britain - 01 01 2021

BRITAINH I STO RY HERITAGE TR AVE L CULTURE AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE FIND YOUR

WINA LUXURYSTAY IN

SUFFOLK

INSIDE NUMBER 10Prime Ministers past to present

AGATHA CHRISTIEA mysterious life

Scotland’s unique traditions

g yNorthumberland

Castle Country

www.britain-magazine.com

JAN/FEB 2021 £4.95

Kilts, clans & cèilidhs

CirencesterCotswolds gem

Fall in lovewith Liverpool

Shear delight:Historic wool towns

6

Mi�British Corner Shon a mission to heBritish food loverthe world satisfy tcravings for the pthey love and misthe UK.

Whether you’re ayearning for crumjust love a properBritish Corner Shmaking it easier thbefore to access qBritish products w

“Discovering British Corner Shop has been omy highlights this year! Fantastic service andrange of products” –Katie.

www.britishcornershop.co.uk

• Rated ‘excellent’ on Trustpilot

• Delivery to 140 countries

• Insured and tracked courier delivery

• Thousands of your favourite products

to choose from

From raising the flag on your own private

island to watching the stars over the sea from

your hot tub, Boutique Retreats specialise in

unique, stylish properties that celebrate their

surroundings whilst embracing luxurious living.

Whether you’re after something beautifully

bijou or large and luxurious, a long weekend

or a two-week summer holiday, our carefully

selected properties will take your breath away.

We know how good getaways should be.

boutique-retreats.co.uk

+44 (0)1872 553 491

[email protected]

STYLISH RETREATS IN THE UK’S HOTTEST LOCATIONS


As we bid a �rm farewellto 2020, we look ahead toa more hopeful year – onein which we’re lookingforward to rediscovering

some of our favourite haunts.In our two big features we celebrate

parts of the country that couldn’tbe more di�erent. First, the wildlybeautiful county of Northumberland,known for its mighty forti�cations –over 70 castle sites, as well as the ancientHadrian’s Wall (King of the castles, p14).Suitably forti�ed, we head down southto admire the cosy domestic architectureof Su�olk’s medieval wool towns, whosecottages list and lean into each otherat charmingly crooked angles (Sheardelight, p66).

Elsewhere in the issue, we visit acertain London townhouse with a veryfamous black door (First among equals,p33); delve into the curious life of thenation’s greatest crime novelist (�emystery of Christie, p60); and immerseourselves in Scotland’s weird andwonderful customs, from Hogmanay tohaggis-hurling (Scottish traditions, p48).

Enjoy the issue!

VOLUME 89 ISSUE 1

FEATURES

14 KING OF THE CASTLESFrom its brooding landscapes to its mighty castles,the beautiful northern county of Northumberlandleaves a lasting impression

24 NATIONAL TRUST ON SCREENThe National Trust’s Location Managers revisit someiconic film and TV moments in which their historicproperties have starred

33 FIRST AMONG EQUALSMarking the 300th aniversary of Robert Walpole’sappointment as first Prime Minister, we look intothe history of this prestigious post

40 CAPITAL ESCAPESStaying somewhere special has never felt so appealing.Read our pick of the best places to stay near London

48 SCOTTISH TRADITIONSThe Scots have some unique traditions that havestood the test of time, some better known thanothers. But what were their origins?

EDITOR'S LETTER

66

2

CONTENTS

@BRITAINMAGAZINE

BRITAINH I STO RY HERITAGE TR AVE L CULTURE AWARD WINNING MAGAZINE

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE

WINA LUXURYSTAY IN

SUFFOLK

INSIDENUMBER 10Pr me M nisterspast to present

AGATHACHRISTIEA mysterious life

Scotland’s unique traditions

g yNorthumberland

CastleCountry

Kilts, clans& cèilidhs

CirencesterCotswolds gem

Fall in lovewith Liverpool

Shear delight:Historic wool towns

PINTEREST/BRITAINMAGAZINE

@BRITAIN_MAGAZINE

FACEBOOK/BRITAINMAGAZINE

Natasha Foges,Editor

Lavenham, Suffolk

Cover image: Bamburgh Castle in Northumberland© Alan Copson/AWL ImagesPH

OTO

S: ©

IAN

DA

GN

ALL

CO

MPU

TIN

G/A

LAM

Y/N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

IMA

GES

/CH

RIS

LAC

EY

33

4 BRITAIN

REGULARS

6 LETTERSShare your stories and memories of Britain,and your thoughts on the magazine

9 THE BULLETINHistory of a London icon, portraits in theframe and a grand Tudor room unveiled

75 COMPETITIONYour chance to win a break for two at a luxury Suffolk hotel

77 CITY GUIDE: LIVERPOOLOnce the second city of the British Empire,today Liverpool is a thriving cultural centre

82 HIDDEN GEMS: SOMERLEYTON HALLThis splendid Victorian estate is the focusof a pioneering new conservation project

60


FEATURES

57 CIRENCESTERThe so-called Capital of the Cotswolds makesa beguiling introduction to the wider region

60 THE MYSTERY OF CHRISTIEThe famous crime novelist was the protagonist ofher own real-life mystery, which has never been solved

68 SHEAR DELIGHTTravel back in time with a visit to Suffolk’s pretty-as-a-picture wool towns, thriving centres of thewool trade in the Middle Ages

40

www.britain-magazine.comBRITAIN is the official magazine of

VisitBritain, the national tourism agency. BRITAIN is published by

The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place,

London SW3 3TQTel: 020 7349 3700

Email: [email protected] Editorial

Editor Natasha FogesArt Editor Clare White

Production Editor Jenny RoweAdvertising

Group Account Director Caroline WarrickGroup Advertising Manager Natasha Syed

Senior Sales Executive Sachin PatelPublishing

Chairman Paul DobsonPublisher Caroline ScottGroup Editor Steve Pill

Chief Financial Officer Vicki GavinDirector of Media James Dobson

MD Sales & Create Steve RossEA to Chairman Sarah Porter

Subs Marketing Manager Bret WeekesFor VisitBritain Sarah Wagner

Printed in England by William Gibbons LtdProduction All Points Media

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIESUSA and Canada:

www.britsubs.com/britainTel: 1-888-321-6378 (toll free)

Email: [email protected]: BRITAIN, PO Box 37518,

Boone, IA 50037-0518 (USA only); ORBRITAIN, 1415 Janette Avenue, Windsor,

Ontario N8X 1Z1 (Canada only)

UK and Rest of World:www.subscription.co.uk/chelsea/help

Tel: +44 (0) 1858 438 878Email: [email protected]

Post: BRITAIN, CDS Global, Sovereign Park,Market Harborough, LE16 9EF, UK

Annual subscription rates (6 issues)UK – £36; USA and Canada – US $41.70Australia and New Zealand – AUD $84

Rest of World – £42www.britain-magazine/subscribe

Back issueswww.chelseamagazines.com/shop

News distributionUSA and Canada: NPS Media Group,

2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484.UK and Rest of World: Seymour,

2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT, UKTel: +44 (0)20 7429 4000

BRITAIN (ISSN 2396-9210) (USPS 004-335)is published bi-monthly by

The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House,2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK

Distributed in the US by NPS Media Group, 2 CorporateDrive, Suite 945, Shelton, CT 06484. Periodicals postage

paid at Shelton, CT and other mailing offices.POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BRITAIN,

PO Box 37518, Boone, IA 50037-0518Publications Mail Agreement Number 41599077,

1415 Janette Ave, Windsor, ON N8X 1Z1. Canadian GSTRegistered Number 834045627 RT0001

© The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd., 2020. All rights reserved.Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be

reproduced without permission of the publishersThe information contained in BRITAIN has been published in good

faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy.However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices,opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability

for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on theinformation contained within this publication is hereby excluded.

The opinions expressed by contributors to BRITAIN are not necessarilythose of the publisher or VisitBritain.

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE

PHO

TOS:

© N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

IMA

GEE

S/N

ICK

GU

TT

RID

GE/

AN

T C

LAU

SEN

77

Did you know you can manage your subscription online?

Oversee your print and digital subscriptions online today simply by signing up at https://www.subscription.co.uk/chelsea/solo/. Stay up to date

with the latest issues, update your personal details, and even renew your subscription with just a click.

IN THIS ISSUE

E N G L A N D

I R E L A N D

S C O T L A N D

W A L E S

LIVERPOOL p77

EDINBURGH p48

CIRENCESTER p66

SOMERLEYTON HALL p82

LAVENHAM p68

CLIVEDEN HOUSE p40

BAMBURGH CASTLE p14

GREENWAY p60

DALLAS | NEW YORK | BEVERLY HILLS | SAN FRANCISCO | CHICAGO | PALM BEACHLONDON | PARIS | GENEVA | AMSTERDAM | HONG KONG

Always Accepting Quality Consignments in 40+ CategoriesImmediate Cash Advances Available

1.25 Million+ Online Bidder-Members

WORLD & ANCIENT COINSJanuary 20-21, 2021 | Dallas | Live & Online

Selected Highlights from Our NYINC 2021 Platinum Night® & Signature Auctions®

View the online catalog and bid at HA.com/3089

For a free appraisal, or to consign to an upcoming auction, contact:Jacco Scheper | Managing Director

+31-(0)30-6063944 | [email protected]

*images not to scale

From the Cape Coral Collection of European Crowns

Denmark: Frederick III Speciedaler 1667-GK

MS65 NGC

Swedish Possessions: Pomerania. Christina of Sweden Taler 1642

MS63 NGC

Ireland: James II Silver Proof Crown PR65 NGC

Additional Highlights

German States: Schleswig-Holstein-Gottorp. Peter III (as Duke Karl Peter Ulrich)

“Albertus” Taler 1753 S-P MS64 NGC

BABYLONIA. Alexandrine Empire. Ca. 328-311 BC. AV double-daric

NGC Choice AU★ 5/5 - 4/5, Fine Style

Mexico: Philip V gold Royal 8 Escudos 1715 Mo-J

MS63 NGC

Mezezius (AD 668-669). AV solidus

NGC Choice MS★ 5/5 - 5/5Great Britain: Henry III (1216-1272) gold Penny of 20 Pence ND (c. 1257)

MS63 NGC

Scotland: James VI (I of England) gold

20 Pounds 1575 XF40 NGC

From the Penn Collection

6 BRITAIN www.britain-magazine.com

Write to us with your thoughts on the magazine and memories of Britain

YOUR LETTERSSTAR LETTER IN PRAISE OF HIDDEN GEMS

WRITE TO US! By post: Letters, BRITAIN, The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ Via email: [email protected] FOLLOW US! Twitter: @BritainMagazine Instagram: @britain_magazine Facebook: www.facebook.com/BritainMagazine Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/britainmagazine

We are typical tourists in some ways; visiting the biggest attractions like the Tower of London, Windsor and Castle Howard. However, we much prefer the smaller, unsung houses. In that light, I’d like to give a ringing endorsement to a house which captivated us like no other, Little Moreton Hall. We went on a beautiful fall day and were swept away. Beginning with the walk in over the moat, into the courtyard and then the chapel [pictured] and �nally upstairs into the Long Gallery we spent hours happily examining every detail. The decorative woodwork outside and

interior friezes are stunning but I could never get enough of gazing out of the ancient Tudor glass in those many windows and endeavoring to take photos from them.

I’m writing today to reminisce but also to encourage others to seek out these smaller house museums once we can again travel.

These dear houses will need our funds more than ever once we’re sprung free! Norma and Peter Gekakis, Salem, Oregon, USA

PHO

TOS:

© H

ELEN

HO

TSO

N/A

LAM

Y/JA

MES

DO

BSO

N/N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

IMA

GES

A WEALTH OF MEMORIESHaving lived in London for 30 years, moving to Essex, Norfolk and Lincoln, we later emigrated to Australia. Over the years we revisited these cities and the Tower of London many times. In 2013 my �ve grandchildren were able to see London, this famous icon and their 90-year-old great-grandmother. My brother worked as an ecclesiastical tailor at the rear of Westminster Abbey and we visited Lincoln Cathedral and Bury St Edmunds where my mother was evacuated. On a canal boat holiday we went to Lockington Hall near Castle Donington where I was born. A very big “thank you” for evoking memories of my past.Pam Bickers, by email

PEN PALS FOR LIFEWhen I was 12 years old, back in 1952 I submitted my name for pen pals with the International Pen Friends. A schoolgirl named Muriel was assigned to pick a name from that list and we’ve been writing ever since! We never lost touch and when we both retired, the letters came frequently and longer.

In 1981 I journeyed to Derby and spent

A SPECIAL TRIBUTEAt the end of 2019 I lost my wife of 52 years. We (she from California, and I from South Africa) met on a coach tour of England and Scotland, and married in London a year later, on her next trip. Since then we have made frequent trips back visiting most of England (with forays into Wales and Scotland) by car, train or coach, using BRITAIN for ideas.

We usually �nd articles or photos of places we have been. The November issue [Vol 88 Issue 5] however seems a special tribute to

her memory, with so many reminders – from a mention in a reader’s letter of MinsterLovell and the Old Swan to Windsor, which we often visited from London, Avebury, Chatsworth House, the Uf�ngton White Horse and Lincoln, where, after many tries, we �nally got to stay for a few nights at the White Hart Hotel on what turned out to be our last trip together. But most poignant wasan article on the Doone Valley, which we drove slowly through, ending up with strawberry scones at the tea room and bridge [left] before continuing our travels westward. Thank you for all the memories.Brian Morgan, California, USA

three weeks with my dearest friend. She was the most wonderful tour guide and through her and her friends, I felt like we had seen the real England. Yes, we did a weekend in London and took in all the main attractions, but it was also wonderful to go grocery shopping with her, to visit the local attractions, to have �sh and chips at Skegness (Skegie, we called it). The absolute highlight of my life getting to meet and spend such quality time with such a wonderful friend.Shirley Johnson, Griswold, Iowa, USA

Our star letter wins The Time Traveller’s Guide to Regency Britain, a lively account of an exuberant era (£20). www.penguin.co.uk

MARISA ARNA J E W E L L E R Y S T U D I O

& G A L L E R Y

High Street, Thorpe-le-Soken, near Frinton-on-Sea, Essex, CO160EA, UK. Tel:01255-862355, email:[email protected]

w w w . m a r i s a a r n a . c o m

Contemporary jewel lery des ign with tradi t iona l craf tsmanshipMarisa Arna designs and makes her jewellery at her studio in Thorpe-le-Soken, near Frinton-on-Sea, in Essex. She originally set up her ceramic studio in 1997, making fine, thrown porcelain but since 2007 she has been working exclusively as a jeweller and goldsmith. Marisa uses traditional goldsmithing techniques, combined with some modern technology, to make her jewellery by hand and then also set the gemstones. Silver, gold or platinum, her work is long lasting and comfortable enough to enjoy wearing every day. There is a contemporary feel about Marisa’s designs, with different textures and contrasting finishes on the surface but also a timelessness. It can be a ready-to-wear, inexpensive necklace or a bespoke engagement ring, for a variety of budgets. Everyone is welcome to discuss a design with Marisa as a commission or just to treat themselves to something already made, from a changing selection of jewellery, in the gallery. When possible, Marisa can also melt and remodel old or heiloom, gold jewellery into new, more wearable pieces. Her new creations will themselves become heirlooms of the future, to

be enjoyed for many more years to come....To be the first to hear our news and take advantage of exclusive offers please

sign up to our newsletter on our website.

