behind the scenes - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/sri-lanka-13-index.pdf · tony...

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Annele Keller, Alex Jones, Alexa Vlaming, Andrea Meier, Andrew Crouch, Anette Czepu-lowski, Angelique Braat, Anne Catrien Gielens, Annemarie Robertsen, Annette Elben, Asit Mukhopadhyay B Binia Fraser, Birgit Malin, Blanc Nadine, Brat Caroline, Brian Woodgate C Catharian Kaffenberger, Cecilia Jensen, Cecilia Rovelli, Cheng Huang Leng, Chris Oey, Christopher Rowland, Colleen Mavris D Dani Carranza, David Bruce-Steer, David Dimasi, David Eisenrauch, David Engstrand, David Tay-lor, Dilsiri Welikala E Elad Wexler, Elisa Janszen, Erich Malter, Ernesto Sanchez Beaumont, Esther Hermans-Spijker F Floris and Marcella, Frans van Assendelft G Gabriel Corens, Gary Heiden, Gemma Stewart, George Fogh, Geral-dine Plas H Hans Ohrt, Herman Boerrigter I Irene Söding J James Smith, Jan Joost, Jane Mason, Javi Molina, Jean-Marc Legras, Jeroen Derichs, Jessy Nourrit, Joelle Abi Chaker, Joep van Schalkwijk, John Evans, John Moore, John Turner, Jon McGowan, Jonathan Meyer Harri-son, Julia Antonova K Karel Jan van den Heuvel Rijnders, Kathryn Smyth, Kathryn Stanczyszyn, Katia Begall, Kevin Callaghan, Krupa Thakrar L Léa Deswarte, Lin Chia Ying, Louisa Johns-son Zea & Mario Zea, Luis Navas M Maarten

Bavinck, Marc-Olivier Bergeron, Marieke Holl, Marius Muraska, Mariusz Lewicki, Mark Rimer, Markus Lindner, Matthew Ashbolt, Meike Sier, Melissa Lazell, Michael Konefal, Moana Mutscheller N Nadine Blanc, Natalie Hedges, Neil Hankinson, Neil Hart, Noor van Hapert O Olle Klint P Paul Buxton R Randi Johnbeck, Rita Mensink, Roger Race, Ronnie Dunetz, Rose Hawke S Sarah Parish, Saskia Beijering, Saskia Fernando, Shirin Reuvers, Shirley Sim, Siegfried Schoen, Soeren Finkbeiner, Søren & Grethe Iversen, Steve Jones, Stine Porsbjerg, Suzanne Hamilton T Thomas Winther An-dersen, Tim Giesberts, Tobias Vishvabaratha, Tony Knight, Tuomo Huuskonen V Véronique D’haens, Virginia Scott

AUTHOR THANKS Ryan Ver BerkmoesThanks to all who made my time in Sri Lanka a delight and shared valuable insights: Milroy Janaka and my old pal Juliet Coombe were extremely helpful. Thanks to the myriad others who answered questions and offered advice to a seemingly confused traveller who did a lot of note taking and always had one more question. Off island, love and thanks to former Sri Lanka resident Alexis Averbuck, who gave me reason to leave.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

326

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Stuart ButlerFirst and foremost I must, once again, thank my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Grace, for putting up with my extended pe-riods away while working on this project and (to Heather) for coping so admirably with two small children on her own. As always massive thanks to my Sri Lankan friends Dimuthu Priyadarshana and family, HA Anura, Milroy Fernando, Sena and Rashinika Kolamba-hewage, Stephanie and Palitha, Ramyadava Gunasekara, Juliet Coombe, Jai and Sumana and Sue and Faiesz, at Sharon Inn. Finally, thanks to all the other nameless Sri Lankans I pestered with questions about bus schedules and so on.

Iain StewartThanks to Somey for scenic rides and great company, Mark Wyndham and the crew for the bike trip, Dimuthu for his hospitality and all in Mannar and Jaffna. And to James Smart, Joe Bindloss and the Lonely Planet team for their professionalism and help on this title.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

Cover photograph: Stilt fishing, near Weligama. Jon Hicks/Corbis

THIS BOOK This 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Sri Lanka guidebook was researched and written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Stuart Butler and Iain Stewart. The previous two editions were written by Brett Atkinson, Stuart Butler, Ethan Gelber, Amy Karafin and Ryan Ver Berkmoes.

