belle by - fibre mood · 2021. 6. 17. · press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong...

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Page 1: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

1/19#Belle

Belle by

Page 2: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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XS - XXXL

Belle by

Drumroll for Belle please! This is a fab top with an extra dose of charm. Belle is so versatile and can be worn with so many

things, it really is a must for every summer wardrobe! The round neck is perfectly on-trend as are the romantic

ruffled sleeves. Tempted to go for a few more fri l ls? Make a double flounce instead of just the one! Belle has

a sweet teardrop keyhole at the back with a button and loop. As for the length? That’s up to you.

Page 3: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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pattern measurements (in cm)

size chart (in cm)

size XS S M L XL XXL XXXL

length 59.5 61.25 63 65 67.25 69.5 71.75

bust 89.25 97.25 105.25 113.25 125.25 137.25 155.25

hem circumference 91.5 99.5 107.5 115.5 127.5 139.5 157.5

IMPORTANT Adjust the amount of fabric to be used based on these alterations.

Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the top by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen) or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams are always straight.

This chart's measurements are the pattern measurements based on the fabric type and serve as a reference. Ease has been added to the width measurements (in addition to the exact body measurements) for a more comfortable fit. Belle is designed to have a loose cut. Depending on the preferred cut, you could possibly go a size smaller or larger than the recommended size.

size XS S M L XL XXL XXXL

4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32

body height 160 164 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 172 172 172 172 172 172

B (bust) 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 146

H (hips) 86 90 94 97 100 103 106 109 115 120 125 130 135 140 145 H

B

shorten or lengthen the pattern here

Choose your size based on your bust measurement. If your hip measurements are wider than those in the size chart, check the hem circumference in the chart below to see if there’s enough room or whether the pattern needs to be altered. It's easy to do. Simply trace the line of the one size instead of the other.

Page 4: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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notions

fabric advice Oh, the possibilities! Poplin, chambray, lyocell, muslin, crepe (viscose, polyester, etc.), satin, Broderie Anglaise, lace...and the list just goes on! For statement sleeves be sure to choose a bulkier fabric. We can’t wait to see what you pick. Oh, and before we forget... knits work too!

fabric for the single flounce top XS S M L XL XXL XXXL

fabric width 110 cm cm 190 200 205 215 225 235 245

fabric width 140 cm cm 145 155 165 170 180 195 210

• Thread

• Iron-on interfacing: max. 20 cm

• Button (Ø 1.5 cm): 1

• Fabric: see table

fabric for the double flounce top XS S M L XL XXL XXXL

fabric width 110 cm cm 215 225 230 240 330 345 360

fabric width 140 cm cm 155 160 165 170 215 225 235

The corresponding fabric layout can be found on page 6 of these sewing instructions.

Page 5: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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pattern pieces & seam allowances (in cm)

To sew the garment as described in the instructions, draw the illustrated seam allowances around the paper pattern pieces before cutting them out. If you are using a PDF pattern, the pattern can be printed with or without seam allowance. To find out more, watch the video.

The pieces highlighted in light yellow have iron-on

interfacing attached to the wrong side.

IMPORTANT

1. front: 1x on fabric fold

2. back: 1x on fabric fold

3. side piece: 2x

4. 4a flounce 1: 2x

4b flounce 2: 2x (optional)

5. loop: 1x

6. back facing: 1x on fabric fold

7. bias tape: 1x

material type

fabric

iron-on interfacing

IMPORTANT

If you’re making the single-flounce version, you only need pattern piece 4a. If you’re making the double-flounce version, you'll need pattern pieces 4a and 4b.

1 2

30.5

0.5

0.5

1

11

10 0

0

11

1

33

50

0

0

0

4a

1

11

1

1

1

1

1

1

11

1

7

0

0

0

0

6

0.50

0.5

0 0

4b

1

11

1

11

1

Page 6: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

6/19#Belle

fabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 110 cm

XS - L

IMPORTANT You only need pattern pieces 5 and 7 once.

4b

4a 3

5

7

1

2

6

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

XL - XXXL

2

4b

1

4a3

5

6

7

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

IMPORTANT You only need pattern pieces 5 and 7 once.

Page 7: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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marking pattern pieces

Notch the pattern paper and fabric at the following points

single notch

double notch

V notch

Mark the following points using marking thread

centre point

fabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 140 cm

XS - L

IMPORTANT You only need pattern pieces 5 and 7 once.

5

7

3

6

4a

1

24b

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

XL - XXXL

1

2

5

7

4b

3

4a

6

IMPORTANT You only need pattern pieces 5 and 7 once.

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

Page 8: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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sewing instructions

The method used to finish the seams depends on the fabric used. The pieces are always sewn together with the right sides of the

fabric facing, unless stated otherwise.

