403403

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Jill Allegretti, Kate Allen, Karin Altherr, Harris Anderson, Suzanne Anderson, Anca Ansink, Ardit Arianna, Harriet Astley B Hen‑ner Becker, Alan Bigelow, Rinske Bloemendal, Helen Bonser, Anthony Branchini C John Caselli, Freya Chapman‑Amey, Varvara Chinenova, Andreas Constandinos, Iara Cury D Katie Dominy, Edward Douglas, Daniel Ducai E Tobias Engel, Lars Eriksson F Martin Fluri G Anni Gaine, Jon Garrood, Marcie Gitlin, Raquel Gómez, Jon Gorroño, John Gros, Bernat Gual‑Ricart H Bruno Haine, Matthew Harris, James Harrison, Kevin Hoang, Charlotte Hoei, Petricia Hor‑shauge J Géraldine Jacquinot, Lies Jansen, Sarah Johns, Alex Jones, Nicholas Jordan K Saurav Kapur, Robert Keyes, Kay Kindig, Ico Kloppenburg, Tashi Klose, Nydia Köhne L Derek Larney, Amalie Larsen, Line Laurid‑sen, Kathrine Lausten, Ben Leeuwenburgh, Matilda Lundborg, Viktoria Lundborg, Lisa Lyons M Leslie Marshall, Luigi Martire, Margit McLaughlin, Marcos Mendonca, Aishling Middelburg, Gregory Mieden, Nigel Moss P Gary Parkinson, Noam Pasa,

John Patterson, Nadia Persaud, Roger Phillips, Christopher Psomadellis Q Aston Quin R Michael Rosebaugh S Olof Säll, Henrik Simonsen, Barney Smith, Pat Smith, Floortje Snels, Morten Starostka, Jezz Sterling, Tom Stuart, Peter Svedberg & Caroline Svedberg‑ Wibling T Nathan Tift, Michael Turner, William Turner V Stefano Vallarino, Silke Van Damme, Dieuwke van der Hoeven, Cecile van Noppen, Bart Van Renterghem, Anne‑ Sophie Van Wesemael, Michele Volpi, Edwin Vossen, Dano Vukicevich W Sam Walton, Alice Wauchope, Pamela Willett Y Vincent Yu Z Sarah Zuniga

AUTHOR THANKS Bradley MayhewThanks to Niraj and Rajesh at Himalayan En‑counters and to Mukhiya and Maya Gurung. Cheers to Steve Webster and thanks to Phurba Gyaljen Sherpa for helping me around the Khumbu. Thanks to my wife Kelli for joining me in Kathmandu. Thanks also to Wanda Vivequin for hotel and trekking recommendations and Kim for trekking help.

Lindsay BrownI am very grateful for the guidance of Stan Armington, Nepal trekking pioneer and author.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well‑travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award‑winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

404

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

I also thank Durga Bandari, Dawa Lama (Big), Dawa Lama (Small), Ram Roka, Narendra Lama (ACAP), Jack Baucher, DB Chaudhary, Ram Din, Mohan Aryal, Man Mohan Shrestha, fellow authors Bradley Mayhew and Stuart Butler, and life and trav‑elling companion Jenny Fegent.

Stuart ButlerFirst and foremost I must, once again, thank my wife, Heather, and children Jake and Grace for their patience with this long pro‑ject which involved so much time up in the mountains and out of touch. In Nepal huge thanks to Thiley Lama, Ghyalbu Tamang for a memorable ascent of Yala Peak, Dheeraj Chaudhary for finding me a couple of ele‑phants at short notice, Prakash Neupane for his knowledge of Nepalese wildlife. Thank you also to Dinesh Chaudhary for rafting informa‑tion and Kishor at Annapurna Mountain Bike Adventures. Thank you also to Rama for good driving in the Terai, all the staff at the Hotel Himal Ganesh in Kathmandu for hospitality and my co‑author, Bradley Mayhew, for all his help. Finally, thanks to Ben Clift and John Gray for accompanying me on the mountain trails, but clearly Ben it would be you who would be eaten by a jaguar first….

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘UpdatedWorld Map of the Köppen‑Geiger ClimateClassification’, Hydrology and Earth SystemSciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Prayer wheel, Bodhnath Stupa, Bodhnath (Boudha), John Harper / Corbis ©.

POST-EARTHQUAKE UPDATE

Special thanks are due to the journal‑ists and Nepal experts who helped to update our content following the 2015 earthquakes, specifically: Suraj Shakya, Ajay Narsingh Rana, Nabin Baral, Rabik Upadhayay, Abhi Shrestha, Niraj Shrestha, Robin from Rural Heritage, Tony Jones from Himalayan Encounters and Jennifer Berry from Kathmandu Inside Out.

THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Nepal guidebook was researched and written by Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown and Stuart Butler. The 9th edition was written by Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown and Trent Holden, and the 8th was written by Bradley, Trent and Joe Bindloss. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Joe BindlossProduct Editors Elizabeth Jones, Kate MathewsSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Wendy WrightAssisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Sarah Billington, Katie Connolly, Bruce Evans, Kate Evans, Samantha Forge, Victoria Harrison, Catherine Naghten,

Charlotte Orr, Victoria Smith, Luna SooAssisting Cartographers Gabriel Lindquist, Alison Lyall Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Shahara Ahmed, Sasha Baskett, Kate Chap‑man, Ryan Evans, James Hardy, Kate James, Chris Love, Virginia Moreno, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Diana Saeng‑kham, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson, Samantha Tyson, Tracy Whitmey, Juan Winata

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 405

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

4WD safaris 249, 2732001 royal massacre 79,

333, 3342015 earthquakes 4-5, 44,

54, 322, 351Bhaktapur 153Bungamati 178Gorkha 199Kathmandu 63, 80landslides 317Langtang region 194-5Mt Everest 358Pashupatinath 125Patan 137Pokhara 207trekking trail damage 291

AAbu Khaireni 198accommodation 22, 368-9,

see also individual locations

language 397activities 23-6, 369, see

also individual activities, individual locations, outdoor activities

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) 41, 42, 394-5

adventure sports, see outdoor activities

AIDS 392air travel 382-4, 387-8

to/from Nepal 382-4within Nepal 293, 387-8,

387airlines 382-3, 387-8alcoholic drinks 372altitude 42altitude sickness (AMS) 41,

42, 394-5amoebic dysentery 393animal sacrifices 347

animals 358-61, see also individual genera

Annapurna II 301Annapurna Base Camp 307Annapurna Circuit Trek 12,

30, 31, 232, 299-301, 304-6, 302-3, 12, 37

Annapurna Conservation Area Project permits 225, 231

Annapurna Panorama Trek 308, 302

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 31, 306-7, 302-3

antiques 369-70architecture 350-3Arniko Hwy 191-4art 78, 281, 352, 353art galleries

National Art Gallery (Bhaktapur) 153, 155

National Birendra Art Gallery 80

Siddhartha Art Gallery 80Aryabhanjyang 266Asan Tole 76Ashoka, Emperor 136Ashoka stupas 136Ashokan Pillar 259ATMs 374autorickshaws 389avalanches 307

BBachhauli 249bagh chal 337Baglung 231Bagnaskot 266Bahini River 275Bahun people 341-2Bahundanda 300Bamboo 307Bandipur 201-5, 203Banepa 185-6Banke National Park 362,

363Banthanti 306

banyan trees 361Bardia National Park 253,

272-5, 362bargaining 374Bat Cave 230bathrooms 379Baugha Gumha 266Bayeli 308begging 57, 95Begnas Tal 230Beni 231-2Beninghat 198Benkar 296Besi Sahar 300Bhairawa 256-8Bhaireni 198Bhaktapur 12, 152-67, 154,

158, 160, 12accommodation 162,

164-5activities 161drinking 166earthquake damage 153festivals & events 162food 165-6history 152ponds 156shopping 166sights 153, 155-61travel to/from 167walking tours 162-3, 163

Bharatpur 241-2Bhedetar 285Bhimsen Tower 80Bhote Kosi 317Bhulbule 300Bijayapur 285Biratnagar 284birds 272, 360-1, see also

individual generabirdwatching

Ghodaghodi Tal 275Himalayan Raptor Centre

215Koshi Tappu Wildlife

Reserve 283-4Lumbini 262

Mai Pokhari 287Pulchowki Mountain 180-1

Birethanti 306Birganj 277-9Bis Hajaar Tal 245, 249Bisket Jatra 23, 161blue sheep 359boating 211Bode 168Bodhnath (Boudha) 13, 128-

34, 129, 13books 322

architecture 351culture 337, 339, 342health 391-2history 326, 328, 331,

332, 333literature 355plants 361trekking 36wildlife 359, 360

border crossingsIndia border crossings

240, 384-5India (via Belahiya)

257, 385India (via Birganj) 279,

385India (via Dhangadhi)

276, 385India (via Kakarbhitta)

288, 385India (via Mahendranagar)

276, 385India (via Nepalganj)

270, 385Tibet border crossings

193, 385-6Tibet (via Kodari) 193,

386travel restrictions 386

Borderlands Resort 192Bragha 301Brahma 346Buddha, the 14, 258-9, 264,

348-9Buddhism 22, 130, 259,

348-9, 352-3

406

IND

EX B-G

budget 19Budhanilkantha 135-6, 311,

313, 15Bungamati 178bungee jumping 52, 85,

192, 193, 211, 51bus travel 388business hours 375Butwal 264-5

Ccanoeing 249, see also

kayaking, raftingcanyoning 52, 83, 85, 192car travel

to/from Nepal 386within Nepal 388-9

carpets 354casinos 108caves

Bat Cave 230Gupteshwor Mahadev

Cave 211Guru Rinpoche Cave 176Mahendra Gufa 230Manjushree Cave 175Milarepa 304Siddha Gufa 202

caving 52, 203cell phones 378-9Chabahil 127-8Chame 301Chamje 301Changu Narayan Temple

168-70, 168Chapagaon 179Cheres 199Chhairo 233Chhetri people 341-2Chhomrong 307Chhukung 297-8Chhyongkhar 305children, travel with 93,

369Chimang 305China, relations with

133, 323Chistibang 308Chitwan National Park 13,

242-56, 244-5, 250, 13, 21

accommodation 249-54activities 247-9elephant safaris 247-8food 254-5

geography 245history 244-5plants 246safety 246, 253shopping 255sights 246-7travel seasons 246travel to/from 255-6travel within 256wildlife 243, 246

