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438438

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alex Wharton, Amy Nguyen, Andrew Selth, Angela Tucker, Anita Kuiper, Annabel Dunn, An-nette Lüthi, Anthony Lee, Bernard Keller, Carina Hall, Christina Pefani, Christoph Knop, Chris-toph Mayer, Claudia van Harten, Claudio Strep-parava, Dalibor Mahel, Damian Gruber, David Jacob, Don Stringman, Elisabeth Schwab, Elisabetta Bernardini, Erik Dreyer, Florian Boos, Gabriella Wortmann, Garth Riddell, Gerd Eichele, Gill Reeves, Gillian Kennedy, Gregory Kipling, Guillaume Murris, Hans-Martin Stech, Helle MØller Jensen, Ida Degani, Ilona van der lee, Izzie Robinson, Jan den Boer, Jeff Randall, Jim Loughran, Joanna Benefield, Johannes Gregoritsch, John Schilling, Joost Sneller, Julia Oppel, Justin Straub, Kathrin Zormeier, Kees Mol, Ken Riekie, Luaay Elamir, Madeline Oliver, Manuela Wehrle, Maria Aviles, Marjolaine & Hanael Sfez, Martijn den Boer, Maurice Michon, Mauro Mori, Melissa Goldstein, Merja Akerlind, Michael Darley, Michal Rudziecki, Mollot Brice, Nigel Holmes, Noah Impekoven, Oddgeir Havn, Pamela Walker, Peter Novak, Philip Green, Rebecca Rosz, Ruth Banks, Sebastian Lübbert, Silke Wimme, Simon Spillmann, Simona Demel, Simone Schneider, Sjoerd Gilin, Stefan Arestis,

Tamara Decaluwe, Terence Boley, Thomas Van Loock, Tim Elliott, Ylwa Alwarsdotter

WRITER THANKSSimon RichmondMany thanks to my fellow authors and the fol-lowing people in Yangon: William Myatwunna, Thant Myint-U, Edwin Briels, Jessica Mudditt, Jaiden Coonan, Tim Aye-Hardy, Ben White, Myo Aung, Marcus Allender, Jochen Meissner, Khin Maung Htwe, Vicky Bowman, Don Wright, James Hayton, Jeremiah Whyte and Jon Keesecker.

David EimerSpecial thanks to Jochen Meissner for his in-valuable Chin State insights, John in Tiddim for his local guidance and Marcus Allender. Thanks also to Laura Crawford at Lonely Planet for her support. As ever, thanks to everyone who passed on tips along the way, whether know-ingly or unwittingly.

Adam KarlinCè-zù ba: first and foremost, my family: Po Chan, Tin Tin, Po Zaw and of course, my pwa nghe and beloved great aunt, the strongest woman I know: Tin Tin Thein. Thanks as well to mom and dad for always making Myanmar a central part of my life, to Laura for bringing me

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

439BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

on board, to co-authors for all their help, and to Rachel and Sanda for the love that keeps me going. This book is for Gizmo.

Nick RayA big thanks to the people of Myanmar, whose warmth and humour, stoicism and spirit make it a happy yet humbling place to be. Thanks to fellow travellers and residents, friends and contacts in Myanmar who have helped shaped my knowledge and expe-rience in this country. Biggest thanks are reserved for my wife, Kulikar, and children, Julian and Belle, as without their support and encouragement the occasional adventure in unexplored corners of the region would not be possible.

Regis St LouisI’m deeply grateful to many in Myanmar – drivers, guides, innkeepers, students and countless others – who provided tips and

insight into this great country. I’d also like to thank Win Tun and his family, Dr Chan Aye, Naw May Say, San Moe Zar, Mya Mya, Cho Oo, Armelle, Naing Naing, Maythinzar Soe, Simone Herault, Rosta, Tina Rehm, Edwin Briels and fellow authors Nick Ray, Simon Richmond, David Eimer and Adam Karlin. Biggest thanks to Cassandra and our daugh-ters, Magdalena and Genevieve, for their enduring support.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Local fisher in Inle Lake, Marco Bottigelli/AWL©

