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BBRC Tool Training Revision 1 Date: July 1 2012 Page 1 Work Practices for Working in Shop and General Carpentry BBRC programs provide access to basic hand and power tools. The guidelines for working safely apply to all staff and students. The first step in preventing personal injury or machine damage is to make sure that you know how to operate the equipment you will be using correctly. If you are unsure ask! Because the shop is a communal area, used by so many people, it is important to keep the shop and other work areas clean and orderly. Every user must clean their machines and work areas, and put away all tools and material before leaving. Inattention, hurried work, horseplay, bad judgment, fatigue, improper clothing, defective tools, and poorly secured workpieces cause most accidents. Avoid accidents by following all of the rules and asking for help if you are unsure about the safest approach. Only trained and authorized operators may operate tools and equipment This document is divided into three sections: 1) General description of tools to learn terminology 2) Guidelines for safe use of tools 3) Tool tests

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BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 1

Work Practices for Working in Shop and General Carpentry BBRC programs provide access to basic hand and power tools. The guidelines for working safely apply to all staff and students. The first step in preventing personal injury or machine damage is to make sure that you know how to operate the equipment you will be using correctly. If you are unsure – ask! Because the shop is a communal area, used by so many people, it is important to keep the shop and other work areas clean and orderly. Every user must clean their machines and work areas, and put away all tools and material before leaving. Inattention, hurried work, horseplay, bad judgment, fatigue, improper clothing, defective tools, and poorly secured workpieces cause most accidents. Avoid accidents by following all of the rules and asking for help if you are unsure about the safest approach. Only trained and authorized operators may operate tools and equipment This document is divided into three sections:

1) General description of tools to learn terminology 2) Guidelines for safe use of tools 3) Tool tests

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Section 1 – Tools used by BadgerBOTS Air compressor An air compressor is a device that converts power (usually from an electric motor) into kinetic energy by compressing and pressurizing air, which, on command, can be released in quick bursts. The air pressure can be used to drive pneumatic tools but is most commonly used at BadgerBOTS for cleaning up metal chips and particles.

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CHAIN BREAKER The chain-breaker uses a small piston to push the pin out of the links. Then, a master link fits the two unconnected chain links back together. At BadgerBOTS, Chain breaker is used to adjust the length of chain on drive train almost every year.

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CLAMPS AND VISES C-clamps are used to hold work which cannot be held in a vise, or which has to be held for an extended periods of time. They are available in a variety of sizes.

C Clamps Method of use • Select a clamp that has an opening about 1-1/2 to 2 inches wider than the material to be clamped. Glass and highly polished surfaces must be protected. Use brass shims or wooden blocks. Open clamp as wide as it will go. • Align work and protective blocks if required. Place clamp in position, and tighten operating screw until contact is made with material being clamped. • Check alignment of material being clamped. Check that the clamp is applying even pressure over entire surface. Vise The machinist’s bench vise has rough jaws, which prevent the work from slipping. It has a swivel base, allowing the user to position the vise in a better working position. Machinist’s bench vises are usually bolted to a workbench or table. They are used for holding or clamping large, heavy objects.

The machine table vise is a special purpose vise, which may be bolted to a drill press, lathe, or table. It is available in different sizes of jaw width and jaw opening. Machine table vises are used to hold small pieces of wood or metal for machining or drilling operations.

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DRILLS A drill is a tool or implement with cutting edges or a pointed end for boring holes in hard materials. It also can be used to tightened fasteners by using a driver ‘bit’. Drill bits may look similar but are optimized for use with wood and metal so be careful to select correct type.

Power Drill (Hand)

Drill Bits Counter sink – a special bit and procedure for enlarging a hole at the top so that the head of a screw or bolt will lie flush with or below the surface of the material.

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FASTENERS A fastener mechanically joins two or more objects together. Bolts, Screws and Nails are the most familiar ones. Bolted joints and screws are often stronger than a glued or nailed joint. The primary reason is glues and nails hold two materials together, while a bolt actually squeezes the joint together with a clamping force. In normal use, a nut-and-bolt joint holds together because the bolt is under a constant tensile stress called the preload. The preload pulls the nut threads against the bolt threads, and the nut face against the bearing surface, with a constant force, so that the nut cannot rotate without overcoming the friction between these surfaces. Often the limiting factor in a joint is the material itself, not the bolt or screw. Nuts and Bolts and Screws come in many different sizes in either metric or English units. General rule: Say “Righty Tighty – Lefty Loosey” to remember which way to turn fastener.

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Types of Nuts

Washers Whenever you use a bolted joint, whether you are using a screw or a bolt and nut, you should always use washers. Washers distribute the load over the washer area instead of just the bolt head area. Washers also help prevent nuts and bolts from coming loose during operation, especially when vibration is present.

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Nails Wood nails are not used often at BadgerBOTS. During field construction, nails or wood screws can be used. Note, driving nails at a slight angle into wood is better than hammering the nails straight into the work. If nails are angled towards each other then it is more difficult for the two pieces of wood to be pulled apart. A punch can then be used to tap the heads of the nail slightly below the surface of the wood.

Rivets Rivets are one of the oldest and most time tested methods of fastening. In general, riveting involves placing the shank of the rivet through a hole in two or more materials. The protruding end of this shank is then "cinched" or closed so that the shank cannot be removed and the materials cannot be seperated easily. BadgerBOTS uses a hand riveter to cinch rivets.

Velco In 1948, George de Mestral, a Swiss amateurmountaineer and inventor, took his dog for a hike. The man and dogs returned home covered with burrs. He looked under microscope and saw all the small hooks that enabled the seed-bearing burr to cling to the tiny loops in the fabric of his pants. Decided to design a unique, two-sided fastener, one side with stiff hooks and the other side with soft loops. Called invention 'velcro' a combination of the word velour and crochet. Finished the design, patented in 1955.

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FILES (AND TOOLS For Finishing) Deburring Tool Most cutting operations leave a sharp edge called a “burr.” The deburring tool is used to clean the burrs on edges of a material that have been machined or cut. Use tool to “break” sharp edge.

Deburring Tool Files Files are used for cutting, smoothing off, or removing small amounts of metal, wood, plastic, or other material. Files are made in various lengths, shapes, and cuts. Every file has five parts: the point (1) edge (2) face or cutting teeth, (3) heel or shoulder, (4) and tang (5). The tang is used to attach the handle. Most files have forward-facing cutting teeth, and cut most effectively when pushed over the workpiece. Pulling a file directly backwards on a workpiece will cause the teeth to bend, permanently damaging the file (especially when an inexperienced user adopts a back-and-forth "sawing" motion). The cut of the file refers to how fine its teeth are. They are defined as (from roughest to smoothest): rough, middle, bastard, second cut, smooth, and dead smooth. A single-cut file has one set of parallel teeth while a cross-cut or double-cut file has a second set of cuts forming diamond teeth.

Single-cut files are used with light pressure for smooth surfaces or to put a keen edge on cutting surfaces. Double-cut files are used under heavier pressure and where a rougher finish is permissible.

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SANDPAPER Sandpaper is an abrasive originally made by gluing grains of sand to heavy paper sheets. Today sandpaper is made primarily with quartz, aluminum oxide, or silicon carbide grains, and is graded according to the size of the grains. It is used for smoothing and polishing, for removing old paint or varnish, and for otherwise preparing wood surfaces for refinishing or other treatment. What is grit? When talking about sandpaper "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of sandpaper. The lower the grit the rougher the sandpaper and conversely, the higher the grit number the smoother the sandpaper.

Grit Common Name and Use

40 to 60 Coarse - Heavy sanding and stripping, roughing up the surface.

80 to 120 Medium - Smoothing of the surface, removing smaller imperfections and marks.

150 to 180 Fine Final sanding pass before finishing the wood

220 to 240 Very Fine - Sanding between coats of stain or sealer.

280 to 320 Extra Fine - Removing dust spots or marks between finish coats

360 to 600 Super Fine – Super fine sanding of the finish to remove some luster or surface blemishes and scratches.