Cho La 299Chobar 174-5Chumoa 296Chure Hills 357cinema 354-5climate 18, 23-6, see also

individual regionsclimate change 365, 383climbing 52, 51

Bandipur 203Kathmandu 83, 85Nagarkot 181

conservation areas, see national parks & conservation areas, wildlife reserves

consulates 370-1courses 85, 131, 134, 174,

373, see also meditation centres, yoga

cranes 260-1credit cards 374-5crocodiles 272, 359culture 17, 336-43currency 374customs regulations

369-70cycle-rickshaws 389cycling 388, see also

mountain bikingChitwan region 249Kathmandu 83, 85Pokhara 211tours 44

cyclospora 393

DDajori La 314Dakshinkali 177Daman 269, 316Danaque 301dance 353-4Dasain 25, 167, 376deer 359deforestation 364demonstrations & strikes

376-7Devdaha 264

Devi Tal 245Devi’s Falls 209Dhampus 306Dhanushadham 281Dharan 285Dharapani 301Dhaulagiri 305Dhukur Pokhari 301Dhulikhel 186-9, 188Dhumba Tal 235, 305diarrhoea 41, 393Dingboche 297disabilities, travellers with

379-80discounts 377Doban 307Dollu 177-8dolphins 359donations 57, 95drinking & nightlife, see

individual locationsdrinks 372

language 397drugs 373-4Duglha 298Dumre 205Durbar Square (Bhaktapur)

153, 155-7, 158Durbar Square

(Kathmandu) 63, 66-7, 70-6, 73, 10-11

earthquake damage 66Durbar Square (Nuwakot)

194Durbar Square (Patan)

137-43, 142Dzonglha 299Dzongsam 234-5, 305

Eearthquakes 4-5, 322, 357,

see also 2015 earthquakes

economy 322-3, 331, 337electricity 97, 370, 377elephants 243, 253, 275,

359bathing 248breeding centres 246-7,

272, 273ethics of commercial

use 247safaris 13, 247-8, 273,

283, 13embassies 370-1emergencies 19, 392

language 397environmental issues

247, 300, 361, 364-6, 365, 383

erotic art 78, 153, 345etiquette 45, 55, 130events, see festivals &

eventsEverest Base Camp 298Everest Base Camp Trek 11,

31, 292-9, 294, 11exchange rates 19exchanging money 374

Ffestivals & events 15, 23-6,

102, 379, see also individual locations

Bisket Jatra 23, 161Buddha Jayanti 262Dasain 167, 376Deepawali 26, 24Holi 282Gadhimai 347Indra Jatra 25, 72, 87, 15Losar 131, 215Maha Ganga Aarati 282Mani Rimdu 296Phewa Festival 215Rato Machhendranath

146Rupa Devi 262Seto Machhendranath 76Sita Bibaha Panchami

282Tihar 282

fever 393films 322, 354-5fishing 273flag 327flowers 361food 371-2, see also

individual locationsfestival foods 102juju dhau 166language 397momos 16, 16Nepali cuisine 101Newari cuisine 101

fossils 268four-wheel-drive safaris

249, 273Freak St 98Friendship Bridge 193

Ggalleries, see art galleries,

museumsgames 337Ganesh 346-7Gangapurna glacier 304Ganges River dolphins 359garbage & waste 40

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

407IN

DEX G

-K Garden of Dreams 79Gautama, Siddhartha

258-9, 264, 325, 348-9birthplace 14, 259

gay travellers 372-3gem scams 377-8geography 245-6, 356-8geology 268, 356Ghachok Trek 7-8, 308,

302Ghandruk Loop Trek 308,

302Ghansal 266Gharab Dzong 235gharial 243, 246Ghasa 233, 306Ghermu 301Ghodaghodi Tal 275Ghorbanda 266Ghorepani 306Ghyaru 301giardiasis 393-4goats 359Godavari 179-80Gokarna Forest 171-2Gokarna Mahadev 170-1,

171Gokyo Ri 299, 7Gokyo Valley 299Golden Gate 155Golden Temple (Kwa Bahal)

143, 21golf 171gompas, see monasteriesGorak Shep 298Gorkha 199-201, 200Gorkha Durbar 199-200Gorkhekot 266Great Himalayan Trail 298Gurkha people 341Gurkha soldiers 218, 341Gurung people 340-1Gyu La 313-14

HHanuman 347Hanuman Dhoka 74-6Hanuman Ghat 157Harnari 249health 390-5

books 391-2insurance 42, 373, 390language 397-8medical kit checklist 391services 392trekking 40-2vaccinations 390-1websites 391

hepatitis 392Hetauda 268-9, 316Hile 286Himal Qu (Naya Pul) 307Himalaya, the 22, 357, 365Himalayan Raptor Centre

215Hinduism 22, 141, 177, 190,

344-7Hinko 307history 324-35

abolition of monarchy 334-5

Kirati era 324Licchavi era 325Malla era 325-7Maoist rebellion 331-2pro-democracy protests