VISITING US :The studio & Gallery are usually open Tuesdays to Saturdays, 10am-5pm. Up-to-date information according to the current government covid-19 prevention guidlines can be found on our website. Even during the period that we are instructed to close the galllery to the public, we will be in the studio working so you can still reach us by phone, email or social media. Appointments can be arranged online. The jewellery gallery specialises in showcasing beautiful jewellery by UK-based designer-makers like Marisa. Generallly, to discuss a

commission with Marisa it is advisable to book an appointment. .

www.britain-magazine.com8 BRITAIN

703.941.6455 • www.CelticJourneys.us • Email: [email protected]

SCOTLAND

British Isles Scotland: Dumfries and Galloway

England: Hadrian’s Wall, Lake District Wales: Snowdonia National Park, Welsh Castles Ireland: Dublin, the magnificent Neolithic site at Knowth in Bru Na Boinne, Belfast May 7-20, 2021 • 13 Nights • $5,795

18th Annual Outlander Tour® Based on the book series by Diana Gabaldon. Time travel back to the 18th-century Highlands, where history and fantasy come face to face. See secret places & magical sites off the beaten path. June 20 -July 1, 2021 • 11 Nights • $4,995

October 2-11, 2021 • 9 Nights • $3,995

Western & Northern Isles of Scotland

A combination tour of the popular Lords of the Isles and Viking Treasure.

Skye, Lewis, Harris, Orkney, the Northwest and Northeast coasts, and the Highlands.

Includes the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. July 30 - Aug 15, 2021 • 16 Nights • $5,995

— 2021 ESCORTED TOURS —

Deluxe escorted tours 16-guest maximum

©VisitBritain/Chris Gorman

visitbritain.com

Arundel Castle, West Sussex, England.

History of a London icon, portraits in the frameand a grand Tudor room unveiled

TheBULLETIN

PHO

TO:©

CH

RIS

DO

RNEY

/ALA

MY

Though it’s one of the most recognisable landmarks in London,

Tower Bridge has only been around for 126 years. A new

exhibition, which will run until 4 April 2021, aims to celebrate

how the people who work here today continue to make

history through their stewardship of this iconic structure.

The largest and most sophisticated bascule bridge (‘bascule’

meaning ‘seesaw’ in French) when it was built, its Engine Rooms

will host Lives of a Landmark to share the stories of the people

who make this such a special place to visit. The exhibition is

included in standard admission tickets, so you can visit after

crossing the Thames via the bridge’s glass-floored West

Walkway. www.towerbridge.org.uk

Behind the bridge

E X H I B I T I O N

PHO

TOS:

© A

RTH

UR

ATH

ERLE

Y B

Y S

IR T

HO

MA

S LA

WRE

NC

E, O

IL O

N C

AN

VA

S, 1

791/

HO

LBU

RNE

MU

SEU

M/A

NG

US

BREM

NER

/NAT

ION

AL

PORT

RA

ITG

ALL

ERY,

LON

DO

N/E

NG

LISH

HER

ITA

GE/

WIL

LPR

YCE

A new portrait of Sarah Forbes Bonetta, the daughter of an African ruler who became Queen Victoria’s goddaughter, has been unveiled at Osborne House on the Isle of Wight. She was �rst introduced to theQueen aged seven, after being given toCaptain Frederick Forbes of the HMSBonetta as a ‘diplomatic gift’. Victoriawas so taken with the young child that she paid for her education and became her godmother. Portraits of other historical black �gures associated with the charity, whose stories, like Bonetta’s, have been previously overlooked, will go on display at English Heritage sites in spring 2021. www.english-heritage.org.uk

H I S T O R Y

C O M P E T I T I O N

For those of you who have spent the past year honing your artistic skills, a new competition, with prizes worth more than £10,000 including a £7,000 Viking river cruise, is for you. Artists & Illustrators magazine has launched the British Art Prize 2021 in association with the award-winning cruise line, Viking. Open to all, from amateur portraitists to seasoned landscape artists, this is your chance togain exposure at an exhibition of shortlistedworks hosted by a leading London gallery.artistsandillustrators.co.uk/britishartprize

S H O P P I N G

Treat your feet to a new level of comfort this year with a pair of Johnstons of Elgin’s cashmere socks (£39), which come in ten different colours ranging from bright turquoise to the more subtle powder blue [pictured]. Based in Scotland, Johnstons of Elgin are a renowned heritage brand dating back 223 years that pride themselves on only using the best materials. Around 30 different processes and innumerable skilled craftspeople are required to transform their raw cashmere into these incomparably warm but delicately soft pairs of socks. www.johnstonsofelgin.com

Quality cashmere

In the frame

Artistic pursuits

A R T

The coming-of-age story of one of Britain’s greatest portrait painters, Sir Thomas Lawrence, is to be told in the city in which he grew up. Already hailed as a prodigy in the mould of Renaissance masters like Michelangelo, eleven-year-old Lawrence arrived in Bath in 1780, where the Holburne Museum is putting on Thomas Lawrence: Coming of Age from 9 January to 3 May. It will focus on works he painted between the ages of ten and 22, which were arguably some of his best: when the Royal Academy’s 22nd annual exhibition opened in 1790, its most sensational paintings included no less than 12 portraits by Lawrence. www.holburne.org

Child prodigy


HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION

After almost a year in the talented hands of specialist artisans,

the City of London’s historic Charterhouse has a fully

refurbished Great Chamber. Part of a collection of buildings

dating from the 14th century that have played host to a

monastery, a Tudor mansion, a school and, for the past 400

years, an almshouse, the Great Chamber is the jewel in the

Charterhouse’s crown. Created in the 1540s, it has been

witness to some grand royal occasions: Elizabeth I met her

Privy Council here before her coronation in 1558. The room

has been restored to reflect its prestigious past, with a rich

green silk moiré chosen as a backdrop to its fine collection

of Restoration portraits. www.thecharterhouse.org

Grand designs

H E R I T A G E

Use a mix of body, leg and claw

shells to make the bisque


R E A D I N G C O R N E R

Faithful Witness edited by Robert Beaken (£30, SPCK Publishing). The diaries of the king's chaplain provide a ringside view of Edward VIII's abdication, George VI's coronation and more.

Lady Charlotte Guest: The Exceptional Life of a Female Industrialistby Victoria Owens (£25, Pen & Sword History). How a pioneering Victorian businesswoman came to head the world's largest ironworks.

Britain’s Forgotten Traitor: The Life and Death of a Nazi Spyby Ed Perkins (£20, Amberley). Was this Englishman, killed as a traitor, wrongly sent to the gallows?

Henry VII and the Tudor Pretenders Simnel, Warbeck and Warwick by Nathen Amin (£20, Amberley). A compelling account of the three pretenders to the Tudor throne, told for the first time.

Battle of Brothers by Robert Lacey (£20, William Collins). Raised as close brothers, this book investigates how the boy princes have grown into very different men.

Take inspiration for your British adventures from

these great reads

Crab Bisque

R E C I P E

I n g r e d i e n t s : SERVES 4

Dash of vegetable oil

100g butter

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 white onion, chopped

1 red onion, chopped

2 celery stalks, chopped

1 large carrot, chopped

2 red peppers, chopped

1 vegetable stock cube

2 tsp smoked paprika

2 tbsp tomato purée

2 bay leaves

Juice of 1⁄2 lemon

A few dashes of Tabasco

200g tinned chopped tomatoes

Approx. 1kg crab shells

2 heaped tbsp cornflour

150ml double cream

M e t h o d :Put a large saucepan on a medium heat, and add oil, butter, garlic, white and red onions, celery, carrot and red peppers. Sweat for 20 minutes, stirring every now and then, until caramelised. Now stir in your crumbled stock cube, paprika, tomato purée, bay leaves, lemon juice and Tabasco and fry it all off for � ve minutes. Add the tinned tomatoes and crab shells. Give it a good mix and then cover with boiling water: you want about double the amount of water to shells and veg, no more. Bring to the boil, pop a lid on it and simmer for at least an hour. The longer you cook your bisque, the more � avour you will get.

Drain it into a pan through a sieve, discarding shells and veg. Do this twice to remove any trace of shell. Put the bisque back on the heat and bring to the boil. Mix the corn� our with a tablespoon of water and add to the pot, then simmer uncovered for another 15 minutes. Add as much or as little cream as you want, season and serve with warm crusty bread.

The Seafood Shack: Food and Tales from Ullapool by Kirsty Scobie and Fenella Renwick was inspired by the entrepreneurial pair’s successful foray into catering from their humble shack on Scotland’s northwest coast. The book provides 80 recipes and tips for cooking white � sh, smoked � sh and shell� sh (The Kitchen Press, £20; www.kitchenpress.org).

HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION

www.britain-magazine.com BRITAIN 13

DISCOVER SOME OF THE LATEST FANTASTIC TITLES FROMAMBERLEY PUBLISHING

AFRICA REIMAGINED RECLAIMING PROSPERITY FOR THE

CONTINENT BY HLUMELO BIKO

Use code BRIT20 when purchasing direct from our website to enjoy 20% off RRP on the rich catalogue of

titles that we have on offer.Valid from 1st December 2020 to 31st January 2021.

DISCOVER MORE EXCITING TITLESAT WWW.AMBERLEY-BOOKS.COM

THE NOVOTNY PAPERS’A BIT VULTURE, A BIT EAGLE’ BY

LILIAN PIZZICHINI

HENRY VII AND THE TUDOR PRETENDERS

SIMNEL, WARBECK, AND WARWICK BY NATHEN AMIN

BERTRAND’S BROTHERTHE MARRIAGES, MORALS AND

MISDEMEANOURS OF FRANK, 2ND EARL RUSSELL BY RUTH DERHAM

AMBERLEYPUBLISHING

(+44) 1453 [email protected]

✵ ✵ ✵ ✵ ✵

Find out more online by visiting the Cathedral website or by following us on social media

Tel: +44 (0)1749 674483

www.wellscathedral.org.ukCathedral Green, Wells, Somerset, BA5 2UE

Nestled in the southern corner of the Mendip Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and described as the “most poetic” of the English Cathedrals. Wells Cathedral is home to a thriving spiritual, musical and historical community that stretches back

nearly 850 years. The Cathedral welcomes visitors all year round to experience its stunning architecture, world-class music, and a

full programme of services, concerts and events.

Wells Cathedral

From its brooding landscapes to its mighty castles, the beautiful northern county of Northumberland leaves a lasting impression

WORDS EDWARD AVES

KING OFTHE CASTLES

Bamburgh Castle looms over Bamburgh Beach with views of the Farne Islands

16 BRITAIN


PHO

TOS:

©V

ISIT

BRIT

AIN

/YIN

SUN

PHO

TOG

RA

PHY/

DA

VE

PORT

ER/A

LAM

Y/A

DA

MST

AN

FORD

AER

IAL

CA

M/V

IND

OLA

ND

AT

RUST

/ILL

UST

RAT

ION

:©M

ICH

AEL

AH

ILL

Alnwick Castle, the Percy family's ancestral home

Below left: Vindolanda, the remains of the Roman

garrison fort and town

or escapees from the more crowded corners of this little island, one word encapsulates the allure of Northumberland above any other: space. From the rolling moors and deep wooded valleys of

Northumberland National Park to the rugged cliffs and endless beaches of the coast, this is England at its most remote and elemental.

England’s most sparsely populated county is a tranquil getaway today but etched across this ancient landscape are reminders of a turbulent past. Dozens of enigmatic Iron Age hillforts pepper the slopes of the Cheviot Hills, while a string of magni�cent coastal castles testify to centuries of violent clashes between England and Scotland. It was on Northumbrian shores, too, that Viking hordes �rst set foot on English soil.

Above all, there are the atmospheric remnants of Hadrian’s Wall, the monumental forti�cation that snakes almost 80 miles from coast to coast and once formed the Roman Empire’s northwestern frontier. Following in the footsteps of the Roman soldiers that patrolled this remote outpost offers a fascinating glimpse into life in Roman Britain.

There are dozens of Wall sites to explore but none occupy a more dramatic setting than Housesteads Roman Fort. Clinging to a windswept ridge that commands sweeping views across the Northumbrian moors, the fort would have been an ideal vantage-point from which to spy marauding tribes from the north. As you clamber across its ancient stones – the remains of its barracks, hospital, granaries and praetorium (of�cers’ headquarters) all remarkably well preserved – it’s easy to imagine the bustling community that thrived here for 300 years.


Clockwise from this image:The Drawing Room inside Cragside; Craster village harbour; Sycamore Gap at Hadrian's Wall

BRITAIN 19www.britain-magazine.com

A couple of miles south, the garrison fort and town ofVindolanda is one of the most extraordinary archeological treasure-troves in Europe. Every summer, a happy band of volunteers gathers here to fossick in the mud for buried treasure. Pickings are rich, thanks to an astonishingly fortunate set of ground conditions, and hundreds of items are unearthed every year that would normally have disintegrated centuries ago. What’s more, with the site set to yield another 150 years or more of excavations, the best may be yet to come.

You’ll sense that thrill of discovery at Vindolanda’s absorbing museum. Although mostly held at the British Museum, a handful of the famous Vindolanda writing tablets – a hoard of over 1,500 fragile postcards from the past – are preserved here, along with the world’s largest stash of Roman footwear, ranging from centurions’ size tens to dainty little babies’ booties.

Other curiosities dragged up from the deep include a woman’s wig designed to deter midges, a goatskin tent that would have been a match for the Northumbrian wind, and a host of clever household items, from complex locks to contemporary-looking tools, that prove that the Romans were unmatched in ingenuity for many a century.

There are groundbreaking inventions of a different kind an hour’s drive north at Cragside, a fantastical mock Tudor mansion that erupts from its forested surroundings like a fairy-tale Bavarian castle. Cragside was the creation of one Lord Armstrong, a Victorian arms manufacturer of such immense fortune that by the 1880s a quarter of Newcastle’s entire population was estimated to be in his employ.

