Beginner Crochet Techniques

Contents

Getting Started with Crochet: Choosing a hook and yarn and reading patterns

The Basic Stitches: making a slip knot and working a foundation chain, single crochet, half

double crochet, double crochet, treble crochet, turning chains, and finishing your project

Fun & Easy Techniques: making ridges, working with double strands, increases and

decreases, shell borders, changing colors, attaching appliqués, working in the round, making

cords, forming picots, making different shapes, making a simple flower, and working stitches

in reverse

7 Patterns for You to Practice Your New Skills: Baby Block Sampler, Fishy Cat Toy,

Valentine’s Heart, Octopus Toy, Sunflower, Halloween Pumpkin Decoration, Mini Easter

Basket

Copyright © 2014 Tara Cousins

All rights reserved.

ISBN-13: 978-1497318175

ISBN-10: 1497318173

Getting Started with Crochet

Before you begin learning the crochet stitches, you need to choose an appropriate hook and

yarn for your project.

Crochet Hooks

Crochet hooks come in many different sizes

and are made of materials such as

aluminum, wood, or plastic. It’s important

to match the correct hook size to your yarn.

Most hooks will have their size stamped

directly onto them. Size is given by a letter,

number, or millimeter measurement (or all

three). Hook sizes can be confusing,

because they often have both a letter and a

number in the US, just a number in the UK,

and even different brands may have

different letter/number combinations.

Overall, it’s best to just check the universal

millimeter measurement.

The following table shows some common

hook sizes:

Metric USA UK

2.25mm B - 1 13

3.25mm D 10

3.5mm E – 4 9

4.25mm G -

5.00mm H – 8 6

5.50mm I – 9 5

6.00mm J – 10 4

6.50mm K 3

7.00mm - 2

9.00mm N 00

The larger the hook, the thicker or chunkier the yarn should be. Very small and thin hooks

(often steel hooks) are best used with crochet thread. In this manner you can create crochet

lace. When just starting out, I recommend using a thicker yarn and a larger hook to make the

learning process easier on your eyes and your fingers!

Yarn

There is also a wide range of yarns on the market. Fibers range from acrylic to alpaca to

cashmere. Red Heart Super Saver yarn is a common choice for your first project. It can be

found in a wide range of colors at virtually any big box store that carries craft supplies. It is

affordable, durable and machine washable. However, if you are making a smaller project, or if

you have a large budget, I would recommend experimenting with some of the higher-priced

and softer yarns. I have used the Deborah Norville yarns from Premier Yarns and it is very soft

and easy to work with, as well as the Red Heart Soft line. Lion Brand also makes some lovely

yarns that are fiber blends that wash well.

When choosing yarn, make sure to read the washing instructions on the label. It would be a

pity if you made a lovely 100% wool scarf or sweater and then accidentally shrunk it while

washing!

You can also experiment with crocheting unconventional materials, such as cotton twine,

strips of fabric, and even wire. The possibilities are seemingly endless. I have even seen people

cut up plastic bags to crochet and repurpose into reusable tote bags!

When just starting to learn crochet, I would not recommend using a fancy novelty yarn or a

very thin yarn. It can be difficult to see your individual stitches when working with unusually

fancy yarns, and you may have trouble with your hook “catching” the wrong fibers and

splitting the yarn. Therefore, the project patterns in this booklet all use a basic medium

worsted weight yarn.

When you go to the store to buy yarn, look

for the following symbols to figure out the

weight of the yarn:

The yarn packages will also show you what

hook size they recommend for that

particular yarn. For the included patterns I

used a size I/5.50mm hook.

Reading patterns and symbols

Once you have decided on a project and gathered your materials, you will need to learn how

to read crochet patterns. Patterns should start by telling you the basics: skill level, finished

size, recommend yarn and hook, additional materials needed and the gauge of the project.

Gauge refers to the overall size of the stitches which will affect the finished size of the project.

Some people naturally crochet more loosely or more tightly. If you are making a crochet

garment, gauge is especially important. The pattern will give a gauge, such as: 16 sts and 8

rows= 4”. This means that you should make a sample swatch of the given stitch pattern and

make sure you have 16 stitches and 8 rows in a 4” square. If not, you need to adjust your

gauge and you can do this by using either a larger or smaller hook. If you are just learning

how to crochet, try choosing a pattern where gauge is not important. For example, a stuffed

animal toy, a baby blanket, or a scarf.