Destination Editors Joe Bindloss, James SmartProduct Editor Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Jessica RoseAssisting Editors Victoria Harrison, Kate Kiely, Kellie Langdon, Rosie Nicholson, Christopher Pitts, Erin Richards

Assisting Cartographers Mick Garrett, Corey Hutchison, Rachel ImesonCover Researcher Naomi Parker Language Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Ryan Evans, Claire Naylor, the Kates, Karyn Noble, Angela Tinson, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Wellicome

327©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 20, 304-5,

see also individual locations

budgeting 304languages 318, 320-1

activities 26-8, 39-45, see also art, Ayurvedic treatments, birdwatch-ing, boating, canoeing, cooking, cycling, danc-ing, diving, dolphin- watching, golfing, hiking, horse racing, kitesurfing, lace-making, meditating, paper-making, safaris, snorkelling, surfing, swimming, tennis, walking, watersports, whale-watching, white-water rafting, wildlife watching, windsurfing, yoga

Adam’s Bridge 261Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) 12,

28, 163-5, 192, 12Adisham Monastery 176afternoon tea 35Ahangama 121-2air travel 312, 313 airlines 312airports 312Aluthgama 95-8Aluvihara 196Amangalla 108Ambalangod 102Ampara 240-1Ancient Cities 54, 193-228,

194 accommodation 193Anuradhapura 10, 215-23,

281-2, 216, 10climate 193food 193

highlights 194 planning 193-4Polonnaruwa 14, 206-12,

283, 207, 208, 14Sigiriya 10, 200-4, 201,

2, 11tickets 157, 195, see

also individual locations

travel seasons 193animals, see wildlife

watching, individual animals

Anuradhapura 10, 215-23, 281-2, 216

accommodation 221-2festivals & events 221food 222history 215sights 215-21tickets 223tourist information 223tours 221travel to/from 223travel within 223

architecture 25, 72, see also colonial architecture

art galleries, see museums & galleries

Arugam Bay 11, 22, 233, 11accommodation 22, 234-6activities 233-4drinking 236-7food 236-7 safety 237tourist information 237travel to/from 237

ATMs 308Aukana Buddha 222Aurudu (New Year) 26Ayurvedic treatments 13, 25,

96, 307, 13Colombo 69-70Ella 182Hikkaduwa 101Kandy area 151, 161Mirissa 124

Negombo 90 Unawatuna 116-17, 118

BBadulla 185-6, 185bailas 283Bambalapitiya 68Bandarawela 178-9, 178bargaining 310bathrooms 309Batticaloa 242-5, 243, 24Bawa, Geoffrey 63, 72beaches 8, 14, 22, 23, 39-45

Arugam Bay 232-4, 238, 239, 11

Batticaloa 242, 24Bentota 95Chempiyanpattu 274Elephant Pass 273Galle 107, 115Goyambokka 129Hikkaduwa 98-9, 42Jaffna’s Islands 274-6Kalkudah 245-6 Kalpitiya 91-3Mannar Island 260-1Matara 126Mirissa 124, 39Mt Lavinia 68, 76Negombo 87, 88Nilaveli 253-4Passekudah 245-6Point Pedro 273southern Sri Lanka 103Talalla 128Tangalla 130, 131, 8 Trincomalee 249, 250Unawatuna 115-7, 118, 44 Uppuveli 251-2, 14

Belihul Oya 175Bentota 95-8bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds, see birdwatchingbirdwatching 24-5, 47, 50,

2, 10

Arugam Bay 234Bentota Ganga 95Bundala National Park

13, 134Galway’s Land National

Park 167-8Hikkaduwa 99Horton Plains National

Park 15, 174, 15Kitulgala 165Knuckles Range 161Koggala Lake 120Kumana Bird Reserve

239-40Minneriya National

Park 213Muthurajawela

Marsh 86Nalanda Gedige 197Negombo 88Pottuvil 237-8Pulmoddai 255Sinharaja Forest

Reserve 190Tangamalai 177Udawattakelle

Sanctuary 150Wilpattu National

Park 93-4Wirawila Wewa Bird

Sanctuary 137Uda Walawe

National Park 10, 22, 188-9, 10

Yala National Park 138-9, 2

boars 46-7, 138-9, 167-8, 173-4, 189-90

boating 43Batticaloa 245, 24Bentota Ganga 95Kandy 151 Pigeon Island National

Park 253-4Pottuvil 238

books 278, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 291, 295

Borella 64-5

328

IND

EX B-D

Bridge on the River Kwai 165

Buddha statues, see also Buddhist temples

Aluvihara 196Anuradhapura 219, 10Aukana Buddha 222Buduruwagala 187Dambulla 197-9, 31Degal Doruwa Raja

