blogging around the world_lille
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Blogging AroundThe World - Lille
Cover Design: Cara WilliamsPhotography: Cara WilliamsCopyright 2012 by Cara WilliamsAll rights reservedBy Cara Williams
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CONTENTS Chapter 1: 3Chapter 2: 5
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Chapter One
Saturday 8th November 2012
Our 7am cab was early. Once we found the driver in the fog, we started our journey
to St Pancras International, for our 8.57am train to Lille.
One hour and 33 minutes later, we were looking at the huge, weird flower sculpture
outside Lille Europe Eurostar station.
The weather was miserable. It was cold, gray, foggy and raining. Luckily, the Sejours
& Affaire hotel was a 5 minute walk from the station. We couldn't check in until 5pm
however, so left our luggage and headed out to get our bearings.
Before we headed into town, mum wanted to
find a place to sit and eat her home made
sarnies (bless), so we found a seat for mum in
the large shopping centre adjacent to our
hotel, while I drooled over the macaroons in
the window of 'Paul'.
We started at the Grand Place, which is the
main square in Lille. Beautifully preserved
historic buildings
surround the
square, along with a myriad of cafes and pattiseries. I
loved the Cloche d'oR building, (left) and the Vielle
Bourse (which is the old stock exchange building).
Christmas was in the air, as Mistletoe and Wine played
on loop over a loudspeaker, while people stopped to look
at the huge Christmas tree and decorations, in the mainsquare. The purpose of this trip was to take mum to the
Lille Christmas Market (as I had heard that it was one of
the biggest and best in Europe). I was imagining Winter
Wonderland and much more, so I was surprised when
Faye told me we had just passed it.
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We decided to revisit the market later and went to see another place of interest in
the guide book; the Cathedrale Notre-Dame de la Treille. It is a national monument
of France and I thought it was stunning. I especially loved this stain glass window.
We then tried to find the Philip Oliver fromagerie, as I
really wanted to take some Comte home. The shop wasdown a gorgeous cobbled side street, but once I saw the
price, I realised it would be cheaper to get it from
Waitrose.
Philip Oliver was around the corner from another Lille
highlight; Meert.
Meert is one of France's most famous patissiers and the
tea house and patisserie on rue Esquermoise is beautiful.
It is best known for its waffles, but also sells a range of
cakes, breads and savoury snacks. It is a cross between
Valerie Patisserie and Harrods.
We would have had a cuppa in there but as it was raining, everyone else had the
same idea and it was packed, so we ran across the road for a drink in Basilica cafe
instead.
After a much needed coffee, we went back
to the Christmas Market, which consisted of
roughly 20 huts, selling random things like
plastic figurines, home made toilet roll
holders and baby rattles. There were also
jewellery stores, food stalls and plenty of
places to buy mulled wine. It was interesting,
but the complete opposite of what I
expected! The main thing was mum
managed to find two Christmas presents and
was happy with that.
we had allocated two hours for the Christmas market visit, but were ready to move
on after 20 minutes, so after a quick glance at the Eglise St-Etienne (the grandest
church in Lille), it was 5pm and time to check in to the hotel.
As we walked back, the festive lights had been switched on and they looked
amazing. There was an archway of blue lights over the main road in the city and all
the buildings were lit up in festive colours.
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Chapter Two
I had paid 228 for the Eurostar and hotel altogether (for 3 of us), which I thought
was good value. We had our own apartment, with two bedrooms, a bathroom and
small kitchen area. It was no frills, but suited us fine for the night...(except we were
on the 12th floor and the windows were not wind proof and there were ridiculously
high winds that night.
It is very rare that I feel cold, but I was hugging the radiator (at full blast) and wasstill shivering. The windows were rattling as the weather deteriorated, but we all
managed to have a short, unplanned pre-dinner nap anyway.
An hour later, we braved the wind and rain again to find a bistro that sold one of the
dishes of the region; Carbonnade flamande (small chunks of beef, stewed in beer),
waterzo (poultry or fish in a creamy sauce, served with baby vegetables) and
potjevleesch (literally small potted meat, a white meat terrine in aspic).
The guide book recommended a restaurant in the Rue St Etienne area, called La
Compostelle. The food looked nice but it was very expensive, and after checking out
a few other menus, we ended up in Flams.
It was a weird experience. The waitresses were not used to tourists and didnt speak
or understand English. The menu was so confusing and we noticed quickly that
rather than a variety of traditional Lille dishes and flavours, everyone seemed to
have the same thing.
We could not make any sense of the deals on the menus, or what exactly we were
ordering. It didnt matter because we all received the same thing; a thin crispy
dough (pizza sized), covered with a creamy, seasoned sauce and sprinkled with
cheese, sliced onions and bacon. It is served right out of the oven.
I felt cheated quite frankly. It turned out that I ordered an 'all you can eat' option,
where the waitresses give you unlimited 'Flams' for a set price. I only realised that
at the very end. I only managed one, as I didn't really like it, so spent 16e on, well,
not a lot.
It was only when the waitress gave us the bill that she told us they had English
menus!
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After dinner, we walked back to Grand Place and had beer in the Leffe Bar. It gave
us a chance to people watch. One of the waiters looked and acted like Mr Bean,
while we were served by a 'Meatloaf' look-a-like.
The weather deteriorated a lot in the evening and the wind picked up and it was
bitter. We headed back to the hotel for some warmth. The draft and rattlingwindows kept us awake most of the night!
Sunday 9th November 2012
We checked out at 9.30am and headed to the Wazemmen open air market, to
continue my hunt for Comte. It turned out to be quite a long walk, but it was worth
it, as we got to see more of the city.
The market itself was huge and packed with Sunday morning bargain hunters. There
was a wide range of meats, cheeses and fresh fish on offer; plus vegetables, fruit
and pastries. There were also various clothes stores, gadget stores and second hand
book stores.
There were lots of homeless people in the market area however and we didn't feel
particularly safe, so decided to go in search of a crepe, which mum had been
craving.
Although we passed endless creperies yesterday, of course, none of them were
open today, so we ended up in a patisserie to have the next best thing; a huge
French croissant. This place was good value, as we got an oversized croissant, pain
au chocolat and a tea/coffee each for 3e.
Next, we headed to the canal area in the NorthWest of Lille. This was a bit disappointing I
was imagining Venice, but it was a completely
bland and neglected part of town.
However, we discovered the best bit of Lille by
chance, as we walked down Rue de Gand. We
turned a corner and spotted a random, very
small upside down house on the grass. It was
quite a tourist attraction.
I have only just found out that it is part of anart exhibition. 'Fallen from the Sky", is part of the Lille fantastic exhibition by French
artist Jean-Franois Fourtou.
We walked down an alleyway and entered an area of narrow, cobbled streets, lined
with beautiful local bistros and cafes. We stopped at a few to see what was on the
menu and saw the Carbonnade and other regional dishes in each place.
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Although we had been looking for authentic food the
whole trip, it was the creperie that won the day. Mum
finally got her crepe and I had a nice afternoon glass of
wine.
Our last job was to buy a present for dad. We spotted alovely chocolate shop on our travels and bought dad a
box of mixed flavour, freshly made macaroons. I did try
one and they were amazing.
Sadly, it was then time to head back to the Eurostar
station, for our 5.30pm train back to London.
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