behind the scenes - lonely...
TRANSCRIPT
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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309309
OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Constantine Bogios, Jed Breed, Mara De Monte, Sylvie Gelinas, David Hixson, Max Holmberg, Patricia Kubala, Harriet Lawrence, Adrien Maggiora, Stephane Schockaert, Charice Silverman, Tomasz Smaczny, Felix Wagner, Estefania Walsh
AUTHOR THANKSJohn HechtThanks to the countless number of good people in the Yucatán who helped make this wonderful journey so special. Special gratitude goes out to commissioning editor Cliff Wilkin-son, co-author Lucas Vidgen, the book’s pre-vious authors, Yurij Gabassi and my wife, Lau, who looked after two hyperactive kitties.
Lucas VidgenThanks first and foremost to the Mexicans for making such an enjoyable country to travel and work in. Specifically, Andres and Sylvia were a huge help in San Cristóbal, and the Campeche section wouldn’t have been the same without Alonso Escobar and his compadre César. And as always, thanks to América, Sofía and Teresa for being there, and being there when I got back.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp1633–44.
Chichén Itzá illustration pp186–7 by Michael Weldon
Cover photograph: Cenote at Dzitnup (X’Kekén), JoseIgnacioSoto/Getty Images ©.
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
310
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán guidebook was re-searched and written by John Hecht and Lucas Vidgen. The previous edition was written by John Hecht and Sandra Bao. The ‘Yucatecan Cuisine’ chapter was written by Mau-
ricio Velázquez de León. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Clifton WilkinsonProduct Editors Kate Chap-man, Saralinda TurnerSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Michael Buick
Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Melanie Dankel, Bruce Evans, Paul Harding, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Vicky Smith, Fionnuala TwomeyAssisting Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Andi Jones, Karyn Noble, Lyahna Spencer
311©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
Aaccommodations 18, 284-6
language 302-3travel with children 43
activities 24-5, 286, see also canoeing & kayaking, diving & snorkeling, horseback riding, kiteboarding, surfing, zip-lining
agriculture 277aguas frescas 267Ah Tz’ib 273air travel 295-6airports 17, 295Aktun Chen 101Aktun-Ha 121Akumal 110-11, 35alcohol 266-8algae 99aluxes 102Ángeles Verdes 299animals 278-80, see also
individual animals, wildlife-watching
ants, leaf-cutter 123archaeological sites 20,
37-41, 37, 39, 40, 41Aguada Grande 88Balamkú 221Becán 224-5Bonampak 246-7Calakmul 13, 221-4, 13Casa de la Vieja 163Casa de las Tortugas 162Casa del Adivino 162, 23Castillo de Kukulcán 169Chicanná 224Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91,
184, 14, 40, 186-7Cobá 15, 121-4, 2, 15Comalcalco 241
Corredor Arqueológico 139-40
Cuadrángulo de las Monjas 162
Dzibanché 139-40Dzibilchaltún 177-8Dzibilnocac 215-16Edzná 216-17, 216, 29Ek’ Balam 195-6, 5El Caracol 188El Castillo 184-5El Castillo Real 88El Cedral 86El Osario 188El Palomar 163El Tabasqueño 215El Tigre 222Gran Juego de Pelota 185Gran Pirámide 163Grupo de las Mil
Columnas 185Grutas de Calcehtok 160Hochob 215Hormiguero 226Isla Cerritos 197Izamal 183Kabah 164-5Kinich-Kakmó 181Kohunlich 140Labná 165Mayapán 168-9Oxkintok 160Palacio del
Gobernador 162Palenque ruins 9, 241-3,
242, 8-9, 41Río Bec 226San Gervasio Ruins 88San Miguelito 56Santa Rita 140-1Sayil 165Templo de las