Illustration p46–47 by Michael Weldon

THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Myanmar (Burma) guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond, David Eimer, Adam Karlin, Nick Ray and Regis St Louis. The previous two editions were written by Austin Bush, David Eimer, Mark Elliott, Nick Ray

and Simon Richmond. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Laura CrawfordProduct Editor Grace DobellSenior Cartographers Alison Lyall, Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Jessica RoseAssisting Editors Imogen

Bannister, Pete Cruttenden, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Rosie Nicholson, Kristin Odijk, Simon WilliamsonCartographer Mick GarrettCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Ryan Evans, Kirsten Rawlings, Kathryn Rowan, Moe Pwint Phyu, Lyahna Spencer, Amanda Williamson

440

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AA Myint 179accommodation 25-6, 407,

see also individual locations

language 432activities 17, 19-20, 29, see

also cycling, golf, hikingballooning 156-7, 245boxing 58cooking courses 88, 157diving 137kayaking 297meditation courses 59,

246, 410snorkelling 99-100, 102swimming 56, 58, 245whitewater rafting 305yoga 58

air travel 418-19Akauk Taung 151alcohol 382Amarapura 261-3, 262amusement parks

Kyet Minn Nyi Naung Amusement Park 144

Natural World Amusement Park 51

Ananda Pahto Festival 19animals 397-8

crocodiles 55elephants 219, 397tigers 401

antiques 256archaeological zones

Mrauk U 318-25Tharabar Gate 187

architecture 65, 388-9area codes 15art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 389-95

ATMs 410Aung Mingalar Island 99Aung San, Bogyoke

(General) 342-4Aung San Suu Kyi 346-51,

366-71Ava 263-6, 265Ayeyarwady River 291-304Aykab 314-18, 316

BBagan 10, 156-71, 180-95,

181, 184, 10, 61highlights 181history 181-3information 157itineraries 188Myinkaba 167New Bagan 167-71, 169Nyaung U 158-64, 159Old Bagan 164-7, 166orientation 157temples 180-95, 181,

184-5, 10, 61travel to/from 157travel within 157-8

Bago 88-94, 90-1ballooning

Bagan 156-7Mandalay 245

Bamar people 352-3banks 410Banmaw 297-9Baronga Island 318beaches

Chaung Tha Beach 99-102Kan Thar Ya Beach 313-14Maungmagan 127Nabule 127Ngapali Beach 309-13,

310Ngwe Saung Beach 102-4Setse Beach 118Teyzit 127

Bhamo (Banmaw) 297-9bicycle travel, see cycling

Bilu Kyun (Ogre Island) 117Bird Island 102Black Rock 135Bo Cho Kyun (Eyles Island)

135Bo Wei Kyun (Stewart

Island) 137 boat travel 421-3

Ayeyarwady River 292-3Yangon 56, 58

boat trips 27-8Bagan 156, 165, 27Inle Lake 207, 209Mandalay 245Myeik 133Myeik Archipelago 137-8

books 29, 322, 336, 394-5border crossings 418, 419

Mae Sai (Thailand) 230Mae Sot (Thailand) 126Phu Nam Ron (Thailand)

129Ranong (Thailand) 139Ruili (China) 289

boxing 58bridges

Ava Bridge 268Bamboo Bridge 298Gokteik Viaduct 280, 18U-Bein Bridge 261-2

Buddhism 359-62Buddhist monasteries

Bagaya Kyaung 263-4Ko Yin Lay 119-20Kya Kha Wain Kyaung 91Kyauk Kalap 124-5Kyo Aung Sanda 263Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung

244Maha Aungmye Bonzan

264Maha Ganayon Kyaung

263Mimalaung Kyaung 185Myaing Gyi 280Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya

Monastery 116

Pakhangyi 175Sasanayaunggyi Kyaung

174Shwe Baw Kyune 299Shwe In Bin Kyaung 241Shwe Kyaung 150Shwenandaw Kyaung 237Sitagu Buddhist Academy