Sandpaper

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HAMMERS The carpenter’s hammer is used for driving and pulling nails and tapping chisels. There are two types of claws:

Curved claw straight claw. Parts of a hammer are as follows: 1) claw, 2) eye, 3) handle, 4) neck, 5) striking face and 6) cheek.

All machinists peen hammers have a flat striking face on one end of the head for striking punches and chisels. The other end of the head can be one of the following: A ball peen hammer is used for forming soft metal, peening rivet heads, and striking metal in out-of-the- way places.

Rubber or plastic mallets are used when hammering softer materials that can easily be damaged.

Rubber Mallet

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VERNIER CALIPERS Vernier calipers are used to measure the distance between two opposing sides of an object. Calipers are required for making highly accurate measurements.

Parts of a vernier caliper:

1. Outside jaws: used to measure external diameter or width of an object 2. Inside jaws: used to measure internal diameter of an object 3. Depth probe: used to measure depths of an object or a hole 4. Main scale: 5. Vernier scale gives interpolated measurements

Instead of using a vernier mechanism, which requires some practice to use, the dial caliper reads the final fraction of a millimeter or inch on a simple dial.

An electronic digital display displayd reading as a single value.

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MICROMETERS Micrometers are instruments used to measure distances to the nearest one-thousandth of an inch. The measurement is usually expressed or written as a decimal. Spin the thimble until the object being measured is squeezed between anvil and spindle. Similar to vernier calipers, micrometers are often fitted with dial gauges or electronic read out displays. See diagram below for parts of micrometer.

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TAPE MEASURES The tape measure is used for measuring where accuracy is not an extremely critical factor. They can be rigid or flexible, come in various lengths, and can be made of wood, metal, cloth, or fiberglass. A ruler usually has different sets of graduations, one on each edge of each side. The longest lines typically represent the inch marks. Smaller marks are used to denote 1/2”, 1/4", 1/8”, ... but the graduations are usually not numbered individually.

Measuring tapes designed for carpentry or construction often use a stiff, curved metallic ribbon

that can remain stiff and straight when extended, but retracts into a coil for convenient storage.

This type of tape measure will have a floating tang (metal plate at end) that will float a distance

equal to its thickness, to provide both inside and outside measurements that are accurate.

General rule: Measure twice, cut once.

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RULERS Metric Rulers Metric rulers are fairly easy to read. They deal with centimeters and millimeters only. You won’t have to worry much about fractions.

The larger lines with numbers are centimeters, and the smallest lines are millimeters. Since millimeters are 1/10th of a centimeter, if you measure 7 marks after a centimeter, it is 1.7 centimeters long. English Rulers English rulers, are much more difficult to read - because they use fractions.

A ruler marked in 8ths. Every mark is 1/8th of an inch.

A ruler marked in 16ths. Every mark is 1/16th of an inch.

The center mark between numbers is 1/2.

The next smallest marks on a ruler are 1/4ths. The red marks on these rulers are at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1. (1/2 is the same as 2/4)

The next smallest marks on a ruler are 1/8ths. The red marks on these rulers are at 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, and 1.

The next smallest mark, if there are any, are 1/16ths. The red marks on this ruler are at 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 13/16, 7/8, 15/16, and 1.

When marking down a distance from a ruler, mark the whole inch, followed by a space, then the fraction of an inch. For example, 1 1/2, or 2 3/8.

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PLIERS Pliers have three components: handles, jaws and a pivot. Pliers are used to grip, turn or even cut by multiplying the force its user applies. Pliers can be divided into two basic types: those with a slip joint, and those with a fixed joint. Never attempt to cut a live wire, even with linemen’s pliers. Always match the pliers to the job. Don’t try to turn a stubborn nut with needle-nose pliers, for example; they’ll slip, you could be injured and they definitely won’t get the job done. Slip-Joint Pliers: The jaws on slip-joint pliers can open to multiple widths by moving, or slipping, the pivot into corresponding grooves. Plier jaws may be flat or have teeth for gripping power. Fixed-Joint Pliers: Though they aren’t adjustable, fixed-joint pliers are just as essential as the slip-joint variety. Locking fixed-joint pliers have become known by their first brand name, Vise-Grip®. The user can lock the pliers while gripped, letting the tool exert the pressure. Also includes a quick-release handle. Linemen’s pliers: Insulated handles make these safer for electrical applications. They’re markedly heavier than standard pliers. Needle-nose pliers: These slender pliers come to a fine point and are perfect for picking up and gripping very small objects. Diagonal pliers: Also known as side cutters, these pliers are designed to snip wire — often steel, iron, brass or copper. Bolt cutters: Long handles and short jaws help deliver maximum bite with minimum effort, making these useful for cutting chains, wire mesh and, of course, bolts.

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PUNCHES There are two basic types of punches; solid (1) are the most common, and hollow (2) which are usually designed for punching holes in leather, paper, and other similar materials. Solid punches are used to mark metal, drive pins, align holes and to do other similar jobs.

There are two types of center punches, both used for starting drill holes. The hand-held type has a narrow, cone-shaped point terminating in a sharp, conical tip. The hand-held punch must be struck with a hammer. The automatic type contains a tension spring for marking the spot without the use of a hammer. Just press down firmly against work until hear the snap.

Hand Held Punch

Automatic Punch

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REAMERS Reamers are used to enlarge and true a hole. They are also used to remove burrs from the inside diameters of pipes and drilled holes. The reamer consists of three parts, the body (1), the shank (2), and the blades (3). The shank has a square tang to allow the reamer to be held with a wrench for turning.

Reamer

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THREAD GAUGES Thread gauges are to determine the thread pitch and diameter of bolts and machine screws. There are two types: American standard and metric.

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SAWS Hand saws are tools with thin, flat steel blades that have a row of spaced “teeth” along the edge. The blade is fastened to a handle. Saws are available in various sizes and designs depending on their use and the material to be cut. Common hand saws for wood include:

Crosscut Saw: Cut across the grain of wood with this common handsaw.

Ripsaw: It looks like a crosscut saw, but this handsaw rips through the grain of wood like a chisel.

Backsaw: This saw has a stiff blade, making it ideal for angle cuts and trimming molding.

Keyhole Saw: With a removable blade, this saw is used for cutting openings that are too large for a drill.

Coping Saw: The thin blade of this saw allows the user to make contoured or smooth fine-line cuts.

Hacksaw, fine-toothed tempered blade under tension for cutting metal, bone, and other hard materials. The blade is held to the saw frame by pins that fit into small holes at each end of the blade. A screw or wing nut assembly at either the nose or the handle end of the frame adjusts blade tension.

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Pipe or PVC Cutter This specialty cutter is specifically designed for use in restricted spaces on small diameter, hard and soft copper, aluminum, brass and plastic tubing. Spin tool on pipe and let blade do work.

.

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Power Saws Circular Saw A circular saw cuts straight lines over short or long distances. They are powered by an electric motor and can be fitted with different sizes and types of cutting blades. The advantage of the circular saw is its portability. Circular saws feature a circular blade with saw teeth around the outside edge. The blade base can be adjusted for depth of cut and beveling. They can be used for both ripping (with the grain) and cross cuts (across the grain). Circular saws can also be very dangerous because they are hand held and freely moved by the operator. Safety knowledge and comfort level are factors to consider.

Jig Saw or Scrolling saw Use a jig saw if you are cutting curved lines. Jig saws are equipped with a metal foot that rides along the surface of the material. A small blade moves up and down---like a sewing machine---along the cutting line. While slower than other power saws, the jig saw is more accurate. Its small blade makes this saw ideal for intricate cutting or scroll work. It is important to hold jig saw perpendicular to work or blade will break.

Reciprocating saw The reciprocating saw's motorized blade moves back and forth like a hand saw, only much faster. It is best suited for demolition work, such as cutting through wall studs or removing sections of sub-flooring. The long flat blade works well in tight corners. When fitted with a special blade for metal, the reciprocating saw cuts through plumbing and rusted bolts.