Inscripciones 242Templo del Barbado 185Tohcok 215
tours 41Tulum ruins 11, 114, 115,
114, 11, 27Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23,
37, 39Xcambó 180Xlapak 165Xpuhil 225Yamil Lu’um 56Yaxchilán 246, 247-8Zona Arqueológica El
Rey 56architecture
books 275colonial 21-2Maya 274-6
area codes 292art galleries, see also
museumsMuseo de Arte
Contemporáneo 143Museo de Arte Popular de
Yucatán 147Museo Subacuático de
Arte 57talleres de arte
(Izamal) 181arts 22, 157, 263-4Atasta Peninsula 220ATMs 290autumnal equinoxes, see
equinoxesAzul 106
BBahía de San Francisco 112Bahía Solimán 112Bahías de Punta
Solimán 112Balamkú 221ball courts 262
Becán 224Calaxmul 223Chichén Itzá 185, 186-7,
186-7
Cobá 122Palenque ruins 243Uxmal 162
baluartes 204banks 290bargaining 19baseball 172, 262bathhouses 196, 274beaches 20
Campeche 208Cancún 56-7, 15Ciudad del Carmen
219-20El Cuyo 199Isla Contoy 13, 13Isla Cozumel 86Isla Holbox 10, 71, 10Isla Mujeres 77Mahahual 129Playa del Carmen 103Progreso 178San Felipe 200Telchac Puerto 180
Bécal 213-14Becán 224-5beekeeping 219, 261beer 267Belize 141, 296Belize Barrier Reef 277bicycling 300-1birds & bird-watching 14,
199, 278-9, 14Bahías de Punta
Solimán 112Celestún 176Hacienda Real de
Salinas 174Isla Contoy 70Isla Holbox 71Punta Laguna 124Reserva de la Biosfera Ría
Celestún 174Río Lagartos 197Uaymitún 180Xcalak 131
312
IND
EX B- C
bloodletting 272blowholes 88boat travel 197, 296-7,
see also canoeing & kayaking, tours
Bonampak 246-7books 250, 263
architecture 40, 275environment 280history 252, 254, 258Maya 256, 274wildlife 278, 279
border crossingsBelize 141, 296Guatemala 296
bus travel 297-8, 300safety 238
business hours 291
CCalakmul 13, 221-4, 13Calle 60 146-7cameras 291
etiquette 264camiones 300Campeche (city) 15, 201-13,
206-7, 15accommodations 201,
209-10activities 203-8attractions 203-8climate 201drinking 211entertainment 211festivals & events 208-9food 201, 210-11highlights 202, 202history 203information 212tours 208travel seasons 201travel to/from 212travel within 212-13
Campeche (state) 52, 201-26, 202
Cancún 15, 50, 54-74, 55, 58, 15
accommodations 54, 59-61
activities 57-8beaches 56-7children, travel with 65courses 58
day trips 68drinking & nightlife 66entertainment 67food 54, 61-6highlights 55, 55history 56information 67-8orientation 67safety 57, 67-8shopping 67sights 56tours 58-9travel seasons 54travel to/from 69-70travel within 70
canoeing & kayaking 176Bahías de Punta
Solimán 112Felipe Carrillo Puerto 128Isla Holbox 72Isla Mujeres 78Mahahual 130Xcalak 131
cantinas 49car travel 298-300
safety 300Cárdenas, Guty 264Carnaval 24
Campeche 208Chetumal 135Ciudad del Carmen 220Isla Cozumel 84Mérida 151San Miguel de
Cozumel 91Casa de los Venados 191Casa de Montejo 143Casa del Adivino 162, 23Caste War, the 173, 257-8cathedrals, see churches &
cathedralscaves, see also cenotes
Aktun Chen 101Grutas de Balankanché
188-9Grutas de Calcehtok 160Grutas de Loltún 168, 28Grutas de
X’tacumbilxuna’an 215La Boca del Diablo 173Laguna de Mokú 222Las Grutas de Rancho
Nuevo 238CDs 264Celestún 14, 174-7, 14cell phones 16, 292Cenote Angelita 114Cenote X’Kekén 192-3, 2
cenotes 34, 166-7, 188, 277, 278, 9, 166-7
Aktun-Ha 121Azul 106Ben Ha 124Boca del Puma 99Cenote Angelita 114Cenote Azul 133Cenote Manatí 113Cenote X’Kekén 9, 167,
192-3, 2, 9, 166-7Cenote Xlacah 178Cenote Zací 193Cenotes de Cuzamá 169Cenotes Miguel
Colorado 222Cristalino Cenote 106Cuzamá 166, 167,
169, 167Dos Ojos 112, 167, 34, 166Dzitnup (X’Kekén) 9, 167,
192-3, 2, 9, 166-7El Jardín del Edén 106Gran Cenote 120-1, 167,
