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AmericanCowboy.com August/September 2013 59 These 43 items of gear are cowboy, and they are American. What more do you want? To honor companies that invest here, we gathered all the great products we’re longing for now—from boots and hats to jeans, buckles, and shirts. Put your money where your heart is: Buy “Made in the U.S.A.” By Thea Marx America's OF THE WEST BEST

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Page 1: besT of The WesT - Amazon Web Servicesequisearch-media.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/... · hatband with miniature Navajo rugs. $1,900; 970-903-0585, durangocustomhatsandsaddles.com

AmericanCowboy.com August/September 2013 59

These 43 items of gear are cowboy, and they are American. What more do you want? To honor companies that invest here, we gathered all the great products we’re longing

for now—from boots and hats to jeans, buckles, and shirts. Put your money where your heart is: Buy “Made in the U.S.A.” By Thea Marx

America's

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BAck AT The RAnch What started out as a store full of Western kitsch that carried used cowboy boots has evolved into one of the largest retailers of custom cowboy boots. Owner Wendy Lane Henry is a Miami native who ran a high-end fashion boutique in New York City before founding Back at the Ranch in 1990. She now owns her own factory in El Paso where each and every boot is made by hand. Stars & Stripes, $2,598; 888-962-6687, backattheranch.com

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WilSon BooT coMpAny Working some of the largest ranches in Wyoming, Virgil Babione would ride at a trot for miles in oxbow stirrups. He found that Wilsons were the only boots that he could wear comfortably under that kind of pressure, so he and his wife Paula bought Wilson Boot Company in Livingston, Mont. Two-tone Babione’s Wilson Boots work boots, starting at $645; 406-222-3842, wilsonboots.com

DouBle h BooT Double H Boot Company began in 1955 in Rich-land, Pa., making cowboy boots and what they called a “snoot boot.” In the 1970s, their produc-tion was almost exclusively Western boots. Double H was the first to manufacture cowboy boots with safety toes. Most of the Western dress and work Western styles are made in Womelsdorf, Pa. ICE Saddle Vamp Work Roper boots,$210; 888-835-4004, sheplers.com

BlAck JAck To satisfy their traditional customers, Black Jack makes handmade boots for the working cowboy. Started 17 years ago by four brothers, Black Jack Boots is also known for setting fashion trends. The brothers don’t hold back when incorporating fashion cues into their boots, like color, texture, and styles from the international market. Women’s Python Triad Vintage, $599; 888-815-8838, kokopellinh.com

cABooTS For four generations the San-chez family has been making cowboy boots. Joey and his wife Priscilla are now at the helm of Caboots, the family business that started more than 75 years ago when Joey’s great-grand-father came to this country from Leon, Mexico. He worked alongside Tony Lama at Fort Bliss and, like Lama, passed his trade onto his children and grandchildren, who have created a boot company that makes boots for working cowboys—and for anyone who wants to look like one. The Extraordinaire, $1,500; 915-544-1855, caboots.com

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MilAno hATS Started by Italian immigrant John Milano in 1983, Milano Hats has become a serious industry presence known for their Larry Mahan line as well as their involvement with the PBR. The company’s state-of-the-art manufacturing facility is headquartered in Garland, Texas, and is led by John’s son Richard. Larry Mahan 30X Lawton, $57; 214-342-0071, milanohats.com

ShoRTy’S cABoy hATTeRy Shorty “Lavonna” Kroger loved to rodeo. She ran barrels and rode bulls, but then an injury forced her to find another out-let for her energy. Upon opening a West-ern store, she learned the hat business and taught herself how to shape hats. She now makes custom hats out of her store in The Stockyards in downtown Okla-homa City for competitors and working cowboys alike. Shorty’s Caboy Hattery, Nicole hat, $800–$1,000; 405-232-4287, shortyshattery.com

GReeley hAT WoRkSOnce known as “The Shining Parlor,” Greeley Hat Works started in 1909 and has been a fixture of the Greeley, Colo., community and the world-wide hat business for more than 100 years. Today’s owner, Trent Johnson, creates custom, fashion-minded hats and genuine classics of excellent qual-ity. Call for prices; 888-367-2428, greeleyhatworks.com

DuRAnGo cuSToM hATS & SADDleS Melissa Lewis-Barnes of Durango Custom Hats & Saddles calls upon her Navajo and family cowboy heritage to create one-of-a-kind hats, like the Shilo. This hat has a Navajo Ganado rug design painted on the top of the brim and the underside, as well as a hand-beaded hatband with miniature Navajo rugs. $1,900; 970-903-0585, durangocustomhatsandsaddles.com