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Miter Saw: A power miter saw, sometimes known as a chop saw or drop saw, is a power tool used to make a quick, accurate crosscut in a workpiece. Most miter saws are relatively small and portable, with common blade sizes ranging from eight to 12 inches. Common uses include framing operations and the cutting of molding. Can cut aluminum with the proper blade (higher density of teeth). The miter saw makes cuts by pulling a spinning circular saw blade down onto a workpiece in a short, controlled motion. The workpiece is typically held against a fence, which provides a precise cutting angle between the blade and the longest workpiece edge. In standard position, this angle is fixed at 90°. A primary distinguishing feature of the miter saw is the miter index that allows the angle of the blade to be changed relative to the fence. While most miter saws enable precise one-degree incremental changes to the miter index, many also provide "stops" that allow the miter index to be quickly set to common angles (such as 15°, 22.5°, 30°, and 45°).

Band Saw A vertical bandsaw is a power tool which uses a blade consisting of a continuous band of metal with teeth along one edge to cut various workpieces. It can cut curves and circles as well as straight cuts. The minimum radius of a curve that can be cut on a particular saw is determined by the width of the band and its kerf. The more narrow the blade the more you can manipulate the wood into tighter curves. A horizontal band saw uses gravity to cut through long stock. Unlike verticals, horizontal band saws hold the piece of material stationary while the blade itself moves in order to perform the cut.

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Scroll Saw Scroll saws excel at sawing tight curves and can make completely enclosed internal cuts--all in a range of materials. It has a single thin vertical blade and can be removed and reinserted in an interior portion of the wood to cut holes and other negative internal spaces.

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SCREWDRIVERS The screwdriver tip fits inside the head of the screw or bolt. The turning force applied by person is transferred to fastener to drive it in or out of another material.

A set of screwdrivers for different sizes and fastener tips.

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Screwdrivers are defined by the type of tip which mates to a family of bolts and screws. Common types of screwdriver tips are slotted (regular), Phillips, Torx, clutch- head, hex, Bristol multi-spline and square-tipped.

A square screw drive uses square fastener heads. They can be turned with a crescent-type wrench, open-end wrench, or 8- or 12-point[3] sockets. Common in the 19th and early 20th centuries it is less common today due to competition from the similar hexagonal screw.

A hex screw drive uses six-sided fastener heads. The fastener is known as a hex head cap screw. It can be turned with an adjustable wrench, combination wrench, and 6- or 12-point sockets. The hex drive is better than square drive for locations where surrounding obstacles limit wrenching access, because smaller wrench-swing arcs can still successfully rotate the fastener.

The slot screw drive has a single slot in the fastener head and is driven by a flat-bladed screwdriver. It was the first type of screw drive to be developed, and for centuries it was the simplest and cheapest to make. The slotted screw is common in simple woodworking applications, but is not often seen in applications where a power tool would be used because a power driver tends to slip out of the head and potentially damage the surrounding material.

The Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled, to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead damaging the driver. This was caused by the relative difficulty in building torque limiting into the early drivers.

A Robertson, also known as a square drive, has a square-shaped socket in the screw head and a square protrusion on the tool. Both the tool and the socket have a taper, which makes inserting the tool easier, and also tends to help keep the screw on the tool tip without the user needing to hold it there.

The hex socket screw drive has a hexagonal recess and may be driven by a hex wrench, also known as an Allen Wrench, Allen key, hex key as well as by a hex screwdriver (also known as a hex driver) or bit.

The Torx screw drive (and sometimes, incorrectly, referred to as star drive), uses a star-shaped recess in the fastener with six rounded points. It was designed to permit increased torque transfer from the driver to the bit compared to other drive systems. Torx is very popular in the automotive and electronics industries because of resistance to cam out and extended bit life, as well as reduced operator fatigue by minimizing the need to bear down on the drive tool to prevent cam out.

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Power drivers have special tips and can be used similar to hand tool to drive fasteners.

An Allen Wrench is also known as a hex key. Allen keys are L-shaped and was created to tightened Allen screws (hexagonal sockets). “T” handle Allen wrenches allow easier grip. Set of Allen Wrench T handle allen wrench Loose allen keys

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TAPS Taps and dies are used to cut threads in metal, plastics or hard rubber. The taps are used for cutting internal threads into a hole for holding a bolt. A die cuts a thread on a preformed cylindrical rod, which creates a threaded piece which functions like a bolt. Taps and dies are made of hardened steel. Taps have a hollow section near the center to permit metal shavings to fall away from the cutting edges. PROCEDURE • Clamp a steel plate and securely in a vise • Drill and ream a hole of desired size. • Select tap and secure in tap wrench. • Apply cutting oil to the tap and the hole. • Turn tap about 1/2 way around the back it up to break the chip. Repeat until hole is threaded.

A tap and die set

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WRENCHES A wrench is a tool specially designed to tighten or loosen nuts, bolts, studs, and pipes. Wrenches are forged from steel alloy to prevent breakage. There are many different types of wrenches. Each type has its own use. By using the proper wrench for the task to be done, you will not break the wrench, damage the equipment, or cause personal injury.

The open-end wrench has different size openings on each end. This type of an arrangement permits a smaller number of wrenches to complete a set. All open-end wrenches have open jaws on one or both ends of the wrench. Most jaw openings are offset from the shank portion of the wrench by 15 degrees. A box wrench surrounds the nut, bolt head, or stud on all sides. It is available with both 6-point and 12-point openings. The 12-point opening is more common, as it may be used on both square and hexagonal bolt heads. Box wrench openings are offset from the shank by 15 degrees. A box wrench should be used whenever possible, as it provides the best protection to both the user and the equipment. The combination wrench combines the best features of the open-end and box wrench into a single wrench. The size opening on the wrench is the same on both ends, but one end has a box head and the other end has an open-end head.

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SOCKET WRENCHES The socket wrench consists of a round metal sleeve with a square opening in one end for insertion of a handle, and a 6-point or 12-point wrench opening in the other. Socket wrenches usually come in sets. In socket sets, the drive end determines the size; for example, a 1/4-inch drive set may contain nine sock- est. ranging in size from 3/16 inch through 1/2 inch.

The adjustable open-end wrench has one fixed jaw and a movable or adjustable jaw. The adjustable jaw is set against the face of the nut by turning a knurled worm gear. Care must be exercised when using an adjustable wrench. Always use the fixed jaw for applying pressure to tighten or loosen nuts or bolts. Adjustable wrenches are used to remove and/or install nuts, bolts, and studs.

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Sanders or Belt Sanders are designed to remove trim or excess wood, strip paint and remove rust. Replaceable sandpaper is fixed to power tool.

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Dremel Tool - A Dremel is a rotary tool made by the Robert Bosch Tool Corporation. Dremel makes about a dozen products who work on a key principle: speed. Unlike most power tools which rely on torque to cut through materials, the Dremel can cut through most metals, plastic, wood and glass without any problem. All corded Dremel rotary tools can reach speeds of 35,000 rpm and are compatible with many accessory bits and attachments (over 150). The applications include cutting, carving, sanding, polishing, grinding and others.

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Drill Press A drill press functions just like an portable drill that is steadily guided into a work piece and may have varying adjustments to cut holes of varying depths and angles. A drill press is a mounted on a stand or bolted to the floor or workbench. A drill press consists of a base, column (or pillar), table, spindle (or quill), and drill head, usually driven by an induction motor. The table can be adjusted vertically and is generally moved by a rack and pinion; however, some older models rely on the operator to lift and reclamp the table in position. A drill press has a number of advantages over a hand-held drill:

Less effort is required to apply the drill to the workpiece. The movement of the chuck and spindle is by a lever working on a rack and pinion, which gives the operator considerable mechanical advantage

The table allows a vise or clamp to be used to position and restrain the work, making the operation much more secure

The angle of the spindle is fixed relative to the table, allowing holes to be drilled accurately and consistently

Drill presses are almost always equipped with more powerful motors compared to hand-held drills and speed changes are achieved by manually moving a belt across a stepped pulley arrangement.