Armstrong enlisted architect Richard Norman Shaw to transform a humble shooting lodge into an opulent “fairy palace” that would wow the eminent royals and international dignitaries invited for a weekend of country pursuits.

A visionary engineer and early proponent of renewableenergy, Armstrong re-landscaped the 1,700-acre estate, building dams and arti�cial lakes and installing a hydraulic system to power Cragside, making it the �rst house in the world to be lit by hydroelectricity. An incorrigible inventor, he crammed the house with state-of-the-art gadgets – labour-saving kitchen devices included an early dishwasher and a water-powered rotisserie.

The house is a fascinating glimpse into the ambition of the Industrial Age, but it’s the grounds that make a visit to Cragside truly special: an enchanting woodland landscape, exquisite in autumn, crisscrossed with secluded trails that could take days to explore.

Cragside may have been designed to impress but it’s a mere stripling compared with the monumental stone piles built by some of Northumberland’s more ancient families. Ancestral home for over 700 years to the powerful Percy family, Alnwick Castle is the second largest inhabited castle in England (after Windsor) – its towering keep and lofty battlements, set in Capability Brown parkland, presenting the perfect picturebook fortress of every child’s imagination.

Throughout the Middle Ages, the House of Percy played a dominant role in English affairs, often as a thorn in the side of the ruling elite. In 1399, the 1st Earl of Northumberland, Henry Percy, helped dethrone Richard II, while 200 years later his descendant Thomas had his head exhibited outside Parliament for his role in the Gunpowder Plot. No Percy gained more lasting fame than the 1st Earl’s son, the valiant Harry Hotspur, whose rebellions against the incumbent monarch were immortalized in Shakespeare’s Henry IV plays.

These days, it’s another Harry that �res visitors’ imaginations, for the castle’s movie-star good looks earned it a starring role as Hogwarts in the �rst two PH

OTO

S: ©

NAT

ION

AL

TRU

ST IM

AG

ES/A

ND

REA

S V

ON

EIN

SIED

EL/V

ISIT

BRIT

AIN

/AN

DRE

W P

ICK

ETT/

NIC

K H

ATTO

N/A

LAM

Y

Lord Armstrong transformed a humble shooting lodge into an opulent “fairy palace” that would wow his eminent guests


NORTHUMBERLAND

Harry Potter �lms. Once you’ve brushed up on yourbroomstick skills on the Inner Bailey, don’t miss theopulent State Rooms, modelled in the style of anItalian Renaissance palace, which show off thefamily’s remarkable art and furniture collection.

From the castle it’s a short stroll to the wondrousAlnwick Garden, transformed under the vision of thegreen-�ngered current Duchess of Northumberland from astate of dereliction into a modern-day pleasure garden. Itscentrepiece is the Grand Cascade, a tumbling mass of waterthat sparks squeals of joy from those doused in its spray.

A stroll through the Cherry Orchard, planted with over300 tai-haiku trees, is magical in spring, while the famedPoison Garden, packed with deadly plants, provides acompelling glimpse into nature’s darker side.

Beyond Alnwick beckons the coast: an undevelopednatural wonderland of deserted dune-backed beaches,craggy cliffs and bird-rich mud �ats that stretches up to theScottish border. First stop is the pocket-sized village ofCraster – barely more than a huddle of �sherman’s cottagesperched above a kelp-smothered old stone harbour, yet

THE PLANNER

GETTING THERE

Regular trains from London King’s Cross to Edinburgh stop at Newcastle-upon-Tyne (3hr), where you can rent a car, with some services also stopping at Alnmouth (for Alnwick) and Berwick-upon-Tweed. British Airways operate several flights daily from London Heathrow to Newcastle Airport (1hr). www.thetrainline.com; www.britishairways.com

WHERE TO STAY

Cosy Bamburgh Castle Inn occupies a peerless position above the tiny fishing harbour at Seahouses, three miles south of Bamburgh, with sweeping views along the coast. Boat trips leave for the Farne Islands just outside, and dolphins and seals are often spotted just offshore. www.inncollectiongroup.com/ bamburgh-castle-inn

WHERE TO EAT

Feast on hearty portions, packed with locally sourced ingredients and zinging with flavour, in the wood-panelled Joiners Arms, a lively village inn five miles north of Craster. www.joiners-arms.com

FURTHER INFORMATION

www.visitnorthumberland.com

famed countrywide for the plump, juicy kippers(smoked herring) cured in the local smokehouses:follow the lingering scent of wood smoke to tinyfamily-run L Robson, where they’re on offer for a steal.

From the harbour, it’s a bracing half-hour hikenorth along the wave-battered shore to 14th-centuryDunstanburgh Castle, a former stronghold of John ofGaunt and scene of �erce �ghting in the Wars of the Roses.Ruined since the 16th century, its spectral remains jaggedand twisted against the sky, it presents a moody scenefamously captured by JMW Turner.

Nine miles up the coast, and visible for miles around, thecolossal battlements of Bamburgh Castle loom imperiouslyfrom a high rocky plateau over tiny Bamburgh village.In the 6th century, the kings of Bernicia – forerunnerto the kingdom of Northumberland, the largest and mostpowerful of the seven Anglo-Saxon kingdoms – chose thisdramatic site as their capital, and it remained a royalfortress for almost a millennium until a pummelling byYorkist forces in 1464 brought its defensive days to a close.In 1894, the semi-derelict remains were bought by Lord

i

�e island casts a powerful spell, only heightened by the dramatic approach across a narrow causeway cut o� twice a day by treacherous tide

Clockwise, from above: The Holy Island of Lindisfarne; the dining room inside Lindisfarne Castle; the monument to local heroine Grace Darling at St Aidan's, Bamburgh


Armstrong (of Cragside fame), who spent his �nal years remodelling the place at vast expense as today’s crenellated castle-mansion.

Still a family home, the castle’s State Rooms show off the Armstrongs’ eclectic taste in art and furniture, with plenty a nod to their royal connections, and provide spectacular views across windswept Bamburgh beach to the Farne Islands, just offshore – home in summer to thousands of nesting puf�ns.

It was on a stormy night in September 1838 that a paddlesteamer, the SS Forfarshire, ran aground on the perilous Farne rocks. The ensuing bravery of Grace Darling, the young daughter of an island lighthouse keeper, who rowed out to help rescue nine stricken sailors from certain doom, was trumpeted by the press who turned Grace into a reluctant national heroine. Tragically, she died just four years later, aged 26, and was buried in the churchyard of St Aidan’s in Bamburgh village – the level of her fame is evident from the grandeur of her Gothic memorial. Opposite, an RNLI Museum preserves her effects, including the �at-bottomed coble she expertly steered in the howling gale.

Legends swirl around the Holy Island of Lindisfarne like the mists that drape its eponymous castle. The island casts a powerful spell – a sense of otherworldliness only PH

OTO

S: ©

OLI

MPI

O F

AN

TU

Z/4

CO

RNER

S IM

AG

ES/N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

IMA

GES

/AN

DRE

AS

VO

N E

INSI

EDEL

/WA

ND

ERIN

G M

INST

REL/

ALA

MY


NORTHUMBERLAND

heightened by the dramatic approach, across a narrow causeway cut off twice a day by treacherous tides.

It was this isolation and serenity that led the ascetic Irish monk, St Aidan, to found a monastery on the island in 635 AD at the request of the Northumbrian King Oswald, establishing a toehold for Christianity from which it soon spread across Anglo-Saxon England. The monastery�ourished, becoming one of the greatest artistic centres in Europe – exempli�ed by the magni�cent illuminated Lindisfarne Gospels, now held at the British Library – until it was ransacked by Vikings in 793, the �rst in a series of murderous raids. When the Northumbrian kingdom collapsed at the hands of the invading Danish army 80 years later, the monks �ed.

The richly decorated ruins of Lindisfarne Priory you see today date from the 12th century, when Benedictine monks from Durham recolonized the site, and offer a �ne panorama across to Lindisfarne’s fairytale castle, perched on a conical crag half a mile away. Built in the 16th centuryto fortify the island against Scottish invasion, the castle feels cosier inside than its forbidding exterior may suggest – in the early 1900s, the celebrated architect Edwin Lutyenstransformed the now-decaying fort into a plush holiday home for his friend and client, the publishing magnate

Edward Hudson, lightening the spartan interior with some homespun personal touches.

Fifteen miles up the coast, our journey comes to an end just shy of the Scottish border at handsome Berwick-upon-Tweed, England’s most northerly town. In medieval times, Berwick changed hands so many times between the two warring nations that for a period of�cial proclamations referred to England, Scotland and Berwick-upon-Tweed – a state of affairs that gave rise to the legend that the town was mistakenly omitted in the Treaty of Paris that ended the Crimean War, and thus technically remained at war with Russia until the oversight was corrected in 1966.

The tale may be apocryphal but even today, many locals remain lightheartedly ambivalent about the town’s status as either English or Scottish, regarding themselves �rst and foremost as Berwickers. Circuiting the town’s massive Elizabethan ramparts, commissioned at vast expense in the1550s during a period of renewed Anglo-Scottish rivalry,you get the feeling that if Berwickers wanted to go it alone,they could. Proud and independent-spirited – what couldbe more Northumbrian than that?

For more things to see and do in beautiful Northumberland, visit www.britain-magazine.com PH

OTO

S: ©

EFR

AIN

PA

DRO

/ALA

MY

Above: The Old Bridge and River Tweed in Berwick-upon-Tweed, England's most northerly town


[email protected] | 01668213013www.marketcrossguesthouse.com

Market Cross, once part of a Georgian coaching house is now an award winning luxury Bed and Breakfast in the village of Belford. Run by us, Amanda and Steve White since 2012 we have decorated the house to be warm and welcoming. Located in North Northumberland we are also

close to all the main attractions of the area and the coast.

Food quality is important to us and we make as much as possible ourselves. Our bread, preserves, granola and even baked beans are made by us and we source as many of our ingredients as we can locally. These include flour ground at a local water powered mills at Heatherslaw.

Our kippers and smoked salmon are from Swallows smoke house in Seahouses founded in 1843. Sausages and bacon come from Carters in Bamburgh. We even grow our own plums, rhubarb and

pears as well as hand picking strawberries and raspberriess at a local farm.

Market Cross Guest House

+44 (0) 7977 564 585+44 (0) 7739 643 745 | +1 (954) 376 8628

[email protected]

Calland speak

to us!

The Ultimate Luxury EscapeEXCLUSIVE | PRIVATE | BESPOKE

�e Only All-Inclusive ExperienceOf Its Kind

Inspired by a passion of all things fragranced, Scents by Stephanie Faye is handmade in Twickenham and combines home fragrance with true sensory delight.

The perfect way to melt away into the moment, surrounded by soft candle light and your favourite fragrance, nothing quite says “relax” like a wax melt.

These scented delights are ideal for gifts, or just a little piece of well deserved self indulgence and come in an array of aromas, to suit personal taste and mood.

Lavender and amber is a personal favourite, both soothing and relaxing, it’s the perfect way to wind down at bed time.

In the morning, why not pop a laundry scent in your warmer, sit back and enjoy a coffee while the scent of fresh washing fills your home, whilst barely having to

lift a finger!

www.scentsbystephaniefaye.co.uk


STATELY HOMES

The National Trust’s Location Managers take us behind the scenes and revisit some iconic film and TV moments in which their historic houses and landscapes have starred

WORDS HARVEY EDGINGTON & LAUREN TAYLOR

This image: Basildon Park in Berkshire stands in for the Crawleys' London residence in Downton AbbeyInset: Basildon Park's Dining Room

National Trust on Screen

IMA

GES

: © N

ICK

BRIG

GS/

CA

RNIV

AL

FILM

S/N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

IMA

GES

/JA

MES

DO

BSO

N

BRITAIN 25

STATELY HOMES


26 BRITAIN

STATELY HOMES

Trust colleagues and the production’s location managers on a cliff, down in a cellar or next to a lake. Each month, an average of nine TV dramas or �lms will shoot at our properties; sometimes three are happening at once. Occasionally there is a rush at one location: back in 2009 Robin Hood immediately followed Harry Potter at Pembrokeshire’s Freshwater West beach. They nearly had to wrestle for the dates they wanted.

Occasionally the queries can be a little bizarre. Personal favourites include: What day will the lambs be born? Do we have a hill they can roll a big cheese down? Can we suspend a hot-air balloon between two huge cranes? And have we got any antique wooden legs? Sometimes we can say yes: a big cheese did indeed roll down a National Trust hill and, as it happens, we do have a wooden leg. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to predict the day the lambs would put in an appearance.

Since 2003 the Trust has had a dedicated Filming

an we provide a top-secret military installation for the next Bond �lm? Do we have a spectacular ballroom for next year’s big costume drama? Have we got

an Isaac Newton look-a-like who can go on camera? When the phone rings at the National Trust Filming and Locations of�ce, it could be any �lming query imaginable.

And so a day here is never dull. We might be deep in the detail of planning a shoot – herding the right sort of toads, or working out how exactly an army of six hundred (with 150 horses) will battle their way across a beach. Our small team manages bookings from the initial query through to the actual shoot days. We sort out the logistics and negotiate every detail, from whether food and drink can be taken into some of our �nest staterooms, to where the trucks are going to park.

Wellington boots and a clipboard are always at hand as we might be out having meetings with National

Left: The library at Osterley House in London features in The Dark Knight RisesRight: Antony House in Cornwall was used in the making of Tim Burton's Alice in WonderlandInset: Mia Wasikowska as Alice in Tim Burton's adaptationIM

AG

ES: ©

NAT

ION

AL

TRU

ST IM

AG

ES/J

OH

N H

AM

MO

ND

/JA

MES

DO

BSO

N/I

TAR-

TASS

NEW

S A

GEN

CY/

ALA

MY


and Locations Of�ce to manage the demand. Filming isn’t new to the Trust though: in the 1950s we hosted Cary Grant at Osterley Park in The Grass is Greener; the 1960s saw a Carry On �lm, Don’t Lose Your Head, at Cliveden, and Harrison Ford popped by Stowe for Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom in the 1980s.

On the costume drama front we’ve really got things covered. Various mines and beaches in Cornwall appeared in all �ve series of Poldark. The cast and crew of Downton Abbey were also repeat visitors; our properties appeared in all but one of their six series, as well as the �lm version. Our most signi�cant appearance was as Grantham House, the Crawleyfamily’s London home, when the Dining Room atBasildon Park provided the dazzling backdrop forLady Rose’s coming out ball.

The room had previously been used as a ballroomwhen Lizzie and Mr Darcy danced there in the 2005

�lm version of Pride and Prejudice. This leads nicely to Mr Darcy’s dip in the lake for the Pride and Prejudice TV series in 1995, surely costume drama’s most iconic moment and one that still brings interested visitors to Lyme today. More recently, when The Crown needed some muddy countryside and a boathouse for Prince Philip to fall out of, they thought of us; Woodchester Park appears as the grounds of Prince Charles’s school, Gordonstoun, in Season Two.