BAiley hAT co. The George S. Bailey Hat Company began in 1922 and was one of the first hatters to use celebrities as ambassadors. Now owned by Bollman Hat Company, Bailey Hat Co. is a thriving Ameri-can business. President Don Rongione also launched American Made Matters (americanmadematters.com) to support American-made products. Cortez 13604, $55; 800-859-4653, baileyhats.com

AMeRicAn hAT coMpAny In 1915, Russian immigrant Sam Silver opened the American Hat Company in Houston, Texas. In 2003, Keith Mad-dox (a Western clothing guru who had worked for many of the major brands) bought the company and moved it to Bowie, Texas. Today the company makes 100,000 hats and works with the Wound-ed Warrior Project and the Texas Rangers law enforcement. American Buckaroo, $295; 307-527-7300, customcowboyshop.com

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ZpT Silversmiths Zan and Patience Traughber have been making silver pieces together since 1990. ZPT is an official licensee for the Pendleton Round-Up, creating custom “Let ’er Buck” silver pieces for the iconic rodeo as well as many contemporary silver pieces inlaid with precious jewels. Sterling silver pen-dant with gold, $300; 541-276-4220, zptsilversmiths.com

ShAne henDRen Navajo master metalsmith and artist Shane Hendren has spent his lifetime work-ing at his craft and living the Western lifestyle in his home state of New Mexico. This father of four is a team roper, bull rider, and horse trainer. He pushes the boundaries of jewelry design by incorporating designs and techniques rooted in his Navajo heritage and with advanced techniques such as Mokume Gane and engrav-ing. The Indian Arts and Crafts Association awarded Hendren the 2007 Artist of the Year. Hand-engraved cufflinks in sterling silver with natural Sleeping Beauty turquoise, $410; 505-883-0301, shanehendren.com

MeReDiTh lockhART The daughter of a professional musi-cian and jewelry designer, Meredith Lockhart designs couture fashion for the runway, rodeo queens, and country music artists. She creates her contem-porary jewelry in her studio on her Kansas farm. Ham-mered bronze cuff with Emerald Valley turquoise, $650; 913-886-2247, meredithlockhart.com

GiST SilveRSMiThS As the youngest member to join the RCA-PRCA at 12, Gary Gist was a team roper and won his fair share of trophy buckles before making them for Western organiza-tions and individuals. After a tour in Viet-nam, Gist learned the craft of silversmith-ing and started his one-man shop in 1967. Gist Silversmiths of Placerville, Calif., has more than 100 employees. From the Champion Minted Collection, $322; 800-456-4478, gistsilversmiths.com

olD coWDoGS The brainchild of silver- and goldsmith Bill Reynolds, Old Cowdogs of Carson City, Nev., is a good source for classic Pacific Slope bridle horse silver featuring classic, original tooling. Los Osos buckle, sterling silver with 14K reata, $795; 805-693-5406, oldcowdogs.com

SilveRSMyTh Texas-based Julie Hiltbrunner of Silversmyth dreams of life as a pioneer woman on the Western plains. She creates fine silver jew-elry in a Western state of mind while she waits for the bread to rise for baking or the cheese to drain on the clapboard. Horseshoe necklace (open to the top for good luck) cast in fine silver (99%), $88; 817-456-4432, silversmyth.com

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pueBlo DiRecTStarted by New Mexicans David and Karen Hooks, Pueblo Direct sold its first pieces on Ebay in 2000. Today, the com-pany has grown and is run by Karen, her brother Drew, and his wife Lindsey. They visit the state’s many Pueblos and go to shows to find new pieces and talented artists. Bear paw design buckle with coral and turquoise stones set in sterling by Na-vaho maker, Wilbert Muskett, Sr., $360; 877-252-8370, pueblodirect.com

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ToM BAlDinG Once a precision fabricator in the aerospace and sailing industries, Tom Balding made his first bit by putting together scrap sailboat parts. Now a fixture in the world of riders and col-

lectors, Tom Balding remains the go-to guy for bits and spurs in the Western industry. Sheridan Hinge Port With Roller, $440; 307-672-8459, tombalding.com

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Mike cApRon Mike Capron creates bits and spurs that reflect his ranching background in Midland, Texas. Holding an ag business degree from Texas A&M, this family man

has a love of horsemanship and roping and was named 2008 Spur Maker and Engraver of the Year by the Academy of Western Artists. TCAA Loop Bit, $8,000; 432-570-8552, wilsoncapron.com