268Snake Monastery 92Thingaza Kyaung 244

Buddhist sitesPeshawar Relics 239Pitaka Taik 187

Buddhist templesAbeyadana Pahto 192-3An Daw Paya 299Ananda Ok Kyaung 189Ananda Pahto 187-9Anandar Paya 139Anauk (West) Petleik

Paya 193Andaw Paya

(Mrauk U) 320Andaw Paya (Thandwe)

312Ashe (East) Petleik

Paya 193Atumashi Kyaungdawgyi

244Aung Chan Tha Zedi 218Aung Htu Kan Tha Paya

280Bawgyo Paya 283-4Bodhi Tataung 179Botataung Paya 36-7Bu Paya Zedi 133Buledi 189Bupaya 187Central Pagoda 284Chaukhtatgyi Paya 51Daw Gyan 264Dhammayangyi Pahto 190Dhammayazika Paya 194Dukkanthein Paya 320Eight-Faces Paya 193Eindawya Paya 240

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

441IN

DEX B

- CGawdawpalin Pahto

183, 185Gubyaukgyi 191-2Gubyauknge 189Haridaung Paya 323Hintha Gon Paya 90Hsin Khaung Taung

Kyaung 215Hsinbyume Paya 270Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw

291Htilaingshin Paya 265Htilominlo Pahto 189Htuparyon Paya 268Kaba Aye Paya 55Kan Tu Kyaung 215Kaunghmudaw Paya 268Kondawgyi Pahto 195Kothaung Paya 322, 12Kuthodaw Paya 240Kyaik Pun Paya 90-1Kyaik-Khauk Paya 87Kyaikmaraw Paya 118-19Kyaikthanlan Paya

111, 28Kyaiktiyo Galay Zedi 108Kyanzittha Umin 195Kyat Kan Kyaung 195Kyauk Daw Kyi 56Kyauk Gu Ohnmin 195Kyauk-si-yo Zedi 108Kyauktalon Taung 116Kyauktawgyi Paya

(Amarapura) 262Kyauktawgyi Paya

(Mandalay) 239Laungbanpyauk Paya

320Lawkananda Paya 193Laymyetnha Paya 322Leikyunyinaung Paya 97Leimyethna Pahto 194Lokananda Paya 315Maha Aung Mye Bon

Thar Pagoda 276Maha Bodayaong 288Maha Kalyani Sima 91-2Maha Myaing Pagoda

108Maha Wizaya Zedi 53Mahabodhi Mingala

Zedi 97Mahabodhi Paya 187Mahabodhi Shwegu 320Mahamuni (Bahaman)

Paya 111, 5Mahamuni Paya

(Mandalay) 241Mahamuni Paya (Mrauk

U) 325-6

Mahamyatmuni Paya (Hsipaw) 284

Mahamyatmuni Paya (Lashio) 288

Mahazedi Paya 91Mann Paya 174Manuha Paya 192Meilamu Paya 55Mingalazedi Paya 191Mingun Paya 269Mya Tha Lun Paya 155Myasigon Paya 144Myikyaungon Paya 126Myo Le Dhamma Yon 211Nagayon 193Nan Paya 192Nandamannya Pahto 195Nandaw Paya 312Nga Hpe Kyaung

(Jumping Cat Monastery) 206

Ngahtatgyi Paya 51Nget Pyaw Taw Pagoda

215Nogatataphu Paya 264Nwa-la-bo Pagoda 116Nyaung Ohak 206Omwara Paya 174Pada Myar Zeidy 290Pahtodawgyi 263Pahtothamya 185Paya Thonzu 174Payagyi (Budalin) 179Payagyi (Dawei) 128-9Payathonzu 194Peisi Daung Paya 322Pharaouk Paya 322Phaung Daw Oo Paya

207Phaung Daw U Paya 289Pinya Stupa Ruins 241-2Popa Taung Kalat Temple

172Pyathada Paya 191Ratana San Rwe Paya

& Ratana Hman Kin Paya 322

Ratanabon Paya 320Ratanamanaung 322Sakyamanaung Paya 322Sandamuni Paya 264Sandaw Paya 312Sanminedidisiv Paya

