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406406

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Ana Tiganescu, Ed Cox, George Nelis, Germma Marjaya, Johannes Feddersen, Kate Larson, Kirsty Spence, Krissi Hall, Kristian Folkman, Marek Porzycki, Marina Abate, Maxime Smits, Meaghan Philpott, Mim Nelson-Gillett, Peter Neundorfer, Rudi Peeters, Sarah Westelinck, Todd Robins, Valeria Parrini, Vincent Janssen

WRITER THANKSRyan Ver BerkmoesMany thanks to friends like Patticakes, Ibu Cat, Hanafi, Stuart, Suzanne, Rucina, Neal, Jenny and Phillip, Ani, Nicoline, Eliot Cohen, Pascal and Pika and

many more including Samuel L Bronkowitz. Huge thanks to Amy, the rest of the family and Charlie, who never once ate my shoes. Love to Alexis Ver Berk-moes, we’ll always have Bali (Lada Warung or not).

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: woman carrying flowers through rice paddies, Martin Puddy/Getty ©

Behind the Scenes

THIS BOOKThis 16th edition of Lonely Planet’s Bali & Lombok guidebook was researched and written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, who also wrote the previous edition, and curated by Kate Morgan. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editors Sarah Reid, Dora WhitakerProduct Editor Kate KielySenior Cartographer Julie SheridanBook Designer Katherine MarshAssisting Editors Janet Austin, Judith Bamber, Melanie Dankel, Kate James, Gabrielle

Innes, Kellie Langdon, Kate Mathews, Anne Mulvaney, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Wil-liamson, Gabrielle StefanosCartographer Julie DodkinsCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Andi Jones, Lauren Keith, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Lauren O’Connell

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

407

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAas 224Abang 234accommodation 376-8

language 398activities 23-5, 32-41, see

also individual activitiesagriculture 341, see also

subakAir Panas Banjar 253air travel 386-7airlines 386-7alcohol 321, 348-9alcohol poisoning 382, 395Amed 220-4, 221Amlapura 216-17Ampenan 276amusement parks

Bali Safari & Marine Park 196

Bali Treetop Adventure Park 236-7

Waterbom Park 53animal welfare 182, 268, 370animals 370-1, see also zoos

& wildlife reserves, individual species

Antosari 242Anturan 250, 251arak 382, 395architecture 362-8area codes 19art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 350-61, see also

individual artscourses 160, 186

ATMs 380

Bbabi guling 346-7Bahasa Indonesia 398-405

Balangan Beach 107-9, 108, 9

Bali Aga people 212, 334Bali Arts Festival 23, 131,

25, 356Bali Barat National Park

259-60, 259Bali belly 396Bali Bird Park 191-2Bali bombings 329

Memorial Wall 53Bali Botanic Garden 236Bali Kite Festival 24,

124, 25Bali Orchid Garden 121Bali Safari & Marine Park

196Balian Beach 266-7Balinese language 402bamboo 367Bangli 198-9Bangsal 283Banutan 222-3Banyuning 223Banyuwedang 258bargaining 382Barong 351, 356Barong Landung 144basket-weaving 190, 359-60Bat Cave Temple 207bathrooms 384batik 359Batuan 190Batubulan 192Batur 232-3Bayan 284beaches 21, 65-7

Balangan Beach 107-9, 108, 9

Balian Beach 266-7Banutan Beach 222Batu Bolong Beach 96Batubelig Beach 88Berawa Beach 96Bias Tugal 207Bingin Beach 109

Blue Lagoon Beach 207Bukit Peninsula 9Crystal Bay Beach 145Double Six Beach 52Dream Beach (east