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Heat Gun Heat guns look a lot like hair dryers - but, as many instructions thoughtfully point out, should never be used for drying hair! The method of operation of a hot air gun is similar to a hair dryer: a fan pulls air into the body of the tool and drives it across an electric heating element and out through a nozzle. There are many uses for a heat gun such as stripping paint, bend plastics among others.

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Tapes and Adhesives Electrical tape covers the ends of wires and is used to cover connections between motors and battery. Prevents wire from being exposed to different weather elements and from touching other parts and starting a fire. Electrical tape is not good for holding objects together. Duct tape attaches light weight objects to the robot, or hold wiring out of the way. Duct tape is stronger than masking and scotch tape. Duct tape is for temporary use since it is not permitted at FIRST events. Advantages: • In-expensive and easily to apply – Quick, no mess. • Flexible and reasonably strong Limitations: • Leave a sticky film • Will not stick to wet or oily surfaces • Strong, but not as strong as bolts or welding. Adhesives An adhesive is a material, usually in a liquid or semi-liquid state, that adheres or bonds items together. Super Glue - Cyanoacrylate adhesives cure through reaction with moisture held on the surface to be bonded. They need close fitting joints and usually solidify in seconds. Cyanoacrylates are suited to small plastic parts and to rubber. Epoxies - Epoxy adhesives consist of an epoxy resin plus a hardener. They allow great versatility and can be used to join most materials. Epoxies have good strength, do not produce volatiles during curing, and have low shrinkage. However, epoxies can have low peel strength and flexibility and can be brittle. Epoxy will work on most materials. It requires about 24 hours cure time. Very strong bonding. Locktite - Anaerobic adhesives cure when in contact with metal, and the air is excluded, e.g. when a bolt is home in a thread. Hot Melt Glues are applied in molten form (in the 65-180 °C range) which solidify on cooling to form strong bonds between a wide range of materials. Hot melt glue is used for fast assembly of structures designed to be only lightly loaded. Advantages: • In-expensive costing and relatively easy to use • Strong and sticks to most materials. Limitations: • Very messy and cannot be removed. • Do not stick to wet or oily surfaces • Long curing time.

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Hot Glue Gun Hot glue gun melts glue sticks that act as an adhesive to bond materials.

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Soldering Iron A soldering iron is a hand tool used in soldering. It supplies heat to melt the solder so that it can flow into the joint between two workpieces. A soldering iron is composed of a heated metal tip and an insulated handle. Heating is often achieved electrically, by passing an electric current (supplied through an electrical cord or battery cables) through a resistive heating element. Portable irons can be heated by combustion of gas stored in a small tank, often using a catalytic heater rather than a flame. Simple irons less commonly used than in the past were simply a large copper bit on a handle, heated in a flame. Soldering irons are most often used for installation, repairs, and limited production work in electronics assembly.

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Utility Knives A utility knife is a knife used for general or utility purposes. The utility knife was originally a fixed blade knife with a cutting edge suitable for general work. Today, the term "utility knife" also includes small folding or retractable-blade knives suited for use in the modern workplace or in the construction industry.

Utility knives has a replaceable blade that can be swapped when dull.

Box cutters have a blade that is designed to break off once it gets dull.

Small, fixed, thin blade and specialized handle permit cuts requiring a high degree of precision and control. Often used for reworking PCB’s or in art projects

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Building Materials Wood comes in many standard sizes and can easily be cut into different shapes: 2x4” studs, 4x8 plywood, 1” thick board of different lengths and widths. It is easy to build structures and relatively inexpensive so wood is often used for prototypes since it is easy to mount stuff on it. Wood does catch fire and has poor strength-to-weight ratio (Heavy). It is soft and shrinks as it dries. Plastics come in many different formulations with different properties. Two of the more commonly used plastics are polycarbonate and PTFE (“Teflon”).

Polycarbonate (lexan) is clear, easy to cut, strong, impact resistant. It is commonly used in thin sheets as robot shrouds or for mounting electronics since it is an insulator. Be careful not to confuse polycarbonate with acrylic which is very brittle. Also Loctite will damage polycarb.

Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is often used in applications that require slippery surfaces.

Metals come in many different alloys with different properties. Two of the more commonly used structural metals are aluminum and steel. Aluminum is about 1/3 as strong but 1/3 of the weight. Aluminum is relatively inexpensive and available in many form factors.

FRC Robots are often built with a modular t-slot aluminum erector set

Quick and easy to change, redesign, or add on to existing frame.

Build your fixture fast using simple hand tools.

New components and accessories can be added quickly. BadgerBOTS have used 80/20:

1” extruded bar stock

¼” joining plates in different shapes (L, T, gussets, corners)

¼” bolts with T-nuts/hex nuts

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Section 2 - Safety Guidelines The following section emphasizes the rules for operating tools at BadgerBOTS. The experts define the rules to ensure safety and we must learn them. The key to safety is to practice good work habits every minute of every day so they become engrained and natural. Always Think then Act General Safety Guidelines 0. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool or hand tool. 1. Always wear eye protection. Wear safety glasses, goggles or a face shield. 2. Complete written test, hands-on safety training, and mentor signoff before you use the equipment. 3. Use the power tools only when a safety-trained mentor is supervising. 4. Report all accidents, near accidents or injuries to the mentors immediately. 5. Don’t use tools or equipment that are defective. Tell a mentor if a tool is dull or broken or isn’t working properly. 6. Don’t use any equipment until you have been shown how to use it correctly and safely. Don’t use it unless you understand the instructions. 7. Keep clothes tucked in and sleeves neatly rolled up. Loose clothing can get caught in a machine and cause an injury. 8. If your hair is long, tie it back or wear a cap over it. Long hair can be caught in a moving machine. 9. Remove rings, bracelets, watches and, necklaces before you do any work in the shop. Watches and jewelry should not be worn in the laboratory. 10. Don’t wear gloves when you use the tools or operate any of the equipment. The only time it’s OK to wear gloves is when you’re handling rough lumber. 11. Wear protective shoes. Wear hard shoes or boots with rubber soles and rubber heels. Don’t wear sandals in the laboratory. 12. Wear approved ear protection around loud, noisy equipment. 13. Wear a dust mask or an air filter when working around a lot of wood dust. Wood dust can be harmful if inhaled. 14. Use finishing materials, thinners or other oily or flammable liquids only in well-ventilated areas. 15. Clean up spills. Don’t leave anything on the floor that someone could slip on. 16. Keep used rags in an approved, covered metal container. Damp, oily rags can ignite through spontaneous combustion. The heat produced by oxidation is enough to start a fire. 17. Know where the exits and fire extinguishers are located. Know how to use fire extinguisher before there is an emergency. “PASS - Pull Aim Squeeze Sweep” 18. Keep cabinet doors and drawers closed. 19. Keep floors clear and free of litter, scraps, and materials. Don’t leave anything on the floor that could be tripped over or slipped on. 20. Vises should be kept 90% closed when they’re not in use. 21. Keep workbenches clear and organized. Don’t pile up tools and don’t lay tools down so they hang over the edge of the bench. 22. Always use a brush or a rag to clear away metal chips, sawdust, and scraps. Don’t use your hands to wipe off a surface.