Maha Vihara 150Dowa Temple 179Maligawila 232, 5Mulkirigala 128Polonnaruwa 210, 14Pottuvil 238

Buddhangala Rock Hermitage 241

Buddhism 282, 297-8Buddhist sites, see also

Buddhist templesAdam’s Peak (Sri Pada)

12, 28, 163-5, 192, 12Aluvihara 196Anuradhapura 215-21, 10Buddhangala Rock

Hermitage 241Buduruwagala 187Dambulla Cave Temples

197-8, 31Deegawapi 241-2Kataragama 140-1Magul Maha Vihara 240Mandalagiri Vihara 213Mihintale 223-6Panduwasnuwara 227Pathma Vihara 232Ridi Vihara 227-8Ritigala Ruins 214-15Sigiriya 200-3, 2, 11Situlpahuwa 139Temple of the Sacred

Tooth Relic 15, 24, 145-9, 15, 28

Yapahuwa Rock Fortress 226-7

Yudaganawa 231-2Buddhist temples 23-4,

215, see also Buddhist sites, Buddhist statues, monasteries

Anuradhapura 215-21, 10Dambulla Cave Temples

197-8, 31Degal Doruwa Raja

Maha Vihara 150

Dowa Temple 179Gadaladeniya

Temple 160Gangarama Maha

Vihara 99Gangaramaya

Temple 63Kataluwa Purwarama

Temple 120Kelaniya Raja Maha

Vihara 69Kirinda Temple 138Kirivehara 140Kudimbigala Forest

Hermitage 239Lankatilake Temple

158, 160Mahiyangana

Dagoba 162Magul Maha

Vihara 240Mihintale 24, 223-6, 224Mulkirigala rock

temples 128Muthiyagana

Vihara 185Nagadipa Temple 275-6Polonnaruwa 206-10, 14Rakkhiththakanda

Len Viharaya Cave Temple 186

Ravanna Ella Temple 185

Ridi Vihara 227-8Rumassala Peace

Pagoda 115Sri Maha Bodhi 10Tanaveram

Buddhist Temple 128Temple of the Sacred

Tooth Relic 15, 24, 145-9, 15, 28

Tissa Dagoba 134-5Wewurukannala

Vihara 129Yatagala Raja Maha

Viharaya 115Yatala Wehera 134

budgeting 19, 304, 306Buduruwagala 187buffaloes 138, 188, 213,

234, 293Bundala National Park

13, 134, 13 Burghers 297bus travel 314, 316business hours 19, 308

Ccanals 86, 87canoeing 43

car travel 22, 250, 314-16Cargills Main Store 59, 16casinos 80cell phones 18, 19, 309cemeteries

Commonwealth War Cemetery 251

Kandy Garrison Cemetery 150

Kandy War Cemetery 158

Ceylon Tea Museum 149children, travel with 51-2,

154Christianity 299churches & cathedrals

Dutch Reformed Church 107

Our Lady of Madhu Church 262

St Anthony’s 69St Lucia’s 69St Mark’s Church 185St Paul’s Church 150St Peter’s Church 59Wolvendaal Church 61

Cinnamon Gardens 64-5 classes

art 70cooking 35, 70, 96,

112, 113, 117, 126, 182-3, 212

dance 102diving 45, 87, 88, 99,

117, 123, 243, 251, 254kitesurfing 87, 41lace-making 114meditation 70, 96,

155, 160 paper-making 114surfing 42-3, 99, 121,

11, 42watersports 95windsurfing 43yoga 96, 115-17, 129,

235, 239climate 18, 26-8, 40, see

also individual regionsColombo 17, 53, 56-83,

57, 60-1, 64-5, 68, 16, 17

accommodation 22, 56, 71-5

activities 69-70climate 56drinking & nightlife 78-9emergency services 82entertainment 79-80festivals & events 70-1food 56, 75-8, 21

highlights 57history 58internet access 82itineraries 58neighbourhoods 59planning 56-7safety 82shopping 17, 22, 80-2sights 58-63, 67-9tourist information 82tours 70travel seasons 56travel to/from 82-3travel within 63, 83

