bruce trail club guide

Edition 27 1-0

Laura Secord MonumentQueenston Heights

Niagara Section

Queenston to Grimsby (maps 1 to 5)This section of the Bruce Trail is managed by members of the Niagara Bruce Trail Club.

Distance to Tobermory: 892.2 km

The southern terminus of the Bruce Trail is located at the stone cairn, close to the car park at the Niagara Parkway entrance to Queenston Heights Park. Near Niagara Falls, the park is perched on the west side of a deep gorge carved over the centuries by the Niagara River. In the park, the hiker will see a monument to Major General Sir Isaac Brock, who was killed here during the War of 1812. Along the Trail toward Hamilton, there are many other reminders of the war.

The Niagara Peninsula is known as the fruitland of Ontario and is also the area where most of Ontario’s wines are produced by both small and large wineries.

On the way through St. Catharines and Thorold, a hiker will pass all four of the Welland Canals, from the first canal, with its narrow wooden locks, to the fourth canal, with its massive twin locks. Here, on this major international waterway, ships can be found from all over the world.

The Trail begins to travel through a woodland belt and across farmland before heading northward along the ancient shores of Lake Iroquois.

You are responsible for your own safety. Before using the Trail please read Section III Trail Information.

Historical Notes

The pioneer settlers, making their way from the United States, named the creeks they crossed by the distance they had covered from the Niagara River; hence the names Twelve Mile Creek, Fifteen Mile Creek, etc.

Laura SecordLegend says that Laura Secord, the wife of a Canadian militia officer, was responsible for a British/Canadian victory in the War of 1812. In 1813, Queenston had been occupied by the Americans, and U.S officers were being billeted in the Secord home. Laura apparently overheard plans for an American attack and decided to take action. She is reputed to have travelled on foot overnight, from Queenston to the British headquarters at DeCew House (a distance of over 30 km), in order to warn the British. Because of her warning, the British were well prepared, and scored a major victory at Beaver Dams.

Butler’s Barracks Named after John Butler, a Loyalist settler who commanded troops during the Seven Years’ War and the American Revolution, Butler’s Barracks represents almost 200 years of continuous military operations. Following the War of 1812, the barracks provided shelter and storage for the British troops out of range of the American guns at Fort Niagara. By the 1850s, an extensive building complex had been constructed. After Confederation, Butler’s Barracks grew into a major training centre for the Canadian Army and was renamed Camp Niagara. Five of the original buildings have been restored and historical markers guide the visitors on a walking tour through the grounds, which are open from May to October.

Navy Hall In 1765, British troops built naval barracks on the Niagara River near Newark (the present Niagara-on-the-Lake). Over the years, Navy Hall became a large military complex and supply depot for the British Forts on the Upper Great Lakes. In 1792, after Lieutenant Governor Simcoe chose Newark as the capital of Upper Canada, he converted one of the buildings into his residence. This building later became a mess hall for the officers of Fort George. Navy Hall is the only structure to survive the War of 1812. The dock site offers an excellent view of Fort Niagara across the river.

Fort George After the Treaty of Paris (1783) handed Fort Niagara to the Americans, the British built Fort George facing Fort Niagara in order to defend Upper Canada. It was completed in 1802 and served as headquarters for the British Regular Army, the Canadian Militia and the British Indian Department. It protected both the strategically important transportation route on the Niagara River and Newark, the capital of Upper Canada. Like many forts of its time, Fort George consisted of an outer perimeter of earthen and log bastions. Inside were a guardhouse, log blockhouses, a hospital, kitchens, workshops, barracks and a stone powder magazine. During the War of 1812, the fort was captured and destroyed by the Americans in May 1813. In December of the same year, after its reconstruction, it was recaptured by the British. After the war it fell into disrepair and was abandoned in favour of Butler’s Barracks and Fort Mississauga. It was reconstructed as an historic site in the 1930s to represent theperiod at the eve of the War of 1812. Inside the fort are historic displays and during the summer months, staff in period dress reenact infantry and artillery drills.

Woodend - km 13.7The United Empire Loyalist family of Peter Lampman fled New York State in 1779 to establish what became a 650-hectare grant on the top of a hill known as St. Anthony’s Nose, now known as Woodend. During the War of 1812, a three gun battery occupied its heights, commanding a fine sweep of the lands below. The poet Archibald Lampman, grandson of the original settler, was a frequent visitor and wrote several poems about his grandfather’s estate. Parts of the original two houses were incorporated into the present structure, built in 1931 and ‘32. The Niagara Peninsula Conservation Authority now manages it as a 40-hectare parcel of land incorporating recreational and picnic facilities. There is ample parking.

Morningstar Mill - km 33.5Operated by Wilson Morningstar at the end of the 19th century, this former mill is now a museum. Limited parking is available.

Ball’s Falls - km 55.0Many old buildings in the conservation area have been restored to their original condition. In addition to picnic facilities, there is a large parking lot (paid parking in the summer). The Upper and Lower Falls, formed by Twenty Mile Creek tumbling over the Escarpment, can be spectacular when the water flow is heavy.