Next, the pattern will contain the technical directions. I have seen patterns vary in the way

they present the instructions, but for the most part there is a standard way of writing patterns.

For more intricate patterns, the designer will also provide “symbols” to help guide you on your way.

Each stitch has a different symbol and the great thing about symbol patterns is that they are universal

and can be read regardless of your language.

If the pattern only contains words, don’t worry. There is a standard way of writing and reading patterns.

First, you will be given the amount of starting chains needed. Then, the pattern will be written for each

row, or round (abbreviated rnd). Reading patterns can be like learning a new language at first, but you

will eventually get comfortable with it. Some common aspects of reading patterns:

When you see * * it means to repeat the directions between the * * for as many times as

stated. Some patterns use brackets [ ] instead. You may also only see one *, with

directions to repeat from the *.

When you see ( ) it generally means to work all the stitches inside the ( ) into one single

stitch. Parentheses ( ) can also group together a set of directions that needs to be

repeated.

When working in rounds, you will either “join” at the end of the round with a slip stitch,

or continue working around without joining. You can use stitch markers to mark the

beginning of each round if you do not join.

Most patterns will provide an explanation of the more technical stitches so you really

only need to know the basic stitches by heart. There are standard abbreviations for all

the stitches.

Often, patterns worked in rows will show you how many stitches are in each given row

by placing the stitch number in ( ) or after a :

Take a close look at your stitches and make sure your stitch counts remain even – many

beginners accidentally add a stitch at the end of the row/rnd or miss stitches in the

middle of the row/rnd

A note about the abbreviation “yo”: YO means yarn over. Some people crochet by wrapping

the yarn over the hook, then pulling through. Especially those who have a background in

knitting, this “yo” technique is more comfortable. However, I choose to merely turn the hook

slightly and use it to pull the yarn through without technically moving my hands to “yo.”This

is hard to explain in writing, but realize that some crochet directions will use the yo

instructions, while some will just say “pull yarn through” or something similar.

Videos are a great way to learn how to hold the crochet hook and how to complete your

stitches. Visit my free YouTube channel, CuteKidsCrochet at

http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqj1XoCFZxEOiIgiF0EQp9A (or simply enter

“cutekidscrochet” in the YouTube search box) for some visual guidance!

And a final note on patterns and instructions: UK terms and American terms can be very

different, so be aware of how the design is written!

The Basic Stitches

Foundation Chain

All crochet items begin with a simple slip

knot and a foundation chain. The pattern

will begin by stating how many chains

(abbreviated ch) are needed.

First make a slip knot, following the photos

below. Make a loop (1), insert hook (2), and

pull tight (3).

Next, you will need to make the chain. The

photos below show how to hold the hook

and how to make a starting chain. There are

many different ways to hold a hook, so you

need to experiment to find a way that is

comfortable for you.

Insert your hook into the slip knot loop and

use the hook to grab the yarn (1). Pull a

loop through (2). Continue making chains

in this manner (3).

You can use the index finger on your left hand to adjust the tension of the yarn coming in, and

you can use the index finger on your right hand to steady the tension of the stitches as you

make them. Tension simply means how loose or tight your loops are.

Once you have a foundation chain, you can work your stitches back along that chain. Crochet

is a series of loops. The loops are stitches which begin by hooking through the loops on either

the foundation chain or on other stitches.

Sometimes you will use chains in the middle of a pattern. Each loop is counted as one stitch

Single Crochet (sc)

This is the basic crochet stitch.

To complete a single crochet: Insert the

hook in the desired loop (photo 1), draw up

new loop (photo 2), pull through both loops

(photo 3).

There are a couple of different ways to

work off the starting chain. Each chain is a

“stitch” and you will notice that there are

technically three loops in each chain. This is

difficult to describe in writing, however try

holding your chain horizontally. You will

see loops across the top, across the bottom,

and in the back.

You can insert your hook just through the

top loops of each chain. This is the easiest

way to work off the chain. Another option

is working through two loops at the same

time – the top and bottom ones.

The photos show working through the top

loop only. In subsequent rows, work

through both loops of each single crochet

stitch, unless pattern states otherwise.

Half Double Crochet (hdc)

This stitch is a little taller

than the sc. It also creates a

nice ridged line

horizontally across your

work.