Colombo Fort 60-1Colombo to Kandy 144Colombo to Negombo 86colonial architecture 16, 25

Colombo 22, 58-63, 67-9, 16

Galle 13, 22, 105, 107-8, 13

Jaffna 263-7 Matara 126

consulates 305-6cooking classes 35

Beruwela 96Colombo 70Ella 182-3Galle 112, 113Giritale 212 Matara 126Unawatuna 117

courses, see classescredit cards 308cricket 80, 108crocodiles 86, 93, 134,

138-9, 188, 213, 239-40, 245, 294

cultural triangle, see Ancient Cities

currency 18curry 37, see also foodcustoms regulations 305cycling 313-14, 316

Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) 164

Anuradhapura 223Giritale 212Jaffna 271Kandy 151Nuwara Eliya 169 Polonnaruwa 212

DDambatenne Tea

Factory 176Dambulla 197-200


329IN

DEX D

-HDambulla Cave Temples

197-8, 198, 31dancing 102dangers, see safetydeer 47, 93, 138-9, 188,

190, 213-14Degal Doruwa Raja

Maha Vihara 150Dehiwala 70Dematal Vihara 232Dikwella 129disabilities, travellers

with 310discount cards 305diving 23, 40, 45, 316

Batticaloa 243Dutch Bay 92Great Basses 137 Hikkaduwa 98Kalpitiya 92Negombo 87, 88Nilaveli 253-4Unawatuna 117Uppuveli 251Weligama 123

dolphin-watching 43, 45, 44

Dutch Bay 92Kalpitiya 91-2Uppuveli 252

Dondra 128drinks 34-8, see also tea,

individual locationsbudgeting 306languages 318-19, 321 tipping 21, 308

driving 22, 250, 314-16Duruthu Perahera 26Dutch Bay 91-3Dutch Canal 86Dutch Fort, Batticaloa 242Dutch Fort, Negombo 86

EEast Sri Lanka 54,

229-55, 230accommodation 229climate 229food 229highlights 230planning 229-30travel seasons 229

eating 34-8, see also food, individual locations

economy 21, 278-9electricity 305Elephant Pass 267, 273-4elephants 10, 13, 47, 134,

293-4

Arugam Bay 234Ampara 240Elephant Transit

Home 188Kaudulla National

Park 213-14Millennium Elephant

Foundation 144Minneriya National

Park 213-14Pinnewala Elephant

Orphanage 144Uda Walawe National

Park 188Yala National Park

138-40, 2, 48Ella 179-84, 180

accommodation 181-2drinking 182-3food 182-3shopping 183tourist information 183travel to/from 183-4

Ella environs 184-5, 184Ella Rock 180embassies 305-6Embilipitiya 187-8emergencies 319, 321,


endangered species 294environmental issues 118,

292-5etiquette 21

beaches 41photography 308-9temples 215

exchange rates 19

Ffestivals & events 26-8,

28, see also poya, individual locations

Kandy Esala Perahera 149

Kataragama Festival 141

Vesak Festival 163food 14, 34-8, 77, 14,

21, 36, see also individual locations

budgeting 306languages 318-19,

321, 322 tipping 21, 308

forts 284Batticaloa 242Colombo 58-9Galle 13, 105, 107-8, 13Jaffna 265-6

Karaitivu 276Mannar Town 260Matara 126Negombo 86Trincomalee 247Yapahuwa 226-7

frescoesAluvihara 196Kolawenigama

Temple 190Sigiriya 201-2, 2Tivanka Image

House 210Yapahuwa 226-7

fruit 34, 172, 36

GGalle 13, 104-15, 106, 111,

13, 24accommodation 22,

109-10, 112activities 108-9drinking & nightlife 113-14festivals & events 109food 22, 112-13history 104-5shopping 114sights 105, 107-8tourist information 114travel to/from 114-15travel within 114-15

Galle Face Green 61-2, 21Galle Fort 13, 110-11, 13Galway’s Land National

Park 22Gangaramaya Temple 24gay travellers 306gem stones 192Giritale 212-13golfing 151, 169Goyambokka 129-30

HHabarana 204-6Hambantota 136Haputale 175-8, 176health 306-8Helga’s Folly 152Henerathgoda Botanic