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Forty Mile Creek, Grimsby Photo: Scott Langley Sherman Falls, Ancaster Creek Photo: Melissa Steinovitz

Iroquoia Section

Grimsby to Kelso (maps 5 to 11)

This section of the Bruce Trail is managed by members of the Iroquoia Bruce Trail Club.

Distance to Niagara: 80.0 km


This section of the Trail begins by the ancient shoreline of Lake Iroquois. With a little imagination, hikers can visualize the postglacial lakeshore that formed a horseshoe around the western end of present day Lake Ontario. While the Trail passes through a densely populated area, for the most part hikers will be walking on a woodland path with only occasional glimpses of the surrounding urban growth. The western end of Lake Ontario also has an abundance of waterfalls splashing over the Escarpment: Albion, Buttermilk, Tiffany, Sherman, Webster’s, Tew’s, and Borer’s. Most of these waterfalls can be seen in a full day of hiking across the Dundas Valley. From the Escarpment, the hiker gets great views of the industrial land of the Golden Horseshoe and much of Lake Ontario. There is drama too, where the Escarpment rises majestically from the farmland at Mount Nemo, Rattlesnake Point and Crawford Lake Conservation Area, where there is a rare meromictic lake and a prehistoric Native American site. Great views continue as the Trail then carries on northward to the ski runs at Kelso.

You are responsible for your own safety. Before using the Trail please read Section III Trail Information.

Historical Notes

Forty Mile Creek - km 0.0This is one of the first Loyalist settlement sites in the Niagara Peninsula. In the late 1780s, a Mr. Green bought 300 acres of land and used the power of the creek to operate a sawmill. Mrs. John Graves Simcoe wrote in her diary vivid descriptions of the area at the time of her visits in 1794 and 1796. In about 1800, John Beamer purchased the land from Mr. Green and built a dam above the falls to provide a regular source of waterpower for his sawmill and gristmill. Remains of the dam and other structures are still visible from the road bridge. Most of the roads up the Escarpment through Stoney Creek are named for pioneer settlers, although Fifty Rd is so called because of its distance in miles from Niagara-on-the-Lake.

Devil’s Punch Bowl - km 19.4Do not miss this spectacular sight, even though today the waterfalls are a mere trickle of their former selves. The bowl, about 34 m deep and 60 m across, is the result of water erosion during the recession of the glaciers from the Lake Ontario basin about 10,000 to 12,000 years ago. Erosion has exposed a magnificent sequence of geological strata from the lower shale beds to the resistant Lockport dolostone cap rock.

Albion Falls - 26.5This is one of the sites where Loyalist settlers developed the waterpower to run their mills. The village of Albion predated the first settlement in Hamilton by about two decades. Foundations of several mill structures can be seen from the road bridge on the side trail. Natural gas emerges from small fissures in nearby rocks.

Ancaster Creek - km 46.4 (Sherman Falls) Ancaster was an early Loyalist settlement. Power from the creek has been used to run several mills since Richard Hatt’s Red Mill of 1798.

The Hermitage - km 49.4Located in the Dundas Valley Conservation Area, the Hermitage ruin and the Gatehouse Museum are all that remain of this 1855 estate built by George Leith, second son of a Scottish baronet, on lands originally settled in 1826.

The Hermitage was used as a summer residence for much of its early history, but after George Leith’s death, the estate began to suffer from neglect. In 1902 Leith’s daughter, Alma Dick-Lauder, a writer and animal lover, took it over, with great plans

for its revitalization. But the decay continued, and to add to the difficulties, Mrs. Dick-Lauder’s fondness for animals got quite out of hand. All animals were allowed in the house and many a tale was told of cows, horses and sheep mingling with disconcerted guests in the drawing room.

The bizarre household continued until a ruinous fire gutted the house in 1934. But Mrs. Dick-Lauder did not leave; she continued to live in a temporary structure built within the shell until her death in 1942. In 1972, the Hamilton Conservation Authority purchased the property, stabilized the ruins and then opened the Gatehouse Lodge Museum (open weekends and holidays in the summer months). There can be found some objects from the excavation of the cellars in 1974, and a splendid model of the house.

Note: When hiking through any gateway entrance to Conservation Areas in Hamilton and Halton, be prepared to show your current BTC membership card to avoid having to pay an entrance fee. If you park at a conservation area in Hamilton and Halton, you will be required to pay the regular parking fee.

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Webster’s Falls, Spencer Gorge Photo: Melissa Steinovitz

Historical Notes - cont’d

Griffin House - km 49.4 (Mineral Springs Road)Griffin House was built in 1828. It was the home of Enerals Griffin, who is believed to have been a slave from Virginia who came to Canada via the underground railway. It stands as a testament to the bravery and determination of black men and women who journeyed to freedom in Southern Ontario by the Underground Railroad. Griffin House offers tours and black-history-related programs as part of the Black Heritage Network. For information, contact 905-546-2424 ext 7220 or [email protected]

The Town of Dundas - km 57.0The Town of Dundas, first settled in 1787, became an important mill town and major trading centre at the western end of Lake Ontario. After the completion of the Desjardins Canal in 1832, it briefly became a busy port with large boats carrying produce from its wharves to markets via Lake Ontario. The canal has long been gone. It started to silt up almost as soon as it was completed. The site of the old boat-turning basin is now a park and butterfly garden in the middle of the town.

