Birding in East Sikkim – A Tour Report

East Sikkim- Gangtok, Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary- Tsomgo, Fambonglho Wildlife Sanctuary

Tour Leader: Chewang Rinchen Bonpo E-mail: chewangrinchen@gmail.comGuest Birders: Mr. Amit Tharukta & his wifeE-mail: amit.birds@gmail.comDated: 25th June to 28th June 2009

IntroductionSikkim the second smallest state of India with an area of 7,096 sq. km. and with the least population among all the states of India. Located between the two Himalayan countries of Nepal in the west and the Kingdom of Bhutan in the East, Sikkim is one of the star point for the of the Indo-Malayan type species with most of them endemic to the Eastern Himalayas.

The Birdlife of Sikkim is estimated to be of 550 species with most of the species resembling the Kingdom of Bhutan. Thus if one want to come for a Bird-watching Holiday with reasonable expenses and interest in the Eastern Himalayan species combined with the lovely view of the world’s third highest mountain then Sikkim along with the forests of Darjeeling Hills offers you the best choice with many good important Birding areas and a minimum of 200 Species in a span of one tour.

Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary: Kyongnosla and Tsomgo region lies in East Sikkim. As the name suggests it is an Alpine forest with dominant species like the Rhododendrons and Junipers and small shrubs making it a good habitat for game birds like the Blood Pheasant , Himalayan Monal ( Dec to May) followed by many good high altitude species like the Fire-tailed Sunbirds. The Bamboo forest on the way to Tsomgo is one of the favourite sites for many good bamboos habituating species like Parrotbills, Laughing Thrushes etc.

Fambonglho Wildlife Sanctuary: The sanctuary is situated on the hills opposite to Gangtok. The highest point of this sanctuary is Tinjurey, which is one of the better places for Birdwatching. The Log hut accommodation within the sanctuary makes bird watching more worthwhile compared to other places. The temperate forests of Oak, Chestnut, and Bamboo with small shrubs of ferns are an ideal habitat for Babblers and Wren Babblers.

Red-tailed Minla

Detailed Tour Report

Day 1- 25th June 09

As soon as arriving in Gangtok at noon Amit was anxious and impatient for photographing birds with his powerful 500mm lens so we headed to the National Highway between Ganesh Tok and Tashi view point after a few meters from Ganesh Tok we started our walk on the Highway where we came across a mixed flock of birds which we managed get good shots of some of the species like the

Green Crowned Warbler, Blue-winged Minla, Red-tailed Minla and Red-billed Leiothrix.

As we walked just a few meters we came across a pair of Russet Sparrows of which Amit could capture the male. After the flock passed on we carried on walking towards Bulbulay as the place seemed to have lesser traffic. As we entered the Park, Amit encountered a Red-headed Laughing thrush perched on a stone sunning itself but could not capture it in his camera. However, we were not as disappointed as we were sure we would encounter it again. As we walked a few meters we came across the sharp-pitched dual note singing of a Strong-footed Bush Warbler

[Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler] which took us a couple of minutes to capture it as like other bush warblers it is also a very restless bird. We did manage to get a very good picture of the species singing in a bamboo grove. As we reached near a gully we could hear a flock coming towards us and we could get good shots of Rufous–capped Babblers in the flock.

Strong-Footed Bush Warbler

Day 2- 26th June 09: After a very good start on the first day, we had great expectations for sighting more star birds especially in the Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary. We started form Gangtok at half past five in the morning and even the weather which was not on our side with its mist and little showers could not dampen our optimism. After we crossed the 9th mile Check post we came across a Bamboo forest near a small village where we saw a flock of Red-headed

Laughingthrush crossing the road. We made a stop and followed the flock. As we approached a waiting shed near the road, we took a shelter for a while form the showers. Suddenly a bird popped out from the nearby bamboo grove which was identified was Brown Parrotbill. This was one species we never expected to see on this tour. As usual, Amit was quick enough to capture the bird in his Camera. We loitered around the area for sometime searching for more birds and happened to sight some birds like Dark-sided Flycatcher flying around the area and a Dark-throated Thrush perched in Electric wire about hundred meters from us of which we had no chance to photo because of the fog. other birds in that area were the Russet Bush Warbler calling from the distance and also Spotted Laughingthrush

calling down from the Gully about a kilometre away. We then proceeded on our journey towards Tsomgo Lake.

After a drive of about an hour we reached a small village where we decided to have a sip of tea and wait for the weather to improve, As we were taking our sip of tea I looked outside the window of the restaurant and saw couple of Black-faced Laughingthrushes near the restaurant feeding on the food waste and called on Amit to take his shot. Also at a distance was a White Collared Black Bird.