327-8Seindon Mibaya Kyaung

112Setkyathiha Paya 240Settayaw Paya 97Shin Pin Nan Kain 268Shinpinsarkyo Paya 174

Shittaung Paya 319-20Shwe Daza Paya 302-3Shwe Inn Thein Paya 206Shwe-kyet-kya 268Shwe Kyina Paya 297Shwe Muay Wan Paya

126Shwe Myauk Taung 264Shwe Myitsu Paya 296Shwe Phone Pye Paya

211Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung

197, 2Shwedagon Paya 8-9,

45-50, 8-9Shwegugale Paya 91Shwegugyi 186Shwekyimyint Paya 240Shwemawdaw Paya

(Bago) 89Shwemawdaw Paya

(Ye) 120Shwemokhtaw Paya 94-5Shwemyetman Paya 154Shwesandaw Paya

(Bagan) 190Shwesandaw Paya

(Pyay) 151-2Shwesandaw Paya

(Taungoo) 143-4Shwesandaw Paya

(Twante) 88Shwesandaw Paya

(Ye) 120Shwetaung Paya 323Shwethalyaung Buddha

89-90Shwethalyaung Daw

Mu & Shinmokhti Paya 129

Shweyinhmyaw Paya 121Shwezedi Kyaung 314-15Shwezigon Paya (Bagan)

195Shwezigon Paya (Inwa)

264Sittana Paya 193Snake Pagoda 270Somingyi Kyaung 193Soon U Pon Nya Shin

Paya 266-7Sulamani Pahto 190-1Sulamuni Paya 211Sule Paya 37-8Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw

96Tayok Pye Paya 194Thabeik Hmauk 191Thambula Pahto 194Thanboddhay Paya 178-9Tharkong Pagoda 207

That Luang Mong La 228Thatbyinnyu Pahto 186Thein Taung Paya 217-18Theindawgyi Paya (Bago)

297-8Theindawgyi Paya

(Myeik) 131Thetkyamuni 195Tilawkaguru 267-8Twenty-Eight Paya 97U Khanti Paya 112U Zina Paya 111-12Uppatasanti Paya 147Wat In 225Wat Jong Kham 225Wat Yang Kon 226Werawsana Jade Pagoda

262-3Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi

189Win Sein Taw Ya 116, 11Yadana Man Aung Paya

197, 201Yan Aung Nan Aung Hsu

Taung Pye Paya 197Yanpaymanpay Paya 332Yat Taw Mu 225Yat Taw Mu Pagoda 211Yele Paya 87-8Youqson Kyaung 174

budget 15Burma 25Burmese Empire 338-40bus travel 422, 423-4business hours 411

Ccar travel 424

language 435cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Hpo Win Daung Complex 178

Kaw Ka Thawng Cave 125

Kawgun Cave 125Kha-Yon Caves 119Mahapasana 55Myin Ma Hti Cave 218Peik Chin Myaung 281Saddan Cave 124Shark Cave 135Shwe Ba Taung 178Shwe Oo Min Natural

Cave Pagoda 215U Min Thonze Caves 268Western Rocky 137Yathaypyan Cave 125

442

IND

EX C - I

cell phones 14, 413cemeteries

British War Cemetery 290

Lin Zin Kone Cemetery 263

Rangoon War Cemetery 55

Taukkyan War Cemetery 55-6

central Myanmar 31, 141-79, 142

accommodation 141climate 141food 141highlights 142

Chauk Maung Na Ma 100Chaung Tha Beach 99-102children, travel with 67,

415-16Chin people 353Chin State 326-34Chin villages 327, 24chinlone 391Christianity 365churches & cathedrals