21, 166Multún-Ha 123Tamcach-Ha 123Xcacel-Xcacelito 112Zacil-Ha 121
cerveza 267Chaltún Há 183Champotón 217-18Chetumal 134-9, 136Chiapas 52, 227-39,
241-8, 228-9accommodations 227climate 227etiquette 247food 227highlights 228, 228-9history 230safety 247travel seasons 227
Chicanná 224Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91,
184, 14, 40, 186-7accommodations 189-90activities 189food 190history 183information 190sights 184-9travel to/from 190travel within 190-1
chikungunya virus 288children, travel with
22-3, 42-4Cancún 65
chilies 268chocolate 265
chocolaterías 211, 237museums 163, 231
Christianity 251, 262-3, 273-4
Chunchucmil 177churches & cathedrals
Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción 203
Catedral de San Ildefonso 146
Convento de San Antonio de Padua 181
Convento de Sisal 191Ex-Convento de
Santo Domingo de Guzmán 230-1
Franciscan church 173Franciscan
monastery 196Iglesia de Jesús 147Iglesia de San Antonio
de Padua 169Iglesia de San Francisco
de Asis 172, 213Iglesia La Mejorada 147San Cristóbal de las
Casas 230Templo 230-1Templo de San
Bernardino 191Templo de San Juan 238
cinemasCancún 67Isla Holbox 74
Ciudad Cancún 59-61, 61-4, 66, 62
Ciudad del Carmen 219-20
climate 16, 24-5, 285clothing 18Cobá 15, 121-4, 122, 2, 15cochinita pibil 154, 10, 47codices 256, 257coffee 47, 231colectivos 301collect calls 292Colombia Shallows 89Columbus, Christopher
255Comalcalco 241combis 301comiteco 236consulates 286-7Corozal 140-1Corredor Arqueológico
139-40
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
313IN
DEX C
- HCosta Maya, the 51,
126-41, 127festivals & events 126food 126highlights 127, 127travel seasons 126
costs 17, 48, 285courses 286
cooking 47, 100, 149, 151dance 58, 72, 74, 105,
108, 151language 23, 100, 105,
149, 231, 234yoga 72, 82, 234, 235
Cozumel, see Isla Cozumelcrafts 22, 157cranial deformation 135credit cards 16, 290, 292Cristalino Cenote 106crocodiles 279
Celestún 176Champotón 217Crococun Zoo 65Laguna de Nichupté 57Río Lagartos 197Tabasco 239Yaxchilán 248
Cuauhtémoc 183culture 260-4currency 16, 17, 290customs regulations 286Cuzamá 166, 167, 167cycling, see bicycling
Ddance 22, 264
lessons 58, 72, 74, 105, 108, 151
dangers, see safetyDay of the Dead 25, 151,
267-8, 45day trips
Cancún 68Chiapas 244Mérida 158Yucatán 170
dengue fever 288Día de la Marina 198Día de Muertos 25, 151,
267-8, 45Díaz, Porfirio 258disabilities, travelers
with 293discounts 19, 286diving & snorkeling 20,
32-6, see also cenotesAkumal 111, 35Banco Chinchorro 129
Cancún 57Isla Cozumel 11, 88,
89-90, 11, 32, 36Isla Mujeres 77, 78Mahahual 129-30Museo Subacuático de
Arte 57Paamul 110Parque Dos Ojos 112Playa del Carmen
103, 105Puerto Morelos 99Punta Allen 125safety 36shipwrecks 99, 129,
158, 36Tulum 114Xcalak 132
Dos Ojos (cenote) 112, 167, 34, 166
drinking water 289drinks 49, 236, 266-7driving, see car traveldrugs 250DVDs 264, 288Dzibanché 139-40Dzibilchaltún 177-8Dzilam de Bravo 180Dzitnup (X’Kekén) 9, 167,
192-3, 2, 9, 166-7
Eeconomy 251ecotourism 71, 281Edzná 216-17, 216, 29Ek’ Balam 195-6, 5El Castillo 184-5El Corchito 178El Cuyo 199El Jardín del Edén 106electricity 286embassies 286-7emergencies 17
language 304endangered species 280environment 277-82environmental issues 282equinoxes 24, 178, 183,
185, 276Estructura 44 178etiquette 19
Chiapas 247dining 49photography 247, 264
events, see festivals & events
exchange rates 17
FFelipe Carrillo Puerto 128-9festivals & events
24-5, 220Campeche 208-9Carnaval 24, 84, 91, 135,
151, 208, 220Cruzando Fronteras 130Día de la Marina 198Día de los Reyes