Webster’s Falls - km 57.6 (via Webster’s Falls Side Trail)At Webster’s Falls, Spencer Creek tumbles over the Escarpment. In the early 1800s it was the industrial centre of Dundas, with no fewer than eight dam sites along the 3-mile stretch of water above the falls. The largest of the mills was the Ashbourne Flour Mill, built by Joseph Webster, just above the falls that were later to bear his family’s name.

The Calcium Pits - km 102.5Remaining today as a series of ponds, these abandoned pits are lined with a putty-like material called marl. Marl is a precipitate resulting from the dissolution of dolostone by acidic rain and surface water. It contains insoluble clay, calcium carbonate, ferric oxide and silicate. From the 1920s to the 1940s, marl was dug up, dried in kilns and used in whitewash, culvert tiles, and as an insecticide called Climax Bug Killer. The introduction of DDT in 1946 ended the business. Ruins of the insecticide plant are still visible at Twiss Rd.

Crawford Lake Conservation Area - km 105.5Perched on top of the Escarpment, Crawford Lake is surrounded by extensive woodlands, pristine wetlands and rugged dolostone cliffs. The lake, a meromictic lake, is ecologically unusual in that it is so deep in relation to its surface area that its water at the lower levels is never disturbed by wind or temperature changes. Without an annual turnover of water, there is little oxygen present in its depths and consequently very little bacterial activity. At the bottom, layers of sediment (called varves) build up year after year and, because they lie undisturbed, they provide an accurate record of the area’s human and natural history. The sediments, in fact, have been dated as far back as 1,000 years.

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Studies of the pollen content in the sediment have allowed scientists to trace periods of human settlement. Corn pollen found in the varves at one point indicated that an ancient settlement might lie near the lake, and a dig in 1973 led to the discovery of a 15th century Iroquoian village. Archaeologists found evidence of six longhouses, which were occupied by the Middleport tribe. In 1982, the Halton Region Conservation Authority began reconstruction of the village as a way of preserving the local native heritage.

A conservation centre and nature trails are accessible via the Bruce Trail and the Crawford Lake Side Trail.Historical Notes

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Flowering Cherry (Prunus Accolade), RBG Arboretum Photo: Scott Langley

Rasberry HouseRoyal Botanical Gardens(Arboretum)

Reconstructed Indian VillageCrawford LakeConservation Area Magnolia, RBG Arboretum Photo: Scott Langley

Located in the Arboretum of the Royal Botanical Gardens, Rasberry House is named for William Rasberry, a descendent of the Earl of Roseberry. He immigrated to Canada about 1830 and bought the property from the industrial entrepreneur James Crooks. Three generations of the Rasberry family farmed the land before 1943, when the Gardens acquired the property. It includes the famous lilac dell and many trails bordering Cootes Paradise.

The two-storey stucco house, built about 1860, has stone foundation walls with an adjacent tunnel drainage system, concrete insignia and a Palladian window over the front door. The Bruce Trail Conservancy restored the house, and since 1984 it has been the BTC offices and general store.

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Royal Botanical Gardens

Five display gardens, four nature sanctuaries and 32 km of nature trails span the Royal Botanical Gardens’ 1,100 ha (2,700 acres). See 100,000 spring bulbs, 250,000 iris blooms and the world’s largest lilac collection, or explore the ecologically sensitive wetlands, fields and forests of Cootes Paradise, Grindstone Valley, Rock Chapel and the Berry Tract. Hikers will appreciate the extensive network of trails that meander through woodland marsh, meadow and, in tandem with the Bruce Trail, along the Escarpment. Trail guides are available at RBG Centre, 680 Plains Rd W or from the Nature Interpretive Centre in the Arboretum. While at the Arboretum, don’t forget to visit Rasberry House, the headquarters of the Bruce Trail Conservancy. The Royal Botanical Gardens organizes many family-oriented festivals and events, and conducts courses on a wide variety of topics including growing and cooking with herbs, balcony gardening, identifying wildflowers and birds, flower arranging, and painting in an outdoor classroom. Check www.rbg.ca for the Gardens’ latest public program calendar and for exciting upcoming events.

For more information contact:Royal Botanical GardensBox 399, Hamilton, ON L8N 3H8Phone: 905 527-1158Fax: 905-577-0375Email: [email protected]

Open Monday to Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.Closed during Christmas and statutory holidays.

The Bruce Trail ConservancyP.O. Box 857Hamilton, ON. CanadaL8N 3N9Telephone: 905-529-6821 or 1-800-665-4453Fax: 905-529-6823Email: [email protected]

Rasberry House

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Enjoying the view, Kelso CA Photo: Beth Kümmling Trimming vegetation, Springle Property Photo: Rose-Mary Mitter Trail Maintenance, clearing winter deadfall Photo: Rose-Mary Mitter

Toronto Section

Kelso to Creditview Road (maps 11 to 14)

This section of the Bruce Trail is maintained by members of the Toronto Bruce Trail Club.



