beesource - beehive designs - all

7/15/2019 Beesource - Beehive Designs - All

1/62

HONEY EXTRACTOR - USDA MODEL

DETAIL 3 - DRAIN FITTING

SIDE VIEW

(NOT TO SCALE)

1/2" PIPE PLUG

SEE DETAIL 2

DRAIN (SEE DETAIL 3)

1/4" J-BOLT &WING NUT W/WASHER

NOTE:

THE HONEY EXTRACTOR IS USEDTO SPIN HONEY OUT OF THE COMBSAFTER THEY HAVE BEEN UNCAPPED.THIS UNIT WILL HANDLE FOUR COMBSAT ONCE. CAUTION SHOULD BE USEDWHEN EXTRACTING FROM NEW ORVERY OLD COMBS AS THEY ARE SUBJECTTO BREAKAGE. THESE COMBS SHOULDBE PARTIALLY EMPTIED ON ONE SIDE

THEN TURNED AND PARTIALLY EMPTIEDON THE OTHER SIDE, REPEATING THISPROCEDURE UNTIL ALL HONEY IS REMOVED.

1/2" PIPE FLANGE

CONTAINERBOTTOM

1/16" to 1/8" RUBBEROR CORK GASKET

.1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserve

[email protected]/www.beesource.com

Reproduction for personal and non-profit use


2/62

HONEY EXTRACTOR - USDA MODEL PAGE 2

SECTION AA

TOP VIEW1/4"x3/4" STOVE BOLTS

1'-0"

1/8"x1"x12" STEEL STRAP

2"x6"x3/16" PLATE

EXPANDED METAL LATH

WELD

1'-0"

1/8"x1"x12" STEEL STRAP

1/2" PLYWOOD

CONTAINER WALL

ADJUSTING SLOT

1/4" WING NUT & FENDER WASHER

3"x3"x3/16" STEEL PLATE

1/16" to 1/8"x1"x1"x1-1/2"

STEEL ANGLE

1/2"x9/16" NUT BORED TO RECEIVESHAFT. SHAFT & NUT DRILLED 1/8"TO PASS COTTER PIN





3/62

HONEY EXTRACTOR - USDA MODEL PAGE 3

DETAIL 2 - EXTRACTOR PARTIAL SECTION

1/2" STEEL SHAFT

1/2" NYLON BUSHING

AA

1/2" PIPE FLANGE

VARIES

2'-3"

1'-8"

2"

3"

CONTAINER BOTTOM

RUBBER OR CORK GASKET

WELDS

2)1/2"x9/16" NUTS

3"x3"x3/16"PLATE

3/8" COPPER TUBING BUSHING

1/2" PIPE, BORED TOPASS BUSHING

1/2" PLYWOOD TOPOR 1/8" STEEL PLATE

1/2"x9/16" NUT BORED TORECEIVE 1/2" NYLON BUSHING

1/4"x3" STOVEBOLT

1" DIA. WOODHANDLE 1-1/2"x6"x3/16" CRANK ARM

.1999.BeeSource.com-AllRightsReserved.

info@beesourcecom/wwwbeesourc

ecom


4/62

O U T S I D EI N S I D E

E N T R A N C E

S I D E

H A N D L E

N O T T O S C A L E

N O T T O S C A L E

S I D E

S I D E

E N D

E N D

BOTTOM

TOP

S I D E

E N D

V I E W O F E N D

EXPLODED VIEW OF TOP

EXPLODED ISOMETRIC V IEW

N O T T O S C A L E

FIVE DEEP BROOD

FRAME HIVE

V I E W O F T O P

DEEP BROOD HIVE

SHEET 1 OF 1EX. 6327

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN

GRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

AN D

NITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING

1

1

"

1 9 - 1 / 2 "

8 - 1 / 4 "

7 - 5 / 8 "

3 / 8 "

2 "

3

/4

"

3

/8

"


5/62

Modified pillow block bar for Maxant Chain Uncapper.

The reason I made this bar was due to the lack of pillow block adjustment when using the Maxant

Chain uncapper. The uncapper I bought from Maxant, although very good and well engineered,

lacks the ability to adjust the distance between the flailing chains. The factory holes do not allow

the chains to be moved in either direction, thereby causing all the frames to be uncapped to the

same dimensions. This is a problem for those of us that run our honey supers with nine frames.

Our frames are wider than those who run 10 frames per super.

From the factory, my uncapper removed the cappings and about 1/2 of the comb from both sides.

Although this increased my wax yield, it cut the comb down to about 1/4 inch.

I wanted the chains to remove the capping and then very little of the comb.

This bar is made from Stainless steel and installs in less than 20 minutes. (Ten minutes per side).

The long 1/4 slots (A, B, C D) are bevel on one side to hold a 1/4 flat head bolt.

Stock is 16 x 1.125 x 1/4 Stainless Steel.

The hole in the middle (E) is 3/4 and the two on the ends (F) are 1/4.In addition to the two bars, (12) 1/4 x 1 stainless steel bolts with SS washers and SS nuts.

Pictures of the bar and how I installed them are available at my web site.

http://people.ne.mediaone.net/honeyhouse/index.html

Look under Maxant.

Dave Verville

A B C DE

FF

.50

2.25

1.25

5.25

1.25

8.008.00

1.25 1.25

5.25

2.25

.50
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/honeyhouse/index.htmlhttp://people.ne.mediaone.net/honeyhouse/index.html


6/62

H O N E Y U N C A P P I N G TA N K

S C A L E ' N O N E

B A S E D O N F L A P L A N N O . 9 2 8

N O T E :

T H E U N C A P P I N G T A N K I S U S E D T O O P E N T H E

C O M B S B E F O R E H O N E Y E X T R A C T I N G . T W O

B A S K E T S M A Y B E U S E D L E A V I N G A P P R O X I -

M AT E LY 4 2 " T O H A N G U N C A P P E D C O M B S .

M A T E R I A L S :

F R A M E 2 x 2 x 6 ' -0" P I N E

1 x 2 x 8 ' -0" P IN E

16-1/2" x 5 ' -0" x 1 /4"

26 G A . G A LV I N I Z E D

MESH HDW. CLOTH

4' - 2 -3 /4" 8 ' - 6 -3 /4"

2 x 4 x 26 ' -0" P INE

1 LB . 10d NAI LS

B A S K E T

T A N K

BASKET TO COLLECT WAX CAPPINGS

FRAME TO SUPPORT

UNCAPPING TANK

SECTION THRU

CONSTRUCTED

TANK

H ON E Y C OMB U N C A P P IN G TA N K

HONEYCOMB UNCAPPING TANK

USDA ' 80 SHEET 1 OF 1EX. 6325


AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

AN D

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING

8 ' - 6 - 3 / 4 "

1 ' - 3 - 3 / 8 "1 ' - 3 - 3 / 8 "

1 ' - 6 "

1

'-11"

1'-3"

1 "1 "

3 / 8 " L I P

2 x 4 x 1'- 4"

2"SLO

PE

2 x 2 x 1'- 10"

1/4" MESH WIRE

1 x 2

1-1/2" SCREW

1 x 2 x 1'-5"

1 ' - 8 "

3'-0"

1'-2-1

/2"

6'-0" 3

'-0"

1

'-3

-3

/8

"

1

'-3

-3

/8

"

1

'-4

"

1

'-3

-3

/8

"

1

'-8

"

4

'-2

-3

/4

"

1

-3

/8

"

1

-3

/8

"

6 ' - 0 "

2 " D R A I N

3 0 G A L L O N TA N K

20 G A U G E G A LV I N I Z E D M E T A L


7/62

Frames can be made from old supers. Cut wood strips of 1X pine into 1-1/2" strips. Once you place recoveredferal honybee combs in the removeable swarm catching frames, simply take a few frame nails and nail hinged

frame together thus making permanebt the combs placed therein. Simply place in super, reconstructing broodnest to allow bees to settle down.

Making a removeable swarm catching frame is quite easy to accomplish.1. Each half frame is 3/4" wide by 1/2" thick.

2. You can drill 4 to 5 holes to lace frame wire to hold comb that you cut out of feral colony.3. Mount honey filled comb pieces together in a frame.

4. Mount pollen filled comb pieces together also.5. Mount brood layed-up pieces together in frames.

6. Place brood frames together in center of super.7. Place pollen frames on each side of brood frames.8. Place honey filled frames on outside of pollen and brood frames

to complete makeup of supered colony.9. Remove to calm place for bees to settle down.

2 ALUMINUM HINGES

TOP BAR

3/4" X 1/2" X 19"

END BAR3/4" X 1/2" X 8"

BOTTOM BAR

3/4" X 1/2" X 17-1/2"

17-1/2"

17-1/2

"

3/4"

9"

1-1/

3/4"

Removeable Swarm Catching Frames

.1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved.

Dee Lusby/[email protected]


Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only


8/62

DETAILS FOR 3/4" LUMBERSOLAR WAX MELTER

15

BACK VIEW

FRONT VIEW

SIDE VIEW

3/4" x 11-1/4"

DOUBLE GLAZING/THERMOPANE LID

24"

24"

16"

28-1/2" 7"

20-3/4"

13-1/4"

20"

1 " - INSULATING BOARD

1 " - INSULATING BOARD

1/2" THICK WOOD

BRACE FOR LID

1/2" x 2" x 17"

BRACE FOR LID

METAL PAN

METAL PAN

20" x 20" x 5"

A melter of this size will handle waxrendering from 60 hives. You can modify thedimensions and design to fit your own needs.Melters come in all shapes and sizes andcan be made out of just about any usedmaterial. The sheet metal pan should be 4"to 6" deep and big enough to acceptexcluders or at least 2 full-depth frames.Paint the entire unit black for max. heatabsorption. You should put a coarse screenacross the outlet of the pan to keep debrisfrom getting into the pan of molten wax.Make a cappings basket out of "expanded"metal (wire lath) that will fit into the sheetmetal pan.



Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only.


9/62

SLATTED BOTTOM RACKFOR LANGSTROTH BEE HIVE

'.1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved.



(2) SIDES3/4" x 2" x 19-1/8"

(2) ENDS3/4" x 2" x 16-1/4"

(1) WIDE SLAT3/8" x 3-3/4" x 15-3/16"

(13) NARROW SLATS3/8" x 3/4" x 15-3/16"

19-1/8"

16-1/4"

2"

2"

3/4"

1/4"

3/8"

3/8"

3/16"

The slatted rack sits on the bottom board with the wide

slat up and to the front of the hive. Nail and glue (1) end

board and (2) side boards together. Place the wide sla

into the groove and slide it into the end board. Slide

the 13 slats into place down the groove in the side

boards. Nail and glue the 2nd end board to the

two side boards. At this point, all the slats are

in the groove and need to be spaced. Using

a wooden spacer thats 3/8" thick, start at

the wide slat (making sure its seated in

the groove of the end board) and slide thespacers between it and all the small slats

to get them evenly spaced. Once you have

a 3/8" gap between all the slats, mark their

position with a pencil. Make sure the rack is

square. Nail all the slats with 1-1/4" nails to hold in

place.


10/62

DOUBLE SCREEN BOARDSIZED FOR LANGSTROTH BEEHIVE

2) 1/8" hardware cloth / 17-1/2" x 13-1/2"

stapled on each side of 1/4" plywood

8) 3/8" x 3/4" x 3" angled pivot doors

8) 3/4" x #6 wood screws for pivot doors

MATERIAL LIST:

SIDE FRAME

END FRAME

ANGLED PIVOT DOOR

Cut out

1) 1/4" x 15-3/16" x 18-13/16" plywood

1/4" plywood

2) 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 19-1/8" frame bar

2) 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 16-1/4" frame bar3/8"

3/8"

3/8"

3/8"

15-3/16

11-1/2"

3/4"

1-1/4"

1-1/4"

19-1/8"

7-7/8" 7-7/8" 3/4"

1/4" x 1/4"dado

1/4" x 1/4"dado

3/4"

3/4"

16-1/4"

6-7/16"

3"

6-7/16"

18-13/16"

7"

1-1/2"

2-5/8"

2-5/8"

2-5/8"

2-5/8"

2-5/8"

C

C

C

C

1/8"

pilot hole

22-1/2

Cut out





11/62

HONEYBEE CROP POLLINATION CONTRACT

1. The Beekeeper ________________________________ agrees to provide __________ standard colonies of bees at the rate of

_________ hives per hectare for the pollination of ______ acres of _____________________, situated in the district of

_________________ and owned by ______________________________ (the Grower) over the period _________________ to

__________________.

The Beekeeper shall not be responsible for the replacement of beehives injured by chemical poisoning or other damage after the

bees have been placed on the property. The Beekeeper has the right to remove the beehives after rst notifying the grower if

chemicals injurious to bees are to be applied to crops within the 1500 m ight range of the bees and to keep bees from the crop

during the danger period without penalties under this agreement.

2. The Grower shall be entitled to inspect, or cause to be inspected by an ocial government apiary inspector, each colony of bees

after giving reasonable notice to the beekeeper of his intent over the period of the agreement.

3. The Beekeeper agrees to maintain the bees in proper pollinating condition by judicious inspection and supering or removal of

honey as needed.

4. The Grower agrees to provide suitable dry locations for the bees and to assume the responsibility of providing water to the bees. I

there are no directions given as to a suitable location, the Beekeeper, according to his judgement, shall place the hives in such a way

as to ensure maximum pollination of the target crop.

5. The Grower agrees to pay $_______ rental per beehive colony for the duration of the contract. Payment shall be made to the

Beekeeper as follows: $______ on delivery and $______ (the balance) being paid on or before _________ (date). Additional moves o

settings of beehives shall require $________ per hive per move and/or the Grower agrees that the Beekeeper is entitled to ____ per

cent of the crop yield (based on expected yield increase through bee pollination).

6. In the event of the Grower not harvesting the crop, the expected yield shall be determined by an independent authority.

7. In the event of crop failure after the bees have been brought to the crop through circumstances beyond the control of Grower or

Beekeeper, the Grower agrees to pay the Beekeeper the agreed fee per hive.

8. In the event of circumstances beyond the control of both the Grower and Beekeeper where bees have been contracted but not

delivered, and are unable to be delivered due to the crop being aected by environmental extremes, for example, owers have been

destroyed by frost or cyclone, the beehives have been weakened by brood disease, been destroyed by wildre, truck break-downs e

route or the health of Beekeeper precludes delivery, then the contract is null and void.

9. Forty-eight (48) hours notice shall be given to the Beekeeper prior to any spraying by the Grower.

10. This agreement is not assignable or transferable by either the Grower or Beekeeper.

Signed: _______________________________________________ Beekeeper __________ (Date)

Signed: _______________________________________________ Grower __________ (Date)

Signed: _______________________________________________ Witness* __________ (Date)

(* Justice of the Peace or Commissioner of Declarations)


12/62

A

A

B

B

C

C

F

F

G

G

D

D

E

E

3/4" x 4-3/4" x 25"

BOTTOM

PLAN VIEW

PLAN VIEW

TOP VIEW

GLASS

MASONITE

PLAN VIEW

1" x 6-1/4" x 33-1/2"

1-1/2" x 3-3/8" x 27"

5/8" x 3/4" x 19-3/4"

3/4" x 1-5/8" x 18-1/4"

3/4" x 3-5/8" x 6-1/4"

3/4" x 3-5/8" x 8"

1-1/2" x 3-5/8" x 5-1/2"

1-1/2" x 3-3/8" x 5"

3-3/8"5"

1-1/2"

3-3/8"

2-3/4" DIA.

- BOTTOM

- COVER

- (2) SIDES

- ENTRANCE

- FEEDER

- TOP BAR

- (2) BOTTOM RAILS

1" DIA.

1" DIA. x 1-3/4"DEEP HOLE

1/8" HARDWARCLOTH

SCREENED

VENTS, 3/4"

THIS END

TOWARDS

HIVE.

:

3

3

2

2

1

1

DETAILS FOR OAK LUMBER

1"

1/4" x 1/4"

1/8 x 1/4"

1/4" x 1/4"

1/4" x 1/4"

1/8 x 1/4"

5/8"

5/8"

5/8"

1/2" 3/4" HOLES

3-3/8"

1-1/2"

1-5/8"

9"

9"

6"

3-FRAME OBSERVATION BEE HIVE





13/62

DETAILS FOR OAK LUMBER

CONSTRUCTION NOTES

ADDITIONAL MATERIAL:

FOR MAKING SIDES, START WITH A PIECE OF 6/4 OAK STOCK ABOUT 8" IN WIDTH.CUT DADOS FOR FRAME RESTS FIRST THEN RIP THE STOCK INTO TWO PIECES, 3-3/4" WIDE.NEXT, ADJUST FENCE TO 2-7/8" AND CUT DADO, THEN TURN THE STOCK AROUND AND CUTTHE OTHER DADO THAT HOLD THE PANELS. NOW SET THE FENCE TO 2-1/2" AND CUT THEDADO THAT HOLDS THE GLASS. GO BACK AND WIDEN THE FIRST DADOS TO THE THICKNESSOF THE PANEL MATERIAL YOU ARE USING....LUAN, BIRCH PLYWOOD, HARDBOARD.

THE HEIGHT OF PART (2) FOR THE FEEDER CAN VARY DEPENDING ON THE JAR USED.ADJUST TO FIT (PINT, QUART, MASON, ETC.) AN ENTRANCE FEEDER CAN BE MODIFIED ANDUSED IN PLACE OF FEEDER BOTTOM "G" SO THERES TIN UNDER THE JAR INSTEAD OFWOOD. DO NOT MOVE THE HIVE WITH THE SUGAR WATER IN THE JAR. PUT AN EMPTY ONEON FIRST.

ON ONE OF THE SIDES, DRILL THE BOTTOM VENT HOLE ABOUT HALF WAY UP THE FIRSTFRAME SPACE. THIS PREVENTS A CONFLICT WHEN ATTACHING THE FEEDER TOP.

IF YOU USE SCREWS FOR ATTACHING MEMBERS, THEY CAN BE INSTALLED FROM BOTTOMSO THAT NONE SHOW. THE TOP BAR SCREWS GET COVERED WITH THE LATCH AND HINGE.

INSTALL A NICE BRASS PULL ON TOP TO ACT AS HANDLE AND ROUT THE EDGES TO GIVE

A NICE PROFILE.

APPLY PETROLEUM JELLY TO THE EDGE OF THE GLASS BEFORE INSTALLING TO PREVENTTHE BEES FROM PROPOLIZING THE GLASS TO THE FRAME. IF THEY DO PROPOLIZE, USE A

HAIR DRIER ON THE GLASS EDGE TO SOFTEN.

3-FRAME OBSERVATION BEE HIVE

- NOTE - DEPENDING ON YOUR USE AND NEEDS OF THE OBSERVATION HIVE, SEVERALDIFFERENT KINDS OF GLASS AND THICKNESSES CAN BE USED. FOR A LIGHTER

WEIGHT HIVE, USE PLEXI-GLASS. IF LONG TERM CLEARITY IS DESIRED, USE GLASS.YOU CAN REVERSE THE TWO DADO WIDTHS FOR GLASS AND PANEL IF A THINNERGLASS PANEL IS USED. 1/8" GLASS AND 1/4" PANEL.