Perhaps more surprisingly, we’ve lent our looks to some fantasy blockbusters too. Castle Ward stood in as Winterfell in Seasons One and Two of Game of Thrones. Also for Season Two, Renly Baratheon’s camp was created in an over�ow car park, showingthat �lming is really not all glamour.

We had a dual appearance in 2012’s The DarkKnight Rises. Director Christopher Nolan built theentrance to the Batcave in Osterley’s library, whilethe exit was at Henrhyd Falls in Wales. Despitethem being 175 miles apart it is of course seamlesswhen you see it.

Then there’s the world of Harry Potter, in whichTrust locations were constantly popping up; our sitesappear in six of the eight �lms, most prominentlywhen Lacock Abbey made up part of Hogwarts inthe �rst two �lms.

Clockwise, from top left: Lyme Park in Cheshire attracts fans of Pride and Prejudice; the Temple of Apollo at Stourhead, Wiltshire, where Mr Darcy proposes to Lizzie; Trust properties appear in six of the eight Harry Potter films; Lacock Abbey in Wiltshire masquerades as Hogwarts

Mr Darcy’s dip in the lake was surely costume drama’s most iconic moment, and one that still brings interested visitors to Lyme


IMA

GES

:© N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

IMA

GES

/MAT

TH

EW A

NT

ROBU

S/C

HRI

S LA

CEY

/MA

RK B

OLT

ON

/CO

LLEC

TIO

N C

HRI

STO

PHEL

/ALA

MY


STATELY HOMES

One of our locations has even stood in for a galaxyfar, far away; in Star Wars: Episode VII – The ForceAwakens, Borrowdale and Derwentwater in the LakeDistrict shone in some gripping helicopter shotsshowing X-wing �ghters in battle.

Fountains Abbey, Chartwell and Petworth have all‘played themselves’, which was less of a stretch, but it’snot just houses and the countryside that get a look-in:two mines, a mill, a theatre, an entire village and aholiday cottage have all been given starring roles.

The main reasons that the Trust likes to be involvedin so much �lming is that successful productions oftenlead to a rise in visitors and in addition to this, beingin a �lm or TV series generates much-needed incomefor the location, which can be used for conservationwork. Great Chal�eld Manor re-roofed its stables

thanks to The Other Boleyn Girl; after Tim Burton’sAlice in Wonderland, Antony House in Cornwall sawits visitor numbers quadruple. Hosting a �lm can alsoboost the local economy, as the cast and crew needto be accommodated, transported and catered for.

In our new book we reveal which actors havebecome National Trust regulars (we’re looking atyou Judi Dench, Aidan Turner and Keira Knightley);why the sites were chosen, and how we manage thecomplicated challenges that �lming in historic placescan present. Whether it’s a beach, woodland or ahouse, we have to ensure the �lm-makers can achievethe shots they need in locations that must be left asthey were found.

Filming is very much a team effort and collaborationacross the Trust often starts months in advance. Withcontracts exchanged, and all parties fully briefed,the property staff are braced for the arrival of the �lmcrew. The best bit comes much later – sometimes a yearor more – in the cinema or on the sofa at home, whenwe �nally see one of ‘our’ properties appear on screenand we can annoy our family by pointing them out.

We hope the book becomes a companion thatreaders take on their visits to our stars of the screen.As good as our locations look on camera they areeven better in real life, and you might just bumpinto one of Hollywood’s �nest. Keira, probably.This is an edited extract from National Trust on Screen by Harvey Edgington and Lauren Taylor, published by Pitkin (£9.99).

This image: The abandoned engine houses of Botallack Mine in Cornwall stand in for the Poldark family mines; Below: Ross and Demelza Poldark are played by Aidan Turner and Eleanor Tomlinson


PHO

TOS:

©N

ATIO

NA

LT

RUST

IMA

GES

/DA

VID

SEL

LMA

N/N

AD

IA M

AC

KEN

ZIE

/BBC

FIL

MS/

ALB

UM

/ALA

MY

FAVOURITE FILMING MOMENTS

● Watching from the sidelines when our conservation specialists worked with the film crew to ensure the safety of Kedleston Hall’s historic interior when Keira Knightley’s wig had to catch fire in The Duchess. It was a tad terrifying.● Attending a recce with the legendary Ridley Scott at Ashridge to plan exact locations and logistics for Robin Hood. He needed to find somewhere to put some ‘medieval hovels’ and the National Trust was happy to oblige. ● Sitting in the cinema, watching Mr Darcy propose to Lizzie Bennet at Stourhead’s Temple of Apollo. We’d set up the shoot 14 months before and with the setting, the view and the rain machines galore we knew it was going to be beautiful. It certainly didn’t disappoint.

This image: Great Chalfield Manor in

Wiltshire features in The Other Boleyn Girl; Below: Natalie

Portman and Scarlett Johansson in the film


We Live & Breathe JewelleryFind us on Facebook or visit us at

www.boutiquesophia.co.uk

Con Amore was established in 2019, with a love and a passion for home fragrance, Jo the founder of Con Amore wanted to offer that luxury experience at an affordable

cost. Not all luxury items have to come with a luxury price tag!All products are hand poured in small batches. Con Amore are an eco friendly business

and the waxes for candles and wax melts are a blend of Rapeseed and Coconut. These waxes are sustainable and renewable and are free from GMO (genetic

modification). The waxes and oils used are cruelty free making them vegan friendly. The classic minimalist branding will bring a touch of class and elegance to any home.

www.conamorecandles.co.uk

BRITAIN 33

HISTORY


FirstAMONG EQUALS

This year marks the 300th anniversary of Robert Walpole taking office as Britain’s first Prime Minister. We delve into the history of this prestigious post, and reveal how it has evolved through the centuries

WORDS NEIL JONES


HISTORY

n 1841, early in Queen Victoria’s reign, her mentor and Prime Minister Viscount Melbourne explained truthfully if opaquely to Her Majesty: “How the power of Prime

rew up into its present form it is dif�cult to ely.”

It’s certainly a tangled tale, the of�ce having largely evolved through a mix of opportunism, necessity and convention. Sir Robert Walpole is generally reckoned to be the country’s �rst Prime Minister, holding sway 300 years ago from 1721 to 1742, a lengthy service that led him to quip: “My great crime is my long continuance in of�ce, and the exclusion of those who now complain against me.”

So how did Walpole pioneer the role of PM and how did it subsequently develop into today’s post of leader of Her Majesty’s Government, ultimately responsible for its policy and decisions?

The tussle between monarch and parliament for control over government, and particularly the nation’s purse strings, was centuries old but the ‘Glorious Revolution’ of 1688–1689 ushered in a de�nite shift in the balance of power towards ministers. George I, having arrived from Hanover in 1714, then inadvertently provided the opening for what would grow into the of�ce of Prime Minister when, uninterested in British affairs and struggling to speak English, he ceased to attend Cabinet meetings. Instead he let a minister represent him – Robert Walpole.

The son of a prominent Norfolk landowner, Walpole had become a Whig MP in 1701 and had risen swiftly despite a short spell in the Tower of London for alleged corruption in 1712 (such accusations would dog his career). As First Lord of the Treasury and Chancellor of the Exchequer in the 1720s he wielded enormous power, helped to restore government credit after the �nancial crisis of the South Sea Bubble, and pursued admirable

BRITAIN 35

HISTORY


IMA

GES

: © IA

ND

AG

NA

LLC

OM

PUT

ING

/JO

HN

NY

GRE

IG/A

LAM

Y/N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

IMA

GES

/JO

HN

HA

MM

ON

D

Clockwise from left: 10 Downing Street, official residence of the Prime Minister; George I by Godfrey Kneller, 1727;

Previous page: Portrait of Robert Walpole (PM 1721-1742) by Jean-Baptiste van Loo, c.1740

Sir Robert Walpole in the House of Commons by Sir James Thornhill and William Hogarth, 1730


HISTORY

Below: Sir Henry Campbell-Bannerman (PM 1905-1908) by the British School,

c.19th centuryRight: Theresa May (PM 2016-2019) meeting ministers at Chequers

policies of peace, prosperity, stability and security.Walpole was also a supreme political string-puller –

his nickname was the Screen-Master General – and he cannily managed the business of monarch (both George I and George II) and Parliament, not least through manoeuvrings in Cabinet.

When George II offered him the gift of 10 Downing Street Walpole declined personal ownership and lived there on condition it became the of�cial residence for First Lords of the Treasury, which it continues to be. (The Second Lord of the Treasury, aka the Chancellor of the Exchequer, traditionally lives next door.) Walpole furthermore denied “unequivocally” being “sole and prime minister”, not from modesty, but because it had been thought monarchs should be their own ‘prime ministers’, so to describe a subject as such would be to accuse them of overstepping their station. Even in 1829 of�cial recognition of the PM title was dismissed as “mischievous” and “unconstitutional”.

But whatever the public posturing, times had changed and political leaders were quick to follow Walpole’s methods of managing the agenda, typically acting as Prime Minister while holding the of�cial post of First Lord of the Treasury. George III meddled in government but the gradual removal of the monarchy from politics in favour

BRITAIN 37

HISTORY


Below, top to bottom: Benjamin Disraeli (PM 1868, 1874-1880) by Sir Francis Grant, c.19th century;photograph of William Gladstone (PM 1868-1874, 1880-1885, 1886, 1892-1894), date unknown

ORDER, ORDER!

● Questions to the PM were introduced in Parliament in 1881 – the forerunner of today’s weekly Prime Minister’s Questions, or PMQs, that give MPs the chance to grill the Prime Minister.

IMA

GES

: © M

OD

/CRO

WN

CO

PYRI

GH

T/JA

Y A

LLEN

/TH

E N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

PH

OTO

LIB

RA

RY/K

GPA

LT

D/A

RTEP

ICS/

ALA

MY


HISTORY

of a ceremonial role, combined with the growth in partypolitics and Reform Acts broadening the franchise wouldusher in our system today.

Where once the sovereign had a large say in the choiceof Prime Minister, now the leader of the majority party inthe Commons normally gets the job, although following ageneral election the Queen still of�cially invites him or her– at the royal audience known as ‘kissing hands’ – to form agovernment. The PM’s appointment of members of Cabinet,to meet forthcoming challenges and balance factions withintheir party, sets the tone for their term in of�ce.

Incidentally, the �rst person to be given of�cial useof the title Prime Minister was Sir Henry Campbell-Bannerman (Liberal PM 1905–1908), while the �rststatutory reference to a Prime Minister dates from theChequers Estate Act 1917, designating Chequers inBuckinghamshire as a prime ministerial country residence.

There have been 77 Prime Ministers to date (includingBoris Johnson), each bringing their own style to the of�ce.In the pantheon of early in�uencers we must include Charles,2nd Earl Grey who, though he served as PM in a Whiggovernment for scarcely four years (1830–1834), championedthe Great Reform Act (1832) that sparked subsequentelectoral changes on the road to greater democracy inBritain. Curiously, he is more remembered for Earl Greybergamot-�avoured tea, to which he gave his name.

Two-times Conservative PM Sir Robert Peel (1834–1835, 1841–1846) also oversaw important social reformsincluding the Factory Act (1844) improving workers’

For more key moments in British

history, see www.britain-

magazine.com

William Pitt ‘the Younger’ holds the record for being Britain’s youngest Prime Minister,

just 24 when he first took office

Above: An illustration depicting the murder of Spencer Perceval (PM 1809-1812)Right: William Pitt the Younger (PM 1783-1801, 1804-1806) by the Studio of Thomas Gainsborough


IMA

GES

: © F

ALK

ENST

EIN

FOTO

/ART

OKO

LORO

/ALA

MY/

AN

DRE

W P

AR

SON

S/10

DO

WN

ING

ST

REET

/FRE

MA

NT

LE/A

LAM

Y/PA

ARC

HIV

E/PA

IMA

GES

Winston Churchill (PM 1940-1945, 1951-1955) at his desk at Chartwell; Margaret Thatcher (PM 1979-1990)

conditions, although his creation of the Metropolitan Police in 1829 when he was Home Secretary is more widely recalled, in the nickname ‘bobby’ for policeman. Cynics also like to quote his observation, “There seem to me to be very few facts, at least ascertainable facts, in politics.”

Before either Grey or Peel, William Pitt ‘the Younger’ (Tory and Whig 1783–1801, 1804–1806) holds the record for being Britain’s youngest PM, just 24 when he �rst took of�ce, while Spencer Perceval (Tory 1809–1812) is sadly known for being the only British PM to be assassinated in of�ce: shot through the heart in the parliamentary lobby by a merchant with a grievance against the government.

Meanwhile, the 1st Duke of Wellington (Tory 1828–1830) proved that an illustrious military career wasn’t necessarily the best training for schmoozing fellow politicians, noting after his �rst Cabinet meeting as PM: “An extraordinary affair. I gave them their orders and they wanted to stay and discuss them.”

The latter 19th century gave rise to perhaps the most famous and bitter of prime ministerial rivalries, between Benjamin Disraeli and William Gladstone: ‘Dizzy’, the novelist, dandy, bon viveur and outsider of Jewish descent who on becoming Conservative PM (1868, 1874–1880) rejoiced, “I have climbed the greasy pole”; and the contrastingly statesmanlike Tory-turned-Liberal ‘Grand Old Man’ Gladstone who served as PM for four separate periods, more than any other PM (1868–1874, 1880–1885, 1886, 1892–1894). While Disraeli �attered and was favoured by Queen Victoria, Gladstone, who urged the widowed monarch to embrace more public duty, was criticised by her as “a half-mad �rebrand”.

The political classes were broadening and the 3rd Marquess of Salisbury, Queen Victoria’s �nal PM (Conservative 1885–1886, 1886–1892, 1895–1902) was the last peer to occupy the of�ce (the 14th Earl of Home renounced his title after becoming PM in 1963). It was Salisbury who re�ected, “English policy is to �oat lazily downstream, occasionally putting out a diplomatic boathook to avoid collisions.”

The 20th century, of course, saw Britain’s �rst female PM, the ‘Iron Lady’ Margaret Thatcher (Conservative 1979–1990). It also gave us Sir Winston Churchill (Conservative 1940–1945, 1951–1955), the epitome of the right man at the right time for the job, stirring the nation in wartime to strive for victory against the odds with rhetoric of “blood, toil, tears and sweat”.

From Churchill to Boris Johnson, the Queen has received 14 different PMs since 1952 at weekly audiences at Buckingham Palace where Her Majesty, while politically neutral, may “advise and warn” her ministers in private conversations. Thus the relationship between PM and monarch continues, underpinned by tradition, but always evolving.