After passing under Highway 401, the Trail climbs the Escarpment near the Hilton Falls Conservation Area. It affords great views as it follows the Escarpment edge, crossing the Dufferin Quarry bridge with its interpretive display, and continuing to Limehouse Conservation Area with its interesting lime kilns. After a short section on Highway 7, it passes through the tranquil Scotsdale Farm property, through the spectacular Silver Creek Valley and into the Terra Cotta Conservation Area. The Trail now leaves the pronounced features of the Escarpment and begins to cross areas of glacial moraine.

You are responsible for your own safety. Before using the trail please read Section III - Trail Information.

Historical Notes

Hilton Falls via Hilton Falls Side Trail - km 1.2Historical accounts indicate that Edward Hilton was the first to build and operate a mill at the base of the falls. The mill was last operated around 1863, but the ruins are still evident today. The falls, which are particularly impressive in the spring, are accessible via the Hilton Falls Side Trail. A number of interpretive signs and a walkway down to the base of the falls have been developed by the Halton Region Conservation Authority.

Limehouse - km 20.9This area was a major source of lime for the early settlers of Ontario. Visible near the Trail are a number of lime kilns, a powder house and a quarry. The kilns were stoked with wood, loaded with dolostone from the quarry, and left to burn for several days. The resulting lime was removed and used for every possible construction job in early Upper Canada. The introduction of railroads and the rapid removal of the surrounding forest spelled doom for the flourishing business by the second decade of the 20th century.

Scotsdale Farm via Bennett Heritage Trail - km 29.4Scotsdale Farm was donated to the Ontario Heritage Foundation (now the Ontario Heritage Trust) by William and Violet Bennett in 1982. The 540-acre property includes Class I (provincially significant) wetlands, large areas of mature maple-beech upland forest and meadows. The Bennett Heritage Trail connects the main Trail to the farm buildings and a large parking lot.

The Credit Valley Footpath - km 38.7This trail follows the valley of the Credit River south from Terra Cotta to Georgetown through fields, forests, steep hillsides and the floodplain of the Credit River. The Footpath was originally developed in 1970 by the Credit Valley Trail Club as part of a proposal to link the Bruce Trail to Lake Ontario through the valley of the Credit River. Despite many years of effort it proved impossible to complete because permission to cross a number of essential properties could not be obtained.

This trail passes the site of an old First Nation burial ground and the interesting village of Glen Williams, with its many craft and antique stores. The route leads past the ruins of an old paper mill and dam and an historic plaque which describes early industry along the river. An impressive CNR railway bridge, built in the 1850s and attributed to Sir Casimir Gzowski, crosses the trail and the river. Further south in the valley are the remains of the Barber Mill Dynamo, an old hydro generating station which once supplied power to the paper mill upstream.

Terra Cotta - km 41.2Formerly named Salmonville, the village was located on the old wagon road to Oakville and saw much activity during the Crimean War, when great quantities of wheat from local farms were shipped down to Lake Ontario. The success of the brickworks, established by Simon Plewes to make use of the abundant deposits of terra cotta clay, inspired the village to change its name to Terra Cotta in 1904. Although Plewes’ mill is in ruins and the brick yards are operated by Brampton Brick, his house is still standing, as are a forge and an old inn. The village is accessible from Winston Churchill Boulevard and King St.

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Edition 27

Terra Cotta Conservation Area

Wolf Pond

Humber Heights LookoutDaisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) Photo: Charlie AtkinsonPhoto: Carol Sheppard

Historical Notes

The Dominion Road - km 8.8The Dominion Road was a pioneer settlement road which followed the Credit River through the Forks of the Credit valley, linking Brimstone to Cataract. Some of the homes in Brimstone were built originally as cottages for the quarrymen who worked in the nearby quarries which supplied much of the building stone for Toronto. The Whirlpool sandstone for both the old Toronto City Hall and the Provincial Parliament Buildings at Queen’s Park came from this area. Although the precise origins of the Dominion Road are buried in history, its demise is not. On April 12, 1912, a massive spring flood wreaked havoc in the valley. The road was washed out and so great was the destruction that it was never rebuilt. The old gravel track on which we hike today is all that remains.

Cataract Hydro - km 12.6In 1885, the mill at Cataract Falls was purchased by John Deagle, an inventive genius who was largely responsible for the economic growth in the area. He began experimenting with electricity and by 1899 generated power over eight kilometres of lines. Cataract streets blossomed with three experimental lights! The Cataract hydroelectric plant served the neighbouring community for over 50 years before it was closed in 1947.

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Caledon Hills Section

Creditview Road to Mono Centre (maps 14 to 19)

This section of the Bruce Trail is managed by members of the Caledon Hills Bruce Trail Club.



The Trail mostly follows the glacial deposits on top of the buried Escarpment, as it wanders through Caledon Hills and Hockley Valley. There is varied scenery and a number of steep climbs.

You are responsible for your own safety. Before you use the Trail please read Section III - Trail Information.