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23. Use the right tool for the job. Use the tool only for what they’re designed to do. Use the right size tool. 24. Carry pointed or sharp tools with the point or edge held down toward the floor. This will help avoid injuries if you bump into something or if someone bumps into you. 25. When you hold a tool, hold it by the handle. When you hand someone a tool, hold it so they can take it by the handle. 26. When you’re finished with a tool return it to its proper storage area. Return it to the tool room, tool rack or cabinet where it belongs. 27. If you’re handling large or heavy materials, get someone to help you. Also, ask someone to help or ‘tail-off’ for you when you cut a large piece of material on a machine. 28. Lift with your legs, not with your back. Lifting improperly or carelessly can cause severe back injuries. 29. Be sure your hands are dry and that you’re standing on a dry floor when you use electrical devices. 30. Check the condition of the power cord. Don’t use the equipment if the insulation on the cord is damaged, cut or frayed. Tell the instructor. 31. When you disconnect a power cord, pull the plug; don’t yank on the cord. Hold the plug and pull it out of the outlet. 32. Use all the recommended guards and safety devices on the power equipment. Never remove a guard. 33. Disconnect the power equipment any time you need to make major changes or adjustments. Unplug the tool or machine or disconnect it at the circuit breaker panel. If you disconnect the circuit breaker, put up a sign: “Don’t Connect.” 34. Turn off the machine any time you make minor changes or adjustments. Never adjust equipment while it’s running. Wait for it to come to a complete stop before you make the adjustment. 35. Do not leave a running machine. Any time you leave a machine, turn it off and stay with it until it comes to a complete stop. 36. When you approach a machine to use it, make sure the person who used it before you turned it off. Make sure it’s completely stopped. 37. Respect the safety zones. Stay away from anyone operating the power equipment. Don’t talk to them or distract them in any way. Don’t let anyone distract you when you’re using the equipment. 38. Concentrate on what you’re doing; give it your full attention. If you don’t feel well or if there’s some reason you can’t concentrate, tell a mentor. 39. Work at a safe speed. Don’t rush or hurry through a project. Working too fast is dangerous and it will result in poor craftsmanship. 40. Don’t fool around in the shop! There are no exceptions to this: Don’t ever play around in the shop. 41. Inspect your equipment cords and extension cords routinely to ensure they are in good condition. DO NOT overload electrical fixtures and/or receptacles. Avoid plugging a power strip into another power strip. Avoid plugging an extension cord into another extension cord. Avoid using extension cord for permanent power. 42. Keep chemical containers in good condition. Make sure all chemical containers have labels placed by the manufacturer. Ensure all labels are legible. Read Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for the chemicals before using. These sheets provide information on the correct handling of a spill or injury. Hand Tool Safety Guidelines

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1. Wear eye protection. Always wear safety glasses, goggles, or a face shield when you work with hand tools or power tools. 2. Always use the right type of tool for the job. Use the tool designed for the work you want to do. 3. Use the right size tool. Don’t try to do heavy work with a small, light tool; don’t try to do fine work with large, heavy-duty tools. Use the tool that suits the work. 4. Before you use a tool, check it to be sure it’s clean and in good condition. 5. Never use your hands or fingers to test whether or not a tool is sharp. If the tool is as sharp as it should be, you’ll cut yourself. 6. Be sure the tool handle is fitted tightly and securely. 7. Don’t use a dull, broken or defective tool. Report defective or damaged equipment to a mentor. 8. Always carry tools by the handle. 9. When you carry a tool, hold it so the point or sharp edge is aimed down toward the floor. 10. Avoid holding the work with one hand while you use the tool with the other hand. Fasten the work down so you’ll have both hands to use the tools. 11. Plan the work so you can keep your balance. Always keep your weight on both feet, and don’t over-reach. 12. Don’t lay tools down near the edge of the bench. Don’t lay tools down where they could roll off, where someone could bump into them or where someone could trip over them. 13. Never aim a cutting tool toward your hands, arms or body. Aim the tool away from you and away from others, whether you are working with it or just holding it. 14. Always keep your hands and arms out of the path of a cutting tool. Keep hands and arms behind t the cutting edge. 15. When you are finished with a tool, return it to its assigned storage area. Don’t leave tools lying around. 16. Use the tools only if you understand how to use them correctly and safely. If you’re not sure, check with the instructor. Knife (Box cutter, utility knife) Safety Guidelines 1. Always wear eye protection before using a knife. 2. You will use a Knife in many activities or projects. There are different kinds of knives, but most have a removable blade that can be replaced when it becomes dull. All knives used in the BEC must have a cap that fits over the blade when the knife is not in use or can be retracted for storage. 3. These knives are very sharp and can be dangerous if used incorrectly. Accidents or injuries can be easily avoided if you follow some commonsense SAFETY rules when using these knives: 4. Do not use a knife with a dull blade. 5. Use a knife for cutting only; never use a knife to hammer, pry open, or unscrew. 6. Always use a cutting board or special cutting surface under the material you are cutting. Make sure the material being cut is lying flat on the cutting surface. 7. When cutting, always pull the knife away from your body. Never pull a knife toward your body. 8. Never throw a knife or blade. 9. Keep the blade covered with the protective cap or retract blade inside knife body, and return to its proper storage place when the knife is not in use. 10. Blades should be disposed in the sharps disposal container. Drill Press Guidelines

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Materials: wood, plastic, aluminum, steel (with proper bits) 1. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool. 2. Always align drill bit over a hole in the metal drill press table. 3. Use a clamp or vise to secure/fasten your material to the table. 4. Make sure that your object, and any clamp you are using are the ONLY objects on the table. Other objects can get caught in the machine and cause injuries. 5. Use a “V-block” to clamp round, or irregular shaped stock. 6. Select the right size and type of bit. Wood bits for wood, metal bits for metal. 7. Use a center punch for a guide whenever possible. Always use a center punch when drilling into metal or hard woods. 8. Do not panic if the drill bit gets stuck in the object. Turn the machine off. When it has completely stopped, remove the bit from the object. Drill will grab as it begins to punch through object at end of hole. 9. Select the correct drilling speed. For metal or hard woods and large drill bits you should use a slower speed. 10. Always remove the chips from the table after the machine is turned off and is no longer moving. 11. Use a table brush, never your hands. 12. As with any machine, if it is not working properly you should always turn it off, unplug it, and tell a teacher. 13. Drills become hot after use. 14. Apply cutting oil to reduce friction Portable Drill Guidelines Materials: wood, plastic, aluminum, steel (with proper bits) 1. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool. 2. Select the correct drill bit just like you would for the drill press. 3. Ensure object will not move around while drilling. Check area under object to ensure drill doesn’t punch through and cause damage. 4. Make sure that the switch is OFF, the chuck key is removed, and that your work area is clean. 5. Drill with a straight, even, and steady pressure at proper angle. 6. When drilling deep holes, withdraw the drill bit several times to clear the area, this helps to provide a SAFE and even drilling process. 7. As with any machine DO NOT PANIC if something “goes wrong.” Turn it OFF, unplug it, and tell a mentor. 8. Drill may get stuck as it punches through object. Withdraw bit and bring drill back up to speed to finish hole. 9. Use a center punch for a guide whenever possible. Always use a center punch when drilling into metal or hard woods. Power Miter Saw Guidelines Materials: wood, plastic (check with mentor), aluminum 1. Proper ear protection and eye protection / face shield must be worn along with ear protection. 2. Disconnect power before changing blades. Only mentors should change blades. 3. Always clamp the work so it is firmly held against the fence and bottom of table. Use C clamp on one side only. Other side should be free. 4. Ensure material is long enough to be properly clamped or do not attempt cut

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5. Allow the motor to reach full speed before starting a cut. 6. Keep fingers outside of blade guards at all times. Keep one hand on trigger and other hand behind your back 7. Remove scrap stock from table when making multiple cuts. Make sure to use scrap to do this and not your fingers. 8. Release trigger as soon as blade bottoms. Brake will stop the blade. Keep blade held down until it complete stops. Band Saw Guidelines Materials: wood, plastic, aluminum. No steel. 1. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool. 2. Adjust the blade guard to where it is 1/4” above the highest part of the material to be cut. 3. Use a push stick whenever possible and always when cutting smaller objects. 4. ONLY one person can use the machine at a time. 5. Never force your material into the blade. Let the machine do the work. 6. If it is not working properly turn it off and tell mentor immediately. 7. Cut sharp curves on the scroll saw instead of band saw. Band saw is for straight cuts whenever possible and slight curves are possible on bandsaw. 8. Avoid backing out of a cut. If there is no way to avoid it then you need to turn the machine off, wait until the blade has completely stopped, and then carefully back out. 9. Your fingers should be on either side of the blade, but never in front of the blade. 10. Blades do occasionally break. If the blade breaks while you are operating it simply turn it off, and contact mentor. Never leave the machine, or try to open the casing and fix it yourself. 11. Make sure that the dust collector is on and that the vent is open. 12. Round stock must be cut using the V-Block to secure it. Also, never reach around the blade to remove your work. 13. Use scrap wood to push or move scrap wood away from the blade. 14. Never leave the machine until it has come to a complete stop, then clean the table off by using a table broom, never your hands. 15. Avoid pinching blade by pressing material together when making a long cut 16. If the machine jams, turn off power immediately. Portable Circular Power Saw Safety Guidelines Materials: wood, plastic 1. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool. 2. Unplug the tool before making any adjustments, cleaning, changing blades on the saw. 3. Use the proper blade for the type of cut to be made. 4. Before using any power tool, inspect it to make sure the cord is not damaged in any way, that the ground pin is intact, and that the blade is sharp and undamaged. 5. Do not use the saw in a wet area. 6. Do not run the extension cord across walkways where people might trip over it or where the cord may be run over and damaged. Make sure the cord is clear of the cutting path. 7. When it is necessary to raise the guard for certain types of cuts, use the guard lever. 9. Never wedge, wire, or otherwise jam the guard to prevent it from working. This is a particularly dangerous practice and will cause your permission to work in the machine shop to be revoked immediately!!! 10. Wait until the saw stops before lifting it from a cut. 11. Before setting the saw down, make sure the guard is closed, as the blade may still be turning.