Right, top to bottom: The current PM, Boris Johnson, joined by Chancellor of the Exchequer Rishi Sunak;

CapitalEscapes

Staying somewhere special has never felt so appealing. Here’s our pick of the best

hotels within easy reach of LondonWORDS NATASHA FOGES

For much of the last year, we haven’t been able to travel in the way we used to, but the longing to stay somewhere new, to escape the

everyday for a day or more, hasn’t abated. We’ve compiled a wishlist of special places to stay once restrictions are eased, all set in tranquil countryside within an hour of the capital. Which would you choose?


PLACES TO STAY

For a country-house hotel with history, Cliveden reigns supreme. There’s been a house on this site since the 17th century, playing host to every monarch from George I onwards, and home to three Dukes, an Earl and Frederick Prince of Wales. The hotel prides itself on its historic pedigree, and the interiors are wonderfully in keeping – everywhere you look are suits of armour, tapestries, portraits and statuary. Whether you’re having a cocktail in the wood-panelled bar, relaxing in your antiques-�lled room, or dining in the ornate French Dining Room – transported in its entirety from France’s Château d’Asnières by one-time owner William Waldorf Astor in 1897 – you can’t fail to be transported to a bygone era.

The hotel is surrounded by 376 acres of National Trust parkland on the banks of the Thames – meaning uninterrupted views of the gardens and leafy Berkshire countryside from your breakfast table. Make time for the Cliveden Spa, whose focal point is an outdoor pool in the walled garden. It’s famous as the scene of the �rst meeting of Christine Keeler and John Profumo, which ignited the scandalous Profumo Affair that rocked the Establishment in 1960s Britain. Yet another layer of history that makes a stay here unique.

Another hotel that holds a special place in 20th-century history is Beaverbrook, an imposing Neoclassical mansion set in a wooded Surrey valley. It was once the home of Lord Beaverbrook, press baron and one of the leading lights of his great friend Winston Churchill’s government, who played a crucial role in the war effort as Minister of Aircraft Production, dreaming up the famous ‘Saucepans for PH

OTO

S: ©

DA

N J

ON

ES IM

AG

ES L

TD

/SIM

ON

BRO

WN


Previous page: The Great Hall at Cliveden in Berkshire Clockwise from top left: Beaverbrook in Surrey; the Elizabeth Taylor Room at Beaverbrook; the Library at Beaverbrook; the Dining Room at Cliveden


PLACES TO STAY

Clockwise, from top left: The indoor pool at Ockenden Manor; the Walnut Room at Hever Castle's luxury B&B; Hever Castle; Ockenden Manor Hotel in Sussex


PLACES TO STAYPH

OTO

S: ©

JO

NAT

HA

N S

YER

/HEV

ER C

AST

LE &

GA

RDEN

S

Spit�res’ campaign. Beaverbrook hosted the great and the good at his country pile; some of his famous guests, from HG Wells to Charlie Chaplin, are commemorated in the names of the guestrooms. The house has been sympathetically transformed into a luxury country-house hotel while losing none of its authenticity. Aircraft motifs, wartime memorabilia and black-and-white photographs of Beaverbrook and his guests are dotted throughout. You can easily imagine the charismatic Beaverbrook holding forth to a crowd of acolytes in the morning room, puf�ng on a cigar in the library or watching war reports with Churchill in Britain’s �rst home cinema.

Just as in Beaverbrook’s day, guests are not required to lift a �nger during their stay; staff are on hand to whisk bags to rooms, take you on a tour of the estate in a golf buggy, and lead the way to one of two restaurants for dinner. If you’re feeling active, a host of activities, from clay shooting to croquet, are on offer in the grounds.

Rewind a few centuries to our next stop, historic Hever Castle in Kent. Having remodelled his country estate Cliveden in the late 19th century, William Waldorf Astor was ready for a new challenge. In 1903 he acquired the Hever Castle estate, enchanted by the double-moated castle at its heart, which dates from 1270 and was Anne Boleyn’s childhood home.

Known for his lavish parties, Astor built a series of buildings, known as the ‘Tudor village’ for his guests – which are now luxurious B&B rooms. A stickler for detail, he ensured that the buildings mimicked Tudor architecture, right down to the convincing leaded windows.

For those with an interest in Tudor history, there’s no better place to indulge your passion – and at a level of luxury that would surely have pleased the exacting Astor. Some rooms come with four-poster beds,

chaise-longues and marble-clad bathrooms, where you can enjoy a jaw-dropping view of the castle from your roll-top bath.

Astor built a lake and extensive ornamental gardens in the grounds, dotted with his collection of statuary. You can wander the gardens before crossing the drawbridge to enter the crenellated (and apparently haunted) castle. Look out for the spectre of Henry VIII’s second wife, and don’t miss the Book of Hours Room, which holds two prayer books signed by Anne herself in happier times.

In deepest Sussex, Ockenden Manor is another hotel that successfully blends architecture from different eras. The main building is an Elizabethan manor house, all dark wood panelling, creaky �oors and cosiness, while in the grounds the clean lines of a cutting-edge spa are a striking counterpoint.

This is no ordinary hotel spa: it’s fed by the hotel’s own underground spring and is a larger, more comprehensive offering than your average, with indoor and outdoor pools, steam room, �otation room and a hot tub overlooking rolling Cuck�eld Park, a prime swathe of Sussex countryside.

With an award-winning �ne-dining restaurant, �re-lit drawing room and luxurious bedrooms that come stocked with home-made biscuits, this is a hotel designed for a weekend of indulgence.

Another must-visit for any spa a�cionado is Pennyhill Park, whose huge spa facility boasts an array of pools, herbal steam rooms and thermal cabins in a range of temperatures, humidities and aromas – heaven, in short, for anyone who takes pampering seriously (you can even order a glass of champagne to sip as you wallow).

Spend an afternoon at the spa and, suitably unwound and clad in gown and slippers, pad back to your room in the main house,


PLACES TO STAY

Clockwise, from top left: Pennyhill Park; dining at Le Manoir; the Hydrangea Suite at Le Manoir; afternoon tea at Pennyhill Park


PLACES TO STAY

Cliveden House

A historic and glamorous hotel witha staggering array of famous pastguests, set in extensive NationalTrust parkland.www.clivedenhouse.co.uk

Beaverbrook

Visitors to this stylish country-househotel in Surrey feel like guests atone of Lord Beaverbrook’s intimatehouse parties.www.beaverbrook.co.uk

Hever Castle B&B

A magical opportunity to stay onthe Hever Castle estate in Kent,whose luxury B&B rooms arebig on Tudor atmosphere.www.hevercastle.co.uk

Ockenden Manor

The splendid spa is the jewel inthe crown of this Elizabethanmanor in Sussex.www.hshotels.co.uk

Pennyhill Park

This Surrey spa hotel wins on allfronts, with comfortable and airyrooms, Michelin-starred diningand a swanky spa.www.exclusive.co.uk

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons

This 15th-century manor inOxfordshire is full of the flair ofits world-famous maître de maison,Raymond Blanc. The food is,of course, sublime.www.belmond.com

BOOK AHEAD

a grand 18th-century affair set in sprawling grounds, where youcan while away the hours until dinner at Michelin-starred Latymer.An opulent space of plush velvet banquettes and dim lighting, it’s aspecial setting for a memorable meal: a feast full of creative �ourishes.

More indulgence is on the menu at Britain’s gourmet hotel parexcellence, Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire,which was awarded two Michelin stars upon opening 35 years ago,and retains them to this day. A honey-coloured 15th-century manorapproached by a lavender-scented pathway, the hotel is permeatedwith the gallic �air of its famous maître de maison, Raymond Blanc.

Blanc’s panache extends to the decor. The rooms each have theirown imaginative design, with choices like Bluebell, with its wall-to-ceiling Toile de Jouy wallpaper, and Hyacinth, a vision in lilac witha canopied bed and hand-painted Victorian bath. But while therooms are the height of luxury, the food inevitably takes centre stage.

Make sure you arrive hungry: it would be a shame to leave evena morsel of the exceptional seven-course tasting menu untried.Ingredients are sourced from the hotel’s own kitchen garden (supplierof 90 different kinds of vegetable and 70 varieties of herb). Dinnermight include Cornish turbot with cucumber, wasabi and Exmoorcaviar; Rhug Estate lamb with courgette �ower and fresh pea; and ahost of other sublime culinary �ights of fancy.

After your meal, stroll the beautiful gardens. A picture-perfectensemble of manicured lawns, 15th-century ponds and elaborategarden rooms dotted with contemporary sculpture, they’re agarden enthusiast’s paradise.

For more special places to stay, visit www.britain-magazine.com

A honey-coloured 15th-century manor approached by a lavender-scented pathway, Le Manoir is permeated with gallic �air

PHO

TOS:

© J

AM

ES M

ERRE

LL/H

ELN

CAT

HC

ART

S T H TR ITI NS

From Highland dress to Hogmanay, the Scots have some unique customs that have stood the test

of time. But what were their origins?

WORDS HELEN OCHYRA

PHO

TOS:

© V

ISIT

SC

OT

LAN

D/K

ENN

Y L

AM

1. The kiltThere is much dispute in the history of Highland dress, and its best-known garment, the kilt. Some say it was invented by an Englishman, others that it has a long and noble history as the uniform of the clans.

Its modern history began with the Act of Proscription, drafted into British law in 1747 in the aftermath of the Battle of Culloden. This aimed to eradicate Highland culture (and with it any opposition to the Hanoverian state) and made wearing Highland dress illegal with one notable exception: the army.

This allowed the elite of British society to de�ne the Highlands as a military region par excellence, an idea which persists to this day, with many units still wearing Highland dress for ceremonial occasions.

The kilt began to denote status and, through its association with the elite, it became fashionable – and expensive. It also became leaner, generally losing its plaid (the long section which winds up and over the shoulder), and becoming the “little kilt” or “feileadh beag”.

This is where Englishman Thomas Rawlinson, an industrialist seeking to make Highland dress more practical for his workers, comes in.

But the kilt we see today almost certainly developed in many places throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, making its exact origin unknown, and much disputed.

The Act of Proscription was revoked in 1782, and in 1822 King George III wore a kilt on his visit to Edinburgh, a tartan-drenched affair orchestrated by Sir Walter Scott. This secured the kilt’s place as Scotland’s national dress, which it retains to this day.

2. Burns NightHeld annually on January 25, Burns Night celebrates the life and work of Robert Burns, widely regarded as Scotland’s national bard. The �rst was held on July 21, 1801 (the �fth anniversary of the poet’s death), but today it is celebrated on his birthday and focuses on a supper.

This usually begins with the guests being piped in, before sitting down to eat haggis. Everyone stands as this is brought in, formally led by a piper. The host then recites the Address to a Haggis (written by Burns) and after the meal various toasts and speeches are made, usually including a toast to Burns’ immortal memory, an address to the lassies and a reply to the laddies (both of which are usually humorous and often outrageous). Auld Lang Syne, which Burns wrote the lyrics to, is sung to bring the celebration to a – generally whisky-soaked – close.


TRADITIONSPH

OTO

S: ©

VIS

IT S

CO

TLA

ND

/LU

IGI D

I PA

SQU

ALE

/IA

IN M

AST

ERTO

N/A

ND

REW

WIL

SON

/ALA

MY

4. CèilidhThe word cèilidh originally described any social gathering, not necessarily one with music and dancing. Today, though, a cèilidh would be incomplete without live folk music and organised traditional dances, often presided over by a caller who shouts out the steps.

Cèilidhs have long been used to facilitate courting and marriage, and although this is now outdated, many schools, universities and other organisations in Scotland still arrange cèilidhs on a regular basis. Though, arguably, the best remain impromptu.

3. Hogmanay Hogmanay may mark the passing of one year into the next, but it is far more involved than a simple New Year’s Eve party. December 31 in Scotland traditionally sees families “redding the house”, a custom that historically included sweeping out the ashes from the �re and carrying a smoking juniper branch from room to room to ward off evil spirits.

After midnight, “�rst footing” begins, with neighbours and friends visiting each other’s homes to bring whisky, coal and good luck. A tall, dark man is said to be the luckiest �rst visitor of the new year, a red-haired woman the least.

52 BRITAIN

TRADITIONS

PHO

TOS:

© V

ISIT

BRI

TAIN

/MEL

OD

Y T

HO

RNTO

N/I

AN

RU

TH

ERFO

RD/A

LAM

Y

5. The bagpipes Another traditionally Scottish item with unknown origins is the bagpipes. This woodwind instrument, now inextricably associated with a kilted Scottish �gure, has an uncertain history, with possible roots stretching back into the ancient Anatolian, Greek and Roman cultures. The Oxford History of Music even states that a sculpture of a bagpipe dating to around 1000BC has been found at Euyuk in modern day Turkey.

Today, though, by far the most famous version is the Great Highland bagpipe, which, like the kilt, has military associations. There are records of pipes being carried into battle by Scottish troops as early as the 14th century and as late as 1967, when the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders were piped into the Battle of the Crater during the Aden Emergency.

The bagpipes’ most common usage today is on ceremonial occasions, both military and civilian, with pipers appearing at everything from weddings to state banquets. The Queen even has her own personal piper, known as the Piper to the Sovereign, a post currently held by Pipe Major Richard Grisdale. Independent pipers are also frequently seen – and heard – at tourist sites, such as Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh and Stirling Castle, though many of these are little more than buskers.

6. Highland GamesThe �rst Highland Games were impromptu competitions held at clan gatherings and aimed at identifying the strongest, most able men. The �rst such event is thought to have been in the 11th century, when King Malcolm III of Scotland challenged men to run up Creag Choinnich, overlooking Braemar in the Cairngorms, with the aim of �nding the fastest man to be his messenger.

The oldest games still running is generally considered to be the Ceres Games in Fife, which dates back to 1314 when Robert the Bruce is said to have awarded the eponymous village with a charter in recognition of the peoples’ support in the Battle of Bannockburn. It features Highland dancing, pipe music, wrestling and the caber toss.


7. Haggis hurlingIf a Scot tells you this is an ancient custom, don’t believe a word of it! In 1977 Robin Dunseath announced the supposed “revival” of haggis hurling for the Gathering of the Clans in Edinburgh – but the self-appointed president of the World Haggis Hurling Association later admitted it was a hoax. All manner of rules are involved – the haggis must be of a certain weight, contestants must stand on a whisky barrel to throw, the Steward of the Heather must measure the throw and con�rm the haggis remains intact – but the most important is that all money raised must go to charity, which was Robin’s idea in the �rst place.

8. Blackening the groom Forget tying the groom-to-be to a lamppost. In northern Scotland a more ancient custom of covering the groom – and often, now, the bride too – in tar and feathers, or a similar more modern equivalent, sees couples paraded through the streets in disarray and discomfort to a cacophony of clanging pots and pans. The messier and more public, the better!