Great Horseshoe Curve - km 23.2On Escarpment Sideroad, east of Heart Lake Rd, was the crossing-point for the Toronto, Grey and Bruce Railway. Just to the south was the famous Great Horseshoe Curve. “In a distance of 10 km, the railroad had to climb 120 m to scale the Niagara Escarpment. To accomplish this feat, the railroad had to make use of a horseshoe curve. The Horseshoe was a curve of 140 m radius in 1.6 km of track, climbing 26 m yet traversing less than 400 m in a straight-line distance. It was here, in September 1907, that the Great Horseshoe wreck took place. The Exhibition Special travelling to Toronto left the track; seven passengers were killed and 114 injured”. The Great Horseshoe Wreck by Ralph Beaumont and James Filby.

The Dingle School - km 35.4This rural school, situated east of the Trail in the northwest corner of Albion Township, served its public from 1872 to 1950. A Brief History of the Dingle School by Howard S. Patterson indicates good attendance until a steady decline in the school population after 1910. This structure, typical of many in rural Ontario, is now a private dwelling.

Mono Township ForestWest of the Hockley Heights Side Trail on the 4th Line EHS is the Mono Township Forest, where planting was begun in 1926 on a 50-hectare wasteland. Twenty-five hectares were set aside for special school demonstration purposes. In all, some 60,000 trees have been planted by school children. “He who planteth a tree plants not for himself but for future generations.... The programme will never really be ended so long as these trees continue to grow and flourish. They stand in their beauty as evidence of the enduring success of the program.” The Green Hills of Mono by John A. Marshall.

Edition 27

Photo: Man Khun Chan

Black Bank Creek Photo: Frieda Baldwin

Dufferin Hi-Land Section

Mono Centre to Lavender (maps 19 to 21)

This section of the Bruce Trail is managed by members of the Dufferin Hi-Land Bruce Trail Club.



In the Dufferin Hi-Land Section, parts of the Trail follow the line of Hurontario St, which was the main road into the area in pioneer days, and linked Lake Ontario with Georgian Bay. Hurontario St, or Centre Rd as it is known in Mulmur Township, is today the main street of Port Credit, Brampton and Collingwood. It forms Highway 10 from Lakeshore Rd in Port Credit to Orangeville. Along the Trail, there are long views to the east and pleasant walks through mixed hardwood forests. Some of the territory is typical Southern Ontario farmland with a considerable portion given over to development of estate properties.

You are responsible for your own safety. Before using the Trail, please read Section III - Trail Information.

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Historical Notes

Whitfield - km 31.4Whitfield, dating from around 1832, was one of the earliest settlements in Mulmur Township. By the late 1860s its population was between 100 and 150. During the 1880s, the community was humming with activity; the village included saw and shingle mills, a quarry, a lime kiln, two blacksmith stores and two general stores.

Like similar hamlets, Whitfield began to decline at the beginning of the 20th century. Today little remains of the original village. A small pioneer cemetery beside Christ Church includes a monument dedicated to the original Whitfield pioneers. The remainder of the former town site has reverted to farmland.

Dufferin Light and Power Company - km 34.8The ruins of the old powerhouse in the southeast corner of the Pine River Provincial Fishing Area are almost all that remains of the Dufferin Light and Power Company. Nearby is the old flume that brought water from a dam which, when construction was started in 1909, was the largest of its kind in Ontario. Built

by Tom Huxtable of Horning’s Mills, the plant supplied power to Shelburne, Horning’s Mills and parts of Orangeville until 1911. The creation of The Ontario Hydro Electric Power Commission put this, and many of Ontario’s other private power plants, out of business. By 1923 hydroelectric power was no longer being produced along the Pine River.

Tweedybrook - km 41.5Near the Trail stands a cottage known as Tweedybrook, which belonged to the late Russell and Mary Tweedy. Mrs. Tweedy was President of the Dufferin Hi-Land Club from 1968 to 1971. In 1980, Mr. Tweedy signed his name in a notebook he had placed along the Trail on a covered shelf in a hardwood bush north of the cottage. By July 1990, that notebook was completely filled with signatures and comments by hikers from all over the world. A new notebook was placed on the shelf and hikers passing by this spot are invited to leave their signatures and comments for posterity. The old notebook is now in the Club’s archives.

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Highest Point on the Bruce Trail, John Haigh Side Trail Photo: Darci Lombard

Blue Mountains Section

Lavender to Craigleith (maps 22 to 24)

This section of the Trail is managed by members of the Blue Mountains Bruce Trail Club.



The terrain changes abruptly as the Trail enters the area known as the Blue Mountains. Here are Ontario’s best-known ski resorts, set among high bluffs interspersed with deep, wide valleys. From the Trail, there are excellent views of the rolling countryside and Nottawasaga Bay.

You are responsible for your own safety. Before using the Trail please read Section III - Trail Information.

Historical Notes

Petun IndiansAbout 350 years ago, the Petun, or Tionontati, First Nations Peoples lived in a chain of villages along the Escarpment between Creemore and Craigleith. They subsisted on agriculture (corn, beans, pumpkins, squash and tobacco) and lived in longhouses. In November of 1649, Seneca warriors killed most of the Petun. After years of wandering, the survivors were offered land in Kansas and Oklahoma, where some of their descendants live to this day. To the west of the Mission Side Trail is an archaeological site where a Petun Indian village was located.