To begin, wrap yarn

around hook once. Insert

hook, pull up yarn. Now

you have three loops on

hook. Pull through all

three loops.

Double Crochet (dc)

This stitch is very similar

to the hdc.

Wrap yarn around hook

once, insert hook into

loops indicated, pull up

yarn. Now you have three

loops. Pull through two

loops. Pull through

remaining two loops. A

double crochet is taller and

looser than a single

crochet and a half double

crochet.

To complete a dc: wrap

yarn around hook (1),

insert hook, pull up a

loop,: pull through two

loops,: pull through final

two loops

Treble Crochet (tr)

This stitch is even taller than the double crochet. To begin, wrap yarn around hook twice (1).

Insert hook and pull up a loop (2). Now there are four loops on hook. Pull through two (3).

Pull through two again (4). Pull through final two (5). Photo 6 shows a row of completed tr on

top of a sample of sc.

Turning Chains

Crochet items are worked in either rounds or rows. Often, there is a combination of both. For

example, many baby blankets are worked in rows first and then finished with border rounds.

When working in rows, a “turning chain” is needed at the end of each row. This gives you

enough room to turn the work and start a new row.

For single crochet rows (sc), complete one turning chain.

For half double crochet (hdc), typically two turning chains are needed.

For double crochet rows (dc), complete either two or three turning chains (depending on the

pattern). Usually when three chains are used, they count as the first dc stitch.

For treble crochet rows (tr), three or four turning chains are needed, and almost always count

as the first tr stitch.

Turning ch with sc

When working in rounds, you will often

need to turn corners. If it is a regular 90

degree corner, complete three stitches in

each single corner stitch. This increases the

stitches enough so that the work will lie

flat.

Turning a corner in sc and dc

Finishing off your project

To tie off the yarn, so that the loops don’t unravel, simply cut the yarn a few inches away from the last

stitch (1). Then make a chain (2) and pull all the way through the chain. Pull the end to tighten into a

knot (3).

You can then weave in your loose ends. Loose ends (such as when you start, end, or change colors

midway through a project) can be worked in as you crochet or they can be woven in

afterwards with a yarn needle. If you are weaving them in, leave a long enough tail. Using a

yarn needle, hide the tails within the work, pulling in one direction then back the other way,

and trim the excess. I find that weaving the tails in this manner holds them hidden more

effectively that working them in as you go. It is also much easier for the beginner crocheter.

Weaving in the loose ends

Fun & Easy Techniques

FLO & BLO By simply changing where you insert your

hook, you can change the look of a project

even when working with the basic single

crochet stitch.

Insert your hook in the Back Loop of each

stitch (instead of through both loops) to

create a ribbing effect to be used for the

bottom of hats, the edges of sweaters, or to

create a thicker fabric for scarves or

blankets.

By working in the Front Loops, you create

“lines” across your work. It also extends the

length of your project.

The swatches in the photo below show 5

rows of 12 stitches, worked in both loops,

BLO and FLO.

Working with double strands You can work with two strands at once to

create a thicker final project that works up

quickly. This is a great technique when

making larger items such as blankets.

Yarn skeins have an “inner” and an “outer”

strand and you can use both of these at

once.

Use a large hook, such as a size N/9.00mm

hook. Hold the yarn together and work

each stitch as if the two strand were one.

Here is a photo comparison of two

swatches (each is 5 rows by 12 stitches).

Using double strands works up much

larger!

Single crochet increase (Written as sc-inc, sc inc, work 2 sts into 1 st, or simply inc)

Often when working in crochet, you will

want to make your project increase by

adding extra stitches. This basic ladybug

shape was worked in rows, with increase

and decreases at the end of each row.

To increase, simply work two sc stitches

into one stitch. This is the same when

working in hdc, dc, or tr.

Close up of an increase

Single crochet decrease (sc-dec, sc dec, or simply dec)

To decrease, you will end up making two sc stitches become one new stitch.

To do this, insert your hook and pull up a loop. Do not pull through. Instead, insert hook into

next stitch and pull up a loop. Now, pull through all three loops on hook.

Decrease step 1, Decrease step 2

Decreasing in hdc, dc, and tr is very similar. Simply skip the last pull-through of the stitch and

start the next stitch. Pull the final pull through through both loops to combine the stitches.