Magos 196Día de Muertos 25, 151,
267-8, 45Feria de la Primavera y
de la Paz 234Feria del Cedral 91Festival Cervantino
Barroco 234Festival de las
Culturas 234fiesta food 267-8Jats’a Já Festival 130La Feria de Santiago 198Mérida 24, 151Riviera Maya 97Semana Santa 234Vernal Equinox 24
films 250fish 279-80fishing
Cancún 57Celestún 176Chetumal 135Dzilam de Bravo 180Isla Holbox 71Isla Mujeres 77-8Mahahual 130Playa del Carmen
103, 105Punta Allen 125Río Lagartos 198San Felipe 200Xcalak 132
flamingos 14, 180, 197, 199, 281, 14, see also birds & bird-watching
food 10, 22, 45-9, 265-71, 10, 45, 47, 48, 49, see also individual locations
Campechano cuisine 210chocolate 163, 211, 231,
237, 265coffee 47, 231cooking courses 47, 100,
149, 151etiquette 49honey 219, 261, 267
language 269-71, 303-4seasons 46
fortsFuerte de San Miguel
206Fuerte Museo San José
del Alto 207Laguna Bacalar 133
fútbol 262
Ggalleries, see art galleries,
museumsgay travelers 287geography 277-82glossary 269-71, 307-8Gran Cenote 120-1, 167,
21, 166Great Maya Barrier Reef 277Green Angels 299Grutas de Calcehtok 160Grutas de Loltún 168, 28-9Guatemala 296
Hhabanero chilies 268Habuk 183haciendas 175, 177
Hacienda Mundaca 83Hacienda Real de
Salinas 174Hacienda San Ildefonso
Teya 175Hacienda San Lorenzo
Oxman 191-2Hacienda San Pedro
Ochil 175Hacienda Santa Rosa 175Hacienda Xcanatún 175Hacienda Yaxcopoil 175
hammocks 156handicrafts 22, 157health 287-9
insurance 289heat exhaustion 289Hecelchakán 213hepatitis A 288highlights
Campeche 202Cancún 55Chiapas 228Costa Maya 127Isla Cozumel 85Isla Mujeres 76Riviera Maya 98Tabasco 228Yucatán 144
314
IND
EX H- M
hikingCenotes Miguel
Colorado 222Isla Contoy 70San Cristóbal de las
Casas 230Síijil Noh Há 128
historybooks 252, 254, 258Campeche 203Cancún 56Caste War, the 173, 257-8Chiapas 230Chichén Itzá 183Cobá 121Independence 257internet resources
253, 259Isla Cozumel 85-6Isla Mujeres 77Maya 252-5Mérida 143Mexican Revolution 258-9oil production 259Olmec influence 252Spanish conquest &
colonial period 255-7Toltecs 254Tulum 113Uxmal 161-2Valladolid 191
hitchhiking 300holidays 291honey 219, 261, 267Hopelchén 214Hormiguero 226horseback riding
Boca del Puma 44, 99Celestún 174, 176Isla Cozumel 90, 93Isla Holbox 72Punta Venado 109
hurricanes 125, 131, 250, 278Hwy 27 179
Iimmigration 295incense 256indigenous peoples 240insects 231insurance
car 299health 289
internet access 289internet resources 17
culture 262environment 281history 253, 259Maya books 255Maya ruins 40music 264wildlife 282
Isla Aguada 218Isla Cerritos 197Isla Contoy 13, 70-1, 13Isla Cozumel 11, 51, 84-96,
85, 87, 90accommodations
84, 91-3activities 88-91drinking & nightlife 94entertainment 95festivals & events 91food 84, 93-4highlights 85, 85history 85-6information 95shopping 95sights 86-8travel seasons 84travel to/from 95travel within 95-6
Isla de Pájaros 218Isla Holbox 10, 71-4, 10Isla Mujeres 12, 50, 76, 80
accommodations 75, 78-9
activities 77-8beaches 77drinking & nightlife 82food 75, 79-82highlights 76, 76history 77information 82-3orientation 82tours 77-8travel seasons 75travel to/from 83travel within 83
itineraries 26-9Itzá 254-5Itzamatul 183Izamal 181-3
Jjaguars 124, 163, 279, 282jipijapas 214juego de pelotas, see ball
courts
KKabah 164-5Kan B’alam II 241K’an Joy Chitam II 241kayaking, see canoeing &
kayakingKimbilá 183kiteboarding 57, 199
LLa Feria de Santiago 198la lotería 211Lacandón Jungle 248lacandones 240, 248Laguna Bacalar 12, 133-4,
2, 12Laguna de Términos 218-19Laguna Yal-Kú 110-11Landa, Friar Diego de 256language 251, 260, 302-8
