rittle hard toreach, it's a great place to store seldom-used items. Make use of this wasted space byadding a second shelfabove the existing one. Buy enough closet shelving material tomatch the length of the existing shelf plus enough for two end supports and middlesupports over each bracket. Twelve-inch-wide shelving (about $10 for an g-ft.length) is available in various lengths and finishes at home centers and lumberyards.These supports are cut 16 in. long, but you can place the second shelf at whateverheight you like. screw the end supports to the walls at each end. Use drywall anchorsif you can't hit a stud. Then mark the position of the middle supports onto the topand bottom shelves with a square and drill 5132-In. clearance holes through theshelves. Drive l-5/8-in. screws through the shelfinto the supporrs.

Make the most of the recesses at theends of your closet with wire shetving.

TWO-STORY CTOSET SHELVESi CLOSET NOOK SHELVE5

Double the shelf space in your closet by adding a second shelfabove the existing one.

Two-story closet shelve3

ila-

RENEW TIRED.LOOKING WINDOWS 11

How to stop a

runnlnqtollet '

oilets haven't changed much in the last 80 years. After a flush,

water still fills a tank, lifting a float that shuts off the water

when it reaches a certain level. A lever still opens a

o

flapper to cause the flush, falling back into place when

the water level drops. So it's no surprise (nor any

consolation) that you face the same flush prob-

lems today that your grandparents did. Sometimes

the flush is too wimpy, sometimes the water keeps

running, and sometimes the bowl doesn't refill.

On the following pages you'llfind a simple

four-step strategy to solve 95 percent of these

problems. You can complete the first three

steps in five minutes. That'll solve most prob-

lems. The fourth step is usually easy too, but

not always. More on this later. These steps work

for most toilets but not for pressure-assist models.

12 PRoJEcrs $1 o ro $25

AE

*r{

-r6-r

Check thefiil

Remove the tank lid and

tube rt,s a smari nexibre J-i-Cfrom the filI valve to the overflow tube. Whilethe tank refilis, this tube squirts enough waterdown the overflow tube to refill the bowl afterthe completed flush. If this tube falls off or thewater stream misses the overflow tube, the bowlwon't fill and your next flush will be wimpy(that is, won't develop a strong siphon). Re-

attach the fill tube and make sure it runs aboutI in. above the rim of the overflow tube. Flushthe toilet and watch the water stream to makesure it goes down the overflow tube.

Push the fitt tube firmly onto the fitl valve.Make sure the fill tube sends water into theoverflow tube.

Adjust the float to set the water levet. pinch the clip and stide thefloat up or down on the rod. Keep adjusting the float until thewater shuts off at the proper [eve[.

FILLTUBE

OVERFLOWTUBE ,

(

\,

Adjust thefill heiqht

The water level in the tank is controlled by an adjustable float.A float that's set too low produces a weak flush; if it,s set toohigh, water spills into the overflow tube and the fill valve won'tshut off. The water will keep running. Look for the fill levelmark on the inside back of the tank and mark it on the over-flow tube so you can see it more easily. If you can,t find it,measure down about I in. on the overflow tube and make a

mark. Then flush the toilet and see if the water reaches andstops at that mark. If not, adjust the float up or down. If youhave an old toilet, you'll have to bend the brass rod that con-nects to the float ball to make adjustments. But with newer toi-lets you usually turn a screw or slide a clip along a rod. Flushthe toilet after each adjustment.

Also make sure that the water level is at least an inch belowthe C-L (critical level) marked on the fiIl valve. you can adjustthe height of many valves to raise or lower the C-L.

Occasionally the fill valve simply won't shut ofi whichmeans that it's defective. If so, turn the water supply off at theshutoffunder the tank. Buy a replacement valve ($6 to $10 athardware stores and home centers). You don't have to matchthe old one; many, like the one shown here, fit most toilets. It,sa 1 5-minute change-out.

How ro srop A RUNNTNG TotLET A3

Adjust the flushhandlefilapper chain

A chain that's too short or tangled won't allow the flapper to

close and water will continue to leak into the bowl. This

causes the fill valve to cycle on and off to refill the tank. A

chain that's too long, or a flush rod that hits the tank lid, won't

open the flapper wide enough to stay open for the full flush. You'll find

yourselfhaving to hold the lever to complete a good flush.

To avoid these problems, adjust the linkage in the chain to leave only

a slight bit of slack when closed. Cut the chain at the rod to leave oniy

about an inch extra to reduce the potential for tangles. Then put the

tank lid back on and make sure the flush rod doesn't strike the lid when

you press the lever. If it does, bend it down slightly and readjust

the chain.

Unsnap the otd flapper and take it with you to the store tofind an exact replacement. In addition to the closestreplacement, pick up a "universal" type.

Adjust the chain to leave a littte slack with the flapperclosed. Then cut off the excess, leaving about an inch.

Replacethe flapper

If you've completed the first three steps and your toilet still runs,

chances are you have a worn-out flapper. Turn offthe water, remove the

old flapper and take it to the store to find an exact replacement. (Hard-

ware stores often carry a wide variety.) Most flappers snap over ears on

the overflow tube. Others have a ring that slips over the tube.

Now here's the catch. You may not find an exact match. The range offlapper styles has expanded over the last I 5 years, and you may find I 5 to

20 flapper options on the store shelf. Some packages include specific

brand and model information (so note yours before you leave home).

Others have a "universal" label. Ifyou can't find an exact replace-

ment, try the closest one and pick

up a universal type as well. They're

cheap ($2 to $3), and the extra one

just might save you a second tripto the store! (Avoid the"adjustable" types unless you're

replacing an adjustable one.)

Install the new flapper and

make sure it opens and closes

freely. Then test it. If the water

continues to run or runs intermittently, you're not getting a good seal.

Try a different flapper.

Ifyou just can't find a flapper that seals, consider replacing the entire

overflow tube/flapper (about $10). On most toilets (two-piece), this

means removing the tank. It's not difficult and you don't need special

tools. It'll take you about an hour, and you'll avoid that $100 plumber

service call.

tip w".,- pLrrti.gtoves whenyou remove theflapper. A finebtack fi[m oftenbuitds up on

rubber surfacesand is hardto scrub off yourha nds.

11 PRoJEcrs g1o ro g2s

Easy-to-bui ldshoe storage ($

{ Ct.rp the 1x3 support to a piece of scrapI wood as you dri[[ the hotes to prevent the

wood from splintering.

ithout constant vigilance, shoes

tend to pile up into a mess next

to entry doors. Untangle themess with a simple, attractive shoe ladderthat keeps everything from boots to slip-pers organized and offthe floor.

Cut and drill the dowei supports (Photo1), then screw them to 1x4s (Photo 2). Cutthe lx4s to fit your shoes and the availablespace-an average pair of adult shoes needs

l0 in. of space. Nail or glue the dowels intothe dowel supports, leaving2 in. (or more)extending beyond the supports at the endto hang sandals or slippers.

Apply a finish before you mount theshoe ladder to the wall. Screw the shoe lad-der to studs or use heary-duty toggle-boltstyle anchors to hold it in place.

) eredrill through the back of the 1x4 into the 1x3 supports, then glue and screw the*x pieces together.

H0w r0 sT0p A RUNNTNG T0tLET; EASy_T0_BUtLD sHoE sTORAGE 15

L,'U

Laundry room

CLOSET ROD.,# BRACKET

*mropr*w&his project will save you hours of ironing and organizing.

Now you can hang up your shirts and jackets as soon as

they're out of the dryer-no more wrinkled shirts at the

bottom of the basket. You'll also gain an out-of-the-way upper

shelf to store all sorts of odds and ends.

Just go to your home center and get standard closet rod

brackets, a closet rod and a precut 12-in.-deep Melamine shelf (all

for about $25). Also pick up some drywall anchors, or if you have

concrete, some plastic anchors and a corresponding masonry bit.

Follow the instructions in Photos I and2.

t ip *, can get these great-tooking Lido RaiL chromebrackets and rod at home centers or buy themon-Line. 0ne source is aubuchonhaTdware.com.

WALL STUDLOCATION

i.,

t',]

ti'rir--;l-

f,$t)

tfi oraw a [eve[ line about 78 in.t above the floor and locate the

studs behind the drywall. Fasten

at least two of your ctoset rod

brackets into wall studs (4 ft.apart) and then center the middlebracket with two 2-in.-[ong screwsinto wa[[ anchors (inset).

15 PRoJEcrs $10 ro s2b

$ Fasten your 12-in.-deep Metamine shetf onto the tops of& tne brackets with 1/2-in. screws. Next, insert your closet

rod, drill 1/8-in. holes into the rod, and secure it to thebrackets with No. 6 x 7/2-in. sheet meta[ screws.

i!'r:r I

iltiltfl:l@won't catch -

hen a door latch won't catch, it'sbecause the latch doesn't align withthe hole in the strike plate. Sometimes

you can clearly see the misalignment. If not, do

the "lipstick test" (Photo l ).

Tighten the hinges first. If you find that the

latch contacts the strike plate too high or too low,

make sure all the door's hinge screws are tight. Ifthat doesn't solve the problem, remove one of the

screws on the jamb side of the hinge and drive in a

3-in. screw. The long screw will grab the wallframing and draw in the whole doorjamb slightly.

To raise the latch, do this at the top hinge. To lower

the latch, do it at the bottom hinge.

Enlarge the strike plate hole. If long screws

don't solve the too-high or too-low problem,

measure the misalignment of the lipstick marks

on the strike plate. If the latch misses the strike

plate hole by l/8 in. or less, remove thestrike plate and enlarge its hole with a file (Photo

2). A half-round file ($6 at home centers and

hardware stores) matches the curve of the latch

hole.

Move the strike plate. If the latch contacts the

strike plate at the correct level but doesn'tgo in far enough, or if the latch strikes more than

1/8 in. too high or too low, you'll have to reposi-

tion the strike plate. You can move it up or down

and in or out. Use a sharp chisel to enlarge the

strike plate mortise (Photo 3). Then hold the

strike plate in place and drill new 1/16-in. holes

for the screws. Install the strike plate and fill the

gap in the mortise with wood filler. Remove the

strike plate to paint or finish the patch.

{ Sr"rt tipstick on the latch and stick masking* tape to the strike ptate. Ctose the door to deter-

mine where the latch contacts the plate.

$ Remove the#* strike plate,place it in a viseand enlarge thehole with a file.You may also have

to enlarge the holein the doorjamb,

ft ruarr the new*s positionof the strike ptate

and enlarge themortise with a

chisel. You may

also have to entargethe latch hole inthe jamb.

t----lF

50 SPECIAL SECTI0N: FREE PR0JECTS

Prevent bathroom motd eEliminating dampness is the key to keeping mold from growing. To do that, followthese steps:

First, after a bath or a shower, squeegee water off the shower wails. That elimi-nates at least three-fourths of the moisture that supports mold and mildew growth.

second, run your bath fans during your bath or shower and for a halfhour afterto flush out moisture. Or add a timer switch to make this step automatic.

Third, ifyou have tile, seal the grout lines annually with a standard grout sealerto watelproof them.

To get rid of existing mold, scrub it with detergent and water, then let the surfacedry completely. Or use a solution of l0 percent bleach and90 percent water (a stronger bleach solution will notgive better results). Spray or brush on the solution, letit sit 10 minutes, then rinse it offand let dry.

If the fans aren't clearing out most of the moisturein your bathrooms after five to 10 minutes, your fansmay not be moving enough air. Fans are certified by thevolume (cfm, or cubic feet per minute) of air "exhausted,,out of the room. To find the recommended fan capacityfor your bathroom, simply multiply the bathroom square footage by(assuming an 8-ft. ceiling; for a 9-ft. ceiling, multiply by t.S).

FAN VOLUME(CUBIC FEET

PER MINUTE)

FAN LABEL

The screws holding the top hinges carry most of the weightthe door and are almost always the first to pull out, especial

Stripped STRIPPED-OUTSCFEW HOLEhinge screw fix

One day the door closes smoothly; the next day it,s sticking.And the sticking grows worse as the weeks pass. It's a commonold-house problem, but it can happen anywhere kids hangfrom doorknobs.

they've been repeatedly tightened over the years (inset photo). The best way tobeefthem up is to replace the standard 3/4-in. hinge screws with at least two 3-in.screws that go through the jambs and solidly anchor into the framing. If the doorhas a large hinge with four screwholes, just drive 3-in. screws straight through thetwo holes toward the center of the door. However, if the hinge has only threeholes, add a 3-in. screw through the middle hole and redrill the top screw hole at aslight angle so the screw hits solid wood (photo right).

start the drill bit at a sharp angle so the bit doesn't follow the ord screw hoie.As soon as you feel a fresh hole starting, tip the drill bit back to an angle that willhit the stud-the angle shown here should work for most doors. If the bit orscrew feels like it's sliding offto the side between the drlwali and wood, redrili at asharper angle.

screw the hinge back in with yellow dichromate (zinc-plated) screws-thecolor and head size of these rust-resistant drywall screws are a good match forstandard brass hinge screws. If the door doesn't shut properly after all the screwsare driven in, they may have been driven in too far, pulling the door frame out ofplumb. Just back the screws out a few turns.

f:of

-'1ly after

\\__ 1/2"DRYWALL

Replace short hinge screws with longscrews when the screw holes no longerhold. Angle the long screws toward thestuds to make sure they catch.

SPECIAL SECTI0N: FREE PR0JECTS 51

Stop washing machine walkIf your washing machine has been making loud thumping noises

and moving across the floor when it's in spin cycle, it probably

needs to be leveled. Fortunately, it's an easy fix, though you may

need a helper to tilt up the machine.

Push the machine back into position if it has moved across the

floor. Adjust the front legs

to make the machine level

across the front and from

front to back (Photo 1).

The legs can usually be

turned by hand after the

locking nut at the top of

e! litt ttre machine slightty withI . pry bar to take the weight

off the front [egs, then turn thelegs until the side of the washeris ptumb.

{l fignten the tocking nut up against the6 frare of the washing machine to keep

the leg from turning.

p tt ttr" rear leveling mechanism is

-l froten with rust, tap the tegs a fewtimes with ptiers or a hammer to breakthe mechanism free.

'$ Nove the paint-* brush around in a

bucket of water to wash

out the paint, then runit under water.

#nrxhle the Lff*nf ynur patnthrushfrsTo get a lifetime of use out of your paintbrushes, clean

each one immediately after using it, before the latex paint

has a chance to dry. Start by wiping the brush on newspa-

per to remove excess paint. Then stick the brush into a

bucket of warm water (Photo 1). Move the brush around

to remove as much paint as possible. Next, hold the brush

under running water. Run a wire brush (or a kitchen

fork) down the bristles to remove dried paint, especially

near the handle (Photo 2). When the water running offthe bristles turns clear, the brush is clean.

Let each paintbrush air dry, then wrap it with the

cardboard cover it came in or heavy paper (like grocery

bag paper). To keep the bristles straight, hang the brushes

from a nail or hook, or store them flat.

the threads is turned down, but if the threads are rusted, use

a wrench.

After leveling, lock the leg into place with the locking nut(Photo 2).

Most washing machines have self-adjusting rear legs that level

from side to side, but dirt, lint and rust may keep them fromworking properly. If the back isn't level, tip the washing machine

up a few inches and then set it back down so the weight of the

machine loosens the legs. If the machine still doesn't level out,

the self-leveling support may be rusted against the washing

machine frame. Tip the machine off the ground, then break the

self-leveling support loose by tapping the legs (Photo 3).

52 SPECIAL SECTl0N: FREE PR0JECTS

'$ Use a wire brush to remove

&' the paint from the bristles.

54

58

67

62

66

77

72

73

74

SPECIAL SECTION:

Must-have tools under 950

76 Pocket hoLe jigVersatite vise

Venetjan plaster watls

Space-saving wa[[ niche

Mud-busting boot scraper

Regrout a shower

Get a weed-free yard

Quick fix for dirty dryer vents

Repair a drippy shower

Quiet a noisy fan

Garage ceiling storage

77

78

Patm-sized screwdriverpacks a punch

Back pocket square

Muttiuse tooI that reatly worksThree toots in oneDuat-use wire stripperSingte-squeeze cautk gun

Best ro[Ler cteaner everStripped screw remover10-use paint toolBig-grip spring clamps

53

\-..-..;-

C

\bnetlan eplaster waus

aybe you've decided that red bedroom walls just aren'tyou. Maybe you think your 2-year-old could havesponge-painted better than the previous owners of

your home. Whatever the case, if you're ready for a new look inyour bedroom, bath, dining room-or just about any other roomin the house-Venetian plaster could be for you.

A decorative wall technique once considered a difficult projecttackled only by pros, Venetian plaster is now easy to apply in a

simple multistep process. With this solid-color product in a can,you can add a rich visual texture with highlights and shadows. It'sas simple as patching and painting walls, and inexpensive, too. Fora project like this in an average-size bedroom, you'Il spend $33 forthe plaster and $12 for the top coat (ifyou want one).

Getting startedYour home center or paint store will mix and blend the coloredplaster just like ordinary paint so itt ready to use right out of thecan. Don't be fooled when you open the can and see just a solidcolor. The subtle color differences you see in the final job are partofthe process ofapplying, sanding and tooling the plaster.

Prep the room just as you would for any paint job by cleaningwalls and filling holes. Mask the areas you don't want paintedsuch as around windows, doors and baseboards. You can plasterover any paint that's sound, but if the paintis glossy or semigloss, wipe it down with a

deglosser (available at paint stores andhome centers for $6.50).

You can create a two-color wall like thisone or use the Venetian plaster productfrom floor to ceiling with dramatic effects.

If you want two colors, paint the top firstand allow it to dry so you won't drip painton the Venetian plaster below. When figur-ing the proportions for a wainscot, keep inmind that it'll look best about one-third ofthe way up from the floor to the ceiling. Youcan go a bit higher up the wall, but keep

from going as far as halfi,vay up. This will divide the room inro adistinct top and bottom and look odd.

With the room prepped, mask off the wall just above whereyou'll be plastering. Measure up from the floor in several locationsand mark a level line with a straightedge. Use a 2- to 3-in.-widestrip of tape so you can stroke freely and not be tempted to makesmaller strokes at the top. Also, open a window in the room.Although this product has very low odor, adequate ventilation isnecessary until it dries.

Trowelit onWhen you're buying your materials, pick up a drywall mud pan likethe one shown in Photo 2 to hold the colored plaster while you,respreading it on the wall. The long top edges have a sharp rim towipe your drywall knife clean. Also buy a 5-in. flexible drywallknife to spread the product on the walls. You could use a 4-ll2-in.or a 6-in. knife instead, with slightly different effects. practice on ascrap of painted drywall to get the hang of it. Your home center paintdepartment may also have small boards available to practice on.

Before you start, sand the corners of the drywall knife toround them slightly to keep the tool from leaving sharp ridgesand digging into the wall. Start applying the plaster to the wall ina corner and work your way along the wall as shown in photo 3.

Don't try to do the whole wall in one coat.You'll find it easiest to trowel an even coaton a 3- to 4-ft. section with your knife at a

sharp 15- to 2O-degree angle and then go

back and do random strokes with the knife,alternating left to right and right to left.You'll see the original color ofthe wall showthrough on the first coat, but this is good. Ifyou don't see some of the wall beneath,you're putting the plaster on too thick. Aftereach 6-ft. section, stop and examine thewall. Tool any section with heavy ridges andeven it with a clean trowel before it dries,then move along.

'*g'h*

VENETIAN PLASTER WALLS 55

WwF'"--

100-GRtTSANDPAPER

,l nound the corners of a standard 5-in. drywall knife toI prevent the toot from digging in.

,5'ANGLEOB LESS

? lppfy the colored plaster mix with your drywatl knife inrJ random strokes back and forth at about 45 degrees tovertical. Avoid heavy buitdup.

Fillthe voids with the second coatWait for the first coat to dry, from two to four hours, then apply

the second. Load your knife and fill in the voids with strokes ofyour knife. Repeat the randomness of the first coat and the com-

bination of the two coats will add up to a great-looking, varied

texture later. Hold the drywall knife at a bit steeper angle, at least

45 degrees to the wall. Look for the spots where the first coat didn't

cover and apply plaster in those areas. Again, after each 6-ft.

section, go back and check your work, making sure the wall is ade-

quately covered and the wall color behind doesn't show through.

The plaster should be about 1/8 in. thick in the thicker areas and

thinner elsewhere, so judge your job accordingly. Remember, the

finished job will have more visual texture than actual texture.

You'll find that outside corners can build up quickly, so try to

keep them as even as the rest of the wall. If the plaster is too thin,

you can always go back and dab corners with a small paint brush

later. When you've finished the room, let this coat dry for 24 hours

before moving to the next step. The job will look a bit sloppy at

56 PRoJEcrs $25 TO $so

) lransfer the Venetian plaster mix to a drywatl pan so it'sIr easier to scrape the excess off the knife. The plaster is a

bit thinner than joint compound but thicker than paint.

L finitn one wall section at a time. Go back after each

I section and remove any btotches thicker than 1/8 in.before they dry.

this stage, so don't be disappointed. The final steps will bring the

walls to life.

Sanding and burnishingcreate a visualdepthSand the walls with 400-grit sandpaper clamped into a stiff rub-

ber sanding block (Photo 6). Just fold a full sheet into thirds and

then put it into the block. As you sand (wear a dust mask), you'll

see the character in the finish develop as the foreground appears

lighter and the background stays a bit darker. Keep sanding untilyou get a uniform appearance. Don't worry about sanding

through the plaster finish, because the paper is very fine. Change

sandpaper as the sheets wear out or clog. You'll need about four

sheets for an entire room. Wipe all the sanded areas with clean,

dry cloths to remove the residue and then vacuum the floor and

sanded areas with the brush attachment.

Now it's time to burnish the surface (Photo 7) with your steel

drywall knife. Start anywhere, holding the knife at about a 30-

t:- RoL

7I

5" DRYWALLKNIFE

!iEF*-=r:

f, frowel on the second coat once the first is thoroughlyJ dry. Again using random strokes. fitl in the voids wherethe undercoat shows, turning the knife from left to right andthen from right to left.

f,, SanU the second coat with 400-grit sandpaper oncelJ it has dried (24 hours) to remove heavy ridges. A 3-ft. x3-ft. section needs about one minute of vigorous sanding. Rubdown the entire surface with clean, dry cotton cloths.

degree angle to the wall. Pull the knife blade along the wa

with long, bold strokes. The direction isn't particularlytant; just be sure you go over each square foot of walltimes. The high spots of

- I I ,j

the thin texture will get ,. _* *n*+rg{iug i li ::.".

J e* the knife briskty over the surface in tong, botd strokesf to smooth the high spots and create a luster as well as

darken areas to develop contrast and character.

Q fuft the painter's masking tape gentl,y from the watl tol/ avoid lifting the paint beneath. Using your utility knife,carefu[[y cut the texture atong the joint where the baseboardmeets the wall. This will allow you to easily peel back the tape.

Venetian plasterBehr Venetian Plaster is avai[able in galton contain-ers, which cover approximateLy '1 50 sq. ft. for thetwo coats shown. You can choose from more than20 stock co[ors. ltalian Cypress, cotor No. VP40, wasused for this project. For more information on BehrVenetian Ptaster, go to behr.com and Look under

"Products," then ctick on "lnte-

rior Products." Then go to"Faux & Decorative Finishes."An optionaL water-based poty-urethane topcoat is avai[ab[efor added durabiLity.0therbrands are avaiLable at homecenters and paint stores.

vENETTAN PLASTER wALLs 57

a bjt darker una pot- @Hffi t t .

ished as you move 4#ffi i l'i'Ttinct levels of colorfrom the backgroundto the foreground.Once you've finishedthe wall, remove themasking tape slowlyand step back to admireyour work.