Changing colors correctly

To change colors in the middle of a single crochet or double crochet row, drop the current

color to the back of the work before the final pull-through. Bring in a strand of the new color as

the final pull through.

Changing colors step 1 Changing colors step 2:

Completed color change: front Completed color change: back

Changing colors at the end of a row

You can change colors at

the end of a row in two

ways. You can bring in the

new color as the final pull-

through of the last stitch.

Changing colors at the end of a row

Or, you can use the

turning chain as a way to

bring in the new color.

Note: when the color will

be used again soon, you

may not need to cut and

reattach. In many striped

designs, just keep the yarn

attached and bring up

from previous rows.

Using the turning chain to bring in a new color

How to make a shell border

The shell stitch is often used as a border

edging. There are many different types of

shell edges. To create a simple shell edge, sc

around the work first, then: sc, skip 1 stitch,

5 dcs in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, and repeat.

If you find that the shell ruffles up too

much, simply skip 2 sts instead of 1.

Shell edge

Attaching Appliqués

Many crochet designs have additional crocheted motifs which are attached to the main project

(motif is another word for appliqué, or something sewn on at the end). First, follow the

instructions to make the motif.

Make sure you leave a long enough tail.

Next, use a yarn needle and the long tail to

sew the motif directly onto the project. Use

a simple back stitch around the outside

edges to attach.

To create a double-sided look, two motifs

are sandwiched around the project and

may be attached simultaneously or

individually.

Sewing on a butterfly motif

Working in the round

When beginning to work in the round, there are a couple of ways to start. Your first option is

making a length of chain, say 6 chains like in the photo below, and joining with a slip stitch (sl

st). Basically, a slip stitch is a way to join your stitches without making much of a “stitch”.

Simply insert your hook into the desired stitch and pull the yarn all the way through the loop

on the hook.

The photo below shows a joined ring:

Now, you can work your stitches directly into the inside of the ring. If you would like to work

sc stitches, ch 1 first. If you would like to work dc stitches, ch 3 first. In dc, this ch 3 counts as

the first dc stitch.

The photo to the right shows 14 dc worked

into the center of a ch-6 ring, and joined

with a sl st to the top of the first ch 3:

Another way to begin to work in the round

is to chain 2 and then work many stitches

into the first ch on the hook. To the right is

a photo of a round of 7 sc stitches worked

this way, and joined with a sl st to the first

sc stitch in the round:

If you would like to make a flat crochet circle, simply follow this general rule:

Ch 4 and sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1: work 7 sc stitches into the center of the ring. Join with a sl st and ch 1 at the end of this

round and every other round from now on.

Rnd 2: increase in each st.

Rnd 3: increase in every other st.

Rnd 4: increase in every 3rd st.

Rnd 5: increase in every 4th st.

Rnd 6: increase in every 5th st.

Rnds 7 - ? : keep increasing in every 6th/7th/8th st and so on until your circle is your desired

size. Remember to stagger your increases otherwise you will not have a very smooth circle!

The photo below shows the beginning of a flat circle:

Many crochet 3D items, such as stuffed toys and amigurumi animals are made by working in

rounds and adding simple increases and decreases to form the shape of the final item.

Making Cords

You can vary the thickness of your cord by

changing the amount of starting stitches –

the more sc you work into the ring, the

thicker the cord.

You can make thick crochet cords by

working in the round. To begin start with a

ch 5 and sl st to form a ring. Next, make 5 sc

in the center of the ring. Do not join.

Instead, keep working sc around and

around, and a thick cord will begin to form.

Work sc around until cord measures your

desired length.

How to form a Picot

A fun little decoration you can add in to your crochet items is called a “picot.” To form a picot,

you make a certain numbers of chains, often 3 or 4, and work a slip stitch to join to the first

chain. Then, keep working your stitches as before. Sometimes you will skip a stitch when you

form the picot, sometimes not.

Below is a photo of a blanket with a picot edge border:

To make this border *picot, skip next st, sl st in next 2 sts* repeated around.

Using a Combination of Stitches to Create Shapes

Since the basic crochet stitches have different heights, you can combine them in different ways

to make different shapes which can be used as appliqués or motifs.

To make a triangle, ch 5 and work the

following stitches back along the chain: sl st

to 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in

next ch, dc in next ch.

