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534 SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help- ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Cayla Damick, Dan Allen, David Wingo, Donna Harshman, Duncan Smith, Enrico Mezzato, Fanny Wiedmer, Frances Pordes, Jennifer Covington, Juliette Giannesini, Jurgen van de Vijver, Luise Winkler, Nan Oomes, Paola Brighenti, Paul de lange, Sarah Hatherell, Sonia Rodrigue, Stefano Mezzato and Ville Ekman AUTHOR THANKS Wendy Yanagihara I wish to acknowledge some amazing staff at Lonely Planet with whom I’ve had the pleasure of working, who have since departed, and who are greatly missed. Catherine, Kathleen and Bruce laid the groundwork for this book. Special thanks in Costa Rica go to Corey, Chapu, Bob, Monique and Marcel, Kathleen, rangers Herold and Roger, Yolanda and Manuel. Abrazos to Chris for traveling all the way from the Middle East to Central America, and to my superstar support system in Carp. Gregor Clark Muchísimas gracias to the countless people who shared their knowledge, especially Daryl and Lydia in Tortuguero, Sara and Toine in Orosi, Lis in Turrialba, José and David at La Danta Salvaje, Jürgen at Selva Bananito, Fernando vand Sarah in Punta Mona, and Andrés and Brian in San José. Besos y abrazos to Meigan and Dr Bwinkle, for adventuring with me from the Caribbean to the volcano-tops, and to Gaen, who always makes coming home the best part of the trip. Mara Vorhees Thanks to Catherine Craddock for many years of leadership and cooperation on Central America titles – you will be missed! I am so grateful to my parents for their patient hearts and adventurous spirits. And thank you to my boys, all three of them, for coming along on this amazing journey. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlay- son BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifica- tion’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. Cover photograph: Baby three-toed sloth, Mark Kostich/Getty © Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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534

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Cayla Damick, Dan Allen, David Wingo, Donna Harshman, Duncan Smith, Enrico Mezzato, Fanny Wiedmer, Frances Pordes, Jennifer Covington, Juliette Giannesini, Jurgen van de Vijver, Luise Winkler, Nan Oomes, Paola Brighenti, Paul de lange, Sarah Hatherell, Sonia Rodrigue, Stefano Mezzato and Ville Ekman

AUTHOR THANKS Wendy YanagiharaI wish to acknowledge some amazing staff at Lonely Planet with whom I’ve had the pleasure of working, who have since departed, and who are greatly missed. Catherine, Kathleen and Bruce laid the groundwork for this book. Special thanks in Costa Rica go to Corey, Chapu, Bob, Monique and Marcel, Kathleen, rangers Herold and Roger, Yolanda and Manuel. Abrazos to Chris for traveling all the way from the Middle East to Central America, and to my superstar support system in Carp.

Gregor ClarkMuchísimas gracias to the countless people who shared their knowledge, especially Daryl and Lydia in Tortuguero, Sara and Toine in Orosi, Lis in Turrialba, José and David at La Danta Salvaje, Jürgen at Selva Bananito, Fernando vand Sarah in Punta Mona, and Andrés and Brian in San José. Besos y abrazos to Meigan and Dr Bwinkle, for adventuring with me from the Caribbean to the volcano-tops, and to Gaen, who always makes coming home the best part of the trip.

Mara VorheesThanks to Catherine Craddock for many years of leadership and cooperation on Central America titles – you will be missed! I am so grateful to my parents for their patient hearts and adventurous spirits. And thank you to my boys, all three of them, for coming along on this amazing journey.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlay-son BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifica-tion’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

Cover photograph: Baby three-toed sloth, Mark Kostich/Getty ©

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS BOOK This 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Costa Rica guidebook was researched and written by Wendy Yanagihara, Gregor Clark and Mara Vorhees. The previ-ous edition was researched and written by Nate Cavalieri, Adam Skolnick and Wendy Yanagihara.This guidebook was com-missioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following:Commissioning Editors Catherine Craddock-Carrillo, Kathleen Munnelly

Managing Editor Bruce EvansCoordinating Editor Sarah BaileyProduct Editor Kate MathewsSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepSenior Editor Karyn NobleAssisting Editors Nigel Chin, Charlotte Orr, Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross TaylorAssisting Cartographers Corey Hutchison, Valentina Kremenchutskaya

Assisting Book Designer Virginia MorenoCover Researcher Naomi ParkerLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Ljubomir Ceranic, Brendan Dempsey, Elizabeth Jones, Catherine Naghten, Claire Naylor, Martine Power, Eleanor Simpson, Ron Tjoeka, Tracy Whitmey, Amanda Williamson

536

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodations 24, 506-7,

see also individual locations

ecolodges 29luxury resorts 29

activities 30-2, 40-50, see also individual activities

addresses 511Afro-Caribbean culture 167,

168, 188air travel 518-19, 521-2, 522Alajuela 108-12, 110alligators 327, 396, 420,