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12. Don't carry the saw with your fingers on the switch trigger. 13. Don't pull the saw backwards in a cut if you can avoid it. 14. Do not use the cord to move or drag the saw. 15. Do not use the power hand saw for cuts if you cannot keep a firm and secure grip on the saw and the material being cut. A hand saw is still the best for some kinds of work and often faster. 16. Before cutting small workpieces will require special set up. 17. Adjust the depth of cut 1/8” greater than the material thickness. Portable Jig Saw Safety Guidelines Materials: wood, plastic, aluminum, steel 1. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool. 2. Unplug the tool before making any adjustments, cleaning, changing blades on the saw. 3. Use the proper blade for the type of cut to be made. 4. Before using any power tool, inspect it to make sure the cord is not damaged in any way, that the ground pin is intact, and that the blade is sharp and undamaged. 5. Do not use the saw in a wet area. 6. Do not run the extension cord across walkways where people might trip over it or where the cord may be run over and damaged. Make sure the cord is clear of the cutting path. 7. When it is necessary to raise the guard for certain types of cuts, use the guard lever. 8. Wait until the saw stops before lifting it from a cut. 9. Don't carry the saw with your fingers on the switch trigger. 10. Do not use the cord to move or drag the saw. 11. Do not use the power hand saw for cuts if you cannot keep a firm and secure grip on the saw and the material being cut. A hand saw is still the best for some kinds of work and often faster. 12. Before cutting small workpieces will require special set up. Portable Disc or Belt Sander Safety Guidelines Materials: wood, plastic, aluminum, steel 1. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool. 2. On the disc sander always use the downward motion side of the disc to sand. Never the upward motion side as this can throw your part upwards with tremendous force. 3. Always attempt to place your work against the rest on the disc and belt sanders. 4. On a stationary horizontal belt sander, always sand, so that the belt motion is away from you. 5. Do not operate machines with torn or ripped belts or disks. 6. Do not sand any material that will give off a dangerous dust. 7. Sand in a well-ventilated areas away from other machines, only on the patio with the doors to the shop closed. 8. Use a vacuum or a dust collector to collect dust while sanding to prevent the dispersal over a large area. 9. A dust mask may be worn if desired. They are stored in the safety cabinet. Bench Grinder Guidelines Materials: steel. Aluminum and plastic should be filed and/or sanded. 1. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool. 2. Set the tool rest and spark deflector so that they are 1/16” to 1/8” away from the wheel. 3. Hold work firmly and securely with both hands. Remember that small pieces require special setups.

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4. Never stand directly in front of the grinding wheel. Stand to the side when you start this machine. A defective abrasive wheel can crack and fly apart causing serious injury. 5. Grind using only the face of the wheel, never use the sides. 6. Press material against the wheel with just enough pressure that you cause a steady, even removal of metal. This will happen with practice, do not become discouraged on your first try. 7. Again, move stock slowly and evenly across the face of the wheel, not the sides. 8. Never leave the machine until the grinding wheels have come to a complete stop, even if someone will be using it right after you do. 9. Object will heat up during grinding. Be careful. Allow hot parts to cool before continuing. 10. Keep hands away from grinding wheels. 11. Never use cracked or damaged grinding wheels. (At the high speeds that grinders turn, rotational forces can cause faulty wheels to fly apart, throwing sharp fragments in many directions at high velocity.) Scroll Saw Guidelines Materials: wood, plastic, aluminum 1. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool. 2. Reciprocating blade is designed to cut curves in thin material only. 3. Adjust speed of reciprocating blade given material type, thickness, and feed rate before starting to cut. 4. Make sure that you are lightly holding the material flat against the table, to keep it from bouncing around and possibly jamming. 5. Check to make sure that the teeth of the blade are pointing down, and that the guide assembly is properly installed. 6. Use both hands to guide the material through the cut. However, they should remain to the side of the blade, never in direct line with the blade. 7. The scroll saw can hurt you as badly as the band saw. The smaller blade will not save your hand or fingers. 8. Never use your hand to clear the table. Always use a brush. 9. Scroll saw blades break very easily, so take your time to make the right cuts. Remember never force the material and use the correct speed. 10. “Hard” materials, and tight curves should be cut using the slower speed. 11. If the blade breaks turn the machine off, unplug it, and tell the teacher immediately. Never try to fix it yourself. Soldering Notes Soldering can be dangerous because of the heat from the iron and the chemical fumes and vapors released from the solder and flux, respectively. When soldering, observe the following points: Use lead-free solder and solder with electrically heated soldering iron/gun only. Proper eye protection must be worn Prevent burns: Wear cotton clothing that covers your arms and legs. No torches or open flames of any kind are allowed in the facility. Replace tip when solder is sticking to tip. Tin (coat) tip with solder before storing. 1. Solder in well-ventilated areas. 2. Work on a fire resistant surface.

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3. Never touch the soldering iron/gun. It heats to extreme temperatures that will cause severe burns. 4 Avoid serious burns by treating all soldering equipment as though it was hot. 5. Keep your soldering iron in its protective holder when not actually being used. Never lay it on the bench. 6. Solder over the bench top to prevent hot solder from dropping on the operator’s legs. 7. Always wash your hands with soap and water after handling solder. Compressed Air Guidelines Per OSHA guidelines, the following rules will be followed when using compressed air for cleaning. 1. Proper eye protection must be worn before operating any power tool. 2. Compressed air must not be used to clean your clothing or yourself. 3. Compressed air will not be directed at other people. Air injection (bubble in blood stream) can be deadly. 4. Compressed air used for cleaning work areas, such as work benches, saws and drill pressed shall not exceed 30 pounds per square inch at outlet. 5. Wear appropriate eye protection and guard against spraying chips and other objects into other people. Robot safety Guidelines 1. Wear eye protection at all times. 2. Respect risks associated with electricity, tools, pneumatics, and moving parts like gears, sprockets, chains, belts. Keep fingers, hands, and clothing away from moving parts in robot. 3. Use legs to lift heavy objects. Use a 35lb lifting limit for an individual. Otherwise get help. To safely move robot, consider following issues first: • Are all parts of the robot secured? • Is the robot powered off? • Have a pre-lift briefing to determine direction and path. • Ensure that the areas and paths are clear of debris and hazards. • Are there enough people to perform the lift safely? Two to four people are preferred. • Lift with the legs, keeping your back straight. Do not twist your body. Use your feet if you need to turn. Use proper hand holds to grasp the robot and make sure you have a safe,secure lift point before starting the lift. Promote good design practices with adequate safety margin. 1. Use fusing and put emergency-stop switch in easily accessible area. 2. Do not leave the robot or any drive motor energized and unattended. 3. If you leave the battery shorted - it may rupture or even explode. Unplug battery in robot after use. 4. Do not exceed voltage rating to power the motors. You may get an electric shock. High voltages may also cause parts to overheat and create a fire. (12V/120Amp circuit breaker) 5. When current flows through motors or other electrical components, they may get very hot. Do not touch. During assembly, be careful with long heavy parts that can create pinch points. 1. Shut the Power OFF before working on electrical circuits or exchanging components. 2. Open the Main Circuit Breaker with the RESET button and/or unplug the battery. 3. Remember to always verify the correct polarity when connecting devices.