Here is a fun shape made with a

combination of sc, hdc, dc and tr. The

combinations are limitless, so play around

with it until you get the shape you are

looking for!

Making a Simple Flower

Here is a crochet pattern for a simple crochet flower. Hopefully by this point you should be

able to figure out the instructions!

To begin, with worsted weight #4 yarn and

a size I/5.50mm hook, ch 4 and sl st to form

a ring.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in ring, sl st to first sc in round.

Rnd 2: *ch 5. Working back along chain: sc

in 3rd ch from hook, hdc, dc. Next, sl st to

next sc stitch on ring* Repeat from * to * a

total of 8 times. Tie off at end of rnd.

You can easily adjust and modify this

flower. The number of sc in the ring is the

number of petals. You can play around

with different stitch combos along the petal

chains to make them pointy or wide, long

or short.

Working stitches in reverse

To give your crochet project a nice finished

look, you can add a corded border by

working stitches in reverse. You can work

any of the basic stitches in reverse.

When working in reverse, insert your hook

to the stitch to the right and pull up loops

to the left of the other loop(s) on the hook.

Here is an example: the Reverse Half

Double Crochet Stitch (rhdc):

Rhdc step 1: wrap yarn around hook

Rhdc step 2: insert hook to the right of the hook

Rhdc step 3: pull up a loop – new loop is to the

left of the loops on hook

Rhdc step 4: pull through all loops on hook

Rhdc border: *rhdc, ch 1, skip next st* repeated

around

Patterns for You to Practice Your New Skills

Baby Block Sampler Pattern

This project is great for a

beginner - you get to

practice the basic stitches, then practice using a single

crochet stitch to connect them all into a block shape. This

project is also perfect for babies to play with - soft and

cuddly, lightweight yet big and brightly colored. Little

fingers can hold on easily and if you like, add a bell to the

middle of the stuffing (make sure it's secured well so it won't

fall out - bells are a big choking hazard!).

Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: 4" x 4" x 4"

Materials: size I/5.50 mm hook, worsted

weight yarn in 3 colors for the block sides and

1 color for connecting the blocks

Side with Color A (make 2):

ch 11.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch

across (10 sc). Turn.

Rows 2- 11: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Tie off at the end of row 11. (photo 1)

Side with Color B (make 2): ch 12.

Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook. hdc in each st

across. Turn.

Rows 2 - 7: ch 2 (does not count as a st, only

a turning ch), hdc in each st across. Turn.

Tie off at the end of row 7. (photo 2)

Side with Color C (make 2): ch 11.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, *dc in next

ch, sc in next ch* repeated across. Turn.

Rows 2-8: ch 1. *sc, dc* repeated across.

Turn.

To assemble block: Attach Color D to any

corner (photo 4). Work a sc stitch through

both layers of two pieces, lining up evenly

(photo 5). Add another piece, lining up

sides (photo 6).

Continue adding in pieces, working sc

around the outside edges. work 3 sc in each

corner stitch (photo 7). Add stuffing when

you near the end (photo 8). Add a bell to

center of stuffing if you like. After all pieces

are connected, tie off and weave in all loose

ends (photo 9).

Crochet Fishy Cat Toy

Fill this cute fishy cat toy with cat nip or just use a little

stuffing. Quick and easy to make, it's a great way to use up

any extra scrap yarn. Plus, cat toys are great beginner

projects because I'm pretty sure your cat won't mind if it

doesn't turn out perfect!

The fish toy pictured was worked with Red Heart Super

Saver yarn in Pumpkin, Cherry Red, Blue Suede, and Coffee.

A size I/5.50mm hook was used. However, almost any size

hook or yarn will do. You will also need a small amount of

stuffing and a yarn needle.

Notes:

sc inc: work 2 sc in one stitch

sc dec: combine 2 stitches, i.e. insert hook, yo and pull up a loop. insert hook into next st, yo

and pull up a loop. yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Fish Sides (make 2 in any colors you like):

ch 5.