#Ftrq@{

fl, *

wW$

and easy, but it's not absoluteiy necessary (you

can hand-nail instead). You'll also need a router

with a 1/4-in. round-over bit and a l/4-in. Roman

ogee bit to rout the shelves and sill nose.

Where to put the cabinetThis cabinet is installed next to the shower, but it'Il also fit nicely

behind the bathroom door if there's no other available space.

In most cases, it won't work over the toilet because there's a vent

pipe in the wall. Also avoid exterior walls because they're filled

with insulation.

When choosing a location, check both sides of the wall for

obstructions. A light switch or showerhead on the other side ofthe

wall means the wall contains electrical cable or plumbing pipes.

You could also choose a different room. The cabinet can

store-or display-anything you like in the hallway, bedrooms or

family room.

The cabinet fits between studsinside the waLt, so it'IL work in even

the tiniest bathroom. UnLike a

watL-hung shel.f, the cabinet letsyou gain storage space withoutsacrificing etbow room.

space-saving Wa I I n iChgyou need to carve out more storage space in your bath-

room, this is the project for you. Bathrooms are notori-

ously cramped, so this cabinet is designed to fit inside a

wall where it won't take up valuable space. The width is slightly

narrower than the l4-ll2-rn. stud space, so the cabinet will fiteven if the studs are a little off center or bowed.

The following pages show you how to build and installthe cabinet. You can complete the project in just one weekend:

Build and stain (or paint) it on Saturday, then stick it in the wall

on Sunday.

Tools and materialsEverything you need for this project is available at home centers.

It's made out of oak, which kept the cost to about $48. You'd pay

$135 to more than $500 to buy a cabinet like this in a store.

To complete the project, you'll need a miter saw a circular saw

or table saw' and a drl.wall saw. A brad nailer will make nailing fast

58 PRoJEcrs $2b ro $bo

Figure Awall niche f&?Y[yP'-o''n

,trrr"rif3

LCut, rout anddrillthe piecesGet started by cutting all the pieces to size(refer to Figure A). Then run a router with a

Roman ogee bit along the bottom front andboth bottom sides of the sill nose. Use a

round-over bit to rout the top and bottomfront ofthe shelves.

Apply wood glue along the front edge ofthe sill, center the sill nose over it, then clampthe pieces together until the glue dries. Use a

damp cloth to wipe away any glue that oozes

out. Ifthe sill and sill nose surfaces aren't flush,sand the pieces flat with 80-grit sandpaper.

Lay out thesides for theshelf bracketholes, followingFigure A. Drillthe holes 3/4 in.from the edges

and spaced I in.apart. Use a

l/4-in. drill bit(or whatever bitsize is required

Materials listIA 1x4x 96" oak

I1l 1x2 x21+" oak

11) 1/4" x24" x 48" oak pl.ywood

I1l3/16" x2" x72" muttion

11) 11/16" x3-114" x 36" crown motding

[11314" x314" x36" cove molding

[ 1 2l she[f brackets

CASING2" x 30-9/1 6"(3/16" MULLTON)

BACK14-114" x32"(1/4" PLYWOOD)

314"x3-112"x12-314"

SILL NOSE314" x 1-1 /2" x 19-1/2"

SHELVES314" x3-112" x12-1t2"

for your brackets). You oniy need to drill theholes 3/8 in. deep (wrap tape 3/8 in. from theend of the drill bit to mark the depth),although it's OK to drill all the way throughthe sides since the other side will be hiddeninside the wall.

After drilling the holes, sand offthe pencillines remaining on the sides with 120-gritsandpaper.

Assemblethe cabinetUse wood glue and |-ll4-in. brad nails toassemble the cabinet frame (Photo l), follow-ing Figure A. Then drill two t/8-in. pilotholes in each corner and drive l-ll2-rn.screws to hold the corners together.

Run a thin bead of glue along the back ofthe entire frame, then set the back panel overit. Use the back panel to square the frame,then tack the panel into place with 5/8-in.brad nails.

{ Tack theI cabinet box

together quicklywith a bradnailer. Then addscrews for rock-solid corners.Glue the si[[ noseto the sill beforeassembling thecabinet.

OVERALL DIMENSIONS:21" x 3b"

314" x 3/4" COVE MOLDTNG(cuT To FtT)

sPAcE-sAVtNG wALL NIcHE 59

tl naa casino to4 tn" bo, uJingas few nails aspossible. Threenaits wi[1 hotd thecasing tight whilethe glue dries.

J cut the crown

J molding usinga simple home-made jig. The jigholds the crownupside down as you

make the cuts.

4:,';;"'::,"",,together withoutnails or clamps.Just hold each

return tightly inplace for about 60seconds. Set thecompleted crownaside for 20 min-utes, then attach itto the cabinet.

Lay the cabinet on its back and fasten the

casing (Photo 2). Three 5/8-in. nails will holdthe casing until the glue dries.

Precision cuts are required for the moldingcorners to fit tightly. Measure along the bottomedge of the molding when you make the cuts(the top measurements will vary depending on

the type of molding).

To get accurate cuts, build a simple jig tohold the molding in place during cuts. Screw ornail wood scraps together at a 90-degree angle.

Set the crown molding upside down in the jig so

the flat part on the back (the part that sits

against the cabinet after installation) is flush

against the vertical part of the jig. Fasten a stop

block to the horizontal part of the jig aiong the

top of the molding. Screw or hot-glue the jig to

the fence on your miter saw so it won't move.

Set the crown molding upside down in thejig and cut it (Photo 3).If the molding moves inthe jig even a tiny bit during the cut, recut the

molding or the corners won't fit tightlytogether. To cut the molding returns (sides),

use the jig to make the angle cuts, then cut the

90-degree angles.

Nailing the mitered corners together won't

work-the molding will crack or move as you

nail it. Instead, simply glue the corners (Photo

4). Cut the cove molding for the bottom of the

cabinet in the miter saw (without using the jig).

Glue the cove molding pieces together.

Glue and tack the assembled crown and

cove moldings to the cabinet with 5/8-in.brad nails.

Applya finish andstick the cabinet in the wallSand the entire cabinet with I 20-grit sandpaper

and wipe away the dust with a clean cloth. Then

brush on a finish. This cabinet has MinwaxGolden Oak stain followed by two coats ofMinwax Fast-Drying Pol1'urethane.

Then get the wall ready. Using a drywallsaw, cut a small inspection hole in the wallwhere the cabinet will go. Shine a light in the

opening and use a small mirror to look forobstructions in the wall. If you find electrical

cable or plumbing pipe, patch the hole and

move over a stud space.

Make an outline on the wall (between two

studs) l/4 in. larger than the cabinet back (so

it'll fit easily) and cut out the drywall with a

drywall saw. Be careful not to cut into the dry-

wall on the other side of the wall.

Finally, put the cabinet into the wall, level it,then nail through the stiles into the studs with2- I /2-in. finish nails.

60 PRoJEcrs $2s ro $so

rdinary doormats simplycan't handle serious muck,but you can clean out packed

dirt from even the deepest boot treadswith this boot scraper made from 2x4s.

Screw the base pieces (A and B)together upside down so that the screwheads are hidden.

Fasten the uprights (C) to the sides(D), then screw the side brushes onwith 2-in. screws.

Screw the bottom brushes to thebase with 2-in. screws.

Space the side pieces so that thebristles are roughly aal2 in. apart.

Add a piece of aluminum angle tothe front edge so you can scrape boots

before brushing them.

Use stiff-bristlebrushes-either "bi-level" brushes or deck

scrub brushes. You may

need to cut off part ofthe handle so the brushwill lie flat.

Figure ABoot scraper

Materials listThree B-ft. 2x4sFour stiff-bristte brushes IbiteveI or

reguLar deck scrub brush)

2-1/2" deckscrews

2" deck screws

10" of atuminum angle Iany sizel

TotaI cost: $40 to $50

F-T-

'-.--_]

=\ s=\

A

u

SPACE-SAVING WALL NICHE; l'/UD-BUSTtNG BOOT SCRApER 61

B y l:*'::r'ffi x#T :Ifr tr#'ffidifferent story-eventually it's going to break down. Large cracks

and crumbly chunks are alarming, but smaller fractures can be

trouble too. Fractures, and stains that won't wash out, may indi-cate spots where water is leaking in and working its way behind

the tiles. Sooner or later, that water will weaken the adhesive that's

holding the tile or cause rot in the walls. When that happens, the

only solution is to tear out the tile and start from scratch.

The good news is that if you catch it in time, you can quickly

and easily give tiled surfaces a new lease on life-and a fresh

look-by applying a new layer of grout. The following pages walk

you through the regrouting process from start to finish and offer

tools and tips to prevent mid-job mishaps. You don't need previ-

ous tile experience; regrouting is mostly grunt work.

The materials needed for an average-size shower cost about

$50. In some cases, you can finish the job in a few hours, but to be

safe, give yourself a weekend. If you start on Saturday morning,

you should be able to take a shower on Monday.

Choosing the right tools and groutBefore you begin digging into that old grout, make sure you have

all the tools and materials you'll need to finish the job. Thinkof this project in three parts: scraping and cleaning, regrouting

and cleanup.

When you're choosing grout-removal tools, stick with steel to

be safe. Many special grout scrapers equipped with carbide tips

work well and stay sharp for a long time, but if you slip, the carbide

can damage your tile or tub. Steel utility knife blades, on the other

52 PRoJEcrs $25 To $50

When the going gets toughThe basic arsenaLof simp[e scratch-out toots worksfor most projects, but there are times when you

might need a Iittle extra hetp. This pair of not-so-secret weapons can make short work of super-stubborn grout and cautk.

The first is a Grout Grabber {$17; groutgrabber:com).

Attached to your reciprocating saw, this carbide-tipped clean-out tooL works Like a steroid-fuetedetectric toothbrush. ControtLing the blade so itdoesn't scratch the tiLe takes some getting used to,

so start with tight pressure. 0nce the btade digs in,

it's not too diff icutt to keep it on the path.

The second weapon is 3M's CauLk Remover

{$7.50 at acehardware.coml. You'l.L find it indispen-

sabLe if the previous instatlers used silicone caulk

to seaL cracks around tubs and showers. Silicone's

stickiness can make removing it a reaL headache.

.*. The chemical requires a

few hours to soften stub-born cautk, but waiting is

better than the tediouschore of scratching offthe siLicone remnants

. try with your knife and pos-

sibl.v damaqing your titeCAULK

REMovER or tub.

'l Sti." along each edge of the caulk/wall joint with a sharpI utitity knife. Pull out the old caulk.

! Sgrrt.tt out at least 1/8 in. of grout from att the horizontalE and vertical lines with a utility knife or grout saw. Changeblades often,

Q Ct".n out atl of the dust and loose debris from the groutrJ joints using a stiff brush and vacuum.

hand, maydull quickly, but they're less likelyto scratch the tile. Buya knife with easy-to-change blades, and also buy plenty of spare

blades (a 1O0-blade pack only costs about $10). They're ideal forcleaning out narrow joints. A grout saw ($8; photo 2) with a

notched steel blade is also handy for stubborn chunks ofgrout.As for grout, buy a lO-lb. bag-you may have some left over,

but that's better than running out. Grout comes in two forms:unsanded and sanded. Your choice depends on the width of thegaps between the tiles. For joints up to l/8 in., choose theunsanded variety. For wider joints, choose sanded to avoid crack-ing. Whatever type you need, look for a "polymer-modified" mix.The extra ingredients help prevent future cracking and staining.It's almost impossible to match new grout to old, but don't worry.By scratching out the topmost layer from all the grout lines andadding new, you'll get a fresh, consistent color.

To apply the grout, buy a rubber-soled grout float (g9) and a

grout sponge ($3). In case the grout starts hardening too quickly,you'll also want to buy a plastic scouring pad. Last, buy a tube oftub-and-tile caulk ($3 to $6) rhat matches the grout color.

Slice out caulk and scratch out groutBefore you begin your attack, take a minute to protect your tubagainst scratches and debris that can clog your drain (photo l).

4thick

Mix the grout with water in a tatl bucket using a paint-mixing paddle. Mix stowly until the grout becomes apaste.

tip *n". you're shopping for grout, stick withbrands that offer color-matching cautks.Factory-matched cautk/grout combinations b[endaLmost perfectty.

REGROUT A SHoWER 63

f SpreaU grout at an angle to the grout tines with a rubber

J float. Press hard on the float to pack the joints futl of grout.

Thpe a layer ofplastic sheeting to your tub's top edge. Next, lay a

drop cloth on top of the plastic to protect the tub and cushion

your knees. Then remove the faucet hardware or protect it with

masking tape.

Getting rid ofthe old caulk and grout requires plenty ofelbow

grease, but it's not difficult work, especially if you take your time.

Begin by cutting out the old caulk (Photo l) and then move on to

the grout (Photo 2). When you're using a utility knife, switch

blades as soon as the edge stops digging and starts skating on the

grout (Photo 2). At times,you mayhave more success with the grout

saw Whatever tool you choose, the goal remains the same: to remove

about l/8 in. from the top (or more, if the grout comes out easily).

When you're done, remove dust and debris, which can weaken

the bond between the tile and the new grout (Photo 3).

Mix the grout and pack the jointsOnce the grout is mixed, the clock starts ticking toward the

moment when it will harden on the wall...or in the bucket. Pro

tilers can mix and use a l0-lb. bag of grout before it hardens, but

to play it safe, mix up a few cups at a time and work in sections. A

smaller batch will aliow you plenty of time to apply it and clean

the excess from one wall at a time. When you run out, rinse the

container before mixing a new batch. '

Before you make a batch from a bag, shake the bag to redistrib-

ute any pigment and Portland cement that might have settled out

in shipment. Aller it's been dry mixed, scoop out a few cups (one

cup equals about a haifpound) into a bucket. The instructions on

the bag indicate how much water to add per pound of mix. To

ensure a strong mix, start with about three-quarters of the specified

amount of water and gradually pour in just enough to make the

grout spreadable. Aim for a fairly stiff consistency, somewhet'e

between cake icing and peanut butter (Photo 4, inset). Don't worry

if the grout looks a little lumpy. After it's mixed, allow it to sit for

l0 minutes. During this time, the remaining dry specks will absorb

moisture. Give the grout one last stir (restirring also keeps the mix

from hardening in your bucket) and it's ready for application.

Focus on one wall at a time. Scoop out some grout with a

rubber float and press it out across the tiles at a 45-degree

angle (Photo 5). It's OK to be messy. The goal is to pack as much

grout into the joints as you can. Press hard and work the float in

several directions.

61 PRoJEcrs $25 ro g5o

] wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge as soon as

f the grout lines are firm, To keep the rinse water clean, dipthe sponge in the "dirty" bucket and wring it out. Then dip it inthe "ctean" bucket and wring it over the dirty bucket.

immediately after you fill the joints, rake off the excess grout

and put it back in your bucket. Hold the float on edge, and remove

the excess (Photo 6). Move the float across the joints diagonally to

prevent the edge from dipping into the joints and puiling out too

much grout. Work quickly before the grout starts to harden.

The time between scraping and sponging varies from job tojob. Depending on )rour mix, the humidity or the temperature,

the grout may take anl.where from five to 20 minutes to finn up.

Begin sponging as soon as the grout feels firm and no longer

sticks to your finger.

4 S.r.pe off excess grout by tipping the float on edge andlV pushing it diagonally across the tile. Work quickly.

:i

t:*""f,x

Scrape grout out of the inside corners and tub/tile joint sothat you can seat these joints with cautk later on.

Using a well-wrung tile sponge, wipe away the bulk of theunwanted grout with short, gentle, circular strokes (Photo 7).Turn the sponge so that you're using a clean edge with each pass.

Rinse and wring it out in the "dirty" bucket, then dip the spongein a "clean" bucket, and finally wring it out again in the "dirty"bucket. This two-bucket technique helps keep your sponge andrinse water clean so that you can remove grout more effectively.Wring out as much water as possible. Too much water can pullcement and pigment from your fresh grout lines.

In addition to wiping away the excess, the sponge works forfine-tuning the shape ofyour grout lines. To shave down any highspots and make the lines slightly convex, run the sponge across

the joint until the grout lines appear uniform. (lf you find a lowspot, use your finger to rub in a little extra grout.)

Finally, scrape out any globs ofgrout that may have gotten intothe joints you intend to caulk (Photo 8). I'his includes all cornersand the tub/tile joint. You could do this chore later, but it's a loteasier now, before the grout is rock hard.

The sponge-wiped walls may look clean at first, but as the sur-face moisture evaporates, the remaining grout particles will create

a light haze. Give the grout an hour or two to dry, then buffoff anyresidual haze with a soft towel (Photo 9).

Finish upwith neat caulkjointsLet the grout dry overnight before applying the caulk along thetub/tile joint and inside corners. For clean, precise caulk lines, runpainter's tape along the inside corner and at the tub/tile joint(Photo 10). Just remember to remove the tape as soon as you fin-ish smoothing. If you wait too long, the caulk will skin over orstick to the tape and you'll pull out the caulk when you try toremove the tape. Depending on the caulk, your bath should be

ready in 24 hours.

To reduce mold growth, seal grout lines forextra stain and water resistance. Give the grouta week or two to cure completely before seal-ing. Remember that sealers wear off overtime, so you'll need to reapply it everyyear or so. If you don't want to apply a

sealer, wiping your walls down with a

squeegee after each shower works almostas well.

{ O OOO,t painte/s tape to control your caulk tines. Apptyll/ the caulk. smooth the joint with your finger and imme-

diately remove the tape.

tip tn. biggest mistake you're tiketyto make iswaiting too Long beforesponging the excess grout off the tile.

A plastic scrub pad [$3) is a cheap insurance poticy. Thecoarse pad quickly and easiLy scours off hardened grout that

a sponge won't pick up, but it won't scratch the tiLe.Of course, buying one may guarantee that you won't

need it.0n the other hand, should you need one, youwon't be abLe to drive to the hardware store fast enough.

sr'j'-\

Q Auf the haze off the tite after the grout dries (severaly' hours). Use an old terry cloth towet.

REGROUI A SHOWER

Kill broadleaf weeds eA broadleaf weed is any undesirable lawn plant that isn't a grass. The ptants have actual leaveson stems, and contrary to the name, many have narrow rather than "broad" leaves. Dandelions, -'

plantain, ground ivy (creeping chartie) and ragweed are a few of the most common broadteaf weeds.

Early LateBefore broadleafweeds start growing in the spring, apply a prod-

uct called Hi-Yield Turf & Ornamental Weed & Grass Stopper

Containing Dimension, which is a preemergent herbicide. It kills

weeds before they sprout from seed and even kills some weeds

that have just started to grow Spread the product on the yard

between your first and third mowings in the spring. The company

says a single application will last a full 120-day season. This is

as close to a one-size-fits-all magic bullet as you'll find foreliminating annual weeds. No other product on the market willtarget both broadleaf and annual grassy weeds and stop them

from growing. It's available at lawn and garden centers (call first

to make sure). A 35-lb. bag that treats up to 15,000 sq. ft. costs

about $30.

Park your broadcast spreader over a tarp or on the driveway

(grains may leak out, and a heavy dose of herbicide on the

yard can kill even healthy grass). Fill the spreader (Photo l) and

distribute the herbicide evenly over your lawn.

Ifa few broadleaves pop up in the yard (you can

always count on a few dandelions), spot-kill them with a post-

emergence herbicide such as Ortho's Weed-B-Gon MAX ($9 for a

32-oz. concentrate that covers I 6,000 sq. ft. ) . Look on the label for"broadleaf killer" then check to see which weeds it targets. Some

broadleaf herbicides also kill crabgrass. There's no need to treat

the entire lawn, just the weedy areas, Don't let them spread and

create a bigger problem.

Premixed herbicides are OK if you have a small lawn and onlya few weeds. Otherwise, buy concentrates to mix yourself-they're a better value. Wait until the temperature is between 60

and 85 degrees F. (The herbicide vaporizes too soon in hightemps, and weeds don't grow fast enough in low temps to absorb

the chemicals.) Mix the herbicide with water (follow the direc-

tions) and pour it into a handheld pump sprayer ($8). Keep the

nozzle 6 to 12 in. from the weed and spray until the leaves are

slightlywet (Photo 2).

{ Spltts will kitl your grass. Park your spreader on a tarp orI driveway when fitting to avoid herbicide overdoses.

) Spot-kitt broadleaf weeds using a trigger-controtted pump

E sprayer until a mist forms on the leaves.

PR0JECTS $2s T0 $50

Too lateIf your lawn has lots of weeds scattered over large areas, don'twaste time spot-spraying individual weeds. Killing the weeds is as

quick and easy as spraying the weedy area with a hose.

Pour a concentrated postemergence herbicide (the same kindyou used for spot-spraying) into a dial sprayer ($ I 1 ) and set thedial on the lid to the manufacturer's recommended mixture (such

as 2 tablespoons per gallon of water). Attach the sprayer to a gar-den hose, turn on the water, and apply an even treatment to theweedy areas in the yard (Photo 3). Apply the herbicide when theweeds are activeiy growing in the late spring and early summer.You don't need to drench the weeds. A light misting wili kill mostweeds (ifit doesn't, give them a second dose in a week). Spray onlyon a calm day. Even a slight breeze can cafiy vapors that can killplants (anything that kills broadleaf weeds will also kill flowers ordecorative plants and could harm trees, so watch for overspray).

tip on,u,o,-.nthe weedyareas of theyard-not theentire lawn.You'll intro-duce Less her-bicide into theenviron ment.

-+ '4.

Howto restore bare spotsKitting Iarge patches ofweedy areas is going toleave bare spots in youryard that witl need to be

reptanied with grass. Thebest times to reseed arethe spring or faL[ when thetemperature is 60 to 70

degrees F. To start, waterthe bare spot untiL it's wetto a depth of at Least 3-112

in. Water at intervatsthroughout ihe day Iforabout 15 minutes every twoto three hours) rather thancontinuousty. With con-stant soaking, the waterjust runs off. Check thedepth of the water penetra-tion by digging into theground and Lifting up thesoil {Photo 11. You'Lt be abl.e

to see or feeI how deep thewater has seeped in.

Make a series of 3/B-in.-deep recesses in the ground,

1 in. apart, with a square-head shove[. Spread thegrass seed over the barespot. Then flip over a garden

rake and use the "knuck-

Les" to cover the seed withsoit IPhoto 2J. Lightty waterthe area in the morning and

evening untiI the grassstarts to grow in.

lf you want the seed togrow fast, ptant ScottsPatchMaster [$25 for a 15-

tb. bag), which is grassseed with fertiIizer andmutch to keep the seedfrom drying. After makingthe recesses in the ground,

spread PatchMaster seed over the bare spot Iphoto31. Water twice daiLy.

Buyer's Guide

Bayer: The product [ine includes herbicides. bayer.com

Fertilome: lncludes Hi-Yietd Turf & Ornamental Weed &Grass Stopper Containing Dimension. fertiLome.com

Scotts: lncludes Ortho and Roundup. The product Iine inctudesgrass seed, fertiLizers and herbicides. (888) 270-37j4.scotts.com

Q Cou"r large areas fast with a dial sprayer attached to arJ garden hose. Avoid spraying on a windy day so the herbi-cide won't drift onto (and kitl) nearby ptants.