330-1Rana era 328-9royal massacre 79,

333, 334Shah dynasty 327-8,

329-30Thakuri era 325WWI & WWII 329

HIV 392Holi 23, 282holidays 376, 379Hongde 301horse riding 211hot springs 232, 306Hugdi 198human trafficking 342Hyangja 307-8hydroelectricity 365

IIce Lake 304Ichangu Narayan 134Ilam 286-7Imja Tse (Island Peak) 297immigration 380-1, 382Indian visas 380Indra Chowk 77Indra Jatra 25, 72, 87, 15insurance 42, 373, 389,

390International Mountain

Museum 209internet access 373internet resources 19

arts 354environmental issues

364, 365government travel advice

378health 391music 353

trekking 38-9volunteering 55-6wildlife conservation 364

Islam 349Island Peak (Imja Tse) 297itineraries 27-30, see also

individual locationsItum Bahal 78

JJagat 301Janakpur 279-82, 280Jarsingpouwa 315Jharkot 305Jhinu Danda 307Jomsom 234-5, 305Jorsale 296Jumla 271jungle walks 248

KKagbeni 236, 305Kakani 195, 311Kakarbhitta (Kakarvitta)

287-8Kala Pattar 298Kali 177Kali Gandaki 232, 318Kande 231Kanigaon 301Kanyam Tea Gardens 287Kapilavastu 264Karnali 319Karte 301Kathmandu 11, 59, 62-117,

64-5, 68-9, 73, 88-9, 10-11

accommodation 62, 87, 90-100

activities 82-3, 85addresses 71children, travel with 93climate 61courses 85day trips 116, 117-20,

124-31drinking & nightlife 107-8earthquake damage 4,

63, 66, 80emergencies 111entertainment 108-9festivals & events 86-7food 62, 100-7highlights 64-5history 63itineraries 74medical services 111-12orientation 71

safety 66, 112self-catering 107shopping 109-11sights 63, 66-7, 70-80, 82tours 85-6travel seasons 62travel to/from 113-15travel within 115-17walking tours 77, 80-1,

84, 81, 84Kathmandu Valley 15, 59,

121-95, 122accommodation 121climate 121earthquake damage

4, 125, 137, 153, 178, 194-5

highlights 122hiking 121history 123itineraries 27safety 123temples 124travel seasons 121travel within 123-4

Kaudelake 266Kavre 186kayaking 50, 52, 316-20,

312Bhote Kosi 317Kali Gandaki 318Karnali 319Kathmandu 83Marsyangdi 318-19Pokhara 211-12safety 317Seti Khola 318Sun Kosi 317, 319-20Tamur 320Trisuli River 316-17

Khaptad Baba Ashram 277Khayer Tal 308Khingar 305Khobang 305Khokana 178-9Khotro 301Khumjung 296Khunde 296Kirtipur 173-4Kodari 193-4Kokhethati 305Kongma La 299Kopan Monastery 134Koshi Tappu Wildlife

Reserve 283-5Koto 301Kuldi 307Kumari Devi 86Kuwa 281

408

IND

EX L-N

LLakuri Bhanjyang 315Lami Tal 245Landruk 306landslides 44Langtang region 194-5, 363language 18, 396-402

courses 373Lapsiphedi 315Larjung 305Last Resort, The 52, 85,

192, 193, 51legal matters 373-4leopards 358-9lesbian travellers 372-3Letdar 304Lete 305Lili Bhir 301Limbu people 340lingam 345Lissanevitch, Boris 96literature 355, see also

booksLobuche 298Lobuche East 297Lohan Chowk 75Lokamani Pula Pagoda 262Lo La 314Lo Manthang 305Losar 131, 215Lubbhu 315Lukla 293, 295, 299Lumbini 14, 258-64,

260, 14

MMachhapuchhare 307Machhendranath 347Magar people 341magazines 377Mahabharat Range 60,

237-88, 357, 238-9accommodation 237climate 237earthquake damage 4food 237highlights 238-9travel seasons 237

Mahendra Gufa 230Mahendranagar 276-7Mai Pokhari 287Maithili people 280-1, 343malaria 392Malekhu 198

Manakamana 199Manang 301, 304Mani Rimdu 26, 296mani stones 349Marpha 234, 305Marsyangdi 318-19, 37massage 82-3, 181, 212Maya Devi Temple 258-9measures 377medical services 392meditation centres

Dhama Janami Vipassana Centre 262

Ganden Yiga Chopen Meditation Centre 213

Himalayan Buddhist Meditation Centre 83

Kagyu Institute of Buddhist Studies 174

Kopan Monastery 134Nepal Vipassana Centre

85Panditarama

International Vipassana Meditation Centre 261

Rangjung Yeshe Institute 131

Mera Peak 297, 51Mithila art 281mobile phones 378-9Mohankali Chowk 75-6momos 16, 16monasteries 130, 131, 352-3

Auspicious Pinnacle Dharma Centre of Dzongsar 176

Bragha 301Chhairo Gompa 233, 305Drölma Lhakhang 176Drubgyud Chöling

Gompa 261I Baha Bahi 145Jangchub Choeling

Gompa 212Kagchode Thubten

Sampheling Gompa 236

Ka-Nying Sheldrup Ling Gompa 131

Katsapterenga Gompa 305

Kopan Monastery 134Linh Son Monastery 262Liping Gompa 193Marpha 305Nagi Gompa 136Nangkartshang Gompa