442amphibians, see frogsanimals 487-99, see also

individual speciesants 498aquariums

Parque Marino del Pacífico 353

aracaris 393, 458, 21archaeological sites 469

Alma Ata Archaeological Park 282

Finca Cántaros 427Monumento Nacional

Arqueológico Guayabo 138

Parque Nacional Carara 356

Sitio Arqueológico Finca 6 449

area codes 515Área de Conservación

Guanacaste 237-40, 233Arenal, see Volcán ArenalArias Sánchez, Óscar

474, 475art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 479-80, see also

individual arts

Atenas 115ATMs 513

BBahía Drake 451-5, 452Bahía Gigante 333-4Bahía Potrero 296Bahía Salinas 242-4Baird’s tapir 413, 420, 431,

458, 460, 497Bajos del Toro 119-20banana industry 148, 472-3bargaining 25Barra del Colorado 166-7Barrio Amón 70, 17Barva 124-5basilisks 15bathrooms 515Battle of Santa Rosa 237beaches 27

Bahía Salinas 242-3Cahuita 168El Segundo 356Golfito 433Manuel Antonio Village

388Matapalo 395Montezuma 336-7Nosara 318Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 404Península de Nicoya 298Playa Avellanas 312Playa Blanca 441Playa Brasilito 300Playa Caletas 456Playa Camaronal 328Playa Carrillo 327Playa Cativo 435Playa Cocalito 456Playa Cocles 185Playa Cocolito 339Playa Conchal 300-1Playa Coyote 329, 332Playa Doña Ana 356Playa Esterillos 371-2

Playa Flamingo 297Playa Grande 301-2Playa Guiones 318Playa Hermosa (Pacific

Coast) 370Playa Hermosa (Península

de Nicoya) 293Playa Herradura 359-60Playa Junquillal 313Playa Negra 312Playa Nicuesa 435Playa Ocotal 295Playa Palo Seco 376Playa Pan de Azúcar 297Playa Penca 296Playa Pochote 335Playa Sámara 323Playa San Isidro 356Playa San Josecito 435,

456Playa San Miguel 329Playa Santa Teresa 14Playa Tamarindo 303-4Playa Tambor 335Puerto Jiménez 442Puerto Limón 150Punta Uva 185

beetles 498bellbirds 215bicycle travel, see cyclingBijagua 220-1Biolley 430biological reserves, see

national parks & reservesbirds 490-1, see also

individual speciesbird-watching 27-8, 44, 46,

487-8Área de Conservación

Guanacaste 238Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 213Hacienda Barú National

Wildlife Refuge 395-6Nature Pavilion 280Parque Internacional La

Amistad 431

Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo 144

Parque Nacional Carara 357

Parque Nacional Chirripó 420

Parque Nacional Corcovado 458

Parque Nacional Isla del Coco 440

Parque Nacional Los Quetzales 413-14

Parque Nacional Marino Ballena 404

Parque Nacional Palo Verde 225

Parque Nacional Tortuguero 158

Rafiki Safari Lodge 394-5Refugio Nacional de

Vida Silvestre Bahía Junquillal 240-1

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 271-2

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú 335

San Gerardo de Dota 412San Isidro de El General

415blue morpho butterflies 73,

276, 498, 498boat travel 521, 522-3boat trips

Isla Tortuga 334Parque Nacional Palo

Verde 225Parque Nacional

Tortuguero 158Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí

283Puntarenas 353Tortuguero 159

Boca Tapada 277-8books 109, 464, 473, 476,

479, 483, 501border crossings 520-1

Nicaragua 163, 242, 270Panama 189

Index

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

537IN

DEX B- D

Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 11, 212-16, 28, 214, 233, 503

Bribrí 191-2Bribrí people 167, 183, 407,

431, 467, 478bridges

Crocodile Bridge 357Rock Bridge 116

budget 23bullfighting 30, 97, 213,

252, 268, 290, 478bungee jumping 116,

131, 202bus travel 521, 523, 525-6business hours 513butterflies 238, 276, 395,

440, 498, 498Arenal EcoZoo 261Butterfly Garden 195Mike’s Jungle Butterfly

Farm 332Santuario de Mariposas

Aguas Silvestres 280Spirogyra Jardín de

Mariposas 73

CCabécar people 141, 183,

407, 422, 431, 467Cabo Matapalo 446-8Cabuya 342cacao 174, 203, 441Cahuita 168-74, 168-9Calderón Guardia, Rafael

Ángel 471, 472, 473Canales de Tortuguero 154Cañas 218-20canoeing, see also kayaking,

white-water raftingLa Fortuna 252Parque Nacional

Tortuguero 158Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí

283Río Sarapiquí 283Tortuguero 159

canopy tours 48Arenal Paraíso Canopy

Tours 253Aventura 202Canopy Los Cañones

253Crazy Monkey Canopy

Tour 185Ecoglide 253Extremo Canopy 202Hacienda Barú National

Wildlife Refuge 395-6Hacienda Pozo Azul

Adventures 280

Miravalles Volcano Adventure Center 224

Miss Sky 318Monteverde Theme Park

195, 197Original Canopy Tour

202Rainforest Aerial Tram

146Rainmaker Aerial

Walkway 372Río Perdido 26Selvatura 202Sky Trek 262SkyTram 199SkyTrek 202Spider Monkey Canopy