GET A WEED-FREE YARD 69

lli ll,P-:iP.: "Ti rJ J. I?,: :,Y H:,: 9:" gthe toughest weeds to deal with. Thafs because the herbicides that kitt these weeds wi[[ also ki[[ yourgrass. Perennial grassy weeds like Daltis grass and quack grass have deep, expansive root systems thatmake it impossible to kill them by pulting them out. Quack grass is easy to identify-three or four days

after you've mowed your yard, quack grass wi[[ be noticeably taller than the surrounding grass.

EarlyTo spot-kill the weeds, apply a nonselective herbicide, such as

Roundup ($25 for a32-oz. bottle). Nonselective herbicides killplants and weeds alike, so it has to be applied to the individual

weeds by hand. Wearing cloth gloves over plastic gloves, wipe the

herbicide directly onto the weed (Photo 1). Don't worry about

covering every single blade. As long as you get most of them, the

herbicide will absorb into the weed. It'll take seven to ten days

before the weed starts to die. If it's not dead after two weeks, wipe

on a second treatment.

LateThe solution is the same later in the year. But the longer you wait,

,l nppty herbicide to perennial grasses without kitting theI surroundinq grass. Wear a ctoth gtove over a rubber glove.

Dip your gtoved hand in the herbicide and wipe it on.

the more work you'll have since these grasses continue to spread

all spring and summer. The herbicide is most effective early in the

season when grasses grow the fastest. As the weeds take root and

become sturdier, they may require more applications to fully kill.

Too lateOnce there are too many weeds to spot-treat by hand, it's time fordraconian measures. Kill everlthing and start over. Spray a non-selective herbicide on the weedy area (Photo 2).Wait two weeks.If

they're not dead, spray them again.

Once the weeds are dead, mow them as short as possible. After

spraying the herbicide, wait 14 days to plant new grass so the her-

bicide won't kill it.

) Spr^y herbicide to kitl patches of perennial grassy weeds.

E Mow the weeds after they're dead, then plant grass seed inthe area.

70 PROJEcTS $2s ro s5o

dirty'tlffilgtseep your dryer running efficiently and avoidpossible catastrophic lint fires by doingthese three things. First, clean the lint screen

and filter after each load. Second, periodically cleanthe inside of the dryer cabinet. And third, clean thedryer vent.

The LintEater ($31) from Gardus has a 4-in.-diameter auger brush attached to flexible rods

that extend up to 12 ft. to sweep away

lint buildup in the duct.A vacuum adapter (included)

attaches to the end of the duct(after it's disconnected from thedryer). Then you connect it to a

shop vacuum to suck up looselint while you feed the brushthrough the duct from the out-side vent opening. If the vent istoo long, take it apart and cleanit in sections.

Cleaner vents allow the dryerto operate more efficiently andprevent a fire hazard. TheLintEater is available at Lowe's,

Ace True Value and manvonline retailers.

Gardus, 18881 985-0208.linteater.com

TOVACUUM

GET A WEED-FREE YARD; AUICK FIX FOR DIRTY DRYER VENTS 71

Q euff off the stop tube. Pry up the cartridge retaining clip withJ a small screwdriver or awl. Remove the handte washer andthen twist the cartridge stem loose and putl it out with pliers.

L rc;t's stuck, use a special cartridge pulfer. Unscrew the hext? screw and hex nut until threads are visibl.e. Stide the putterover the cartridge stem, aligning the tool ears with the cartridgenotches, and twist to loosen.

Install the new, quieter fan and motor assembly inside theexisting fan housing.

Quiet a noisyfan eA fan kit from Broan and NuTone lets you cut bathrooffi-nnoise almost in half (meaning the fan is barely audible).Installing the new fan and

f, furn the hex screw by hand until it bottoms out. Snug upr/ the hex nut by hand and tug on the cartridge putter handle.If the cartridge won't pu11 out, hold the putter handte steadyand tighten the hex nut two full turns. putl the cartridge out ofthe faucet body, Buy an identical replacement cartridge, align itproperty and reassemble the parts.

motor only takes about 10

minutes, with no rewiringor duct work required. The

kit works on most Broan,NuTone and Nautilus fans-most bath fans are one ofthese brands. The Bath Fan

Upgrade Kit is simply a qui-eter replacement fan that fitsin the existing housing, so

there's no need to rip up the

ceiling, and the new grillegives your fan a new look.

The more powerfulmotor in this quieter fanmeans the fan will do a

better job of ventilating the

room. Buy the kit (No. 690,

$50) on Broan's Web site(broan.com) or at Lowe's.Everlthing you need is con-tained in the kit, includingthe wrench. If the gritte looks like this

If you have a grille other one, it's most likely a

than the two shown here, th. NuTone.

upgrade kit won't work on your fan.

Look at your fan's grille todetermine the fan type. Ifit looks like this one, it'sprobably a Broan or aNautilus.

REPAIR A DRIPPY SHOWER; QUIET A NOISY FAN

l-::viil

.ti.,i:::.

,"1

ceiling storaqeGarage

eady to organize yo:ur garage? You can start by tucking

medium and lightweight stuff onto shelves suspended

from the ceiling. The shelves are designed to fit into that

unused space above the garage doors (you need I 6 in. of clearance

to fit a shelf and standard l2-l12 in. high plastic bins). However,

you can adjust the shelf height and put them an1'r,vhere. The only

limitation is weight. The 4 x 6-ft. shelf is designed to hold about

160 lbs., a load that typical ceiling framing can safely support. It's

best to save the shelf for "deep storage," using labeled bins with

lids, because you'll need a stepladder to reach them.

First, find which way the joists run in your garage ceiling, then

plan to hang one shelf support from three adjacent joists (Photo

2). The joists in this garage are24in. apart; ifyours are spaced at

16 in., skip one intermediate joist. This project is built to hold

,1 PROJEcTS $2s ro $so

plastic bins, but ifyou put loose stuffup there, add

lx4 sides to keep things from falling off.

Assemble the 2x4s as shown (Figure A), using 5-in. corner

braces ($2 each) and l/4-in. x 1-in. hex head lag screws (drill pilotholes first).

Now attach the corner braces on both ends of a shelf support

to the center of a joist/truss by drilling pilot holes and using

l/4-in. x 2-in. hex head lag screws (Photo 2). The only challenge is

finding the center of joists through a drywall ceiling (if your

ceiling is finished) to attach the shelf supports. Tap a small nail

through the drywali until you locate both edges of the joist. Meas-

ure to find the center of the adjacent joists, and measure to keep

the three supports in alignment with one another. Finish the shelf

unit by attaching a 3/8-in. x 4-ft. x 6-ft. plywood floor (Photo 3).

{ Measure from the ceiting to the top ofI the raised garage door. Subtract 1 in. to

determine the height of the side 2x4s.

Q Cut 3/8-in. ptywood for the shetf base and attach it to the 2x4 shelfi, supports with 1-in. wood screws.

2 Build three identical shelf supports, atign the side supports, and predrill andlag-screw each into the center of the ceiling trusses/joists.

One shelfholds allthis!

L:','"€

' {EOFigure A

.'6

\5"

CORNERBRACE

- ^#=-

114" x 1"HEX HEADLAG SCREW

Don't overload bins with heavy stuff. Limit thetotat weight to about 160 lbs.

,l

.u"I'

.tr"'1"'['.]"

.["['

Each shetf holds eightcontainers 16 in. wide x24 in. long x 72-7/2 in. high.

JNili.l_ +-

GARAGE CEILING STORAGE 75

ffi#fi;#,:,fi]W

.r flu Versatile vise

DRILLINGGUIDE

Dremel developed its Multi-Vise(No. 2500-01) for people who

need a versatile vise that's easy

to set up and take down. This

$30 gem is a must-have for any

hobbyist. it clamps onto any

surface (like a kitchen table) up

to 2-112 in. thick. Because thejaws are cushioned, you can

tighten delicate items withoutmarring their surface.

The clamp rotates 360

degrees and tilts 50 degrees, so

you're sure to find a comfort-able working angle. The vise is

available online and at home

centers and hardware stores(visit the company's Web site fora store locator).

Dremel, (8001 437-3535.

dreme[.com

ates strong joints fast with no glue

or mess. Just clamp the jig to the

parts you're joining, drill a couple

ofholes, then screw the parts together. You get tight and strong joints every time. It works

great for joining wood of nearly any size, tlpe or dimension. Kreg offers a wide variety ofaccessories as well as more expensive rigs, but the Model R3 ($45) is all a home wood-

worker needs to build professional-grade furniture or cabinets.

Kreg TooI Company, 18001 447-8538. kregtoot.com

$*i .t f.,r'E''i * f: ri,i *f i*!

r.::{ }*{i31lidff gT\f C} ti

.l'lr,$ : { ',i iii.;:"T{ i"

Don't be fooled by this diminutive screw-

driver. It's not a toy. Skil's iXO2 versatile

screwdriver is perfect for around-the-house projects and quick fixes. It's light-weight (11.2 ozs.) and fits in the palm of

vour hand. The

lithium-ion battery holds a charge for up to l8months, so it's always ready when you need it.

The iXO2 has a light on top to illuminatethe drilling area, an LED charge indicator so

you know when it's time to recharge, and a

magnetized hex head to hold bits (a22-piece

bit set is included). The iXO2 is available at

home centers for $49.

Skit, 1877f 754-5999. skittools.com

: ::: :,',":.::: : : ::::.7and useful as the square, but C.H. Hanson found a

way. The Slide Square does everything a traditionalsquare does-lets you draw straight lines quickly and

finds roof cuts, hips and valleys up to 90 degrees-

and it also has calipers for easy measuring and a

built-in jig for marking anchor bolt holes on sillplates (for new construction). Even better, it's com-

pact enough to fit in your hip pocket. Buy it on the

company's Web site ($9) or amazon.com ($10).

C.H. Hanson, 18001 827-3398. chhanson.com

R $50

The Stide Square works like a traditional square

to quickly mark 9O-degree angles. A built-inscale lets you mark angled cuts.

SPEcIAL SECTI0N: N4UST-HAVE T00LS UNDE

Ni:Y::T,:: T: :TTT:I:Y;Tff ::, P["'i:ftHii::ffii:ff1Tff:.HH:::'i,Tillli#i:' M, rwhen cutting or stripping wire, and the wire cutting/stripping \ )t

The Rapid Shark ($25) is an exception. It's a wire cutter, srripper,crimper (spring loaded for easy one-hand operation) and utility _*fi;:.?

jaws lock closed when you're blade-cutting so they're not inthe way. The handle stores four blades (included) so youalways have sharp blades onboard. Changing blades is

easy too-simply press the red button near the biade,then pull out the old one and slip in a new one-nothing to unscrew or take apart.

Buy it at Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Sears or amazon.com.Rapid Tools, [905] 336-0553. rapidtools.net

Three tools in oneThe Japanese cat's paw has

three intended uses: It pullsnails, works as a pry bar (the

thin blade will get under just aboutanything) and acts like a small hammer towhack things.

Use it for prying open cans, as a

rough-and-ready scraper, and for pullingsmall nails that would slide out of thehammer claw.

Japanese cat's paws and other smallcat's bars start at $ l0 at home centers.

ll1 ?lr;::: : :"n:::::.:.:,.R". gun hand e r.rhours. Instead, get a battery-powered caulk gun. Professional ones have been around foryears, but they cost big bucks. Now there's an affordable homeowner version.

with Black & Decker's new Powered caulk Gun, which runs on four "AA'batteries,all you have to do is squeeze the trigger once fora smooth, uniform, continuous bead of caulk. No moregaps or pileups between trigger pulls. Two speedslet you control the flow rate. Best of all, when yourelease the trigger, the plunger backs off slightly so thecaulk doesn't keep squirting out of the tube and make amess. The barrel unscrews for loading and changingcaulk cartridges.

It's not worth spending the $32 for the tool if youonly have one or two windows to caulk, but if you'regoing to tackle the whole house, the Powered CaulkGun will make your job a lot easier. It's available atLowe's, amazon.com and on the company's Web site.

Black & Decker, [800] 54/,-6986. blackanddecker.com

Dual-use wire stripper

sheathing and a pair "f

*i* r;;;;#r;t; Z,iinsulation off individual wires. Those days are

-.,:".gone. New wire strippers do both tasks admirably. J,Wire strippers that strip the sheathing and the 7 ,.

insulation make wiring faster, easier and more . !pleasant.

These strippers start at $ 15 at home centers.

SPECIAL SECTl0N: MUST-HAVE T00LS UNDER $50 77

* :..-Y3

i,:,

e+F

Best rotlercover cleanereverIfyou do a lot of roll-on paintingand use premium roller covers that

you don't want to throw away, get a

Roller Washer ($25). You'll be glad

you did.

They're easy to use and they do

get the rollers incredibly clean-atask that takes a long time by hand,

and even then you rarely get a trulyclean nap. fust hook up the hose to a

faucet, slide the roller cover into the

tube, and watch the water flushout the paint in minutes. Call(585) 335-91 19 or send an e-mail to

rollerwasher@dishmail.net to findout where to get one in your area.

PaintMisert 10 uses, like opening the lid and cleaning the

rim, make this $6 tool a real keeper. Find it at Home Depot and paint

and hardware stores (retailers listed on the company's Web site).

Hyde, 18001 87 2-1933. hydetools.com

N

Stripped screw removerScrews with stripped heads can drive you nuts when

yelling at them won'tsolve the problem, reach

for the Grabit screw

extractor. It'll remove

everlthing from drywall

screws to deck screws.

Simply drill the bur-nishing end into thescrew head to create an

even crater, then flip the srnrppei'---bit over and back out "iAW -BUR$HNG-

the fastener with theremover end. With extractor kits starting at only $8, it'll save you a

Find it at Ace, Sears and amazon.com.

Atden, 18001 832-5336. atdn.com

lot ofheadaches.

you try to get them out. Since

Big-grip spring clampsSpring clamps are great for some jobs, but you used to need AD.,usrABLE

several sizes to handle a variety of jobs. No more. The next l,ir,'l* Igeneration of spring clamps has arrived with B.rr.yt"V;;;;- '\$il\

Clippix (the 4-in. is shown here). The adjustable jaws slide open 'if 'up to 4 in. wide, and they're strong enough to apply firm pres- ttsure at any width (a smaller size is also available). Pivoting -apads on the jaws grip the work without marring the sur-

face, and the ergonomic handles give you a firm, comfort-

able grip. The clamps are available for $5 to $7 at

home centers and woodworking stores.

Bessey Toots, 18001 828-1004. besseytoots.com

78 SPECIAL SECTION; N4UsT-HAVE T00LS UNDER $50

80

82

87

90

93

94

97

Make over a room with trim

Panel a wa[[ in one weekend

Transform a room withpainted rectangtes

Super-simple box shetves

Steppingstone path

Paint your kitchen cabinets

Under-bed rott-out

SPECIAL SECT]ON:

Energy-saving projects

98 9 ways to save etectricity

103 Save $150 with CFLs

1O4 Cover leaky windows

79

Makeovera room with

trlmhis is an easy-to-install urethane

molding that you can cut with a

handsaw and miter box (no power miter

saw necessary) and then glue and nail to the

walls. The molding is a durable product with

the crisp details and shapes you'd expect from

solid wood, but it's a lot easier to work with.

For an average-size bedroom, figure on spend-

ing about $75 for chair railing. Ifyou plan to

trim the windows and doors with moldings

similar to those shown, add $80 per unit.

Urethane moldings are bothlightweight and easy to apply, mak-

ing them a great alternative to wood

molding. The manufacturer recom-

mends cutting the molding about

1/4 in. overlong for long runs (12 to

16 ft.) to help make up for seasonal

wall expansion. This product willcompress slightly and snap intoplace. Shorter lengths, up to 8 ft.,should be cut about l/8 in. overlong

and anything less than 4 ft. should

be cut to fit. The company also recommends butting crosscut

ends together when splicing long lengths instead of bevel-cutting

moldings at mid-wall joints. The molding is applied just like

wood molding except that it cuts and nails easier.

Set the rnolding into your miter box (screw the miter box

down to your sawhorse or work table) and cut it on your mark

with slow, steady strokes as you hold the molding firmly with your

other hand. Support long ends with additionai sawhorses. Don't

bother coping joints in corners; just lay the molding on its back

side and cut at 45 degrees for inside and outside corners. Nails

alone won't do-you must use the polyurethane construction

adhesive to bond the trim to the wall surface to make up for its

low density.

Fili nail holes with spackling compound and then wipe the

surface clean with a damp rag (Photo a). This process will take

80 PRoJEcrs $bo ro $1oo

two applications. Sand urethane molding as little as

possible because unlike wood, the factory finish on the

urethane molding is thin and can sand off Because you'll

be painting the moiding, you can touch up joints with acrylic

caulk and wipe the excess away with a damp rag. You can save

yourseif a lot of time by prepainting the molding and then touch-

ing it up after you've cut and installed it.

tip t" widen your miier box as shown in Photo 1 onp. 81, use a hammer to tap the sides f ree of theoriginaL base. DrilL piLot hotes and screw thesides to the new base. With the wider base, you'tlbe abLe to crosscut and bevel-cut the moldings.However, the other miter operations won't bepossibLe, since the precut sLots wi[[ no [ongerline up. This won't be a prob[em for cutting themotdings shown here.

'{f:

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a.'91 .

rantn on

il

ere's a simple method for creating an

elegant paneled wall without theexpense of solid lumber or the skill of

a master carpenter. This paneled wall is finished

by nailing strips of inexpensive MDF (medium-

density fiberboard) directly over the drywall.

The square-edged strips are easy to join, and the

smooth MDF surface makes a perfect surface

for a flawless paint job.

With a little perseverance, you can nail up

the strips on Saturday, leaving Sunday to sand

and paint. You ll need a basic set ofhand tools, a

circular saw a power miter saw a sander and a

finish nailer to complete the job. See p. 84 forhow to rip the MDF strips with a circular saw

(Photo 2), but ifyou own (or have access to) a

82 PRoJECTS $bo ro $1 oo

'

Creating a new look for one wall or a whote room is as easy as nailingboards over the drywa[[. Lay out an attractive grid pattern and go to work.You'[[ be done in a weekend.

table saw, use it instead. Making accurate squarecuts on the end of the strips is easywith a powermiter saw, but you can use a circular saw with a

guide. Ifyou don't have a finish nailer, rent onefor a day ($45 per day with a compressor).There's a lot of nailing to do and it will speed upthe job considerably.

Tape a mock-up to the wallStart by prying off the baseboard and the win-dow and door trim. Slip a wide, stiffputtyknifebehind the pry bar to spread out the pressure

and prevent damage to the drywall. With themoldings out of the way, tape up 4-in.-widestrips of masking paper to simulate the look ofthe MDF strips (Photo 1). If you can't find4-in.-wide masking paper at the home center orpaint store, cut a wider roll to 4 in. with a mitersaw Start by placing strips at the top, bottomand sides. Then run vertical strips along thewindows and doors. Line up horizontal stripsabove doors and windows. Add a horizontalstrip under windows too. Now divide theremaining spaces to create an attractive grid.When you're happy with the arrangement,make a dimensioned sketch to guide you later.Then count the number of 8-ft.-long stripsyou'll need to complete the project. You'll get

twelve 3-7l8-in.-wide by 8-ft.-long strips fromevery 4 x 8-ft. sheet of MDF.

If you're going to change the wall color,patch imperfections in the wall with spacklingcompound. Even if you're not changing thecolor, sand and paint before applying the MDFstrips. You'll have to do some touch-up paintinglater, but at least the bulk of the work will be

done. This is especially important if you'regoing to paint the MDF strips a different colorthan the wall.

Cut MDF into stripsThe 4 x 8-ft. sheets of ll2-tn. MDF you'll need

for this project are available at lumberyards andhome centers. If you don't have a way to haullarge sheets, ask a store employee to cut thesheets into 16-in.-wide strips that you can tie toyour car top. Also pick up a few tubes of con-struction adhesive to attach the strips that don'talign with studs (Photo 7).

Cut the MDF into 3-7l8-in.-wide strips. Ifyou don't have a table saw to cut the strips,assemble a cutting guide (Photo 2). Start bycutting a 6-in.-wide strip from the edge of a

sheet of MDF. Cut another strip 4 in. wide touse as a stop. Position the stop and screw it tothe bottom of the guide so that you can cut3-718-in.-wide strips by running the edge of the

What'sMDF andwhy shouldI use it?MDF (medium-densityfiberboardl is a pressedwood product that offersseveraI advantages overso[id wood for a projectLike this. First, it's inex-pensive [$20 for a 4 x 8-ft.sheetl compared withsotid wood, and thesmooth surface ,oont €great painted. UnLike strips of [umber,which can be bent or twisted, strips rippedf rom M DF are perfectty straight, sim ptifying instaL-Lation. And the materiaL is f texibLe enough to con-form to sLightLywavywalLs. Fina[Ly, the 1/2-in.-thickstrips [ook nice. (lt's hard to find 112-in. Lumber.]

MDF isn't perfect, though. lt's heavy and the 4 x8-ft. sheets are hard to handle without heLp. Somehome centers wiLL cut it into smaLLer pieces for you.A[so, the dust f rom cutting and sanding is so f inethat it'Lt drift and settle on everything in sight untessyou take speciaI precautions. Collect the dust with a

vacuum or dust collection system if possibte. Other-wise, try to do most of your cutting outdoors.

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{ f.p. up strips of masking paper to tay out the wa[ pattern.I Adjust the arrangement until you like the results. Take a photo as

a reminder of the pattern.

n Crt straight, uniform strips of MDF fast using a cutting guide

L with a stop on the underside. If your saw has a vacuum port. use

it! Cutting MDF is dusty.

81 PROJECTS sso ro sloo

] s.no rne cur eoges o, .nu ,.r',pr\'FJ fast by ctamping several strips together.

saw base against the guide. With this setup, youwon't have to measure for each strip. Just repo-sition the guide and clamp it to the MDF sheet

after each cut.

Note: Sawdust from MDF is very fine andwill cover everything in sight ifyou're not care-

ful. Cut outdoors if possible. Otherwise, put anexhaust fan in the window and use a shop vac-uum to collect dust from power tools. Makesure to wear a dust mask and safety glasses

when cutting.

After ripping the strips, sand the edges toremove saw marks. Clamp a bunch of the stripstogether and sand all of the edges at once tospeed up the job and avoid rounding over thecorners (Photo 3). Use a random orbital sander

tip ,.. a /r-in.-wide foammini rotterIPhoto 4] toappty theprimer andpaint. You'[[get a smoothfinish, free ofbrush marks.

and 80-grit paper.

After sanding,leave the clamps

in place while you

roll on a coat ofquick-drying,stain-blockingprimer such as

KILZ or BIN.Afterthe primer dries,

sand lightly andapply one coat of paint. Prepainting the edges

will save you a lot of time on the final paint job.