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4. Following electrical service work always inspect, test as necessary, and clear potential short circuits before applying power. 5. Protect electrical circuits and wiring from accidental contact by persons and from contact with metallic foreign objects. Cover these areas with clear acrylic plastic panels where necessary. 6. Respect stored pneumatic energy. Do not aim or direct high-pressure air at coworkers as a joke. Serious injury could be an unintentional result. 7. Before servicing pneumatic components, confirm that the Main Vent valve is fully open. 8. Inspect all pressure gauges to verify that NO pressure is present. 9. Relieve all stored energy, open the main circuit breaker on the robot, disconnect battery at end of session. For additional information, Read FIRST safety manual.

Battery Safety Notes

CAUTION: Batteries contain acid. This substance, H2SO4, is a corrosive, colorless liquid that will burn your eyes, skin, and clothing. The team mentor and safety captain should post the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) and train all team members about battery safety. You can find Emergency handling and first aid on the MSDS, proper protection for handling cracked or damaged batteries, and information on disposal of the battery. Damaged Battery Warning: Any battery that is visibly damaged in any way is dangerous and unusable, and should be set aside and handled accordingly because it contains stored electrical energy that could cause the battery to rapidly heat up due to an internal electrical short circuit, and possibly explode. Also the 12V batteries FIRST provided in your Kit contain sulfuric acid that will burn human tissue on contact.

Immediately flush any contacted skin with a large quantity of water

Seek medical treatment Periodically inspect your batteries for any signs of damage or leaking electrolyte. Remember that a dropped battery may be cracked, but the crack may not be visible and might eventually leak electrolyte.

Don't take a chance. Don’t use it.

Treat it as a hazardous material and process it in accordance with the battery' MSDS. Necessary Safety Materials FIRST recommends that teams keep the following items readily available whenever working with batteries:

A box of bicarbonate of soda to neutralize any exposed acid electrolyte.

A pair of acid-resistant rubber or plastic leak-proof gloves to wear when handling a leaking battery.

A suitable non-metallic leak-proof container in which to place the defective battery. Procedure for Handling a Leaking Battery

Neutralize it by pouring the bicarbonate of soda on all wetted surfaces. The bicarbonate of soda itself is not dangerous, and will react with the acid in the electrolyte leaving a safe residue that can be disposed of in a conventional manner such as rinsing with water.

Put on the gloves before handling the battery.

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Place the battery in the leak-proof container for removal.

Be sure to neutralize any acid on the gloves before removing and storing them.

Follow emergency handling instructions of the MSDS, and notify mentor.

Seek medical attention.

Properly dispose of the battery, which is now a hazardous material. Battery Disposal FYI - Alkaline batteries can be safely disposed of with normal solid waste. Must Recycle

Lead: It is illegal to landfill lead acid batteries or dispose of them in an incinerator. Lead is toxic and these batteries can be recycled effectively.

Button batteries: May contain small amounts of mercury. The batteries should be recycled.

Rechargeable batteries should be recycled due to chemicals used. o Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) o Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) o Lithium Ion (Li-ion) o Small Sealed Lead battery

Charging and Handling

When a battery is neither connected to the robot nor the battery charger, use the battery protector safety plugs FIRST provides in the Kit of Parts.

Keep the battery charging area clean and orderly.

Place your battery charger in an area where cooling air can freely circulate around the charger. Battery chargers can fail without proper ventilation.

Do not short out the battery terminals. If metal tools/parts contact the terminals simultaneously, it will create a direct short circuit. This may cause high heat to developing the battery terminal/part/tool area and the battery could explode.

If a quick disconnect is not available and you must use tools to disconnect the battery, make sure metal tools don’t contact both terminals at the same time.

Do not charge batteries in unattended facility. Ongoing Battery Inspection

Periodically inspect your battery for any evidence of damage, such as a cracked case or leaking electrolyte.

Bent terminals can also be a potential leak source.

After each competition round, inspect the battery.

Check your battery prior to competing in each round.

Secure battery in robot to prevent damage if it comes loose.

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General Safety Part I Written Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Use the correct heading and write the answer on your own paper. Using the BEST answer to

complete the following:

1. Always wear eye ( Protection Drops).

2. Use the equipment only when the ( Friend Mentor) is in the facility.

3. ( Ignore Report) all accidents or injuries.

4. Do not use ( Defective Clean) equipment.

5. Never use equipment until you have been properly ( Instructed Protected) in its use.

6. Loose clothing can cause ( Protection Injuries).

7. Long hair must be ( Tied back Braided) or covered with a cap.

8. No ( Jewelry Aprons) should be worn in the laboratory.

9. Wear ( Sandals Closed toed) shoes or boots.

10. Approved protection earmuffs should be worn around ( Dirty Noisy) equipment.

11. ( Dust mask Safety glasses) must be worn when working with hand tools or power tools.

12. Paints and glues should only be used in well ( Ventilated Drafty) areas.

13. Always ( Ignore Clean up) spilled materials.

14. Used rags are to be kept in a covered ( Metal container Paper bag).

15. In case of fire, know location of ( Exits and fire extinguishers Air hoses).

16. Keep cabinet doors and drawers ( Open Closed).

17. Never leave anything on the ( Floor Wall) that could be slipped on or tripped over.

18. Keep vise ( Open Close) when they are not in use.

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

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General Safety Part II Written Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Use the BEST answer to complete the following:

21. Workbenches should be kept ( Clear Cluttered) at end of each meeting.

22. Use ( Your hands A brush) or a rag to clear away metal scraps and sawdust.

23. Tools should be used only for what they are ( Designed to do Easiest to use).

24. ( Dull Sharp) tools should be carried with the edge or point held down toward the floor.

25. A tool should always be held by the ( Cord Handle).

26. When you finish using a tool, put it ( Back to assigned storage area On workbench).

27. Ask for ( Permission Help) when you need to handle large or heavy material.

28. Lift with your ( Neck Legs) not with your back.

29. Never handle ( Electrical tools Writing tool) if your hands are wet or you are standing on

a wet floor.

30. Don’t yank on the power cord to disconnect a tool. Pull the ( Plug Socket).

31. Use all the recommended ( Guards Obstructions) and other safety devices when you

operate power equipment.

32. Always disconnect power equipment before you make any ( Mistakes Adjustments).

33. Never adjust equipment while it is ( Stopped Running).

34. When you turn off a machine, stay with it until it is ( Almost Completely) stopped.

35. Before you use a machine, make sure the person who used it before you has turned it off

and it is completely ( Stopped Clean).

36. Don’t ( Distract Leave alone) anyone while they are operating the equipment.

37. Always work at a ( Fast Safe) speed.

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 52

Band Saw Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Use the BEST answer to complete the following:

1. Adjust the blade guard to where it is 1/4” above the ( Lowest Highest) part of the material

that you are cutting.

2. You ( Should Should not) use a push stick when cutting out small objects.

3. ONLY ( One Three) people can use this machine at a time.

4. You can SAFELY cut ( Slight Tight) curves on the band saw.

5. You fingers should stay ( In front To either side) of the blade as you cut.

6. When cutting round or irregular shaped stock you should use the ( C-block V-block) to

secure it.

7. You should use ( Hand Table broom) to clean the top of the table off when you are

finished.

8. You should use your ( Hand Scrap wood) to push material away from the blade.

9. It ( Is Is not) SAFE to force wood/metal into the blade.

10. Blades do occasionally break on this machine, if it does break you should:

_____________________________________________________________

List two (2) SAFETY procedures you should do before you operate this machine:

11. _____________________________________________________________

12. _____________________________________________________________

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 53

Battery Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Use the BEST answer to complete the following:

1. You ( Should Should not) throw used FIRST 12V battery in garbage.

2. Batteries that leak should be ( immediately reported to mentor for careful handling Should

be repaired using duct tape).