Armenian Apostolic Church of St John the Baptist 45

Falam Baptist Church 332

First Baptist Church 112Holy Trinity Cathedral 43St George Anglican

Church 211St Joseph’s Cathedral

211St Mary’s Cathedral 43St Peter’s Cathedral 96

cinema 62, 336, 395climate 14, 19-20, see

also individual regionsconstitution 349, 373consulates 408-9cooking courses

Bagan 157Thanlyin 88

coursescooking 88, 157meditation 59, 246, 410

crafts 390-1credit cards 410crocodiles 55cruising, see boat tripsculture 336-7currency 14

customs regulations 407-8cycling 419-21

Bhamo 298language 435Mandalay 247Ngapali Beach 310Yangon 58

Ddance 392dangers, see safetyDaung Kyun

(Dome Island) 135Dawei 127-31, 128death railway 117, 118dengue fever 428diarrhoea 428disabilities, travellers

with 416diving

Myeik Archipelago 137Dome Island 135Dor Sor Bee 232drinks 17, 381-4, 433driving, see car travel

Eeastern Myanmar 31,

196-233, 198-9accommodation 196climate 196food 196highlights 198-9

economy 373-5Eisan 232electricity 408elephants 397embassies 408-9emergencies

language 433telephone numbers 15

endangered species 399environment 396-402environmental hazards

428-30environmental issues 400-2ethnic groups 18, 352-8

Bamar 352-3Chin 353Intha 353-4Kachin 354Kayah 354Kayan 354-5Kayin (Karen) 355Moken 355-6Mon 356Naga 356Rakhine 356-7

Rohingya 357Shan 357-8Wa 358

etiquette 29, 382, 409events, see festivals &

eventse-visas 16exchange rates 15Eyles Island 135

FFalam 332-3ferries 421-2festivals & events 19-20

Bagan 194nat pwe 363Thingyan (Water Festival)

19, 129, 362films 62, 336, 395food 17, 379-87

cooking courses 88, 157

etiquette 382glossary 384-7language 432-3noodles 380safety 329street food 70, 251teahouses 76, 383, 384vegetarians & vegans

384fortresses

Moat & Fortress Walls 239

Sinkyone Fortress 264

Ggardens, see parks &

gardensGaungse Kyun (Shampoo

Island) 112gay travellers 409gems 290, 376geography 396GLBT travellers 409golf

Lashio 288Mandalay 245Nyaung U 160Putao 304Pyin Oo Lwin 276Yangon 56-7

government 372-8Great Swinton Island 136guesthouses 25guides 28Gwa 314Gyeik Taw 309

HHakha 333-4hamsa 89handicrafts 256Hanlin 302Hantharwady Village 264health 427-30

insurance 427traditional medicine 430vaccination 427

hepatitis 428High Rock 136hiking

Hsipaw 285Inle Lake 209, 217Kalaw 217, 218-19, 221Kayin State 124Kyaukme 281Mindat 328Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden

Rock) 107-8Mt Victoria (Nat Ma

Taung) 326-7Ngapali Beach 310Nyaungshwe 201Pindaya 215-16Putao 304-5

Hindu templesNathlaung Kyaung 185-6Sri Ganesh Temple 240-1Sri Kali 44Sri Varada Raja Perumal

Temple 44history 338-51

2015 election 351colonial Burma 340-3post-1990 Myanmar

346-51post-colonial Burma

343-6pre-colonial Burma

338-40hitching 424-5HIV 428Ho Lang 226holidays 412horse-drawn carriages 277hotels 26Hpa-an 121-4, 122Hsipaw 12, 282-7, 284, 12Htay Ko 232Htonbo 151human rights 375-7

Iimmigration 418In Phaw Khone 207Indawgyi Lake 296-7

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

443IN

DEX I - M

Independence Day 19influenza 428Inle Lake 9, 206-11, 208, 9Inle Lake region 197-223insurance 409, 427internet access 409-10internet resources 15Intha people 353-4Inthein 206Inwa (Ava) 263-6, 265Irrawaddy dolphins 301Irrawaddy River, see

Ayeyarwady RiverIslam 365itineraries 21-2, 21-2

KKachin people 354Kadan Island 132Kakku 213Kalaw 13, 217-22, 218, 13Kalaymyo (Kalay) 329-30Kan Thar Ya Beach 313-14Kanmaw Kyun (Kisseraing

Island) 135Karen people 355Katha 300-1Kawthoung 138-40Kayah people 354Kayah State 229-33kayaking