(2) PIECES OF 1/4" PLEXI-GLASS APPROX. 19-5/8" x 27"(2) PIECES OF 1/8" HARDBOARD OR LUAN 19-5/8" x 27"(2) 3" BRASS HINGES(2) BRASS LATCHES THAT CAN BE LOCKED1" CLEAR TUBING (LENGTH AS REQUIRED)(1) MASON JAR WITH HOLES DRILLED IN THE COVER





14/62

A

19-7/

8"

16-1/4"

3-

1/2"

3/4"

15-1/2"

19-7/8"

3/4"

1/4" X 3/8"DADO

3/4"

A AB B

2) BOARD "A" 3/4" X 2-5/8" X 14-3/4"2) BOARD "B" 3/4" X 2-1/2" X 15-1/2"

SIDE BOARD

SIDEB

OARD

END BOARD

ENDBOARD

2) BOTTOM BOARDS 1/4" X 9-1/4" X 15-1/2" LUAN PLY.

2) SIDE BOARDS 3/4" X 3-1/2" X 19-7/8"

2) END BOARDS 3/4" X 3-1/2" X 15-1/2"

1) PIECE 1/8" HARDWARE CLOTH 5" X 16-1/4"

PLACE 1) PIECE1/8" HARDWARE CLOTH

5" X 14-1/2" THAT'S BEENFOLDED INTO A "V" MAKING IT2-1/2" X 14-1/2" AND PLACE NARROW

END DOWN BETWEEN BOARDS A) ANDB) ON BOTH SIDES.

MATERIAL LIST:

1/2"

3/8"

3-1/2"

GIVE ENTIRE INSIDE OF FEEDER TWO COATS OF POLYURETHANEOR MARINE VARNISH. POUR MOLTEN WAX ONTO ALL INSIDE SEAMS.ATTACH HARDWARE CLOTH TO TOP OF BOARDS "A" WITH STAPLES.

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR 3/4" THICK LUMBER

MILLER TYPE FEEDER





15/62

IPM/SCREEN BOTTOM BOARD

.1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved


Reproduction for personal and non-profit use o

SIZED FOR LANGSTROTH BEEHIVE

FRONT

FRONT

BAC

1/8" x 1/8" GALVANIZED HARDWARE CLOTH,12-1/4" x 17", STAPLED TO TOP OF FRAME.

3/4" x 3/4" x 14-3/4"WOOD FILLER

1/4" x 15-1/8" x 21-3/4"

REMOVEABLE BOTTOMPANEL (plywood, corrugated

plastic, sheet metal)

3/8" x 3/4" x 15-1/4" WOOD STOP

OPTIONAL:3/8" x 3/4" x 14-3/4" WOOD FILLER

OPTIONAL:3/8" x 3/4" x 14-3

WOOD FILLER

(This will allow foa fully closed bott

NOTE: Adjust size of dado

to accommodate

thickness of panelmaterial.


16/62




OPTION

PLYWOOD

FRAME

PINE

FRAME WITH

LAP JOINTS

SIDE RAILS - 2 NEEDED

FRAME SIDE - NEED 2

FRAME BACK - NEED 1

FRAME FRONT - NEED 1

22"

22"

15-1/4"

3"

4"

2"

3/8"

3/8"

3/8

3/8

2" 2"

2"4"

3/4"

1/4"

3/4"

3/4"3/8"

5/16"

13/16"


17/62

Inner Cover for Langstroth Hive

The design of this inner cover allows for considera

exibility. The overall dimensions match that of a

Langstroth hive, 19-7/8 x 16-1/4. The height can badjusted as needed. These plans are for a cover tha

1-1/4 high. If 1/4 plywood is used, there is a 1/4

reveal on one side and a 3/4 reveal on the other. Y

can have the 3/4 side down facing the top bars

providing space for patties, or the 3/4 side can be

used facing up giving space for dry feed or baggie

feeding.

After you have cut all the pieces to size, a rabbet jo

needs to be cut on the short (16-1/4) pieces,

3/4 x 3/8. This is easily done with a dado blade set

but if youre not able to do it this way, here are the

steps using a single blade on a table saw.

Pg. 1

MATERIAL LIST

(1) piece 19-1/8 x 15-1/2 x 1/4 Plywood

(2) pieces 19-1/8 x 1-1/4 x 3/4 Pine

(2) pieces 16-1/4 x 1-1/4 x 3/4 Pine

(Photo shows material/parts for (4) inner covers.)




INNER COVER

1-1/4

16-1

/4

19-7/8

Ed RiceGary, IN. Email: [email protected]


18/62

Pg. 2

Langstroth Hive Inner Cover

Adjust the saw blade so it cuts 3/8 high, and it lea

a shoulder 3/4 from the end of the board. Be sure

use the miter gauge for this operation. Make this c

on both ends of all the 16-1/4 pieces.

Attach a piece of wood (A) to the miter gauge thatextends to the left side of the saw blade (photo

shows 3 x 14 x 3/4). Using another scrape piece o

wood (B), hold it tight against the fence when mak

the second cut to complete the rabbet (C).

Adjust the saw blade so it is 3/4 above the table to

Adjust the fence so there is 3/8 between it and the

blade. Using the jig above, make the second cut on

all the 16-1/4 pieces.



Reproduction for personal and non-profit use on



19/62

Pg. 3





On all the pine frame pieces, a dado is cut for the

plywood, 1/4 wide by 3/8 deep. Cut the dado a 1/

down from the edge. This will leave 3/4 on the othside of the dado. This will vary depending on the

overall height you decide to make the inner cover.

Once complete, you will have equal number of lon

and short pieces for assembly. Two long and two

short per cover.

Run a bead of glue in each dado and install long

pieces onto the plywood. The plywood should notextend past the length of these pine frame pieces.

Glue and attach the short pieces to the plywood,

completing the frame.



20/62

Pg. 4





Nail or staple the rabbit joints at all corners. Install

few staples around the inside edge, going through

the plywood, thus locking it all together.

Layout a center line on the cover. Drill two holes w

a hole saw. I used 1-1/4 hole saw. Any size close to

that is acceptable. You want to end up with an

opening that is about 3-1/2 long.

Use a jig saw and cut between the two holes.



21/62




THE HOSTERMAN POLLEN TRAP

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR BOX ASSEMBLY

16-1/4

6-5/8

4

6-5/8

6-1/2

5-1/2

1-1/2

3/8 EXT. PLY

19-7/8

12-7/84 3

3-5/8

1/2 CHICKEN WIRE

STAPLED TO BOTTOM

3/8 OPEN SLOT

3/8 x 1-1/4 SLOT

3/8 OPEN SLOT

OPEN

DRAWERSLOT

TOP

SIDE

FRONT

BACK

BOTTOM


22/62

3/8 x 3/8 x 1-1/4NOTCH, CENTERED

FRONTA

FRONTB

1-3/4 x 16-1/4 x 3/4(even with the front edge

5 TO THE INCHHARDWARE CLOTH(staple to plywood andwood spacer)

5 TO THE INCHHARDWARE CLOTH(staple to plywood)

3/8 PLYWOOD(16-1/4 x 19-7/8)

3/8 PLYWOOD(14-3/4 x 19-1/8)

5 TO THE INCHHARDWARE CLOTH(staple to plywood andwood spacer)

2) 1-1/8 x 17-1/2 x 3/41) 1-1/8 x 13-1/4 x 3/4(cleats attached to sideand back boards)

1-1/8 x 14-3/4 x 3/4(even with front edge)1-1/8 x 14-3/4 x 3/4

(attach to back board)

2) 3/4 x 13-1/2 x 1/2(cleats attached to underside of plywood to supporthardware cloth, spaceevenly)

3/4 x 9-7/8 x 3/8CENTER IN OPENINGBETWEEN SCREENS

3) 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 x 3/8PLYWOOD BLOCKS(even with front edge)





CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR TOP SCREEN ASSEMBLY, PART 1


23/62





CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR TOP SCREEN ASSEMBLY, PART 2

3/4 x 13-1/2 x 1/2

UNDER SIDE OF TOP PLYWOOD PIECE - 16-1/4 x 19-7/8 x 3/8

TOP SIDE OF LOWER PLYWOOD PIECE - 14-3/4 x 19-1/8 x 3/8

1-3/4 x 16-1/4 x 3/4

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 3/8

1-1/8 x 17-1/2 x 3/4

FRONT

B

FRONT

A


24/62


Dee Lusby/[email protected]


Reproduction for personal and non-profit use only. DRAWER

Standard

screen

mesh(window screen)

Use 3/4" pine for construction with standard window mesh screening. Use 1/4" pine strips nailedto bottom to hold screening and protect drawer bottoms.

16

4-

1/2

2-3

/4

1/4

1/4

3/4 EXT. PLYWOOD

1/4 x 3/4 PINE STRIPS

13

16-3/4

13-7/8 2-1/8

THE HOSTERMAN POLLEN TRAPCONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR DRAWER ASSEMBLY


25/62

WHIMPY HOGANSBEES, BEE PRODUCTS AND HONEY

Box 27, Park City, Ky. 42160 270-749-5191 [email protected]

Hogans Jig For Cutting Handholds in Hive Bodies/Supers

The base on my $39.00 Skil Saw is 10-3/4 x 6.If the base on your saw is different, you will need tmodify this jig. I use a 20 tooth blade.

Align one of the 7 x 4 clamp base on the left end the back brace and nail. The back brace nails into tend of the clamp base. Repeat for the right side.

MATERIAL LIST

(1) piece 16 x 1-3/4 x 3/4 Back Brace(2) pieces 7 x 4 x 3/4 Clamp Base

(2) pieces 6-1/2 x 2 x 1-1/2 Ramp Wedge

(cut from a 2 x 8. This will be a 17 degree angle(2) pieces 6-1/2 x 2-1/2 Left & Right Saw Guide

(1/4 plywood or masonite. This will be a 17degree angle.)