Bali) 216Dream Beach (Nusa

Lembongan) 137Echo Beach 100Gegar Beach 115-16Gili Air 314Gili Meno 310Gili Trawangan 300-1Green Bowl Beach 114Heaven Beach 295Impossibles Beach 111Jimbaran Beach 104Jungutbatu Beach 136Kerobokan Beach 88Kuta (Lombok) 290-1Kuta Beach 15, 52, 15, 65Kuta Reef Beach 52Legian Beach 52Lovina 248Nelayan Beach 96Nusa Dua 115Padang Padang Beach 111Padangbai 207Pandawa Beach 115Pantai Bumbangku 295Pantai Dagong 295Pantai Keramas 197Pantai Ketewel 197Pantai Klotek 196Pantai Lebih 196Pantai Lepang 197Pantai Masceti 197Pantai Mawi 296Pantai Medewi 267Pantai Mengening 263Pantai Patra Jasa 52Pantai Pering 197Pantai Purnama 197Pantai Segar 294Pantai Selegimpak 136

Pantai Selong Blanak 296Pantai Siyut 197Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang

136Pantai Ujung 218Pasir Putih 216Pemuteran Beach 254Pererenan Beach 101Prancak Beach 96Sanur Beach 121Seminyak Beach 78Sire 283Suluban Beach 113Tanjung Aan 294Tegalwangi Beach 106Tuban Beach 52Virgin Beach 216

Bebandem 206bedbugs 397Bedugul 235Bedulu 183-4beer 345, 344Belega 190Belimbingsari 268-9bemos 387-9Benoa Bay

reclamation project 320-1

Benoa Harbour 128bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Tree Farms 188Bingin 109-11bio rocks 255bird flu 395birds 370birdwatching

Bali Barat National Park 259

Bali Bird Park 191-2Petulu 155Singapadu 191-2Ubud 160

black magic 212, 335Blahbatuh 188-9Blongas 297

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

408

IND

EX B-F

boat travelsafety 142, 388to/from Bali & Lombok

387within Bali & Lombok

388boat trips & cruises

Bali Barat National Park 259

Kedisan 233Nusa Lembongan 138Teluk Gilimanuk 260

Bodong 144-5Bona 190Bonnet, Rudolf 353books 320-1

arts 350, 351. 354Eat, Pray, Love, 178food 343, 347history 325, 330

Brahma Vihara Arama 253Buahan 233-4Bukit Mundi 146Bukit Peninsula 9, 104-20

resorts 20bull races 268bus travel 387, 389business hours 19, 381

CCampuan Ridge 161Candidasa 212-15, 213Candikuning 235-7Canggu 13, 20, 94, 96-100,

95, 13car travel 389-91carrageenan 143caves

Goa Gajah 184Goa Karangsar 145Pura Goa Lawah 207

Cekik 269-70Ceking 187cell phones 18, 383Celuk 192Cemagi 263-4central mountains 47, 228-

42, 229accommodation 228climate 228food 228highlights 229travel seasons 228

ceramics 361

ceremonies 335-40chemists 395children, travel with

42-5, 53chocolate 188cinema 320-1climate 18, 23-5, 378climate change 373, 386clinics 394-5coffee 349coffee luwak 189, 349consulates 379cooking courses 342

Gili Air 316Gili Trawangan 302Lovina 249Sanur 122Tanjung Benoa 118-19Ubud 160-2

courses, see also cooking courses

art 160, 186diving 37, 122jewellery making 160language 131, 160, 379music 160surfing 36textiles 160

Covarrubias, Miguel 353crafts 358-61

courses 160, 186credit cards 380cremation 336-7cruises, see boat trips &

cruisesCrystal Bay Beach 145culture 21, 320-1, 331-41currency 18customs regulations 378cycling 39-40, 389

Danau Batur area 234Gili Air 314Gili Trawangan 302Lovina 249Nusa Lembongan 138-9Nusa Penida 143-4Tirta Gangga 218-19tours 39-40Ubud 158-9Umalas 94

Ddaggers 360Dalem Bedaulu 183, 184Danau Batur 233-5Danau Bratan 235-40, 236Danau Buyan 238-9Danau Segara Anak 287