Tour 241Sun Trails 338Titi Canopy Tours 374Veragua Rainforest

Research & Adventure Park 152

Wing Nuts 324canyoning 199

La Fortuna 253Laguna de Arenal 264

capuchins 497, 496car travel 521, 523-5caracaras 386Carate 448-9Cariari 147Caribbean Coast 61,

140-92, 142-3climate 140food 140highlights 142

carretas 117, 126Cartago 125-9cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Parque Nacional Barra Honda Caverns 317

Venado Caves 276cell phones 22, 515Central Valley 60, 105-39,

106-7accommodations 105climate 105food 105highlights 106-7

ceramics 97, 315Cerro Chirripó 16, 62,

419-21, 16, 428Cerro de La Muerte 414children, travel with 51-4

Central Valley 132Jacó 362Manuel Antonio area 382

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 393

Quepos 377San José 71

Chiquita Banana, see United Fruit Company

Chorotega ceramics 97, 315

Chorotega people 315-16, 467

churches & cathedralsBasílica de Nuestra

Señora de Los Ángeles 128, 91

Catedral de la Mercedes 116

Catedral Metropolitana 72

Cathedral (Alajuela) 108Iglesia de Cañas 218Iglesia de la Inmaculada

Concepción 122Iglesia de San José

Orosi 131Iglesia de San Ramón

120Iglesia San Bartolomé

124La Agonía 227

Cinco Ceibas 26, 282cinemas

Escaleras 401Manuel Antonio area 385San José 95

Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) 276-7

climate 22, 30-2, 508, see also individual regions

cloud forests 214-15, 485, see also national parks & reserves, parks & gardens

Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 11, 212, 214-15

Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo 144

Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba 139

Reserva Santa Elena 203coatis 133, 138, 175, 198,

206, 213, 225, 238, 248, 260, 286, 317, 322, 343, 393, 447, 458, 497, 496

coffee industry 471-2, 501coffee plantations 19,

202-3, 19Columbus, Christopher

467-9consulates 508-9Coronado, Juan Vásquez de

468, 469

courses, see dance courses, language courses

credit cards 513crocodiles 225, 283, 301,

357, 434, 436, 492safety 239, 303tours 359

culture 476-80currency 22customs regulations 508cycling 49-50, 522

La Fortuna 251Playa Tamarindo 305

Ddance 479dance courses

Montezuma 338San José 75

dangers, see safetydengue fever 510disabilities, travelers

with 516diving & snorkeling 29,

48-9Bahía Drake 451-2Manzanillo 188Montezuma 338Parque Nacional Isla del

Coco 439-40Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 404Parque Nacional Cahuita

175-6Península de Nicoya 295Playa Conchal 300-1Playa del Coco 290Playa Hermosa 293Playa Ocotal 295Playa Tamarindo 305Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 177-8Punta Uva 185Quepos 375Refugio Nacional de Vida

Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 190-1

dolphins 494, 495Bahía Drake 453environmental issues 499Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 404Quepos 375Refugio Nacional de

Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 191

Dominical 396-401Drake, Francis 470

538

INDEX D

- H

drinking 55-9, 57, 59, see also individual locations

driving, see car travelDVDs 514

Eearthquakes 514ecostays 29

Arenas del Mar 383Casa Corcovado Jungle

Lodge 457Casa Río Blanco B&B

146La Danta Salvaje 145Maquenque Eco-Lodge

278Rancho Naturalista 137San Luis Ecolodge 207Selva Bananito 173Villa Blanca Cloud

Forest Hotel & Nature Reserve 121

El Castillo 261-3El Fortín 122electricity 508, 514embassies 508-9emergencies 514endangered species 488,

499environment 464-5environmental issues 135,

500-2banana industry 148books 501deforestation 273, 500-2golden toads 217ojoche 405reefs 483tourism 502turtles 154, 156-7

epiphytes 214Escaleras 401esferas (spheres) 449, 469Estación Biológica La

Selva 285etiquette 25events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 23eyelash pit viper 493, 493

Ffauna, see animals,

individual species

fer-de-lance pit viper 492festivals & events 30-2

Alajuela 109Barva 124Best Fest 26, 30, 402Costa Rica Film Festival

338-9Día de Juan Santamaría

31Día de los Muertos 32Envision Art, Music &

Sacred Movement Festival 402

Feria de la Mascarada 30-1

Fiesta de los Diablitos 423

Fiestas de la Fortuna 252

Independence Day 31-2Jungle Jam 26, 30, 363Las Fiestas de

Guanacaste 213Las Fiestas de Palmares

30, 120Playa del Coco 290Puerto Limón 150Puntarenas 354

Figueres Ferrer, José 472, 473, 474

films 464, 480fishing 29

Bahía Drake 452-3Barra del Colorado 166Cahuita 169Golfito 433Playa Carrillo 327Playa del Coco 290Playa Hermosa 293Playa Tamarindo 303Puerto Jiménez 444Quepos 375Refugio Nacional de

Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 271

San Gerardo de Dota 412Talamanca 412

food 55-9, 55, 58, 164football (soccer) 478forests, see national parks

& reservesfrogs 492-3

gaudy leaf frogs 493golden toads 217poison-dart frogs 457,

488, 492, 487, 492red-eyed tree frogs

492, 7yellow tree frog 365

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgallo pinto 57Gandoca 190Garabito 358gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travelers 509-10

Manuel Antonio 385San José 95

geography 481-3geology 482-3golden toads 217golf

Playa del Coco 290Playa Tamarindo 305San José 75

Golfito 432-4Golfo Dulce 20, 432-9, 20great green macaws 158,

279, 329Grecia 116-17green iguanas 158, 271,

393, 492, 492Guaitil 315Guápiles 145-7Guatuso 274-5Guaymí people 426

HHacienda Barú National

Wildlife Refuge 395-6hammerhead sharks 494health 510-11Hercules beetle 498Heredia 121-4, 122hiking 28-9, 41-2

Área de Conservación Guanacaste 238-9

Bahía Drake 451Bahía Drake to

Corcovado 455-7Big Forest Hike 26Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 212-13Cerro Chirripó 420El Castillo 262Estación Biológica La

Selva 285Hacienda Barú National

Wildlife Refuge 395-6Jacó 362La Fortuna 253Las Hornillas 224Monteverde 197-9Orosi 131Parque Internacional La

Amistad 430-1

Parque Nacional Barra Honda 317

Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo 144-5

Parque Nacional Cahuita 175

Parque Nacional Carara 357-8

Parque Nacional Chirripó 420-1

Parque Nacional Corcovado 460-1

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 392-3

Parque Nacional Palo Verde 225

Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja 234

Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte 133

Parque Nacional Tortuguero 158

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal 260-1

Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio 222

Playa Cocolito 339Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí

283Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 178Rafiki Safari Lodge

394-5Refugio Nacional de Vida

Silvestre Curú 335Refugio Nacional de Vida

Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 190

Reserva Biológica Nosara 318

Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco 343

Reserva Santa Elena 203San Gerardo de Dota 412Santa Elena 197-9Sendero Botos 113Sendero Canto de

Aves 113Tortuguero 159Volcán Arenal 253

hire cars 524-5history 467-75

banana industry 472-3books 473, 476civil war 473-4coffee industry 471-2colonization 467-71Columbus, Christopher

467-9disarmament 473-4independence 470-1

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

539IN

DEX H- M

Nicaraguan war 474-5pre-Columbian era

467, 468Santa Rosa 237US influence 474-5

hitchhiking 525holidays 514Horquetas 285-6horse parades 213horse riding 49

Cahuita 169Jacó 362-3La Fortuna 252La Virgen 280Monteverde 199, 212Montezuma 338Quepos 375Rafiki Safari Lodge

394-5Santa Elena 199Volcán Arenal 252

hot springs 235Canyon de la Vieja

Adventure Lodge 235Eco Termales Hot

Springs 251El Guayacán 224El Tucano Resort 276-7Hot Springs Rio Negro

234Orosi 131Paradise Hot Springs 251Rio Perdido 223-4Springs Resort & Spa

252Tabacón Hot Springs 252Termales del Bosque 276Termales Miravalles 224Thermal Hot Springs

417-18Thermo Manía 224Yökö Termales 224

howler monkeys 155, 175, 203, 213, 234, 248, 259, 271, 322, 332, 387, 393, 433, 497

Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe 450-1

humpback whales 243, 295, 393, 401, 403, 404, 453, 494

hummingbirds 215coppery-headed emerald

hummingbird 45fiery-throated

hummingbird 490green-crowned brilliant

hummingbird 10violet sabrewing

hummingbird 215

Iiguanas 158, 271, 393,

492, 492immigration 518indigenous peoples 183,

467Bribrí 167, 183, 407, 431,

467, 478Brunka (Boruca) 373,

422-3Cabécar 141, 183, 407,

422, 431, 467Chorotega 315-16, 467Guaymí 426Kèköldi 141, 167, 183Maleku 271-2, 274Ngöbe 426, 441

indigenous reserves Reserva Indígena Boruca

422-3Reserva Indígena

Guaymí de Osa 441insurance 524-5internet access 511internet resources 23, 466,

500, 504Isla Cabuya 342Isla Damas 376Isla del Coco 439-40Isla Gigante 333Isla Guayabo 333-4Isla Los Pájaros 333-4Isla Negritos 333-4Isla San Lucas 333Isla Tortuga 334Islita 328-9itineraries 33-9, 33, 34,