297Neydo Tashi Choeling

177-8

O Sal Choling Godavari 179

Pangboche 296-7Praken Gompa 304Ralo Gompa 176Rigon Tashi Choeling 177Royal Thai Buddhist

Monastery 262Sakya Tharig Gompa 176Samtenling Gompa 234Shechen Gompa 131Sokyo Gompa 262Sri Lankan Monastery

262Sumdu Choeden Gompa

236Tengboche 296Thini Gompa 235Thrangu Tashi Yangtse

Monastery 187Uku Bahal 146Zhong Hua Chinese

Buddhist Monastery 261

money 19, 374-5moneychangers 374Monjo 296monkeys 360motorcycle travel

to/from Nepal 386within Nepal 388-9

mountain biking 43-5, 310, 311, 313-16, 312

Kathmandu to Pokhara 311, 313

Kathmandu Valley 314-15Muktinath to Pokhara

314Nagarkot 184-5Pokhara 211Pokhara to Sarangkot &

Naudanda 316Rajpath from Kathmandu

315-16Scar Road from

Kathmandu 311Upper Mustang

(Jomsom to Lo Mantang) 313-14

Mountain Botanical Gardens 269

mountaineering 295, 297Mt Everest 358, see also

Everest Base Camp TrekMugling 198Muktinath 235-6, 305Mul Chowk 75Mungji 301museums

Brass & Bronze Museum 160

Bungamati Culture Museum 178

Changu Museum 169-70Gorkha Museum 201Gurkha Museum 209Hanuman Dhoka 74-6International Mountain

Museum 209Kaiser Library 109Living Traditions

Museum 169Lumbini Museum 259Military Museum 120Mustang Eco Museum

234Narayanhiti Palace

Museum 79National Museum 109,

120Natural History Museum

109, 120Panauti Museum 190Panauti Peace Gallery

190-1Patan Museum 141Pokhara Regional

Museum 209Sherpa Culture Museum

296Taragaon Museum 131Tharu Cultural Museum

(Harnari) 249Tharu Cultural Museum

& Research Centre 249

Tilaurakot Museum 264Tribhuvan Museum

75, 109Woodcarving Museum

159-60music 353-4Mustang 309, 313-14

NNagarjun Hill 134-5Nagarkot 181-5, 182Namche Bazaar 296naming conventions 338Namobuddha 187, 315Nangathanti 306Narayan Shah, Prithvi 200Narayangarh 241-2Narsingha 141Nasal Chowk 75national parks &

conservation areas 362-3, see also wildlife reserves

Annapurna Conservation Area 299-309, 362, 302-3

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

409IN

DEX N

-S Banke National Park

362, 363Bardia National Park

253, 272-5, 362Chitwan National Park

13, 242-56, 244-5, 250, 13, 21

Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve 362

Kanchenjunga Conservation Area 309

Khaptad National Park 277, 362

Langtang National Park 363

Malaku-Barun National Park & Conservation Area 309, 363

Manaslu Conservation Area 309, 363, 47

Rara National Park 271, 363

Sagarmatha National Park 293, 296, 363, 7

Shey Phoksumdo National Park 363

Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park 134-5, 136, 363

Naudanda 316Navadurga dancers 167Naya Pul 231, 305Nepalganj 270-2Nepali calendar 379Nepali language 396-402Newari pagoda temples

350-1Newari people 340newspapers 377Ngawal 301Nuwakot 194Nyatapola Temple 157

Oopening hours 375Orsho 297outdoor activities 21-2,

43-52, 310-20, 369, see also individual activities

PPahar Zone 357painting 353palaces 83

Dhuni Pati 200Golden Gate 155-6Gorkha Durbar 199-200Hanuman Dhoka 74-6Keshar (Kaiser) Mahal

Palace 83

Narayanhiti Palace 79Ranighat Durbar 267-8Royal Palace (Patan)

140-1Singh (Singha)

Durbar 83Tansen Durbar 265-6

Paljorling 212Panauti 189-91Panchase Bhanjyang 308Panchase Danda 308Pangboche 296-7Pangga (Samduling) 314paragliding 52, 203, 213parahawking 215parks & gardens

Buddha Amideva Park 120

Garden of Dreams 79Godavari Kunda

Community Forest 179Manjushree Park 175Mountain Botanical

Gardens 269National Botanical

Gardens 179Naudhara Community

Forest 180Seti River Gorge 209

Parvati 346Pashupatinath 124-7, 126passports 380-1, 382Patan 17, 137-52, 138-9,

142, 17, 21accommodation 147, 149activities 146earthquake damage 137entertainment 150festivals & events

146, 147food 149-50history 137medical services 151shopping 150-1sights 137-43, 145-6travel to/from 151-2walking tours 144, 148,