Nailthe strips to the wallStart by locating the studs. Look for drywallscrews or baseboard nail holes as a clue to studlocations. Or use an electronic stud finder. Stickpieces of masking tape to the floor to mark thelocations. Cut MDF rails (horizontal strips) tofit along the floor and ceiling and nail them tothe studs with 2-in. brads (Photo 5). Next cutstiles (vertical strips) to fit between the rails atthe corners and along the sides ofwindows anddoors and nail them to the wall (Photos 6 and7). Position the stiles 1/4 in. from the insideedge of door and window jambs to leave l/4 in.of the jamb exposed.

Determine the positions of the remainingstiles by dividing the space evenly according toyour original layout. Hook your tape measureon the left side of the farthest left stile andmeasure to the ieft side of the farthest rightstile. Divide this measurement by the numberof spaces you want. The result is the distancefrom the left edge ofany one stile to the left edge

of the next stile. Mark the locations on the bot-tom and top rails. Then cut the remaining stiles

to length. Appiy two beads of constructionadhesive to the back of the strips before tackingthem to the wall with 2-in. brads (Photo 7).

4;:1T,';:o.on.,to avoid fussybrushwork later.Ro[[ on a coat ofprimer, let it dryand sand lightty.Then roll on a coatof paint.

f, n.it the base and ceiling rails to studs. splice raits over studs. Join the endsr/with 3O-degree bevel cuts.

6i;:1*m'.them with a utilityknife rather than a

pencil to createfine, precise cuttingmarks.

PANEL A WALL IN ONE WEEKEND 85

With the top and bottom rails and all the

stiles in place, it's time to fill in the rest of the

rails. Start by stretching a mason's line tightlyacross the top of the windows or doors, making

sure to leave a ll4-in. reveal on the jamb. Make

a pencil mark where the string intersects each

stile (Photo 8), Then cut rails to fit between the

stiles, align them with the marks and nail them

to the wall. If you have a window, align another

set of rails with the bottom of the windowThen divide the remaining space and mark the

rail locations on the stiles (Photo 9), Complete the

paneled wall by cutting rails to fit between the

stiles at each mark and nailing them to the wali.

Filland sand fora perfectpaint jobFill the nail holes and other imperfections withspackling compound. Let it dry and sand itsmooth. Nail holes may require two coats ofspackling. Where they intersect, sand the MDFstrips flush with an orbital sander (Photo 10).

Caulk the cracks where the MDF meets the side

walls and ceiling. When you're done filling,sanding and caulking, roll or brush a coat ofstain-blocking primer onto the face of the MDF

strips. Finish the job by painting the face of the

MDF strips and touching up the wall paint.

] Fasten the stites without worrying about stud tocations. Apply adhesive tof the stites and tack them to the drywalt with brads. The brads hotd them in

place until the adhesive dries.

Mark the position of the rails above and below the windows. Use a mason's

line to atign the marks with the windows.

fl otuiu. the remaining space and

7 marf the location of-the rails on

the stiles. Cut the rails and nail themto the studs.

10 ::'il :l"T:'.', tl'J lil: " "Sand any uneven areas for a smooth,flush surface.

PRoJECTS $50 T0 $100

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or lcss th;rn $100, vou cr.rn transform il roor)t iu.tsir"rgle u.eeker-rd. Ali it takcs is some paint, c.lrrze ancl

ntasking tapc.'I'he tecl-rniqucs Ibr n-rasking and glazing are eiisv to learn and

clon't recluire arnv spccial skills. Horvever, r.oLr ivill r-reed a goocl bitof pirticnce since thc finish entlils niultiple lar.ers of glazc ancl

careful applications of mirsliins tirpe . You onlv ncecl to p.r jp1 nn.

rvall to rchier,e;r drarratic eifect. You could cornplete a nall in a

day, but it's better to set asrcle a r,eckencl to allol,plentv ofdrvingtir.nc tretrvccn coats oiglazc.

'l'he flrst step is io paint the l'.rll u'ith tl-re base coart color. Forthis voLr'll need tvprcal painting supplics llie a steplaclder, dropi],'11r. t.,ri",U,r.,'lr .rn.l rollcr.

PANEL. A \,vALL lN 0NE v/EEKENDiTRANSFcRN4 A ROOt'/ w Tl-t pA NTED RECTANGLES 87

Random rectanglesFour layers of glazed boxes overlap to create this contemporary

design. Golden hues are used here, but you could produce the

same effect using different colors. In general, use a darker or more

opaque color for the first layer ofboxes, and lighten the color and

increase the transparency for each of the three succeeding layers.

Where layers overlap, new shades and colors will appear. That's

why it's essential to create a sample board before you start.

Latex paint thinned with glaze was used for the first layer, and

thinned semi-opaque metallic finishes were used for the next two

Iayers. Before you commit to applying the finish to the wall,

choose your colors and mix the glazes. Then make a sample board

by painting a piece of drywall, hardboard or MDF (medium-den-

sity fiberboard) and applying the glaze. Overlap sections of glaze

on the board to see the effect. Of course, if you like the way this

wall looks, just copy the recipe shown in the box above. When

you re happy with the choice of colors, you can start on the wall.

Choosing the size and position of the boxes may seem daunt-

ing, but don't worry. The wall will look better with each layer you

apply. Buy a watercolor pencil at an art supply store in a color that

matches your color scheme and use it to mark the walls. The

88 PRoJEcrs $so To $r oo

Recipe forrectanglesBase coat cotor: Benjamin Moore

Semoti na 2155-40, eg gshel.t.

First set of rectangles: One partBenjamin Moore Dash of Curry2159-10 thinned with 3 parts Ben-jamin Moore Latex Gtaze Extender

CLear 408.

Sesond set of rectangles: 0ne part

Modern Masters Tequita Gol.d

M E661 thinned with two partsGlaze Extender.

Third set of rectangtes: One part

Modern Masters Gotd Rush ME658

thinned with two parts GtazeExtender.

Fourth layer of rectangtes: One

part Modern Masters Ftash Copper

ME656 thinned with one partGlaze Extender.

watercolor lines will disappear as you apply the glaze to the boxes.

Square and rectangular boxes that ranged in size from a 34 x 14-in.

rectangle to a 48-in. square were used here. Photos I - 3 show the

process. Draw the fourth layer of boxes to enclose any base coat

color that hasn't been covered by previous layers.

Tape off a series of boxes. Then, using the following steps,

you ll spread a thin layer of glaze within the taped-off boxes to

create a cloudy effect. Wet the sponges and wring them out before

starting. Then use one sponge to spread a few 6-in.Jong swaths ofglaze on a small section of a box. "Pounce" the flat side of a second

dampened sponge onto the glaze to spread it out. Rinse the

pouncing sponge in clean water occasionally to get rid ofbuilt-upglaze. Work quickly across the box so that you never have to over-

lap onto an area of glaze thatt already dry. Complete all the boxes

with the first glaze color and let the glaze dry at least a couple ofhours before starting on the next layer.

Draw another set ofboxes on the wall that overlaps the first set

and repeat the glazing process. Repeat these steps for the thirdlayer. Complete the wall by covering any unglazed base coat withthe fourth layer of glazed rectangles,

GLAZEDRECTANGLE

APPLICATION TSPONGE \

2 Spread random 6-in. swaths of glaze with the end of asponge. Pounce with the second sponge to spread the gtaze.

CornertechniqueFinishing right up to an insidecorner wiih a sponge is diff icuLt.

You'[t get uneven coverage or a

buiLdup of gtaze that Looks bad. Abetter technique is to f inish withina few inches of the corner withthe sponge. Then, while the finishis still wet, use a dry brush in a

pouncing motion to work thegLaze into the corner.

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{ Nart rectangles on the wall using a level and a watercolorI pencil. Then frame the rectangtes with masking tape.

Q nUa a second. third and fourth layer of overlapping boxes, using a lighter-coloredJ glaze for each layer. Let the glaze dry at least two hours between layers.

TRANSFORM A ROOM WITH PAINTED RECTANGLES 89

boxot only do these storage boxes look nice, but they're easy to build-just fasten together four sides and put on the back. This is one ofthose

rare woodworking projects that combines high style, low cost and

super-simple construction.

Built from standard oak or birch plywood, these 12 x l2-in' boxes will cost

about $50 for a dozen, so you can build a bunch for less than $100. Ifyou use

standard plywood, you'll have to patch voids in the edges with wood filler or

cover the edges with edge banding. To avoid that extra work, you can use Baltic

birch plywood, which has better-looking, void-free edges. Baltic birch costs

about $85 for a 3/4-in. x 60-in. x 60-in. sheet, which will give you five boxes.

If your home center doesn't stock Baltic birch, look for it at a hardwood

specialty store (check under "Hardwood Suppliers" in the yellow pages to find

a source). Use standard 1/4-in. plywood for the backs even if you use Baltic

birch for the sides.

Time and toolsYou can build a dozen or more boxes in a few hours. Spend Saturday assembling

the boxes and applying the finish, then hang them or fasten them together on

Sunday. To complete the project, you'll need a table saw to rip the plywood

sheets and a circular saw to crosscut the top, back and sides. A brad nailer willmake nailing the boxes together a lot easier, but you could also use a hammer.

90 PRoJEcrs sbo ro sloo

Elegant or practicalThe boxes work equatly welL in a formaIsetting and a utiLitarian room, Like the

laundry or garage. They offer an un[im-

ited number of uses and arrangements.

qfr

f;ilfr

Figure AModular boxes

SIDES314" x11-114" x12"

BACK23-1/2" x 11-112"

/4" PLYWOOD)

TOPAND BOTTOM

1/4" REVEAL

BACK11-112" x 11-1/2"(1/4" PLYWOOD)

TOPAND BOTTOM

SIDES3/4" x 11-1/4" x

3/4"x11-1/4"x10-112"

{ Cut tt'. box parts straight and square with a homemadeI crosscut guide. Stack two layers of ptywood strips to cut

perfectly matching parts fast.

If you want to paint the boxes, first prime them with a latexprimer. Foam rollers work great for applying smooth coats ofprimer and paint. Brush on the primer in the corners, then rollthe rest. Let the primer dry, lightly sand the boxes with 120-gritsandpaper, then apply the paint.

12',

Cut the pieces to size

Materials list3/4" x 48" x 96" pLywood, one sheet per eight

12" x 12" boxes or five 12" x24" boxes

1/4" x48" x 96" pLywood, one sheet

Get started by ripping the 3/4-in. plywood sheets into I l-1/4-in.-wide strips on a table saw Cut out any dents and dings along theedges. Itt important that these pieces be exactly the same width sothe boxes will be aligned when they're stacked together. Also ripthe 1/4-in. plywood sheet into 11-l/2-in.-wide strips.

Crosscut the box tops, bottoms, sides and back panels tolength following Figure A, above. Make the crosscuts with a circu-lar saw and a guide (Photo I ).

Assemble the boxesPlacing adjacent sides in a carpenter's square ensures crisp90-degree angles when you fasten the corners together. Set thesquare over wood blocks and clamp it to your work surface, Setone side and the top or bottom in the square, apply wood gluealong the edge, and nail the corner together with l-1/2-in. bradnails (Photo 2).

Fasten the remaining corners the same way. Leave the box inthe carpenter's square to keep the corners square, then add theback panel (Photo 3). The back panels are I I 2 in.smaller than theoverall box size to leave a ll4-in, reveal along each edge. Thismakes the edges less conspicuous when the boxes are installed.

Apply a finishOnce your boxes are fully assembled, it's time to apply a finish.Sand the boxes with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth out any roughspots, then wipe away the dust with a clean cloth.

sUPER-srMpLE Box SHELVES 91

t) auita perfectty square boxes by assembling them against a

4 carpenter's square. Drive three nails per corner to holdthem together until the glue dries.

These stained shelves have two coats of stain-MinwaxGolden Oak followed by Minwax Ebony-and two coats of a

water-based polyurethane.

Hang the boxesOnce the finish is dry, you can screw the boxes together or hang

them on a wall. Be sure to hang the boxes with the side pieces

overlapping the top and bottom, as shown in Figure A. This keeps

the corner nails horizontal and makes the box stronger. Still, the

boxes are not designed to hold a lot ofweight. Countersinking the

screw head and filling the hole with a 3/8-in. screw hole buttonhides the fastener. Screw hole buttons are available at home centers.

To fasten boxes together, first clamp them so they're perfectly

flush. Then drill a 3/8-in.-diameter, 3/16-in.-deep countersink

92 PRoJEcrs $bo ro $r oo

! Center the back panel over the box, leaving a small gap

J atong each side. Gtue and nait the panet into ptace. The

back panel keeps the box square.

L orive two screws near the front.It ttide screw heads with wooden"buttons" after screwing boxes together.

hole with a brad point drill bit ($3). The brad point won't tear orchip the veneer. Then drill 1/8-in. pilot holes in the countersink

holes using a standard bit.Drive a 1-in. wood screw into the pilot hole, countersinking

the head. Dab paint or stain on the screw hole button and plug the

hole (Photo 4).

To hang a box where there's a stud, drill two l/8-in. pilot holes.

Then spray-paint the heads of 2-U2-in. screws and drive them

into the stud at the pilot holes (there's no alternative to leaving the

heads exposed). If there's not a stud available, use self-drillinganchors, such as EZ Ancors. Drill pilot holes through the box intothe wall, remove the box and drive the anchors into the wall at the

marks. Then fasten the box to the wall using the screws included

with the anchors.

f nrrange the boxes any way you tike. Spaces between boxes

J can form compartments too.

I Steppinqstonepath

teppingstone pathsoffer many of theadvantages of con-

crete sidewalks and paverstone but without all thework, expense and mess. You

can save wear and tear onyour lawn in heavily usedroutes or take a trip to the gar-

den without getting your feet

wet from the morning dewSince you only removeenough sod to place thestones, you can lay this pathwithout tearing up your lawn.And if you pile the dirt andsod on a tarp as you work,cleanup can be easy too.

Almost any type of flatstones will work as long as

they're about 2 in. thick.This project uses limestonesteppingstones from a pile atthe local landscape supplycenter for about $2 each,You'll also need a 60-lb. bag

of playground sand for every

l0 stones.

{ Space the steppingstones along theI path to match your stride, Using the

stones as patterns, cut through the sodaround each stone with a drywal[ saw ora bread knife.

) Uor" the stone to the side and digE out the sod with a trowel. Dig thehole 1 in. deeper than the thickness ofthe stone to atlow for the sand base.

Q noughly levet a 1-in. layer of sandJ in the hole. Set the stone on thesand and wiggte it until it's flush withthe surrounding sod. Add or remove sandas necessary.

supER-stN4pLE B0X SHELVES; srEpptNGSToNE pATH 93

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Paint yqur

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ainting cabinets with enamel is more difficult than

painting a room, but in the scheme of do-it-yourselfprojects, it's still pretty easy. If you go at it methodically

and take your time, you can do a great job, even ifyou've never

painted a fine enamel finish before. The enamel will revive your

kitchen without the major expense of remodeling-and without

the hassle of closing down the kitchen. Use these painting tech-

niques on the cabinet faces, cabinet doors and cabinet drawers.

Painting optionsThere are three basic approaches you can take to paintyour cabinets:

1. Paint over the old finish. To do this, clean the cabinets

thoroughly with TSP substitute or laundry detergent, and sand

them with 100-grit sandpaper-every inch-to roughen up the

surface. Then vacuum and use a tack cloth (Photo 4) to remove

the dust. Apply a shellac-based primer (BIN is a common brand;

$24 per gal.). Apply a coat of enamel undercoater ($20 per gal.).

Sand the cabinets and remove the dust, then apply a finish coat ofenamel ($24 per gal.)

This method is fast (two to three days) and easy, but unfortu-

nately, the paint doesn't get as good a grip on the cabinets as itdoes when you paint bare wood, and the enamel can chip off. Use

this approach if you are gentle with your cabinets and you aren't

looking for the longest-lasting paint job.

2. Strip, bleach, then stain white. This is the toughest

91 PRoJEcrs $50 ro $1oo

and most time-consuming approach, You can strip the old finish

off, bleach the wood, and apply a white stain (see "Getting a white

stain finish," p. 96). This Iightens the color dramatically but allows

the grain of the wood to show through, giving a "pickled" orwhitewashed look. The whole procedure will take about a week.

The success of this approach depends on the original color ofthe wood and how much of the old stain you can remove.

3. Strip, then enam€!. You can strip the old finish off,

apply two coats of enamel undercoatet then paint the cabinets

with a gloss or semi-gloss enamel ($24 per gal.). This will give you

the longestJasting finish and is the one used in the kitchen shown

here. It takes about a week, and with average use, the finish should

last 10 years. It can also be repainted.

Whichever approach you use, replace the knobs and hinges to

complete the makeover.

Covering oakgrainIf you have oak cabinets, you probably won't be able to get the

absolutely flat paint finish that is possible on fine-grained woods

like birch. The deep pores ofoak grain show up even under sev-

eral coats ofpaint.If you like the look of the grain showing through the paint,

there's no problem. If you want a mirrot-smooth finish, leave the

original finish on and sand it hard, all over, with 150-grit sandpa-

per. The idea is to save the old finish in the pores, and sand the fin-

ish off the surrounding areas. Follow with two coats of under-

coater and a coat ofenamel.

{ Strain your paint before every coat-even paint that,s freshI from the can. Use a stocking or a commerciat paint fitter. ) er;ne the surface with an appropriate undercoater. Lay the

E doors and drawers flat for painting.

Q nepair the surface after the primer coat, using wood puttyJ for holes and spackting compound for gouges.

If you have oak cabinets, test your paint finish on a drawerfront or door back before painting the whole kitchen.

Stripping the cabinetsKitchen cabinet finishes are usually very easy to remove, althoughIike all stripping, it makes a mess. you can use either a traditionalsolvent-based stripper or a water-based stripper. If you use a

solvent-based stripper, wear rubber gloves and safety goggles,don't smoke, and have plenty of cross ventilation-an openwindow at one end of the room and a fan at the other is a goodsystem. Water-based strippers are simpler and less smelly,but slower.

The stripping operation itself isn't difficult, but ir is time-consuming. Follow the directions and apply the stripper in onedirection only, then let it sit until the finish bubbles. Scrape rhefinish off with a dull putty knife. For crevices, use medium steelwool (solvent-based strippers) or a plastic scrub pad (water-basedstrippers). Clean the wood as suggested by the stripper manufac-turer, and lightly sand with 120-grit sandpaper after it's dry.

Let the stripping residue dry, then throw it in the trash. This isthe environmentally safe disposal method.

Ten steps to a great finishGlossy enamel paints are unkind to careless painters-they exag-gerate the drips, brush marks, flecks of dirt, brush hairs and allother possible imperfections of a paint job. With a flat paint, youcan touch up most of these problems, but not with a gloss enamel.You can't sand glossy enamel without destroying the gloss, and a

Use a tack cloth before every coat, after sanding thoroughlywith 15O-grit sandpaper and vacuuming off the dust.

touch-up will be glaringly obvious. That last coat of enamel has tobe perfect, because there's no repairing it.

Don't be daunted, though. If you're careful, and observe thefollowing 10 rules, you'll get a great finish.

1. Use oil enamgl. Latex enamel is easier to clean up and hasless smell, but oil enamel flows out better, leveling itself into a

smooth surface free of brush marks. Use enamel in a well-ventilatedarea, but not with a fan nearby-it'll pull dust onto the paint.

2. Use a good bruSh. Use a top-quality china-bristle brushfor oil enamel. It's not hard to tell brush quality-just look at theprice tag. It'll be between $5 and $15.

3. Strain the paint. This is essential. Even new paint, freshfrom the can, should be strained, and be absolutely sure to strainbefore your final coat.

Strain the paint into a clean container, using either manufac-tured paper filters (available at home centers and paint stores for$l), or an old nylon stocking (Photo l).

4. Paint items horizontally when possible. Laythe doors flat on a work surface or sawhorses, and keep thedrawer fronts horizontal (Photo 2). This allows the paint to flowout evenly, eliminating brush marks, and making drips and sags

less likely.

5. Paint door backs first. tf you paint the fronts first,

PATNT YouR KtrcHEN cABtNETS 95

f fip off the final coat of enamel in the direction of the

J wood grain by gently dragging just the tip of the brush

through the paint.

when the doors are turned over to paint their backs, the paint on

the front can get marred.

6. Use two coats of enamel undercoatel This is a

primer specially made for use with enamels-it sands particularly

easily and grips the wood well. The third and last coat will be your

gloss enamel.

7. Tip off liqhtly. For every painting step, drag the tip of the

brush lightly through the paint (Photo 5) in the direction ofthewood grain ("tipping off"). This reduces brush marks to their

smallest size, making it easier for the paint to flow out.

8. Use a tack cloth. After you sand bare wood or

f,, n.* hardware finishes off the job and makes the cabinetslJ look new. These knobs have a backplate to protect thepaint finish.

undercoater, vacuum offthe dust, then use a tack cloth to remove

what's left.

9. Paint in a dust-free area. And don't walk near the wet

paint because you'll kick up dust from the floor.

1O. Sand thoroughly. Remove all dust specks and surface

blemishes before you put on each coat. Start with 100-grit sand-

paper before the first coat, then use 120- or 150-grit sandpaper

between coats.

After you've painted your cabinets, and the finish is dry(around 24 hours), install the new hardware and hang the doors.

Be gentle with the enamel finish for a few days, though, because

even though it feels dry, it's still soft.

Getting a white stain finishlf you want a bright, cheerful. look, but you don't want to

cover up the wood grain, you can try a white stain finish,

also catled a "pickl.ed" finish. ln the past, this finish was

difficul.t to achieve, but now it's apptied [ike any other

wood stain. You can buy the white stain at paint stores or

home centers. Minwax white wash pickling stain is one

brand {$10 perqt.i.First, strip off a smat[, inconspicuous spot to see if

the existing stain comes off with the finish. lf it does, go

ahead and strip the rest of the cabinets and apply the

white stain.

lf the stain doesn't come off with the finish, you't[

need to scrub the stain out of the pores of the wood(Photo 1 l, then appty one or two coats of bteach or oxalic

acid ($7.50 for 1 Lb. at paint siores or rockter.coml. Then

apply two coats of stain. Wipe the f irst coat down into the

pores but keep it off the surface. Let it dry, then wipe a

second coat onto the surface.

You can then doctor the stain to make it more opaque

{add enamel undercoaterl, more transparent (add sand-

ing seal.erl or a sl,ightly different shade ladd a tinyamount of artist's oiL paint).

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sil';::

,l sttip the old finish, using a

I brass brush to tift the oldstain and finish out of the pores

of the wood.

PROJECTS $50 TO $1OO

C nppty bteach with a sponge, put-L fing it on uniformty and gener-

ousty. Rubber gtoves are essential.

? lppty two coats of stain withrJ a rag or brush, wiping thefirst coat off so it goes only intothe pores.

96

Under-bed

roll'out

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ome of the most useful andunderutilized storage space in the

bedroom is right under the bed, andyou can take advantage of it with this durableroll-out chest, made from a single sheet of ply-wood for $60. Plastic versions are also availablefor as little as $20, but wood looks better, lasts longer and lets youcustom-size your roll-out.

Measure the distance between the floor and the bottom of thebed. Subtract ll2 tn. for clearance under the bed and l/2 in. (onbare wood) to I in. (on thick carpet) for casters. Subtract anotherl/2 in. lbr the hinged top to arrive at the maximum height for thestorage box sides.

Mark all the pieces on a sheet of pl1'wood and cut them with a

table saw or a circular saw. Fasten 3/4-in. square nailers to theedges of the base with glue and finish nails or screws (Il2-in.ply-wood is too thin to nail into on edge). Attach the sides to the base,

adding square nailers at the corners. Fasten the caster supports tothe sides, then nail the outer side pieces to the caster supports.