Ron AnD Shoni MAulDinG Horsehair hitch-ing is not braid-ing, but a series of knots, and considerably more time consuming (ergo the crazy price). Ron and Shoni Mauld-

ing are the foremost authorities on this obscure craft, which was traditionally practiced by cowboys, American Indians, Mexicans, sheepherders—and prison inmates, for whom it was a hobby pro-gram in territorial prisons of the West. This headstall took six months to create. Mariposa Lapwai headstall, $17,900; 509-738-6944, hitchedhorsehair.com

AMeRicAn SpuR coMpAny Raised in Oregon on a farm with cattle, Gene Conrad and his wife bought the American Spur Company in Ronan, Mont., in 2004. Their spurs are machined in Gene’s shop, and he is a one-man show, building spurs for working cowboys, the rodeo set, and those in the show ring. Starting at $300; 800-216-8536, americanspurs.com

nATe WAlD Lodge Grass, Mont., rancher Nate Wald taught himself the art of rawhide braiding in 1989 and was named Braider of the Year by the Academy of Western Artists in 2007. Meanwhile, Wald and his wife, TJ, still run cattle and raise American Quarter Horses. Rawhide has been used for thousands of years to create items for daily living, and its durability and strength are highly valued in today’s Western industry. Wald creates raw-hide items that are not just beautiful, but functional. These double button hobbles have Trenza Patria flat-braided cuffs and are laced with intricate edge braiding; the sterling silver connector ring is by Wilson Capron. $6,600; 406-639-2219, natewald.com

vicToRiA BoyD Cinch tying and weaving are old traditional cow-boy arts, and Victoria Boyd celebrates her love of horses and ranch life with the art. She uses 100-percent American mohair that she cus-tom dyes. Her favorite buckle is the Visalia made by Bork & Sons in Washington State. $225; 916-996-4437, badgercreekarts.com

vince Donley Vince Donley learned how to braid from a book 35 years ago. To-day, this Wyoming cowboy continues to make tradition-al braided pieces for the working cowboy as well as more artistic pieces for collec-

tors and show horses. He is inspired by braider Jack Shepard and encouraged by the Western families of Don Butler, Don King, and Buck Brannaman. Working bosal ¼-3/4”, starting at $140; 307-527-7300, customcowboyshop.com

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All AMeRicAn cloThinG coMpAny Owner Lawson Nickol took the bull by the horns and started making jeans himself after seeing production move offshore. That was the beginning of All American Clothing Company in Arcanum, Ohio. It was hardscrabble the first years, but the company continues to grow and allows customers to trace their jeans all the way back to the American farmers who grew the cotton used. Chasity Mid-Rise Bootcut Jean, $70; 888-937-8009, allamericanclothing.com

SchAefeR ouTfiTTeRS Made from the finest homegrown, raw materials, these jeans are made by one of America’s last full-line apparel manufacturers, Schaefer Outfitters. In the beginning, they made down vests with Western yokes; today, a full line of American-made Western apparel bears the Schaefer name. 1950 Ladies Original Ranch Hand Dungarees, $60; 800-426-2074, schaefer-ranchwear.com

AMeRicAn GuSSeT Made by skilled workers in Blue Ridge, Ga., American Gusset jeans are different from the rest of the jeans on a shelf. Why? Because these jeans have a sewn-in gusset for more room and comfort when sitting or riding. Woman’s Backstage Jean, $60; 888-848-7738, americangusset.com

ceRTifieD JeAnS With environmental sustainability in mind, on both the manufactur-ing and growing side, partners in a clothing company decided to tackle making organic cotton jeans. With organic cotton from California grow-ers and a low impact indigo dye they went to work, their intent to create a high-quality product and give organic growers a market for their cotton. It worked. Certified Jeans was born. C4U Skinny Jeans 2% spandex, 98% organic cotton, American-made jeans, $168–188; 206-286-9685,cforyouapparel.com

TexAS JeAnS Despite the name, Texas Jeans are made in North Caro-lina, once the textile capital of America. For thirty-five years and running, this American company continues to create jeans and jobs. With innovative pockets and stretch, Texas Jeans channels the Americana vibe made with 100-percent American components. Ladies stretch jeans, $34; 336-629-3018, texasjeans.com

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AMeRicAn GuSSeTDavid Hall wanted to follow the American Dream and he did. In 1987 he started his own company, a small blue jean manufacturing company with an emphasis on being 100 percent American-made. American Gusset and David’s designs are unique in the industry and prioritize extra comfort. Men’s Backstage Slim Bootleg, $60; 888-848-7738, americangusset.com

SchAefeRBorn in the era when ski instructors in Steamboat Springs, Colo., still wore cowboy hats, the predecessor to Schaefer Outfitters created down vests with Western yokes to be worn on the slopes and on the ranch. When founder Cub Schaefer moved to Jackson, Wyo., in the 1980s and established Schaefer Outfitters, his full-length dusters flew off the shelf. Now based in New Mexico, the com-pany is one of the last full-line ap-parel manufacturers in the U.S. 1800 American Denim Original Ranch Hand Dungaree, $60; 800-426-2074, schaefer-ranchwear.com.