PHO

TOS:

© A

ND

REW

MIL

LIG

AN

/PA

ARC

HIV

E/PA

IMA

GES

/RO

NA

LD P

LET

T/SH

UT

TER

STO

CK

Find out more todayUK & ROW go to www.chelseamagazines.com/CBRTQ121

USA & Canada go to www.chelseamagazines.com/BRT1-G034S1USA & Canada 888-321-6378 (quote code K02SPA)

Rest of the World +44 (0) 1858 438878 (quote code CBRTQ121)

1 year (6 issues): UK £19.95 US $39.95 Canada $44.95 Aus $59.95

Subscribe & Enjoy every issue

Subscriberbene� tsSave on the shop price ev ry issueFree PostageworldwideNever miss an issue


Cerney House gardens is a romantic English garden for all seasons. There is a beautiful secluded Victorian walled

garden which is filled with herbaceous borders and overflowing plants. The end of January welcomes the arrival of our fabulous winter display of snowdrops and hellebores. A snowdrop trail guides you around our woodland packed with drifts of snowdrops. Enjoy Cerney House’s charm with

the apparent informality and tranquility.Open All year round: 10am-dusk.

Cerney House Gardens North Cerney Cirencester GL7 7BXTelephone: 01285831300

Email: [email protected] more details: www.cerneygardens.com

Cerney House Gardens Winter Snowdrop and Hellebore Trail

Abbey House GardensWith 1300 years of history, the first

King of England buried in the grounds, and now one of the great gardens of the world. This truly spectacular

5 acre garden is beside the 12th century Abbey Church in the centre of Medieval Malmesbury, straddling

the River Avon. A one of a kind treasure, having the largest private rose collection in Europe, and over

15,000 tulips planted annually. Being described as, “This garden alone is

worth a trip to the UK.’’2021 will see Cotswold Sculptors

Association back with an even more impressive indoor and outdoor

exhibition, building on their smashing success of the 2020 season. The

‘Creating Spaces’ Sculpture Exhibition takes place March 21st through

October 2021. The sprit of the place shines through and could be the best

garden visit you ever make. Available for Weddings, Groups & BNB.

For more information visit www.abbeyhousegardens.co.uk

T: +44 (0)1666 827650E: [email protected]

Sculpture Exhibition March 21st–

October 2021

SnowdropsColesbourne Park

Colesbourne Park is on the A435 halfwaybetween Cheltenham and Cirencester.

Telephone: +44 (0)1242 870264Email: [email protected]

For more information please see our website:www.colesbournegardens.org.uk

‘England’s greatest snowdropgarden’, in the heart of the Cotswolds,

is open to visitors on 6, 7, 11, 12,13, 14, 18, 19, 20 and 21 Februaryfrom 1pm. Guided tours for parties(minimum 20) by appointment on

other days, including a talk bySir Henry Elwes.


irencester began life as Corinium Dobunnorum, a Roman city whose 2nd-century walls encompassed the second-largest

area of any in Britain at the time. Almost 20 centuries later, the most panoramic window into its past can be found at the Corinium Museum, whose new interactive galleries will open imminently – pandemic allowing – following six years and a £1.87-million investment from the National Lottery Heritage Fund, sponsorships and donations. It showcases the history of the Cotswolds, starting with the hunter-gatherers of the StoneAge, who settled here 700,000 years ago, and continuing through the Neolithic, Bronze and Iron Ages to the early Roman period.

One part of the museum’s extensive collection, though, has being reliably drawing the crowds for well over a century. The building of the �rst Corinium Museum was funded by the 4th Earl Bathurst to house two mosaics, some of the �nest Roman survivals in Britain, which were discovered in 1849 during sewerage works in the town.

The Bathurst family have contributed to modern-day Cirencester in more prominent ways too. It was the �rst earl who laid out

the now Grade I-listed Cirencester Park. The estate comprises 15,000 acres and was partially designed by poet and landscape gardener, Alexander Pope.

Venturing away from its structured heart, rolling farmland offers you the chance to see the Cotswold countryside while staying in town, and new walking routes outline the best waymarked footpaths.

What you might not expect to �nd here are �ve life-sized model elephants, at home

in the grounds since October 2020, when Lady Bathurst, chatelaine of Cirencester Park, agreed to adopt them from Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall, who sought temporary homes for the 125-strong herd as part of an environmental art campaign. You can round off your surprisingly exotic excursion with a coffee from ‘Beano in the Park’ – Lady Bathurst’s horsebox-turned-café.

With Cirencester’s ancient history and rural roots covered, the cosmopolitan sights call. Whispering between the walls of humble former homes and unassuming streets, it can be easy to walk right through ghosts of Cirencester’s medieval, Georgian or Victorian past without realising it. This is where the town’s Civic Society can help.

C IRENCESTER

Known as the Capital of the Cotswolds, Cirencester is a

beguiling introduction to the delights of the wider region

WORDS JENNY ROWE

This image: Cirencester Park and the Bathurst Estate extend beyond the townBelow: 'Spring', as depicted in the Seasons Mosaic at the Corinium Museum

For a small donation, volunteers lead70-minute town walks, or you cancomplete a self-guided trail of plaques.

The blue and purple signs indicate a rangeof relics, such as the 17th-century Fleece Innon the Market Place, which from the turn ofthe 20th century onwards housed theworkshop of Ernest Gimson and ErnestBarnsley, architects, designers and membersof the Arts & Crafts movement. Previouslythe Sun Inn, it was also the place where thefuture King Charles II, �eeing after his defeatby Oliver Cromwell in 1651, got a fewnights’ kip disguised as manservant WillJackson. And that’s just one plaque!

A building you can’t miss is the stunningmedieval Parish Church of St John Baptist,a place of worship for more than 1,000 years,which is more cathedral-like with its elaboratefan-vaulted ceilings and airy proportions.

The church’s intricate south porch providesthe backdrop to Cirencester’s many markets.On Mondays and Fridays you will encounterits famous Charter Market, mentioned in theDomesday Book. Now there are also twicemonthly farmers’ and arts and crafts markets,as well as a popular Christmas market.

From Cirencester, all the charms of theCotswolds are at your �ngertips, and garden-lovers in particular will �nd the wider area adelight. A short drive southwest brings you tothe enchanting Westonbirt Arboretum, one ofthe �nest collections of trees in the world.A little east, the Abbey House Gardens arestunning, with knot and herb gardens, ancientponds and over 2,000 different roses. NearbyRodmarton Manor has a series of gardenrooms, with some humorous topiary and astunning display of snowdrops: a breathtakingsight in February.

North of Cirencester is Colesbourne Park,which boasts England’s greatest snowdropgarden, with over 300 varieties. Nearby,another romantic spot for its masses ofsnowdrops is Cerney House Gardens,a magically rambling space set withina Victorian walled garden. Further east,complete your garden tour at Rousham House& Garden, whose landscaped gardens, laidout by William Kent in the 18th century, arecharmingly dotted with Longhorn cattle.

For more great things to see and do in the Cotswolds, see www.britain-magazine.com

WEEKENDER

PHO

TOS:

©A

NT

HO

NY

PAU

LPH

OTO

GR

APH

Y/T

HE

CO

RIN

IUM

MU

SEU

M/H

EMIS

/ALA

MY/

SEBA

STIA

NW

ASE

K/4

CO

RNER

S

THE PLANNER

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

Kemble is the nearest station and trains travel here directly from London taking about 1hr 15min. Bus no. 882 runs from Kemble into town about every hour, taking about 20min. Cirencester’s Civic Society lead daily town walks from April to October, or you can book a private tour online. www.thetrainline.com; www.bustimes.org; www.ccsoc.org.uk

EAT, DRINK, SLEEP

Located on a quiet residential street near the Market Place and church, the Corinium Hotel is a former Elizabethan wool merchant’s house with 15 characterful rooms. For a light lunch in town, head to New Brewery Arts, where you can also browse and buy works by independent artists, makers and designers, from jewellery to homeware. And to experience the roaring fire and friendly hospitality of a classic Cotswolds country pub, book a table at the four-star Crown Inn, a 15-minute drive away in the village of Frampton Mansell. www.coriniumhotel.com; www.newbreweryarts.org.uk; www.thecrowninn-cotswolds.co.uk

FURTHER INFORMATION

www.cotswolds.comi

Clockwise, from this image: The Parish Church of St John Baptist;

snowdrops at Colesbourne Park;

Cirencester's Market Place


Rousham represents the first phase of English landscape design, and remains almost as William Kent left it, one of

the few gardens of this date to have escaped alteration. Many features which delighted 18th century visitors to

Rousham are still in situ, such as the ponds and cascades in Venus’s Vale, the Cold Bath and seven-arched Praeneste, Townsend’s Building, the Temple of the Mill, and, on the

skyline, a sham ruin known as the ‘Eyecatcher’.OPEN: Daily from 10am, last admission 4.30pm. No

children under 15 and no dogs. Entry fee £8 per person.Tel: 01869 347110

Rousham, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX25 4QUwww.rousham.org

ROUSHAM HOUSE & GARDEN

www.kendallcars.comHead office: 34 Aldershot Road,Guildford GU2 8AF

Branches in: Ash, Camberley, Canterbury, Chertsey, Guildford, Leatherhead, New Malden, Raynes Park, Wandsworth, Wimbledon, Woking.

• Cars • Mercedes • BMW Mini • Hybrids • Multiseaters • 9 & 14 seaters • 9st Auto Mercedes

Family run self-drive hire business since 1969

T: +44 1483 574434 • F: +44 1483 534781E: [email protected]

Chose your size or style of vehicle to rent and either collect direct from our branch or - if you are flying into Gatwick or Heathrow –

let us meet you from your flight

RODMARTON MANORGLOUCESTERSHIRE

Open May to SeptemberWednesday and Saturday afternoons

www.rodmarton-manor.co.uk

Visit this 12th century building and see the newly restored

shrine of St David.Concerts • Refectory

Bookshops • Daily servicesDisabled access

Open 9am to 5pmPembrokeshire SA62 6RD

T: +44 (0) 1437 720202 E: [email protected]

St Davids Cathedral

www.stdavidscathedral.org.uk


GREAT BRITONS

he is the best-selling �ction writer of all time. Her 66 murder mysteries have sold more than 2 billion copies worldwide. Her super-sleuths Hercule Poirot and Miss Marple are household names. But the

inimitable Agatha Christie, Queen of Crime, might never have penned a detective novel at all were it not for a bit of sibling rivalry: “I bet you couldn’t,” her sister Madge goaded her.

But of course she could, and she did, and in January 1921 her debut landed on the shelves of British bookshops. One of her trademark tales of murder in an isolated country house, peppered with clues that kept readers guessing until the end, The Mysterious Affair at Styles was a hit with the critics. Among the various positive reviews,

however, there was one that particularly pleased its author. Having praised the novel “for dealing with poisons in a knowledgeable way” the Pharmaceutical Journal declared “Agatha Christie knows her job.”

For the crime writer was also quali�ed as a pharmacy dispenser, a role that had inspired her �rst foray into �ction. Having initially volunteered to nurse at the Red Cross Hospital in her home town at the start of the First World War – shortly before her marriage to Captain Archie Christie – she had later transferred to the hospital pharmacy, where she was introduced to the range of deadly toxins she would later deploy so skilfully in the name of murder: everything from strychnine to cyanide and arsenic.

There too she came to appreciate the deadly potential

�e mystery of ChristieAgatha Christie penned some of the world’s most famous crime novels,

but the real-life mystery of her own disappearance has never been solved WORDS FELICITY DAY

Left: A photograph of Agatha Christie by Walter Bird, mid-1950s Right: Agatha Christie's Georgian holiday home, Greenway, near Brixham in Devon


GREAT BRITONS

PHO

TOS:

©EV

ERET

T C

OLL

ECT

ION

INC

/ALA

MY/

NAT

ION

AL

TRU

ST IM

AG

ES/A

ND

REW

BU

TLE

R


GREAT BRITONS

in the most everyday of drugs, witnessing on one occasion a pharmacist make a terrible mistake – a simple miscalculation that resulted in a hazardously toxic dose. “He struck me,” she later remarked, “in spite of his cherubic experience, as possibly a rather dangerous man.”

The chemical know-how gleaned in those years of wartime service would seep into her novels again and again, poisons seeing off more than 80 � ctional victims – but it was by no means the only way that Christie’s own life experiences inspired her stories.

Born Agatha Miller in 1890, the gentri� ed world of the country house that she so warmly recreated for her readers was essentially that of her childhood: her family close, their home a Victorian villa in the south Devon resort of Torquay – the kind with a sweeping driveway, servants, conservatory and croquet lawn. And just like her � ctional households, the Millers had their share of problems; Christie and her mother struggled for money after her father’s early death in 1901 and her reckless, unpredictable older brother Monty was a drain on their resources.

“I think she just observed and absorbed pretty much everything that came her way,” says Laura Thompson, author of Agatha Christie: A Mysterious Life. “Then she let it inform her books. So readers get her essence, even if she didn’t intend them to.”

That’s especially true when it comes to the events of 1926 – famously an annus horribilis for the author. Grieving after the death of her mother, Christie was plunged into the depths of despair when Archie announced that he had fallen in love with another woman.

On a cold, dark night in December, she left the home they shared with their young daughter, abandoned her car some miles away and travelled to a spa hotel in Harrogate, where she checked in under the name of Archie’s mistress – unwittingly sparking a nationwide search and a media frenzy. Eventually recognised by staff, she was discovered 11 days after her disappearance, apparently suffering from amnesia.

An intensely private person, she never spoke about those missing days – the incident remained as much a mystery as anything she ever tapped out on her typewriter. But her anguish over her marriage break-up left its imprint on her work. “I have always felt that some of the books written afterwards were in� uenced by those events,” says Laura. “Books like Sad Cypress, Five Little Pigs and The Hollowdeal head-on with the danger and despair of love, and

Bottom left: Agatha Christie is reported missing in 1926 Centre: The entrance hall at Greenway Top right: 'Lost in Reverie', a portrait of Christie aged four by Douglas-John Connah, hangs in the Morning Room Bottom right: A collection of Christie's novels at Greenway


GREAT BRITONS

PHO

TOS:

© H

ULT

ON

ARC

HIV

E/G

ETT

Y/N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

IMA

GES

/AN

DRE

AS

VO

NE

EIN

SIED

EL/N

ICK

GU

TT

RID

GE


GREAT BRITONS

beneath the familiar cool style there are glimpses of real emotional depth.”