courses 23, 100, 105, 149, 231, 234
food & drinks 269-71, 303-4
Spanish 302-5useful phrases 19Yucatec Maya 306
Las Coloradas 199leaf-cutter ants 123legal matters 289lesbian travelers 287literature, see booksLoltún Caverns, see Grutas
de Loltún
MMahahual 129-31malaria 288Malecón 205Mamita’s Beach 103mammals 279maps 289-90, 299markets 102
Cancún 67Mérida 146Oxkutzcab 171San Cristóbal de las
Casas 231Valladolid 191
Maya 172, 272-6, see also archaeological sites
architecture 37-41, 274-6body art 135books 40, 256, 274calendar 41, 257, 276codices 256, 257
community-based tourism 41, 71
history 252-5honey 219internet resources 40,
255, 259museums 38, 135, 147,
178, 231Popol Vuh 273religion 272-4
Mayapán 168-9meal times 268measures 288Méndez, Sierra Justo 205Mennonites 208Mérida 12, 143-60, 148-9, 12
accommodations 151-3activities 149courses 149drinking & nightlife 155entertainment 155festivals & events 151food 153-5history 143information 156-7orientation 156shopping 155-6sights 143-9tours 149-51travel to/from 157-9travel within 159-63
Mérida Fest 24, 151Mesoamerican Barrier
Reef 277meteorites 253mezcalerías 49mobile phones 16, 292money 17, 290
bargaining 19discount cards 286discounts 19taxes 265tipping 19, 265, 290transfers 290
monkeys 279Montejo, Francisco de
254, 255Montejo, Francisco de
(the Younger) 143, 191, 254, 255
mosquitoes 18, 71, 288motorcycle travel 298mugging 291-2murals 146museums 219, see also art
galleriesCafé Museo Café 231Casa de los Venados 191
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
315IN
DEX M
- SCasa de Montejo 143Centro Cultural y
Artesanal 181Centro Ecológico
Akumal 110Choco-Story 163Gran Museo del Mundo
Maya 147Maya 38Museo Arqueológico de
Campeche & Fuerte de San Miguel 206
Museo Arqueológico del Camino Real 213
Museo Bichos e Insectos 231
Museo Capitán Dulché 77
Museo de Historia Natural 239
Museo de la Arquitectura Maya 204
Museo de la Ciudad 135, 146, 204
Museo de la Cultura Maya 135
Museo de la Guerra de Castas 173
Museo de la Isla de Cozumel 86
Museo de la Medicina Maya 231
Museo de Naturaleza y Arqueología 221-2
Museo de San Roque 191Museo de Sitio 242Museo del Ámbar de
Chiapas 231Museo del Archivo
General de Estado 204Museo del Cacao 231Museo del Pueblo
Maya 178Museo Maya de
Cancún 56Museo Regional de
Antropología 147, 239Na Bolom 231Parque-Museo La
Venta 239Santa Elena Museum 163
music 263-4
Nnational parks & reserves
20-1, 281-2, see also parks & gardens, wildlife reserves
El Corchito 178Parque Dos Ojos 112
Parque Nacional Isla Contoy 70-1
Parque Nacional Palenque 241-2
Parque Punta Sur 86, 88Reserva de la Biosfera
Calakmul 222Reserva de la Biosfera
Ría Celestún 174Reserva de la Biosfera
Ría Lagartos 197Sian Ka’an Biosphere
Reserve 124-5newspapers 288nightlife 22, 49numbers 303
OOlmec people 252opening hours 291Oxkintok 160Oxkutzcab 171-2
PPaamul 109-10packing lists 18Pakal 241Palancar Gardens 89Palenque 241-5Palenque ruins 9, 241-3,
242, 8-9, 41panuchos 47, 49parks & gardens, see
also national parks & reserves
Jardín Botánico Dr Alfredo Barrera Marín 99
Jardín Botánico Xmuch Haltún 204
Parque-Museo La Venta 239
Parque Santa Lucía 146Punta Sur 77
Parroquia Los Santos Reyes de Tizimín 196
Paseo de Montejo 147-9passports 295phone cards 293photography 291
etiquette 247, 264pickpocketing 291-2pirates 205planning
budgeting 17calendar of events 24-5Cancún, Cozumel & the
Yucatán basics 16-17
Cancún, Cozumel & Yucatán regions 50
children, travel with 22-3, 42-4, 65
first-time visitors 18-19food 45-9internet resources 17itineraries 26-9off the beaten track
30-1, 30-1travel seasons 16, 24-5vaccinations 287-8