Indawgyi Lake 297Kayan people 354-5Kayin (Karen) people 355Kayin State 121-6Keinari Keinara 232Kennedy Peak 330keyholders 191Khaung Daing 210Kho Yinn Khwa Kyun

(Macleod Island) 137kingdoms 339kings 340Kisseraing Island 135Kyaikkami 117-18Kyaing Ywar 119Kyaingtong 223, 224Kyaukme 281-2Kyaukmyaung 301-2Kyaukse 260Kyauktan 87-8Kyun Philar (Great Swinton

Island) 136

LLahu Shi 226lakes

Indawgyi Lake 296-7

Inle Lake 206-11Inya Lake 55Kandawgyi

(Mawlamyine) 116-17Kandawgyi Lake

(Taungoo) 144Kandawgyi Lake

(Yangon) 51-2Lake Meiktila 150Nyaung Toung 225Rih Lake 331

Lamaing 218Lampi Kyun (Sullivan’s

Island) 135landscapes 17-18language 14, 431-7Lashio 288-9legal measures 410legends 108, 241lesbian travellers 409LGBT travellers 409literature 29, 394-5Loikaw 229-33, 231Lontha 309Lovers’ Island 102Lwemun 297

MMacleod Island 137magazines 409Magwe 155-8Maing Thauk 207malaria 428Mandalay 32, 234-60, 235,

238, 242-3, 247accommodation 234,

246-50activities 245climate 234courses 246drinking & nightlife 253-4entertainment 254-6festivals & events 246food 234, 250-3highlights 235history 236information 256-7orientation 237shopping 256sights 236-45tours 246travel to/from 257-9travel within 259-60

Mandalay Hill 236maps 410marionettes 392markets 17

Bogyoke Aung San Market 54, 2

Central Market (Kyaingtong) 225

Cinema Hall Market 289Coconut & Banana

Wholesale Market 54five-day market 203Flower Market 240Gold Market 120Hsipaw 284-5Jade Market 240Kalaw 218Mingala Market 201Myitkyina 291Paik Swae 289Putao 304Pyay 152Sake Nyein Zei 133San Pya Fish Market 54Si Pin Tharyar Zei 129Sittwe 314, 315Theingyi Zei 54Ye 120

martial arts 391massages

Nyaungshwe 201Yangon 58

mausoleums 45, 54Mawdin Point 99Mawlamyine 11, 109-15,

110, 113, 11Maymyo 273-80, 274measures 409meditation courses 410

Mandalay 246Yangon 59

Mergui Archipelago see Myeik Archipelago

Meiktila 149-51Meinmahla Kyun Wildlife

Sanctuary 95Mindat 327-9Mingun 269-70, 269mobile phones 14, 413Moeyungyi Wetlands 92Mogok 289-91Moken people 355-6Mon people 356Mon State 107-21money 14, 29, 410-11Mong La 227-8Mong Puen 228Monywa 176-8, 177mosques

Jama Mosque 315Surti Sunni Jamah

Mosque 45motorcycle travel 246, 424Moustache Brothers 255Mrauk U 12, 318-25, 321, 12

Mt Hpan Pu 124Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock)

107-9, 60Mt Popa 172-3Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung)

326-7Mt Ya-The 108Mt Zwegabin 125museums & galleries 80

Archaeological Museum (Bagan) 164

Archaeological Museum (Inwa) 264

Bagaya Kyaung 262Bogyoke Aung San

Museum 53Buddha Museum 268Cultural Museum 201Death Railway Museum

117Drug Elimination

Museum 53-4Kachin State Cultural

Museum 291, 294Maka Kuthala

Kyaungdawgyi 315Mon Cultural Museum 111Museum in Commemo-

ration of Opium-Free in Special Region 4 228

National Landmarks Garden 275

National Museum (Nay Pyi Taw) 147

National Museum (Yangon) 39

Pakhangyi Archaeologi-cal Museum 175

Palace Museum 323Rakhine State Cultural

Museum 315Sanda Muhni Phara Gri

Kyaung Taik 323Shan State Cultural

Museum & Library 212Sri Ksetra Museum 154Summit Art 52Thanakha Gallery 158

music 392-4Myauk Taw Win Kyun

(North Twin Island) 136Myawaddy 126Myeik 131-5, 132Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago

11, 135-8, 11Myin Dike 218Myin Ka 218Myinkaba 167Myitkyina 291-6Myit-Son 294

444

IND

EX N - T

NNaga people 356Nam Yi 228Nampan 207nat 172, 362-4Nat Mataung 326-7nat pwe 363National League for

Democracy (NLD) 346-7, 350-1, 372

national parks 399, see also parks & gardens

Nationwide Ceasefire Agreement (NCA) 351

Nay Pyi Taw 146-9, 148New Bagan (Bagan

Myothit) 167-72, 193, 169

newspapers 409Nga Ka Pwe Taung 155Ngapali Beach 309-13, 310Ngwe Saung Beach 100,

102-4North Twin Island 136northern Myanmar 32,

271-306, 272accommodation 271climate 271food 271highlights 272

numerology 364-5Nyaung U 158-64, 195, 159Nyaung Wee Kyun 136Nyaungshwe 197-206,

200-1

OOgre Island 117Old Bagan 164-7, 183-7, 166opening hours 411

Ppacking list 23Pah Pae 232painting 389-90Pakokku 175-6palaces

Bagan Golden Palace 164-5

Kanbawzathadi Palace 92

Mandalay Palace 237-9Shan Palace 283Shwebon Yadana 302

Paleik 270palm sugar 173Pan Mraung 327Pane Ne Pin 218parasols 98parks & gardens

Cape Bayint Naung 139Floating Gardens 207Mahabandoola

Garden 40National Kandawgyi

Gardens 275National Landmark

Gardens 146-7National Races Village 55People’s Park 51Water Fountain Garden

147passports 418Pataing Hnyin 232Pataw Padet Kyun 132Pathein 94-9, 96Patingone 218paya pwe 20permits 23, 25Phaya Taung 207photography 411-12Pin Tau 226Pindaya 215-17planning 23-9

Ayeyarwady River 292-3budgeting 14-15calendar of events 19-20internet resources 15itineraries 21-2, 21-2Myanmar basics 14-15Myanmar’s regions

30-2repeat visitors 16responsible travel

404-6travel seasons 14, 19-20

plants 398-9politics 336-7, 372-3population 337, 374postal services 412private guides 28public holidays 412Putao 304-6Pyay 151-4, 152Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymo)

273-80, 274

Rrabies 428radio 409rafting 305Rakhine people 356-7Rakhine State 309-26

Rangkhu 232religion 337, 359-65responsible travel 404-6restricted areas 25revolutionary Monks 343Rih Lake 13, 331, 13Rihkhawdar 331-2Rocky 1 135Rohingya people 357ruins

Chinthe Ruins 270Hanlin 302Pakhanngeh Kyaung 175Yedanasimi Paya 264

Ssafety 412-13

environmental hazards 428-30

Saffron Revolution 348Sagaing 11, 266-9, 10sailing 58, see also boat

travelSalay 173-5Samkar 207sculpture 389-90Shampoo Island 112Shan people 357-8shopping 17, see also

markets, individual locations

language 433-4Shwebo 302-4, 303Shwedaung 154Shwegu 299-300Siang Sawn 330Sittwe (Aykab) 314-18,

316smoking 409snorkelling

Chaung Tha Beach 99-100

Ngwe Saung Beach 102social enterprise

restaurants & cafes 73South Twin Island 136southeastern Myanmar 31,

105-40, 106accommodation 105climate 105food 105highlights 106

southwestern Myanmar 30, 86-104, 87

accommodation 86climate 86food 86highlights 87

souvenirs 191, 61spas

Nay Pyi Taw 147Yangon 58

sport 391Stewart Island 137Sri Ksetra 154-5street food 70, 251Sullivan’s Island 135superstitions 364-5swimming

