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408408

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Kim Aeran, Rod Bennett, Martina Bieri, Larry Cannon, DongKwon Choi, Abilio Gomez, Molly Harder, Kim Ha-ye-ram, Kenneth Holmes, Maria Kamsäter, David Kerkhoff, Dan Krech-mer, Maureen Liston, Melanie Luangsay, Marcos Mendonca, Serhat Narsap, Triin Saag, Nico Scherer, Susanne Stigsson, Hal Swindall, Charlotte Toolan, Jennifer Ward, Wim West-ervoorde, Julie Woods

AUTHOR THANKS Simon RichmondMany thanks to my fellow authors, as well as Maureen O’Crowley and Kim Daegeun at Seoul Tourism, Seunghyo Lee, Daniel Durrance, Charles Usher, Alistair Gale, Joshua Hall, Joshua Davies, Joshua Park, David and Jade Kilburn, Robert Koehler, Monica Cha, Becca Baldwin, Daniel Lenaghan and Julia Mellor.

Megan EavesMany thanks are due to the outstanding authors on this project who let me into their chapters and were flexible in working with me to make the winter activities great. Thanks to

David Carroll and Nóirín Hegarty for letting me go skiing for a living. And massive gratitude to my husband, Bill, who unfailingly supports me when the need for a solo adventure strikes.

Trent HoldenThanks first up to Megan Eaves for giving me the opportunity to work on Korea – a wonder-ful gig – as well as to my co-authors, especially Simon for all the help and tips along the way. A shout out to all the good folk I met on the road and shared a beer with. But as always my biggest thanks goes to my beautiful girlfriend Kate, and my family and friends who I miss back home in Melbourne.

Rebecca MilnerA huge thank you to my husband Chikara, as always, for your company and support. To Ashley and Pedro for your invaluable help and friendship. To Hyo Yun Kim, the best TIC lady in the country. And thank you to Seunghyo, Peter, David, Robert, Luis, Su Bae Yang, Cho Seung-ki, Kim Keun Su, Choi, Mori, Rachel, Calen, Jae Hyeon, Ted, Morgan, Jonathan, Moon Yumi, Will, another Ashley, my inspiring co-authors and my ever-patient editor Megan.

Phillip TangThanks to the travellers and locals who shared their experiences, the very helpful ladies at Cheongju tourist information centre, and Megan Eaves for having me on board. Thanks

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

409BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

to Jack Kennerley for Tour Le Jours taste testing, the abandoned theme park and Bone Henge. Big thanks to Daniel Belfield for four seasons on one train, oh they have popcorn, and jjimdak sharing. Cheers to Pukyong National University and Do Be for lending a hand. Muchas gracias to Ernesto A. Alanis Cataño, Vek Lewis, Da Sel Lee and Lisa N’Paisan.

Rob WhyteMany thanks to many good folk. In Seogwipo, Mrs Lee at the tourism office and Mr Kim at the ferry terminal went way out of their way to help me understand schedules and routes. Mrs Kim inside the Tongyeong passenger ferry terminal for her patience. Ian for his

insights. And, my understanding friends in Busan, Tae-ho, Kim, Levi and Richard. Thanks.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Cover photograph: Young woman in tradition-al attire, Seoul; Jim Zuckerman/Alamy

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘UpdatedWorld Map of the Köppen-Geiger ClimateClassification’, Hydrology and Earth SystemSciences, 11, 1633–44.

THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Korea guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond, Megan Eaves, Trent Holden, Rebecca Milner, Phillip Tang and Rob Whyte. The previous two editions were also written by Simon, with Shawn Low, Timothy N Hornyak, Yu-Mei Balasingamchow and César G Soriano. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Megan EavesProduct Editor Sarah BillingtonAssisting Editors Andrew Bain, Bridget Blair, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Susan Paterson, Erin Richards, Adela Shin, Jeanette WallSenior Cartographer Corey HutchisonCartographer Alison Lyall

Book Designer Michael BuickCover Researcher Campbell McKenzieThanks to David Carroll, Simon Cockerell, Jo Cooke, Nóirín Hegarty, Andi Jones, Katherine Marsh, Claire Mur-phy, Catherine Naghten, Karyn Noble, Monique Perrin, Martine Power, Samantha Russell-Tulip, Dianne Schallmeiner, Jaeyoon Shin, Ellie Simpson, Vicky Smith, Angela Tinson, Lauren Wellicome

410 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 18,

388-90, see also individual locations

costs 389internet resources 390language 402

activities 23-4, 29-33, 128, see also individual activities

air travellanguage 406North Korea 337-8to/from Korea 397within Korea 398

alcohol 371-2, see also beer, rice wine, wine

amusement parksAquaworld 303Caribbean Bay 107Everland 107Jeju Glass Castle 261Legoland 124Lotte World 54Munsu Waterpark

(North Korea) 315Andong 176-8, 177Andong Folk Village 176Andong Mask Dance

Festival 176, 178animals 382-3, see also

individual speciesAnyang Art Park 104aquariums 54Arario Museum

in SPACE 43-4architecture 20, 380-1, see

also historic buildingsbooks 380contemporary and

postwar 381Gangnam 62hanoks 381, 2

palaces 43, 45, 380-1Phoenix Island 245Seoul City Hall 45temples & palaces 43,

45, 380-1area codes

North Korea 336-7 South Korea 394

art galleries, see galleries & museums

arts North Korea 333-4South Korea 377-80

ATMs 393

BBaengnyeongdo 115-6barbecue 367-8bargaining 19baseball 365basketball 365bath houses

Greenvill 149Life Spa 149Tongyeong Sea Land 201Yulpo Haesu

Nokchatang 222bathrooms

North Korea 337 South Korea 394

beachesBamseom Beach 290Daecheon Beach 289Geomeolneomeo

Beach 290Gimnyeong Beach 241Gugyedeung 223-4Gwangan 187Gyeongpo Beach 137Haeundae 187Hakdong Mongdol