The weather seemed to improve after half an hour so we moved towards the Sanctuary. As we began our trek to the top of the sanctuary the first bird that we came across were a flock of Stripe-throated Yuhinas followed by Rufous–vented Yuhina. The disappointing part was that as we trekked more inside the park, the path slowly disappeared and we were completely lost among the Rododendron Shrubs. So we had to trek back and came across a little wooden bridge where Amit managed to photograph an Orange-gorgeted Flyctacher [Rufous-gorgeted

flycatcher] and a Fire-tailed Sunbird that was flying around all over the place. On reaching the entry gate we encountered two White-capped River chats [White Capped Water Redstarts].After the trek we drove towards the lake and came across a Grey-backed Shrike perched on an electric wire. As we reached the lake we scanned the lake for any interesting

Red-headed Laughingthrush

water birds. Despite the place being a rush of traffic of tourists and Yak herders, Amit sighted a Dark-breasted Rosefinch on one side of the lake.

After the visit to the lake we decided to head back towards Gangtok but were stuck up for couple of hours due to the road construction. On our way back we sighted a flock of birds passing in front of our vehicle. Amit was able to photograph the male Gold-naped Finch meanwhile I was trying to capture the White-browed Shortwing without much success due to the place being slowly covered with fog. We also could not capture the Lesser Cuckoo that was perched on an Electric wire a few meters from us.

Though we were hungry we forgot all about lunch as soon as we reached the Parrotbill Bamboo forest where Amit captured very good shot of the Red Headed Laughing Thrush followed by a Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler.

We had a late lunch at Tashi view point and decided to seek birds in North Sikkim highway as it has a very good Bamboo mixed forest. We soon encountered a flock of Green-tailed Sunbirds, Black-throated Sunbirds, Green-backed Tits followed by a Pygmy Wren Babbler and a Slaty-bellied Tesia. After the flock passed on we carried on our walk for half an hour and came across a flock of Striated Laughing Thrushes.

Dark-breasted Rosefinch

Day 3-27th June 09

The day started with a drive towards Pangthang to enter the Fambonglho Wildlife Sanctuary. We reached the entry point towards the sanctuary at about seven in

the morning.

The first bird of the day was a White-tailed Nuthatch just by the side of the road. As we trekked few meters inside from the entry point we heard a flock of Grey-sided Laughingthrushes moving inside a thick shrub but could not capture them on camera. As soon as we entered the forest there was mixed flock of birds all around us. Some of the species that we managed to take photos of where the Indian blue Robin, Pygmy Blue Flycatcher (both Male and Female) and a Rusty Fronted Barwing. A couple of White-tailed Blue Robins[White-tailed Robin] kept coming near us but was too quick for the camera.

After the entertaining flock passed on we walked a further few meters where we heard the star bird of the tour *Rufous-throated Wren Babbler. I thought of manoeuvring it in the open area so we could photograph it. We worked very hard to capture the bird by sitting motionless for about fifteen minutes but as usual due to the restless nature of the bird we could only get a few passable shots of it.

On our trek towards the log hut, as we were passing through an open grass field we took a rest to enjoy the beautiful environment of the forest and suddenly our attention was drawn by a flock of about ten Wedged-tailed Green Pigeon that flew towards us and one of them had very bad crash on the electric wire. Around the same time, I heard the call of a Black-throated Prinia form a nearby bush which gradually moved towards the top while Amit had his best photo shooting session of the species. After a while we saw a couple of the same species flying around the area.

We carried on our walk toward the Log hut for a rest and hot cup of tea as the weather became cold with a light drizzle. After lunch the weather seemed to improve so we decided to carry on our venture towards Chulei.

Rufous-throated Wren Babbler

The birds that we encountered on the way to Chulei were the Black-throated Sunbird and a mixed flock of Yuhinas and Minlas.

As we walked a couple of kilometres into the dense forest we made sightings of a flock of Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons, Ashy Drongo and the very shy and difficult to sight Blue-fronted Blue Robin (couple of them singing near the pathway). We reached a point in the forest where the path seemed to be very narrow and difficult to walk with the tripod and the camera so we decided to walk back towards the Log hut.Our decision proved to very favourable as we were able to photograph the Pygmy Wren Babbler just by the side of the path few meters from us and also had the opportunity to try and capture the creepy and restless singingGrey-bellied Tesia. On our way to the Log hut we sighted a flock of Red headed Tits [Black-throated Tit] with a pair of Himalayan Green Finch [Yellow-breasted Green finches] and had an interesting wait for the amazing looking Sickle-billed or Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler but all in vain since it kept itself well hidden inside the bushes.