Danau Tamblingan 238-9dance 15, 179, 350-2, 356dangers, see safe traveldengue fever 395Denpasar 128-36, 130

accommodation 131-2activities 129-31drinking 133festivals 131food 132-3medical services 135sights 128-9transport to/from 135-6transport within 136walking tours 134, 134

departure tax 387diarrhoea 396disabilities, travellers

with 384diving 10, 12, 36-7, 70,

396, 70Amed 220Batu Aba 145Blongas Bay 297Blue Lagoon 208Bodong 144Candidasa 213courses 37, 122equipment 36-7freediving 301Gili Air 314Gili Gede 277Gili Islands 308Gili Meno 311-12Gili Tepekong 213Gili Trawangan 301Kuta (Lombok) 291-2Lovina 248-9Nusa Lembongan 138,

139Nusa Penida 143-4Padangbai 208Pemuteran 254-5Pulau Menjangan 257Sanur 121Senggigi 279-80Teluk Jepun 208Tulamben 225-6

Djirna, Made 355dogs 182dokar 391dolphins 72, 248Dream Beach 137drinks 348-9

coffee luwak 189, 349language 399-400

driving 389-91

drugs 382Dutch influence 324-5

Eeast Bali 47, 193-227, 194

accommodation 193climate 193food 193highlights 194travel seasons 193

East Bali Poverty Project 385

Eat, Pray, Love 178Echo Beach 20, 100-1, 95Ekas 295electricity 378embassies 379emergencies 19, see also

medical serviceslanguage 401

environment 369-74environmental issues 112,

373-4development 320-1fishing 296Gili Islands 309tourism 370

etiquette 301, 334, 379events, see festivalsexchange rates 19

Ffabric 198, 358-60, 356fauna, 370-1, see also zoos

& wildlife reserves, individual species

ferries, see boat travelfestivals 23-5

Bali Arts Festival 23, 131, 25, 356

Bali Kite Festival 24, 124, 25

Galungan 24Kuningan 24Nyale Festival 23, 292Nyepi (Day of Silence)

23, 337Ramadan 284, 301Ubud Writers & Readers

Festival 24, 162films 320-1flora 371-3food 14, 22, 342-9, 345,

345, see also cooking courses

babi guling 346-7books 343, 347children, travel with 44

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

409IN

DEX F- L

chocolate 188language 399-400vegetarian travellers

348warungs 347

freediving 301

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGalungan 24gamelan 352gardens, see national

parks, parks & gardensGaruda Wisnu Kencana

Cultural Park 107gay travellers 380Gelgel 201geography 369Gerupuk 294-5Gianyar 197-8giardiasis 396Gilbert, Elizabeth 178Gili Air 314-18, 315Gili Asahan 277Gili Gede 277Gili Islands 12, 48, 298-318,

299accommodation 298climate 298diving 308food 298highlights 299itineraries 31transport 299-300travel seasons 298

Gili Meno 310-14, 311, 22Gili Trawangan 16, 300-10,

302, 304, 2, 67accommodation 303-7activities 301-2beaches 300-1drinking 308-10food 307-8nightlife 308-10safety 306shopping 310transport to/from 310

Gilimanuk 270golf courses

Nusa Dua 115Pancasari 237-8

Gondang 284Green School 367Gunung Agung 205-7,

226-7Gunung Batukau 240-2Gunung Batur 229-35, 230

Gunung Kawi 187-8Gunung Lempuyang 219Gunung Rinjani 16, 286-8,

339, 286, 17Gunung Seraya 219, 220

Hhandicrafts 358-61hawkers 382health 159, 393-7heatstroke 396hepatitis 395hiking 37-9

Amed 220Bali Barat National

Park 259Candidasa 213Danau Buyan 238Danau Tamblingan 238equipment 38Gunung Agung 205-6Gunung Batukau 241Gunung Batur 231-2Gunung Rinjani 285-8highlights 38Lovina 249safety 39Senaru 284-5Senggigi 280Sideman 202Tirta Gangga 218tours 39