Gardens 144hiking, see also walking

Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) 163

Ella 180-1Haputale 177Kandy 151Kitulgala 165

Knuckles Range 161-2Monaragala 230Pidurutalagala 169

Hikkaduwa 98-102, 99, 42Hikkaduwa National

Park 98Hill Country 54, 142-92,

143accommodation 142climate 142food 142highlights 143planning 142-3travel seasons 142

Hindu temples 16, 28Anipandi Sitivigniswara

Alayar 242Colombo 61, 69Embekka Devale 158Gadaladeniya Temple

160Kandasamy Kovil 247-9Kataragama Devale 185Kathiresan Kovil 61Lankatilake Temple

158, 160Maha Devale 140 Munneswaram 91Naga Pooshani Amman

Kovil 275Naguleswaram Shiva

Kovil 271Nalanda Gedige 197Nallur Kandaswamy

Kovil 263-5, 271Okanda Sri Murugan

Kovil 239Polonnaruwa 206-10Ravanna Ella Temple 185Salli Muthumariamunam

Kovil 251Seetha Amman Temple

169Sivam Kovil 140Sri Muthumariamman

Kovil 69Sri Muthumariamman

Thevasthanam 196Sri Ponnambalam

Vanesar Kovil 69Thiruchendur Murugan

Alayam Temple 242Thirukketeeswaram

Kovil 261Thurkkai Amman

Kovil 271Valipura Kovil 273

Hinduism 298-9history 280-91

after the tsunami 289Anuradhapura 281-2

330

IND

EX H-M

history, continuedbirth of the Tigers

286-7end of the war 289-91Polonnaruwa 283prehistory & early

arrivals 280-1road to independence

285-6trade & conquest

283-4 war & attempts at

peace 287-9hitching 316holidays 309Ho-o-maniya

Blowhole 129horse racing 169Horton Plains

National Park 15, 173-5, 15

human rights 278-9Hundungoda Tea

Estate 121

IInduruwa 95-8insurance 306, 308internet access 308,


internet resources 19Islam 299itineraries 29-33, 29-33

JJaffna 16, 262-71, 264-5,

16, 28accommodation 267-8drinking 268-9festivals & events 267food 268-9 history 263internet access 270shopping 269-70sights 263-7tourist information 270travel to/from 270-1travel within 271

Jaffna & the North 54, 256-76, 257

accommodation 256climate 256, 258food 256highlights 257

history 258planning 256-7safety 263travel seasons 256, 258

Jaffna Fort 265-6Jaffna Peninsula 22, 271-4,

272Jaffna’s Islands 274-6Japanese Peace

Pagoda 240

KKalpitiya 91-3Kandy 15, 144-58, 146-7,

15, 28accommodation 151-4activities 150-1drinking & nightlife 155entertainment 155food 154internet access 156safety 156shopping 155-6sights 145-50tourist information 156-7travel to/from 157travel within 158

Kandy environs 158-62, 159

Kandy Esala Perahera 27, 149

Kandy Lake 145Kandy to Nuwara Eliya 166Kandy War Cemetery 158Kandyan dance 156Kantarodai Ruins 271Karaitivu 276Kataragama 140-1, 140Kaudulla National

Park 213, 213-14Keerimalai spring 272kitesurfing 43, 41

Dutch Bay 92Kalpitiya 92Negombo 87

Kitulgala 165-6, 43Knuckles Range 161-2Koggala Lake 120Kollupitiya 64-5 Koslanda 186kotthu 77, see also foodKudimbigala Forest

Hermitage 239Kumana National Park

239-40Kurunegala 228

L

Labookellie Tea Factory 166languages 18, 21, 318-24

Sinhala 318-20Sri Lankan English 322Tamil 320-2

legal matters 308leopards 138

Kumana National Park 239-40

Sinharaja Forest Reserve 190

Wilpattu National Park 93, 48

lesbian travellers 306Liberation Tigers of

Tamil Eelam 274, 286-91

Lighthouse Point 238Lionel Wendt Centre 67Lipton, Thomas 175literature 278Little Adam’s Peak 180

MMagul Maha Vihara 240Maha Sivarathri 26Mahiyangana Dagoba 162Maligawila 232, 5Mandalagiri Vihara 213Mannar Island 260-2maps 308Marawila 91markets