Day 4- 28th June 09:

On the last day of our tour we started with the same spirit to find new birds in the area to be photographed. We decided hang around the Log hut. Soon the first bird to be sighted for the day was the Large Hawk Cuckoo singing near the hut followed with the same mixed flock of Sunbirds, Minlas and Yuhinas. As we walked quietly far away from our Log hut we had our last encounter with the Rufous-throated

Wren Babbler of which we could capture one of the best photos of the bird that I have seen till date. We slowly moved down from the hut and tried our luck in the open grassland for capturing some of the thrushes. We soon sighted a pair of

Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers who were quite cooperative but due to the fog and bad light, photographing them became more and more difficult for Amit. After a good morning’s sighting we headed for our destination after our breakfast.

The whole tour was one of the most satisfying tours for me as a bird guide in Sikkim in my whole of six years’ birding experience. We could make sightings of more than 50 different species of birds within the three and half days that too in the month where most of the Birds are hard to see’ and some of them very prized ones too. I am immensely pleased with the variety on offer and this spells volumes of the prospects of birding in Sikkim within the proximity of Gangtok.

Black-throated Prinia

Rusty-fronted Barwing

Slaty-bellied Tesia

SYSTEMATIC LIST

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H).

ACCIPITRIDAE

1. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Observed in Fambonglho near the Log hut.

PHASIANIDAE

2. Common Hill-partridge Arborophila torqueola (H): Heard several at Fambonglho WLS

COLUMBIDAE

3. Oriental Turtle -Dove Streptopelia orientalis: Common almost all the places visited.

4. Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall: About a Dozen flying around in Fambonglho WLS

5. Wedge-tailed Green-pigeon Treron apicauda: About a dozen flying and singing in Fambonglho WLS

CUCULIDAE

6. Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides: Commonly heard in Fambonglho but one seen very well near the Log hut.

7. Lesser Cuckoo Cuculus poliocephalus: Commonly heard all over the tour seen twice well in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary & Fambonglho WLS.

APODIDAE

8. Pacific Swift (Fork-tailed S) Apus pacificus: Seen every day of the tour flying around the sky.

CAPITONIDAE

9. Great Barbet Megalaima virens: Heard several in Fambonglho WLS

HIRUNDINIDAE

10. Nepal House-martin Delichon nipalense: About two birds seen in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary

MOTACILLIDAE

11. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: One seen near by the roadside in Kyongnosla Village.

CAMPEPHAGIDAE

12. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: Scattered sightings in Bulbuly and Fambonglho WLS.

RHIPIDURIDAE

13. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: Common in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS.

LANIIDAE

14. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus: A total of 2 seen on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary

CINCLIDAE

15. Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasi: One seen in the river opposite to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary

TURDIDAE

16. White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus: Relatively common in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary

17. Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul: Two birds seen near office of Block officer In Fambonglho WLS

18. Blue Whistling-thrush Myophonus caeruleus: Frequently encountered along the roadsides.

19. Dark-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis: Seen one on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary perched in an electric wire.

MUSCICAPIDAE

20. Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapa sibirica: One individual seen very close and well near by the road on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary

21. Orange-gorgeted Flycatcher (Rufous-g F) Ficedula strophiata: One of them seen well inside Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary

22. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina: Common throughout.

23. Large Niltava Niltava grandis (H): A Total of 2 were heard at Bulbulay

24. Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara: A male seen in Bulbulay on the first day

25. Pygmy Blue Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni: A nesting pair in Fambonglho WLS.

26. Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis: Commonly seen with the mixed flock.

27. White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx Montana: (H) One heard near the roadside on our way back.

28. Indian Blue Robin : One male appeared in front of us in Fambonglho WLS

29. White-capped River-chat (W-c Water Redstart, River Chat) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus: Frequently seen in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary.

30. Plumbeous Water-redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus: Somewhat less common than the last species but seen even in SNT Secretariat in Gangtok.

31. White-tailed Blue Robin (W-t Robin) Myiomela leucura (Seen by Tour Leader only): A couple of birds were heard singing but able to see on beautiful male along the trek to Log hut in Fambonglho WLS.

32. Blue-fronted Blue Robin (B-f Robin) Cinclidium frontale: We had brief views of a male crossing the trail.

33. Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri: Seen an individual by Amit in Burtuk waterfall.

TIMALIIDAE

34. Grey-sided Laughingthrush Dryonastes caerulatus: A small groups (about 5) calling in Entry gate of Fambonglho WLS.

35. Spotted Laughingthrush Ianthocincla ocellat (H): Heard on the way to Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary

36. Black-faced Laughingthrush Trochalopteron affine: Seen a pair feeding on the food waste in Kyongnosla Village.

37. Red-headed Laughingthrush (Chestnut-crowned L) Trochalopteron erythrocephalum: Regular sightings in small numbers in the forest and roadside. The subspecies involved is the distinctive nigrimentum

38. Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis: The commonest scimitar babbler seen well on our way back from Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary

39. Slender-billed Scimitar-babbler (Sickle-b S-b) Xiphirhynchus superciliaris: This unique babbler was seen briefly in Fambonglho WLS.