35, 37, 38-9San José 67

JJacó 360-9, 361, 40jaguars 144, 158, 173, 218,

271, 413, 431, 459, 497, 497

Juntas de Abangares 217-18

Kkayaking 27, 46-7, see also

canoeing, white-water rafting

Bahía Drake 452Dominical 397Jacó 363La Fortuna 252La Virgen 280Manuel Antonio Village

388

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 393

Parque Nacional Tortuguero 158

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí 283

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú 335

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 191

Río Sarapiquí 280, 283-5Turrialba 136

Kèköldi people 141, 167, 183kitesurfing 46

Bahía Salinas 243Laguna de Arenal 263

LLa Casona 238La Cruz 241-2La Fortuna 248-59, 249,

250La Garita 114-15La Palma 441La Virgen 279-81Laguna de Arenal 263-8lakes, see rivers & lakeslanguage 22, 25, 527-31language courses 511

Central Valley 125Jacó 363Monteverde 199, 202Montezuma 338Orosi 131Playa Sámara 324Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 178San José 75Tamarindo 305

leaf-cutter ants 498legal matters 511-12lesbian travelers 509-10

Manuel Antonio 385San José 92

Liberia 226-31, 228-9literature 479, see also booksloggerhead turtles 155,

156, 191Los Chiles 269-71

Mmacaws

great green 158, 279, 329

scarlet 45, 357, 13, 45, 386, 486, 490

Mal País 14, 344-8, 14, 306malaria 510

Maleku people 271-2, 274Maleku sites 282mangroves 450, 485-6manta rays 494, 494Manuel Antonio area

379-85, 380Manuel Antonio Village

388-9Manzanillo 188-90, 21maps 512-13markets 56, see also

shoppingFeria Verde de Aranjuez

97La Casona 98Mercado Artesanal (San

José) 98Mercado Borbón 73Mercado Central Annex

(San José) 73Mercado Central

(Cartago) 128Mercado Central (San

José) 72-3Mata de Limón 356Matapalo 395measures 514mobile phones 22, 515Moín 152money 22, 25, 508, 513monkeys 389, 392, 497

howler monkeys 155, 175, 203, 213, 234, 248, 259, 271, 322, 332, 387, 393, 433, 497

squirrel monkeys 489white-faced capuchins

497, 496Monteverde 195-212,

196-7Monteverde Cloud Forest,

see Bosque Nuboso Monteverde

Montezuma 12, 336-42, 337, 12

Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo 138

mosquitoes 369motorcycle travel 521,

523-5mountain biking 49-50Muelle de San Carlos 275Museo de Arte y Diseño

Contemporáneo 70Museo de Jade 67Museo de Oro

Precolombino y Numismática 66

Museo Nacional de Costa Rica 67

540

INDEX M

-P

museums & galleriescacao museum 174Casa de la Cultura

(Heredia) 122Casa de la Cultura

(Puntarenas) 353Ecomuseo de las Minas

de Abangares 217Galería Nacional 73Museo de Arte

Costarricense 73-4Museo de Arte y Diseño

Contemporáneo 70Museo de Ciencias

Naturales La Salle 74Museo de Cultura

Popular 124Museo de Guanacaste

227Museo de Insectos 74Museo de Jade 26, 67Museo de los Niños 73Museo de Oro

Precolombino y Numismática 66

Museo de San José Orosi 131

Museo Histórico Marino 353

Museo Juan Santamaría 108

Museo Nacional de Costa Rica 67, 91

Studio of Fran Vázquez 192

TEOR/éTica 71music 479

Nnational parks & reserves

141, 195, 248, 291, 352, 410, 499-500, see also cloud forests, parks & gardens

Área de Conservación Guanacaste 237-40

Barra del Colorado 166-7Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 11, 212-16, 28, 214, 233, 503

Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe 450-1

Parque Nacional Barra Honda 316-17

Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo 144-5

Parque Nacional Cahuita 175-6

Parque Nacional Carara 356-8

Parque Nacional Chirripó 16, 419-22, 16

Parque Nacional Corcovado 13, 458-62, 459, 13, 364, 428

Parque Nacional Guanacaste 239

Parque Nacional Isla del Coco 439-40

Parque Nacional Juan Castro Blanco 119

Parque Nacional Los Quetzales 413-14

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 15, 389-94, 15, 390

Parque Nacional Marino Ballena 403-4, 386, 387

Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste 301

Parque Nacional Palo Verde 224-6

Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas 434-5

Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja 234-7

Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte 133

Parque Nacional Tortuguero 13, 154-9, 155, 13, 47

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal 259-61

Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú 129-30

Parque Nacional Volcán Poás 112-14

Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba 139

Refu gio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional 322-3

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Camaronal 328

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 271-2

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú 335

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 190-1, 483

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Golfito 432

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Maquenque 279

Reserva Biológica Dúrika 422

Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere 167

Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño 457-62

Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal 226

Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce 440-2

Reserva Indígena Boruca 422-3

Reserva Indígena Guaymí de Osa 441

Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco 343-4

Reserva Santa Elena 203Neily 424-5newspapers 466Ngöbe people 426, 441Nicaragua

border crossings 163, 242, 270, 520

relations with 477Nicoya 315-16Nicuesa, Diego de 468,

469North, Oliver 474Nosara 17, 307, 318-22, 17Nuevo Arenal 265-6

Oocelots 133, 144, 158, 218,

273, 334, 431, 434, 459Ojochal 404-6ojoche 405opening hours 513orcas 393orchids 214, 214Orosi 131-2