1Fold the short ends of the loop (5) in half with the right sides of the fabric touching. Sew the long end.

F front

B back

CF centre front

CB centre back

RB right back

LB left back

right side

wrong side

iron-on interfacing

5 5 5

Page 9: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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Turn out the loop the right way (so that wrong sides are facing).

Press the long edges of the loop in half as illustrated to create a fold line and open back out. Rotate the loop to lie horizontally in front of you.

Fold the top, outside corners down diagonally on both sides so that the sides highlighted in green almost meet the pressed fold line.

Pin the loop to the back (2) with the raw edges matching the raw edge of the CB as shown. The bottom of the loop aligns with the notch.

Sew into place next to the edge.

5

5 5

5 5

5 5 5

2

2 2

5

2 2

5

Page 10: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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Finish the outer edge of the back facing (6) with overlock stitching.

Place back facing on top of the back, right sides together. Pin and sew, matching marking threads.

Snip into the seam allowance of the back and the back facing until just before the marking thread.

Fold the facing and the seam allowance over. Stitch the facing to the seam allowance underneath, right next to the edge. Sew as far as possible towards the U shaped curve.

6

2

0.5 cm

6

2

6

5

2 2

5

26 6

6

26

Page 11: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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Fold the facing neatly onto the wrong side of the back and press neatly flat.

2

Finish the shoulders and sides of the front and back with overlock stitching.

3Pin and stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowances open.

4Press the short ends of the bias tape (7) in half with the wrong sides touching.

2

6

21

1

2

2

1

7

7

Page 12: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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2

1

6

Press the facing back onto the right side of the back.

Pin and sew raw edges of the bias tape to the neckline, matching seams and notches. The bias tape is on top of the folded facing on both edges.

Sew into place at 0.5 cm from the edge.

Fold the bias tape and seam allowance over and stitch the bias tape to the seam allowance underneath, right next to the seam. Sew as far as possible towards the ends of the bias tape.

6

2

7

1

6

0.5 cm

2

7

1

6

6

2

1

1/2 7

7

2

1

7

Page 13: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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Fold the bias tape all the way over to the wrong side and edgestitch into place. Start and finish on the facing (at the finished CB line) as shown.

5Finish the side of flounce 1 (4a) as follows: Stitch at 0.5 cm from the unnotched raw edge.

Press the raw edge towards the wrong side along your previous stitching.

Fold over again and sew into place right next to the edge.

Use a long stitch at a low thread tension to sew 2 parallel rows of stitching along the notched raw edge. Leave a length of thread at the start and end of the stitching.

0.5 cm

4a

4a4a

4a4a

4a

Page 14: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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Carefully tug the ends of the threads to gather the fabric.

OPTIONAL: If you’re making the double-flounce version, finish flounce 2 (4b) as follows:

Stitch at 0.5 cm from the unnotched raw edge.

Press the raw edge towards the wrong side along the previous stitching.

4a

0.5 cm4b

4b 4b

Page 15: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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Fold over again and sew into place right next to the edge.

Use a long stitch at a low thread tension to sew 2 parallel rows of stitching along the notched raw edge. Leave a length of thread at the start and end of the stitching.Carefully tug the ends of the threads to gather the fabric.

The highlighted notches in flounce 4a align with the notches in the front and back.

4b 4b

4b4b

2

1

4a

Page 16: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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Pin flounce 4a to the front and back, right sides together. Make sure to distribute the gathers until the notches in the flounce and notches in the front and back match. Stitch into place.

OPTIONAL

For the double-flounce version, place piece 4b on piece 4a.

Pin and sew into place, matching notches.

2

1

4a

4b

2

1

4a

2

1

4b

Page 17: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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6Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out.

Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold line and then fold down again.

Edgestitch into place.

Pin the side piece to the front, back and flounce, making sure the marking threads and notches match. The finished top of the side piece should be even with the V notches.

33

3

3 3

3

1

2

2

3

1

1

Page 18: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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1

2

2

3

1

Stitch right up to the marking thread at the apex.

Finish the raw edges with overlock stitching.

Remove the gathering threads.

7Pin and sew the side seams, i.e. from the marking threads to the hem. Press the seam allowances open.

1

2

2

3

1

Page 19: Belle by - Fibre Mood · 2021. 6. 17. · Press the top of the side piece (3) towards the wrong side at the V notches. Open back out. Fold the raw edge down to meet the pressed fold

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8Press the hem allowance up at the V notches and then open back out.

Match the raw edge to the pressed fold line and fold up again.

Sew into place next to the edge.

9Sew the button to the RB.

1

2

1

2

1

1

2

2

1

2