Hillside 140Hinduism 333-4history 322-30

Bali bombings 329books 325, 330Hindu influence 323independence 326Suharto era 328-9volcanic eruptions 328WWII 326

hitchhiking 391HIV 395holidays 381hospitals 394-5hot springs

Danau Segara Anak 287Kedisan 233Lovina 253Toya Bungkah 234-5Yeh Sanih 245

Iikat 356, 359Indonesian language

398-405

insurance 379health 393vehicle 390

internet access 379internet resources 19Islam 335

holidays 381itineraries 26-31

JJagaraga 247Jatiluwih rice terraces

241, 321jellyfish 397Jembrana 267Jembrana Coast 267-8Jemeluk 222jewellery 361Jimbaran 14, 104-6,

105, 14Jungutan 206Jungutbatu 136, 137-8,

139-40

KKalibukbuk 250-2kayaking 316Kecak 351, 356Kedisan 233-4Kerambitan 265Kerobokan 88-94, 76Kerobokan Jail 88, 330Keruak 297Kiadan Pelaga 238Kintamani 232-3kites, see Bali Kite Festivalkitesurfing 53, 121, 291kopi luwak 189, 349Kotaraja 289kris 360Kuban 234Kubu 227Kuningan 24Kusamba 196-7, 207Kuta (Bali) 11, 46, 50-101

accommodation 50, 57-9, 51, 54, 11

activities 53-6beaches 52climate 50drinking 63, 64-73emergencies 75food 50, 61-3highlights 51medical services 74-5nightlife 11, 64-73safety 74

shopping 73-4sights 52-3tours 56transport to/from 75transport within 75travel seasons 50

Kuta (Lombok) 290-4, 291Kuta Beach 15, 52, 15, 65Kuta cowboys 61Kutri 189-90

LLabuhan Lalang 258-9Labuhan Lombok 297Lange, Mads 57language 18, 398-405

courses 131, 160, 379legal matters 379-80Legian 52-75, 54

accommodation 59-60beaches 52drinking 63, 73food 63-4medical services 74-5nightlife 73safety 74sights 52-3transport to/from 75transport within 75

Legong 351-2, 356Lehan 223Lembar 276Lembongan 138Lempad, I Gusti Nyoman

154Les 227lesbian travellers 380LGBT travellers 380Lipah 223literature, see booksLombok 48, 271-97, 272

accommodation 271climate 271food 271highlights 272itineraries 31travel seasons 271

Lovina 247-53, 248accommodation 249-51activities 248-9beaches 248courses 249drinking 252food 251-2nightlife 252sights 248tours 249

410

IND

EX L-P

Lovina continued transport to/from 252-3transport within 253

Mmacaques 154, 45, 166Mada, Gajah 323malaria 395Manggis 211Mangsit 281manta rays 72Marga 264marine life 72, 370-1markets 343, 345

Bangli 199Bebandem 206Candikuning 236Denpasar 133Gianyar 198Gili Trawangan 310Jimbaran 104Jimbaran Fish Market

104Kampung Arab 133Kintamani 233Kubu 227Lembongan 138Mataram 275Pancasari 237Pasar Badung 133Pasar Kumbasari 133Semarapura 199Seraya 217Seririt 253Sukawati Market 191Tulamben 225Ubud 172, 175, 176

marriage 336Mas 185-6masks 360-1Masriadi, Nyoman 355Mataram 274-6, 275Mawun (Mawan) 296McPhee, Colin 154, 353measures 379Medewi 267-8medical services 394-5,

see also individual locations

memorials, see monuments & memorials

mobile phones 18, 383

money 18, 380-1monkeys 154, 45, 166monuments & memorials

Bajra Sandhi Monument 129

Gunung Kawi 187-8Margarana 264Memorial Wall 53Puputan Monument

200-1stone pillar 121Tirta Empul 187war memorial 270

mosquesMasjid Gelgel 201Masjid Kuno 290Masjid Kuno Bayan

Beleq 284motorcycle travel 389-91movies 320-1Muncan 206Munduk 239-40museums & galleries