(1) piece 12 x 3/8 x 3/4 Front Saw Stop(I use a wax cleat for this.)





26/62


Align the 6-1/2 x 2 ramp wedge to the inside on

the left and right, tight to the back brace, and nail.This will leave an opening 8 wide.

Nail the two 6-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 1/4 saw end stops tothe ramps. These can be made of 1/4 plywood ormasonite. These stops are what holds the saw insid

the jig.

Attach the 12 x 3/8 front saw stop to the clamp

bases. I use a wax cleat for this. The jig is complete





27/62





Place the jig on top of the super end or side you wto cut the handhold in, and align the ends of the jiand the end of the super. Align the front of the jigand the front of the super at the top. Use 2 welding

clamps, or 2 C clamps to clamp the jig, and thesuper to a work table.

This is the handhold that will be made with this jig

With practice you can make a handhold about eve30 to 45 seconds.

Watch the video to see how this jig is used:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaWRjpJ5f0w

Tie the saw guard open with a tie strap just enougto clear the saw base. Set the depth of cut at 2-1/2(You will have to experiment with this for the thickness of the wood.) Place saw in the cradle and slide

down the ramp, holding pressure against the leftramp saw guide, until blade makes contact with thwood. While holding pressure against left ramp saguide, raise right end of saw and allow saw to slide

down ramp about 1/4. Push down on right end ofsaw. Repeat raising right end of saw and allow sawslide down ramp 1/4. Repeat until the front of thesaw base contacts the front stop.

If you want the handhold to be wider than just thewidth of the saw blade, return the saw to the top othe jig, slide saw slightly to the right and slidedown ramp. Repeat until the saw side base contacthe right ramp stop and the front stop.

NOTE: CAUTIONRelease saw trigger and allow blade to STOP befor

removing saw from jig. Place saw on table and planext super on table and clamp jig to super.

Instructions are for a left-handed saw. Photos sh

a right-handed saw.


28/62

FOUNDATION FORM BOARD( FOR 9-1/8", 6-1/4" AND 5-3/8" DADANT TYPE FRAMES )

A form board is a device that holdsframes in such a position that aids in

the installation of foundation and

gives a solid base for wedge nailing

and wire embedding. Simply place

the frame over the form board so

the solid platform of the form

board extends into the middle

of the frame, making it the

right height for easyinstallation of the

foundation into the

bottom bar. Nail the

top wedge in and

embed wire if

needed.

3/8"

3/8"

5/8" 5/8"

3/4"

15/32"5/16"

1/2"

9-3/4"

4-1/8"

5-1/16"

7-7/8"

2-3/16"5/8" 25/32"

Materials:

1) wood board

3/4" thick,

9-11/16" deep,

16-15/16" wide.

3) wood cleats

3/4" thick,

1-1/2" wide,

9-11/16" long.





29/62

E N D V I E W

S I D E V I E W

T O P V I E W

I S O M E T R I C V I E W

S C A L E ' N O N E

A S E D O N F L A P L A N N O . 9 2 7

N O T E :

F I N I S H E D U N I T S H O U L D B E PA I N T E D W I T H

P A I N T A P P R O V ED F O R U S E I N C O N TA C T W I T H

FOOD.

SUPER DUMPING BOARD

USDA ' 80 SHEET 1EX. 6325

SUPER DUMPING BOARD COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK INAGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOM

AN D

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPER

2 ' - 1 "

1 1 "

7

-1

/2

"

7

-1/

2

"

3 "

1 ' - 2 "

2 ' - 1 "

1

'-

8

"

1 1 " 1 ' - 2 "


30/62

N O T T O S C A L E

EXPLODED ISOMETRIC VIEW

DOUBLE THREE

FRAME BROOD

N O T T O S C A L E

HIVE

6 DEEP BROOD HIVE

SHEET 1EX. 6327


AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONO

AN D

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOP

N O T E :

S I Z E

1

1

8

8

2

2

2

3

4

4

3

3

7

7

6

5

5

6

7

9

9

9 " 1 '6 "3 "2 "1 "0 "

BOTTOM SUPPORT

T O P R A I L

T O P R A I L

TO P

BOTTOM

D I V I D E R

I N T E R - T O P

S I D E

1-1/2" x 10" x 3/4"

1-1/2" x 19-3/4" x 3/4"

1-1/2" x 12-3/4" x 3/4"

11-1/2" x 19-3/4" x 5/8"

10" x 18-1/2" x 5/8"

10-3/8" x 18-7/8" x 1/8"

4-7/8" x 18-1/2" x 5/8"

11" x 19-3/4" x 5/8"

LOCATIONPART NO.

1. PART NO. 6 AND NO. 7 TO BE REMOVABLE,

DO NOT GLUE OR NAIL .

2 . PARTS NO.1, 2 AND 3 MADE FROM 1x2

P INE OR CYPRESS.

3. PART NO.6 MADE FROM 1/8" EXT. A-A

PLYWOOD.

4. ALL OTHER PARTS OF 5/8" EXT. A-A

PLYWOOD.

5. TREAT ALL PARTS WITH PENTA SOLUTION.

NOTE: BASED ON UNIV. OF FLA . PLAN NOS. 907 AND 924-R

P A R T N O . 8 - E N D

1" DIA. VENT

SCREENED

1/2" DIA. ENTRY

1

1

"

5 / 8 "

3 / 8 "

3

/4

"

1 0 "

1 / 4 "

4 - 7 / 8 " 4 - 7 / 8 "

9


31/62

( FOR LANGSTROTH HIVE )

1-1/16"

1/4"

45

7/8"

5/8"

3/8"

19"

1-1/8"

1/2"

SAW KERF

1/8" x 5/16"3/4"

7/8"

1-3/8"

3/8"

TOPBAROVERALL

19"

17-3/4

"

BOTT

OMBA

ROVE

RALL

3/4"

3/8"

7/16"

1/4"

1/2"

1/2"

1/2"

7/16"

3-1/2" - DEEP2-5/8" - MEDIUM

2-1/8" - SHALLOW

TACK STRIP

FOR FOUNDATION

7/16" X 1/4" X 17"

9-1/8"-DEEP

6-1/4"-MEDIUM

5-3/8"-SHALLOW

1

4

6

5

7

2 3

DADANT TYPE FRAMES





32/62

This converted chest freezer is an ideal size for heating up five gallon buckets of honey.Whether its honey that has crystalized and needs reliquefying or honey thats too high inmoisture, this type of heater will do the job. The freezer I used measures 19" deep by 30" wideby 28" high (these are all outside dimensions of the chest not including the lid or base) and is

the type used in ice cream shops. Find a size that will work for your needs and that costs littleto nothing. Remove all existing wiring and refridgeration system from chest. Install two or threeelectrical boxes on the bottom and connect together with conduit. I used three bulb socketswith 100 watt bulbs. This will provide plenty of heat for a fast rise in temperature. Mount a 4"electrical box on the outside of the chest and attach bulb piping to box. Connect a length of16/3 electrical cord with plug to the electrical box. Mount a remote bulb thermostat to a 4"square electrical box cover plate by drilling a hole in the center big enough for the shaft to fitthrough and secure with screws unless the thermostat has its own enclosure. Thetemperature range of the thermostat should cover at least 100F - 130F and be a single posingle throw. Install the thermostat bulbon the inside of the chest aboutmidway between top and bottom.Install some kind of shelf supportfor the buckets but still leave openspace for air to circulate from topto bottom. Be sure to keep anyflammable material away fromthe bulbs. Use sheet metal forprotection if needed. Be sure tocheck the inside temperaturewith a thermometer the firsttime you use the heaterto make sure thethermostat is setproperly. Use careand caution when usingthe heater just as youwould with any appliancethat is electrical andheat producing. Theadvantage of gentleheating (104 deg. Ffor 24 hours) with a heatcabinet is the enzymecontent does not decreasenor is there an inrease ofHMF content.

HONEY HEATER- CHEST STYLE -

1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved.




33/62

8-

7/8"

6-

1/8"

7/8"

18-1/

8"

18-1/

8"

18-3/4"

18"

3"

18-1/8"

18-1/8"

18"

6"

3"

3/4" EXT.PLWD.

CROWNBOARD

ROOF

BROODCHAMBER

FLOOR

SECTION A

1-1/21/4

7/161/2 1/2

1-1/211/16

A

A

2"



Reproduction for personal and non-profit use on

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR 3/4" (19mm) THICK LUMBER

11-FRAME BRITISH NATIONAL BEEHIVE


34/62

CONSTRUCTION NOTES11-FRAME BRITISH NATIONAL BEEHIVE

To convert hive to top bee space:

Omit the 1/4" rabbet from the bottom cross piece, and make the rabbet on the top cross piece 15/16" deep

(still leaving a 1/2" shoulder). When assembling, the bottom of the end walls t ush with the bottom of

the side walls, and the top edges of the metal runners nish up 11/16" below the top edges of the side walls

Shallow Super:

The construction of the super is identical to that of the brood chamber, except that the overall depth is 5-7/8

Refer to the illustrations for the Brood Chamber, but note the dierence in depth.

Crown Board:

Made from softwood at least 3/8" thick and with rabbeted, or tongue and groove joints, or plywood at least

1/4 thick. A bee space of 1/4" on each side by framing with four strips of wood 17-1/8" x 7/8". Arrange stripsso that at any corner the joint on one face is at right angles to the corresponding corner joint on the

other face (see illustration). Alternatively the board may be rabbeted into a frame so that a 1/4" bee space is

provided on each side. Two openings in the board 1-1/16" x 3" adapted to receive Porter bee escapes, one

centered and the other parallel to it with its center 3" from the edge of the board. Fit the edge strips to the

board paying attention to the arrangement of the strips at the corners. Glue may be used - bear in mind tha

if the crownboard is stuck down well by the bees, it may require considerable prying from a hive tool to

dislodge it.