Freedom RockJust to the east of the Nottawasaga Lookout and west of the Best Caves is Freedom Rock [21.4]. It is an outcrop broken off from the Escarpment, and is similar to the standing rock to the north at the Singhampton Caves [42.0]. What is so surprising at Freedom Rock is the collection of aphorisms that have been lovingly inscribed on the rock. In the tradition of 19th century liberals, many concern some aspect of freedom: access to the courts, the right to free education, and the need for land rationing; examples include: “To Be Fully Free One Must Farm”, and “Individuals Are Diamonds.” None is the careless graffiti of our age; each has been carefully chiselled into the stone. One is left to ponder the identity of the independent philosopher who felt the need to express himself on these rocks.

The Pretty River ValleyAs one enters this valley, thoughts of the mystical Scottish valley of Brigadoon come to mind. One hundred and sixty years ago Scotsmen from the Highlands and Lowlands came by oxcart and on foot into the valley. Even today, the land is rugged and inaccessible, and one wonders why settlers would choose to farm this land with such a forbidding prospect. It has been said that the hills reminded them of home, and it is possible that their native clannishness recognized an area which outsiders would not disturb. However, a more realistic explanation is that there had been a large settlement of Scots at Bowmore (now called Duntroon) from quite early in the 19th century.

The settlement of the Valley lasted with surprisingly few changes until well into the 20th century. The roads were always poor; many settlers were without electricity long after it had come to the surrounding area; the families were interrelated and very independent. Today, of course, everything has changed; the

22-3provincial government owns much of the land as a provincial park reserve, and other properties are retreats for city families. The hills and valleys are reverting to their natural state.

The Ski IndustryThe first use of the Blue Mountains for sport was the result of timber cutting at Osler Bluff. When the hills had been cleared, young people rode down them on sleighs. It was not until the 1930s that men consciously cut trees to make ski trails.

The purely recreational use of the Escarpment began when Collingwood skiers formed the Blue Mountain Ski Club on December 5, 1935. In 1940, Jozo Weider arrived as the ski professional and the Blue Mountain Ski Club was incorporated. By the 1960s, new affluence and more recreational time made Blue Mountain the most popular Canadian ski resort between the Rockies and the Laurentian Mountains. Since then, of course, the resort has expanded exponentially into a thriving four-season business.

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Raspberry, Seidle Property Photo: Alison Watt

Beaver Valley Section

Craigleith to Blantyre (maps 24 to 28)

This section of the Bruce Trail is built and maintained by members of the Beaver Valley Bruce Trail Club.



Leaving the Blue Mountains ski slopes, the Trail heads north to the large plateau of the Loree Forest above Nottawasaga Bay. The Trail then turns south on high ground overlooking the Beaver River, which has cut a deep wedge, known as a re-entant valley, into the Niagara Escarpment as it flows north to Georgian Bay. The Trail first follows the east rim of the Beaver Valley. Dolostone cliffs are plentiful; Kimberley Rock and Old Baldy stand out above the village of Kimberley. The valley, almost 10 km wide at its mouth, narrows quickly upstream of Eugenia Falls. Crossing to the west rim just above Hogg’s Falls, the Trail heads back down the valley. After following the Escarpment rim north, the Trail swings west toward the valley of the Bighead River to reach the ghost hamlet of Blantyre.

You are responsible for your own safety. Before using the Trail, please read Section III - Trail Information.

Historical Notes

Len Gertler Memorial Loree Forest - km 4.2A forest fire in September 1906 burned for several weeks atop the Escarpment. In the late 1940s, farmland on this plateau was reforested with pine and spruce.

Kolapore - km 23.8The village of Kolapore was once a busy mill centre. The first sawmill was built in 1865, and later, there were several others, some using the water power from the creek. The Kolapore Uplands, through which the Trail passes, was heavily logged in the 19th century to supply these mills. The village was located 1.2 km south of where the Trail crosses Grey County Rd 2.

Beaver ValleyThe Beaver River runs northeast through lush agricultural land where apple orchards flourish, entering Georgian Bay at Thornbury. Many of the first European settlers travelled by canoe in the 1850s up the Beaver River to Eugenia. Aboriginals and early settlers called the area Cuckoo Valley because of the many cuckoo birds nesting there. It is believed that the numerous beaver in the area, which eventually gave their name to the river and valley, had a role in the selection of the beaver as Canada’s emblem.

Kimberley - west of km 41.8This village, nestled in the Beaver Valley, had a post office in 1868. Also located there were sawmills, grist and flour mills, two hotels, three blacksmith shops and two woodworking shops. Around 1880, a small brickyard was opened on what is now the property of Talisman Resort. The village is accessible from the Bruce Trail by turning right along Grey County Rd 13 where the Trail meets the County Road at km 47.9.

Eugenia Falls - km 56.2Eugenia Falls, over the years, has witnessed two grand but unsuccessful money-making schemes. Shortly after it was discovered in 1852, Eugenia Falls was the site of an ill-fated gold rush. When a hunter noticed a glint of gold in the river, a mining boom ensued. At its peak, 200 men were striking claims and extracting rock. But the gold turned out to be iron pyrite (fool’s gold) and the men returned to their pioneer farms, their dreams of fabulous wealth shattered.