PPacific Coast 62, 349-406,

350-1climate 349food 349highlights 350-1

Palmar 424Paquera 334-5Paraíso 130-1Parismina 153-4parks & gardens, see

also cloud forests, national parks & reserves

Catie 135-6Finca Cántaros 427Finca La Isla 177Frog’s Heaven 286Heliconia Island 286

Herrera Gardens & Con-servation Project 442

INBioparque 123Jardín Botánico Else

Kientzler 117Jardín de Orquídeas 197Jardín Pura Vida 359La Paz Waterfall Gardens

113Lankester Gardens 130Mike’s Jungle Butterfly

Farm 332Montezuma Gardens 337Paradise Tropical Garden

425Parque Central (Alajuela)

108Parque Central (Liberia)

227Parque Central (San

José) 72Parque España 70Parque Francisco

Alvarado 118Parque Metropolitano La

Sabana 73Parque Morazán 70-1Parque Vargas (Puerto

Limón) 149Spirogyra Jardín de

Mariposas 73Tree of Life 168-9Wilson Botanical Garden

425-6Parque Internacional La

Amistad 430-2Parque Nacional Barra

Honda 316-17Parque Nacional Braulio

Carrillo 144-5Parque Nacional Cahuita

175-6, 175Parque Nacional Carara

356-8Parque Nacional Chirripó

16, 419-22, 16Parque Nacional Corcovado

13, 458-62, 459, 13, 364, 428

Parque Nacional Isla del Coco 439-40

Parque Nacional Los Quetzales 413-14

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio 15, 389-94, 15, 390

Parque Nacional Marino Ballena 403-4, 386, 387

Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas 434-5

Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja 234-7

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

541IN

DEX P- S

Parque Nacional Tortuguero 13, 154-9, 155, 13, 47, 165

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal 259-61

Parque Nacional Volcán Poás 112-14

Parrita 372-3Paso Canoas 425passports 518Pavones 437-40Península de Nicoya 61,

287-348, 298accommodations 287climate 287food 287highlights 288, 288-9

Península de Osa 62, 407, 440-62, 408-9

accommodations 407climate 407highlights 408

photography 514planning

budgeting 23calendar of events 30-2children, travel with 51-4Costa Rica basics 22-3Costa Rica’s regions

60-2internet resources 23itineraries 33-9, 33, 34,

35, 37, 38-9repeat visitors 26travel seasons 22, 30-2

plants 484-6Playa Avellanas 306, 312-13Playa Brasilito 300Playa Carrillo 298, 327-8,

298Playa Cativo 435Playa Chiquita 185-8Playa Cocles 185-8Playa Coyote 298, 329,

332-3Playa del Coco 290-3Playa Esterillos 371-2Playa Flamingo 297Playa Grande 301-3, 306,

307, 330Playa Guiones 318, 319-20Playa Hermosa 293-5, 370-1Playa Herradura 359-60Playa Junquillal 298, 313-14Playa Naranjo 333Playa Negra 306, 312-13Playa Nicuesa 435Playa Ocotal 295Playa Pan de Azúcar 297,

298

Playa Pochote 335-6Playa Sámara 19, 323-

7, 18Playa San Josecito 435Playa San Miguel 298, 329,

332-3Playa Tamarindo 303-11,

304, 331Playa Tambor 335-6plazas

Parque Central (San Ramón) 120

Parque Juan Santamaría 108-9

Plaza de la Cultura 66Plaza de la Democracia

67-70politics 464-6population 465post 514pre-Columbian sites,

see archaeological sitesprostitution 512public holidays 514Puerto Caldera 356Puerto Jiménez 442-6,

443Puerto Limón 149-52, 150Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí

283-5Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

176-84, 178-9, 164Punta Uva 185-8Punta Uvita 403-4Puntarenas 353-6punto guanacasteco 213pygmy owl 44