Row 1: sc in each ch across (4 sc)

Row 2: sc inc, 2 sc, sc inc (6sc)

Row 3: sc inc, 4 sc, sc inc (8 sc)

Row 4: sc inc, 6 sc, sc inc (10 sc)

Row 5: sc in each st across (10sc)

Row 6: sc in each st across (10sc)

Row 7: sc in each st across (10sc)

Row 8: sc dec, 6 sc, sc dec (8 sc)

Row 9: sc in each st across (8sc)

Row 10: sc dec, 4 sc, sc dec (6sc)

Row 11: sc in each st across (6sc)

Row 12: ch 1. sc in 2nd ch from hook. sc inc

in next st. 4 sc. sc inc. (9 sc)

Row 13: ch 1. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. sc

inc in next st. 6 sc, sc inc, sc inc. (14sc)

Row 14: sc in each st across (14 sc)

Row 15: sc dec, 10 sc, sc dec (12 sc). Tie off.

Fish eye (make 2):

With dark brown, ch 3. sl st to first loop in ch to form a ring. Tie off, leaving a long tail to sew

eye on. Sew eyes on to fish sides.

Assemble fish: match up fish sides and work a sc all around the outside edges of fish sides,

working through both layers. Add a small amount of stuffing and/or cat nip as you near the

end. sl st to first st in round and tie off.

Fishing line: with dark brown, ch 60. tie off and tie one end on to mouth part of fish.

Crochet Valentine's Day Heart Pattern

Finished size: Heart measures approx. 5” x 6” when worked

with size J hook and worsted weight yarn

The heart pictured was made with Red Heart worsted

weight yarn in Burgundy and Red Heart Holiday yarn in

white with silver sparkle. A size J hook was used. However,

the heart can be made in a variety of hook and yarn sizes.

Note: Inside parentheses () you will see the total number of stitches for the given round or

row

Increase (sc inc): To increase means to work 2 stitches in 1 stitch. So, sc inc means work 2 sc

into 1 stitch.

Decrease (sc dec): To decrease in single crochet, or make 2 stitches become 1, follow these

steps: Insert hook into stitch, pull up yarn. Insert hook into next stitch and pull up yarn. Now

there are 3 loops on hook. Pull yarn through all three. For the heart design, decreases are

worked on the first and last stitches in the rows, never in the middle. When the directions

say sc dec, decrease by working 1 sc over two sts.

Heart Pattern:

With red, ch 3.

Note: at end of each row, ch 1, turn.

Row 1: 2 sc across (2sc)

Row 2: 2 sc across (2sc)

Row 3: sc inc, sc inc. (4sc)

Row 4: sc across (4sc)

Row 5: sc inc, 2 sc, sc inc (6 sc)

Row 6: sc inc, 4 sc, sc inc (8 sc)

Row 7: sc across (8 sc)

Row 8: sc inc, 6 sc, sc inc (10 sc)

Row 9: sc inc, 8 sc, sc inc (12 sc)

Row 10: sc across (12 sc)

Row 11: sc across (12 sc)

Row 12: 4 sc, sc dec (5 sc)Row 13: sc

across (5 sc).

Row 14: 3 sc, sc dec (4 sc)

Row 15: 2 sc, sc dec (3st). Tie off.

New row 12 on other side of heart: connect red to 6th stitch on row 11, according to photo

below.

New Row 12: sc dec, 4 sc (5 sc)

Row 13: sc across (5 sc)

Row 14: sc dec, 3 sc (4 sc)

Row 15: sc dec, 2 sc (3st). Tie off.

Weave in loose ends

Attach white to any spot on edge of heart. Work sc around so that heart lays flat. Work 2 sc in

each corner bend and a sc decrease in center of heart. At the end of rnd, sl st to first sc in

round, tie off, weave in loose ends.

Crochet Octopus Baby Toy

The octopus pictured was worked with Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Orchid, Delft Blue,

Baby Pink, White, and Black. A size H/5.00mm hook was used. However, almost any size

hook or yarn will do. You will also need a small amount of stuffing and a yarn needle.

Head: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring.

Note: At the end of each rnd, Sl st to first st

in rnd. Ch 1.

Note: Repeat instructions between * and *

until rnd is complete, stopping at end of

rnd.

Rnd 1: 7 sc in ring.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around.

Rnd 3: *Sc, sc, 2 sc in next st* repeated

around.

Rnd 4: *3 sc, sc inc* repeated around. (photo

1 - head will begin to form upwards)

Rnds 5-9: sc in each st around.

Rnd 10: *5 sc, sc dec* repeated around.

Rnd 11: 2 sc, *sc dec, 5 sc* repeated around.

Rnd 12: *5 sc, sc dec* repeated around.