Agung Rai Gallery 155Agung Rai Museum of

Art 154-5Blanco Renaissance

Museum 153-4Batur Geopark Museum

232Kendra Gallery 87Ketut Rudi Gallery 155Kody & Ko 87Komaneka Art Gallery

152Museum Arca 185Museum Buleleng 246Museum Le Mayeur 120Museum Manusia

Purbakala Gilimanuk 270

Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali 128-9

Museum Puri Lukisan 149

Museum Rudana 155Neka Art Museum 152-3Neka Gallery 149, 152Nyoman Gunarsa

Museum 201-2Pasifika Museum 115Pranoto’s Art Gallery 155Rio Helmi Gallery &

Cafe 178Setia Darma House of

Masks & Puppets 186Symon Studios 245Taman Wedhi Budaya

129

Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Arts Centre 181

Tonyraka Art Gallery 186Muncan 206Munduk 239-40music 352-3

courses 160

Nnames 332nasi campur 343national parks

Bali Barat National Park 259-60, 259

Batur Caldera Geopark 229

Gunung Rinjani National Park 286-8, 286

Negara 268nightlife 21, see also

individual locationsnorth Bali 47, 243-60, 244

accommodation 243climate 243food 243highlights 244travel seasons 243

Nusa Ceningan 142-3Nusa Dua 114-18, 116Nusa Lembongan 136-

42, 137Nusa Penida 20, 143-6, 41Nyale Festival 23, 292Nyepi (Day of Silence)

23, 337

Oofferings 340ogoh-ogoh 337ojek 391-2opening hours 19, 381outdoor activities 32-41

PPadang Padang 111-12Padangbai 207-11, 208painting 353-8palaces

Klungkung Palace 200Puri Agung Karangasem

216-17Puri Anyar Kerambitan

265Puri Gede 217Taman Tirta Gangga 218Ubud Palace 149

Palasari 268-9

Pancasari 237-8Pandawa Beach 115Pantai Segar 294parks & gardens, see also

national parksBali Bird Park 191-2Bali Botanic Garden 236Bali Orchid Garden 121Garuda Wisnu Kencana

Cultural Park 107Mayura Water Palace 274Puputan Square 129

Pasir Putih 216passports 384-5Pecatu 104Ped 144-6Pejaten 265Pejeng 184-5Pemuteran 254-8Penelokan 232Penujak 290Penulisan 233Perancak 268Pererenan Beach 101Petulu 155pharmacies 395planning

Bali & Lombok basics 18-19

Bali & Lombok’s regions 46-8

budgeting 19calendar of events 23-5children, travel with 42-5costs 376, 379health 393-4internet resources 19itineraries 26-31repeat visitors 20travel seasons 18, 23-5

plants 371-3politics 321, 330pony carts 391population 321postal services 381pottery 361Praya 290processions 9Puaya 190-1public holidays 381Pulaki 254Pulau Menjangan 257Pulau Serangan 128puppets 180, 186Pupuan 242Pura Besakih 204-5, 205Pura Goa Lawah 207

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

411IN

DEX P

- TPura Luhur Ulu Watu 16,

112-13, 16Pura Rambu Siwi 269Pura Sakenan 128Pura Taman Ayun 263Pura Taman Saraswati

149, 166Pura Tanah Lot 263, 28Putra, Agung Mangu 355Putra, Wayan Sudarna 355Putung 211

Rrabies 395-6rafting 40-1

Sungai Telagawaja 206Ubud 159

Ramadan 284, 301Rangda 356religion 283, 321, 333-5Rembitan 290Rendang 206rice 342-3, 374rice terraces 241, 321rituals 335-40road rules 391

SSacred Monkey Forest

Sanctuary 154, 166Sade 290safe travel 381-3

arak 382, 395Bali Barat National

Park 260boats 142, 388children 43hiking 39Gili Islands 306Kuta (Bali) 74Kuta (Lombok) 294

Sakti 146sambal 346Sampalan 144Sana, Ketut 355Sanda 242Sangsit 247Sanur 120-8, 122

accommodation 122-4activities 121-2courses 122drinking 127food 125-7medical services 127nightlife 127shopping 127sights 120

transport to/from 127transport within 127-8

Sapit 289Sasak language 402Sasak Village 290Sawan 247Sayur, Gede Suanda 355scams 383sea turtles 72, 254, 310,