144, 148Paungda Danda 301Phakding 295-6Phalyak 236Pharping 175-7Phedi 231, 306Pheriche 297Phewa Tal 207, 214, 14photography 375Phulang Kala 298Phulbari 186Phulgama 281

pipal trees 361planning

budgeting 19calendar of events 23-6children, travel with

369internet resources 19itineraries 27-30medical supplies 391Nepal basics 18-19Nepal’s regions 59-60outdoor activities 43-52travel seasons 18, 23-6trekking 31-42volunteering 53-6water purification 393

plants 361Pokhara 14, 60, 206-27,

208, 210, 217, 220, 14accommodation 206,

215-19activities 211-14climate 206, 207drinking & nightlife

223-4earthquake damage

4, 207entertainment 224festivals & events 215food 206, 219, 221-3highlights 208itineraries 209medical services 225safety 207shopping 224-5sights 207, 209-11tourist information 225tours 214-5travel seasons 206travel to/from 226-7travel within 227-8walks 214

Pokhara region 60, 206-7, 208

politics 133, 322-3Poon Hill 306, 308population 323, 337-8postal services 375-6Pothana 306Potters’ Square 160-1, 12power supply 97prayer flags 349prayer wheels 349public holidays 376, 379puja 347Pulchowki Mountain

180-1Purang 305

Rrabies 392radio 377rafting 15, 46, 48-50,

316-20, 312, see also canoeing, kayaking

Bhote Kosi 317earthquake damage 317Geruwa River 273-4Kali Gandaki 318Karnali 319, 15, 47Kathmandu 83, 85Marsyangdi 318-19Pokhara 211-12safety 49, 317Sapt Kosi River 283Seti Khola 318Sun Kosi 317, 319-20Tamur 320tours 48, 48-9Trisuli River 316-17

Rai people 340Rajpath 315-16raksi 372Ramkot 202-3Rana, Jung Bahadur 328-9Ranighat Durbar 267-8Ranipauwa 236Ratanpuri 278Rato Machhendranath

festival 146red pandas 287religion 22, 323, 344-9Remigha 266Renjo La 299repoussé metalwork 353respiratory infections 393responsible travel 40,

56-8, 95rhinoceros 243, 253, 272,

359, 21rhododendrons 361Ridi Bazaar 268rock climbing, see climbingrubbish 40Rupa Tal 230Rupse Chhahara 233, 306

Ssacrifices 347sadhus 344safety 376-8

air travel 387altitude sickness 394-5Bardia National Park 253Chitwan National Park

246, 253demonstrations & strikes

376-7

410

IND

EX S-T

safety continuedearthquakes 4-5internet resources 378Kathmandu 112Kathmandu Valley 123Pokhara 207rafting 49scams 377-8Thorung La 304trekking 40-2, 289water 393

Sagarmatha National Park 293, 296, 363, 7

sal trees 361saligrams 268, 357salt trade 232Sandakpur 287Sanga, Dharma 278Sankhu 169, 172-3Sarangkot 228-9, 316Saraswati 347Sauraha 249-53, 254-5,

256, 250scams 377-8Scar Rd 311scenic flights 82, 214sculpture 353Seti Khola 318Seti River 209Seto Machhendranath

festival 76Shamanism 349sheep 359Sherpa people 339shikhara temples 352Shiva 345-6Shivapuri Nagarjun

National Park 134-5, 136, 363

Shivapuri Peak 136Shomare 297shopping, see also

individual locationsethical shopping 57, 151haggling 374language 398

Shreenagar Danda 266Shrikandapur 191Siddhartha Highway 264-8sloth bears 243, 253, 359stand-up paddleboard-

ing 211stupas 128

Bodhnath 13, 128-30, 129, 13

Chabahil 127Great Drigung Kagyud

Lotus 262Kathesimbhu 76Manang Samaj 261Namobuddha 187Patan 136Swayambhunath 16,

117-18, 118, 16Sukla Phanta Wildlife

Reserve 275-6, 363Sunauli 256-8Sundari Chowk 75-6Sun Kosi 317, 319-20Suriya Binayak Temple 167Swanta 309Swapna Bagaicha 79Swayambhunath 16, 117-19,

118, 16swimming 214Syangboche La 314Syange 301

TTaglung 307tahr 359Taklam La 314Tal 301Tamang people 339Tamur 320Tansen (Palpa) 265-7, 265Tara 347Tashi Ling 212Tashi Palkhel 212Tatopani 231-4, 306taxes 375taxis 389tea 372tea plantations 286, 287telephone services 378-9television 377temples 20, 78, 124, 350-3,

see also monasteries, stupas

Adinath Lokeshwar Temple 174-5

Amar Narayan Mandir 266

Annapurna Temple 76Bachhareshwari Temple

125Badrinath Temple 153Bageshwari Mandir 270Bagh Bhairab Temple 173Balkumari Temple 167Betal Temple 158Bhagwati Temple 67, 70-1Bhairab Sthan Temple

(Tansen) 266

Bhairab Temple (Nuwakot) 194

Bhairabnath Temple 157-8

Bhimsen Mandir (Tansen) 265

Bhimsen Temple (Bhaktapur) 159

Bhimsen Temple (Kathmandu) 82

Bhimsen Temple (Patan) 137-8

Bhimsen Temple (Pokhara) 207

Bindebasini Temple 202Bindhya Basini Temple

209Brahmayani Temple 190Budha Subba Mandir

285Budhanilkantha 135-6Chandeshwari Temple

(Banepa) 185Changu Narayan Temple

168-70, 168Char Dham Temples 153Chilanchu Vihara 174Dakshinkali 177Dattatreya Temple 159Degutaleju Temple 72Erotic Elephants Temple