Beach 198Iho Tewoo Beach 234Ilchul-bong Beach 245Jungmun Beach 255Kkotji Beach 291

Myeongsasim-ni 223Samcheok 145Sangju 204Songdowon 322Woljeong Beach 243

bears 206, 382, 384beer 77bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 383birdwatching 33Biyangdo 262blogs 342boat tours 173, 199boat travel 397, 398Bongeun-sa 54books

architecture 380culture 366food 370history 340, 351, 352,

354nature 385, 386North Korea 342

Boryeong 289-90Boryeong Mud

Festival 24, 289Boseong 221-2Buddhism 363budget

accommodation 389food 392North Korea 307South Korea 17

Bukaksan 52Bukchon Hanok Village 43bungee jumping 128bus travel 399, 400

language 406Busan 35, 182-97, 184-5,

188, 191, 192, 196accommodation 189-90climate 182food 182, 190-2highlights 183history 183-4, 185travel seasons 182

Busan International Film Festival 24, 189

bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 17, 393Buyeo 286-9, 288Byeolsingut Talnori 178Byeonsan-bando

National Park 273-4, 274

Ccable cars

Geumgang Park 186Hallyeosudo 200N Seoul Tower &

Namsan 44-5Palgong-san Skyline

155-6camping 388canoeing 33car travel 399-400

language 406cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Gosu Donggul 303Hwanseongul 144Manjang-gul 242Ryongmun Big Cave

(North Korea) 322cell phones

North Korea 336South Korea 16, 393-4

Changdeokgung 43Changgyeonggung 48changing money 393Cheomseongdae 159Cheong-gye-cheon 10, 43,

11, 66Cheongju 294, 296-7Chiaksan National Park

145-6, 145Chilbosan 325-6children, travel with

North Korea 335 South Korea 84, 390

Chongjin 326

411IN

DEX C

-GChristianity 363-4Chuncheon 121-4, 123Chungcheongbuk-do 36,

293-305, 294accommodation 293climate 293food 293highlights 294travel seasons 293

Chungcheongnam-do 36, 276-92, 277

accommodation 276climate 276food 276highlights 277history 277travel seasons 276

Chungju 299-305churches & cathedrals

Jeondong Catholic Church 265

Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral 45

cinema 340, 379Busan International

Film Festival 189Jeonju International

Film Festival 267Pyongyang Film Festival

(North Korea) 318Citizens Hall 45climate 23-4, see also

individual locationsclothing 18, 366COEX Aquarium 54comfort women 354conflict 341-2Confucianism 363consulates, see embassiescredit cards 393culture

books 366etiquette 19North Korea 327, 331-5South Korea 18, 340-2,

366currency 16customs regulations

North Korea 335South Korea 390-1

cycling 30, 398Gyeongju 168Jeju-do 233, 241, 250,

254language 406Seoul 57Songdo International

City 114Uiam-ho 121

DDadohae Haesang

National Park 229-30Daegu 148-58, 150-1, 153Daein-sijang 214Daejeon 277-81, 278Damyang 215-6dangers, see safetyDanyang 302-4, 303Dawon 379Demilitarized Zone

Cheorwan 129Gyeonggi-do 95, 98, 385 North Korea 320-1

Deokjeokdo 115Deoksugung 45disabilities, travellers with

North Korea 337South Korea 395

diving 33, 245DMZ, see Demilitarized ZoneDodong-ri 172, 174Doegyusan National

Park 270, 271dogs 382-3Dokdo 152Dolharubang 233Dongdaemun Design Plaza

& Park 51-2, 67Donggureung 104Dongnakdang 168drinking, see individual

locationsdrinks 370-2, see also

individual drinkslanguage 403-4

driving, see car traveldriving licences 399DVDs 394

Eeconomy 307electricity 391embassies


emergencies 391language 405

environment climate change 397North Korea 334South Korea 382-6sustainable travel 398

etiquetteNorth Korea 313South Korea 19, 373

eunuchs 349-50events, see festivals &

events

Ewha Womans University 47

exchange rates North Korea 307South Korea 17

Ffashion 18ferries, see boat travelfestivals & events 23-4

Andong Mask Dance Festival 176, 178

Baekje Cultural Festival 284

Boryeong Mud Festival 289

Busan International Film Festival 189

Busan International Fireworks Festival 189

Chuncheon International Mime Festival 121

Dano Festival 135Festival Bo:m 60Gwangju Kimchi

Festival 212Jeonju International

Film Festival 267Jeonju Sori Festival 267Jikji Festival 295Jindo Miracle

Sea Road Festival 229Jongmyo Daeje 61-2Korea International

Art Fair 61Lotus Lantern

Festival 61Sajik Daeje 61Seoul Drum Festival 61Seoul Fringe Festival 61Seoul International

Cartoon & Animation Festival 61

Seoul International Fireworks Festival 61

Taebaeksan Snow Festival 144

World Martial Arts Festival 299

Yeongdeungpo Yeouido Spring Flower Festival 60

film, see cinemafolk villages, 12, 102, 168,

176, 179, 217, 247-9, 12, 236

food 22, 367-76, see also individual locations

budgeting 392ginseng 287

glossary 373-6jeongsik 369kimchi 212, 368language 403-4Namdo 213seafood 127, 190, 368-9street food 371vegan & vegetarian food

372-3foreign exchange 307, 393fortresses

Busosan-seong 286Geumjeong 186-7Gongsan-seong 283Hwaseong 101Jinju 202Moyang 272-3Naganeup-seong Folk