If the board is used over a top bee space arrangement, the edge strips on the underside of the board should

be omitted, otherwise the bees will build brace comb above the frames in the additional space provided if

the strips are present. The strips on the upper face of the crownboard, for use when it doubles as a clearingboard, should be 3/8" thick rather than 1/4".

Roof:

Inside measurement of roof is 18-3/4" x 18-3/4" x 5-3/4". Top boards should not be less than 3/8" thick, and

side walls not less than 1/2" thick. Corners should be box jointed and nailed both ways. If using rabbeted

joints for the corners, the lumber should not be less than 5/8" thick. Roof should be covered with non-rustin

metal or other waterproof material extending at least 1-1/2" down the side. Attach four wooden strips each

18" long and 1-1/4" x 3/4" cross section, tted round the top inside to give a head space of 1-1/4" above the

crown board. Drill ventilation holes 3/4" diameter centered through the sides of the roof and spacing strips,and backed non-rusting wire mesh. Assemble the four sides of the roof , taking care to nail the corners in bo

directions, then t the top boards, nailing them through onto the side boards along all four sides. Next t th

four strips to provide the head space, then cover with waterproof cover before completing the ventilation

holes.


35/62

TOP HOLE2-1/2" Dia.

2-1/2" Dia.

AIR REGULATOR HOLE

2-1/2" Dia.

BeeVac - Outer Box

FRONT

HOS

BACK

HINGES

LATCH

Dimensions - (if using butt joints)

TopTop - 1/2" Plywood - 20" x 15-1/2"Front & Back - 1/2" Plywood - 20" x 1-1/8"Sides - (2 pc.) - 1/2" Plywood - 14-1/2" x 1-1/8"

Use a 2.5" (64mm) fine-tooth hole-saw to cut the holes (or rough-tooth in reverse).Rubber/foam weatherstripping is place between the top & bottom.Use silicone & mount the 2-1/2" to 2-1/4" vacuum hose adapter (or common vacuum hose coupler). Once

dry, break loose the attachment with a twist. The silicone should remain on the wood for a good seal.Sand & coat all surfaces with varnish or poly finish for easy cleaning.

BottomBottom - 1/2" Plywood - 20" x 15-1/2"Front & Back - 1/2" Plywood - 20" x 7-7/8"Sides - (2 pc.) - 1/2" Plywood - 14-1/2" x 7-7/8"

7-3/4"

7-3/4"

1

5-1/2"

10"

20"

1

0"

5"

8-3/8"

3-1/2"

4-5/8"

1-5/8"

.1999.BeeSource.com/Matthew Westall - All Rights Reserv


Matthew Westall: [email protected] for personal and non-profit use only.


36/62

BeeVac Outer Box - Underside of Top

BeeVac Outer Box - spacers to hold inner box:

-1/8" Hardware Cloth - staple to underside of top surrounding air-regulatorto keep bees outside the box from getting sucked into the box andinto the vacuum.

-Leave the hole to the wet-vac motor open as the edges of the motor willlikely stick down below the 1/2" plywood top. As long as the 'inner box'is solidly 'bee-proof', no bees should be sucked up through the vacuum.

Leave the vacuummotor hole open as themotor will likely stickdown below the 1/2"plywood top.

Front

Spacers

VacuumHose-side

Outer Box -Bottom

Back

Front & Back - Qty(2) - 1/2" x 7/16" x 19"Side - 1/2" x 7/16" x 13-1/2"

Cross section - round off corner oninside edges of spacer.

1/8" Hardware Cloth

1/2"

7/16"

.1999.BeeSource.com/Matthew Westall - All Rights Reserve




37/62

SIDE

7

-1/4"

7-1/4"

13-1/2"

1"

3"

18-3/8"

18-3/8"

12-1/2"

1"

1"

Sides - Qty(2)(hose side shown- no hole onopposing side)12-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 1/2"

Front & Back - Qty(2)18-3/8" x 7-1/4" x 1/2"

Note:For a precise match,drill the vacuum holewhile the inner boxis mounted in theouter box (with spacersin place) using theouter vacuum hole asa guide. If the bit 'bites'too much try cutting byreversing the bit.

Attach " L " shaped plasteredging to the bottom of bothfront & back with 3/8" clearanceto allow bottom to slide off.

1/8" HARDWARE CLOTH STAPLED TO

INSIDE OF BOTH SIDES.

Bottom panel -18-3/8" x 13-7/16" x 1/4"(round edges for smoothmovement)

TOP - 18-3/8" x 13-1/2" x 1/4"

HANDLE

BeeVac - Inner Box

VACUUM HOLE2-1/2" Dia.

See: http://www.beesource.com/plans/beevac/306.htmfor photo of detail.

7-3/4"

.1999.BeeSource.com/Matthew Westall - All Rights [email protected]/www.beesource.com

Matthew Westall: [email protected]



38/62

Bee Vac Notes

These are really easy to make and are COMPLETELY invaluable in catching hard-to reach swarms or removing existing hives.

I've modified the design of another beekeeper to accept most any wet-vac or other vacuum to hook up to the box. The most important thing withbee-vacuums is that you need to regulate the pressure so it doesn't whip the bees into the inside 'bee-catcher" box (which has sidewall ventsmade of harware mesh and allows air to pass & suck up into the vacuum, trapping the bees behind the mesh inside the box). If they hit theinside box too hard, they'll die. It's a very depressing feeling to find thousands of dead bees inside the vacuum so please pay closeattention to the amount of suction. If you have too much, you'll feel their bodies bump hard down the vacuum hose - just the right amount &you can barely feel them fly down the hose. All you need is just enough suction to make it halfway annoying (to you & the bees) on trying tovacuum them off their comb (or tree...etc). Too much & they'll rip right off their comb (& rip the bees off nearby comb) but you'll

find them all dead inside the box. Just the right amount lets a few try to hang onto the inside top-edge of the hose for a second...beforegetting sucked into the inside box.

Thinking of building your own?If you catch swarms or wish to pull feral hives, you'll absolutely want to buy or build a bee-vacuum (provided electricity is close by).

Here's the idea:Inside box - rectangular shape box with a removable bottom (mine slides on & off) and has hardware mesh on either side. Cut a single 2" hole tomatch up to a vacuum hose which is inserted through both the vacuum box & this box.....i.e..direct connection to the outside vacuum hose.

Vacuum box: - holds the inside box which contain the bees. You'll cut two openings: first for the outside hose to attach to the inside boxand second to attach to any vacuum device (I use a 1.5 hp wet-vac which I removed off the top of a $30 vac from Wal-mart - this is removable andyou can insert a 2" hose from another wet-vac if you need more pressure - ...any vacuum device which hooks up to the 2" hole I've cut at the top.

Inside this vacuum box, you'll need to brace the inside box to keep it from being sucked up to the vacuum (I use a couple 1" wood blocks).As well, you need about 1/2" to 1" around the two wire-mesh sides of the inside box so air flow can get sucked out (leaving the bees contained).

The kicker is the regulation of the air-flow.....all you need to do is cut a 2-1/2" or so hole on the top of the box (at least 6" away from thevacuum) and use wire-mesh to keep nearby bees from entering. To regulate the pressure, cut a piece of plastic, tin, tape....anything and

mount it to a screw above the hole. This way you can move the piece in front of the hole in varying degrees and it'll cut off outside air fromentering as it forces more air to pull through the vacuum hose.

Any dimensions will work. I've read of one beekeeper using a lunch box to catch bees. (Though I've rarely seen the opportunity to catch such asmall bunch of bees....nor would I want to). During swarm season, you might need several inside boxes.....when one gets full, just pull it outof the vacuum box & insert another (tape the exposed hole on the full box, or use a square piece of something which swivels open & closedmanually).

Mine cost around $140 with fine 1/2" pressboard flamed maple and clear-coat. If I used 1/2" plywood, I could have built the thing for$20-$30 (plus another $30-$35 for the 2hp vacuum, if needed). The inside boxes can be constructed of most any sturdy material.

Other particulars:Cardboard won't work (I've tried) as the force of suction from even a 1 hp motor will crumple the box into nothing. 1/2" wood is what I usedfor the outside box and 1/8" for the inside boxes. Plastic edge-guard (normally used on drywall) is good material for the rails on the bottomof the inside boxes, so you could simply slide open the bottom of the box & knock the bees out into a hive. My outside box has a hinged top &bottom so I can quickly remove the inside boxes. Any method of removing the inside box (& bees) is fine.

This idea has saved me hundreds of stings and saved the lives of alot of bees (I wouldn't pull feral hives without one). If you've ever tried toremove an existing feral hive without a bee-vacuum, I'm sure you've sworn off ever doing it again. Try it by vacuuming off the majority of

bees first - then remove the comb one by one & vacuum the bees off each comb as you go. With less bees in the air & on the ground you'll haveless of a chance at any unhappy bee-meeting. Plus the bees seem to know they're in trouble when you vacuum off most of their population - therest will likely remain extremely timid. At the end of the day you'll have more salvageable comb (put back into empty frames and tie withcotton string or rubber-bands) cleaner honey (without 1000's of bee-parts) and a bunch more live bees.

The idea behind the 'bee-vacuum' is exceptionally simple in design and you'll have much more fun in retrieving swarms or hives. Good luck.

Other Notes:1) My inside boxes fit tightly into the BeeVac. If the spacers don't grip the sides firmly, the builder will need to place a wooden spacer bar (1" or so)

to the top cover on the inside cover of the BeeVac to keep the inside box from sucking up to the bottom of the vacuum.