Christie would also make a departure from her famous ‘whodunnits’ in the wake of her divorce, writing a series of novels about ‘crimes of the heart’ for which she donned the protective cloak of a pseudonym, Mary Westmacott. In Celia, the protagonist of 1934’s Un�nished Portrait, who contemplates suicide after her husband leaves her, “we have more nearly than anywhere else a portrait of Agatha,” Max Mallowan, her second husband, later confessed.

An archaeologist, he and Christie met in 1930 at an excavation in Ur in Iraq and were married the same year. The author was no stranger to international travel – she had enjoyed a ‘season’ in Cairo in 1910 and a round-the-world tour with Archie in 1922, and had �rst travelled to the Baghdad region in 1928, ful�lling a life-long ambition to travel on the Orient Express.

After marrying Max, however, she would become a frequent visitor to the Near East. The colourful, exotic places she came to know and love were pressed into service as backdrops to novels like Death on the Nile and Murder in Mesopotamia, with her adventures powering some very famous plots – most notably 1934’s Murder on the Orient Express, inspired by a journey which “began in a thunderstorm, experienced �oods, heating breakdowns, border delays and hardships of every kind” before disgorging a weary Christie at her destination two days late.

Yet far-�ung locations never inspired her quite as much as the county of her childhood. If anywhere is Christie country, it’s Devon. “So many of the books are set there – Devon is her default setting, as it were, even though she doesn’t always spell it out,” Laura observes. Numerous real-life places were given �ctional alter-egos, like Burgh Island, famous as the remote ‘Soldier Island’ in And Then There Were None.

In 1938 she bought a holiday home in the area, and Greenway, too, was immortalised in print: Nasse House in Dead Man’s Folly is an almost exact replica of the property, with its boathouse and wooded grounds. Now in the hands of the National Trust, Greenway is one of the few ways for fans to get a glimpse of the life of the woman behind the world’s best-loved murder mysteries – along with the novels themselves, that is.

BOOK AHEAD

GREENWAY

Agatha Christie's Devon home is filled with her collections of ceramics, silver and books, including first editions of her novels. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/greenway

BURGH ISLAND

You can also visit Burgh Island, either on foot at low tide or via the sea tractor, and stay at the famous Art Deco Burgh Island Hotel, where Christie herself was a guest. www.burghisland.com

FURTHER INFORMATION

For more information on the author’s life, Agatha Christie: A Mysterious Life by Laura Thompson is published by Headline (£12.99).

i

Clockwise, from top: Palm Court at Burgh Island Hotel; Christie and her first husband, Colonel Archibald Christie, 1919; Burgh Island Hotel, where Christie once stayed, is located on a tidal island in South Devon


PHO

TOS:

© V

ICTO

RIA

GIB

BS/E

VER

ETT

CO

LLEC

TIO

N IN

C/A

LAM

Y/RI

CH

ARD

DO

WN

ER P

HO

TOG

RA

PHY

For more must-see Devon attractions go to www.britain-

magazine.com


Louisa White Travel was founded out of a desire toshare my passion for Britain with friends and family, which quickly turned into bookings for their friends and family, and the rest just came naturally. I named my travel agency after my glamorous great-great grandmother, a small Spitfire of a woman who never turned down a travel adventure.

Whether you want to delve into your ancestry, immerse yourself in British history, indulge your passion for stately homes or explore the English countryside, a Louisa White experience is completely bespoke – I will pack your itinerary with experiences and excursions that are personally meaningful. I let your interests, passions, and personal travel style lead the way. I will handle every aspect of your experience from the moment you step out your door until you return home – travel when you want, how you want and without any of the stress.

This means that at Louisa White we are high-touch planners, deeply invested in your experience, whether you book a small-group trip (up to 14

dinners and relaxed breakfasts.By keeping groups small, there is better

camaraderie amongst travellers, and we are able to secure accommodation in boutique, four- and five-star properties that truly evoke the destination. Forget chain hotels on the outskirts of town; you’ll stay in prime locations.

Whether a country house hotel on the Yorkshire moors, a cosy coaching inn nestled amongst antique shops and galleries in the heart of a Cotswold village, or a glamorous hotel in London’s Mayfair, you are sure to fall in love with my hand-selected properties.To find out more about Louisa White Travel, please visit www.louisawhite.com

people) or a private bespoke tour. There is far moreto see than just the main sites, and we like a good challenge when it comes to arranging bespoke special interest tours, from gardens to gastronomy.

After years of planning and organising tours, I have come to realise that there are several key things that make a trip to Britain extraordinary. Slower travel, later starts, a positive impact on the communities we visit, and the chance to go beyond the postcards and see authentic Britain. Slower travel means no more packing and unpacking every day. We allow you to slow down and relax by establishing a home base – only changing hotels once or twice depending on the length of travel.

You also won’t be rushing through breakfast every morning since we have later starts to the days and shorter drives to get to our daily destinations. No more packing and unpacking every 48 hours, no more sitting in the bus for hours every day, and no more scarfing down your breakfasts. Home base + late starts + shorter drives = guilt-free, leisurely

I O N

H IN

US-based British travel expert Rachel Shoemaker explains why A-list travel partners and a full-service approach can add up to e� ortless adventure on your next British holiday


PROMOTION

This image: The State Apartment

at Blenheim PalaceOpposite page:

Highclere Castle

Britain in Bloom 2021 Here is a taste of one of Louisa White Travel’s upcoming tours

The Britain in Bloom 2021 tour will spend six nights in the charming Cotswolds, exploring quaint villages, beautiful palaces and fragrant gardens. The final three nights are spent in delightful St James’s, the true heart of London.Throughout the 10-day tour, you will stay in hand-selected, four- and five-star hotels, while meals will include five luxury afternoon teas. As with all tours, you will enjoy the “Louisa White Difference” – slower travel, later starts, a positive impact on the communities you visit, and a chance to go beyond the postcards and explore authentic Britain.

Highlights of the Britain in Bloom 2021 holiday will include:

● A tour of the stunning Cliveden House in Buckinghamshire, detailing the house’s long

history of scandal and intrigue, followed by a private afternoon tea overlooking the grounds [pictured right]● A Downton Abbey-themed day, visiting the village of Bampton which featured in the TV series, as well as a tour of Highclere Castle – which you may know as “Downton Abbey” itself● A private tour of Blenheim Palace’s State Rooms before they are open to the public for the day, followed by a specialist talk about the estate’s Capability Brown-designed gardens● A trip to Hidcote Manor’s world-famous Arts & Crafts-style gardens, complete with afternoon tea in the picturesque Cotswolds village of Burford● A chance to tour the gardens and have lunch at Highgrove, the country home of Prince Charles and Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall

● A choice between a sightseeing tour of London that will visit Big Ben, St Paul’s Cathedral, Tower Bridge and more, or a foodie tour of the capital with the chance to taste the Queen’s favourite chocolates● A private after-hours visit to the Tower of London to see the Crown Jewels

The Grade I-listed Guildhall in HadleighRight: Wonky houses on the high street in Lavenham, one of the country's best-preserved medieval villages

BRITAIN 69

RURAL BRITAIN


Travel back i uff wool towns, thriving centres of the woven cloth trade in the Middle Ages

WORDS MONICA WOODS

I

PHO

TOS:

© M

ARK

SU

ND

ERLA

ND

PH

OTO

GR

APH

Y/A

LAM

Y/A

LAN

CO

PSO

N/A

WL

IMA

GES

Clockwise from this image: Hadleigh Guildhall and St Mary's churchyard; St Peter's Church in Sudbury on market day; an antiques shop in Long Melford

BRITAIN 71

RURAL BRITAIN

pend a long weekend in a certain patch of southern Suffolk, nestled along the River Stour and its tributaries, and you’d be forgiven for thinking you had slipped back in time. The � ve

towns of Sudbury, Lavenham, Long Melford, Clare and Hadleigh seem to encapsulate an England of yesteryear, with their market squares, winding streets lined with crooked timber-framed houses and often disproportionately grand churches.

These ‘wool towns’ owe their architectural appeal to the boom and bust they experienced as centres of the medieval wool trade. In the 15th century, these quiet villages became hubs of feverish industry, with much of the work to produce woollen cloth taking place within local people’s homes. As the region � ourished, impressivehouses, guildhalls and churches sprang up – and almost all remain standing, a consequence of the sharp decline that followed the boom.

The bustling market town of Sudbury is a natural gateway to the area, with its proximity to Colchester and fast rail connections to London. It lies roughly at the midpoint of the � ve wool towns, prettily located on the River Stour. Location and transport links were key to

PHO

TOS:

© G

REG

BA

LFO

UR

EVA

NS/

SIM

PLY

SU

FFO

LK IM

AG

ES/A

LAM

Y/IL

LUST

RAT

ION

: © M

ATT

HEW

WA

LKER

Sudbury’s success; the wealth that the wool trade generated is clear to see in the imposing St Peter’s Church and handsome timber-framed merchants’ houses along Stour Street.

Textile manufacture is still thriving in Sudbury today – in fact, the town is known as England’s Silk Capital. When demand for woollen cloth started to dwindle in the 16th century, enterprising Sudbury weavers found a new outlet for their expertise, turning � rst to lighter fabrics such as cotton and crepe. Silk weaving followed, as the industry � rst established by French Huguenots arriving in east London in the 17th century moved out to East Anglia.

Wandering around the town, look out for terraces of three-storey silk weavers’ cottages. Large windows on the � rst � oor were designed to admit as much light as possible onto this workroom space, where silk thread was hand-wound and looms operated. Today, there are � ve companies continuing this long tradition, including Stephen Waters & Sons, which made silk for the wedding dresses of both Princess Diana and Princess Anne.

Sudbury’s most famous son, Thomas Gainsborough (whose father was a weaver), found inspiration for his acclaimed landscape paintings in the surrounding

� e � ve towns of Sudbury, Lavenham, Long Melford, Clare

and Hadleigh seem to encapsulate an England of yesteryear


RURAL BRITAIN

PHO

TOS:

©IR

INA

PALE

Y/M

IKE

BOO

TH

/ALA

MY/

AN

DRE

WM

ICH

AEL

/RO

BERT

HA

RDIN

G

countryside. The tranquil, ancient water meadows on three sides of the town also crop up in Constable’s paintings. The artist’s bronze likeness, palette in hand, continues to survey the town from Market Hill, just outside St Peter’s Church.

Incidentally, author Dodie Smith lived just outside Sudbury and featured St Peter’s in 101 Dalmatians (1956). The dalmation duo, Pongo and Missis, head to Suffolk from London to track down their missing puppies and stop en route for a drink at the church fountain.

A short drive or bus ride northwest takes you to the almost absurdly charming, quintessential Suffolk wool town of Lavenham. With Grade I- and II-listed, and listing, buildings at almost every turn – half-timbered and painted in a cheering range of ochres, pinks and greys – this is one of the country’s best-preserved medieval villages.

Of course, Lavenham owes its time-warp charm to its changing fortunes. The town prospered thanks to the trade of its woollen cloth, Lavenham ‘Blew’. Using woad imported from Toulouse, raw wool was dyed prior to spinning (hence the phrase ‘dyed in the wool’). The spun yarn was then woven into broadcloth whose deep blue

and high quality proved extremely popular, with the fabric exported as far a�eld as Russia.

By 1524, Lavenham was the 14th richest town in the country, paying more tax than cities like Lincoln or York. Wool merchants built themselves �ne houses and helped fund the construction of the Guildhall of Corpus Christi and the Church of St Peter and St Paul, with its soaring 141-foot tower.

From these dizzy heights, though, Lavenham’s fortunes plummeted as tastes changed, exports were affected by military campaigns and cheaper European cloth-making techniques gained ground. During the 200 years of poverty that followed, many of the wealthy clothiers’ grand houses were divided up to accommodate multiple families. Thankfully, their exteriors were left untouched. Look out for motifs in the plasterwork, �rst-�oor ‘jetties’ jutting out over the ground �oor, and wicket gates, in addition to an often-comical wonkiness – caused by the green oak timber frames warping over time.

And so it is that on a fascinating guided walk around Lavenham today, you can admire the Swan Hotel (a former coaching inn, guildhall and wool hall), Molet House, once visited by Elizabeth I, De Vere House (which stood in for

BRITAIN 73

RURAL BRITAIN


the boy wizard’s birthplace in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows), the tiny market keeper’s cottage, and any number of picturesque dwellings behind whose carved wooden doors at least half of the population once busied themselves with cloth-making.

While in the village, you can visit the beautiful 5-acre private garden of Lavenham Hall (by appointment only), now the home and studios of sculptor Kate Denton, whose works can be found dotted around the garden and in her gallery.

Walking from Lavenham to Long Melford, much of the way sheltered along an old railway cutting, gives you the chance to fully appreciate the beautiful Suffolk countryside. With the crunch of windfalls underfoot, hedgerows dotted with bright red haws and rose hips and tangles of old man’s beard, it’s easy to see what so entranced Gainsborough and Constable.

Long Melford is less clustered than Lavenham, with its similarly pretty houses, pubs and many galleries arranged in a long sweep taking in an outstanding church and the National Trust’s Melford Hall. At the northerly tip, don’t miss the Tudor manor of Kentwell Hall, set back from the main street by a stately drive lined with ancient lime trees.

Clockwise, from this image: The Tudor

Kentwell Hall; Holy Trinity Church at

Long Melford; Clare, Suffolk's smallest town


RURAL BRITAIN

THE PLANNER

GETTING THERE

Greater Anglia trains run from London Liverpool Streetto Sudbury via Marks Tey (1hr 20min). There are good local busservices connecting the main towns. www.greateranglia.co.uk;www.suffolkonboard.com

WHERE TO STAY

The Swan at Lavenham is a well-established favourite,with cosy nooks in the ground-floor lounge area and mullionedwindows and beamed ceilings in its comfortable rooms.A complimentary dip in the outdoor vitality pool is includedfor overnight guests. www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk

WHERE TO EAT

There’s fine dining at the Swan’s Gallery Restaurant, withan à la carte menu featuring many fresh local ingredients. Head tothe Airmen’s Bar for a nightcap surrounded by Second World Warmemorabilia, in honour of the US servicemen who were based atRAF Lavenham. For tea and cakes, the spread at Kentwell’s PaddockTea Gardens is hard to beat; vintage-themed The StrawberryTeapot in Sudbury also serves delicious sweet treats and lightlunches. www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk; www.kentwell.co.uk;www.thestrawberryteapot.co.uk

FURTHER INFORMATION

Due to the pandemic, some sights may be closed;check sights’ websites or with the tourist board beforevisiting for the latest information. www.visitsuffolk.com

i

The original owners, the wealthy Clopton family, channelled their pro� ts from the wool trade into rebuilding Long Melford’s Holy Trinity Church, with its stunning collection of medieval stained glass, before turning attention to their own abode. The result was a splendid red-brick turreted manor house, with a full moat and moat house.