Attach the front and back. Add the filler strips on top of thecaster supports and the last nailer along the top edge of the back.Finally, nail on the fixed top, set the hinged top against it andscrew on the hinges. Attach the hinges using 1/2-in. screws so thescrews don't stick through the top.

Cutting listKEY QTY. SIZE & DESCRIPTION

A 1 42" x30-112" topB 2 42" x6" front and back

C 4 33" x 6" sides

D 1 42" x4" fixed top

t I J/ XJJ bASC

F 2 33" x 3/4" x 3/4" side naiters

G 3 35-1/2" x3/4" x314" front and back naitersH 4 4-3/4" x3/4" x314" corner naiters

J 2 33 x 1-1/2" fi[[er stripsK 4 3-5lB" x1-112" x5-112" castersupports

Note: AII 1/2" pLywood

.'t7--------<:!

.- 12"-.9.

Materials listITEM

AC-grade /+' x8' xl12" pLywood

3' x314" x 3/4" square dowe[s

2x6x2'pine2" f ixed caster wheeLs

1 -112" hinges

1" and 1-112" brad nailsNote: Atl mateiols and dimensions ore for a7-1/2-in.-tatl under-bed spoce. If you hove noreor [ess space, adjust these measurements.

/J-/

12',

Figure

0veral[ dimensions:7" Hx42" W x34-7/2" D

]'

i---s-PAINT YOUR KITCHEN CABINETSI UNDER-BED ROLL OUT 97

9 ways tosave electri

ith electricity prices on the rise, open-

ing your utility bill can be a sobering

experience. The following pages

show how to lower that bill as much as possible.

These nine tips can cut your electric bill by up to

40 percent.

Everlthing you need to start saving is available at

home centers or online. But before you start, findout about rebate programs by contacting your local util-ity company and reading "Web Sites That Can

Save You Money" on p. 101. You might just get a check for sav-

ing electricity!

Motion sensors (occupancy sensors)

automatically turn lights on and offso you only get (and pay for!) light

when you need it (Photo 1). Using

motion sensors can save you $100

per year. Some motion sensors need

to be manually turned on but turnoff automatically. They're great for

bedrooms because they won't turnon when you move in your sleep.

Some switches are installed injunction boxes; others are wireless.

You can also buy light fixtures withbuilt-in motion sensors. You'llneed special motion sensors forelectronic ballasts that controlCFLs (Leviton's ODS10, $64, is one

type). Special-order them at home

centers or buy them at grainger.com

(800-323-0620).

Use timers to control bath fans so the fan will run for a preset

time to air out the room and then automatically turn off (Photo

2). You can set the lengh of time you want the fan to run. Timer

98 spEctAL sECTt0N: ENERGY-sAVtNG PR0JEcrs

r? ^ .. w*r MT-Iru t4b]

I Lv v tV tm sTlros taTTHo[,R lriETER 60Hz

4w ' ?o 487 353

lnstall smarter switches

IEEE,qBE%r

4 motion sensors are the perfect solution S n tit.t lets you turn on the fan and

& for Left-on tights. They turn off automati- & watk away. You don't have to remem-

cally so you don't waste electricity. ber to come back later and turn it off.

switches start at $21. Be sure the timer you buy is rated formotors, not just lighting (check the label).

y Energy Star appliances

When you shop for appliances, look for theEnergy Star label. It means the appliancemeets certain energy-efficiency guidelines.

The average household spends $2,000 each

year on energy bills. Energy Star says thatappliances bearing its label can cut thosebills by 30 percent, for an annual savings ofabout $600. But you don't have to replaceevery'thing to see a savings. Just replacing aneight-year-old refrigerator with a newEnergy Star model can save $ll0 a year ormore in electricity.

Not sure what to do with your old appli-ance? Recycle it. Don't salvage and resell it-that only passes the electricity-hoggingappliance along to someone else. Checkwith your utility company or local homecenter for programs for appliance pickupand recycling. Or visit dsireusa.org.

Look for the Energy star label when buying appliances. It te[s you that the productmeets strict standards for energy efficiency.

Service your air conditioner

The best way to keep your air conditioner running at peak efficiency is to spenda couple of hours each year on basic maintenance-cteaning and straighteningthe fins, changing the filter and tubricating the motor.

Roughly half of an average home's annual energybill (gas and electric), about g1,000, is spent onheating and cooling. Air conditioners placedin direct sunlight use up to 10 percent more elec-tricity. Ifyours sits in the sun, plant tall shrubs orshade trees nearby-but don't enclose the unitor impede the airflow. Place window units onthe north side of the house or install an awningover them.

Keep your window or central air conditionertuned up so it runs at peak efficiency. Every two orthree years, call in a pro to check the electrical partsand the refrigerant (expect to pay $150).

If your central air conditioner is more than 12

years old, replacing it with an Energy Star modelcan cut your cooling costs by 30 percent and save

maintenance costs. The payback for replacing a

12-year-old system is typically about eight years.

An air conditioner's efficiency level is measured bythe seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). Thehigher the number, the more efficient the unit. A13 or 14 SEER rating is considered high efficiency.

SPECIAL SECTI0N: ENERGY-SAVING PROJECTS 99

Kill energy vampires

Seventy-five percent of the electrical use by home

electronics occurs when they're turned off,according to the Department of Energy. These

"energy vampires" suck electricity all day long-costingyou an extra $100 eachyear. So ifyou'd like

to keep that Ben Franklin in your wallet, unplug

your electronics or plug them into a power strip,

then turn offthe strip.

Don't worry about losing the settings on new

computers and TVs. They have a memory chip

that resets everything when you power back up. Ifyou have an old VCR or other devices that flash

when the power goes out, keep it plugged in. Some

power strips,like the BITS Smart Strip shown ($40

at energyfederation.org; 800 -37 9 - 4121), have a

few outlets that always have power even when you

flip off the switch. This type of strip has a main

outlet for the computer. When you turn off the

computer, the strip also shuts down other devices,

such as your scanner, printer or modem.

Add attic insulation

'r i :l-.' EiShty Percent ofhouses buittbefore 1 980 areu nderi nsu [ated.

-Depaftment ofEnergy

In most homes, but especially in older homes, adding insulation in

the attic will cut heat loss. At a minimum, homes should have

attic insulation between R-22 and

R-49 (6 to 13 in. of loose fill or 7 to

19 in. of fiberglass batts). Visitenergystar.gov (search "attic insu-

lation") or energy.gov for the

recommended level for your area.

Stick your head through the

attic access door and measure how much insulation you have. If your

insulation is at or below the minimum, adding some will lower your

heating bills.

If you need to add more, go with loose-fiIl insulation rather than

fiberglass batts even ifyou already have fiberglass. Loose fiIl is usually

composed of cellulose or fiberglass and lets you cover joists and get

into crevices. Pros charge about 704 per sq. ft. to blow in 7 to 8 in. ofinsulation. You can rent a blower ($55 a day) and do the job yourself

for less than half that cost, but it's a messy job and you have to watch

your step so you don't go through the dri'wall "floor" in the attic'

100 spEctAL sECTroN: ENERGy-sAVtNG PR0JEcrs

Savings:Change furnace filter

Up to SeO a year

Keeping your furnace (gas or electric) tuned up has two big benefits: It makes thefurnace run efficiently and it prolongs the furnace's life span. And you can performthe annual tune-up yourselfin about three hours.

Change the filter every month ofthe heating season (or year-round ifthe filter isalso used for A/c). Be sure you insert the new one so it faces the right way. The filterprotects the blower and its motor; a clogged filter makes the motor work harder anduse more power.

Web sitesthatcansave you moneyLooking for rebate programs that payyou to buy energy-efficient productsand apptiances? Check out these sites.You'tL atso f ind sites where you can buyenergy-eff icient products.

w energy.gov. The Department ofEnergy's site provides informationon how to use energy more effi-ciently in your home.

w dsireusa.org. A database of stateincentives for using energy-efficientprod ucts.

w efi.org. Energy Federation lnc. settsenergy-eff icient products.

& energystar.gov. Energy Star offersadvice for buying energy-efficientproducts and appIiances, and cuttingeLectricaI and energy costs.energytaxincentives.org. The TaxIncentives Assistance Project pro-vides information on using federaIincome tax incentives for energy-efficient products.

Save on electric water heatinSavings: Up to SZS a year

If you only use an electric water heater at cer-tain times of the day, you're wasting electricitykeeping the water hot 2417. To solve that prob-lem, install an electronic timer switch (Photo l;$40 at home centers). Timers are available for120- and 240-volt heaters. They can be pro-grammed for daily or weekiy schedules so youonly heat the water when you need it. A timercan save you $25 per year.

To make your water heater even more effi-cient, drain the tank and flush out the sedimentat the bottom (Photo 2 and p. 48). Otherwise,you could be heating through inches of sedi-ment before heating the water.

If your electric water heater is warm or hotto the touch, it's losing heat. Wrap it with aninsulating blanket (922 at home centers).

,* A timer turns on the water heater...r. onty when you need it, so you

don't waste electricity heating andreheating water that sits in the tank.

".$ Sediment lowers the efficiencyi!!r of your water heater. Turn off

the power, hook up a hose to thedrain valve and drain the tank every6 to 12 months.

spEctAL SECTIoN: ENERGy-sAVtNG pR0JEcrs 101

Get smart meteringSavings: Up to StaO a year

Smart metering programs vary among

utility companies, but the basic idea is the

same: The utility installs a special "smart"

meter that tracks how much electricityyou're using. The utility uses that data to

make sure its power grid doesn't get over-

loaded and cause blackouts. If the grid

nears capacity, the utility can shut offmajor appliances in homes for short peri-

ods of time (such as l5 minutes perhour). Not all companies offer smartmetering, but some do and many others

are considering it.What's in it for you? Moneyl Some

programs pay about $7.50 per month for

signing up. Others let you view your

home's usage online in reai time so you

can better manage your electrical con-

sumption. Others let you choose "real-

time" or "time-of-use" pricing that allows

you to pay less for electricity that's used

during off-peak hours (for example, on

weekdays from early afternoon until 8

p.m.). These plans reward you for using

electricity when it's cheapest. Smartmetering makes the most sense if you're

away from home all day-you won'tnotice or care if things get turned off(although it's a good idea for everyone

else too!). According to SRP, a power util-ity company, the plans cut 7 percent offyour bill, which is $140 for the average

Time-of-use meters replace the existingmeter and attach to the meter box. Theyenable you to pay less for electricityused at certain times of the day.

$2,000 yearly energy bill. Check with yourlocal company to find out what smart

il::rtt programs are available in your

'tr

€

-g

ur refrigerator for less

Your refrigerator uses more electricity than all

your other kitchen appliances combined. To keep

its energy costs down, clean the coils twice a year,

which improves efficiency by 30 to 50 percent.

Your fridge and freezer run more efficiently

when they're full. Put water containers inthe fridge and ice bags in your freezer to keep

them filled. Keep the refrigerator setting between

35 and 38 degrees and the freezer between 0 and

5 degrees F.

Refrigerator door seals wear out over time.

Test your seal by closing a dollar bill in the door. Ifit pulls out easily, replace the seal.

If your fridge was made before 2001, it's using

at least 40 percent more electricity than new

Energy Star models. If you're replacing yourfridge, buy an Energy Star model and recycle your

old one (visit recyclemyoldfridge.com to find outhow). Don't hook up the old one in the basement

or garage-an inefficient refrigerator costs as

much as $280 a year in electricity, according to

the Consumer Energy Center. Any money you

save buying food in bulk and storing it in an inef-

ficient second fridge is lost in electric costs.

1O2 spEcrAt sECTIoN: ENERGy-sAVrNG PR0JEcrs

Brush and vacuum thecleaning brush ($6 attight areas.

coits at the bottom orapptiance parts stores

the back of theor amazon.com)

refrigerator. A coilis bendable to fit in

Save $f 50 with CFLsompact fluorescent lights really aren't "new" any more.Ed Hammer, a GE engineer, invented the modern CFL inthe 1970s in response to that decade's energy crisis.

Thirty years later, CFLs have become mainstream, although someconsumers, especially those who had bad experiences with theearlyversions, have been slow to jump on board. Many of the ear-lier CFLs took a while to reach full brightness, and once they did,the light had a cold, bluish quality that many people found unap-pealing. Advances in design and manufacturing-specifically,new electronic ballasts-have reduced the time it takes for CFLsto reach full brightness. Electronic ballasts have also helped elimi-nate annoying flicker and hum. Plus, you can now buy bulbs thatemit a "warm" light, if that's what you prefer.

And the energy savings are real. Choose a CFL with the EnergyStar label and you can save $30 or more in electricity costs overthe life of the bulb (compared with the costs of using an incandes-cent bulb for the same amount of time).

Ilisposing of broken and spentbutbsAll CFLs contain a small amount of mercury, which can beharmful to people, pets and the environment. If you break a CFLbulb, have people and pets leave the room. Open a window for atleast 15 minutes so no one breathes in any fine mercury dust.Then return and scoop up the debris with a piece of cardboard.(Small particles can be wiped up with a damp paper towel.) place

the cardboard, paper towel and broken bulb into a plasticbag. Sweeping and vacuuming are not recommended for cleanupon hard surfaces.

Where notto use a CFL

There are severaI ptaces where you shoutdn't use a

CFL Lightbutb:

I Areas that are subject to vibration, such as understairs and the garage.

I Fixtures that are subject to extreme heat, co[d orhumidity. Buy "weatherproof" bulbs for fixturesthat are exposed to the elements.

tr Fixtures that are turned on and off frequently.For anything other than a standard [ight fixture,such as a f ixture with a dimmer switch, a three-way[amp switch, a remote, a photo or motion sensor oran eLectronic or digitaLtimer, read the packaging tobe sure the bul.b is suitabte. Atso read the packag-ing if you want to use a CFL outdoors or in anenc[osed fixtu re.

Choosing the right brightnessLight output is measured in lumens. Use this sim-ple chart to compare the brightness of an incandes-cent buIb with that of a CFL. Buy a CFL with a tightoutput (LumenJ number equivatent to, or better yet,stightLy higher than that of the incandescent bulbyou're reptacing. CFLs can dim over time, so choos-ing a higher light output number is a good idea.Atso, because CFLs don't generate heat as incan-descents do, you can use buLbs with higher tightoutput without the danger of overheating.

lncandescent Minimum Light CFLs

lwatts] Output {tumensl lwatts)40 450 9_1360 800 13 _ 15

75 1,100 18 _ 25

1 00 1,600 23 _ 30

150 2,600 30 _ 52

Choosing the right colorCFL Lightbutbs described as warm" or "soft" giveoff Light that is comparabLe to thai of an incandes-cent butb and are weL[ suited for residentiaI use.CFLs described as "coo[," "bright white," "natura["

or "daylight" have a btuish-white tight, which somepeopte prefer for reading and other detaiI work.

Warm white light Bluish-white [ight

SPECIAL SECTI0N: ENERGY-SAVING PROJECTS 103

On soft surfaces like carpeting, put on

gloves and pick up as many pieces as you

can by hand or with the help of sticky

tape and put everlthing into a plastic bag.

If you have to vacuum, remove the bag

and place it in a plastic bag or wipe outthe canister ifthe vacuum is bagless.

Proper disposal of spent CFLs

depends on where you live. Some com-

munities allow disposal with the normal

trash. Ifthis isn't the case where you live,

visit earth9ll.org to find recyclingcenters near you by entering "CFL'andyour zip code. Some retail stores, likeIKEA and some Ace Hardware stores, col-

lect spent CFLs for recycling. And a num-ber of national organizations,

such as the U.S. Recycling Hot-line at (800) 253-2687 and the

EPA at epa.gov/bulbrecycling orearth91l.org, can help youidentiff local rerycling options.

Home Depot now accepts

spent CFLs.

For additional detailedinformation on CFLs and many

other energy-saving topics, visitenergystar.go\'.

You can atso visit energystar.gov and click on

the "Choose a Light Guide" in the CFL tightingsection for an interactive way to determinewhich CFL is best for a given type of fixture.

r&Candetabra

CeiLing fansWaL[ sconces

:*

FloodRecessed cansTrack Iighting

!r:1* rtf

Spiral,/TwistTable/floor [amps

Open ceilingfi xtu res

Ceiting fansWatL sconces

3Post

Ceiting fansWatL sconces

w

Jl

Choosing the right bulb forthe fixtureRefer to the chart betow to help you select the best CFLs for your fixtures.CFLs fit into atl' screw-in fixtures, but consider looks as weLl. as tight.Twist-style butbs tight faster, but more traditionaL-l.ooking A-[ines and

gtobes are a better choice when the bu[b wiLL be visibLe.

tfr!A-line

Tabte/ftoor [ampsPendant fixtures

Ceiling fans

GlobePendant fixtures

CeiLing fans

Cover leaky windows1} Leaky windows are one of the biggest sources of energy loss

An Fl in a t)'pical home. If your windows leak all winter long,

U .ou.r,h.- with plastic film. A $13 kit covers five 3 x 5-ft.

windows. The plastic also reduces window condensa-

tion and can be used with curtains or blinds. The

film is available for the exterior and interior.

Apply double-sided tape (included) to the

each side. Starting at a top corner, apply the ., :

window casing. Cut the film roughly to size

with scissors,leaving a few extra inches on -:'t= ;.t!fi

filmfirmlytothetapearoundallfoursidesof ' 4 tl ithe window. Use a hair dryer to remove the '-. .

!l

wrinkles. When winter is over, take down the u+ I ;.+:,plastic and pull the tape off the casing. The tape :

removes easily without damaging the finish. *;t

1ol spEctAL sECTtoN: ENERGy-sAVtNG pROJEcrs

{J

Textured watts in one day

Cast a concrete fountain

Tite your backsplash

Bathroom cabinet

Custom closet organizer

andcrafted plaster walls have a classic beauty thatperfectly flat drywall can never achieve. Picture the

walls in an old Italian villa or a 1920s American bunga-

low with wide, ornate trim. Now you can easily create the lookyourself using one of several products that are texture and color

all in one.

The three-step product shown here is called Manda Mudd. Itcomes in three standard l-gal. paint cans (enough for an average

350 sq. ft. of wall space). Most rooms can be completed in less

than a day. Cleanup is easywith soap and water. So ifyou consider

yourself an average do-it-yourselfer in the painting zone, you'll

be able to tackle this forgiving process by following the step-by-

step photos.

106 PRoJEcrs groo ro glso

Many other color/texture techniques require you to choose

your own color combinations and glazes, leaving the end result to

chance. Manda Mudd removes the guesswork by creating the

color combinations for you. Each of the 42 color sets available

consists of three complementary colors. The first coat is the base

color and the next two applications add texture as well as color to

the wall, resulting in a rich three-dimensional effect. In fact you

can use this product over existing wall texture or hard-to-remove

wallpaper (see "Problem Walls," p. 109).

Go to the Buyer's Guide on p. 109 for information on where to find

this product and get color samples. Figure on spending about $140

for the three-step product and another $35 for the application kit.You can save money by forgoing the (optional) application kit

4w

slEp'z'K'l"rIr q *'"|:ir'

and using a plastic dustpan and a grout float (a tool used to spreadtile grout). You'll also need L-ll2-in. masking tape and self-adhe-sive masking paper to cover the baseboard and the tops of doorsand windows.

Prep yourwalls and practiceBegin the project by filling any nail holes and repairing damageddrlwall or plaster. If the room has been occupied by smokers or isa kitchen with a grease fiim, you'll need to wash the walls with a

TSP cleaner and then wipe them down with a damp cloth to get

the paint to bond weli. Spot-prime any newly patched surfaces

and then mask the woodwork (Photo l). If your room has wall-paper that's tough to remove, see p. 109.

{ masl the woodwork and the ceiling and remove the etectricatI cover plates. Repair walls and spot-prime as needed.

As with any other new process, you should practice on a scrap

before starting. Buy a damaged sheet of drywall at a home center,

cut it 2 to 3 ft. wide and prime it. Then experiment with theprocess. It'll get you familiar with drying times and how best touse the application tool. This way when you get to your wall,you'll have a good feel for the technique and your results will bemore consistent.

Step 1: Paint the roomThe idea behind this step is to create a base color that completelycovers the walls. It will show through only as background for theother two steps. First, cut in the corners and then roll the base

onto the wall, as you would with regular paint. The consistency is

TEXTURED wALLS tN oNE DAy 1O7

just like that of paint. You'Il get excellent

coverage with one coat even if you use a

dark color over a light one, as shown here.

When you're finished, let this coat dry.

This room was ready for the next step inabout an hour.

Step 2: Trowelthe mudThe product for this texture step is the

consistency of runny drywall joint com-

pound, or very thick gravy. There are as

many ways to apply the texture as there

are people who try it, so don't worryabout doing it "right." The idea is to cover

a bit less than half of the visible surface

with random strokes of mud.

Pour a little into your pan. Get your

float ready with your other hand and start

applying. Work from the ceiling down,

completing one wall at a time. If you're

uncomfortable on a stepladder, consider

setting up a wide plank on top of sturdy

crates to reach the top of an 8-ft. wall. Dip

about half the float (lengthwise) into the

pan, wipe off a bit of the excess and then

lightly push the float onto the wall withthe float pointing upward, as shown inPhoto 4. Keep the float nearly flat against

the wall and drag it across, pulling the

mud mixture as you go. Repeat this about

every 4 to 5 in. along the wall. If you

repeat this process over the entire wallholding the float in this upward fashion,

you'll produce an even, consistentpattern. You can also achieve a morerandom, hand-troweled look like the

walls in this room have if you turn your

float 45 or more degrees every other dip.

Try both methods on your sample board

and see which you like best.

Don't get bogged down in one area;

keep the motion going and refill your pan

as necessary. After you've completed an

area about the size of a coffee table, step

back and examine the wall.You may need

to go back and add strokes to certain

spots to get a more "even" look. Remem-

ber, don't apply too much texture at this

J Complete a 2 x 4-ft. sample to6 practice your ski[[s. Apply the base

coat (Step 1) to the corners and alongthe ceiling, baseboard, and window and

door trim using a 2-1/2-in. brush.

tip t"r'* bound to drip somemud onto the floor or thewa[[ beneath, so haverags ready to swab thewat[ or clean up the drop-ctoth. You don't want tostep into the mud andtrack it onto carpeting.

time; there's another Iayer of texture tocome. You can always go back and apply

more. As it dries, you can start to see how

the room will look.

] eou, about 12 ozs. of Step 2 texture mixture into the application tray. Diprt ttr. edge of the float into the tray, then putt the float across the walt toappty a thin layer over the base coat. Dip the float often with small amounts ofproduct. Don't completely obscure the wall cotor behind; just create a thinbuitdup of material over the entire wall surface.

108 PRoJEcrs $1 oo ro $1 5o

! Immediatel,y fottow the brushworkJ with a 3/8-in. nap rolter on smoothwalls or a t/2-in. roller on texturedwatls. Let the walls dry.

f mimic the overall texture even in tightJ areas and along trim. Move the troweledge at a different angte to produce a more

random texture.

6 OOO,y the finat product from the Step 3 can in the sametl, manner as Step 2, letting the two previous applicationsshow beneath. The slightly different shade from the previousproduct will give the wa[[ a deeper, three-dimensional appearance.