372, 72seaweed 143Selang 223Selat 206Selong 297Selong Blanak 296-7Semarapura 199-201, 200Semaya 145Sembalun Valley 285-6Sembiran 227Seminyak 17, 46, 75-88

accommodation 50, 80-1, 51, 76, 17

activities 79-80beaches 78climate 50drinking 84-5entertainment 86food 50, 81-4highlights 51medical services 88nightlife 84-5safety 88shopping 20, 86-8sights 78-9transport to/from 88travel seasons 50

Seminyak Village 20Senaru 284-5Senggigi 278-83, 279Seraya 217Seririt 253-4sex tourism 380shadow puppets 180, 186sharks 72shipwrecks 33, 138, 225,

308shopping 22, 133-5, see

also markets, individual locations

language 401textiles 198, 358

Sibetan 206Sideman 202-3Singapadu 191-2Singaraja 245-7Sire 283Smit, Arie 154Snel, Han 154

snorkelling 14, 36-7Amed 220Gili Air 314Gili Meno 311-12Gili Trawangan 301Kuta (Lombok) 291-2Lovina 248-9Nusa Lembongan 138Padangbai 208-9Pemuteran 254-5Pulau Menjangan 257Senggigi 279-80Tulamben 225-6

Songan 235songket 358south Bali 46, 103

accommodation 102climate 102food 102highlights 103travel seasons 102

spas 10Candidasa 213Gili Air 315Gili Trawangan 302Kerobokan 88-9Kuta (Bali) 53, 56Lovina 249Sanur 122Seminyak 79-80Senggigi 280Tanjung Benoa 118Ubud 157-8

Spies, Walter 154, 202, 353stone carving 361, 356Suana 145subak 264-5, 339, 341Sukaraja 297Sukarara 290Sukawati 190-1Sungai Ayung Valley 163surfing 12, 32-6, 68, 34

courses 36festivals 24Gili Air 314Gili Trawangan 301Kuta (Bali) 53Kuta (Lombok) 291Nusa Ceningan 142Nusa Dua 115Nusa Lembongan 138Padang Padang 111Sanur 121Seminyak 80Tanjung Desert 277Ulu Watu 113

swimming 245, 382, see also beaches

TTabanan 264-5Taman Ujung 217Taman Wisata Tetebatu

289Tampaksiring 187-8Tanglad 145Tanjung Aan 294Tanjung Benoa 118-20, 118Tanjung Desert 277, 278Tanjung Luar 297Tanjung Sanghyang 141taxis 392Tegallalang 187Tejakula 227telephone services 383Teluk Penyu 216Tembuku 203temples 21, 364, 365-7

Bat Cave Temple 207Pura Batu Bolong 278Pura Batumejan 96Pura Batur 233Pura Besakih 204-5,

205Pura Bukit Mentik 235Pura Dalem Balangan

107Pura Dalem Jagaraga

247Pura Dalem Penetaran

Ped 144Pura Dalem

Penunggekan 199Pura Dalem Prancak 96Pura Dalem Sidan 197Pura Dasar Batuan 190Pura Desa Ubud 149Pura Gaduh 189Pura Gede Luhur Batu

Ngaus 263Pura Gegar 115Pura Gili Kencana 257Pura Goa Lawah 207Pura Gunung Lebah 152Pura Jagatnatha 129Pura Jagat Natha 246Pura Kebo Edan 185Pura Kehen 198-9Pura Lempuyang 219Pura Lingsar 276Pura Luhur Batukau 241Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 16,

112-13, 16Pura Maduwe Karang

247Pura Maospahit 129Pura Mas Suka 114

412

IND

EX T-Z

temples continuedPura Meru 274Pura Pancering Jagat

234Pura Penataran 269Pura Penataran Agung

204Pura Penataran Sasih

185Pura Ponjok Batu 245Pura Puncak Penulisan

233Pura Puseh Batuan 190Pura Puseh Batubulan

192Pura Pusering Jagat 185Pura Rambu Siwi 269Pura Samuan Tiga 184Pura Silayukti 207Pura Taman Ayun 263Pura Taman Pule Mas