Village 217Namhansanseong 104 Sangdang San-seong

295Seongsan-ri 244

GGajisan Provincial

Park 197-8galleries & museums

Andong Folklore Museum 176

Arario Museum in SPACE 43-4, 233

Artside 89Artsonje Center 88Busan Modern History

Museum 188Busan Museum

of Art 188Buyeo National

Museum 286Chamsori Gramophone

& Edison Museum 135, 136

Daegu National Museum 149

Daegu Yangnyeongsi Museum of Oriental Medicine 149

DMZ Museum 127-8Early Printing Museum

295Expo 2012 Yeosu

Korea Memorial Hall 219

Folklore & Natural History Museum 234

Gallery Hyundai 88Ganghwa History

Museum 117Gangjin Celadon

Museum 222

412

IND

EX G- H

galleries & museums continued

Gongju National Museum 283

Gunsan Modern History Museum 274

Gwangju Folk Museum 210-1

Gwangju Museum of Art 210

Gwangju National Museum 209-10

Gyeongju National Museum 159

Haegang Ceramics Museum 105

Haenyeo Museum 243Hakgojae 88Hamel Memorial 257Historic Park of Geoje

POW Camp 198Hoam Art Museum 107House of Sharing 354Hwabong Gallery 89Incheon Metropolitan

City Museum 109Incheon Open Port

Museum 107International Friendship

Exhibition (North Korea) 321-2

Jean Art Gallery 89Jeju April 3 Peace

Park 254Jeju Loveland 238Jeju Museum of Art 234Jeju Museum of

Contemporary Art 261Jeju Peace Museum 254Jeoldusan Martyrs’

Shrine 47-8Jeonju Hanji

Museum 265-7Kim Young Gap Gallery

Dumoak 254Korea Tea Museum 222Korea Furniture

Museum 48Korean Revolution

Museum (North Korea) 314

Kukje 88Lee Jung-Seop Art

Gallery & Park 249Leeum Samsung

Museum of Art 51Lock Museum 48MMCA Seoul 44

Modern Architecture Museum 108

Mokpo Modern History Museum 225

Mr Toilet House 102Museum of Sex

& Health 238Nam June Paik Art

Center 102National Folk Museum

of Korea 44National Maritime

Museum 225National Museum of

Korea 50-1National Museum of

Korean Contemporary History 44

O’Sulloc Tea Museum 261

Revolutionary Museum (North Korea) 326

Sansawon Brewery & Museum 105

Seodaemun Prison History Hall 50

Seoul City Wall Museum 52

Seoul Museum of Art 45

Seoul Museum of History 44

Soju Museum 176Songgyungwan

Neo-Confucian College (North Korea) 320

Sun Art Center 89Suwon Hwaseong

Museum 102Teddy Bear

Museum 255Three Revolutions

Exhibition (North Korea) 314

Traditional Wine Museum 265

Uijae Museum of Korean Art 211

Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum (North Korea) 313

War Memorial of Korea 51

War & Women’s Human Rights Museum 48

Wooyong Museum of Contemporary Art 162

World Eros Museum 238Gamcheon Culture

Village 187Ganghwado 116-8

Gangjin 222Gangneung 134-9, 134Gangwon-do 34, 119-46,

120accommodation 119climate 119food 119highlights 120history 120-1travel seasons 119

Gapado 260gardens, see parks &

gardens, provincial parks

Gatbawi Culture District 225

gate pole messages 261gay travellers 75, 391-2Geojedo 198-200Geumjeong-san 186, 191Gilsang-sa 48ginseng 287Gochang 272-3Gochang dolmen site 273Gohan 141-2golf 33, 260Gongju 283-5, 284gunhap 366Gunsan 274Gurye 216-7Gwanghwamun 43-4Gwangju 209-15, 210Gwangju Biennale 24, 212Gyeongbokgung 43, 66-7Gyeonggi-do 94-106, 96-7

climate 94highlights 96-7sights 94travel seasons 94

Gyeongju 158-68, 160-1Gyeongsangbuk-do 35,

147-81, 148accommodation 147climate 147food 147highlights 148history 148travel seasons 147

Gyeongsangnam-do 35, 182-207, 183

accommodation 182climate 182food 182highlights 183history 183-4travel seasons 182

Gyeryongsan National Park 282-3, 282

HHado-ri 243-4Haein-sa 156Haenam 222-3Haeundae 187, 188Hahoe Folk

Village 179-80, 236Hallasan National

Park 257-60, 258 Hallim 262Hamhung 322Hampyeong Seawater

Sauna 230hangeul 347hanoks 43, 45, 381health 392Heuksando 230Heyri 98-101, 236hiking 29-30

Bukhansan National Park 110

Chiaksan National Park 145, 145

Deogyusan National Park 270-2, 271

Gajisan 197Haebyeongil 291Hallasan National Park

257-60, 258Jeju Olle Trail 259Jirisan 206Mani-san 117Nammang-san 200Namsan 166Odaesan

National Park 142Saryeoni Forest 234Seoraksan National

Park 129, 132, 130-1Ulleungo 174Woraksan National

Park 302, 302historic buildings

Cheongnamdae 297Cheongpung

Cultural Heritage Complex 300

Gangneung Seongyojang 136-7

Goseong Unification Observatory Building 127

Gyeonggijeon 265Gyeongpo-ho &

Gyeongpodae Pavilion 137

Jeongnimsaji 287Jeonju Hyanggyo 265Jinnamgwan 219Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