plants 280-1Playa del Carmen
103-9, 104accommodations 105-7activities 103-5beaches 103drinking & nightlife 108food 107-8information 109safety 109shopping 108tours 105travel to/from 109travel within 109
Plaza Grande 143-6Plaza Principal 203-4politics 250-1Popol Vuh 273population 208, 240,
251, 261-2postal services 291pox 236pozol 236Progreso 178-9public holidays 291Puerto Morelos 99-103, 21Punta Allen 124, 125Punta Bete 103Punta Laguna 124Punta Molas 88Punta Sur Reef 89Punta Venado 109Puuc Route 165-8pyramids 272, 273,
275, 276, see also archaeological sites
QQuintana Roo, see
individual locations
Rramparts 204recados 266
religion 251, 262-3, 272-4resorts 20, 60Río Bec 226Río Lagartos 197-9Riviera Maya 51, 97-125, 98
beaches 97festivals & events 97food 97highlights 98, 98travel seasons 97
robbery 291-2Ruta Puuc 165-8
SSabancuy 218safety 291-2
Cancún 57, 67-8Chiapas 247children, with 42-3diving & snorkeling 36hitchhiking 300Playa del Carmen 109road 300San Cristóbal de las
Casas 238Tulum 120women travelers 294
salsa lessons 58, 72, 74, 105, 108, 151
San Crisanto 180San Cristóbal de las Casas
11, 230-8, 232-3, 11accommodations 234-6courses 231, 234drinking & nightlife 237festivals & events 234food 236-7information 237safety 238sights 230-1tours 234, 238travel to/from 237-8travel within 238
San Felipe 200tours 200
San Gervasio 88San Juan Chamula 238-9San Miguel de Cozumel
86, 90Santa Clara 180Santa Elena 163-4Santa Rosa Wall 89scorpions
bites 289symbolism 240
scuba diving, see diving & snorkeling
316
IND
EX S- Z
sea turtles, see turtlesseaweed 99Selva Lacandona 248Selvática 101Semana Santa 151shipwrecks 99, 129,
158, 36smoking 288snake bites 289snorkeling, see diving &
snorkelingsoccer 262sopa de lima 10, 43, 47,
266, 48Southern Caribbean Coast,
see Costa Maya, theSpanish language 302-5spelling 260sports 262sunburn 289surfing
Cancún 57Isla Cozumel 91
sweat lodges 196, 274swimming 21, 34, see also
beaches, cenotesChichén Itzá 189El Corchito 178Hacienda San Lorenzo
Oxman 191-2Laguna Bacalar 133
TTabasco 227-8, 239-41,
228-9talking cross 258Tankah 113tascalate 236taxes 265, 290, 296taxis 301Tekax 172-3telephone services 16, 292-3temascals 196, 274Temple of the Seven
Dolls 178Templo de las Siete
Muñecas 178theaters
Cancún 67Mérida 146, 147
theft 291-2theme parks 44, 65, 101Ticul 169-71Tihosuco 173
time 16, 293language 305
tipping 19, 265, 290Tizimín 196-7Tohcok 215Toltecs 254toucans 124, 222, 239,
241, see also birds & bird-watching
tourist information 293tours
Atasta Peninsula 220Campeche 208Cancún 58-9, 65Celestún 174, 176Isla Contoy 70Isla Holbox 71-2Isla Mujeres 77-8Laguna Bacalar 133Maya ruins 41Mérida 149-51Playa del Carmen 105Río Lagartos 197-8San Cristóbal de las
Casas 234, 238San Felipe 200Tulum 114Valladolid 193
traditional clothes 157, 263, 264
transportation 295-301language 305
travel seasons 16, 34travel to/from Cancún,
Cozumel & the Yucatán 141, 295-7
travel within Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 297-301
traveling off the beaten track 30-1, 30-1
trekking, see hiking, national parks & reserves
Tulum 113-20, 114, 116-17accommodations 114-18activities 114drinking & nightlife 119food 118-19history 113information 120orientation 119-20safety 120shopping 119sights 114tours 114travel to/from 120travel within 120
Tulum ruins 11, 114, 115, 114, 11, 27
turtles 280Akumal 110-11, 35Isla Contoy 54Isla Mujeres 12, 75,
78, 12Paamul 110Puerto Morelos 99Sabancuy 218volunteering 294Xcacel-Xcacelito 112
TV 288typhoid fever 288Tzeltal people 230, 240Tzotzil people 230, 238,
240, 263