186Pura Taman Saraswati

149, 166Pura Taman Sari 201Pura Tanah Lot 263, 28Pura Ulun Danu Bratan

236Tenganan 212Tetebatu 288-9textiles 198, 358-60, 356,

see also ikattheft 383Tibubiyu 265ticks 397Tihingan 201-2time 18, 383tipping 381Tirta Empul 187Tirta Gangga 218-20toilets 384tourist information 384tours 39-40, 392, see also

walking tours, individual locations

touts 382

Toya Bungkah 234-5Toyapakeh 145traditional medicine 159train travel 387transport

to/from Bali & Lombok 386-7

within Bali & Lombok 387-92

trekking, see hikingTrunyan 234Tuban 52, 57, 60-1, 64, 58Tulamben 224-6turtles 72, 254, 310,

372, 72typhoid 396

UUbud 11, 47, 147-83, 148,

150, 156, 11, 28accommodation 147,

162-72activities 155-9climate 147courses 160drinking 178-9entertainment 179-80festivals 162food 147, 172-8highlights 148history 148internet access 182itineraries 149medical services 182-3nightlife 178-9shopping 180-2sights 148-55tourist information 183tours 159-60transport to/from 183transport within 183travel seasons 147walking tours 161, 163,

161, 163Ubud Writers & Readers

Festival 24, 162

Ujung 217Ulu Watu 112-14, 108Umalas 94Ungasan 114

Vvacations 381vaccinations 394vegetarian travellers 348visas 18, 384-5volcanoes 369

Gunung Batukau 240-2Gunung Batur 230-2,

230Gunung Rinjani 286-8

volunteering 146, 385

Wwalking tours

Campuan Ridge 161, 161Denpasar 134, 134Sungai Ayung Valley

163, 163walks

Batubelig Beach to Echo Beach 96

Sanur beachfront 121Ubud 164

Wallace, Sir Alfred 373warungs 347water 155, 396water sports 119, see also

diving, kitesurfing, rafting, snorkelling, surfing

waterfallsAir Terjun Gangga 284Air Terjun Gitgit 247Air Terjun Jukut 289Air Terjun Sindang

Gila 284Air Terjun Singsing 253Air Terjun Tiu Kelep 284Air Terjun Tiu Pupas 284Air Terjun Yeh Mampeh

227Batukandik 145Munduk 240Singsing Dua 253

wayang kulit 353weather 18, 23-5, 378websites 19weights 379Wektu Telu 283, 335west Bali 48, 261-70, 262

accommodation 261climate 261food 261highlights 262travel seasons 261

wi-fi 379women in Bali & Lombok

333women travellers 385, 397woodcarving 360-1

YYeh Gangga 265Yeh Pulu 184Yeh Sanih 245yoga

Gili Air 314-15Gili Meno 312Gili Trawangan 302Kerobokan 88Kuta (Lombok) 292Sanur 122Seminyak 80Ubud 157-8

Zzoos & wildlife reserves

Bali Bird Park 191-2Bali Safari & Marine

Park 196Proyek Penyu 254Sacred Monkey Forest

Sanctuary 154, 166Turtle Sanctuary 310

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

413N

OTES

414

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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

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Park/Forest

Sportsground

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International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415316th edition – Jul 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 545 6© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSKate MorganHaving worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a

freelance editor.

Ryan Ver BerkmoesRyan has written more than 110 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. He grew up in Santa Cruz, California, which he left at age 17 for college in the Midwest, where he first discovered snow. All joy in this novelty soon wore off. Since then he has been travelling the world, both for pleasure and for work — which are often indis-tinguishable. He has covered everything from wars to bars. He definitely prefers the latter. Ryan calls New York City home. Read more at ryanverberkmoes.com

and at @ryanvb.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’