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3/22/2015 Bone broths an ageold elixir of youth Features | The Star Online
http://www.thestar.com.my/Lifestyle/Food/Features/2015/03/22/Bonebrothsanageoldelixirofyouth/?page=0#pb 1/9
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Published: Sunday March 22, 2015 MYT 12:00:00 AM
Updated: Sunday March 22, 2015 MYT 8:19:36 AM
Bone broths an age-old elixir ofyouthBY LOUISA LIM
The collagen soup at Bone & Pot combines the restaurant’s signature chickenbonederived stock and cubesof milky white collagen shipped over from Osaka, Japan. Photos: SAMUEL ONG and RICKY LAI/The Star
There’s a new fixerupper in town, and it promises everything from wrinklefreeskin to a healthy gut.
THE new trendy diet that is the fixation of certain Hollywood stars is not actually new atall. In fact, it's old – very old – as Annie Mok from Kampar, Perak can attest.
“My mother learned it from her mother, who in turn learned it from her mother,” says
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3/22/2015 Bone broths an ageold elixir of youth Features | The Star Online
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Mok. “We don’t actually know where the recipe came from or how it evolved.”
We’re talking about bone broths.
Bone broth is to Annie Mok what peanut butter and jelly sandwiches are to most Americans: a childhood staple.
This humble dish was once a culinary staple in many homes including Mok’s. “I hadsoup with almost every meal,” says the business operations manager and food bloggerof Annielicious Food. “The ingredients varied from time to time but it would always beboiled from bones.”
Grandma saw it as a source of nutrition, says Mok, not unlike many Chinese at thetime. “She always tells me that drinking it will make a woman younger and prettier.”
Mok’s grandmother was onto something, all right. It’s called collagen, the highproteinconnective tissues found in animal bones. A powerhouse of vitamins and minerals,collagen has been credited for everything from shinier hair to dewier complexions.
Fast forward several decades and this old curative is experiencing a renaissance.Dubbed the new miracle water by healthconscious proponents, these steaming stewshave become a favourite of wellknown individuals like Kobe Bryant and GwynethPaltrow. It has also elbowed its way into restaurant menus across the world.
In New York, the fashionable and hipsterish masses are flocking to the city’s firstdedicated bone broth specialist, Brodo, where stocks are served Starbucksstyle, intakeaway cups. In Japan, Taiwan and Singapore, the same soups are being marketedas beauty elixirs in ramen bars and hotpot restaurants.
It’s no different back home.
At Shabuton Tei, a casual Japanese eatery that opened in Kota Damansara last year,young female patrons can usually be seen tucking into collagen shabushabu at all
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3/22/2015 Bone broths an ageold elixir of youth Features | The Star Online
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hours of the day. This meat and seafoodladen steamboat, with its velvety stewboasting “pure collagen” extracted from chicken carcasses as well as pork femurs andknuckles – all parts with an abundance of cartilage, gelatin and marrow – is served withor without limitededition slivers of 24karat gold to amp up its alleged beautyboostingbenefits.
The collagen soup at Shabuton is distilled from bones as well as fruits and vegetables.
To make what the restaurant calls its “leng lui buo” (pretty girl brew), bones are firstthrown into a large boiling vat of purified water together with salt as well as little sachetscontaining the restaurant’s six secret ingredients and cooked for at least 12 hours at aprecise temperature, then rested and kept overnight in a chiller.
It arrives at the table resembling JellO; but will soon revert back to broth once it’sheated up. Diners, who are encouraged to take the first sip from a teacup, will find itrich and warming, salty but addictive, like something you’d crave when you’re notfeeling well.
The soup is a concoction of Chef Kanji Fujine, who mastered the art of broth brewingduring his eight years as a ramen chef at the legendary Taishoken in downtown Tokyo.Fujine, who can often be seen sipping the stuff from time to time while he works(“quality control,” he says), claims the collagen craze took off in Japan about five yearsago.
“It started with the pharmacies. Ladies were buying collagen supplements and topicalointments off the shelves. However, they’re realising you can get collagen the natural
3/22/2015 Bone broths an ageold elixir of youth Features | The Star Online
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way, through soups and stocks.”
Shabuton Tei's collagen shabushabu is served with limitededition slivers of 24karat gold to amp up its allegedbeautyboosting benefits.
Fujine San, who claims the original Japanese soup is saltier and oilier, spent monthsexperimenting in the kitchen to come up with a lighter version that would appeal moreto Malaysians.
And these days, even the men want some. Says Shabuton’s spokesperson JaniceChiu: “Just the other day, a group of male diners said they found our place aftergoogling for collagen broth.”