Step 3: More mudBy the time you've finished the last wall with the first textureapplication, the starting point will be dry and you can open theIast can and get started. You'll notice that this mix is about thesame consistency as the previous one. Dip your float into the panand repeat the previous method. Try to cover some of the back-ground color from Step I that you didn't cover earlier, but alsooverlap onto the Step 2 texture as well. Vary the starting points of

the strokes at the

BuYer's Guide corners and along

ro find Manda Mudd, 9o to :TltT and base

MANDAMUDD.com. you cln Loot< at trim to avoidco[or samp[es, order on[ine and find making a similarretaiters in your area. 0r catl Manda pattern along theMudd at '8771 626-3268 for more i ,retail information. length of the trim'

Try to imagine

] Gentty slice through the texture surface to release thef masking paper and tape from the textured surface after

it dries.

that the trim, windows and doors aren't there, and have thetexture flow across the wall.

Step back occasionally to see "the big picture" and try to main-tain a random uniformity.

Finishing touchesOnce you've completed the project, take a break for an hour andthen go back and examine it. You can still apply more mud toareas you missed or those that look too plain.

If your newly completed room is in a heavy traffic area such as

a bathroom or hallway, you can protect the texture with a clearwater-based satin finish once the wall is dry. Just cut in the cornersand along the trim with a brush and use a Il2-in.-nap roller tocover large areas. You can also use a product called Tile Lab GroutSealer, which is available at home centers. Keep in mind that clearfinishes can darken the color slightly.

Fr*h{*rw wr*iislf you've tried to remove stubborn wallpaper and the resu[t was a

lot of torn edges, this cotor/texture finish is a great way to coverthem. Because wa[lpaper paste can tift when water-based latexpaint is apptied, you't[ need to seaI the entire waLL with an oil.-based primer/seaLer [ike Cover Stain by Zinsser, which is avaiL-

abLe at home centers for $15 per gaL[on. But firstremove any rough waltpaper edges with a

scraper and then sand LightLy to featherthe edges. lf there are air bubbles in thewaLtpaper, cut them with a utiLity knifeand scrape the surface with a puttyknife. Wipe the waIL clean with a lightLy

dampened cloth, Let the watL dry and thenprime the entire surface with the primer.

Use an organic respirator, which is availableat home centers, hardware and paint stores. Once

the primer is dry, you can start with the Step 1 product.lf your watls have an old texture that's been compromised by

smoother-tooking spot repairs, you can go right over the otd andcreate a new texture using Manda Mudd.

ORGANICRESPIRATOR

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rvZ."i<6r^

*+,i i#

TEXTURED WALLS IN ONE DAY 109

Cast a

concretefountain

you want to add the sight and sound of moving water to

your yard without the heavy work and frequent mainte-

nance of a pond or waterfall, consider a fountain. Unlike

a pond or waterfall, a freestanding fountain doesn't require hard

labor and there's very little maintenance to do later. Best of all,

you can place a fountain just about anywhere: among plants,

inside a sun porch, or on a deck or patio. You could even build a

pair to flank a gateway or path.

The following pages show you how to cast a fountain using

inexpensive materials that are readily available at home centers.

This design combines the style of top-selling models found at gar-

den centers with super-simple construction techniques. If you

can handle basic tools like a circular saw and drill, you can build

it, even if you've never worked with concrete before. Expect to

spend about six hours assembling forms and pouring concrete,

plus another couple of hours removing forms and setting up the

fountain. The materials for this fountain cost about $120. Foun-

tains of a similar size and style (usually made from fiberglass orplastic) cost about $500 at garden centers.

Build forms from foamTo mold concrete, you pour wet concrete mix into a form. You can

build forms from wood, but rigid foam insulation is perfect for a

small project like this. Foam is lightweight, smooth and easy to

cut. Concrete won't stick to foam, so you can reuse the outer form

parts to cast several fountains. Best of all, you can assemble sec-

tions of foam with the ultimate quick-and-simple fastening sys-

tem: duct tape! Be sure to use "extruded" polystyrene, not"expanded" polystyrene bead board. A 4 x 8-ft. sheet of 2-in.-

thick foam costs about $20 at home centers. Inspect the sheet

before you buy, and handle it carefully-deep scratches or dents

will show up as bumps on the surface of your fountain.

Figures B and C show the dimensions of the column and basin

form parts. Cut the tapered parts (A and C) with a circular saw

using a standard wood-cutting saw blade (Photo l). It's difficultto make perfectly straight cuts with a circular saw because the

blade can easily wander in the soft foam. But don't worry about

slightly wary cuts; they won't affect the final product. Cut the

square and rectangular parts with a table saw or circular saw. Cut

the 8-in. round disc (D) with a drywall saw. Wrap the disc with

duct tape to cover the rough edges left by the drywall saw (avail-

able at home centers for $7).

110 PRoJEcrs $1oo ro $150

CONCRETEMtxCombine basic

materials andclever techniquesto create afountain in oneweekend.

FLOWER-POT

EXTRUDEDFOAM

INSULATION

Figure ACast consrete fsuntain

Assemble the forms with duct tapeTo begin, cut out the foam parts and assemble them. Keep inmind that you'll build the column and base forms and pour themin the upside-down position. Also, be sure to place the printedside ofthe foam face out; the ink can stain the concrete.

Tape the seams of the outer column form together and thenwrap it with tape. Stretch the tape firmly as you wrap to create

tight seams. Assemble the inner form with tape and 3-in. screws(Photo 2). Tape the basin form sides (G) to the base (H). Screwone basin block (F) to the base, then screw the second block ontothe first. Mark a 4 x 4-in. square on the block to represent theopening at the bottom of the column. Then cut two slits in thefoam and insert anchors made from l0-gauge copper electricalwire (Photo 3). Leave the legs of each anchor protruding 3/4 in.from the foam. You'll use these anchors later to tie the column andbasin together (see Photo 8 inset). Be sure to use plastic-coated wire.Copper that's in direct contact with concrete eventually corrodes.

Form the sphere with a plastic ballTo form the sphere, you'll need a toy ball, a plastic flowerpot and a

bag of 20-minute setting-t)?e joint compound (which is meantfor covering drywall joints). Buy a cheap ball (g3) made fromsmooth, thin plastic and make sure it's fully inflated. Don't use a

thick-skinned ball like a soccer ball or basketball.Cover the holes in the flowerpot with duct tape. Mix the joint

compound powder with water until it's the consistency ofpancake batter. It's OK if the mix is a bit lumpy. Then pour 3 in.of compound into the pot and set the ball into it wirh the air plugfacing straight up. Hold a 3-in. cardboard ring (left overfrom duct tape) on the ball as you cover the ball with at least I in.of joint compound (Photo 4). Work fast-the joint compoundwill start to stiffen after about 10 minutes. You may have to holdthe ring in place for a minute or two to prevent the ball fromfloating up.

Let the compound harden overnight. Then puncture the ballwith a utility knife and pull it out through the ring. Rub mar-garine onto a small rag and coat the inside ofthe form so the con-crete won't stick to it. If your handwon't fit through the ring, recruit a

helper with smaller hands.

Fill the forms withconcreteSince the concrete isn't reinforcedwith wire mesh or rebar, concrete mixthat contains tiny threads of fiberglass

is best for this project (QuikreteCrack-Resistant concrete is one brand).This project used one l0-oz. bottle ofQuikrete Cement Color per 80-lb. bag

of concrete to pigment the mix. Homecenters typically carry three or fourcolors (this project used "buff").

The fountain consists of three separate parts: asphere, a hollow column and a basin. A pump driveswater up through the sphere, where it bubbles out,cascades down the column and returns to the basin.

Overall height: 42 in.Basin footprint: 20 x 20 in.

Duct tape, 3-in. screws, 20-minute setting-type joint compound (1 bag), 12-in. ftower-pot, 3-in. ABS toiLet ftange, hot gtue, 9- or1 0-in.-diameter batL, 1/2-in. gaLvanizedhardware cLoth, river pebbles.

Pump: Setect a pump that del.ivers atLeast 300 gallons per hour and inctudesadjustab[e ftow controt. Pumps areavai[able at home and garden centers.To find ontine sources for the pump usedhere, type "Beckett M350AUt' into anyon[ine search engine.

*Three 80-lb. bags of concrete fitled these forns, but just barely. Since the lmount of concrete in a bag canvary slightly, buy four bags ond four bottles of cotoront.

Materials listI One 4 x 8-ft. sheet of 2-in. extruded

polystyrene foam insulation

I Four* 80-Lb. bags of concrete mix[or five 60-tb. bagsl

I Four* 1 0-oz. bottLes of QuikreteCement CoLor or equivalent

I 2 ft. of 1/2-in. PVC pipe

) 2fI. of pump tubing

I 2 ft. of 1 0-gauge insulated copper wire

CAST A cONcRETE FOUNTAIN 111

'l mark out the form Darts and cut them with a circular saw.

I Support the foam with 2x4s. Assemble the column formparts with duct tape.

) Srr"* the disc (D) to the inner form, then screw the disc toE the end cap (E). Slip the inner form into the column formand tape it in ptace.

Q fape the basin form together and ,/J screw in the two inner blocks .<(F). Mark a 4-in. square in the . ///'

\\\-t1t2"center and insert wire anchors )'--1/4 in. inside the square.

Fill the sphere form first,before the mix begins to \stiffen. Shake the form to drive 3" ----l\out large air pockets. Then insert a

24-in.-long piece of l/2-in. PVC pipe -wllE-(see Figure A and Photo 7). Cover the end

of the pipe with tape to keep out the

concrete. Center the pipe and hold a level against it to make sure

it's standing straight up.

112 PRoJEcrs $r oo ro $1 so

ring on top. When the compound hardens, puncture the ba[[ andpull it out. Let the compound cure overnight before you fitt itwith concrete.

Fill the column form by dropping in scoops of concrete on all

four sides. If you fill only from one side, you'll bend the inner

form. When you've dropped in about 6 in. of concrete, tamp itwith a 1x2 to fill in large voids. Tamp for about 10 seconds; more

tamping will give the concrete a smoother surface, while less

L Create a sphere form byC* couering a ball with jointcompound while holding a tape

Figure BCslumn fsrr*

oACCESS HOLE

BLOCK,(4" x 4")

-?

oINNER FORM

SIDE

3" SCREW

oDtsc

(8" DtA.)

Note: The column and basin areformed and cast upside down.

tamping will leave more craters and crevices. Whatever surfacetexture you want, be consistent with your tamping all the way upfor a uniform appearance. Continue to fill and tamp in 6-in.increments until the concrete is 4 in. from the top of the form.Then add the block that creates the access hole and the wireanchors (Photo 5).

When you fill the basin form (Photo 6), tamp the concrete thesame way and be careful not to dislodge the wire anchors youinstalled earlier. Slide a 2x4back and forth as you drag it across

the form to screed off the excess concrete.

Wait, then remove the formsLet the concrete "wet cure" for at least a week before you removethe forms. The longer concrete stays damp, the stronger it gets.

f, rilt the cotumnJ form with con-crete. When it'snearly fu[[, insertthe access-holeblock (B) and wireanchors. Then finishfilling the form.

6 #JHr.'""screed" off theexcess concretewith a 2x4. Letthe concrete curefor a week beforeyou remove anyof the forms.

Cover the column and basin with plastic garbage bags to slowdown evaporation. To remove the sphere form, just break it away(Photo 7). To remove the outer forms of the column and basin,simply slice the tape with a utility knife. To remove the blocks (F)inside the basin, cut the foam into sections with a drywall saw andbreak them out. Removing the column's inner form is a slowerprocess; cut the foam with a drlnvall saw and pry out small chunkswith a puttyknife, and then cut some more.

Put it alltogetherBefore you assemble the fountain, mount a 3-in. black plastictoilet flange in the recess at the top of the column (see Figure Aand Photo 8). The flange supports the sphere and stands about1/4 in. above the top of the column. This allows water to fill the

cASr A coNcRETE FoUNTAIN 113

Keep an eye on the water level

ever you run the pump. If the

runs dry, the pump wiII burn

when-

basin

out.

(O ri. ttr" column to the base

C) uy ioining the anchorswith wire. Feed the tube intothe cotumn and set the spherein place. Pu[[ the tube throughthe access hole and connect thepump. Cover the reservoir withhardware ctoth and pebbles.

7 Cut a*ay the ptastic pot withf tn ttre sphere form and break

putty knife.

a utility knife. Saw deep kerfsit open by prying with a stiff

recess and spill out over the sides ofthe column. Cover the screw holes and bolt slots

in the flange with duct tape, then set it in place. Apply lots ofhot glue over the flange

and around it to lock the flange in place and plug all the holes watertight (the tape

prevents the glue from dripping through holes).

The column and basin weigh about 100 lbs. each, so you'll need a helper or a

mover's dolly to move them. Tie the anchors together with the same wire you used

for the anchors (Photo 8 inset). Then nudge the column to make sure you twisted

the wires tightly enough. It's OK if the column rocks slightly, but it must be

absolutely tip-proofsince the fountain will attract curious kids.

Connect a 2-ft. section offlexible tubing to the sphere's PVC pipe. The vinyl tub-

ing made to fit the pump slipped tightly inside the PVC pipe. If your tubing doesn't

fit tightly, use hose clamps or other fittings. Set the ball in piace (Photo 8) and posi-

tion the pump. Trim the tubing to length and connect it to the pump. Fill the recess

at the top of the column with smooth black"river pebbles." In the basin, support the

pebbles with four "cribs" from 1/2-in. wire mesh (called "hardware cloth"). Cut the

mesh into 9-ll2'in.x 12-in. sections, then bend them over a 2x4 block to form cribs

3 in. tall, 3-112 in. wide and 12 in. long. Cover the cribs with pebbles. This leaves all

the space below the cribs open for water storage. If you simply fill the basin withpebbles, you'lI greatly reduce the water-holding capacity.

Fill the basin with water and start the pump (the outlet that powers the pump

mustbe GFCI protected). Turn the flow-control knob on the pump to adjust the

water flow. If the water spills down one side of the column but not the others, slip a

flat pry bar under that side of the basin. Raise the basin and place shims under ituntil water flows evenly down all four sides of the column.

The fountain loses water because of splashing and evaporation, so keep an eye

on the water level whenever you run the pump. If the basin runs dry, the pump willburn out. On a very hot, windy day, you may need to add water after just a few

hours. In a cold climate, freezing water could crack the basin and destroy the pump.

Each winter, remove the pump, empty the basin and either move the fountain

indoors or cover it with a plastic bag.

111 PRoJEcrs $1 oo ro $1 so

othing packs more style per square inch than mosaictile. So if your kitchen's got the blahs, give it a quickinfusion of excitement with a tile backsplash. Because the

small tiles are mounted on 12 x l2-in. sheets, installation is fast.You can install the tile on Saturday and then grout it on Sunday.

Professionals charge about $20 per sq. ft. for installing the tile(plus materials), so you'll save $20 for every sheet you install your-self. The sheets cost $8 to more than $20 each at home centers andtile stores.

The total cost for a backsplash ranges from about $100 to$200, depending on the tiles you use. The sheets shown here cost

$10 apiece.

The following pages show you how to install the tile sheets.

You'll need basic tile tools, available at home centers and tilestores, including a 3/16-in. trowel (99) and a grout float (g5).You'll also need mastic adhesive ($l l for I gallon), grout (g20 forthe l7-lb. bag of premium grout shown here) and grout sealer($10 for I qt.). You can rent a wet saw to cut the tiles ($40 for fourhours, or $55 for the day).

Preparethe wallsBefore installing the tile, clean up any grease splatters on the wall(mastic won't adhere to grease). Wipe the stains with a spongedipped in a mixture of water and mild dishwashing liquid (likeDawn). If you have a lot of stains and they won't come off, wipe

on a paint deglosser with a lint-free cloth or abrasive pad so themastic will adhere. Deglosser is available at paint centers andhome centers for $8 for I qt.

Then mask off the countertops and any upper cabinets thatwill have tile installed along the side. Leave a ll4-in.gap betweenthe wall and the tape for the tile (Photo 1). Cover the countertopswith newspaper or a drop cloth.

Tirrn off power to the outlets in the wall and remove the coverplates. Make sure the power is off with a noncontact voltagedetector ($15 at home centers). Place outlet extenders ($1.80 athome centers) in the outlet boxes. The National Electrical Coderequires extenders when the boxes are more than l/4 in. behindthe wall surface. It's easier to put in extenders now and cut tile tofit around them than to add them later ifthe tile opening isn't bigenough. Set the extenders in place as a guide for placing the tile.You'll remove them later for grouting.

On the wall that backs your range, measure down from the topof the countertop backsplash a distance that's equal to three orfour full rows of tile (to avoid cutting the tile) and make a mark.Screw a scrap piece of wood (the ledger board) to the wall at themark between the cabinets.

The area between the range and the vent hood is usually thelargest space on the wall-and certainly the most seen by thecooks in the house-so it'll serve as your starting point forinstalling the tile. Make a centerline on the wall halfi,vay between

cAST A C0NcRETE F0UNTAIN: TILE Y0UR BAcKSpLASH 115

'l mart a centerline between the upper cabinets so the titesI witt be centered under the vent hood. Screw a ledger to the

wa[[ to support the tile after you pull out the stove.

C Spreaa a thin layer of mastic adhesive on the wal[, starting4 at the centerline. Spread just enough adhesive for two orthree sheets at a time so the adhesive doesn't dry before you

set the tile.

115 PRo-JEcrs sloo To $150

the cabinets and under the vent hood (Photo 1). Measure fromthe centerline to the cabinets. If you'll have to cut tile to fit, move

the centerline slightly so you'll only have to cut the mesh backing(at least on one side).

lnstall and sealthe tileUsing a 3/i6-in. trowel, scoop some mastic adhesive out of the tub

and put it on the wall (no technique involved here!). Spread the

mastic along the centerline, cutting in along the ledger board, vent

hood and upper cabinets (Photo 2). Then use broad strokes to fillin the middle. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to the wall to

spread the mastic thin-you should be able to see the layout lines

where the points of the trowel touch the wall. Have a water bucket

and sponge on hand to keep the trowel clean. Whenever the mas-

tic starts to harden on the trowel, wipe it off with the wet sponge.

Place plastic tile spacers on the ledger board and countertop

(Photo 3). This leaves a gap so the tiles don't sit directly on the

countertop (you'11 caulk the gap later).

Align the first tile sheet with the centerline, directly over

the spacers. Press it onto the wall with your hand. If the sheet

slides around and mastic comes through the joint lines, you're

applying the mastic too thick (remove the sheet, scrape off some

mastic and retrowei). Scrape out any mastic in the joints with a

utiliry knife.

Eyeball a 1/16-in. joint between sheets oftile (you don't need

spacers). After every two or three installed sheets, tap them into

the mastic with aboard and rubber mallet (Photo 3).

If tiles fall offthe sheets, dab a little mastic on the back and stick

them right back in place. The sheets aren't perfectly square, so you

may need to move individual tiles to keep joints lined up. Move the

tiles with your fingers or by sticking a utility knife blade in the joint

and turning the blade. If an entire sheet is crooked, place a grout

float (shown in Photo 5) over the tile and move the sheet. Youllhave about 20 minutes after installing the tile to fine-tune it.

Ifyou're lucky, you can fit the tile sheets under upper cabinets

and around outlets by cutting the mesh backing with a utilityknife. If not, you'Il have to cut the tile with a wet saw. Nippers and

grinders cause slate tiles (shown here) to shatter or crumble,

although you can use these tools on ceramic tile.

Slice the backing to the nearest full row of tile, install the sheet

around the outlet or next to the cabinet, then cut tiles with a wet

saw to fill the gaps (Photo 4). Cut the tiles while they're attached

to the sheet. Individuai tiles are too small to cut (the blade can

send them flying!).

Let the tile sit for at least 30 minutes, then apply a grout sealer

if you're using natural stone (like slate) or unglazed quarry tile.

The sealer keeps the grout from sticking to the tile (it's not needed

for nonporous tiles such as ceramic). Pour the sealer on a sponge,

then wipe on just enough to dampen the tiles.

Grout and clean the tileWalt 24 hours after installing the tile to add the grout. Pros

use a premium grout that has a consistent color and resists

stains better than standard grout. Since the backsplash willbe subject to splatters and stains from cooking and food prep,

spend the extra money for a premium grout. You can find or

special order it at home centers or tile stores. One brand is Prism

? t"O the tile into the mastic with a wood scrap and a rubberrJ mallet. Stand back, look at the tiles and straighten anycrooked ones.

(custombuildingproducts.com; 800-272-8786). Sanded groutwill also work and will save you a few bucks.

Mix the grout with water until it reaches mashed-potato con-sistency, then put some on the tile with a grout float. Work thegrout into the joints by moving the float diagonally over the tiles(Photo 5). Hold the grout float at a 45-degree angle to the tile.Scrape offexcess grout with the float after thejoints are filled.

Ten minutes after grouting, wipe the grout off the surface ofthe tiles with a damp sponge. If the grout pulls out of the joints,wait another l0 minutes for it to harden. Continually rinse thesponge in a bucket of water and wipe the tiles until they're clean.

These slate tiles have a lot of crevices that retain grout. Whilemost of the grout comes off the tiles with the wet sponge, somewon't. Most pro installers leave some grout in slate and other

Cut tile sheets to the nearest full row to fit around outlets,then filt the gaps with tites cut on a wet saw.

lxffil,

f,, nrl. the grout out of the joints at inside corners and along\f the bottom with a utility knife so you can fitt them withcautk. Keep the dull side of the blade atong the countertop.

rough-surface tile-it's just part of the deal with some types ofnatural stone. But if you want the tile completely clean, removethe grout from individual tiles with a toothbrush.

After cleaning the tile, use a utility knife to rake the grout outof the joints along the bottom of the backsplash and in the insidecorners (Photo 6). These expansion joints allow the wall to movewithout cracking the grout.

Two hours after grouting, wipe the haze off the tiles withmicrofiber cloths. Then caulk the expansion joints with latexcaulk. Use a colored caulk that closely matches the grout.

After seven days, sponge on a grout sealer to protect the groutagainst stains.

That's itl Now every time your family and friends gather inyour kitchen, they'll be impressed with your custom backsplash.

t

ti q'i ltl$,1

0

f, force grout into the joints with a float. Scrape off excessJ grout by moving the float diagonally across the tile.

TrLE YouR BAcKSpLASH 117

ii:. !ri:i Ji:i ,

many bathrooms, a picture or a small shelf hangs

above the toilet. But you can make better use of that

space by building an attractive cabinet that offers

about three times as much storage as a typical medicine cabinet.

The following pages will show you how to build it. The simplejoinery and store-bought doors make this a great project for the

woodworking novice. Assembling the crown and base is a bittricky, but the how-to photos will show you how to do that.

The total materials bill for this cabinet was $140. You'll need a

miter saw to cut the trim. A table saw and a brad nailer will save

time, but you can make all the cuts with a circular saw and drive

the nails by hand ifyou prefer.

The height and width of your cabinet may differ slightly from

these measurements, depending on the bifold doors available at

your home center. So choose your doors first and then alter the

lengths of the sides and the top, bottom and middle shelves if

118 PRoJEcrs $roo ro $1so

rc

#"e*;!

necessary. Bifold closet doors are sold as a pair,

usually joined by hinges. Each of these doors measured

l1-15/16 in. wide, and theywere cut to length.