Aluthgama 95Bandarawela 178Batticaloa 242Colombo 60, 77, 81,

82, 17Dambulla 199Galle 108, 119Jaffna 269-70Kandy 155Matara 127Monaragala 230Negombo 86-7Nuwara Eliya 169Ratnapura 192Udappuwa 91

masks 102, 310Matale 195-7Matara 126-8, 127measures 309medical services 306,


meditatingBeruwela 96Colombo 63, 70Kandy 150, 155, 160

Mannar Island 261Midigama 121-2Mihintale 24, 223-6, 224military 275, 278Millennium Elephant


Park 213-14Mirissa 17, 123-6, 17, 39mobile phones 18, 19, 309Monaragala 231monasteries, see also

Buddhist templesAbhayagiri 218-19Adisham Monastery

176-7Aluvihara 196 Gal Vihara 210, 14 Indikatu Seya 226Ritigala ruins 214Sigiriya 10, 200-3, 2, 11

money 18, 19, 21, 308, 310moneychangers 308monkeys 46-7, 86, 138-9,

150Moors 297mosques

Auliya Mosque 242Dewata-Gaha

Mosque 67Grand Jummah

Mosque 259Grand Mosque 61Jami-ul-Alfar 61Ul-Khizr Mosque 141

motorcycle travel 314-16Mt Lavinia 70 Mulkirigala 24, 128museums & galleries

Abhayagiri Museum 219Archaeological Museum,

Anuradhapura 220 Archaeological Museum,

Deegawapi 242Archaeological Museum,

Jaffna 266-7Archaeological Museum,

Polonnaruwa 207Archaeological Museum,

Vavuniya 258Archaeological Museum,

Wellawaya 187Ariyapala Mask

Museum 102Central Point 59Ceylon Tea Museum 149Dambulla Museum 199Dutch Period Museum 61Folk Museum 220Gangaramaya Temple 63


331IN

DEX M

-R Geoffrey Bawa House 63Jaffna Archaelogical

Museum 266-7Jaffna Art Gallery 270Jetavanarama

Museum 219-20Kataragama Museum 141Lionel Wendt Centre 67Marine Archeological

Museum 107-8Martin Wickramasinghe

Folk Art Museum 120Mihintale Museum 226National Art Gallery 67National Maritime

Museum 108National Museum,

Colombo 67National Museum,

Galle 108National Museum,

Kandy 149-50Rangala House

Gallery 155Saskia Fernando

Gallery 67Sigiriya Museum 203Shoba Display

Gallery 14Temple of the

Sacred Tooth Relic 15, 24, 145-9, 15, 28

Traditional Puppet Art Museum 68

Tsunami Photo Museum 100

World Buddhism Museum 148-9

Vavuniya 258Yapahuwa 227

Muthurajawela Marsh 86

NNagadipa 24Nainativu (Nagadipa)

275-6Nalanda Gedige 197National Museum,

Colombo 67National Museum,

Galle 108National Museum,

Kandy 149-50national parks & reserves

46-50, 139, see also parks & gardens

Bundala National Park 13, 134, 13

Galway’s Land National Park 22, 167-8

Hikkaduwa National Park 98

Horton Plains National Park 15, 173-5, 15

Kaudulla National Park 213-14

Kottawa Conservation Forest 115

Kumana Bird Reserve 239-40

Kumana National Park 239-40

Minneriya National Park 213-14

Pigeon Island National Park 253-4

Ritigala Strict Nature Reserve 214-15

Sinharaja Forest Reserve 189-92

Uda Walawe National Park 10, 22, 188-9, 10

Wilpattu National Park 22, 93-4

Wirawila Wewa Bird Sanctuary 137-8


Neduntivu (Delft) 276Negombo 86-91, 87, 88

accommodation 88-90activities 87-8drinking & nightlife 90food 90sights 86-7tourist information 90travel to/from 91travel within 91

Negombo to Kalpitiya 91newspapers 309Nilaveli 253-5, 254North Sri Lanka 54,

256-76, 257accommodation 256climate 256, 258food 256highlights 257history 258planning 256-7safety 263travel seasons 256, 258

Nuwara Eliya 166-73, 168activities 169drinking 173food 172history 167sights 167-9sleeping 170-2tourist information 173

tours 170travel to/from 173

OOld Dutch Hospital 58opening hours 19, 308

PPadeniya Raja

Mahavihara 227palmyra 269Panama 239Panduwasnuwara 227parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Brief Garden 95Henerathgoda Botanic

Gardens 144Peradeniya Botanic

Gardens 158Royal Pleasure

Gardens 220Victoria Park 167Viharamahadevi

Park 67passports 312Pearl Island 260people 296-9Peradeniya Botanic

Gardens 158Pettah 60-1 Pettah Markets 60, 17photography 308-9Pidurangala Rock 203Pigeon Island National