2) You'll find making multiple inside boxes isn't difficult or expensive. Having two or more on hand will come in VERY handy when picking up severalswarms or one large one on the same day.

3) When you've collected the bees, just place the box on top of a hive, pull out the bottom & hit the top to knock the bees out into your hive.

4) During operation, the MOST important feature is the airflow regulator. With the 1.5hp motor pictured, I'll usually close the regulator down to 2/3 to 3/4closed. If you feel the bees 'bumping' down the hose - you're likely killing them. Only enough pressure should be used that the bees are almostable to grip the hose end. An improvement over this BeeVac would be the use of a smoothbore vacuum hose (which won't collapse with suction) - suc

as pool pressure-capable hose commonly found at Home Depot.

5) The inside box in these pictures has a piece of rubber carpet padding toward the back of the box so bees have a softer landing. If you use anything tosoften their landing, it should be made of something durable & washable.

6) The vacuum in this BeeVac was purchased for $35 from WalMart and easily disassembled to mount onto the outside box. I've never had the occasionto need more vacuum pressure, but this BeeVac will accept any Wet-Vac with a 2" hose simply by removing the BeeVac from the top (attached bywhatever means you choose....I leave mine un-attached as the suction alone will keep it on the box).

7) To get the inside box to easily install & remove, round off the inside edges of the spacers a bit - especially to the rear.

8) This box weighs approx 25 lbs. complete, using 1/2" Birch plywood. 3/4" plywood will make the box stronger (unnecessary unless you plan on droppinthe thing from trees) but the weight will prove uncomfortable in tight situations. I plan onconstructing a 'flexible', smaller version of this vacuum out of 1/4" plywood so I can strapit to my back in retrieving bees from high trees & houses. The use of clear plastic mightbe interesting to beekeepers & bystanders alike to see the bees being vacuumed up.

.1999.BeeSource.com/Matthew Westall - All Rights Res



by Matthew Westall


39/62

WOO

DSAPIDICTORM

K.4&5-Circuit

R10

22K

R14

150K

TR5

OC71

(NKT224)

TR4

AC107

(NKT226)

TR6

OC71

(NKT224)

R16

220

RV1

2K

R12

2.7K

~

A.O.T.

C11

1

V1

VM160

R26

150K

R25

33K

C10

100

D1

OA85

TR9

OC71

(NKT224)

TR8

OC71

(NKT224)

TR7

OC71

(NKT224)

Phone

R20

68K

R24

10K

R23

47K

R22

100

C9

25

R21

22K

C8

0.1

C7

10

R19

2.7K

R18

470

22K

T1

C13

2200p

C14

2200p

22K

OC71

(NKT

224)

OC71

(NKT

224)

R15

68K

C6

10

C20

4400p

L2

40.8H

L3

7H

C19

5500p

68K

1

2

3

a

c

b

d

C15

.033

L1

18.8H

C21

51,400p

C17

41,200p

C

18

2200p

C16

33,000p

C4

10

Note:

Thiscircuitshowsthe

MKIVversion.TheMKV

usedthetransistortypes

showninbracketsand

thesecomponentchanges:

R4was15K

C8was1mfd.

C11wenttoearthinstead

ofthenegativerail.

R28wasshuntedby

acapacitor,value

unspecified.

Insomemodelsacapacitor

hasbeenfoundinseries

withthemicrophoneinput.

Aserialnumberiswritten

onthemetalchassisby

the'on'button.

*A.O.T.=AdjustOnTest

R29

100

R27

220K

R28

220K

-9v.

S1

C1

50

R1

2.2M

R3

220K

R5

4.7

K

R2

47KTR

1

OC20

2

(OC70

2)

TR2

OC202

(OC702)

TR3

AC107

(NKT226)

R8

33K

R6

220K

R4

33K

C2

10

R11

10K

C5

10

R9

4.7K

C3

10

R13

10K

R7

22K

R17

470

MIC

.1999-2002.T.R.Boys-AllRightsReserved.


Reproductionforpersonalandnon-profituseonly.


40/62

The Extractor Box.

The two side pieces are 26 3/4" X 23 3/4" X 3/4" plywood.The front and rear are 27 1/2" X 23 3/4" X 3/4" plywood.With a 3/4" X 3/8" rabbet down each side.The bottom is 26 3/4" X 26 3/4" X 3/4" Plywood.The cover is made of two pieces. One is stationaryand measures 26" X 14 3/4" X 3/4". The other cover ismovable and measures 26" X 11 1/8" X 3/4".The front cover rest on a cleat (1) which is in the insideof the box and measures 26" X 1" X 3/4".There is a 3/8" X 3/4" dado 3/4" from the bottom edgeon all four panels. (See Figure 1A.)to hold the bottom in place.A honey gate is attached to a floor flange.Mark the center of the bottom before assembling the box.(See Figure 1B, the dotted lines.)

3/8" X 3/4" dado

Figure 1A

Figure 1 Covers, hinge and handle(1)

Figure 1B

Bottom

3/4"

The Yankee Beekeepers Twenty Frame ExtractorPage 1

.1997.David F. Verville - All Rights [email protected]/www.beesource.coReproduction for personal and non-profit use o


41/62



Frame rest router jig.

1/2" holes

1-1/2

"

3"

10-3/4"

Jigs to assist in making the extractor.

Circle cutting router jig

11-1/2"

Make a hole large enough for the router bitto pass through.11-1/2" from the cutting edge of the router bit,drill the pilot hole. Mount router to jig.

1/2"hole

10-3/4"

26"

2" 2"


42/62


STEP 1: Using a piece of 3/4" solid core plywood. (24 X 24 X 3/4)and the circle cutting jig, cut out a circle 23" in diameter.Mark the center of the plywood and drill a 1/2" hole.Using a 1/2 wooden dowel for the pilot place the circle cuttingjig over the plywood and cut out the circle. Using a 1/2" dowelwill make assembly and alignment easier.

The drum.

STEP 2: Glue the 20 frame spacing template to the circle.Be sure to align the centers as close as possible.



43/62

.1997.David F. Verville - All Rights [email protected]/www.beesource.coReproduction for personal and non-profit use

Glue this page down on top of the bottomdrum centering the pilot hole and the center

of this template. Then using the framerest router jig, router out the framerest areas.


Frame Rest template.

1

6

11

16


44/62

.1997.David F. Verville - All Rights [email protected]/www.beesource.com


The drum.

STEP 3: Using a 1/2" wooden dowel place the frame rest router jigover the plywood circle. Then using the outer two holes line upthe jig so that the template lines are centered. Clamp the jigdown to the circle and route out the area for the frame rests.Cut at least 3/8" deep. After removing the material, rotate the

jig 18 degrees, line up the next set of lines and route out theframe rest area. Repeat for all twenty frame rests.

Cut out this area.

STEP 5: After routering out the twenty frame rests andcutting out the top bar notches the circle should looksomething like this.(Where the black indicates that material has been removed.)Sand all rough areas and apply at least two coats of afood grade poly.

STEP 4: See below for the next step.Using a couping saw, cut out the "top bar" area asindicated in the detail. The top bar of the frame fitsdown into this opening while the flat side of the end barsits on the drum.

top bar area

Cut out a notch that is centeredbetween the frame rests

1-1/8" X 1/2" on alltwenty frame rest areas.



45/62

.1997.David F. Verville - All Rights [email protected]/www.beesource.com



STEP 6: Wrap 1/2" mesh around the outside of the drum.Using (1) piece of 1/2" 16ga aluminum strapping and stainlesssteel screws secure the bottom of the mesh to the drum.To form the cage top, use two pieces of strapping.Form one strap on the inside of the cage and form another

around the outside of the cage. Secure the two straps togetherwith the mesh in the middle using either SS screws or rivets.

The frame cage.

Mesh is 19-1/2" high.

The upper cage support is 2" X 2" X 3/4 as shown below.Mark the center of the support and drill a 1/2" hole.Then on the four edges drill a hole from the outer edge tothe center hole. Drill this hole slightly smaller than a #10rod.(Drill bit #14 is fine.)

The frame cage (Upper Cage Support).

2" X 2" X 3/4"

1/2" hole

4 threaded rods (10 X 24) X 12" are threaded into thefour #10 holes in the sides of the Upper cage support block.Thread each rod into the block so that it is just shy of thehole in the center of the block.(Do not attached this block to the cage just yet!)

#14 drill bithole


46/62

.1997.David F. Verville - All Rights [email protected]/www.beesource.comReproduction for personal and non-profit use o

The bearings supporting blocks.

Using 3/4" stock cut out the two bearing supportblock as shown below.

Lower Support Upper Support

4 X 4 X 3/4" 2 1/2" X 5" X 3/4"

1-3/8"hole

The Drive block.

Using 3/4" stock cut out the drive block as shown below.

3 X 3 X 3/4"

1/2"hole

3/16" X 3/8"dado (kerf)



47/62

.1997.David F. Verville - All Rights [email protected]/www.beesource.comReproduction for personal and non-profit use only.

Threaded rods

nuts

Upper Cage Support

Top of cage

Axle

Cage bottom.

3/16" tension pinDrive block

axle

Push a 3/16" tension pin throughthe hole drilled in the axle.

Slide the drive block onto the axlealigning the 3/16" dado and thetension pin. Attach the drive blockto the bottom of the cage. UseSS screws.

The Axle

Using a solid 1/2" (x 30") rod, drill a 3/16"hole as shown below.

1"

The Axle and Cage Assembly

Slide the upper cage support over the axle and attach the fourthreaded rods to the top of the cage. Drill a holethrough the strapping at the top of the cage. Attach usingstainless steel nuts. Use two nuts on each rod. One on theinside of the cage and another on the outside of the cage.Measure and adjust each supporting rod so that the outeredge of the cage is equal from the axle.