413IN

DEX H

- NOjukheon 135-6Omok-dae 265

history 341-2, 343-62Dokdo 152Donghak Rebellion 351first Koreans 343Goryeo dynasty 345hangeul 347hanoks 381Japanese Rule 350-4Jikji printing

press 301Joseon dynasty 347-50Korean War 355-6North Korea 309, 327-31postwar recovery 357Seoul 81Three Kingdoms 343-5

hitching 400holidays


Hongdo 229House of Sharing 354Hwaseong 101Hwaseong

Haenggung 101-2

Iice skating 31, 33Icheon 105-6Ihwa Maeul 48immigration


Incheon 107-13, 108Incheon-gwangyeok-si 94,

106-18, 96-7art & culture 94climate 94highlights 96-7sights 94travel seasons 94

insurance 392internet access

North Korea 335-6ISouth Korea 392

internet resources North Korea 307South Korea 390

Inwangsan Guksadang 50islands 22

Baengnyeongdo 115-16Biyangdo 262Deokjeokdo 115Gapado 260Heuksando 230Hongdo 229

Jindo 229Marado 261Namiseom 121, 21Odongdo 219Oedo Botania 198-9Seonyudo 275West Sea islands 115-18

itinerariesNorth Korea 307Seoul 39, 42, 55, 57South Korea 25-8

JJeju-do 35, 231-62, 232,

242accommodation 231climate 231food 231highlights 232history 232travel seasons 231

Jeju Loveland 238Jeju Olle Trail 259Jeju-si 233-41, 235Jeoldusan Martyrs’

Shrine 47-8Jeollabuk-do 36, 263-75,

264climate 263food 263highlights 264hiking 263travel seasons 263

Jeollanam-do 35, 208-30, 209

accommodation 208climate 208food 208highlights 209history 209travel seasons 208

jeongsik 369Jeonju 264-9, 266Jeonju Hanok Maeul 265Jikji 301Jikji-sa 158Jindo 229Jinju 201-3, 202Jirisan National

Park 206-7, 205, 253Jogye-sa 43Joint Security Area (JSA)

95, 98Jongmyo 43Jongmyo Daeje 23Jungmun Resort 254-6Juwangsan National

Park 180-1, 180-1

KKaesong 319-20kayaking 33, 128K-Drama 378Kim Il-sung Square 313kimchi 368Kim Jong-il 329-30Kim Jong-un 330-1King Sejong statue 44Korea House 85Korean Folk Village 102Korean language 402-7Korean War 328-9, 355-6K-Pop 378Kumgangsan 323

LLake Bomun 162, 165language, Korean 16, 19,

402-7Leeum Samsung

Museum of Art 51legal matters

North Korea 336 South Korea 392-3

lesbian travellers 75, 391-2

literature 340, 342, 379-80, see also books

Lotte World 31, 33, 54Lotus Lantern Festival

23, 361lunar new year 23

Mmagazines 394Magok-sa 285-6makgeolli 268Manjang-gul 242-3Marado 261markets

Daegu’s Herbal Medicine Market 149

Daein-sijang 214Gwangjang Market 73Incheon Grand Fishery

Market 107Jagalchi Fish

Market 190Jeongnamjin Saturday

Market 227Jungang Live Fish

Market 200Namdaemun Market 86Noryang Fish Market 73Seomun-sijang 154Yangdong-sijang 214Yasigolmok 154

martial arts 299, see also taekwondo

Mask Dance Festival 24, 178

mausoleums, see tombs & mausoleums

measures 394media

North Korea 332medical services

Busan 194Gyeongsangnam-do 194Seoul 90medical tourism 392

MMCA Seoul 44mobile phones


Mokpo 225-9, 226money

bargaining 19changing money 393North Korea 336tipping 19transport passes 401

moon bears 384Moseulpo 260-1mosques 54motorcycle travel

399-400language 406road rules 400

Muju 270multiculturalism 366mural villages 102museums, see galleries &

museumsmusic 378-9Muuido 112, 113Myohyangsan 321-2Mysterious

Sea Road 229

NN Seoul Tower 44 Naejangsan National

Park 269-70, 269Naganeup-seong

Folk Village 217Namhaedo 204Namhansanseong 104Nampo 323-4Nampo-dong 196Namsan 163-8, 164Namsangol Hanok

Village 45Nanta 80National Folk Museum

of Korea 44

414

IND

EX N-P

National Museum of Korea 50-1

National Museum of Korean Contemporary History 44

national parks 383-4, see also provincial parks

Bukhansan National Park 110

Byeonsan-bando National Park 273-4, 273

Chiaksan National Park 145-6, 145

Dadohae Haesang National Park 229-30

Doegyusan National Park 270, 271

Gyeryongsan National Park 282-3, 282

Haegeumgang 198Hallasan National

Park 257-60, 258Jirisan National

Park 206-7, 205Juwangsan National

Park 180-1, 180Mudeungsan

National Park 211Naejangsan

National Park 269-70Odaesan

National Park 142Seoraksan

National Park 129Sobaeksan National

Park 304-5, 305Songnisan National

Park 298-9, 298Taean-haean National

Marine Park 291-2Woraksan National

Park 302newspapers 394nightlife, see individual

neighbourhoodsNorth Korea 36, 306-38,

308accommodation 306, 335area codes 336-7arts 333-4bathrooms 337budget 307children, travel with 335climate 306culture 313, 327, 331-5customs regulations 335

disabilities, travellers with 337

embassies 335environment 334etiquette 313food 306, 334-5highlights 308, 314history 309, 327-31immigration 337internet access 335-6itineraries 307legal matters 336media 332mobile phones 336money 336passports 337photography & video

336politics 327population 332-3postal services 336public holidays 336religion 333sport 333telephone services 336,

336-7time 337toilets 337tours 307, 338travel seasons 306travel to/from

North Korea 337-8travel within

North Korea 338visas 337women travellers 337

Noryangjin Fish Market 73nuclear power 385

Oobservatories 95, 98, 109,

116, 117, 127, 129, 159Odaesan National

Park 142-3, 140Odongdo 219Oedo Botania 198-9 Oksan Seowon 168-9Olympic Park 52oncheon 279opening hours 17, 393outdoor activities 20,