153Gauri Shankar Temple

143Gautami Nun’s Temple

262Gokarna Mahadev

170-1, 171Golden Temple (Kwa

Bahal) 143, 21Gopi Nath Temple 153Gorakhnath Temple

126-7Guhyeshwari Temple 127Harisiddhi Bhagwan

Temple 180Ichangu Narayan 134Indrapur Temple 72Indrayani Temple 153Indreshwar Mahadev

Temple 190Jagannath Temple 72Jal Binayak Temple 175Janaki Mandir 280Jaya Varahi Temple 161Jeth Ganesh Temple 161Kali Temple 186Kalika Temple 200Kalmochan Temple 82Karya Binayak Temple

178

Khadga Devi Temple 202Korean Buddhist Temple

261Kotilingeshwar Mahadev

Temple 72Krishna Mandir (Patan)

139Krishna Narayan Temple

(Panauti) 190Krishna Temple

(Kathmandu) 76Krishna Temple (Patan)

140Kumbeshwar Temple 143Lohan Dehar 174Mahabouddha Temple

145-6Mahadev Mandir 266Mahalaxmi Temple 202Mahendreshwar Temple

72Malika Temple 194Manakamana Temple

199Maru Mandapa

Mahavihar 143Maya Devi Temple

258-9Minnath Temple 145Mother Temple of the

Graduated Path to Enlightenment 261

Muktinath 235Myanmar Golden Temple

262Nagar Mandap Sri Kirti

Vihar 174Nara Devi Temple 78Naudhara Kunda 180Nepal Vajrayana

Mahavihara Temple 262

Ni Bahal 161Nyatapola Temple 157Pachali Bhairab 82Pashupatinath Temple

(Bhaktapur) 156Pashupatinath Temple

(Pashupatinath) 125Pulchowki Mai Temple

180-1Ram Chandra Temple 82Ram Mandir 281Ram Sita Bibaha Mandir

280Rameshwar Temple 153Ratna Temple 200Rato Machhendranath

Temple 145Rishikesh Mandir 268Salan Ganesh Temple

160

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

411IN

DEX T-W

Seto Machhendranath

Temple (Jan Bahal) 76-7

Shekala Mai Temple 178Shesh Narayan Temple

175Shiva Parvati Temple

(Bhaktapur) 153Shiva Parvati Temple

(Kathmandu) 67Shiva Temple

(Dhulikhel) 186Shree Rikheshwar

Mahadev Mandir 269Siddhi Lakshmi Temple

156-7Suriya Binayak Temple

167Swayambhunath 16,

117-19, 118, 16Tadhunchen Bahal 157Taleju Temple

(Bhaktapur) 155Taleju Temple

(Kathmandu) 72-3Tana Deval Temple &

Makhan Tole 73-4Thani Mai Temple 202Three Goddesses

Temple 79Til Mahadev Narayan

Temple 158Tripureshwar Mahadev

Temple 82Uma Maheshwar Temple

(Kirtipur) 173-4Uma Maheshwar Temple

(Patan) 143, 145Unamanta Bhairab

Temple 190Vajra Varahi Temple 179Vajra Yogini Temple 176Vajrayogini Temple

172, 315Varahi Mandir 207Vietnam Phat Quoc Tu

Temple 261Vishnu Temples (Patan)

139-40Vishwanath Temple 139Yatkha Bahal 78

tempos 389Tengboche 296Terai, the 60, 237-88, 357,

238-9, 242, 270-1, 278-9

accommodation 237climate 237, 240earthquake damage 4food 237highlights 238-9history 240

travel seasons 237travel to/from 240travel within 240-1

Thakali people 338-9Thanchowk 301Tharu culture 247, 249, 272Tharu people 342theft 378Thimi 167-8Thini 235Thorung La 299, 304Thorung Phedi 304Tibet 385-6Tibetan Buddhism 130, 349Tibetan carpets 354Tibetan culture 212Tibetan people 339Tibetan refugees 133, 212tigers 243, 253, 272, 273,

358tika 346Tikhedhunga 306Tilaurakot 264Tilicho Tal 235Timang 301time 379, 398tipping 375Tiri 236Tistung 315-16Titi Lake 305toilets 40, 379Tolka 306, 308tourism 323, 365tourist information 379tours, see also

individual locationsmotorcycle tours 389mountain bike tours 44rafting tours 48-9to/from Tibet 386

Trans-Himalaya, the 357-8trans-Himalayan trade 331transport 382-9

language 398-9travel to/from Nepal 382-6travel within Nepal 386-9traveller’s diarrhoea 41,

393-4trees 361Trekkers’ Information

Management System cards 225, 231

trekking information 20, 30, 31-42, 289-92

accommodation 291-2books 36clothing & footwear 35-6documents 39-40, 225,

231, 309

earthquake damage 4, 32, 291

emergencies 293, 392emergency facilities 293equipment checklist

36, 38fees 39-40food 291-2guides & porters 33-4independent trekking

32-3internet resources 38-9language 399luxury trekking 292maps 38organised treks 34-5,