(photo 2)

Rnds 13-15: sc in each st around. Rnd 16: 2 sc in each st around. Tie off.

(photo 3)

Eyes: (photo 4)

With white, ch 3, sl st to first ch to form a

ring. 7 sc in ring. Sl st to first st in rnd. Tie off.

With black, ch 3, sl st to first ch to form a ring,

tie off.

Mouth: (photo 5)

With pink, ch 6. Sl st in each ch across. Tie off.

Legs:

*Ch 25. 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in each

of the next 21 chs, 1 sc in each of last 3

chs*Repeat from * to * a total of 8 times. Tie

off. (photos 7-9)

Assembly:

Sew black part of eyes on to white part. Sew

white part of eyes on to head, positioning as

shown in photo.

Sew on pink mouth (photo 6).

Next, flip head inside out. With an approx.

8” strand of blue, attach legs to head as

shown in photo 10. Sew a basic running stitch

around, connecting legs to head. Do not tie

off yet, leave ends free.

Flip head right side out. Stuff with stuffing

and cinch head closed using the 8” blue

strand from before (photo 11). Tie closed.

Trim ends and weave in (photo 12).

Crochet Sunflower Pattern

The flower pictured was worked with Red

Heart Super Saver yarn in Coffee and

Bright Yellow and a size I/5.50mm hook,

however, almost any size hook or yarn will

do.

To begin, with dark brown, ch 4. sl st to first loop to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 7 sc into center of ring. sl st to first st in rnd. ch 1, turn.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. sl st to first st in rnd. ch 1, turn.

Rnd 3: sc in first st. *2 sc in next st, sc in next st* continued around. At end of rnd, sl st to first st

in rnd. tie off brown.

Petals: connect yellow to any stitch on edge of brown center. *ch 4. working back along chain,

sl, hdc, hdc. skip 1 st on brown center. sl st to next st.* repeat around, from * to * to make the

petals.

Tie off yellow at end of round, weave in loose ends, and flower complete!

Halloween Pumpkin Decoration

The pumpkin pictured was worked with

Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Pumpkin

and Deborah Norville Everyday Solids in

Kiwi and a size I/5.50mm hook. However,

almost any size hook or yarn will do. You

will also need a small amount of stuffing

and a yarn needle.

Pattern:

With orange, ch 16.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch

across (15 st). Turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc in back loops only of each st

across. Turn.

Rows 3-34: repeat row 2.

The photo at right shows 34 rows complete.

At the end of row 34, fold in half and work a sl st through back loop of row 34 and back of

starting chain (photo 1 above). Tie off and turn inside out.

With a yarn needle and 12” of orange yarn, weave a strand through bottom edge and cinch

tight (photo 2). Stuff pumpkin with stuffing and repeat for other edge (photo 3). Tie off strands

and hide to the inside of pumpkin.

Stem:

With green, ch 4, sl st to form a ring.

Sc in each ch around (4 sc), then continue to work sc around and around, for 4 rounds (photo

4).

*Next, ch 6. Work the following sts back along ch: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, dc (photo 5). Sl st to next st

on stem.* repeat from * to * a total of 4 times. Tie off, leaving a long yarn tail to sew stem on to

pumpkin. Use a yarn needle and sew stem to top of pumpkin (photo 6).

Mini Easter Basket Pattern

This cute little basket is the perfect size for

holding mini Easter egg candies. Using two

strands of yarn at once creates a thick

enough handle to stand up on its own and a

strong enough basket to hold chocolates.

Finished size: Basket measures approx. 3" x 5"

Materials: The basket pictured was worked with Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Buff fleck and

a size N/9.00mm hook.

Special Techniques:

Increase (sc inc): To increase means to work 2 stitches in 1 stitch. So, sc inc means work 2 sc

into 1 stitch.

Basket Pattern:

The entire basket is worked using a large size N hook and two strands of yarn, held together

as shown in photo below.

To begin, ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: work 7 sc into center of ring. Sl st

to first st in round, ch 1, turn.

Round 2: sc inc in each st around, for a total

of 14 sc. Sl st to first st in round, ch 1, turn.

Round 3: sc in each st around, sl st to first st

in round, ch 1, turn.

Rounds 4, 5, 6: repeat round 3.

At the end of round 6, ch 12.

Sl st to the stitch directly opposite of chain

on other side of basket. Tie off.

Enjoy!