29-33, 128, see also individual activities

PPaekdusan 324-5pagodas, see temples &

pagodasPaju 99

palacesChangdeokgung 43Changgyeonggung 48Deoksugung 45Goryeogungji Palace

117-18Gyeongbokgung 43Hwaseong

Haenggung 101-2Palgongsan Provincial

Park 155-6, 155Panmunjeom (JSA) 95 Panmunjom

(North Korea) 320-1parks & gardens, see

also national parks, provincial parks

Anapji Pond 160Anyang Art Park 104Cheollipo Arboretum 292Children’s Grand

Park 52Daehan Dawon

Tea Plantation 221-2Ganghwa Dolmen

Park 117Gimnyeong Maze

Park 243Haesindang Park 144-5Hallim Park 262Igidae 187Jayu Park 107Jeju Stone Park 234Juknokwon 215-16Mineral Spring Park 172Moran Hill 314Olympic Park 52Seolbong Park 105Seoul Forest 52Skygarden 47Spirited Garden 261Taejongdae Park 187Unification Park 138-9Yeomiji Botanical

Garden 255Yongdu-san Park 188Yudalsan Park 225

passports North Korea 337South Korea 397

performing arts 378, 379Phoenix Island 245photography


planningbudgeting 17, 389, 392calendar of events 23-4children, travel with

335, 390

costs 392etiquette 19, 373first-time visitors 18-19internet resources 17,

307, 390itineraries 25-8Korea basics 16-17Korea’s regions 34-6outdoor activities 29-33packing 18travel seasons 16, 23-4,

306plants 383Pohang 169-72, 170politics

North Korea 327South Korea 340-2

populationSouth Korea 341North Korea 332-3

postal services North Korea 336South Korea 393

provincial parks 383-4, see also national parks

Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park 180

Daedunsan Provincial Park 270

Duryunsan Provincial Park 222

Gajisan Provincial Park 197-8

Jogyesan Provincial Park 218

Maisan Provincial Park 269

Moaksan Provincial Park 268-9

Naksan Provincial Park 128

Palgongsan Provincial Park 155-6, 156

Seonunsan Provincial Park 273

Taebaeksan Provincial Park 144

public holidays North Korea 336South Korea 393

Pyeongchang 139-41Pyongyang Film Studios

(North Korea) 314Pyongyang 308-19, 310-1

accommodation 315-16 activities 315drinking & nightlife 317entertainment 318food 316-17 highlights 310-11


415IN

DEX P

- Uhistory 309shopping 318-19sights 309, 312-15

Rradio 394rafting 33, 128Rajin-Sonbong 326religion

Confucianism 363Buddhism 363Christianity 363-4North Korea 333Shamanism 364Tripitaka Koreana 157

rice wine 105, 268rock climbing 29-30, 110

Ssafety 391

hitching 400Sagye-ri 256-7saju 366Samak-san 125Samcheok 143-5Samjinae 216Sangumburi 260Sansawon Brewery &

Museum 105Sapsido 290-1, 290Sasaja Samcheung 217Sehwa-ri 243-4Sejong 280Seodaemun Prison

History Hall 50Seogwipo 249-54, 248Seokguram 163Seomyeon 192Seongeup Folk Village

247-9Seongsan Ilchul-bong

245, 246 Seongsan-ri 244-7Seonjeongneung 54Seoraksan National

Park 129-33, 130-1, 237

Seonyudo 275Seoul 34, 38-92, 40-1, 46,

49, 50, 53, 58-9, 66, 72, 79

accommodation 38, 61-5, 67-8

activities 56architecture 62children 84climate 38courses 56, 60

cycling tours 57, 57drinking & nightlife

74-8, 80entertainment 80-5festivals & events 60-1food 38, 68-74highlights 40-1shopping 85-9sights 39, 43-5, 47-8,

50-2, 54tourist information 90-2tours 60travel seasons 38travel to/from 91-2travel within 92-3walking tours 42, 55,

42, 55Seoul Central Mosque 54Seoul City Hall 45Seoul City Wall

Museum 52Seoul Museum of Art 45Seoul Museum of

History 44Shamanism 364shopping 20shrines

Gatbawi 155Inwangsan

Guksadang 50Jebiwon 176Jeoldusan Martyrs’

Shrine 47-8Jongmyo 43

Sinchon 324

Sinyang-ri 244-7skiing 30-1, 106

Alpensia Ski Resort 139Bears Town

Ski Resort 106Elysian 106High1 Ski Resort 141Jisan Resort 106Konjiam Ski Resort 106Masik-Ryong Ski Resort

(North Korea) 323Muju Deogyusan

Resort 272Yangji Pine Resort 106Yongpyong Ski

Resort 140snowboarding 30-1, 106soccer 365Sokcho 125-30, 125 Songdo International

City 114Songseon-ri 169Songwol-dong

Fairy Tale Village 108

spas 188sports 365

baseball 194, 214football 194horse racing 239North Korea 333South Korea 365

street food 371subways, see train travelSuncheon 217-8, 217 Sungnyemun 45surfing 33Suwon 101-4, 100

TTaebaeksan Snow

Festival 23, 144taekwondo 272, 365Tap-sa 269, 252taxes 393taxis 400tea 222telephone services

North Korea 336-7South Korea 16-7, 393-4

temple stays 65temples & pagodas 142

Beopju-sa 299Bogyeong-sa 169-70Bomeo-Sa 185-6Bomun-sa 117Bongeun-sa 54Bori-am 204Bulguk-sa 161Daeheung-sa 222Donghak-sa 282Donghwa-sa 155Gilsang-sa 48Girim-sa 163Golgul-sa 161-2Guin-sa 304Haein-sa 156-8Hwaeom-sa 216-7Hyangir-am 219Jeondeung-sa 117Jikji-sa 158Jogye-sa 43Magok-sa 285-6Pyohon Temple

(North Korea) 322Sanbanggul-sa 257Sasaja Samcheung 217Seokbul-sa 187Seoknam-Sa 198Ssanggye-Sa 206Tap-sa 269, 252Tongdo-Sa 198