The early 1900s saw a second failed enterprise. The Georgian Bay Power Company bought the land and power rights. To create a sufficient fall, they built a tunnel 264 m long and had the river diverted through it. The outrageous scheme drove the company into bankruptcy, and the project was abandoned. The tunnel was blown up as a safety measure and all that remains today are the arches at both ends, visible beside the Trail at km 55.4.

Hogg’s Falls - km 63.3Hogg’s Falls has been called “Grey County’s best-kept secret.” Its seven metre cascade is a sheer and shimmering curtain of water over the rock face. It is named for William Hogg, a son of the illustrious Hogg family of 19th century York. (The Don River valley in the vicinity of Yonge St and York Mills Rd in Toronto is known as Hogg’s Hollow) He settled in the area in the 1870s, but today only faint traces remain of his long-ago mill. The site is now protected as a forest reserve, and the clear waters abound with Speckled Trout.

Epping - km 93.0Euphrasia Township’s first post office was located on Concession 4 in Epping. Not much remains of the original community, which was first settled in the 1840s. At the John Muir Epping Lookout on Grey County Rd 7 [93.0], there is an impressive view over the Beaver Valley as well as a plaque dedicated to John Muir, the famous conservationist. He was a founder and first president of the Sierra Club and lived in the Meaford area from 1864 to 1866.

Old Mail Road - km 100.1This pioneer road, originally called Old Government Road, and one of the earliest roads in the county, was in use by settlers from the 1830s to the 1850s as they made their way west from York and Lake Simcoe to the newly established townships of Osprey, Collingwood, Euphrasia and St. Vincent. In all likelihood the road followed an earlier aboriginal trail. It was formally established as a public road in 1846. The road was given its name because of the number of small post office villages along its length. It was in official use only until 1855 when the arrival of the railway in Collingwood put it out of official use. However it continued to be used by locals for many years after that. All that remains of the Old Mail Road that is clearly visible is the section that runs from Heathcote to Griersville. The Bruce Trail travels on that part of the Road from km 100.1 to km 101.1. However the Club has identified another short length of the Old Mail Road that has been recently incorporated into the Trail. (see pg. 25-1, km 19.1)

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Sydenham Section

Blantyre to Wiarton (maps 28 to 35)

This section is managed by members of the Sydenham Bruce Trail Club.



Leaving the almost deserted hamlet of Blantyre, the Trail crosses the valley of the Bighead River before turning north to follow the Escarpment to the Bayview Escarpment Nature Reserve. This is the crown jewel in a 69 km extension of the Bruce Trail, the longest in BTC history, completed in 2007 after years of work by many dedicated volunteers. From the Trail, spectacular views of Georgian Bay are plentiful. Near Owen Sound, the Sydenham River tumbles over Inglis Falls. Views of Owen Sound from the high cliffs of the Escarpment are followed by another waterfall - the Pottawatomi River going over Jones Falls. Continuing north, the Trail passes The Glen, Bass Lake, Slough of Despond, Skinner’s Bluff and Bruce’s Caves. These are all good areas for enjoying flora and fauna. The Sydenham section hosts provincially rare ferns such as the Hart’s Tongue Fern, which in many places cover the forest floor. At Wiarton, “The Gateway to the Bruce”, the Trail reaches Georgian Bay.

You are responsible for your own safety. Before you use the Trail please read Section III - Trail Information.

Historical Notes

Blantyre - km 0.0Blantyre, although a tiny hamlet today, was a bustling community in the 19th century. Local businesses included two blacksmith shops, a stone shop and two weaving establishments. James Paterson, Blantyre’s first merchant and postmaster, was appointed Grey County Warden in 1874.

Walters Falls - km 11.5John Walter founded Walters Falls in the mid 1850s. Settling around this river, John harnessed the waterpower to develop a sawmill, feed mill and woolen mill. The sawmill burned to the ground in 1984, but the woolen mill and feed mill still stand today. The feed mill continues to operate on waterpower.

Historical Notes continued on page 28-3

Edition 27

Glacial erratic, Lindenwood Property Photo: Ron Savage

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Historical Notes cont’d

Bayview Escarpment Nature Reserve / “Meaford Tank Range” - km 52.1The Nature Reserve consists of over 1100 acres of protected forests situated high on the Escarpment with magnificent views over the surrounding country, including the Meaford Land Forces Training Base and Georgian Bay. In 1942 the government of Canada obtained the private lands below and a small area above the Escarpment for the purpose of training soldiers in tank warfare and artillery gunnery. The 17,500 acres was ideal for this training since it incorporated dolostone cliffs, rolling open ground and dense bush. The “Meaford Training Area” quickly became known as “The Tank Range”.

Inglis Falls - km 91.7A Scottish immigrant, Peter Inglis, settled the area south of Owen Sound in 1845 when he took over a grist mill on the Sydenham River. By 1862, a larger, 100-barrel-a-day mill had been constructed to serve the farmers from Lion’s Head to Dundalk. A woolen mill, that produced tweeds, flannels and rainbow blankets, burned down in 1885 and again in 1901. The grist mill continued in operation until 1945. The family home, built around 1850, is all that remains today.