QQuakers 204, 215Quepos 373-9, 374quetzals 19, 215, 18, 491

Rradio 466rainforests 484-5refuges, see national parks

& reserves, wildlife reserves

Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional 322-3

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 271-2

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú 335

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 190-1, 164, 483

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Golfito 432

religion 465reptiles 492-3Reserva Biológica Bosque

Nuboso Monteverde 11, 212-16, 28, 214, 233, 503

Reserva Biológica Dúrika 422

Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño 457-8

Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce 440-2

Reserva Indígena Boruca 422-3

Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco 343-4

Reserva Santa Elena 203, 214

reserves, see indigenous reserves, national parks & reserves

resplendent quetzals 19, 215, 18, 491

Río Nuevo 441Rio Pacuare 135Río San Juan Saga 465-6rivers & lakes

Lago de Cachí 133Laguna Botos 113Laguna de Arenal area

263-8Pozo Verde 119Rio Pacuare 135Río Savegre 411, 412, 42

rodeos 213Rosario 115ruins, see archaeological

sites

Ssafety 514-15

hitchhiking 525mosquitoes 369riptides 311, 514-15road 524, 525San José 99

San Carlos 276-7San Gerardo de Dota 411-13San Gerardo de Rivas

417-19San Isidro de El General

415-17, 415San José 16, 60, 64-104,

65, 68-9, 72-3, 76-7, 79, 83, 17

accommodations 64, 77-85

activities 75children, travel with 71

climate 64courses 75drinking & nightlife 92-5emergencies 99entertainment 95-7festivals & events 76-7food 64, 85-92highlights 65itineraries 67medical services 99shopping 97-8sights 66-74tourist information 99tours 75-6travel seasons 64travel to/from 100-3travel within 103-4

San Luis 268San Miguel 278San Rafael de Guatuso

274-5San Ramón 120-1San Vito 426-7Sandinistas 474Santa Cruz 314-15Santa Elena 195-212, 196-7Santa María 411Santa Rosa 237Santa Teresa 307, 344-8Sarapiquí Valley 20, 278-86Sarchí 117-18scams 103, 523scarlet macaws 45, 357,

13, 486sex trade 512sharks 494Shiroles 183shopping 515, see also

markets, individual locations

Sierpe 449-50Siquirres 147-9Sixaola 192Sloth Sanctuary of Costa

Rica 169sloths 158, 166, 175, 199,

203, 213, 248, 271, 283, 343, 357, 387, 389, 392, 393, 436, 459, 447, 487, 497, 486, 200, 387, 496

snakes 492, 493snorkeling, see diving &

snorkelingsoccer 478spas 29, see also hot

springsJacó 363Manuel Antonio area 379

spiders 498

542

INDEX S

-W

sportfishing, see fishingsports 478, see also

individual sportssurfing 14, 27, 42-4, 306-7,

478, 43, 14Área de Conservación

Guanacaste 239Boca Barranca 356Dominical 397El Segundo 356Jacó 362, 40Mal País 307, 344-5, 306Manuel Antonio 381Manuel Antonio Village

388Matapalo 395Montezuma 338Nosara 307, 318Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 404Pavones 437Playa Avellanas 306,

312-13Playa Carrillo 327Playa Cocles 185Playa Coyote 329, 332Playa Doña Ana 356Playa Esterillos 371-2Playa Grande 301-2, 306,

307, 330Playa Guiones 318,

319-20, 17Playa Hermosa 370Playa Junquillal 313-14Playa los Cedros 342Playa Negra 306, 312-13Playa Sámara 324Playa San Miguel 329,

332Playa Tamarindo 303-4,

331Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 177Salsa Brava 176, 14Santa Teresa 307, 344-5

sustainable travel 502-4swimming, see also hot

springsBahía Drake 451Jacó 362Ojo de Agua Springs 109Parismina 153Parque Nacional Cahuita

175Parque Nacional Manuel

Antonio 392-3

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 177

Ttarantulas 498Tárcoles 358-9taxes 520taxis 525, 526Teatro Nacional 66-7, 91telephone services 22, 515theaters 66-7, 72, 96thermal springs, see hot

springsTicos 477Tilarán 268-9time 22, 515tipping 25, 513toilets 515topes 213Tortuguero 159-63toucans 133, 138, 144, 148,

166, 167, 169, 177, 186, 198, 225, 271, 280, 387, 491, 490

tourist information 516tours

Bahía Drake 453Barva 124Bosque Nuboso

Monteverde 216Cabo Matapalo 447Cahuita 169Dominical 397El Castillo 262Isla Tortuga 334Jacó 363La Fortuna 252-3Las Juntas de Abangares

217Los Chiles 269-70Monteverde 202-3Montezuma 338Parismina 153Parque Nacional

Corcovado 461Parque Nacional Isla del

Coco 440Parque Nacional Manuel

Antonio 393Parque Nacional Rincón

de la Vieja 235Parque Nacional Volcán

Irazú 129Playa Carrillo 327Playa Cocles 185Playa Tamarindo 308Puerto Jiménez 442-4Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 178-9Puntarenas 353-4