RounD houSe GARMenT coMpAny In 1903, Oklahoma was still Indian Ter-ritory, and Teddy Roosevelt was Presi-dent. Henry Ford was designing his first automobile, and 100 or more trains a day roared through the town of Shawnee, bringing settlers, workers, and materi-als. The need for tough work wear was apparent and Round House Garment Company was created to satisfy those needs—and does to this day. $37; 888-835-4004, sheplers.com

TexAS JeAnSThis North Carolina-based jean maker originally started in 1978 making jeans that were primarily sold in 48 stores along the Atlantic seaboard. Today, Texas Jeans employs more than 200 people in its Asheboro plant, making jeans that are 100 percent American including all components. Original Fit Jean, $35; 336-629-3018, texasjeans.com

BuDDy’S JeAnS Buddy’s Jeans were born after cowboy Buddy Steverson found that his jeans didn’t stand up to the kind of work he was doing. After finding twisted seams and holes in his pockets soon after purchase, he endeavored to make a jean that would last. After 39 years in the manufactur-ing business, Buddy Steverson, now 80, still comes by the company’s main office in New Hebron, Miss., in his namesake jeans and with spurs on. $40; 877-275-4283, buddysjeans.com

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SchAefeR ouTfiTTeRS Schaefer Outfitters has clients from Germany to Japan and has ridden the various waves of Western fashion crazes, like the full-length duster look popularized by Urban Cowboy (1980). The company still uses local ranch models and sources Ameri-can materials. Their products are 100 percent American-made, including this Ladies Vintage Chisholm shirt. $60; 800-426-2074, schaefer-ranchwear.com

RockMounT There’s no trend-chasing at Rockmount in Denver, Colo. Third generation owner Steve Weil set his company apart by bring-ing new fabrics and patterns to the market, while sticking to classic designs. Celebrities and musicians worldwide don the company’s designs, some of which are a part of the Smithsonian Institution’s permanent collection.$98; 800-776-2566, rockmount.com

BARRAnADA In Spanish, barranada literally means “bar none.” Originally, the brand of shirts carried the company owner’s family brand, which was the zero with a line drawn through it. As a success-ful brand recognized by those in the horse industry from coast to coast, American-made Barranada clothes are recognized by vibrant colors and beautiful fabrics. Owners Gene and Barbara Graves are also very involved in the American Quarter Horse Association. The Cobalt, $130; 866-693-2323, barranada.com

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JohnSon Woolen MillS As Vermont as maple syrup, Johnson Woolen Mills has been in the wool business for 171 years. Once a place that only combed and carded raw wool, the company today creates fine wool clothing and accessories for some of the biggest names in U.S. retail. With patterns that are more than a century old still in use, this is a family operation of more than four generations. Sterling Moun-tain shirt, $200; 877-635-9665, johnsonwoolenmills.com

SchAefeR ouTfiTTeRS Western is a distinctive look, and a beautiful shirt is an (the?) essential part. Classic and true to functional design, New Mexico-based Schaefer Outfitters creates distinctive Western wear that is 100 percent American-made with American mate-rials. 7080 Western Classic Button Down Pinpoint, $100; 800-426-2074, schaefer-ranchwear.com

BARRAnADA After admiring the beautiful fabrics and workmanship of the shirts that were quickly becoming the stan-dard in the world of horse shows, Gene and Barbara Graves bought Barranada. Made with 100-percent cotton, these American-made shirts are as good in the boardroom as they are in the rodeo arena. Black Diamond, $130; 866-693-2323; barranada.com

Jeff fleTcheR Every man needs a good white shirt, especially one made in America. In 1965, 95 percent of the clothing worn in America was made here; by 2009, the figure had dropped to only 5 percent. Jeff Fletcher is determined to help turn that figure around one white shirt at a time. After being a textile designer for some of the largest names in the fashion trade, he stepped away to start his own company in 2001, making shirts that are exclusively American-made. $80; 800-605-6233, whitedressshirts.com

RockMounT Three generations deep into the fashion industry, the Weil family legacy holds a special place in Western fashion. Design elements like saw-tooth pockets and diamond-shaped snaps helped set Rock-mount apart from other shirt companies early on. These design elements have been in production for more than 50 years. Men’s Relaxed Fit Denim shirt, $95; 800-776-2566, rockmount.com