Orphanage 144planning, see also

individual regionsbudgeting 19, 304, 306calendar of events 26-8children 51-2, 154drinks 34-8exchange rates 19first-time visitors 20-1flag 290food 34-8, 14, 21, 36internet resources 19itineraries 29-33repeat visitors 22Sri Lankan basics 18-19Sri Lankan regions 53-4telephone services 19travel seasons 18, 26-8

Point Pedro 273politics 278-9

Polonnaruwa 14, 206-12, 283, 207, 208, 14

accommodation 210-11food 211history 206internet access 211sights 206-10tickets 211tourist information

211-12travel to/from 212travel within 212

population 279Pottuvil 237-8, 238Pottuvil Lagoon 237-8poya 27, 298, 309, see also

festivals & eventspublic holidays 309Pulmoddai 255Punkudutivu 275

RRajapaksa, Mahinda 278-9Ratnapura 192Rawana 249religion 279, 297-9reserves, see national

parks & reserves, parks & gardens

responsible travel 295Ridi Vihara 227-8Ritigala Ruins 214-15Ritigala Strict Nature

Reserve 214-15 rock monasteries &

temples Buddhangala Rock

Hermitage 241Dambulla Cave Temples

197-8, 198, 31 Gal Vihara 210Isurumuniya Vihara

220-1Mulkirigala 128Sigiriya 10, 200-3,

201, 2, 11Yapahuwa Rock

Fortress 226-7Yatagala Raja Maha

Viharaya 115ruins

Anuradhpura 217-9 Colombo 86 Deegawapi 241-2Jaffna 266Kantarodai 271Mandalagiri Vihara 213Mihintale 223-6Panduwasnuwara 227

332

IND

EX R-W

ruins, continuedPolonnaruwa 208-209 Pottuvil 238Ritigala Strict Nature

Reserve 214

Ssafaris 46-50, 316, see

also national parks & reserves

Kumana National Park 240

Kaudulla National Park 213

Minneriya National Park 213-4

Wilpattu National Park 93-4

Uda Walawe National Park 188-9, 10


safety 306, 309 Arugam Bay 237Colombo 82 diving 45hitching 316Jaffna 263Kandy 156 North Sri Lanka 262swimming 40-1World’s End 174

salt pans 255sea travel 313shopping 25, 310, see

also individual locations

bargaining 310 languages 319, 321opening hours 308

Sigiriya 10, 200-4, 201, 2, 11

Sinhala language 318-20Sinhalese people 296Sinharaja Forest

Reserve 189-92Situlpahuwa, 139sloth bears 93, 138,

188, 214smoking 309snorkelling 23, 40, 45

Bentota 95Dutch Bay 92Hikkaduwa 98Kalpitiya 92

Marble Beach 250Nilaveli 253-4Pigeon Island 254Unawatuna 117 Weligama 123

South Sri Lanka 53, 103-41, 104

accommodation 103beaches 103climate 103highlights 104planning 103-4travel seasons 103

spice gardens 195sports, see individual

activities, individual sports

Sri Maha Bodhi 10, 24, 215-17, 294

Star Fortress 260stilt fishermen 120strawberries 172surfing 42-3

Ahangama 121Arugam Bay 11, 233-4, 11Hikkaduwa 99, 42Midigama 121Panama 239Pottuvil 238Weligama 123Whiskey Point 238

Swami Rock 247Swayamghu Lingam 249swimming 40-1

Arugam Bay 234Colombo 71 Karaitivu 276Kottawa Conservation

Forest 115 Marble Beach 250Passekudah Beach 246 Urumale 261

TTalalla 128-9Tamil language 320-2Tamil people 296Tamil Tigers, see Liberation

Tigers of Tamil Eelam Tangalla 22, 130-3, 132, 8tanks 282

Anuradhapura 220Minneriya Tank 214Sigiriya 202Tissa Wewa 134

Taprobane Island 123taxis 316tea 35, 149, 300-2, 31,

see also drinks, tea plantations

tea plantations 12, 166, 302, see also tea

Dambatenne Tea Factory 176

Hundungoda Tea Estate 121

Labookellie Tea Factory 166

Newburgh Green Tea Factory 180, 31

Pedro Tea Estate 167, 12Uva Halpewaththa

Tea Factory 184-5telephone services 18, 309Temple of the Sacred

Tooth Relic 24, 145-9, 15, 28

tennis 169theft 308three-wheelers 316time 18, 309tipping 21, 308Tissa Wewa 134 Tissamaharama 22, 134-7,