Unju-sa 216Woljeong-sa 142Yakcheon-sa 255

theme parks, see amusement parks

Third Infiltration Tunnel 95time

North Korea 337South Korea 16, 394

tipping 19T-Money card 400toilets


tombs & mausoleumsBaekje Royal Tombs

286-7Bullo-dong

Tumuli-gongwon 149Noseo-dong

Tombs 159Samneung 163-4Seonjeongneung 54Tomb of King Kongmin

(North Korea) 320Tumuli-gongwon 159

Tongyeong 200-1tourist information 395tours, see also boat tours,

walking toursbus 399City Tour Busan 189Daegu City Tour 149Jeju City 241North Korea 307, 338

train travel 400-1language 406to North Korea 307, 338

translation services 396travel seasons


travel to/fromNorth Korea 337-8South Korea 397

travel within North Korea 338South Korea 397-401

trekking, see hikingTripitaka Koreana 157Triumphal Arch 313, 251TV 394

UUdo 250Ulleungdo 172-6, 173, 236Unification Park 138-9Unju-sa 216

416

IND

EX V-Y

Vvacations


vegetarian travellers 372-3

video North Korea 336South Korea 393

viewpoints 22, see also observatories

villages 22, see also individual villages

visas North Korea 337South Korea 16, 395-6

visual arts 377-8volunteering 396

Wwalking, see also hiking

Oedolgae 250Yongmeori Coast 257

walking tours 42, 55, 42, 55

Wando 223-4, 224War & Women’s Human

Rights Museum 48War Memorial of Korea 51weather 23-4, see also

individual locationswebsites, see internet

access, internet resources

weights 394wine 371-2Winter Sonata 121women in Korea 362

women travellers 337Wonju 145Wonsan 322-3work 396World Eros Museum 238World Heritage sites 20

YYangdong Folk Village 168Yeongjongdo 112, 113Yeosu 218-21, 220


417N

OTES

418

NO

TES

419N

OTES

420

NO

TES

421N

OTES

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

EMM

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LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

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Entertainment

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Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book


Map Legend

Rebecca MilnerJeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do, Chungcheongnam-do Lucky for Rebecca, Korea is just a short flight from her home in Tokyo. Previous trips had already sold her on the charms of makgeolli and jjimjilbang, so she jumped at the chance to explore the country’s southern reaches for this edition. Highlights included eating live octopus in Mokpo, steaming in the saltwater baths in Hampyeong and having morning tea on the veranda of a 100-year-old home in Jeonju. Rebecca has also

written Lonely Planet’s guides to Tokyo and Japan. Follow her on Twitter @tokyorebecca. Rebecca also wrote the Arts & Architecture chapter.

Phillip TangGangwon-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Chungcheongbuk-do Phillip Tang spent this trip inviting himself to Korean homes, tagging along to local street eats and being out-hiked by Koreans twice his age bolting up mountains. He writes about travel on his two loves, Asia and Latin America, and has contributed to Lonely Planet’s guides to China, Japan, Mexico and Peru, and for other publishers. Find his photos, tweets and articles from this Korea visit through philliptang.co.uk. Phillip also wrote the In

the Korean Kitchen, The Natural Environment and Survival Guide chapters.

Rob Whyte Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do, Jeju-do A Busan resident for more than 15 years, Rob spends several weeks each year backpacking across the country in search of secluded getaways. One memorable discovery on this journey was a hamburger restaurant on Udo, which has an amazing collection of Anne of Green Gables memorabilia including a first edition of the book. That discovery was a reminder that we have everything we need for a magnificent journey. Rob also wrote the

Korean People chapter.

Contributing AuthorNorth Korea The author of our North Korea chapter has chosen to remain anonymous.


Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – February 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 500 5© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Simon Richmond Coordinating author, Seoul UK-born writer and photographer Simon first co- ordinated Lonely Planet’s Korea guide in 2009 when he explored Seoul and its surroundings over several weeks. He liked the place so much that his next visit, to update the 9th edition of Korea and 7th edition of Seoul, saw him spend over two months living in Seoul and travelling down to Jeju-do. For Korea 10, Simon co-ordinated the general coverage of the country and covered central, northern

and western areas of Seoul; he also hiked around the old city walls on a beautiful spring day and had an enjoyable but messy time learning to make magkeolli. Follow him on Twitter, Instagram and at www.simonrichmond.com. Simon also wrote the Plan Your Trip section, as well as the Korea Today and History chapters.

Megan Eaves Lonely Planet’s North Asia Destination Editor, Megan has worked on Lonely Plan-et’s China guide and is a recent convert to the delights of the Korean peninsula. Originally from New Mexico, she is a mountain girl at heart and an avid skier. For this edition, she researched Korea’s winter activities, downing as much kimchi, fried chicken and soju as she could in between stints on the country’s many snowy slopes. You can follow her on Twitter @megoizzy. Megan contributed to

the chapters Gangwon-do, Around Seoul, Chungcheongbuk-do and Jeollabuk-do.

Trent HoldenAround Seoul Having covered the length of the peninsula on other writing as-signments, this is Trent’s first gig working on the Korea book for Lonely Planet. He researched the regions surrounding Seoul, where he was blown away by the area’s diversity and beauty. Trent has worked on over 20 books for Lonely Planet, covering mainly Asia and Africa. You can catch him on twitter @hombreholden.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Read more about Megan at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/meganeaves

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

Sungnyemun C10Tteok Museum G5Unhyeongung F5Waryongmyo F12Yeongnyeongjeon H5Yeongyeongdang H3

GREATER SEOULTransport

Gimpo Airport A3

Neighbourhoods

Bucheon-si A3Dongdaemun-gu F2Dongjak-gu D4Eunpyeong-gu D1Gangbuk-gu F1Gangnam-gu F4Gangseo-gu A2Goyang-si A1Guro-gu A4Gwanak-gu D5