To cash in on this fad, Hong Konginspired steamboat restaurant Bone & Pot, whichhas multiple branches across the Klang Valley, has recently introduced collagen soupto its usual repertoire of broths. With its tagline ‘the perfect hotpot recipe for beauty and
3/22/2015 Bone broths an ageold elixir of youth Features | The Star Online
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confidence’, this special stew – which is also served in a gelatinous form but with anaside of Chinese herbs such as red dates and wolfberries – combines the restaurant’ssignature chickenbonederived stock and cubes of milky white collagen shipped overfrom Osaka, Japan.
Processed from fish scales – restaurant owner Mike Cheam prefers to keep anyknowledge of the preparation method to himself – the collagen jelly imparts a subtletaste when added to the broth.
Cheam, who spent many years as a restaurateur in Hong Kong, says he got the ideafor the collagen soup on a working trip to Japan and Taiwan. “My brother and I were onthe lookout for something new, and we saw how popular collagen was,” he says,adding that he now sells four to five bowls of the stuff per day.
NEXT: What do the experts say? Plus, a recipe for collagen soup.
The congealed bone stock that Annie Mok makes at home using her greatgrandmother's recipe.
Demand for collagen soup is still low in Malaysia, reveals Cheam, because its jellylikeappearance puts people off.
“They are under the impression that it has a higher fat content, but the truth is that anyfat or sediment are ladled out as soon as they float to the surface in the boilingprocess.” As such, collagen soup isn’t fattier than other bone broths.
The payoff? A range of antiageing benefits, from the reduction of wrinkles to theshrinking of pores, at least according to the product brochures available in therestaurant.
This view is echoed by Jasmine and Melissa Hemsley, Londonbased healthfoodwriters who, in their highly acclaimed book The Art Of Eating Well, lists out a number ofrecipes for bone broths.
“It is delicious. Natural fats and animal bones are a significant form of protein, collagen,vitamins and minerals — broth is a nourishing allrounder that is amazing for skin, hairand even dreaded cellulite. It is instrumental in maintaining a healthy gut and an easytodigest source of energy that doesn’t make you crash or give you jitters like caffeine,”says the sisters in a recent interview with UK paper The Guardian.
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Aesthetic practitioner Dr Liow Tiong Sin says that, while collagen soups are certainlynutrientrich, claims that it could work wonders have not been verified scientifically.“Animal protein contains sufficient amounts of all kinds of essential amino acids for ourbodies, and collagen is no different. You can get the same benefits from eating proteinrich foods like meat and cheeses.”
Still, people keep coming back for more. Nutritionist Kong Si Mun drops by a hotpotrestaurant at least once or twice a month to get her collagen fix and swears by the stuff.
“Frankly, it looked quite unappetising when I first saw it,” says Kong who, only last year,made the switch from popping collagenrich pills to slurping bone broths while pregnantwith her first child. “It turned out to be quite delicious.”
Meanwhile, Mok prefers making collagen soup at home, the way the women in herfamily used to do when she was growing up; she now premakes six litres of the brothat any one time and sets it aside for days when she needs a jolt. The soup differs frommeat stock, she says: “Meat stock does have collagen content, but it is very low.”
“Some women are squeamish when it comes to chicken feet and pig skin, but let metell you, when it comes to collagen, those parts are a gold mine,” she says. “The trick togetting a rich collagenous soup is to use parts that are high in collagen content andcook them long enough. Then you can say byebye to Botox.”
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3/22/2015 Bone broths an ageold elixir of youth Features | The Star Online
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Noodles in Annie Mok's super collagen soup.
ANNIE MOK’S SUPER COLLAGEN SOUP
2 huge pork bones2 chicken carcasses20 pieces chicken feet200g raw peanuts4.5 litre watersalt to taste (optional)
Presoak the peanuts overnight, or for at least 5 hours, before use. Remove the skinfrom soaked peanuts by rubbing them hard between the palms. Rinse the peanuts untilwater runs clear.
Rinse pork bones, chicken carcass and chicken feet, and parboil them for 3 to 5minutes. Rinse again.
In a big soup pot, add everything in except for the salt. Bring to a boil and keep itboiling for 10 minutes. Then reduce heat and simmer the soup over low heat for 4hours.
After simmering, remove all the bones and strain the broth twice using a very fine sievelike a cloth sieve. You should get about 2 litres of broth.
If you are drinking it fresh, lightly salt it. If you are keeping it as a stock for future use,salt it only when you reheat it for consumption.
To serve
Reheat the soup. Add salt, noodles, mushrooms, egg and any other ingredients.
TAGS / KEYWORDS:
Collagen soup, Bone broth, Annie Mok, Annielicious Food, Bone Pot, Shabuton Tei
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3/22/2015 Bone broths an ageold elixir of youth Features | The Star Online
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