Fast forward around 400 years and the current owners,Patrick and Judith Phillips, bought Kentwell in an uninhabitable state. While the house remains closed to visitors for now, the couple’s remarkable restoration efforts are more than evident in the magical gardens. There is plenty to see, including playful topiary, a yew castle and, in the potager, gnarled apple and pear trees with evocative names, such as Orleans Reinette, Lemon Pippin and Norfolk Bee� ng. Plus, the moat teems with carp, the dovecote is a-� utter, a lone peacock stalks and there’s a traditional working farm.

Heading a short distance west from Long Melford brings you to the thatched cottages and picture-perfect village green of Cavendish and then on to Clare, Suffolk’ssmallest town. Here, the legacy of the wool trade is clear in the attractive medieval centre, including the Gothic church and Clare Ancient House Museum, with its ornatepargeting. The museum considers the town’s long history,both before and after the booming wool trade period.

In the other direction lies the � fth and � nal wool town,the larger hub of Hadleigh. Some medieval timber houseswere refronted in Victorian times but the town is still proudly positioned around three Grade I-listed buildings that hail from the wool trade era: the turreted Deanery Tower, Guildhall and St Mary’s Church.

Above: St Mary the Virgin's Church and thatched cottages in Cavendish

PHO

TO:©

ALA

N C

OPS

ON

/RO

BERT

HA

RDIN

G

For more on what to see and do in

beautiful Suffolk, visit www.britain-

magazine.com


HOW TO ENTER

TERMS AND CONDITIONSClosing date for entries is 12pm GMT 9 March 2021. The prize is fortwo people sharing a double or twin en-suite room and is subject toavailability. The prize must be taken by 28 February 2022, excludingweeks with UK bank and school holidays, 1 December 2021-3 January2022 and 14 February 2022. The winner and guest must be over 18.For full terms and conditions go to www.britain-magazine.com/competitions/theswan

WIN

For your chance to win this fantasticprize go to www.britain-magzaine.com/competitions/theswanto apply online or fill in the couponbelow with the answer to the followingquestion:

Q: What is the name of the barat The Swan at Lavenham?a) The Airmen’s Barb) The Airforce Barc) The Army Bar

Set in the medieval wool town ofLavenham, the striking 15th-century SwanHotel & Spa, a member of Pride of Britain

Hotels, is a luxurious retreat in the heart ofsleepy Suffolk (p68). With its half-timberedfacade, oak-beamed interiors, open �res andcosy nooks, the hotel combines its traditionalarchitecture with contemporary styling. Each ofits 45 bedrooms and suites has been individuallydesigned to complement their unique features;some enjoy views over the medieval courtyard,while others overlook the historic high street.

The Swan is also home to Weavers’ House Spa,a haven of tranquillity with six treatment rooms,a steam room, sauna and an outdoor vitalitypool all on-site.

Our winner and their guest will enjoy atwo-night stay at The Swan, with a 30-minutesession in Weavers’ vitality pool included.The prize also includes a full Suffolk breakfasteach morning and a three-course dinner on oneevening in the elegant Gallery restaurant, whichtakes its name from the minstrels’ gallery setamong the oak beams. With a focus on quality,local ingredients and a talented team of chefs,a meal here is a feast of modern British �avours.

The contemporary Brasserie 487 providesa more informal option. Light meals are also

ENTRY FORMSEND YOUR COUPON TO: US readers – The Swan Competition,C/O Circulation Specialists, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton CT 06484UK and Rest of World readers – The Swan Competition, BRITAIN magazine,The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK

My answer:

Name:

Address:

Postcode:

Tel no: Email:

offered in the Airmen’s Bar, which is full ofSecond World War memorabilia from the USArmy Airforce, who were stationed nearby. Onwarmer days, lunch, afternoon tea or cocktailsare served in the private courtyard and gardens– the perfect setting in which to relax after yourexploration of Lavenham’s heritage buildings.www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk,www.prideofbritainhotels.com

COMPETITION

Please tick if you are happy to receive relevant information about new products or services from the competition partners via email ,post , or phone , and/or The Chelsea Magazine Company via email , post , or phone

A LUXURY STAY AT SUFFOLK'S HISTORIC SWAN HOTEL


Lavenham Hall Galler y & Sculpture Garden

Art Lovers and Gardeners Don’t miss Lavenham’s hidden gem!

Gallery and 5 acre sculpture garden.The home and studios of sculptor

Kate Denton Visits STRICTLY by appointment

Contact: www.katedenton.com / dentonsculpture @aol.com Kentwell Hall • Long Melford • Suffolk CO10 9BAwww.kentwell.co.uk

Extensive natural Gardens surround this beautifulmellow redbrick Tudor mansion in mid Suffolk,

dominated by its moats.Enjoy tranquil walks amidst majestic Cedars and

greatYews, boasting unusual topiary large and small.In spring, lovely snowdrop carpets followed by

massed daffodils.

Contact: Neville & Harding

Telephone: +44 (0)7962 902751

Email: [email protected]

Softback (postage included)UK £16.50 US $29.99

First edition hardback (p&p inc) UK £24.99 US $37.50

Other countriesCanada/New Zealand/Australia

(as US) Europe (as UK).


CITY GUIDEPH

OTO

: © V

ISIT

BRI

TAIN

/RO

D E

DW

ARD

S. IL

LUST

RAT

ION

: © L

IZ K

AY

Once regarded as the second city of the British Empire, today this maritime city is a thriving cultural centre

WORDS CHRIS FAUTLEY

I n 1886, the Illustrated London News proclaimed, “It is the New York of Europe, a world-city”. The city in

question was Liverpool – the place that, according to Disraeli, was the “second city of the Empire”. Yet he was referring to somewhere that in the early 17th century hardly existed at all, doing little more than living up to its old English meaning of ‘creek of muddy water’. But over the next 400 years, that creek evolved to become a surging torrent of a city. A city that was to be the beating heart of transatlantic trade; a city that has given us some of Britain's most jaw-dropping architecture; and memorable music – the Mersey Sound.

Liverpool's ascendency began in the 1640s with the arrival of the first cargoes of sugar, rum, cotton and tobacco from the Americas.

In 1715, the first dock was completed; by 1840, Liverpool had become the principal port for transatlantic liners. In 1900, it was estimated that almost 15 per cent of the world's shipping was registered to Liverpool-based companies.

Changes in the pattern of trade inevitably led to the decline of both dock and warehouses. However, they are far from redundant: these days the Albert Dock area is a thriving cultural quarter, home to world-class museums and galleries.

Culture, history, heritage... Liverpool is justifiably bursting with pride. Yet the city has been hit hard by the coronavirus crisis, and is under heavy restrictions at the time of writing. But with its signature confidence and optimism, the city will rise again, as it has throughout its long history.

LIVERPOOLTOP 10


2 Liverpool Cathedral Feathers are not required to enjoy a liver bird’s view of Liverpool, but it takes two lifts and 108 stairs to

reach the top of the Anglican cathedral’s 331ft tower. The cathedral was only completed in 1978, almost 75 years after work commenced. At more than 104,000sq ft it is, as be�ts Liverpool, the largest Anglican cathedral in Britain. www.liverpoolcathedral.org.uk

1 Royal Liver Building A high point of the World Heritage Site waterfront, the Royal

Liver (pronounced ligh-ver) Building was built in 1908. Its twin clock towers tickle the clouds at 295ft: perched atop each is an 18ft high copper liver bird – Liverpool’s own heraldic bird. An audiovisual experience inside explores the building’s history, while there are stunning views from the 15th-�oor viewing point. www.rlb360.com

4 Royal Albert Dock The vibrant heart of the docks that were so crucial to Liverpool’s success, the Royal Albert Dock was opened by the prince of the same

name in 1846. The warehouses are �lled with history: this is England’s largest collection of Grade I-listed buildings, today �lled with museums, restaurants, bars and shops. www.albertdock.com

3Mersey ferry Liverpool is built on its docks and its river – the Mersey. And an apt way to see them is from a Mersey ferry. There has been a ferry here

since at least Domesday; these days they run as both a traditional ferry service from Pierhead to Seacombe and also, with visitors in mind, as river cruises. www.merseyferries.co.uk


PHO

TOS:

©TA

TE

LIV

ERPO

OL/

RA

CH

ELRY

AN

PHO

TOG

RA

PHY/

DA

ZZ

LE F

ERRY

/VIS

ITBR

ITA

IN

7 St George’s Hall When completed in 1854, St George’s Hall in the city centre was considered the world’s �nest Neoclassical building. Resembling a temple, it was built as a showpiece public venue for music

festivals and similar gatherings. Until the 1980s it also housed the Crown and civil courts, and is an acknowledged meeting place: 25,000 Liverpudlians, and others, gathered here when John Lennon’s death was announced. www.stgeorgeshallliverpool.co.uk

5 Tate Liverpool Housed in a former warehouse in Albert Dock, Tate Liverpool is home to the National Collection of Modern Art in

the North, and is the most-visited art museum in northern England. There’s plenty to see, with four �oors of galleries displaying works from Picasso to Mondrian, not to mention great Mersey views. www.tate.org.uk

6Walker Art Gallery Holding one of the most important collections of art in the country outside London, the Walker Art Gallery is a gem. Spend an afternoon taking

in beautifully displayed paintings, including masterpieces by Turner, Stubbs and Rubens, as well as sculpture and decorative art. www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk


CITY GUIDE

80 BRITAIN

PHO

TOS:

© N

ATIO

NA

L T

RUST

IMA

GES

/AN

DRE

AS

VO

N E

INSI

EDEL

/PET

E C

ARR

/VIS

ITBR

ITA

IN/R

OBE

RT E

VA

NS/

ALA

MY

THE PLANNER

GETTING THERE

There’s a fast train service from London Euston to Liverpool Lime Street, which takes 2hr 15min. www.thetrainline.com

WHERE TO STAY

Titanic Hotel in the Stanley Dock conservation area is housed in a renovated warehouse, with each bedroom retaining its original windows. There’s an indulgent spa and the hotel boasts its own rum bar in a nod to the city’s past role in the trade route. www.titanichotelliverpool.com

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Named after Sir Peter Blake of Beatles album cover fame, the restaurant within the Hard Day Night Hotel has walls adorned with Fab Four memorabilia and serves British dishes with a local twist. www.harddaysnighthotel.com

WHERE TO SHOP

If there’s one thing Liverpudlians know how to do, it’s shop. The upmarket Cavern Walks are home to designers such as Vivienne Westwood; the bohemian Bold Street is one of Britain's best shopping parades; while Harvey Nichols is the ultimate luxury department store.

8 Speke Hall This timber-framed Tudor manor is surrounded by stunning gardens overlooking the Mersey. It was built by the devout Norris family (a hidden priest’s hole attests to their

forbidden Catholic beliefs) and has a turbulent 500-year history. Highlights include over 200 pieces of carved oak furniture and early examples of original William Morris wallpapers. www.nationaltrust.org.uk

10World Museum This excellent and ambitious museum tells the story of millions of years of the Earth’s history through thousands of absorbing exhibits. Journey back

in time to ancient Egypt, examine highlights of the museum’s vast natural history collection, blast off into outer space in the planetarium or see a colourful array of tropical �sh in the aquarium. www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk

9 The Beatles Liverpool without the Beatles is rather like bread without butter. ‘Mendips’, where John Lennon lived

with his Aunt Mimi, and 20 Forthlin Road – home of Paul McCartney – are now in the care of the National Trust. Other Fab Four sites include the Cavern Club, where they played their earliest gigs, the Beatles Story attraction and Strawberry Field, recently opened to the public for the �rst time. www.cavernclub.com; www.beatlesstory.com; www.strawberry�eldliverpool.com


HIDDEN GEMS

PHO

TOS:

© S

OM

ERLE

YTO

N H

ALL

Somerleyton Hall hunkers handsomely in 12 acres of ornamental gardens amid the broad, �at landscape of East Anglia. A Jacobean manor built in 1610, it was elaborately

remodelled as an Italianate mansion by the Victorian entrepreneur Sir Samuel Morton Peto, who for years was the biggest employer of labour in the world; his construction �rm built many of London’s most famous buildings and monuments, including Nelson’s Column and the Houses of Parliament.

No expense was spared: Peto chose Prince Albert’s architect John Thomas to transform the house, and paintings were specially commissioned for its interior. One of the two towers that dominates the facade has a clock by Benjamin Vulliamy, whose design was originally entered in a competition for the clocktower at the Houses of Parliament (losing out, of course, to Big Ben).

Peto appointed the celebrated landscape gardener William Andrews Nes�eld to work on the grounds, which boast a sweeping arboretum, a walled garden and a charming sunken white garden, as well as a yew hedge maze, one of Britain’s �nest.

But Peto had overspent and was forced to sell his lavishly appointed home before sliding into bankruptcy. The Crossley family, who had made their name and their fortune in carpets and politics, were the lucky buyers. Sir Francis Crossley bought the house in 1861 and his descendants live here still.

The current owners, Hugh Crossley, 4th Baron Somerleyton, and his wife, Lara, Lady Somerleyton, have extensively renovated the interior, and a tour of the rooms – which bear witness to the house’s

Jacobean origins as well as its Victorian revamp – is a treat. The domed and wood-panelled entrance hall holds two towering stuffed polar bears, teeth bared – trophies from the 1st Baron Somerleyton’s 1897 trip to the Arctic. The Ballroom is an opulent high Victorian style statement, while the Oak Parlour is lined with panelling from the original house, which used trees grown on the Somerleyton estate.

But this is one stately home whose offering extends beyond the usual tours and tea. You can now stay in the hall itself, if you’re prepared to rent it out in its entirety (for the princely sum of £7,765 per night), or rather more affordably on the shores of Fritton Lake, an idyllic forest-fringed strip of water on the estate, transformed into an upmarket holiday club with cottages and cabins to rent, and charming rooms in the on-site pub, the Fritton Arms.

Fritton Lake is also the focus of a pioneering new project. Lord Somerleyton, a passionate conservationist, has given over 1,000 acres of land around the lake to ‘re-wilding’. This swathe of land dotted with ancient oaks has essentially been given back to nature, restoring the natural ecosystems and introducing new species. Wild Exmoor ponies, Welsh black pigs and deer roam freely, and all manner of birds, from cormorants to king�shers, �it along the lake’s verdant banks.

Long before the hall was built and the gardens laid out, Vikings settled in this tract of ancient woodland and called it ‘Lovingland’. Thanks to this project that will restore the land to its natural state, the name is now imbued with a new signi�cance.

This splendid Victorian house and estate on the border between Norfolk and Suffolk is the focus of a pioneering new conservation project

WORDS NATASHA FOGES

Somerleyton Hall

britain - 01 01 2021

Documents