Gwangjin-gu G2Hongdae C3Ihwa-dong F2Jongno-gu E2Jungnang-gu H2Mapo-gu C2Nowon-gu G1Seocho-gu F5Seodaemun-gu D2Seongbuk-gu F2Seongdong-gu G3Sinchon D3

Songpa-gu H5Yangcheon-gu A4Yeongdeungpo-gu C3Yeouido D4Yongsan-gu E3

Sights

National Museum of Korea E4

Olympic Park H4War Memorial of

Korea E3

CENTRAL SEOULStreets

1st Namsan Tunnel H13

2nd Namsan Tunnel J13

3rd Namsan Tunnel F13

BBukchon-ro F3CChangdeokgung-

gil G4Changgyeonggung-

ro J3-5-8Changuimun-ro C1Cheongwadae-ro D3Chungmu-ro H9DDaehak-ro K3-6Daemyeong-gil J3Dasan-ro L13-M11Deoksugung-gil B8Dongho-ro K7-10Dongsomun-ro

K2-M1Dongsung-gil K4Donhwamun-ro G6Donhwamun-ro

11-gil G6EEulji-ro F8-K8GGamgodang-gil E4Gyedong-gil F4HHuam-ro D13Hyehwa-ro J2Hyoja-ro C4IInsa-dong 5-gil F6Insa-dong 7-gil F6Insa-dong 10-gil F6Insa-dong-gil F6Inwansan-ro A2-A4

JJahamun-ro C4Jangchungdan-ro

J13-L10Jilpae-gil C10Jong-ro F7Jong-ro 1-gil D6Jong-ro 9-gil F7Jong-ro 31-gil J6Jong-ro 41-gil L6Jungmuro F10KKimsangok-ro J6MMajang-ro M8Mareunnae-ro J9Myeong-dong-gil

E9NNamdaemun B13Namdaemun-ro

E8-9Northern Namsan

Circuit F11PPirundae-ro B3-4SSaemunan-ro C7Sajik-ro B5Sajik-ro 8-gil C6Sambong-ro E6Samcheong-ro

E3-5Samil-daero F5-7-9Samil-daero

30-gil G6Samil-daero

32-gil G5Samseongyo-ro L2Samseongyo-ro

16-gil M2Sejong-daero

C11-D6-D8Seongbuk-ro K1Seosomun-ro C9Seosulla-gil G5Sogong-ro E9Sopa-ro E11-F11

Southern Namsan Circuit F13

Sowol-ro D12Supyo-ro G7-9TToegye-ro C11-J9Tongil-ro B9UUjeongguk-ro E6YYulgok-ro G5-L6Yunposun-gil E4

Plazas

Gwanghwamun Sq D6

Time Capsule Sq H11

Transport

Railway Stations

Seoul B11

Subway Stations

Anguk F5Beotigogae K14Cheonggu M10Chungjeongno A10Chungmuro H10City Hall D9Dongdaemun L7Dongdaemun

History & Culture Park L8-9

Dongguk University K10

Euljiro 1-ga E8Euljiro 3-ga H8Euljiro 4-ga J8Gwanghwamun D6Gyeongbokgung C5Hangsung

University L1Hoehyeon D10Hyehwa K3Jonggak E7Jongno 3-ga G6-7Jongno 5-ga K7Myeongdong F10Namyeong C15

Seodaemun A8Seoul Station C11Sookmyung

Women’s University C14

Yaksu M12

Neighbourhoods

Anguk-dong F5Changsin-dong M5Chungsin-dong L5Dangju-dong C5Dongdaemun-gu M7Gahoe-dong E3Garwol-dong C15Gwanghui-dong L9Gye-dong F3Gyeo-dong F4Hyehwa-dong K1Ihwa-dong L5Ikseon-dong G6Inhyung-dong H9Jangchung-dong L11Jongno-gu E5Jung-gu H8Myeongryun 2-ga J2Nagwon-dong F6Namchang-dong D11Namsan-dong F10Pirun-dong B5Sajik-dong A5Samseong-dong M3Seochon B4Seongbuk-gu K2Sogong-dong D9Sogyeok-dong E4Tongui-dong C4Unni-dong G5Yeajang-dong G10Yejang-dong F10Yeongeon-dong J4

Sights

Admiral Yi Sun-Sin’s Statue D7

Agriculture Museum B8

Ahn Jung-geun Memorial Hall E12

Amisan D4Another Way of

Seeing E3Arario Museum in

SPACE G5Arko Art Center K4Artside C4Artsonje Center E4Bank of Korea Money

Museum E9Bongsudae G13Bosingak E7Bukchon Hanok

Village F4Bukchon Traditional

Culture Center F4Central Buddhist

Museum E6Changdeokgung G4Changgyeonggung

H4Cheondogyo

Temple F5Cheong-gye Plaza D7Cheong-gye-cheon D7Cheongwadae D2Cheongwadae

Sarangchae C3Citizens Hall D8City Hall D8Culture Station

Seoul 284 C11Daelim

Contemporary Art Museum C5

Deoksugung C8Dongdaemun

Design Plaza & Park L8

Dongdaemun History

Museum M8Dongdaemun

Stadium Memorial M8

Donggun D4Dong-Lim Knot

Workshop F3Donhwamun G4Gahoe Minhwa

Workshop F3Gallery Hyundai E5Gallery Simon C4Gangyeongjeon D4

Geunjeongjeon D5Gonsindang H6Great Greenhouse H3Gungisi Relics

Exhibition Hall D8Gwanghwamun D5Gwanghwamun

Square D6Gwanghwamun

Square Underground Exhibition D6

Gwangjang Market

J7Gyeongbokgung D4Gyeonghoeru D4Gyeonghuigung B6Gyotaejeon D4Hakgojae E4Hammering Man C7Hamnyeongjeon D8Heunghwamun B7Heunginjimun M7Heungnyemun D5Huwon H3Hwabong Gallery F6