Mandalay 245Yangon 56, 58

synagoguesMusmeah Yeshua

Synagogue 40

TTa Moke Shwe Gu Gyi 261Tachileik 229Tai Arkong 207Tan Kyi Paya 187Tanintharyi Region 127-40Taoist temples

Kheng Hock Keong 43Tar Yaw 218tattooed faces 327Taungbyone Nat Pwe 20Taunggok 313Taunggyi 211-15Taungoo (Toungoo) 143-6Taung Taw Win Kyun

(South Twin Island) 136Tawtamagyi 232Tazaungdaing 20teahouses 76, 383, 384telephone services 15,

413-14temples 17, 60-1, see also

Buddhist temples, Hindu temples and Taoist temples

Thahtay Kyun 137Than Daung Gyi 145thanakha 158, 303Thanbyuzayat 117Thandwe 312Thanlyin 87-8That Jom Loi 226Thaung Thut 207Thayekhittaya (Sri Ksetra)

154-5Thazi 223Thingyan (Water Festival)

19, 362theatre 392Tiddim 330-1tigers 401Tilawkaguru 267-8 10

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

445IN

DEX T - Z

time 14, 414language 434

tipping 411toilets 414Toungoo 143-6tourist information 414tours 28traditional medicine 430train travel 425-6transport 26-8, 418-26,

420language 434-5

travel agencies 414-15travel restrictions 23, 25,

225, 228, 273, 295travel to/from Myanmar 418travel within Myanmar

418-26, 420trekking, see hikingTV 409Twante 88typhoid 428

UUnion Solidarity &

Development Party (USDP) 372-3

Vvacations 412vaccinations 427

vegetarians & vegans 384visas 14, 16, 23, 416volunteering 416-17

WWa people 358Wabo 318walking, see hikingwalking tours

Mawlamyine 113, 113Yangon 56-7, 58, 56-7

Wan Loi 226Wan Nyek 226Wan Saen 226Wan Sai 226waterfalls

Anisakan Falls 281King Chaung Waterfall

290Mo-Baw Waterfall 108Pwe Kauk Falls 280

Wat Nong Luang 228Water Festival (Thingyan)

19, 362weather 14, 19-20, see also

individual regionsweights 409western Myanmar 32,

307-34, 308accommodation 307climate 307

food 307highlights 308

Wethali 325whitewater rafting

Putao 305wildlife 396-402

crocodiles 55elephants 397plants 398-9tigers 401

wildlife reservesGreen Hill Valley 219

wineriesMyanmar Vineyard 211-12Red Mountain Estate

201, 24women in Myanmar 358-9women travellers 417women’s health 430work 417workshops 285

gold 240silk 263silverware 268stone carvers 245

YYangon 30, 34-85, 35,

38-9, 42-3, 48-9, 52accommodation 34, 62-8

climate 34courses 59drinking & nightlife 75-8entertainment 78festivals & events 59-62food 34, 68-75highlights 35history 36information 82-3itineraries 37orientation 36shopping 78-85sights 36-56tours 58travel to/from 83-4travel within 85walks 56-7, 58, 56-7

Yangon–Bagan Highway 151-6

Yangon Circle Line 59Yangon–Mandalay Hwy

143-51Yankin Hill 242-4Ye 119-21yoga 58Ywama 206Ywathit 218

ZZarganar 394

446

NO

TES

447

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415313th edition – July 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 546 3© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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OUR WRITERSSimon RichmondJournalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s re-searched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey.

David EimerDavid has been a journalist and writer ever since abandoning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a variety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for Lonely Planet since 2006.

Adam KarlinBorn in Washington, DC and raised in the rural Maryland tidewater, Adam has been exploring the world and writing about it since he was 17. He considers it a blessedly interesting way to live one’s life – and also good fun.

Nick RayA Londoner of sorts, Nick harks from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He studied history and politics at Warwick University before hitting the road for a life in travel and has worked on about 50 titles for Lonely Planet since his first foray in 1998. Based in Cambodia, he covers countries in Southeast Asia, including Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam, with the occasional diversion to Africa.

Regis St LouisRegis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’