The easy-to-install hinges are available online (see the Materi-

als list on p. I l9). All the other tools and materials, including the

cabinet doors, are available at home centers. You may not find the

exact crown and base moldings used here, but most home centers

carry a similar profile. Any 2-ll4-in. crown molding is appropri-

ate for this project. "Base cap" molding was used for the base. For

a more contemporary look, you could skip the crown and base

altogether, since they're purely decorative.

Build a basic boxCut the plywood parts to size. The dimensions are given in the

Cutting list (p. 119). To make the short end cuts, use the home-

made guide shown in Photo 3 and described on p. I 19- 120.

Assemble the cabinet box with glue and screws,followed by wood dowels for extra strength (photo 1).You can buy long dowels and cut them into shortpieces, but dowels precut and fluted for woodworkingare easier to work with. This assembly method isquick and easy and gives strong results. But becausethe method requires lots of wood filler to hide the fas-teners, it's for painted work only. If you want to usestain and a clear finish, biscuits or pocket screws are a

better choice.

Drill l/8-in. pilot and countersinkholes for the screws using a drill bit thatdoes both at once ($6). Attach the top, bot-tom and cleats to one side, then add theother side. Mark the middle shelf positionon the sides, slip it into place and screw it(there's no need for glue).

Before you drill the dowel holes, makesure the box is square by taking diagonalmeasurements; equal measurementsmeans the box is square. Ifnecessary, screwa strip of plywood diagonally across theback ofthe box to hold it square. For clean,

splinter-free holes, drill the dowel holeswith a 3/8-in. brad-point bit (95; below),making the holes l/8 in. deeper than thelength of the dowels. That way, you cansink the dowels below the surface of theplywood and fill the holes with wood filler.

With the box completed, drill holes for the adjustableshelfsupports (Photo 2) using a brad-point drill bit.Most shelf supports require a l/4-in. hole.

Cut and hang the doorsCut the doors using a saw guide (Photo 3). To make a

guide, screw a straight 1x3 to a 14 x l8-in. scrap of3/4-in. plywood. Then run your saw along the lx3 tocut off the excess plywood and create a guide that

Cutting list

Materials listITEM

1 1-15/16"-wide bifol.d ctoset doors

4' xI' x3/4" birch pLywood

2-1 / 4" -wide crown mo[ding

3/4"-tatt base cap mol.ding

1-1/lr" screws

1 -5l8" screws

3/8" dowets

1-112" finish nail.s

Hingesr

Shelf supports

Spray primer

Spray paint

Wood gtue

Wood fitler

QTY.

l pair

1

5'

5'

1 box

1 box

16

1 box

1+

8

1 can

2 cans

KEY

A

B

c

D

E

F

G

H

QTY. SIZE & DESCRIPTION

2 B" x 32-5lB" sides

3 8" x22-1/2" top, bottomand middte shetf

2 3" x22-1/2" top and bottom cleats

2 8" x22-1/4" adjustabte shetves

2 11-15/16" x 32-318" doors

2 9" x 24" crown and base frames3 2-1/4" -wide crown mol.ding

lcut to fit)

3 3/1+"-tatt base mo[ding {cut to fit}

Except for moldings, alL parts are j/4-in. plywood.

*To order hinges, coll (S0O) 383-0130 or go to wwhotdware.con.This project used No. A03180T8 G9 PK. For other styles andfinishes, do a search for "A03180."

BRAD.POINT BIT

BATHROOM cABINET 119

steers your saw perfectly straight and indicates the exact path ofthe cut. Simply mark the doors, align the guide with the marks,

ciamp it in place and cut.

Screw the hinges to the doors 3 in. from the ends (Photo 4).

The fronts and backs of louvered doors look similar, so check

twice before you drill. Stand the doors against the cabinet, setting

them on spacers to create a l/8-in. gap at the bottom. The gap

between the doors should also be about l/8 in. Clamp each door

into position and screw the hinges into place (Photo 5). If the

doors don't align perfectly because the box is slightly out ofsquare, don't worry; you can square the box when you har-rg it.

The hinges also adjust up or down l/16 in.

Add the crown and baseMeasure the top of the cabinet (including the doors) and cut the

plywood crown and base frames to that size. Set your miter saw to

45 degrees and cut the crown molding with it upside down and

leaning against the fence (Photo 6). Also miter a "tester" section ofmolding to help you position the sidepieces when you nail them

into place. To avoid splitting, predrill nail holes. With the sides

in place, add the front piece of crown molding. Cut it slightly

long and then "shave" one end with your miter saw until it fitsperfectly. Add the molding to the base frame the same way. Screw

both the crown and the base to the cabinet (Photo 8).

A guick finishBrushing paint onto louvered doors is slow, fussy work, but you

can avoid that hassle by using spray primer and paint. First,

remove the doors and hinges. Cover the dowels, nails and screw

heads with wood filler and sand the filler smooth.

Also fill any voids in the plpvood's edges. Sand the

Buil.ding cabinet doors is a tricky, time-con-

suming job. But you can avoid aL[ that fussy

work by buying ctoset doors and cutting them

to fit the cabinet.

cabinet box, crown, base and doors with 120-grit sandpaper.

Spray all the parts with a white stain-blocking primer (such as

BIN, Cover Stain or KILZ). When the primer dries, sand it lightlywith a fine sanding sponge. Finally, spray on at least two coats ofspray paint. High-gloss paint will accentuate even tiny surface

flaws, so consider using satin or matte.

To hang the cabinet, locate studs and drive two 3-in. screws

through the top.cleat. Then rehang the doors. Close the doors

to check their fit. Nudge the bottom of the cabinet left orright to square it and align the doors. Then drive screws

through the bottom cleat.

L[i

ir..

$ Assemble the cabinet box with gtue and screws. Then add

"$* glued dowels for rock-solid joints. Drill splinter-free dowelholes with a brad-point bit.

$ oritt shetf support holes using a scrap of pegboard to posi-f* tion the holes. Wrap masking tape around the dritt bit so

you don't drilt alt the way through.

PROJECTS s100 T0 s150

Q Cut the doors using a homemade saw guide to ensure ard straight cut. Lay the door face down so any splinteringtakes place on the back of the door.

f Position the doors carefully and clamp them to the cabinet.q/ Then screw the hinges to the cabinet from inside for a fool-proof, exact fit.

Mount the hinges on the doors. A self-centering drilt bitpositions the screw holes for perfectly placed hinges.

f, Cut the crown molding with it upside down and leaninglld against the fence. Clamp a block to the fence so you canhold the molding firmly against it.

ff Nail the crown to the frame. Nait the mitered corners only ild necessary. If they fit tight and are perfectty atigned. let the

glue alone hold them together.

fi! Center the crown on the cabinet and fasten it with screwsl[J driven from the inside. Then center the cabinet on the baseand attach it the same way.

BATHROOM CABINET 121

Custom

closetorgantzer

ost bedroom closets suffer from bare minimal organi-

zation-stuff on the floor; a long, overloaded closet

rod; and a precariously stacked, sag-

ging shelf. You don't have to put up with it. This

simple shelving system is designed to clean up

some of that clutter. It provides a home forshoes; several cubbies for loose clothing, folded

shirts, sweaters or small items; and a deeper

(16-in.-wide) top shelfto house the stuffthatkeeps

falling off the narrow shelf. Besides the storage

space it provides, the center tower stiffens the

shelfabove it as well as the clothes rod, since you

use two shorter rods rather than a long one.

The following pages show you how to cut and

assemble this shelving system from a single

sheet ofplywood (for a 6-ft-long closet), includ-ing how to mount drawer slides for the shoe

trays. Birch pllvood was used because it's rela-

tively inexpensive ($35 to $40 per 4 x 8-ft. sheet)

yet takes a nice finish. The edges are faced with1x2 maple ($40) for strength and a more attrac-

tive appearance. The materials for this project

cost $ 125 at a home center.

The key tool for this project is a circular saw

with a cutting guide for cutting the plywood

into nice straight pieces (Photo 1). An air-powered brad nailer or finish nailer makes the assembly go much

faster, and a miter saw helps produce clean cuts. But neither is

absolutely necessary. Ifyou're handy with a circular saw, you can

cut and assemble this project in about a day. But allow another

four hours or so for sanding and finishing.

Cut the birch plywood to sizeFirst, rip the plywood into three 15-314in. by 8-ft. pieces (Photo

I ), then cut the sides and shelves from these with a shorter cuttingguide. For an average-size closet-6 ft. wide with a 5- l/2-ft.-hightop shelf-you can cut all the sides and shelves from one piece of

314-in. plywood. If yoirmake the shelving wider,you'llhave to settle for fewer

shelves/trays or buy addi-

tional plywood. Be sure to

support the plywood so the pieces won't fall after

you complete a cut, and use a guide to keep the cuts perfectly

straight. You can make your cutting guides (a long and a short

one) from the factory edges of U2-in. particleboard. Use a ply-

wood blade in a circular saw to minimize splintering. Still, cut

slowly on the crosscuts, and make sure the good side of the ply-

wood is down-the plir,vood blade makes a big difference, but the

thin veneer will splinter if you rush the cut.

Mark and cut the baseboard profile on the plywood sides,

using a profile gauge ($8; Photo 2) or a trim scrap to transfer the

shape. If you can remove the baseboard easilS you could cut itrather than the plywood and reinstall it later. Either method

works fine.

Attach the maple edgesGlue and nail the side 1x2s (G) to the best-looking side of the

plywood (so it faces out), holding them flush with the front

o

tip t.* sure thepegboard you buyhas square sides.

122 PRoJEcrs $1 oo ro $1 5o

Figure ACl*s*t orq*nizer

Materials listITEM OTY.

4'x 8'x 3/4" birchptywood [$40) 1

3/1+" x1-112" xB'mapte [$40) 6

3/4" x3-112" x8'No. 2 pine l$3) 1

3/4" x3-112" x12'mapte [$201 1

14" bottom-mountdrawer sLides [$16) 3

2'x4'x1/4" peg-board [$5J 1

1/4" shetf supportpins ($21 8

1-1ltr" and 1-112"brads for a brad naiter

ll eolusrner-e

I I sHELvEs

) I SUPPoRTI zPlN)( ,/4&t /-)- |rtFXED ffi I

sHELF llll I

llll^l

MIII )ll_".g:*,

A

to-'rltz

... vA"

1o-1:t2

N

FOR SIDETOP SHELFSUPPORTS

&

'to-'tlzI

6rr-Yt-gl+" '''-..

BEVEL ALL ENDS 45 DEGREES

edge (Photo 3). Be sure to use 1-l/4-in. brads here so you don'tnail completely through the side. You can use l-l/2-in. bradseverywhere else.

Then attach the front lx2s (F). These 1x2s should be flushwith the bottom of the sides, but 314 in. short of the top.The 1x2s will overlap the edge slightly becaus e 314-in.plywoodis slightly less than a full 314 in. thick. Keep the overlap tothe inside.

Lay out the locations for the drawer slides and the fixedcenter shelf before assembling the cabinet-the l2-in. widthis a tight fit for a drill. Use the dimensions in Photo 4 andFigure A for spacing. You can vaty any of these measurementsto better fit your shoes or other items you want to store. Thentake the drawer slides apart and mount them on the tower sides(Photo 4). Remember that one side of each pair is a mirrorimage of the other.

To position the shelf support pins for the two adjustableshelves, align the bottom ofthe 1/4-in. pegboard with the fixedshelf location, then drill mirror-image holes on the two sides(Photo 5). Mark the holes that you intend to use on thepegboard-it's all too easy to lose track when you flip thepegboard over to the second side. Use a brad point drill bit toprevent splintering, and place a bit stop or a piece oftape for a

SIZE & DESCRIPTION

15-3/4" x65-1I4" pl.ywood (sidesl

15-3/4" x 72" pLywood [top shetf)

15-3/4" x l2" ptywood lfixed shetf)

153/4" x 11-7l8" ptywood [adjustabte shetves)

15-3/4" x 11" pLywood (rotl-out shelvesl

3/ 4" x 1 -1 12" x 6t+- 1 I 2" maple lvertica t f ront trim]3 / 4" x 1 -1 /2" x 65-1 I t+" ma pLe (vertical. side tri ml

3/4" x 1-1/2" x 1t+-1/2" mapte (shetf fronts)3/4" x1-112" x11-TlB" mapte [shetf backs)

3/t+" x1-1/2" x 11" mapl.e Irott-outshel.f backsJ

3/4" x1-1/2" x 12" mapl.e fbase)

3/4" x3-112" x 12" pine Ibracingl314" x3-112" x 24" mapLe lside top sheLf

supports-not shown]

3lt" x3-1/2" x29-1/4" maple (reartop sheLf supports)

3lt " x 1-1 12" x 72" ma ple ltop sheLf edgel

3/4" x1-1/2" x15-3/4" mapl.e (top triml

Cutting listKEY QTY.

A2B1c1D2E3F2G2H6

J1

)2

K

L

M

N

P

o

2

3

1

5

2

CUST0t\4 CL05ET 0RGANIZER 123

5/8-in. hole depth (l/4-in. pegboard plus 3/8 in. deep in the

plywood). Most support pins require a l/4-in.-diameter hole,

but measure to make sure.

Cut the bevels and assemblethe shelvesCut the bevels in all the lx2 shelffronts, then glue and nail them

to the plywood shelves, keeping the bottoms flush (Photo 6).

Nail 1x2 backs (Jl and 12) onto the adjustable and roll-outshelves. Next, nail together the bracing (L) and the base piece (K),

which join the cabinet. And add the slides to the roll-out shelves

(Photo 7).

Assembling the shelving tower is straightforward (Photo

8). Position the L-shapedbracing at the top and braces

at the bottom, add glue tothe joints, then clamp and

nail. Because oi the slight lipwhere the 1x2 front trim (F)

overlaps the plywood, you'll

have to chisel out a 1/32-in.-

deep x 3/4-in.-wide notch so

the fixed shelf will fit tightly(Photo 9).

) U^,^" an outline of the baseboard with a profite gauge and,Cr using a jigsaw, cut out the pattern on the lower back sideof the two shelving sides. (See Figure A and Photo 4.)

Set the cabinet in the closetRemove the old closet shelving and position the new cabinet (this

one was centered). If you have carpeting, it's best to cut it out

under the cabinet for easier carpet replacement in the future(Photo 10). For the cleanest look, pull the carpet back from the

closet wall, cut out the padding and tack strip that fall under the

tip t",o your bradnai[er perpendicutarto the grain when-ever possibte so therectangular naiIheads wiL[ run withthe grain instead ofcutting across it.This makes themtess prominent.

121 PRoJEcrs $1 oo ro $1 bo

F)r,"r,ovERHANG

'- -t'-3/4'OFFSET

Q Cut the 1x2s to tength. Then gtue and nait them to the pty-rJ wood sides (Figure A) with 7-t/4-in. brads. Note the stight(1/32-in.) overhang atong the inside.

dffo narU the center and ro[[-out shelf locations using a framinge* rqurt.. Then mount half of each of the two-piec.- dr.,n.r.slides even with the 1x2 on each side.

Flip the pegboard when switching sides.

5 ilt,'{i;'l;.i11',1'11 .n. Radjustable shetf pins using a pegboard template.

fr nssemble the shelves and shetving braces using gluet# and 7-7/2-in. brads. Align the centers of each piece foraccurate positioning.

ft S.t the sides on edge, glue and clamp the braces (L) inu place and nail the assembly together with 1-1/2-in. brads.Make sure the braces are sguare to the sides.

lf nttactr the other halves of the stides to the roll-out shetvesf with 1/2-in. screws. Butt them against the front 1xZ.

cusroM cLosET oRGANtzER 125

I Chisel shallow slots in the 1x2 overhang, then slide thecenter shetf into place. Nail at the front, back and sides.

'Jt tf strove a 76 x 24-in.sheet of particleboard into the

I I snelf corners and scribe the angtes. Cut the angles and

use them as a pattern to trim the shelf. Nail the shelf to thesupports and cabinet top,

cabinet, and nail new tack strips around the cabinet position.

Then reposition the cabinet, push the carpet back against it and

cut the carpet.

Or, if you're not fussy about appearance inside the closet,

simply cut out the carpet and tack strip under the cabinet and

tack the loose carpet edges to the floor.

Plumb and level the cabinet, then screw it to the wall. Use

hollow wall anchors if you can't find the studs. The cabinet will be

firmly anchored by the upper shelf anyway.

Scribe the top shelf for a tiqht fitCloset shelves are tough to fit because the corners of the walls

are rarely square. To cut the shelf accurately, scribe a leftover

126 PRO-JEcrs gloo ro g150

{ f} Center the cabinet in the closet against the back watt.*V mark its position and cut the carpet out around it. Tack

the loose edges of carpet to the ftoor.

3/4" NOTCHATBOTH ENDS

SHELF EDGE -\

'! | Hot.rr the 1x2 shetf edge over the end supports and&C. nait it into ptace. Then trim the top of the cabinet with

a beveted 1x2.

l6-in.-wide piece of particleboard or plywood in both corners

(Photo ll) and use it for a template for cutting the ends of the

shelf. Then the shelf will drop right into place and rest on 1x4

supports nailed to the side walls and back wall. Make sure the

front of the shelf is flush with the front of the tower and nail it tothe top. If the back wall is wavy, you may have to scribe the back ofthe shelf to the wall and trim it to make the front flush. Then cut

and notch the front 1x2 and nail it to the shelf (Photo 12).

Lightly sand all the wood and apply a clear finish. \Mhen it's

dry, mix several shades of putty to get an exact match to yourwood and fill the nail holes. Add another coat offinish and let itdry. Screw on the ciothes rod brackets, aligning them with the

bottom ofthe lx4. Then pile on the clothes.

128 Summer sanctuary

133 Instat[ kitchen cabinetcrown motding

Insta[[ open basket units'f 34 Etegant and easy bookcase

:t38 Attractive barbecue cart

3"41 Watlpaper one wa[[

SPECIAL SECT]ON:

Stash insurance costs

1.42 Cut your home insurance bit[

127

Make a front and back for each planter box, then set themupright and join them with interlocking 2x4 pieces (photo 3),again attaching them from the inside. Although screwing fiomthe inside is more difficult, it enables you to avoid the cracks thatoften occur when pressure-treated wood is screwed near the ends.

Finally, screw on the bench supports (see Figure A).Stain the planter boxes and all the other pieces now to avoid

drips on the deck or patio. It's also easier to coat all the benchpieces on all four sides at this stage (Photo 4).

Construct the benchesClamp the front and one of the sides of the bench to a square

edge. Clamp the first set of spacers and the first 2x4 slat to thefront piece, then drive two 3-in. screws through the slat and thespacer into the fiont piece. Continue fastening, clamping the slats inposition to keep them aligned before screwing them in (Photo 5).

) nssemble the front and back of the planters againsth a square, Use spacer blocks to align the ptanter boxcorners perfectly.

Stain the bench and trellis parts and the completed planterboxes before assembly to save time and mess.

'\

f,, S"t the benches on the bench supports. then fasten thetV planter boxes to the bench ends.

\ri

f Ct.rp the bench front and bench end against a squarer/ corner. Screw the bench pieces together from the back tokeep fasteners hidden.

Q Stana the front and back up, then attach the sides, screw-rJ ing through the planter box corners. predrill to avoid sptits.

t!|*ait}

SUMN4ER SANcTUARY 131

7 Shim the planter boxes to [eve[ the benches. Install hiddentegs to hold the planter [eve[, then remove the shims.

fl S.t"* the right and teft top rail.s to the posts. Mark theY port spacinifirst to keep the posts ptumb.

Check to make sure the bench stays flat as you assemble it. Toe-

screw the bench ends to the front of the bench, then drive two

screws into the end ofeach slat (see Figure A).

Assemblethe arborPut the benches in place flush with the back of the planter boxes

(Photo 6). Screw the benches and planter boxes together with four

2'll2-in. screws, then screw on the planter supports inside the

planter box withthree2-112-in. screws each.

Level the planter boxes if necessary, adding hidden 2x2s or

2x4s for legs (Photo 7).

Screw support blocks to the backs of the planter boxes 3 in. in

from the corners, then attach the posts (Photo 8). Cut the posts

7 ft. long plus the distance (if any) the planter box was shimmed

up, so that they sit on the ground but are level with each other at

132 PRoJEcrs $1 so ro $2bo

Attach the posts to the sides of the support btocks withthree screws.

the top. Drive two additional screws into the posts from the inside

of the planter boxes, but don't worry if the boxes are still a little

wobbly-the top rail and cap lock everything together.

Set the top 2x4 rails on the ground next to the posts, leaving a

I-Il2-in. overhang at the outside ends. Mark the position of each

post on the top rail, then clamp the rails flush with the top of the

posts and fasten them with 3-in. screws to the posts and to each

other (Photo 9).

Nail on the lattice, overhanging it 1-l12 in. on the outside

edges and butting the pieces at the corner (Photo 10).

Screw on the 2x6 cap pieces to finish the structure, mitering

them at the inside corner and screwing the two sides together.

Drop in the plastic planter boxes ($10 each at home centers or

garden supply stores), fiIl with dirt, and plant with a mix of climb-

ing flowers and vines.

lit',4

4 f| Mark the bottom edge of lattice on each post, then nailIV ttre tattice with siding naits.

lnstall kitchen cabinetcrown moldingcrown molding comes in many profiles and sizes; this project used rope crownmolding (available at rockler.com, No.53639; $70 for g ft. of oak). If your faceframes aren't wide enough on top to nail the molding to, nail strips of wood to thetop edge to provide a naiiing surface.

A raised corner cabinet can create a challenge where the moldings on eachside butts into it. For an attractive finish, hold the upper part of the crown moldingback a few inches, but extend the thin rope molding portion so it butts into thecorner cabinet.

Position and mark each piece of crown molding as you work your way around thekitchen. Make sma[[ notches in the top corners of the face frames so the moldingslie flat against the sides of the cabinets when installed.

Remove the cabinet hardware, then cut out the rails where you want tocreate an open cabinet. A fine-tooth putl saw ($18 at home centers) workswell for removing the dividers, since it ties flat against the cabinet frameas it cuts. Sand the area to create a smooth surface.

Cut the crown molding by ptacing it upsidedown and securing it at the correct angle witha ctamp and wood scrap.

x-i'The "Base l8" baskets installed here (available at rockler.com, No.47527; $225 for three) come with two side tracks that could be cutnarrower to accommodate cabinets ranging in width from 15-7lg in.

to 17-718 in. "Base l5"baskets fit cabinets with an inside width ofI2-718 in. to J.5-718 in. Measure carefully, cut the basket tracks to width,then install them as shown.

J ',.

,lit-,.,

Cut the tracks to the proper width, thenlevel them in both directions and screwthem to the sides of the cabinet.

f.\lala.\a:\:'t:llH

5UIV1N4ER SANCTUARY; INSTALL KITCHEN CABINET CROWN I\4OLDINGi INSTALL oPEN BASKET UNITS 133

\-/

his is one of those rare woodworking projects that has itall: high style at a low cost, and fast, easy construction

that delivers sturdy, lasting results. This bookcase design

will make the job faster and easier. All the materials are at

home centers (see the Materials list, p. 135). You may not findthe solid wood panel used for the bookshelf top (made from

is versatile, too. You can easily make itshorter or taller, wider or deeper. With a

little know-how, you can even adapt the

building methods to other projects; the fire-

place mantel shown here was built using

similar techniques.