3. Batteries contain Acid Water.

3. List proper steps for handling a leaking battery

__________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________

4. Which types of batteries to recycle rather than placing in normal garbage

Standard Alkaline used in flashlights ( True False)

Rechargeable batteries used in computers, cameras, phones ( True False)

Lead batteries used to run robot ( True False)

5. Extra batteries should be stored using a battery protector safety plugs in refrigerator.

6. The battery charging area must be clean and orderly with air circulating packed tightly to

save space.

7. Battery terminals are shorted if metal tools/parts contact the terminals simultaneously if

battery terminal is not very tall.

8. A short between battery terminals generate high heat and the battery could explode

improves robot performance since electrons don’t travel very far.

9. Inspect your battery regularly yearly for any evidence of damage, such as a cracked case

or leaking electrolyte.

10. Charge batteries overnight in empty building to save time during team meetings to

monitor.

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 54

Drill Press Written Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Use the BEST answer to complete the following:

1. You ( Should Should not) use a clamp or vise when using this machine.

2/3. Objects other than your wood and clamps ( Should Should not) be removed from the

table top, because they can ______________________________________

4. Use a ( C-Block V-Block) to clamp down round or irregular stock.

5. The type of bit you select for drilling ( Is Is not) important.

6. You ( Should Should not) use a center punch when drilling into metal or hard woods.

7. You should use a ( Faster Slower) drill speed when drilling into metals, hard wood, and

with larger drill bits.

8. ( Do Do not) panic if the bit gets stuck in the wood, you should:

_____________________________________________.

9. You should remove chips from the table with your ( Hand Table broom).

10. As with any machine, if it is NOT working properly you should:

____________________________________________________________________________

List Two (2) safety procedures you should do before you operate this machine:

11. ___________________________________________

12. ___________________________________________

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 55

Grinder Written Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Use the BEST answer to complete the following:

1. With this machine you must wear ( proper eye protection clean shirt. )

2. Hold work firmly and securely with ( One Both) hand(s).

3. Remember that small pieces ( Will Will not) require special set-ups.

4. You should stand ( Directly in front of To the side) when you start this machine.

5. Grind using the ( Face Sides) of the wheel.

6. Press material against the wheel with ( A lot of Just enough) pressure so that you cause a

steady and even removal of metal.

7. Again, move stock slowly and evenly across the ( Face Sides) of the wheel.

8. You can leave the machine when the grinding wheels have come to a ( Half Full) stop.

9. Check the grinder wheel for cracks because faulty wheels can ( fly apart start on fire.)

List two (2) SAFETY procedures you should do before you operate this or any machine:

10. __________________________________________________

11. ___________________________________________________

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 56

Hand Tool Safety Written Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Using the BEST answer to complete the following:

1. Always wear ( Eye protection Loose clothing) in the shop.

2. Use only the type of tools that are ( Defective Designed) for the work you are doing.

3. Always use the ( Right size Small) tool for the job.

4. Check tools to be sure they are sharp, ( Clean Large) and in good condition before you

use them.

5. Don’t use ( Your finger Piece of paper) to test whether or not a tool is sharp.

6. Be sure the tool handle is fitted ( Loosely Tightly) and securely.

7. Don’t use a tool that is dull, broken or ( Defective Working).

8. Tools should always be carried by the ( Blade Handle).

9. Carry sharp tools so the edge or the point is aimed down towards the ( Floor Ceiling).

10. The material should be fastened down so that ( Both No) hands are left free to use the

tools.

11. Never lay tools down near the ( Edge Center) of the bench where they could roll off, or

where someone could bump into them.

12. ( Never Always) aim a cutting tool toward yourself or toward anyone else.

13. Keep your hands and arms ( Near Away from) the cutting edge of the tool.

14. Tools that are not in use should be returned to the ( Assigned storage area Where you

found them).

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 57

Knife Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Using the BEST answer to complete the following

questions:

1. Always use a knife with a sharp dull blade.

2. Use a knife for cutting chopping.

3. Check surface above below the material you are cutting.

4. Make sure the material being cut is held tightly in your hand is lying flat on the cutting

surface.

4. When cutting, always pull the knife away towards from your body.

6. Store blade in its protective cap extended for quick use.

List PPE before you operate knife:

_____________________________________________________________

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 58

Portable Drill Written Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Using the BEST answer to complete the following:

1. You ( Should Should not) check area under object before drilling.

2. You ( Should Should not) drill with straight, steady, even pressure.

3. To provide for a SAFE and even drilling process, you need to clear the hole as you drill. To

do this you need to ___________________________________.

4. As with any machine, if it is NOT working properly you should:

___________________________________________________________________________

List two (2) SAFETY procedures you should do before you operate this machine:

7. _____________________________________________________________

8. _____________________________________________________________

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 59

Power Miter Saw Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Use the BEST answer to complete the following:

Use the correct heading and write the answer on your own paper. Using the BEST answer to

complete the following:

1. Always clamp the work firmly ( Away from Against) the fence and table.

2. The machine ( Should Should not) be stopped by pushing a piece of scrap against the

side of the blade.

3. The guard sections can easily be checked for proper operation ( Before After) using the

machine.

4. Fingers should be kept ( Inside Outside) of the blade guards at all times.

If the machine is not working properly you should:

5. _______________________________________________________

List three (3) SAFETY procedures you should do before you operate this machine:

6. _____________________________________________________________

7. _____________________________________________________________

8. _____________________________________________________________

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 60

Robot engineering Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Mark correct answer for each statement.

1. Deactivate and turn power off before troubleshooting robot. True False

2. If moving parts like gears, sprockets, chains, belts are stuck, use finger to clear jam .

True False

3. Keep jewelry, hair, clothing away from moving parts in robot. True False

4. A reasonable weight limit for one person lift is 35lb True False

5. Hide emergency-stop switch so it is not triggered accidentally. True False

6. If you leave the battery shorted - it may rupture or even explode. True False

7. Motors or other electrical components may get very hot. True False

8. Shut the Power OFF before working on electrical circuits or exchanging components.

True False

9. Following electrical service work always inspect, test as necessary, and clear potential short

circuits before applying power. True False

10. Do not aim or direct high-pressure air at coworkers as a joke. True False

11. List 2 items to consider to safely move robot:

_____________________________________

_____________________________________

12. At end of robot session, list two items to return robot to completely safe state

_____________________________________

_____________________________________

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 61

Scroll Saw Written Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Using the BEST answer to complete the following:

1. The scroll saw can be SAFELY used to cut ( Slight Tight) curves.

2. Make any adjustments to reciprocating blade speed ( after before cutting material.

3. Use ( Both One) hand(s) to guide the wood through the blade.

4. You should wait ( Patiently Impatiently) for your turn to use the machine.

5. Picking the correct speed for cutting a design ( Is Is not) necessary.

6. You ( Should Should not) force material into the blade.

7. If you are unsure of how to cut a design you ( Try it anyway Get assistance).

8 Blades do occasionally break on this machine, if it does break you should:

____________________________________________________

List two (2) SAFETY procedures you should do before you operate this machine:

11. _____________________________________________________________

12. _____________________________________________________________

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________

BBRC Tool Training Revision 1

Date: July 1 2012

Page 62

Soldering Test

Name: ________________________________________ Date: ______________________

Write the answer on your own paper. Use the BEST answer to complete the following:

1. Eye protection ( Should Should not) be worn at all times in the shop area.

2. ( Only the tip All of metal) of the soldering equipment is hot when it is on.

3. The soldering equipment should be ( In its holder Laid on the bench) after use.

4. ( It feels cool to Do not) let any of the melted solder touch your skin.

5. Solder fumes are dangerous so always solder in ( an open, well-ventilated area a closed

area with little air exchange).

6. Wash hands ( after soldering, at least once a day.)

Graded by ___________________________ on Date: ___________ Score _____________