40. Pygmy Wren-babbler Pnoepyga pusilla: Commonly heard singing throughout the tour especially in a suitable habitat was seen very well twice once in Bulbuly and second in Fambonglho WLS.

41. Rufous-throated Wren-babbler Spelaeornis caudatus: Heard many times in Fambonglho WLS were seen extremely well twice about one kilometre radius from the Log hut.

42. Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps : Common in Bulbay usually with mixed flock of Birds

43. Red –billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea : Very common in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS often with Mixed Flock.

44. Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni: Flocks were regularly seen in Fambonglho WLS

45. Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera: Very commonly seen in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS

46. Bar-throated Minla (Chestnut-tailed M) Minla strigula: Less common compared to Blue-winged seen In Fambonglho WLS only.

47. Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta: Regular sightings of this boldly-marked Minla in Bulbulay and Fambonglho WLS.

48. Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippe chrysoti (H) : Heard once in Bulbulay

49. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps: Seen regularly with a Flock of Minlas.

50. Rufous Sibia Hetrerophasia capistrata : Seen one in Bulbulay but heard everywhere.

51. Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis: Most Commonly seen in the whole tour.

52. Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis: About 10 birds seen inside Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary.

53. Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis: A flock of 5 birds seen inside Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary.

54. Brown Parrotbill Paradoxornis unicolor: Excellent views of two Birds on the way and back from Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary.

CISTICOLIDAE

55. Black-throated Prinia Prinia atrogularis: Excellent views of three black-throated birds. This is now split from the South-East Asian Hill Prinia P.superciliaris.

56. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus (H): One bird was heard in Fambonglho WLS just above the grass field.

SYLVIIDAE

57. Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea: One seen very well pass Tashi View point.

58. Grey-bellied Tesia Tesia cyaniventer: Common in Fambonglho WLS than previous species, and also a lot more difficult to see.

59. Brownish-flanked Bush-warbler (Strong-footed B-w) Cettia fortipes: Commonly heard, seen very well in Bulbulay more common than other Bush Warblers.

60. Russet Bush-warbler Bradypterus mandelli (H): Heard one in the Bamboo Forest near the village pass 9th mile Police check-point.

61. Eastern Crowned Warbler Phylloscopus coronatus: One Bird seen in a mixed flock in Fambonglho WLS.

62. Ashy-throated Leaf-warbler (Grey-faced Leaf-warbler) Phylloscopus maculipennis: One seen very briefly in a mixed flock In Fambonglho WLS

63. Blyth’s Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: One or two birds in a mixed flock in Fambonglho WLS.

64. Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos: Two birds seen well with a mixed Flock in Bulbulay.

65. Green Crowned Warbler Seicercus burkii split form [Golden Speckled Warbler]: About 6 birds seen in Bulbulay and pass Tashi View Point

66. Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps: One bird seen briefly in a dense forest about two Kilometre form the Log hut towards Chuli.

67. Large-billed Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris (H): One heard in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary at a distance across the river.

AEGITHALIDAE

68. Red-headed Tit (Black-throated T) Aegithalos concinnus: A very cooperative flock of 20 birds near the Loghut in Fambonglho WLS.

69. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus: Regularly seen throughout the tour.

70. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus: One Individual seen in a mixed flock near the Log hut in Fambonglho WLS.

SITTIDAE

71. White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis: A couple of Birds near the entry gate of Fambonglho WLS.

NECTARINIIDAE

72. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis: The common sunbird of the tour.

73. Black-breasted Sunbird (Black-throated S) Aethopyga saturata: One male bird in a flock pass Tashi view point.

74. Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: Common in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary

FRINGILLIDAE

75. Himalayan Greenfinch (Yellow-breasted G) Carduelis spinoides: About four birds seen near the Block Officer Office in Fambonglho.

76. Gold-naped Finch Pyrrhoplectes epauletta: One Male seen on the way from Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary below the road.

PASSERIDAE

77. Cinnamon Sparrow (Russet S) Passer rutilans: One male seen near the road in Bulbulay just pass Ganesh Tok

DICRURIDAE

78. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Frequently seen throughout the tour.

MAMMALS

1. Yellow throated Martin Martes Flavigula: Seen twice once in Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary and once on our way back near Sikkim Armed Police Head quarters in Pangthang –Gangtok

2. Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremomys lokriah: Regularly seen in Fambonglho.