You could save a few hours of work by

building just one bookcase, but there's a

financial incentive to build two. By mostly

using the plywood left over from the firstbookcase, you can get a second one for halfprice. The materials for one oak bookcase

will cost you about $200; two will cost about

$300. Ifyou choose cherry or birch, expect to

spend an extra $100 or more on materials.

You'll need a table saw and a miter saw

for this project. A pneumatic brad nailer

131 PRoJEcrs $1so ro $250

This cLassic Craftsman-style bookcase was buiLt using construction meth-

ods that any intermediatebuiLder can handLe: a

screw-together pLywood

shelf trimmed with stripsof soLid wood. There's no

fancy joinery-no dadoes,

biscuits or doweLs. And

that simpticity aLso makes

this a quick project. You

can easity build a pair ol

bookcases in one weekend and apply the finish the fotlowing weekend.

Figure ASimple bookcaseWith this simple design, yolcan easity alter the dimensionsto suit your needs. This book-case is 60 in. ta[[, 11 in. deepand 33-t/2 in. wide.

TOP314" x11" x33-112"

TOP MOLDING318" x314"

/rSLEEPER

314"x 1-112"x29"

Materlals llstITEM

REAR SIDE STILE314" x 2-114" x59-114"

QTY.

1

1

1*

7*

3/4" x 4'x 8' ptywood (shetvesl

1/2" x 4' x 8' pLywood lsidesl1/4" xt' x8'pl.ywood Iback)

1x2 x 6' sotid wood lshe[f raits,front and side stites)

1x3 x 6' sotid wood [archedraits, rear side stitesl

1x12 x3' gLued panet ltop)

Wood gtue, No. 8 x 2" screws,No. 6 x 3/4" screws, 1-3l4" finishnai[s

*To buitd two bookcases, double thesequantities.

Solid wood thicknesses and widths givenare nominal. Actual thickness is 3/4 in.Aduat widths are 7/2 in. Iess.

3+

1*

ARCHED FRONT RAIL3I4" x2-112" x2a-112"

^-""r"","::::^' '/314" x2-112" x5-112" S|DE STTLE314" x1-112"

x5g-114"

glued-together boards). You could use oak stair tread materialor glue boards together instead. Also, the home center may notcarry the board widths listed here, but you can easily rip widerboards to width.

Cut the plywood partsTo get started, rip the plywood parts to width on a table saw.

If you have a small shop and cutting full sheets is difficult, cut theparts slightly oversized with a circular saw and then trim themon the table saw. Rip two f-in.-wide planks of 3/4-in. plywood(for the shelves) and two from the l/2-in. plywood (for thesides). Then cut them to length. To make the crosscuts with a

miter saw, use a stop block (Photo 1).

Next, drill the screw holes in the sides using a 3132-in.bit(Photo 2). Measuring from the bottom, mark the screw holes at3 -3 I 8, 16-7 I 8, 26-7 I 8, 37 -5 I 8, 48-3i 8 and 58- l/8 in. Position theholes 1 in. from the edges so the screw heads will be covered by thestiles later.

Sand all the plywood parts before assembly to avoid awkwardinside-corner sanding later. Plywood usually requires only a lightsanding with 150-grit paper. But watch for shallow dents orscratches that need a little extra sanding. And be careful not tosand through the micro-thin veneer along the edges.

ELEGANT AND EASY BOoKCASE 135

{ crosscutI the parts

quickly andaccuratelyusing a stopblock. The partsare too wide tocut in one pass,

so flip theptank over afterthe first cutand make asecond cut.

2:n'*.mark the screw

locations anddritl throughboth sides atonce. This cutsmeasuring andmarking time,especialty ifyou're buitdingtwo bookcases.

Q S.t.* the sides to the shelves using ptywood spacers to hotd the shelves inr, preclse posltron.

136 PRoJEcrs $150 ro s25o

Assemble the caseWhen you screw the sides to the shelves, use

plywood spacers to eliminate measuring errors

and out-of-square shelves (Photo 3). Before

you cut the spacers, measure the thickness ofthe shelves. Although they're cut from 3/4-in.

plywood, you'll probably find that they're actu-

ally a hair thinner than 314 in. To compensate,

simply cut your spacers a bit longer (your 12-in.

spacer may actually be 1,2-111,6 in. long,for example).

Inspect the sides before assembly and orientthem so the best-looking veneer faces the out-

side of the case. Drill 3132-in. pilot holes in the

shelves using the side holes you drilled earlier as

a guide. Also drill countersinks for the screw

heads. "Pilot" bits that drill a pilot hole and

countersink in one step cost about $5. Screw all

the shelves to one side, then add the other side.

Don't use glue. The screws alone are plentystrong, and any squeezed-out glue would pre-

vent the plywood from absorbing stain later.

With all the shelves screwed into place,

add the back. Measure the case from corner

to corner in both directions; equal diagonal

measurements means the case is square. Set the

back in position and use a straightedge to markthe locations of the shelves. Fasten the back

with screws rather than nails. That way, you

can remove the back later to make finishingmuch easier.

Cut arched railsAlthough straight rails would look good, arches

are cut in the top and bottom rails for a more

elegant look. If you want curved rails, cut the

top and bottom rails 28-518 in. long (you'll trimthem to final length later). To mark the curves

on the front arches, screw two blocks to a long

scrap 35-7l8 in. apart. Bend a 36-in. metal

straightedge between the blocks. Align the

straightedge with the corners ofthe rail (Photo

4). To mark the side rails, use the bottom of a

5-gallon bucket (or any circle that's about 10 in.

in diameter).

If you end up with a small hump or two,

smooth them with sandpaper. For a perfect arc,

use the cutout as a sanding block (Photo 5). Cut

80-grit sandpaper into l-in.-wide strips and

apply a light coat of spray adhesive ($6) totheir backs.

Next, cut the stiles to length, but don't cut

the rails to length just yet. Before you attach any

rails or stiles to the case, position the archedbottom rails on the case sides and use them tomark arcs. Cut these arcs with a jigsaw.

Add thetrim and topFasten the rails and stiles following thissequence: Attach both of the side stiles alongthe front of the case. Align your nails with theshelves so they don't poke into the case. Thenadd one front stile. Set one front rail in place.

Set the other front stile in place to check thelength of the rail. If the length is right, cut theother raiis to identical length. Attach the frontrails and the second front stile. Don't worry ifthe rails and stiles aren't quite flush; you can

sand them flush later. Next, add the side railsand the rear side stiles (Photo 6).

Two to four nails should be adequate foreach part, although you may need more ifthe rail or stile is badly bowed. The glue willprovide plenty of strength regardless of howmany nails you use.

Allow the glue to set for an hour before yousand all the rails and stiles using a randomorbital sander. Start with a 100-grit disc to sandflush uneven joints and remove any shailowscratches. Then switch to a 150-grit disc.

To attach the top, glue 3/4-in. plywoodsleepers to the top shelf as shown in Figure A.Then predrill and screw the top in place. Thetop molding is simply 3/8-in.-thick stripscut from leftover scraps. Miter the corners andglue the strips in place, again using as few nailsas possible.

Finish the bookcaseUnscrew the bookcase's back for easier finish-ing. This bookcase was finished with stain andthree coats of polyurethane. With all the sur-faces sanded to 150-grit, one coat of Minwaxred oak stain was applied. Use a satin sheen for a

clear finish. But because three coats of satin can

look like a cloudy sheet of plastic over thewood, begin with two coats of gloss, sandinglightly with a 320-grit sanding sponge betweencoats. Fill naii holes with color-matched woodputty after the first coat. After the second coat,add a coat of satin polyurethane. After settingthe bookcase in place, drive one 2-l l2-in. screw

through the back and into a wall stud to prevent

the bookcase from tipping forward.

l- Mark arch-r* es on thefront rails usinga simple arc jigmade fromwood scrapsand a metalstraightedge.Cut the archeswith a jigsaw.

f, Sand outJ bumps orwaves in thearches usingthe cutout.Stick sandpaperto the cutoutwith sprayadhesive.

6::lr;:'trim to the pty-wood case. Use

as few nails aspossible-justenough to holdthe parts inptace while theglue sets.

ELEGANT AND EASY BOOKCASE 137

Attractive

barbecart e

' his wooden barbecue cart is the perfect: place for parking food, drinks and

' cooking equipment when you'regrilling and entertaining. Fill it up at the back

door, roll it to the grill and then roll the finished

meal to the table. When you're done, just cover

it up with a standard grill cover and roll it out

ofsight.With angles and hidden fasteners, the design

looks like a complicated woodworking project.

But the angles are all l0 degrees, the fasteners

are all standard deck screws, and the construc-

tion is simple enough that you can build itin a day, even if you don't have much wood-

working experience.

Getting startedThe cart is mad e from 5 I 4x6 cedar deck boards ripped to 3 - I I 2 in.wide, but you can use other exterior-grade woods like ash, qpress

or pine. The 5/4 boards (actual thickness I in.) work great because

they're strong, relatively lightweight and inexpensive, but the

basic plan can be adapted to 3/4-in.- or 1-l/2-in.-thick wood by

increasing or decreasing the length ofthe end support (E).

Select straight, dry pieces from the lumberyard. Home centers

sell cedar "green," which means it's not fully dry and may shrink,

so if you can, let your pieces sit for a few weeks before cutting

them. Buy a few extra pieces so you can avoid knots and splits.

The cost of all the materials and a cover was $ 150. You'lI need a

miter saw, a drill, a jigsaw or circular saw to cut the tapers in

the handles and legs, and a table saw (although you can get by

without the table saw if you use standard 3-112-in. wood).

All materials are available at home centers except the spoked

wheels (available online at northerntool.com, item No. 155124;

$10). You can substitute lawn mower wheels (available fromhome centers for $10).

The sides are mirror imagesRip l/2 in. offone edge of the 5/4 deckboards, then flip them over

and rip them all3-ll2 in. wide. Cut the pieces to length, planning

the cuts so the best sides face out. Set the miter saw at 10 degrees

for all the angle cuts. Assemble the side frames next to each other

(Photo 1) to avoid accidentally making the same side twice.

138 PRoJEcrs $1 so ro $2so

each other to avoid makingscrew the frames together.

,l Lav out the side frames next toI t*o of the same side. Glue and

Figure ABarbecue Materials list

ITEM QTY.

5/4 x 6 x10' cedardeck boards 1 1

8"-diameter wheels z

2'x 1"-diameter dowel 1

2'x 3/8"-diameter dowel 1

5/16" x 4" machine boltslfor wheel axfel 2

5/16" nuts 2

5/16" washers 1+

Exterior wood glue

1 -5/8" exterior screws 2 tbs.

2" exterior screws I tb.

1O-DEGREEBEVEL

1O-DEGREEMITERS

17-112"

IO-DEGBEEMITER t

lO.DEGREEMITER

Overa[[ dimensions:34" high x 44-t/2" [ong x 27" wide

Mark the side rail, handle and leg locations with a Speed Square set

to I 0 degrees. Align and space the pieces carefully to ensure that the topof the cart is perfectly level when the cart is put together. Note that thehandles are set 3/4 in. down from the top ofthe legs to create a ll4-in.reveal. Predrill with a No. 7 countersink bit, and screw through the side

rail and handle into the legs so no screws are visible on the outside ofthecart. To avoid a slippery, gluey mess during assembly, fit everythingtogether and predrill the holes first, then apply the glue and screw thepieces together. Drill the holes for the wheel bolts and for the towel bar.Use a l-in. Forstner bit ($10 at home centers) for the towel bar holes.

Construct thetop and shelfThe support fiames hold the cart together, forming the base for the topand shelf and joining the two sides. Use plenty of glue and two 2-in.screws at each corner to join the side and end support pieces (Photo 2).

Assemble the rails and stiles for the top and shelf with the best sides

facing down. Glue and clamp them together on the worktable. Centerthe support frames on the undersides of the top and shelf, using pieces

of 514 cedar as spacers on the sides (Photo 3). Fasten with four screws

Cutting listKEY OTY.

A2B2c2D2

E

F

G

H

J

K

L

M

N

P

SIZE & DESCRIPTION

44" x3-112" handles Imeasure top edgel

34" x3-1/2" rear legs

32" x3-1/2" front legs

33-1/4" x3-1/2" side rail. {measurebottom edgel

1+ 16" x3-1/2" end support

4 32"x1"sidesupports

4 13" x 3-112" rail.s

4 35" x 3-112" stltes

6 28" x 3-112" stais

B 2-3/8" x 1" cornerbraces

1 18-5/8" x 1"-diameter towel bar

2 20" x3-1/2" bottom end caps

2 18" x3-1/2" top end caps

6 1-3/4" x 3/8"-diameter pegs

Note: AII parts are 1" thick

ATTRAcTtvE BARBEcUE CART 139

J euita simpte, identical frames for the top -{ "E and shelf. Be sure to predrill ruo., corinrensrNK BtrwrHso you don't split the side supports. sroP FoRALL scREw HoLEs

! Ct"rp the raits and stites for the top and shetf together,J then gtue and screw on the support frames to hold themtogether. Center the support frame.

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.'....,!!.\

;it;..4l**-

f Comptete the cart by attaching end caps to the cornerJ braces through predrilled, countersunk holes.

.ffii:F.@

L Srr"* the top to the side frames, driving a[[ screws fromtl tn. inside so they won't be visible. Dont forget to instatlthe towel bar!

per side, predrilling all the holes with a countersink bit to avoid

splitting the wood.

Set the slats into the top and shelf assemblies, space them

evenly (roughly 5/8-in. gaps) and glue and screw them from

underneath with two screws for each slat.

Put allthe parts togetherSet the top upside down on the worktable. Spread glue along both

edges ofthe support frame, then position the sides against the top

and clamp them at the front of the cart. Place the towel bar into

the holes in the handles, then fasten the top to the sides (Photo 4).

Set the cart right side up, spread glue along the top of the side

rails, then fasten the shelfto the side rails.

To avoid visible screws on the end caps, glue, predrill holes and

screw corner braces to the handles and side rails (Photo 5). Tip

your table saw blade to 10 degrees and rip a bevel along the top

edge of the top end cap so it fits snugly under the top. The other

140 PRoJECTS gr 5o ro g25o

end caps tilt in the other direction and fit tightly-no rippingrequired. Glue the end caps before screwing them tight.

Use machine bolts for the wheel axles, sizing them so they fittightly (note that 5/16-in. bolts may not work for every type ofwheel). Place a washer on both sides ofthe leg and tighten the

bolts securely.

Cut 3/8-in. dowels into 1-3l4-in. lengths for the pegs along the

side. Drill a 3/8-in.-diameter hole at a slight angle through the

center of a scrap piece of 5/4 x 4, then use that piece as a template

for drilling the holes for the pegs so they all match. Mark the I -in.

point on each peg as a stop point, then glue them in.

Finish the cart with a clear exterior penetrating oil or sand

thoroughly and apply an exterior urethane or spar varnish.

Cover the cart when not in use. You can find a standard water-

proof grill cover measuring at least 4 ft. long for $25 and up at

home centers.

Wallpaper o eyou haven't visited a wall-covering retailer lately, you'remissing a treat. With the revived popularity of wall-paper, stores are offering an expanded range of choices.

The prices of some of these wallpapers may knock yoursocks offtoo.

But take heart. You don't have to cover every wall to make a

dramatic change. Papering only a single wall will do, and that'llmake some of those fine, expensive papers or fabrics affordable.It'll also be faster, easier and more convenient than papering anentire room. This is an especially good solution for a room withplain walls, slim baseboards and window trim, and no built-ins.You create instant character.

Begin by taking a photo of your existing room and measuringits dimensions. Take these with you to the interior design orwall-covering store. Ask a specialist to help sort through optionsthat'll work weil with your existing furnishings. The specialistwill also help you pick the best wall for the new paper and

KIMURASILKSCREENWALLPAPER

estimate the amountto order.

!T, *ct

$ I 50 to $250.

Be sure to fill holes and smooth your wall before beginning.Rough spots might show through the paper. Then seal the wallsurface with an acrylic primer. It dries hard and smooth. Thisallows you to slide the paper a bit more easily to tighten seams.

The wallpaper shown here cost $122 for a double roll; suppliescost another $50.

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Wallpaper on one wa(l adds drama to a dutt room with less effort and expense than covering the whole room.It also lets you choose a bold pattern that woutd be overpowering on four wa[s.

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,"'T;:LT.Hfi'n|.1l1"* \with uncut edges and other designerpapers. Always check the hanging instruc-tions and ask the dealer about the difficultylevel. Ifyou're a novice paperhanger or fall in lovewith a super-expensive paper, consider hiring a pro.The extra cost should be modest for a single wall, from

ATTRACTIVE BARBEcUE cART; WALLPAPER ONE WALL 111

Cut your home insurance bitlou might think your homeowner's insurance is like your

property taxes-a fixed expense that you just have to

pay. The good news is you can actually trim hundreds

off your insurance bill. Your insurance company determines the

cost ofyour annual premium by calculating your chances of hav-

ing a loss and how much it'll have to pay if you make a claim.

Using these tips, you can make your home a better risk and reduce

your premiums by 10 to 45 percent. How much you can save

depends on where you live, your insurance company's rate struc-

ture and risk philosophy, your individual policy and yourinsurer's list of available discounts. Call your agent to see which

tips will reduce your rates.

Increase your deductibteRaising your deductibte-the portion of a claim that comes

out of your pocket-is the easiest way to cut your insurance

cost. Bumping your deductibte f rom $500 to $1,000 can save

you up to 25 percent on your premium. Raising it to $2,500

can save you 30 percent, and raising it to $5,000 can save you

35 percent or more. The downside, of course, is that you'L[ be

stuck with a bigger bitL if you fite a ctaim. But consider this: lfyou raise your deductible from $500 to $2,500 and your pre-

mium decreases by $500 a year, your savings wi[[ cover the

deductibLe increase in four years. lf you pui those savings

aside, you'[L have a cash cushion to pay the higher deductibl.e.

And after the first four years, you't[ save $500 every year

without any extra financiaI risk.

Replace washer hoses

Washing machine hoses that leak or

even burst are a common cause of

water damage. Some insurance com-panies offer a discount of up to 1 0 per-

cent on your premiums if you reptace

the rubber hoses on your washingmachine with no-burst staintess steel

hoses ($20 a pair at home centers and

hardware storesl. ln 10 minutes, you

couLd save five times the cost of the

hoses on your next bitL. This is a smart

Beef up yourgange doorStrong winds often wreck garage

doors. So a tougher door might cut

your premiums by 10 percent. You

have two options: lnstatL a new

hurricane-resistant garage door,

or use a retrofit kit with horizontat

and verticaI bracing to strengthenthe existing door. A new doubte-bay

residentiaI hurricane garage door

can cost as much as $1,200. A

retrofit sotution for a doubte-doorgarage wi[[ run about $500 and can

be ordered from securedoor.comor special-ordered from Lowe's. lfyou have a $1,000 premium, your

payback would be about five years.

move even if yourinsurer doesn't offera discount.

Shorter no-burst hoses

for toitets and faucetscost $6 each.

Get a tist ofdiscountslnsurance companies offerdiscounts to homeowners forimprovements that maketheir homes a better risk.These inctude safety featuressuch as indoor sprinklers,smoke detectors and deadbott locks. Discount programs

change frequentty. lf you

haven't spoken to your agent

within the past year or you've

made a major home improve-ment, you may be missing out

on significant discounts.

Situations that raise rates* A swimming pool lespeciatty with a diving boardl,

a hot tub or a trampoline.s A dangerous condition on your property Itikecracked steps or a Low spot that coLtects water or

iceJ that could injure someone. lf the injured party

fiLes a ctaim with his or her insurance company,

your rates wiL[ rise.

f, Having a pit butL, RottweiLer, Doberman Pinscher

or wotf mix. These breeds affect your insurancerates because dog bites cost insurers about $310mittion annuaL[y.

112 spEctAL sECTroN: sLASH tNSURANcE c0srs

Choosefire-resistantsidinglf you're instatting new siding,instaLI Ctass A-rated f ire-resistantmateriats such as metat, fiber-cement shingtes and ctapboards,and.masonry. Using these materi-ats can reduce your premium by

up to 20 percent, especiatly in dryareas of the country that are moresusceptibte to fire damage.

CertainTeed Corp,

Monitor yo u r credit scoreYour credit score has a huge impact on your insurance costs. A poorcredit score coutd increase your insurance premium by 35 to 40percent or possibly resutt in the canceltation of your poLicy. 0n theother hand, if your credit score has improved since your poticy wasissued, have your agent refigure your premium based on yourimproved credit rating. Ask your insurer when it last updated yourcredit score records and monitor your credit report each year bygetting a free copy from the top three credit reporting companies atannualcreditreport.com, or catt [877) 322-8229 and request yourfree credit report.

Insta [[ tro u b le detectorsSome companies will. discount yourpremium 2 to 5 percent if you havesafeguards in place to warn of pl.umb-ing failures. Battery-operated or pl.ug-

in temperature sensors ($20 to $60depending on the type) detect furnacebreakdowns and the resutting frozenand bursting pipes. Leak detectors[$15 to $200 depending on the modeLl

use wiretess orwired sensors to soundan aLarm Ibattery-operated model.sl,or can be wired to an automatic shut-off vatve on your main water [ine whenwater touches the sensor. For purchase info, searchonline for "leak detectors" and "temperature sensors."

Inform your agent about upgndeslnsurance companies [ike to insure homes with newer p[umbingand etectricaI systems as wetl as burglar atarms and sprinkter sys-tems because these features reduce the risk of f ire and water dam-age. lf you make upgrades to any of these systems in an otderhome, let your insurance agent know.

o

ffiDrop additionat structures coverageMost insurers assume your house isn't the onty buitd-ing on your property. lf you don't have a stand-atoneshed, garage or other structure on your property,remove this coverage and save yoursetf 5 percent.

Ihink twice before filing a claimEvery time you fil.e a claim, you risk higher insurancerates in the future. So in the long run, f il.ing a cl.aim cancost you more than you receive in a payout. paylng for a

smalter loss yoursetf witt atmost atways cost less thanthe premium increase you't[ face later. A good rute ofthumb is don't f ite a ctaim if it's worth Less than $1,000over your deductibte. StatisticaLLy, if you fite two ctaimsin a three-year period, or make ctaims reLated to main-tenance issues such as a chronic leak or some missingshingtes, you risk triggering a rate hike or worse. your

insurance company may even drop you compteteLy.Just inquiring about a ctaim lwithout even fiLing itl)cou[d raise your rates.

spECtAL sECTt0N: SLASH tNSURANcE cosrs 113

fr[rtsF];,am"a{F#ilThis leak detector($13) is availableat home centersand online.

I

If you live in a hurricane-prone area, wind-resistant roofing materials with a higher windrating can lower your premium.

Chooseatough roofStandard asphal.t shingtes take a beatingduring wind and haiI storms. So insurancecompanies offer big discounts (up to 45 per-cent) for tougher materials. Before youchoose a new roof, tatk to your agent to learnabout the exact discounts for materiats otherthan standard asphatt. ln most cases, metaIroofing gives you the [argest discount, but italso costs two to four times as much as stan-dard aspha[t shingles. For a less expensiveroof that stil'[ quaLifies for a discount, con-sider heavier-grade Class 4 modif ied asphaLtand shake shingtes, which come with a 30- to50-year Limited warranty and may be [essexpensive than reptacing a storm-damaged roof.