Quepos 375Refugio Nacional de

Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 272

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 191

San Isidro de El General 415

San José 75-6Santa Elena 202-3Tárcoles 359Tortuguero 159-60Turrialba 136Uvita 402Volcán Arenal 252-3

traditional medicine 428travel to/from Costa Rica

518-21travel within Costa Rica

521-6traveler’s checks 513trekking, see hikingTronadora 268Turrialba 135-8turtles 154, 156-7, 157

books 499leatherback turtles 494loggerhead turtles 155,

156, 191olive ridley turtles 494volunteering 153, 157,

159, 176turtle-watching

Área de Conservación Guanacaste 238

Parismina 153Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 404Parque Nacional

Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste 301

Parque Nacional Tortuguero 155-8

Playa Junquillal 313-14Refugio Nacional de

Fauna Silvestre Ostional 322-3

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Camaronal 328

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 191

typhoid 511

UUjarrás 134United Fruit Company

148, 473

Upala 273-4Uvita 401-3

Vvacations 514Valle de Dota 411Valle de Orosi 130-4vegetarian travelers 59Venado Caves 276Venecia 277vipers 493, 493visas 22, 516Volcán Arenal 11, 259-61,

11, 201, 481Volcán Miravalles 223-4volcanoes 260

Volcán Arenal 11, 259-61, 11, 201, 481

Volcán Barva 144-5Volcán Irazú 129-30Volcán Miravalles 223-4Volcán Platanar 119Volcán Poás 113, 500Volcán Porvenir 119Volcán Rincón de la Vieja

234-7Volcán Turrialba 139

Volcán Poás 113, 500volunteering 516-17

Montezuma 338Parque Nacional Braulio

Carrillo 144Profelis 334Proyecto Asis 277San José 78turtles 153, 157, 159, 176

WWalker, William 470, 471walking, see hikingwaterfalls

Catarata Manantial de Agua Viva 359

Centro Turístico Cataratas Nauyaca 396

El Chorro 339La Catarata de la

Fortuna 249-51La Catarata de la

Paz 113Las Cataratas de Los

Chorros 116Llanos de Cortés 225,

232Montezuma 336-7

weather 22, 30-2, 508weights 514whale sharks 494

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

543IN

DEX W-Z

whales 494, 495humpback 243, 295,

393, 401, 403, 404, 453, 494

killer 393whale-watching

Bahía Drake 453Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 404Playa Pochote 335-6Playa Tambor 335-6Quepos 375

white-faced capuchins 497, 496

white-water rafting 12, 27, 46-7, see also canoeing, kayaking

Cañas 219Central Valley 136Dominical 397La Fortuna 252La Virgen 280Orosi 131Parque Nacional Manuel

Antonio 393Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí

283Puerto Viejo de

Talamanca 178Quepos 374-5Río Pacuare 136, 28Río Reventazón 136Río Sarapiquí 280, 283-5Turrialba 136

wildcats 334jaguars 144, 158, 173,

218, 271, 413, 431, 459, 497, 497

ocelots 133, 144, 158, 218, 273, 334, 431, 434, 459

wildlife reserves, see also zoos

Africa Mía 227Aiko-logi 177El Castillo-Arenal

Butterfly Conservatory 261

Fundación Santuario Silvestre de Osa 432-3

Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge 395-6

Jaguar Centro de Rescate 185

La Ensenada Lodge & Wildlife Refuge 219

La Selva 327Manuel Antonio Nature

Park & Wildlife Refuge 379

Motmot Jungle 264Profelis 334Rancho La Merced

National Wildlife Refuge 402

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Bahía Junquillal 240-1

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Maquenque 279

Reserva Biológica Oro Verde 402

Santuario de Mariposas Aguas Silvestres 280

Sloth Sanctuary of Costa Rica 169

wildlife-watching 15, 27-8, 44-6, 269, 487-8, see also dolphin-watching, turtle-watching

Área de Conservación Guanacaste 238

Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 213

Nature Pavilion 280Parque Internacional La

Amistad 431Parque Nacional Barra

Honda 317Parque Nacional Braulio

Carrillo 144Parque Nacional Carara

357Parque Nacional Chirripó

420Parque Nacional

Corcovado 458-9Parque Nacional Isla del

Coco 440Parque Nacional Manuel

Antonio 393Parque Nacional Marino

Ballena 404Parque Nacional

Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte 133

Parque Nacional Tortuguero 158

Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere 167

Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal 226

Wilson Botanical Garden 425-6

windsurfing 46, 263

women in Costa Rica 478women travelers 517work 517

Yyoga

Dominical 397Mal País 345Montezuma 338Nosara 319Pavones 437Playa Hermosa 370Playa Tamarindo 305Santa Teresa 345

Yorkín 183

ZZancudo 436-7Zarcero 118zip lining 13, 13zoos, see also wildlife

reservesArenal EcoZoo 261Arenal Natura 248Bat Jungle 197Butterfly Garden 195Ecocentro Danaus 248Las Pumas 218Monteverde Theme Park

195-7Parque Reptilandia 396-7Serpentarium 197Snake Garden 280World of Snakes 116Zoo Ave 115

544

NO

TES

545N

OTES

546

NO

TES

547N

OTES

548

NO

TES

549N

OTES

550

NO

TES

551

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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