Attaching the Upper Cage Support.



48/62

.1997.David F. Verville - All Rights [email protected]/www.beesource.comReproduction for personal and non-profit use on

Final Assembly.


After the extractor box has been assembled, sand any rough

wood and finish the insides with at least two coatsof a good food grade poly.Use Stainless screws and glue.Make sure the joints are tight and that the box is square.Drill a hole the same diameter as the inside diameter of thefloor flange in the front of the box.Attach a floor flange onto the front of the box.Align the inside hole with the very bottom of the box.Secure with stainless screws.

Attach the lower bearing block to the bottom of the box.The previous marked center will assist in locating thisposition. Attach using stainless screws.

Place the lower bearing into the supporting block.Then carefully place a 1/2" stainless steel washer overthe lower bearing. Carefully lower the cage assembly intothe box. Make sure the axle goes through the washer andinto the bearing.Measure the distance from the axle to the back of the box andtransfer this measurement to the stationary cover.Drill a hole at least 1" in diameter.Position the stationary cover so that theaxle extends through the 1" hole. Attach the stationarycover to the box. Lower the upper bearing and supportblock onto the axle. Be sure theaxle is vertical and doesnt wobble around. When satisfied,secure the upper block to the stationary cover.

Attach the movable cover using hinges and attach a handlein a comfortable position.

The kit!

A kit that contains the following items is availablefrom the designer.Kit contains the two bearings, the upper and lowerbearing support block, the drive block with tensionpin and the upper cage support block. All holes arepredrilled. Specify either 1/2 or 5/8 axle.All of the blocks are made using a hard nylon for years

of dependable use. Cost of the kit is $19.95 plusshipping. For more information contact:

D.F. Verville10 Center CirclePO BOX 509Plaistow, NH 03865([email protected])


49/62

( DOUBLE WALLED HIVE )

610

610

505

505

203

203

546

546

520

514

90

40

38

PLAN VIEW

EXTERNAL

(2) SIDES

(2) FRONT & BACK

ROOF - 16mm THICK

25mm HOLES COVEREDWITH WIRE MESH ORBEE ESCAPE CONES

FIX 16x16 BEADING TO INSIDE OF FRAME13mm UP FROM BOTTOM ON ALL SIDES

LIFT WITH PORCH1 PER HIVE

LIFT3 PER HIVE

(2) FRONT & BACK

(2) SIDES

ALL MEASUREMENTS FROM TOP EDGE

10-FRAME W.B.C. BEE HIVE

19

3

19

19

19

13

16mm





50/62


TOP SECTION INTERNAL

END BOARDS SIDE BOARDS

BOTTOM SECTION

BROOD CHAMBER

A

A

A

A

B

B

B

B

C

C

435

16

16 16

16

16

16

1610

1610

10

12

16

372

392

225206

200

206 200

34 3418

OR

34 x 10 x 418 34 x 10 x 418

418 x 10 x 22

38 x 10 x 42

METAL RUNNER

SUPER DIMENSIONS ARETHE SAME AS BROODCHAMBER EXCEPT ONLY150 DEEP.

(SIDE BOARDS ARE:

132 OR 126 )

16 x 16 x 386

3mm DEEPSLOTS

INTERNAL DIMENSIONS372 x 386

SIDE

BOARD

TUNNEL STRIP BLOCK.PROVIDES ACCESS FROMENTRANCE IN BOTTOM LIFTTO BROOD CHAMBER WHILEBLOCKING ACCESS TO

CAVITY BETWEEN BOXES.

3

6 6

106


'.1999.BeeSource.com - All Rights Reserved




51/62

660

343 318

505 165

455

372

16

16

16

435

505

76

22

44

10

180

70

418 386165

(2) SIDES

(2) TOP BOARD

(2) WEDGE PIECES

(2) ALIGHTING BOARD

PLAN OF BROOD CHAMBER

FLOOR

POSITION BY PLACING

LIFT ON FLOOR BOARD.

1) LEG BRACE: 57 x 16 x 460

1) BACK BOARD: 76 x 16 x 505

BATTEN: 38 x 13 x 505

HEIGHT STRIPS:

(SET IN 18mm FROM EDGES)

2) 51 x 10 x 470

1) 64 x 10 x 368


BEVEL BOARD TO FIT ATPOINT

BEVEL BOARD TO FIT AT

POINT

19

A

A

A






52/62

LEGS

PORCHENTRANCE SLIDES

ALTERNATIVE PORCH


21619

19

22

25

19

19

197

222

241

146

146

492

70

48

73

7076

76

19

22

22

1335

2) FRONT

2) BACK

LEGS CONSTRUCTED FROM76 x 51 TIMBER.

RABBETS TO SIDES OF HIVES.FRONT & BACK ATTACH INSIDEOF SIDE BEAMS. USE SCREWS.

SPACING STRIP

19 x 14 x 457

C

C

A

A

B

B

A

BC

BOTTOM LIFT


57 x 16 x 457

2) 35 X 11 X 280

50 x 13 x 457

TO TAPER TO FIT SLOPE OF LIFT

ATTACH PORCH 3mm UP FROM

BOTTOM OF LIFT.

SLIDES TOGETHER TO FORM SMALL ENTRANCE

SLIGHTLY TAPER TOP BAR TO SHED WATER

TOP BAR: 492 x 70 x 19

TAPER TO SUIT ANGLE OF LIFT (3m

SIDE BAR: 492 x 70 x 22

SCREW TO BOTTOM LIFT LEAVING

3mm CLEAR OF BOTTOM.

RABBET FOR SLIDES: 35 x 10





53/62


24"

24"

19-7/8"

19-7/8"

8"

8"

21-1/2"

21-1/2"

20-1/2"

20-1/4"

3-1/2"

1-1/2"

1-1/2"

PLAN VIEW

EXTERNAL

(2) SIDES

(2) FRONT & BACK

ROOF BOARDS24" X 5/8" X 12"

1" HOLES COVEREDWITH WIRE MESH ORBEE ESCAPE CONES

FIX 5/8"x5/8" BEADING TO INSIDE OF FRAME1/2" UP FROM BOTTOM ON ALL SIDES

LIFT WITH PORCH1 PER HIVE

LIFT3 PER HIVE

(2) FRONT & BACK

(2) SIDES

ALL MEASUREMENTS FROM TOP EDGE

DETAILS FOR 5/8" THICK LUMBER


3/4"

1/8"

3/4"

3/4"

1/2"

3/4"

5/8"





54/62


TOP SECTION INTERNAL

END BOARDS SIDE BOARDS

BOTTOM SECTION

BROOD CHAMBER

A

A

A

A

B

B

B

B

C

C

17-1/8"

5/8"

5/8" 5/8"

5/8"

5/8"

5/8"

5/8" 3/8" 5/8" 3/8"

3/8"

1/2"

5/8"

14-5/8"

15-3/8"

8-7/8"8-1/8"

7-7/8"

8-1/8" 7-7/8"

1-3/8" 1-3/8"3/4"

OR

1-3/8" x 3/8" x 16-7/16" 1-3/8" x 3/8" x 16-7/16"

16-7/16" x 3/8" x 7/

15-3/16" x 5/8" x 5/

1-1/2" x 3/8" x 16-5/

METAL RUNNER

SUPER DIMENSIONS ARETHE SAME AS BROODCHAMBER EXCEPT ONLY5-15/16" DEEP.

(SIDE BOARDS ARE:

5-3/16" OR 4-15/16"

5/8" x 5/8" x 15-3/16"

1/8" DEEPSLOTS

INTERNAL DIMENSIONS14-5/8" x 15-3/16"

SIDE

BOARD

TUNNEL STRIP BLOCK.PROVIDES ACCESS FROMENTRANCE IN BOTTOM LIFTTO BROOD CHAMBER WHILEBLOCKING ACCESS TOCAVITY BETWEEN BOXES.



1/8"

1/4" 1/4"

3/8"1/4"





55/62

26"

13-1/2" 12-1/2"

19-7/8"

6-1/2"

17-7/8"

14-5/8"

5/8"

5/8"

5/8"

17-1/8"

19-7/8"

3"

7/8"

1-3/4"

3/8"

7-1/8"

2-3/4"

16-1/2" 15-3/16"6-1/2"

(2) SIDES

(2) TOP BOARD

(2) WEDGE PIECES

(2) ALIGHTING BOARD

PLAN OF BROOD CHAMBER

FLOOR

POSITION BY PLACING

LIFT ON FLOOR BOARD.

1) LEG BRACE: 2-1/4" x 5/8" x 18-1/8"

1) BACK BOARD: 3" x 5/8" x 19-7/8"

BATTEN: 1-1/2" x 1/2" x 19-7/8"

HEIGHT STRIPS:

(SET IN 11/16" FROM EDGES)

2) 2" x 3/8" x 18-1/2"

1) 2-1/2" x 3/8" x 14-1/2"



POINT


POINT

THICKNESS: 7/8"



A

3/4"

A

A





56/62

LEGS

PORCH

ENTRANCE SLIDES

ALTERNATIVE PORCH


8-1/2" 3/4"

3/4"

7/8"

1"

3/4"

3/4"

7-3/4"

8-3/4"

9-1/2"

5-3/4"

5-3/4"

19-3/8"

2-3/4"

1-7/8"

2-7/8"

2-3/4"3"

3"

3/4"

7/8"

7/8"

1/2"1-3/8"

2) FRONT

2) BACK

LEGS CONSTRUCTED FROM2" x 3" WOOD.

RABBETS TO SIDES OF HIVES.FRONT & BACK ATTACH INSIDEOF SIDE BEAMS. USE SCREWS.