292peak ascents 297permits 39-40, 225,

231, 309responsible trekking 40restricted areas 309safety 289, 304, 307short treks 290-1travel seasons 31-2voluntrekking 54-5

trekking routes 289-309, 290

Annapurna Circuit Trek 12, 31, 232, 299-301, 304-6, 302-3, 12, 37

Annapurna Panorama Trek 308, 302

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 31, 306-7, 302-3

Beni to Dolpo 309Changu Narayan to

Sankhu 169Chitwan National Park

248Dhulikhel 186Dolpo 309earthquake damage 4,

32, 291Everest Base Camp Trek

11, 31, 292-9, 294, 11Ghachok Trek 307-8, 302Ghandruk Loop Trek

308, 302Gokarna-Kopan-

Bodhnath Walk 172Great Himalayan Trail

298Hugdi 198Kanchenjunga 309Khopra Ridge Trek 308-

9, 302Makalu Base Camp 309Mustang 309Nagarkot 181, 184-5Namobuddha 186, 187

Nar-Phu 309Panchase Trek 308, 302Phewa Tal 214Pokhara to World Peace

Pagoda 213Shivalaya Trek 293, 295short treks 290-1Tansen 266Tarap Valley Loop 309Thorung La 304Three Passes Trek 299

Tribhuvan Highway 268-9Trisuli 316-17Tukuche 233, 305TV 377

UUlleri 306ultralight flights 52, 214Unesco World Heritage

Sites 350Upper Pisang 301

Vvaccinations 390-1Varahi Mandir 207viewpoints 22

Bhedetar 285Chhukung 299Chimang 305Daman 269Dingboche 298Gangapurna glacier 304Ghermu 301Gokyo Ri 299Hile 286Kakani 311Nagarkot 181Ngawal 301Poon Hill 306, 308Sandakpur 287Thorung La 304Tundikhel 202Upper Pisang 301

visas 380-1, 382Vishnu 346volunteering 53-6, 95vultures 262, 360, 361

Wwalking, see trekking

information, trekking routes, walking tours

walking toursBhaktapur 162-3, 163Kathmandu 80-1, 84,

81, 84Patan 144, 148, 144, 148

412

IND

EX W-Z

water 40, 393water supplies 366weather 18, 23-6, see also

individual regionsweights 377white-water rafting, see

raftingwi-fi 373wildlife 20-1, 243, 246, 273,

358-61

wildlife poaching 364-5wildlife reserves 362-3

Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve 283-4, 362

Lumbini Crane Sanctuary 260

Parsa Wildlife Reserve 363

Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve 275-6, 363

women in Nepal 342, 343

women travellers 381World Heritage Sites 350World Peace Pagoda

(Lumbini) 260World Peace Pagoda

(Pokhara) 213

YYak Kharkha 304yoga

Kathmandu 83, 85Patan 146Pokhara 213Tharkot 181

yoni 345

Zziplining 52, 211-12zoos 146, 246, 272

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

NO

TES413

NO

TES

414

415

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Bradley Mayhew Coordinating Author, Itineraries, Planning Your Trek, Kathmandu, Kathmandu Valley & Around, Trekking Routes, Nepal Today, History, Religion, Health A self‑professed mountain junkie, Bradley has been travelling to Nepal and the Himalaya for almost 20 years, including several months each in Pakistan, Ladakh, Tibet, Bhutan and Sikkim. Bradley has coordinated several editions of this guide and is also the coordinating author of Lonely Planet Tibet, Bhutan,

Central Asia and Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya guidebooks. For this edition he focused on Kath‑mandu, the valley and the Everest region. He was most recently seen starring in a 10‑part Arte TV documentary following Europe’s most beautiful long‑distance trails. See what he’s up to at www. bradleymayhew.blogspot.com.

Lindsay Brown Need to Know, If You Like…, Month by Month, Volunteering & Responsible Trav‑el, Kathmandu to Pokhara, Pokhara, The Terai & Mahabharat Range, Trekking Routes, People & Culture, Arts & Architecture, Environment & Wildlife Nepal is a favourite destination for Lindsay, from the Terai’s steamy jungles to the high‑ altitude mountain trails. A former conservation biologist and Publishing Manager at Lonely Planet, Lindsay first visited Nepal over 25 years ago and

has spent the last decade or so regularly visiting the country. He has trekked, jeeped, ridden and stumbled across many a Himalayan mountain pass and contributed to Lonely Planet’s South In-dia, India, Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra, Nepal and Pakistan & the Karakoram Highway guides, among many others.

Stuart Butler Outdoor Activities, Kathmandu Valley & Around, The Terai & Mahabharat Range, Trekking Routes, Biking, Rafting & Kayaking, Directory, Transport Stuart first travelled to Nepal over twenty years ago and has been a frequent visitor to both Nepal and the greater Himalaya region ever since. He has co‑authored numer‑ous Lonely Planet guides to South Asia but getting to spend weeks hiking the Nepalese Himalaya for this book made this project extra special. His travels for

Lonely Planet, and for a wide variety of magazines and photo projects, have taken him beyond Nepal to the shores of the Arctic, the deserts of Asia and the forests of Africa. His website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.

OUR STORYA beat‑up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – Dec 2015ISBN 978 1 74321 007 9© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Stuart at: lonelyplanet.com/members/stuartbutler

Read more about Bradley at: lonelyplanet.com/members/nepalibrad

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non‑commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer‑to‑peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above ‑ ‘Do the right thing with our content.’