UUaymitún 180Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23,
37, 39
Vvacations 291Valladolid 191-5, 192vegan travelers 268vegetarian travelers 268Velázquez, Diego 255vernal equinoxes 24, see
also equinoxesvideo 291Villahermosa 239-41visas 16, 293-4volunteering 294
Wwalking, see hiking,
national parks & reserves
water 289water parks 44, 65, 101weather 16, 24-5, 285websites, see internet
resourcesweights 288whale sharks 25, 35, 72,
279, 280Isla Contoy 70Isla Holbox 54, 71Isla Mujeres 75, 77, 78
wildlife 278-81books 279
wildlife reserves, see national parks & reserves, wildlife- watching, zoos
wildlife-watching 197, 218, see also birds & bird- watching, individual species
windsurfing 93women travelers 294World Heritage sites
Calakmul 13, 221-4, 13Campeche 15, 52,
201-26, 202, 206-7, 15
Chichén Itzá 14, 183-91, 184, 14, 40, 186-7
Palenque ruins 9, 241-3, 242, 8-9, 41
Sian Ka’an 124-5Uxmal 160-3, 161, 23,
37, 39
XXcacel-Xcacelito 111-12Xcalak 131-2Xcambó 180Xcaret 101Xel-Há 101X’Kekén (cenote) 9, 167,
192-3, 2, 9, 166-7Xplor 101Xpu-Há 110Xpujil 225
YYaxchilán 246, 247-8yoga classes 72, 82, 234,
235Yucatán state 52,
142-200, 144-5accommodations 142festivals & events 142food 142highlights 144-5, 144-5travel seasons 142
Yucatec Maya 306
ZZacil-Ha 121zip-lining 99, 101, 105, 121,
123, 124, 196, 222Zoh-Laguna 226Zona Hotelera 61, 64-6, 66zoos, see also wildlife
reservesCrococun Zoo 65Parque-Museo La
Venta 239Parque Zoológico del
Centenario 146
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
318
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LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE
319
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Map Legend
Published by Lonely Planet Global LtdCRN 5541537th edition – September 2016ISBN 978 1 78657 017 8© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSJohn HechtCancún & Around, Isla Mujeres, Isla Cozumel, Riviera Maya, Costa Maya & the Southern Caribbean, Yucatán State & the Maya Heartland John has spent more than 20 years living in Mexico, during which time he has contributed to numer-ous editions of the Lonely Planet Mexico book. He was coordinating author on the previous edition of LP’s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán and he produced a series of short videos shot in the Yucatán region for Lonely Planet TV. He lives in
Mexico City with his Mexican wife. Mom’s still waiting for him to return to the good ole’ USA. John also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand (except Yucatecan Cuisine), and Survival Guide chapters.
Lucas VidgenCampeche, Chiapas Lucas first visited Mexico back in 2002, breezing through the Yucatán long enough to be captivated by the lush scenery and irresistible food. Later he moved to Guatemala, which served as a good base for exploring Chiapas and the rest of the Mundo Maya. Lucas has contributed to a variety of Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Central and South America. Back home he publishes – and very occasionally works on – Quetzaltenango’s leading nightlife
magazine, XelaWho (www.xelawho.com).
Contributing WriterMauricio Velázquez de León was born in Mexico City, where he was given boiled chicken feet and toasted corn tortillas to sooth his teething pains. He is the author of My Foodie ABC: A Little Gourmet’s Guide (Duo Press, 2010) and lives in Maryland with his wife and twin sons, whose teething pains were soothed with toasted corn tortillas. Mauricio wrote the Yucatecan Cuisine chapter in this book.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’