SPACING STRIP

3/4" x 7/16" x 18"

C

C

A

A

B

B

A

BC

BOTTOM LIFT 2-1/4" x 5/8" x 18"

2) 1-3/8" X 3/8" X 15"

2" x 1/2" x 18"

TO TAPER TO FIT SLOPE OF LIFT

ATTACH PORCH 1/8" UP FROM

BOTTOM OF LIFT.

SLIDES TOGETHER TO FORM SMALL ENTRANCE

SLIGHTLY TAPER TOP BAR TO SHED WATER

TOP BAR: 19-3/8" x 2-3/4" x 3/4"

TAPER TO SUIT ANGLE OF LIFT (1/8

SIDE BAR: 19-3/8" x 2-3/4" x 7/8"

SCREW TO BOTTOM LIFT LEAVING

1/8" CLEAR OF BOTTOM.

RABBET FOR SLIDES: 1-3/8" x 7/16"







57/62

16-1/4"

16-1/4

"

16-1/4

"

16-1/4"

18-1/8"

5/8"

19-7/8"

22-0"

19-7/8"

19-7/8"

19-7/8"

21-3/4"

5-11/16"

2-1/4"

6-

5/8"

9-

5/8"

16-1/4

"

1-7/8"

3/8"

3/4" x 2" CLEATFOR HANDHOLD

PRE-DRILL & NAILW/ 6d GALV.

3/4" EXT.PLWD.

3/4" EXT. PLWD.COVER W/TIN

1/4" PLYWD.

3/4"

3/4"

3/4"

3/8"

3/8"

5/8"5/8"

BEST DETAILOF FRAMEREST

OPTIONINSIDE DIMENSIONS:L - 18-3/8"W - 14-3/4"D - 9-5/8"

INSIDE DIMENSIONS:L - 20-1/4"W - 16-5/8"D - 1-1/2"

1-1/4"X3-1/2"

HOLE




The species of wood used tomake a beehive can varydepending upon what isavailable in your area. The

minimum thickness should notbe less than 3/4". If you areusing standard dimensionallumber, you can use 1x8 (3/4" x7-1/4") for both shallow andmedium super, and 1x12 (3/4" x11-1/4") for the deep hive body.

Start by cutting the boards tolength. For fronts and backs,cut them a smidgen over 16-

1/4". For sides, cut a smidgenover 19-7/8". At this point,follow the steps described onhow to make a box joint fromthe PDF Box Joint files.

Now that you have the joint cutand the boards cut to finishedsize, cut the 5/8" x 3/8" rabbeton the 16-1/4" boards stopping

just short of the box joint pin at

each end. (Chisel these squareafter the boards areassembled). Note detail offrame rest at left. Pre-drill holesfor nails in each pin.

Assemble boxes with glue andnail each pin with a 6d galv.nail. Attach 1x2 handholds withscrews and glue. Attach metalrabbets on the frame restnotch. Fill any holes and paintall surfaces, both outside andinside and top and bottomedges, with two coats of paint.


10-FRAME LANGSTROTH BEEHIVE

SHALLOWSUPER5-11/16"

OUTERCOVER

INNERCOVER

DADANT (MEDIUM)HONEY SUPER6-5/8"

DEEPHIVE BODY

BOTTOMBOARD


58/62

17-7/8"

15-7/8"

.1998.BeeSource.com/DaveVerville-AllR

ightsReserved.


Reproductionforpersonalandnon-profituse

only.

E

E

E

E

A

A

A

AC

C

C

C

C

C

B

B

B

C

DD

D

E F

FF

F

F

D DPLAN VIEW(Looking Down)

Screen Door Spring / Elastic Cord

SIDE VIEW

FOR 9" FRAMES

Side panels are 17-7/8" x 7-1/8" x 3/4"

Bottom spacers are 1-1/4" x 7/8" x 1/2"

Side spacers are 1-1/2" x 7" x 3/8"

Front & rear panels are 15-7/8" x 3" x 3/4"

Inner supports are 14" x 6" x 3/4"

End supports are 15-7/8" x 3" x 3/4" witha 3/8" x 3/4" rabbet on both ends.

E

A

C

B

D

F

FOR 5" & 6" FRAMES

Side panels are 17-7/8" x 4-7/8" x 3/4"

Bottom spacers are 1-1/4" x 7/8" x 1/2"

Side spacers are 1-1/2" x 4-3/4" x 3/8"

Front & rear panels are 15-7/8" x 1-7/8" x 3/4"

Inner supports are 14" x 3" x 3/4"

End supports are 15-7/8" x 2-1/4" x 3/4"with a 3/8" x 3/4" rabbet on both ends.

10-FRAME ASSEMBLY JIGCONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR 3/4" THICK LUMBER


59/62

.1998.BeeSource.com/Dave Verville - All Rights Reserv



D D

DD

DD

D D

D D

A

A

B B

C

CC

DD

A

EE

F F

C

B B

A

SIDE VIEW

A

SIDE VIEW

ASIDE VIEW

PLAN VIEW

PLAN VIEW

PLAN VIEW

PLAN VIEW

A

SIDE VIEW

SPRING

SPRING

A

SIDE VIEW

TOP BARS HERE

END BARS HERE

10-FRAME ASSEMBLY JIGCONSTRUCTION NOTES

After cutting all of the pieces as described, assemble the jig as follows.

1) Attach (D) to the endsof the side panels (A).

2) Attach the bottom spacers(B) to the inside lower edge

of the side panels (A).

3) Attach the side spacers (C)next to the bottom spacers (B).

4) Slide the inner supports (E) intothe gap between the side spacers

(C) and the front and rear panels (D).DO NOT ATTACH AS THIS

SLIDES OUT after the frames areassembled!5) Attach two screen door springs

to the sides of the end support (F).

Push the "END BARS" into the gap as shown.Attach the TOP BARS.

Flip the jig over and attach the BOTTOM BARSTo remove the frames from the jig, pull up the

end supports (F) and remove the inner supportReplace the inner supports, load up the end bar

and make another perfect batch!

6) Slide the above assembly

over the jig as shown below.


60/62

10-7/8"

5/8"

19-7/8"

22"

19-7/8"

21-3/4"

2-1/4"

9-

5/8"

9"

9"

9"

1-7/8"

3/8"

3/4" x 2" CLEAT

FOR HANDHOLD

PRE-DRILL & NAILW/ 6d GALV.

3/4" EXT.PLWD.

3/4" EXT. PLWD.COVER W/TIN

1/4" PLYWD.

3/4" 3/4"3/4"

3/4"

3/8"

3/8"

5/8"

5/8"

OPTION BOPTION A

3/4"3/8"

5/8"

OPTION C



1-1/4" X 3-1/2"

HOLE




TOP COVER

HIVE BOTTOM AND INNER COVER

19-1/4"

20"

22"

1

0-3/8"

9"

"

The top cover is made from 5 pieces. The stiles and rails are detailedbelow. The cover is made from either 3/8" or 1/2" plywood.

3/4" x 1-1/2" x 9-1/2"

3/4" x 1-1/2" x 22"

Both the hive bottom and inner cover are 20" x 9". Both are made outof 3/8" or 1/2" plywood. The bottom is nailed directly onto the hive body

The two side panels are 19-1/4" by 10-3/8".

The front and rear panels are 9" x 10-3/8". Both panels have a 3/4" x 3/8rabbet down each side and a 5/8" x 3/8" rabbet across the top edge. Thefront panel has a 3/4" x 3" cut out centered on the bottom edge.

Refer to '10-Frame Langstroth Beehive' and

'How to Make a Box Joint' plans for detailson construction.

The Yankee Beekeeper's Five Frame Nuc Box

Side Front Rear

THE HIVE BODY

3/4"x

3/8"Rabbet

5/8" x 3/8" Rabbet

3/4"x

3/8"Rabbet


5-FRAME LANGSTROTH NUCLEUS HIVE

OUTERCOVER

INNERCOVER

DEEP

HIVE BODY

BOTTOMBOARD


61/62

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR 4 NUCS MADE FROM ONE SHEET OF

1/2" (12.7mm) THICK PLYWOOD

5-FRAME NUC BEEHIVE - D. COATES




ITEM

A 8

4

4

4

4

8

8

B

C

D

E

F

G

QTY. DESCRIPTION

Side 10-1/4 x 19-1/8

9 x 22

8-1/2 x 20

7-1/2 x 9-1/2

7-1/2 x 9-1/2

8-1/2 x 2

3/4 x 8-1/2

Top

Bottom

Front

Back

Hive Cleat

Top Cleat

DIMENSIONS

A

A

B

C

D

E

F

F

G

G


62/62

ITEM

A

8444488

BCDEFG

QT

Y.

DESCRIPTION

Side

10-1/4x19-1/8

9x22

8

-1/2x20

7-1/2x9-1/2

7-1/2x9-1/2

8-1/2x2

3

/4x8-1/2

Top

Bottom

Front

Back

HiveCleat

TopCleat

DIMENSIONS

SIDE

A

LAYOUT DIAGRAM FOR 4 x 8 - 1/2 PLYWOOD

5-FRAME NUC BEEHIVE

FRONT

CLEATS

FRONT

FRONT

FRONT

BACK

SIDE

ASIDE

ASIDE

A

SID

E

A

TOP

BD

E

F G

BACKE

BACKE

BACKE

D

D

D

BOTTOM

C

BOTTOM

C

BOTTOM

C

BOTTOM

C

TOP

B

TOP

B

TOP

B

SID

E

A

SID

E

A

SID

E

A

beesource - beehive designs - all

Documents

en o t t o s c

n c es

d ee n dv

n dbottomtops

steel angle12x916 nut

stainless steel

honey supers

shaft nut