135toilets 309tourism 279tourist information 310,


tours 316, see also individual locations

car travel 315cycling 313 tea 302 walking 70, 108, 110-11

train travel 8, 22, 316-17transport 312-17, see also

individual locationshighways 315languages 320, 322travel to/from

Sri Lanka 312-13travel within

Sri Lanka 313-17travel seasons, see also

individual regionstravel to/from

Sri Lanka 312-13travel within

Sri Lanka 313-17trekking, see hikingTrincomalee 247-51, 248tsunami 118Tsunami Photo

Museum 100turtles 94, 130, 131, 134,

239-40, 253-4TV 309

UUda Walawe National Park

10, 22, 188-9, 10Unawatuna 115-20, 116, 44

accommodation 117-19activities 115-17drinking 119food 119internet access 120tourist information

119-20travel to/from 120travel within 120

Unesco World Heritage Sites 25, 294

Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada) 12, 28, 163-5, 192, 12

Anuradhapura 10, 215-21, 10

Central Highlands 15Dambulla Cave

Temples 197-8, 31Galle Fort 13, 105,

107-8, 13Horton Plains National

Park 15, 173-5, 15Jaffna 16, 262-71,

264-5, 16Kandy 15, 144-58,

146-7, 15, 28Knuckles Range 161-2Polonnaruwa 14, 206-12,

283, 207, 208, 14Sigiriya 10, 200-4,

201, 2, 11Sinharaja Forest

Reserve 189-92Uppuveli 251-3, 252, 14Uva Halpewaththa Tea

Factory 184-5

Vvacations 309vaccinations 306-7vahalkadas 225Valvettiturai 272-3Vavuniya 258-60, 258Veddahs 162, 280, 296Velanai 275Vesak Poya 27Viharamahadevi

Park 67visas 18, 310-11volunteering 311

WWaikkal 91walking 23, see also hiking,


333IN

DEX W

-Y Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada)

12, 28, 163-5, 192, 12Colombo 70Ella 180-1Galle Fort 108, 110-11, 111Haputale 177Kandy 150Kataragama 141Knuckles Range 161-2Kottawa Conservation

Forest 115Monaragala 231Nuwara Eliya 169Tissamaharama 22, 134Unawatuna 117World’s End 15, 174-5, 15

waterfallsBambarakanda Falls 175Diyaluma Falls 186Dunhinda Falls 185-6Kiruwananaganga

Falls 190Lovers Leap 168Ramboda Falls 166Rawana Ella Falls 185

watersports Bentota 95Uppuveli 251

weather 18, 26-8, 40websites, see internet

resourcesWeligama 123Wellawatta 68 Wellawaya 186-7West Sri Lanka 53,

84-102, 85accommodation 84climate 84food 84highlights 85planning 84-5travel seasons 84

Wewurukannala Vihara 129

whale-watching 40, 43, 45Dutch Bay 92Kalpitiya 92Mirissa 17, 124, 17Trincomalee 247Uppuveli 252, 254

Whiskey Point 238white-water rafting 40, 43,

165, 316, 43wildlife watching 24-5,

46-7, 50, 234, 292, 293-4, 295, 316, see also individual animals

Arugam Bay 234Bundala National

Park 13, 134, 13Horton Plains National

Park 15, 173-4, 15Kaudulla National

Park 213-14Kumana National

Park 239-40Millennium Elephant



Orphanage 144Pottuvil 237-8Sinharaja Forest

Reserve 189-90Turtle Watch Rekawa 130Uda Walawe National

Park 10, 22, 188-9, 10

Wilpattu National Park 22, 93-4, 48

Yala National Park 138-9, 2, 48

Wilpattu National Park 22, 93-4

windsurfing 43, 95Wirawila Wewa Bird

Sanctuary 137-8Wolvendaal Church 61women travellers 311World’s End 15, 173-5, 15

YYala National Park 138-

40, 2Yapahuwa 226-7yoga

Arugam Bay 235, 239Beruwela 96Habarana 204Kandy 153, 161Talalla 129Unawatuna 115-17, 118

Yudaganawa 231-2

334

NO

TES

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