Hyangwonjeong D3Hyehwamun K2Ihwa Maeul L5Injeongjeon G4Jean Art Gallery C4Jeonggwanheon D8Jeongjeon H5Jogye-sa E6Jongmyo H6Jongno Tower E7Junghwajeon C8King Sejong Statue D6

Kukje E4Kyungdong

Presbyterian Church L9

Lock Museum K4MMCA Deoksugung

C8MMCA Seoul E4Mokin Museum F6Myeong-dong

Catholic Cathedral F9

Myeongjeongjeon H4

N Seoul Tower F13Nakseonjae H4Namdaemun

Market E10Namsan Outdoor

Botanical Garden H15

Namsangol Hanok Village H10

National Children’s Museum E3

National Folk

Museum of Korea D3

National Museum of Korean Contemporary History D6

National Palace Museum of Korea D5

Open Air Exhibition E4

PLATEAU C10Ryugaheon C4

Sajikdan B5Sejong Gallery D6SeMA

Gyeonghuigung Museum of Art B7

Seokjojeon; Daehan Empire History Museum C8

Seoul Animation Center F10

Seoul City Wall Museum M6

Seoul Metropolitan

Library D8Seoul Museum of

Art D9Seoul Museum of

History B7Seoul Plaza D8Simsimheon F3Sool Gallery F6Soyoam H3Spring Sculpture D7Stone Pagoda of

Wongak-sa G6Sun Art Center F6

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Routes

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Legend

Seoul

InformationKTO Tourist Information Center (%02-1330); www.visitkorea.or.kr; Cheonggyecheon ro, Jung-gu; h9am-8pm; bLine 1 to Jonggak, Exit 5. The best infor-mation centre; knowledgeable staff, free internet and many brochures and maps.Insa-dong Tourist Information Center (%02-734 0222); Insa-dong 11-gil; h10am-10pm; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6. Two more centres are at the south and north entrances to Insadong-gil.

EmergenciesAmbulance, fire (%119)Police (%112)

Bus, Subway & TaxiBus system (www.bus.go.kr; h5.30am-midnight) Comprehensive and reason-ably priced. Some bus stops have bus route maps in English.International Taxi (%02-1644 2255; www.internationaltaxi.co.kr) Has English-speaking drivers; can be reserved in advance for 20% extra.Subway system (www.smrt.co.kr); h5.30am-midnight. Connects up with destinations beyond the city borders.T-Money card (http://eng.tmoney.co.kr) Bus, subway, taxi and train fares can all be paid using the rechargeable, touch-and-go card.

Jogye-sa E6

2 The headquarters of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism is home to Daeungjeon,

the largest temple building in Seoul. It comes alive during the city’s spectacular Lotus Lantern Festival. (www.jogyesa.kr/user/english; 55-Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6)

Gyeongbokgung D3

1 The grandest of Seoul’s palaces. With its restored Gwanghwamun entrance, changing-

of-guard ceremonies and several museums, it’s a place you should set aside at least half a day to see. (www.royalpalace.go.kr/html/eng; bLine 3 to Gyeongbokgung, Exit 5)

Namdaemun Market E10

3 At this sprawling round-the-clock market you can find pretty much anything – from

food and flowers to spectacles and camera equipment. (www.namdaemunmarket.co.kr; 21 Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Jung-gu; bLine 4 to Hoehyeon, Exit 5)

Deoksugung C8

4 Deoksugung (Palace of Virtuous Longevity) is the only one of the four main palaces that

you can visit in the evening to enjoy a quieter at-mosphere and see the buildings illuminated. (www.deoksugung.go.kr; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 2)

Changdeokgung H4

5 A Unesco World Heritage property and the most beautiful of Seoul’s four main palaces,

Changdeokgung (Palace of Illustrious Virtue) was built in the early 15th century. (http://eng.cdg.go.kr/main/main.htm; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 3)

Gwangjang Market J7

6 One of Seoul’s best markets. During the day it’s known for secondhand clothes and fab-

rics. At night its alleys fill up with vendors selling all manner of street eats. (88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu; bLine 1 toJongno-5ga, Exit 8, or Line 2 or 5 to Euljiro 4-ga, Exit 4)

N Seoul Tower F13

7 One of Seoul’s most iconic features. If the weather’s fine, the tower’s observation deck

offers panoramic views. At sunset you can watch the city morph into a galaxy of twinkling lights. (www.nseoultower.com; Namsan; gshuttle buses 2, 3 & 5)

National Museum of Korea Greater Seoul E4

8 Korea’s National Museum occupies a grand, marble-lined, modernist complex, and con-

tains cultural treasures from prehistoric times to the Joseon dynasty. (www.museum.go.kr; 137 Seobinggo-ro; bLine 1 or 4 to Ichon, Exit 2)

War Memorial of Korea Greater Seoul E3

9 The huge memorial museum documents the history of warfare in Korea, with photos,

maps, artefacts and black-and-white documen-tary films that give a fascinating insight into war. (www.warmemo.co.kr; 29 Itaewon-ro; bLine 4 or 6 to Samgakji, Exit 12)

Olympic Park Greater Seoul H4

10 This large and pleasant park, a focus of the 1988 Olympics, also contains gal-

leries, museums and sculptures. (www.olympic park.co.kr; 424 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu; bLine 8 to Mongchontoseong, Exit 1 or Line 5 to Olympic Park Station, Exit 3)

lonelyplanet.comImages by Alex Barlow, Seongjoon Cho, Wendy Connett, dkcyun, Christian Kober/John Warburton-Lee

Photography Ltd, Lim Wai Yen, Richard Nebesky, Simon Richmond, Wibowo Rusli, Steve Vidler/ Getty Images ©. Many thanks to the following for the use of their content: Seoul Metro Map© 2015

Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corp

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