Bruce’s Caves - km 160.5A blue-blazed trail leads down 190 m to a small parking area and a park trail leading to Bruce’s Caves. Surrounded by woodlands of maple, beech and hemlock, these wave-cut caves are dramatic evidence of one of the natural forces creating the face of the Escarpment we see today. One of the caves has a rare roof crack. Below the cliffs, on the rocky slopes, grow a variety of ferns, including the rare Hart’s Tongue Fern. The caves are located on lands owned by the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority.

Edition 27

Overhang Point Photo: Scott Langley

Peninsula Section

Wiarton to Tobermory (maps 35 to 42)

This section of the Bruce Trail is managed by members of the Peninsula Bruce Trail Club.



Leaving Wiarton and heading toward the reservation of the Chippewas of Nawash Band at Cape Croker, the Trail follows the cliff line along Colpoy’s Bay. The white cliffs and green vegetation contrasting with the deep blue waters of the bay make a fine introduction to the beauties of the Bruce Peninsula. Remote hiking in the Peninsula Section should not be undertaken without experience and thorough preparation.

On through the villages of Hope Bay and Lion’s Head, there is pleasant walking on bush roads and difficult hiking on Escarpment cliffs. A variety of interesting geological formations and many displays of wildflowers, rare orchids and ferns attract the hiker.

The area from High Dump to Tobermory, along the shoreline of Georgian Bay, is the most remote and among the most scenic parts of the Bruce Trail. “Spectacular” and “breathtaking” describe the last 30 km on the high cliffs, overlooking the blue waters. Finally, the Trail reaches the cairn perched beside Tobermory’s picturesque harbour.

You are responsible for your own safety. Before you use the Trail please read Section III-Trail Information.

Historical Notes

The Corran - km 2.9The ruins are all that remain of this 17-room mansion north of Wiarton, overlooking Colpoy’s Bay. The mansion was built in 1882 by Alexander McNeill. It featured extensive rose gardens, prize shorthorn herds, an ice-house, a large library and conservatory, and the first electrical generating plant in the Bruce. Last occupied in 1960, it is now owned by the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority.

Cape Croker - km 31.6The Trail passes through the lands of the Nawash Band of the Chippewa Nation. This reserve, established in the 19th century,

is home to some 600 people. At Cape Croker Indian Park, the Nawash Band welcomes visitors to camp, picnic and hike. It is a great base from which to explore the Bruce Peninsula.

Glacial Potholes - km 45.1Located just inside the Hope Bay Forest Provincial Nature Reserve, these potholes are relics of the Ice Age, having been formed by the eddying action of meltwater running over the brim of the Escarpment. In this area, truly fine displays of trilliums flourish in May.

Hopeness - south of km 60.2On Hopeness Rd, on the Jack Poste Side Trail, stand the remains of Hopeness. The former schoolhouse has been converted into a community hall. This area thrived for a few years around the turn of the 20th Century, until logging, destructive forest fires and the lure of better farmland in the Canadian West greatly reduced the population of the Bruce Peninsula.

Smokey Head - km 94.8This Nature Reserve is a good example of the upland forests typical of this part of the Escarpment. There are still faint traces of old log slides where cut timber was pushed over the Escarpment edge and down to the beaches.

Devil’s Monument - km 110.6The Devil’s Monument, the largest flowerpot formation on the Bruce Peninsula, was formed 5,500 years ago by the wave action of glacial Lake Nipissing. Standing 14 m high, it is located between the Escarpment and the rugged Georgian Bay shoreline. The interpretive display is the kind donation of Mrs. J. Minhinnick, the former owner of the property. A staircase and blue blazes lead the hiker down the Escarpment to the flowerpot’s base and the water’s edge.

The Timber TradeThe Bruce Peninsula was extensively logged in the 19th century. Remains of the timber trade, such as “dumps” (areas where logs were stored and dropped off the Escarpment into log booms on Georgian Bay) can still be seen.

The National ParksBoth Bruce Peninsula National Park and the underwater Fathom Five National Marine Park were established in 1987. Make sure to stop at the Visitor Centre at km 165.3. It is a great place to learn about the Peninsula’s natural riches.

Overnight Rest Areas (ORA)

Bruce Trail volunteers maintain Overnight Rest Areas at several locations along the Peninsula section of the Bruce Trail. These ORA’s are for solo or small group through-hikers, providing a quiet rest after a long hike. They are NOT camping areas for destination hikers. Facilities for human waste disposal are very limited. No open fires are allowed.

There are many other areas designed for destination hikers including Cyprus Lake in Bruce Peninsula National Park, a number of private campgrounds and B&B’s that offer overnight facilities.

Natural Hazards - Be Advised - In addition to dangers common to all trail sections, the Bruce Peninsula has some unique ones. In many remote areas, cell phones may not reach a signal tower. There are also resident populations of black bears and Massasauga rattlesnakes. If you have an unlikely encounter, back off and give the animal a clear right-of-way. Obviously, it is best to keep dogs on a leash (as stipulated in The Bruce Trail Users’ Code). Poison ivy grows in abundance along many parts of this section of trail. Hikers should be able to identify the plant in all stages of growth.

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bruce trail club guide

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